■ 


' 'V  ' 


:;v> 


D y'fsion,  .D.S.413 

Section.* 


Ne,„. 


/ 


* . f V . ..  •>-' 


•> 


. I '■  ■ ' - 


;f‘ 


■ ; r 


.■;t.V  'v 

■ ‘'V  ^ ■ 


. 'a 
- ■■■>  .»  ' 


P. 


J'' 


■'  f- 


, ' •'-  .V-'  j,- 

■'*’  r', 

'V  ' \K 

■ ■ H . . / • ,.\-\ 


. > 


V 


A. 

s'*.'..- 


t':/ 


•■•%:■ 


* >'» ' ' 
• f‘ ' 

V' 


■:A 


'■'  \ '•'  \ ■<’v‘^'i,  ■ • ' ■ ’■  ■ 

h • r 4.  •*.  ,»  ^1  ' » 

V »••.* ' ' '■■  r ' . a.;  ■ .•>■ 


■')V 

, * i>* 


■■*.  ' ' t . 


- 


Ei'^'  - • z:*-. 


v;-.''  V 


f 


lA’^. 


V'  ■ 


' ■-^^^ 
■<-  ■ . ^ • I 


THE 


Moghdl,  Mongol,  Mikado 

AND 

Missionary. 


Essays,  Discussions,  Art  Criticisms,  Political 
Institutions,  History,  Religions,  Rail- 
way Systems,  Fortifications  and 
Defences  of  India,  Afghanis- 
tan, China  and  Japan, 


BY 


SAMUEL  A.  MUTCHMORE,  D.D, 


VOLUME  I, 


PHILADELPHIA : 

Pbesbttsrian  Publishing  Company, 
1510  Chestnut  Stbbet. 

1891. 


Copyright  1891 

By  PreibyUriaii  Publiihinf  Co. 


CONTENTS 


VOLUME  1. 


PAGE 

Chapter  I. — India ^ Past  and  Present 3 

Journey  from  Cairo  to  Suez;  Moses’  Well,  Mount 
Sinai  and  the  Red  Sea ; Aden;  The  Empire  of  India 
and  Its  Various  Invasions;  English  Conquests; 

Hostile  Factions;  Christianity  Introduced  by  the 
Apostle  Thomas;  Portuguese  Christianity;  First 
Missionaries  from  Denmark;  Schwartz;  American 
Missionaries  Expelled;  Rooting  of  Missionary 


Work ; Beginning  of  Zenana  Missions,  Suttee 
Abolished;  Dr.  Duff’s  System  of  Education;  Mis- 
sionary Statistics 3-^5 

Chapter  II. — English  Acquisition  of  Bombay 16 

Bombay  City  and  Harbor ; Native  Religious  Re- 
formers; The  Brahmo  Somaj 16-19 

Chapter  III. — Beauties  and  Fascinations  of  Bombay  21 

Garapuri ; Palm  Wine  ; Rock  Temples  of  Ele- 


phanta;  Other  Rock-hewn  Temples;  Malabar 
Hill  and  the  Towers  of  Silence  ; Cremation  ; Col- 
lege of  the  Free  Church  of  Scotland ; Walkesh- 


war  Temple  ;’  The  Parsees  ; Dark- winged  Sextons  21-37 

Chapter  IV. — Mission  Work  and  Progress  in  Bom- 

bay 38 

American  Board  at  Byculla ; Floral  Shackles ; Dr. 
Livingstone’s  African  Followers ; A Dinner  with 
Brahmins;  A Visit  to  a Zenana;  Hindu  Widows; 

Child  Marriages  ; The  Mother-in-law 38-54 


ii 


PAGE 


Chapter  V. — Scenes,  Incidents  and  Facts  About  Bom- 

55 

CoUba;  University  Hall ; Street  Scenes;  Native 
Quarter;  Jain  Hospital  for  Animals;  Arab  Horse 
Bazaar;  Sacred  Bulls;  Dancing  Girls;  Tonsorial 

Scene 55-63 

Chapter  VI. — Moving  Northward 64 


Complete  Railway  System;  Monkeys  as  Aven- 
gers ; Ahmed-abad ; Artistic  Wood  Carving ; Car- 
pet Weaving;  The  City  of  Jains;  A Sunset  Scene ; 
District  of  Guzerat ; Irish  Presbyterian  Missions ; 
A Mohammedan  Convert ; Provision  for  Boycotted 
Converts;  The  Matrimonial  Nuisance;  Medical 
Missions;  Dr.  Livingstone’s  Body  Identified; 
An  Imposing  Escort ; The  Salvation  Army  in 


India;  A Sabbath  at  Anan 64-78 

Chapter  VII. — Towards  Jeypore 82 

The  Bed  of  Ancient  Seas;  the  Hindu  Farmer; 

Early  Morning  Scenes ; Mount  Abu ; Land  of  the 

King’s  Children 82-85 

Chapter  VIII. — An  Indian  City 86 


“ The  Rose  Red  City;  ” Amber  Chank  and  Ruby 
Chank;  The  Rajah’s  Palaces;  Royal  Stables; 
Works  of  Jey  Singh;  A Lair  for  Wild  Beasts; 
Ruins  and  Palace  of  Amber;  Temples  and  Rites 


of  Kali ; A Bloody  Sacrifice 86-94 

Chapter  IX. — Ferozepore  and  Surroundings 94 


A Dak  Bungalow ; Missionary  Hospitality ; An 
Afghan  Household;  Medical  Mission  Work; 
Street  Preaching ; A Verbal  Duel;  A Hypocriti- 


cal Hearer;  Conversion  of  Mr.  Mai  Das 94-102 

Chapter  X. — The  Punjab  and  its  Capital I06 


The  Sikhs ; Contests  with  the  British ; Sir  John 
and  Sir  James  Lawrence ; Intrigues  of  the  Queen 
Regent;  Dhuleep  Singh;  Lahore;  Tomb  of 
Rungeet  Singh ; Poisoning  as  a Kingly  Pastime ; 

A Dishonored  Mosque I06-IX3 


U1 


Chapter  XI. — Christian  Unity  and  Progress 

Missionary  Society  in  the  Punjab  ; Result  of  a 
Century’s  Seed  Sowing ; The  Power  of  Instruction 
in  English;  Young  Ladies’  Seminary:  Zenana 
Work;  Visit  to  Schools;  Dirt  as  a Badge  of 
Mourning;  Advanced  Students;  Reason  for 
Wearing  Soiled  Garments;  Deceiving  the  Gods; 
Mission  Chapels,  Schools,  and  Colleges ; Revs. 
Newton  and  Forman;  Presbyterian  College; 
Church  Missionary  Society;  United  Presbyterian 
Missions 

Chapter  XII. — A Speech  to  the  Orientals 

An  Assembly  of  Married  Men 

Chapter  XIII. — Political  and  Military  Conditions 

of  India 

The  Cock-pit  of  India;  Political  Formations  and 
Conditions;  The  Magistrate;  Military  Establish- 
ment, and  Sources  of  Danger  to  the  Empire ; God- 
less Government  Schools ; Railway  System ; Mili- 
tary Precautions 

Chapter  XIV. — Umriisur,  the  Holy  City  of  the  Sikhs 
The  Sikhs;  Manufactures;  An  Honored  Mission- 
ary; Schools;  “ A.  L.  O.  E. ; ” Honorary  Work- 
ers ; A Hindu  Authoress ; Hospital  and  Medical 

Work  ; A Flag  for  Jesus 

Chapter  X V. — The  Golden  Temple  of  Umritsur 

Transmigration ; The  Pool  of  Immortality  ; “ The 
Book;  ” Scenes  Around  the  Pool;  The  Temple; 
Scene  in  the  Interior;  Bestiality;  Missionary 

Patience 

Chapter  XVI. — Ramified  Curses 

Caste  ; Origin  of  Caste ; The  Aryans  ; Ordinances 
of  Manu ; The  Founder  of  Buddhism ; Marriage 
with  other  Castes  Forbidden ; Physical  Degener- 
acy ; Child  Marriage ; The  Incubus  of  Debt ; In- 
fanticide; Lack  of  National  Feeling;  A Hoary 
Curse ; Worship  of  the  Cow ; A Penitential  Pill 


PAGE 

II3 


113-130 

I3I 

131-132  , 
141 


141-148 

149 


149-160 

160 


160-170 

172 


172-190 


PAGB 


Chapter  XVII. — Lodiana 192 

Rivers;  The  Himalayas ; The  Birth-place  of  Amer- 
ican Presbyterian  Missions;  Childhood  Memories; 

First  Missionaries;  Lodiana  Press ; A Man  Born 
to  His  Mission;  Industrial  Department  in 
Schools;  Zenanas  Visited;  Last  Heir  to  the 
Throne  of  Cabool ; A Breach  of  a Command- 
ment; A Mohammedan  Mother;  Women  Anxious 


to  Learn 192-205 

Chapter  XVIII. — TVoman  in  India 206 


Debasement  of  Women ; Reason  of  Their  Seclu- 
sion; Reason  for  Hostility  to  Learning;  Temple 
Prostitution;  The  Marriage  Question;  Obstacles 


in  Choice  of  a Wife ; Domestic  Felicities 206-215 

Chapter  XIX. — Saharanpur 216 


Botanical  Gardens  and  Suttee  Monuments ; Mis- 
sion Homes  as  Object  Lessons;  Servants;  Mis- 


sions; Theological  Seminary;  Woodstock; 

Dehra 216-227 

pter  XX. — Ancestral  Robber  Castes  in  India  22S 

Crime  in  the  Name  of  Religion;  Dacoits;  Thug- 
ism  ; Durga  or  Kali ; Thug  Villages ; A Dose  of 
Extinction 228-235 

Chapter  XXI. — Animals  as  Related  to  Hindu 

Future  Life 236 


A Succession  of  Births ; Serpent  Adoration ; Zool- 

atry;  Tiger  Worship;  Hanuman,  the  Monkey  God  236-242 

Chapter  XXII. — Concerning  Snakes  and  Other 


Creepers  and  Crawlers 244 

The  Cobra;  Snake  Charmers;  A Fight  with  a 
Mongoose;  The  Boa;  Crocodiles;  White  Ants  244-249 

Chapter  XXIII. — Delhi,  Ancient  and  Modern  252 
The  Acqueduct ; Ruined  Cities ; Delhi,  Old  and 
New;  Various  Invaders;  The  Moghul  Rule; 

Sultan  Babar;  Humayan;  Ruins  of  Seven  Cities; 

Tomb  of  Humayan 252-257 


T 


PAGE 

Chapter  XXIV. — Tombs  Near  Delhi 260 

Cbausat  Kamba;  Shah  Nizamudin ; The  Poet 
Kushru;  Tomb  of  the  Drunken  Danyel ; Jahanira 
Begum 260-266 


Chapter  XXV. — Delhi  and  its  Ruins 268 

Kutab  Minar ; Pillar  of  Asoka ; The  Citadel  of 
Old  Delhi;  Metcalf  House;  Rajah  Jei  Singh’s 
Gnomon ; Modem  Delhi ; Oriental  Processions  268-275 

Chapter  XX  VI.—  Wonders  of  Delhi 276 

Moghul  Emperors;  Akbar;  Jehangir;  Shah 

Jehan ; The  Jumma  Musjid 276-280 

Chapter  XX  VII. — The  Fort  and  Palace 283 

Statues  of  the  Chittor  Chiefs ; Dewan  A’ Am ; A 
Moghul  Court;  Oriental  Splendor 283-291 

Chapter  XXVIII. — Royal  Palaces  at  Delhi 292 


The  Dewan  Khas ; The  Peacock  Throne  ; An 
Oriental  Bath ; Mahommed  Shah ; Delhi  Invested 
by  Nadir  Shah ; Invaded  by  the  Maharattas ; 
Fate  of  Shah  Jehan;  Aumngezebe;  A Moghul 


War  Outfit ; End  of  the  Moghul  Dynasty 292-302 

Chapter  XXIX. — The  Sepoy  Mutiny  of  Delhi 302 

Causes  of  the  Uprising;  Too  Much  Concession  to 
Caste;  Chupatties;  Uprising  at  Meerut;  Advance 
on  Delhi ; The  Beginning  of  Sorrows ; Destruc- 
tion of  the  Magazine ; Scenes  of  Torture 302-309 

Chapter  XXX. — Sei^e  and  Capture  of  Delhi 3II 


First  Relief  Party;  Sir  John  Lawrence  and  Gen. 
John  Nicholson;  British  Heroism;  Days  of  Ven- 
geance ; Death  of  Gen.  Nicholson ; End  of  the 
Moghul  Princes;  The  Last  Moghul  Emperor; 
Society  for  Propagation  of  the  Gospel  in  Delhi ; 


Cambri  dge  M ission 311-318 

Chapter  XXX I — Agra 319 


The  Fort ; Public  Audience  Hall ; Gates  of  Som- 

nath;  Akbar’s  Palace ; Apartments  of  the  Sultana  319-325 


VI 


PAGE 

Chapter  XXXII. — Akbar's  Palace  at  Agra 327 

The  Shish  Mahal;  The  Black  Throne;  Parchisi 
Board;  Nur  Mahal’s  Mother-in-law;  Ladies’ 

Mosque;  The  Pearl  Mosque;  Cisterns  and 
Underground  Rooms;  Agra  Invested  by  Gen. 

Lake;  Durbar  of  1866;  Rajahs  and  Begums  327-334 

Chapter  XX XI II— The  Taj 335 

Itmud-ud-Daulah Birth  of  Nur  Mahal,  and  Mar- 
riage to  the  Emperor  Jehangir ; Moomtaz-el- Mahal, 
the  Lady  of  the  Taj ; Gateway  of  the  Taj ; Gar- 
den of  the  Taj;  Temple  and  Palace  of  the 
Dead;  Sarcophagi  of  Royal  Dead;  Lacework 
of  Marble  and  Precious  Stones ; Mosaics ; In- 
terior Dome;  Transfiguring  Effect  of  the  Light; 

The  Defiled  Dome ; Tomb  of  Itmud-ud-Daulah  335-352 

Chapter  XXXIV. — Cawnpore  and  its  Bloody  Records  353 

Oriental  Adventures  in  England ; A Hindu  Spy ; 

Nana  Sahib  aud  His  Grievances;  Outbreak  of  the 
Mutiny;  Orders  of  Gen.  Wheeler;  Traps  set  by 
the  Nana ; The  Well  and  Place  of  the  Dead ; 

Gen.  Wheeler’s  Credulity ; The  Nana’s  Treach- 
erous Offer ; The  Massacre  at  Suttee  Ghat ; Ac- 
count of  a Native  Eye  Witness;  Prisoners  in  the 
Savada  House  ; Fate  of  the  Women ; Havelock’s 
March  to  Vengeance;  The  House  of  Massacre; 

The  Army  of  Avengers;  Rout  of  the  Nana’s 
Forces;  The  Well  of  Slaughter  and  Messages 


from  the  Well ; Swift  and  Awful  Punishment ; 

Mutineers  Fired  from  Guns;  “God’s  Acre;” 

Memorial  Church;  Methodist  Methods  of  Mission 

Work 353-380 

Chapter  XXXV. — Futteghurh  Mission  and  Mass- 
acre   382 

Famine  Scenes ; Work  of  Dr.  Henry  R.  Wilson ; 

First  Blow  of  the  Mutiny ; Martyr  Trophies  of  the 
Presbyterian  Church ; Steadfastness  of  Native 
Converts ; Sufferings  of  the  Survivors 382-389 


PAGE 


Chapter  XXXVI. — Lucknow,  its  Surroundings  and 

Bloody  Histories 

The  Last  King  of  Oudh ; Siege  of  the  Residency ; 
Death  of  Sir  Henry  Lawrence ; Horrors  of  the 
Basements;  Jessie  of  Lucknow;  Sir  Henry  Have- 
lock ; English  Advance  on  the  Residency ; Neil’s 
Gate;  Arrival  of  Sir  Colin  Campbell;  Sir  James 


Aubran ; Death  of  Gen.  Havelock ; Tht  Imam- 
bara;  The  Hosunabad  Imambara;  Methodist 
Mission  Work  ; Home  for  Homeless  Women 392-406 

Chapter  XXXVIL— Allahabad 407 

The  Ganges;  Junction  of  the  Ganges  and  Jumna; 

Allahabad  in  History  ; “Ye  Pygges  and  the  Ele- 
phants ;”  Pillar  of  Asoka;  Sacred  Pipal  Tree; 
Underground  Temple 407-414 

Chapter  XXXVIII. — The  Fort,  Street  Scenes,  and 

Serai  Gardens  of  Allahabad. 415 

The  Grand-father  of  Asoka ; Mosque  and  Tem- 
ple ; An  Oriental  Market ; Street  Preaching ; The 
Serai  and  Gardens 415-42I 

Chapter  XXXIX. — Fairs  and  Fakirs  at  Allahabad  423 
A Holy  Man;  The  Monkey  God;  The  Yearly 
Mela;  A Universal  Shearing;  Christian  Work  at 
the  Mela;  A Mela  for  Christ;  Fakirs  ; Visit  to  a 
Wealthy  Hindu 423-429 

Chapter  XL. — Mission  Work  in  Allahabad. 43 1 


The  Jumna  Mission;  Native  Christian  Homes; 
Home  for  Lepers;  Kutra  Mission;  Mission  Press; 
Medical  Work;  Divinity  School  of  the  London 
Church  Missionary  Society  ; Tricks  of  Madame 


Blavatsky 431-442 

Chapter  XL  I. — South-east  India — Benares 443 

The  Brain  of  Idolatry  ; The  Rise  of  Buddhism ; 
Mohammedan  Conquest ; Shiva  Worship ; Vishnu 
Worship;  Ram;  Hanuraan;  Krishna 443-449 


TUI 


Chapter  XL II. — Religious  Shrines  in  Benares 

Sacred  Well;  Scenes  in  the  Golden  Temple; 
The  Cow  Temple  j Durga  Kund ; Car  of  Jugger- 
naut ; Dasaswamedh  Ghat ; Manakamika  Ghat ; 
Burial  of  a Fakir;  Downfall  of  Heathenism, 
Toward  Calcutta;  Unclean  Water 

Chapter  XL  III. — Crossing  the  Hooghly 

National  Hostilities  of  the  People  ; Conquerors  from 
the  North ; Conquerors  from  the  West ; Dupleix  at 
Pondicherry ; Robert  Clive  ; Surajah  Dowlah 

Chapter  XL IV. — Warren  Hastings ^ the  Builder  of 

the  British  Empire  in  India 

Mohamed  Reza  Khan ; Seizure  of  Rohilicund ; 
The  Regulating  Act ; Conspiracies  Against  Hast- 
ings ; Arrest  and  Execution  of  Nuncomar 

Chapter  XL  V. — Calcutta  and  its  Environments 

Shops  and  Tradesmen  ; Portrait  of  George  Wash- 
ington on  Cornwallis  street ; The  American  Eagle ; 
Hindu  Ideas  of  Cleanliness ; The  Park  in  Cal- 
cutta ; The  Black  Town 

Chapter  XL  VI. — Religious  Condition  of  Bengal. 

Sacred  Waters  of  the  Ganges ; Third  Class  Rail- 
way Carriages;  First  Point  of  Indo-European 
History;  An  Ancient  City;  Insult  to  a Sacred 
Beast ; Birth-place  of  Christianity  in  Bengal 

Chapter  XL  VII. — Christianity  Persecuted  by  its  own 

Friends  

Hostility  of  the  East  Indian  Company ; First 
Hindu  Convert ; The  Serampur  Mission  ; Henry 
Marty  n 

Chapter  XL  VIII. — Surajah  Dowlah 

The  ©lack  Hole  of  Calcutta;  The  Outrage 
Avenged ; Novel  Method  of  Treating  Debtors ; 
A Wedding  Procession;  The  Last  King  of  Oudh  ; 
A “ Moving  ” in  Calcutta 


PAGE 

450 

450-464 

467 

467-473  ' 

474 

474-482 

483 

483-491 

492 

492-498 

500 

500-503 

508 

ro8-5IS 


ix 


PAGE 

Chapter  XLlX. — “ Missionary  Humbugs" 516 

What  Missions  have  Accomplished ; A Scotch 
Medical  Missionary  in  Rajputana ; Woman’s 
Union  Mission;  Temple  of  Juggernaut  at  Puri; 

Work  of  Various  Missionary  Societies;  Methods 
of  Dr.  Duff;  Testimony  of  a Brahmin;  First  Sys- 
tematic Zenana  Work ; Work  of  the  Established 


and  Free  Churches  of  Scotland;  Methodist  Mis- 
sion Work 516-526 

Chapter  L. — Fragments  Gathered  Up 8 

The  Bengalese ; The  Santhals ; Dhargeling ; 

Passage  Down  the  Hooghly ; Sanitariums ; The 
Rainy  Season  and  its  Discomforts;  A Stormy 
Voyage 528-535 

Chapter  LI. — Madras ; 536 


Unsafe  Harbor  ; Location  of  the  City ; Buildings  ; 

Progress  of  Christianity;  American  Missions; 

Scotch  Missions ; School  for  High  Caste  Women ; 

Clothed  in  Umbrellas  Only ; Pondicherry ; A 
“ Voyage”  in  a Carriage  ; Seeing  the  American 
Comanche;  Farewell  to  India 53^553 


1 


THE 


MOGHUL,  MONGOL,  MIKADO 
AND  MISSIONARY. 


CHAPTER  I. 

INDIA  TAST  AND  PRESENT.  ' 

From  Cairo  a journey  to  Suez  must  be  made  to 
embark  for  India.  The  railway  passes  through 
the  richest  part  of  Egypt,  and  through  Goshen,  where 
Joseph  established  his  father  and  brethren.  He  gave 
them  the  fattest  of  the  land  during  his  life,  but  it  be- 
came the  scene  of  their  sore  bondage  when  the  great 
Prime  Minister  had  gone.  Usually  when  a conspicu- 
ous foreigner,  who  has  served  an  adopted  country 
well,  has  departed  he  is  succeeded  by  a reactionary 
party,  who  are  zealous  to  efface  all  he  has  done,  and 
this  was,  no  doubt,  the  case  after  Joseph  had  dropped 
the  sceptre  of  power.  The  route  from  Goshen  to  the 
crossing  of  the  Red  Sea  is  near  the  railroad  much  of 
the  way  to  the  point  of  crossing,  which  has  never  been 
certainly  located,  but  the  eye  will  inevitably  rest 
upon  it  somewhere  in  the  last  hours  of  the  journey. 

The  Red  Sea  has  receded  and  is  receding  at  this 
point,  so  that  Suez  will,  before  many  years,  be  out  in 
the  desert.  It  is  even  now  isolated ; the  Canal  enter- 
ing the  Red  Sea  further  down  the  inlet.  It  was  a 
great  event  years  ago  when  the  first  ships  from  India 
reached  this  point ; the  time  was  reduced  to  three 
weeks  from  Bombay  to  Alexandria  at  the  accession  of 
Queen  Victoria  to  the  throne.  Suez  is  now  in  the  last 

3 


4 


stages  of  dilapidation.  Across  the  bay  is  a green 
patch  by  the  side  of  dreary  mountains,  and  in  a nar- 
row valley,  between  these  and  the  sea,  is  a well,  which 
is  called  “ Moses’  Well,”  from  which,  tradition  says, 
the  children  of  Israel,  on  the  way  to  Mount  Sinai, 
drank.  The  line  of  march  can  be  seen  for  a consider- 
able distance  from  the  Red  Sea,  and  after  a day’s  • 
journey  Mount  Sinai  is  pointed  out  from  the  ship  not 
more  than  ten  miles  away.  It  is  visible  to  with  the 
naked  eye,  and  by  the  ship’s  glass  can  be  seen  as 
clearly  as  if  it  were  only  a mile  away.  It  is  in  the 
midst  of  almost  countless  cone-shaped  knobs,  rising 
over  a great  stretch  of  territory,  Mount  Sinai  tower- 
ing like  a dome  over  all.  It  is  naked,  wrinkled, 
scarred  and  browmed  with  centuries  of  conflict  with 
the  elements,  and  with  time.  To  reach  it  by  horses 
or  camels  would  take  ten  days  at  least,  but  this 
more  on  account  of  the  ruggedness  and  narrowness 
of  the  mountain  paths  and  defiles  than  by  the  distance. 

On  the  south  side  of  the  Red  Sea,  in  sight  for  three 
days,  is  the  coast  of  Egypt,  extending  on  the  west  to 
the  Soudan.  On  this  coast  England  disembarked  her 
troops  and  stores  for  the  bootless  contest  with  Osman 
Digma  and  the  Madhi.  Suakim  is  the  port  of  supply, 
and  from  this  to  Berber,  on  the  Nile,  a railroad  was 
projected.  It  has  not  been  finished,  but  will  become 
a war  necessity  some  day  if  the  English  mean  to 
hold  this  part  of  Egypt.  The  Red  Sea  is  1,664  miles 
in  length  and  about  120  miles  broad  at  its  widest  part. 

The  Indian  Ocean  is  nearly  2,000  miles  across  to 
Bombay  via  Bab-el-mendel  and  the  Gulf  of  Aden. 
Aden  is  a forlorn  and  dreary  place  on  the  edge  of  the 
vast  desert  of  Arabia,  and  important  only  as  a coal- 
ing station  for  English  vessels.  It  is  intensely  hot. 


5 


and  the  sailors  have  a story  that  a man  celebrated  for 
his  villainous  life  died  in  this  place  and  was  buried. 
In  a day  or  two  he  reappeared,  to  the  consternation 
of  all,  but  he  explained  that  he  had  only  come  back 
after  a blanket 

The  name  of  the  vast  Empire  of  India  is  derived 
from  the  River  Indus,  which,  to  the  ancient  geogra- 
phers, was  the  boundary  of  this  country.  Indus  is 
the  Greek  form  of  the  Persian  Hind  and  Sanscrit 
Sindh.  The  name  Hindustan  now”  applies  to  the 
north- w”estern  part  of  the  Empire.  Northern  India 
consists  of  the  plains  formed  by  the  two  great  rivers, 
the  Indus  and  Ganges  and  their  tributaries.  India 

has  a history  that  reads  like  a romance.  It  is 

in  no  way  the  tame  country  w”ithout  a great  past 
which,  because  of  its  centuries  of  effeteness  and 
bondage,  many  have  come  to  believe  it  to  be.  It 
has  been  changeful  and  vicissitudinous  in  its  life 
and  has  had  alternate  stratas  of  glory  and  shame, 
until  at  last  only  disaster  spreads  itself  over  its  history. 
The  Empire  has  been  built  up  not  of  a homogeneous 
people,  but,  like  the  earth’s  crust,  through  dynasties 
strangely  different  and  at  variance.  The  Hindus 
themselves  are  not  the  aborigines ; before  history  had 
recorded  aught  concerning  the  country  a tall,  slight, 
handsome  race,  olive-colored,  sw”armed  dow’n  from 
Central  Asia  and  covered  its  plains,  and  drove  out  its 
swarthy  inhabitants.  No  more  is  know”ii  until  the 
Persians,  under  Darius  Hystaspes,  and  the  Greeks, 
under  Alexander,  invaded  the  country  before  the 
Christian  era.  After  this  the  Khalifs  of  Bagdad  and 
their  invincible  Arabs  cleft  a w”ay  for  the  Koran 
through  Sindh  and  the  Punjab  at  the  close  of  the  seventh 
century.  In  their  wake  came  Mohammed,  the  Destroyer, 


6 


visiting  it  twelve  times,  in  furious  desolations,  exter- 
minating its  idols  and  idolatries  and  every  thing  else 
that  came  in  his  way,  only  sparing  life  to  cast  into  ser- 
vitude. F ollowing  was  the  house  of  Ghor,  coming  from 
the  north-west,  which  carried  Mohammedanism  by  the 
edge  of  the  SAVord  into  Bengal  in  1151  to  1206.  Then 
came  the  Turk-born  slave  kings,  Avho  reduced  Mahvah 
and  established  Moslem  dominion  to  the  Yiudhya 
chain  in  1206  to  1288. 

But  the  bloody  line  of  conquest  rested  not  here,  for 
the  Kiljees  reduced  the  Degcan  and  Guzerat  in 
1288  to  1321.  But  their  bloody  tracks  had  hardly 
faded  from  memory  Avhen  the  house  of  Loghluk,  hal 
Turk  and  half  Indian,  left  India  again  in  desolation 
in  its  defeat  in  the  Deccan  and  Bengal,  1321  to  1412 
Then  came  the  Tartars,  under  the  lame  Timour,  Avho 
sacked  Delhi  in  1398.  But  instability  is  again  Avrit- 
ten  on  its  fair  face,  in  the  Avay  the  Syuds,  Viceroys  of 
Timour,  let  the  Empire  slip  from  their  priestly  hands, 
until  they  Avere  left  with  only  Delhi  and  a garden, 
1412  to  1450.  The  time  of  destiny  again  appeared, 
for  the  Afghan  house  of  Lodi  came  again  from  the 
dreaded  North,  and  conquered  from  the  Himalayas  to 
Benares,  1450  to  1526,  founding  that  last  and  most 
famous  Tartar  dynasty  of  the  great  Moguls,  AA’hich  rose 
AAuth  Baber  Humayoon  and  culminated  Avith  Akbar, 
Jehangir  and  Shah  Jehan,  but  Avhich  AAent  into  its 
sunsetting  under  Arungzebe,  and  after  the  struggle  of 
a century  Avith  the  Maharattas,  Sikhs,  Bohillas  and 
Afghans,  it  sunk  doAvn  into  pitiable  insignificance  and 
was  AA'iped  out  on  the  bloody  field  of  Paniput. 

And  noAA^  after  all  these  inA'asions  and  internal  upheav- 
als, Avhen  Aveakness  had  again  sat  doAAm  on  its  thrones,  a 
handful  of  Avhite  men  came  across  the  Western  seas  and 


7 


began  slowly  to  subjugate  the  people  until  their  sway  is 
now  absolute  over  250,000,000  of  people,  who  for  one 
hundred  years  have  been  practically  governed  from 
London.  On  Downing  street  stands  the  capital  of  the 
great  Indian  Empire.  They  have  reduced  Moguls, 
Rajahs  and  Nawabs  alike  to  eat  their  bread  from  their 
hands,  tried  and  discrowned  and  exiled  the  last  of  the 
Moguls,  once  the  proud  rulers  in  the  great  Palace  of 
Delhi.  This  unparalleled  supremacy  grew,  in  Britain’s 
hands,  from  a permit  to  have  only  a factory  on  Indian 
soil.  If  the  British  lion  can  only  get  soil  enough  to 
plant  the  nail  of  a single  toe  he  will  soon  range^  about 
to  the  extent  of  his  whole  body,  demanding  room  for 
all  necessary  circus  performances.  India  is  a jewel 
which  has  always  excited  the  cupidity  of  the  nations. 
It  was  in  quest  of  a north-west  passage,  by  which 
he  thought  to  reach  it,  that  Columbus  sailed  wesl^ 
ward  across  the  Atlantic.  In  this  voyage  he  dis- 
covered America,  which  was  at  first  supposed  to 
be  a part  of  India,  and  as  the  result  of  the  mis- 
conception we  have  the  “West  Indies.”  On  the  last 
day  of  the  sixteenth  century  the  East  India  Company 
was  incorporated  by  royal  charter  for  one  hundred 
'and  fifty  years,  the  only  purpose  being  trade  or  greed. 
The  French  were  expelled  by  the  British  in  1761. 
The  territorial  rule  of  England  dates  from  the  Battle 
of  Plassey,  June  23d,  1757,  when  Lord  Clive  routed 
and  demolished  an  army  of  immensely  superior  num- 
bers under  the  Nawab  of  Bengal.  A more  surpris- 
ing coincidence  is  that  just  a century  after  the  Sepoy 
rebellion  was  reaching  the  tide-mark  of  its  power,  from 
which  began  another  dynasty  making  a place  for  itself 
in  history. 


8 


A few  outlines  will  be  needed  to  give  an  idea 
of  the  country  governed  by  a handful  of  far-away 
white  men.  Every  thing  in  and  about  India  has  the- 
appearance  of  exaggeration.  The  Himalayas  are 
double  the  altitude  of  the  Alps.  Her  rivers  are 
larger,  longer  and  broader  than  any  in  Europe.  Her 
plains  are  broader  and  richer,  fenced  everywhere  by 
the  horizon.  India  is  as  large  as  all  Europe,  excepting 
Russia.  The  question  will  rise  in  the  minds  of  the 
thoughtful,  how  is  it  possible  to  govern  such  a country 
by  means  apparently  so  inadequate  ? It  is  easily  an- 
swered. The  strifes  arising  in  a division  of  tongues  are 
the  cause.  There  is  comparative  unity  in  language  in 
all  countries  ruling  themselves. 

India  is  divided  into  hostile  factions,  Hindus,  Mo- 
hammedans, Buddhists,  Sikhs,  Parsees,  Christians, 
worshippers  of  the  sun  and  moon,  all  intermixed  and 
none  of  them  governed  by  that  charity  which  toler- 
ates the  liberty  in  others  which  they  desire  for 
themselves.  Through  these  race  and  caste  hostil- 
ities united  England  can,  by  an  army  of  70,000, 
govern  250,000,000  people.  The  power  which  now 
aspires  to  govern  India  is  Christianity.  It  proposes 
to  do  this  by  giving  her  a new  and  better  regulated 
life,  whose  nature  is  unity,  and  which  can  fit 
her  to  govern  herself  politically,  for  whoever  has 
learned  to  govern  morally  will  obtain  the  best  political 
institutions.  Christianity  is  not  an  adventurer  in  In- 
dia, nor  an  intruder.  It  probably  reached  its  shores 
in  the  first  century,  certainly  in  the  second.  Tradi- 
tion says  it  entered  by  the  Apostle  Thomas.  The 
Syncan  of  Malabar  still  calls  its  members  Christians 
of  Saint  Thomas.  Pantaenus,  the  famous  head  of  the 
Catechetical  school  at  Alexandria,  A.  D.  180,  heard 


9 


from  Egyptian  sailors  lliat  there  were  Christians  in 
India,  and  went  forth  himself  as  a missionary  there. 
At  the  Council  of  Nice,  A.  D.  325,  one  of  the  assem- 
bled bishops  was  Johannes,  Metropolitan  of  Persia 
and  the  great  India.  A little  later  Athanasius  sent 
Frumentius  to  India  as  Bishop.  When  Vasco  de 
Gama  reached  India  by  sea,  round  the  Cape,  in  1498, 
he  found  flourishing  Nestorian  churches  in  South  In- 
dia, which,  though  holding  many  errors,  knew  noth- 
ing of  the  Papacy  and  Virgin  homage. 

An  army  of  Portuguese  priests  came  in,  and  in 
many  places  the  native  Christians  submitted  to  the 
Romish  yoke.  In  1541  Francis  Xavier  landed  at  Goa 
and  found  signs  of  Portuguese  Christianity  in  a mag- 
nificent cathedral  and  a resident  bishop,  &c.  His 
successors  debauched  all  religion,  converted  men  by 
force,  all  the  married  priests  were  deposed,  a doctrine 
of  transubstantiation  and  worship  of  the  Virgin  en- 
forced and  the  Inquisition  established.  In  1654  a metro- 
politan, who  was  sent  from  Antioch  for  the  Bishop  of 
Malabar  in  the  Syrian  Church,  was  burnt  at  Goa  as 
a heretic.  Another  of  famous  name  sent  from  Rome 
in  this  connection  was  Robert  d Nobili,  a nephew  of 
Cardinal  Bellarmine.  They  swore  that  they  were 
Brahmins,  and  so  great  was  the  scandal  of  their  evan- 
gelizing proceedings  that  Pope  Benedict  XIV.,  by  a 
Bull  in  1742,  forbade  many  of  their  practices.  Eng- 
land was  sinfully  apathetic,  and  for  more  than  one  hun- 
dred years  after  the  founding  of  the  East  India  Com- 
pany no  missionary  had  been  sent  to  this  dependency. 
Nor  wasjthe  East  India  Company  any  better,  morally, 
than  the  heathen,  for  through  nearly  all  its  existence 
it  opposed  every  effort  introducing  Christianity  and 
throttled  the  best  men  of  the  time,  who  found  them 


10 


Tvorse  obstacles  than  the  heathen  themselves.  They  were 
eighty  years  in  this  country  before  a church  was  built. 
A new  charter,  given  in  1698,  required  the  Company 
to  provide  a chaplain  in  every  garrison  and  principal 
factory,  and  enjoined  on  such  chaplains  the  duty  of 
learning  the  language  in  order  to  instruct  the  Gen- 
toos,  who  should  be  servants  or  slaves  of  said  Com- 
pany, in  the  Protestant  religion. 

The  honor  of  sending  the  first  missionaries  belongs 
to  Frederick  IV.,  of  Denmark.  The  Danes  had  a set- 
tlement at  Tranquebar  on  the  south-east  coast  of  In- 
dia, and  to  this  in  1705  sailed  Bartholomew  Ziengen- 
balg  and  Henry  Plutscho,  gifted  and  devoted  men. 
They  did  a remarkable  work,  translating  the  New 
Testament  into  Tamil,  and  were  the  first  to  attempt  to 
^ive  the  Scriptures  to  India.  Above  all  others 
Schwartz  did  the  greatest  work,  extending  it  into 
South  India,  and  many  thousands  of  converts  were 
gathered ; both  these  Germans  and  Danes  were  Luth- 
erans. No  man  ever  had  on  Indian  soil  greater  in- 
fluence over  the  people  in  every  respect  than  Schwartz. 
The  British  authorities  sought  his  aid  in  dealing  with 
native  Rajahs,  in  settling  political  and  social  questions, 
nnd  Hyder  Ali  himself,  the  Mohammedan  tyrant 
of  Mysore,  said,  when  the  English  wished  to  treat 
with  him,  “ They  could  send  me  the  Christian  Schwartz. 
I can  trust  him.”  One  of  the  few  noble  things  which 
the  East  India  Company  did  was  to  give  an  order  to 
Racon,  the  sculptor,  for  a statue  of  Schwartz,  and 
;sent  it  to  be  erected  in  the  Fort  church  in  Madras. 
From  1793  to  1813  the  East  India  Company  would 
not  tolerate  missionaries. 

In  1793  William  Carey,  the  founder  of  the  Baptist 
Missionary  Society  and  the  pioneer  of  modern  mis- 


11 


sions  in  India,  arrived  at  Calcutta  in  a Danish  vessel, 
having  been  refused  a passage  in  one  of  the  East  India 
Company’s  ships.  Ele  began  by  managing  an  indigo 
factory,  while  preparing  for  his  future  work.  In  1797 
four  comrades  arrived,  two  of  w^hom  w^ere  Marshman 
and  Ward,  but  they  had  to  seek  a location  in  the 
Danish  settlement  of  Serampore,  and  there,  three 
years  later,  Carey  joined  them  and  established,  under 
the  flag  of  Denmark,  the  famous  Serampore  mission. 
In  1812  a party  of  American  missionaries,  who  arrived 
at  Calcutta,  were  expelled  from  the  country.  One ' of 
these  w'as  Judson,  who  ultimately  found  his  way  to 
Birmah  and  established  the  Baptist  mission  wdth  such 
blessed  results.  The  Company  was  not  wdiolly  master 
of  the  situation  however,  for  five  of  the  chaplains, 
which  the  government  compelled  them’ to  have,  became 
wonderful  workers  and-  have  left  illustrious  names. 
These  were  David  Brown,  Claudius  Buchanan, 
Henry  Martyn,  Daniel  Corrie  and  Thomas  Thomason, 
all  of  wdiom  had  imbibed  the  spirit  of  the  pious  Sim- 
eon, of  Cambridge.  Indirectly  from  this  influence 
came  to  Simeon  the  idea  of  the  Church  Missionary 
Society. 

In  1813  the  East  India  Company’s  charter  w^as  re- 
newed, and  William  Wilberforce,  after  a terrible  battle, 
supported  by  the  popular  Christian  voice  of  England, 
got  a clause  inserted,  to  wdt,  “ That  it  is  the  duty  of  this 
country  to  promote  the  interest  and  happiness  of  the 
native  inhabitants  of  the  British  dominions  in  India, 
and  that  such  measures  ought  to  be  adopted  as  may 
tend  to  the  introduction  among  them  of  useful  knowl- 
edge and  of  religious  and  moral  improvement,  and 
that  sufficient  facilities  shall  be  afforded  by  law  to  per- 
sons going  to  and  remaining  in  India  for  the  purpose 


12 


of  accomplishing  these  benevolent  designs.”  The  suc- 
ceeding twenty  years  saw  the  rooting  of  many  success- 
ful efforts.  The  London  Missionary  Society  and  the 
Baptist  Societies  of  England  and  America  extended 
their  work  into  the  north-west  and  the  Baptists  into 
' Bengal.  The  two  American  missionaries  expelled 
from  Calcutta  settled  in  Bombay.  The  Wesleyans 
began  in  the  south  in  1816.  The  Church  Missionary 
Society  sent  out  seven  missionaries  in  the  years  fol- 
lowing, one  of  whom  was  the  first  English  clergyman 
who  went  to  India  under  a Missionary  Society.  The 
Orissa  mission  of  the  General  Baptists  was  begun  in 
1822.  A Scotch  mission  was  begun  at  Bombay  in 
1825. 

In  the  next  twelve  years  more  rooting  of  mission 
work  was  done.  The  Church  Missionary  Society  or- 
ganized the  Kushnagar  mission  in  1831.  The  Society 
for  the  Propagation  of  the  Gospel  founded  the  mission 
of  Cawnpore  in  1833;  the  Basle  mission  in  Malabar 
and  the  American  Board  mission  in  Madura  in  1834; 
the  American  Baptist  in  Telugu  in  1835 ; the  American 
Presbyterian  mission  in  the  North-west  Provinces  in 
1836;  the  Irish  Presbyterian  mission  in  Guzerat,  the 
Leipsic  Lutheran  mission  in  the  Carnatic,  the  Welsh 
Calvinistic  Methodist  mission  in  the  north-east  of  Ben- 
gal, the  American  Baptist  mission  in  Assain,  the  Ber- 
lin mission  in  Behar  in  1841 ; Gosner’s  mission  to  the 
Kols  in  1846;  the  American  Presbyterian  mission  to- 
the  Punjab  in  1849;  the  American  Reformed  Dutch 
in  Arcot  in  1850;  the  Church  Missionary  Society 
in  Himalaya,  Sindh  and  the  Punjab  on  the  Afghan 
frontier  from  1847  to  1853. 

Another  progressive  departure  was  made  in  1822. 
Miss  Cook,  of  the  Church  Missionary  Society,  began 


13 


•a  mission  at  Calcutta  among  women  and  girls,  which 
was  the  incipient  movement  in  the  great  zenana  mis- 
sions of  the  present.  Again  in  1830  there  was  another 
'effort  whose  pulses  throb  through  India  to  this  hour. 
This  was  ^he  work  of  the  afterwards  illustrious  Dr. 
Duff,  who  started  the  first  high  class  Anglo-Yer- 
nacular  mission  school  in  India,  and  by  these  two 
movements  chiefly  the  upper  classes  have  been 
reached.  Dr.  Duff’s  converts  have  moved  the  heart 
of  communities,  and  those  so  moved  have  been  the 
leaders  in  native  Christendom  to  this  hour.  The  same 
kind  of  work  was  carried  on  by  the  Scottish  mission- 
aries, Wilson  and  Anderson.  The  Established  and 
Free  Churches  of  Scotland  have  wrought  successfhlly 
to  the  same  benign  results.  In  1822  in  the  English 
Established  Church  a great  impulse  was  given  to  the 
work  in  the  succession  to  the  Bishopric  of  the  saintly 
Heber,  the  poet  missionary,  as  illustrious  in  the  one 
'quality  as  the  other.  He  ordained  the  first  native 
clergyman,  Abdul  Masih,  who  had  been  converted 
under  Martyn,  and  had  labored  under  Corrie. 

Religious  public  opinion  again  in  1833  forced  the 
East  Indian  Company  into  other  concessions,  through 
the  faithfulness  of  Grant,  the  younger,  and  Lord 
Bentinck,  then  Governor-General.  In  this  year 
Grant’s  famous  despatch  was  penned,  which  not  only 
startled  the  East  India  Company  but  all  Europe,  for- 
bidding the  government  to  be  sponsor  for  heathenism. 
The  government  was  no  longer  to  act  as  church  war- 
den to  Juggernaut,  no  longer  to  raise  a revenue  by 
temple  dues,  no  longer  to  take  part  in  heathen  proces- 
sions and  fire  salutes  in  honor  of  heathen  gods.  The 
prohibition  of  widow  burning,  child  sacrifice  and  pub- 
lic self-torture  followed,  and  a law  preventing  a con- 


14 


vert  to  Christianity  from  forfeiting  his  property  sue* 
ceeded  these.  But  this  godless  Company  set  itself  to 
oppose  most  of  these  reforms,  which  was  brought  to 
a sudden  crisis  in  1837,  when  Sir  Perigrine  Maitland, 
Commander-in-Chief  of  the  Madras  army,  resigned  his 
office  rather  than  pay  official  honor  to  an  idol.  The 
indignation  among  Christians  in  India  and  in  England 
was  so  overwhelming  that  the  East  India  Company* 
had  to  carry  out  the  reforms,  ostensibly  at  least,  though 
the  mischief  wrought  by  it  did  not  end  here. 

Dr.  Duff’s  influence  was  now  uppermost,  and  Govern 
nor  Lord  Bentinck  decided  a bitter  controversy  in 
favor  of  an  English  education  in  the  higher  schools  as 
against  an  education  merely  in  the  venacular  and 
Sanscrit.  This  led  to  the  celebrated  despatch  of  Sir 
C.  Wood,  drafted  by  the  present  Lord  Northbrook, 
establishing  Indian  Universities  and  a system  of 
grants  in  aid  to  mission  and  other  schools,  which 
would  give  sufficient  moral  and  secular  instructions. 
This  is  an  outline  of  religious  causes  in  aggressive  opera- 
tion in  1857,  the  year  of  the  mutiny,  which  divides  all 
Anglo-Indian  history  into  two  parts.  We  shall  survey 
these  events  only  through  mission  lights  and  shadows. 
Only  in  the  north  was  the  work  disturbed  at  all ; there 
almost  every  mission  station  was  destroyed.  The  Eng- 
lish Church  Missionary  Society,  the  Society  for  the 
Propagation  of  the  Gospel,  American  Baptists  and 
Presbyterians  suffered  alike ; only  in  the  three  latter, 
however,  were  lives  lost.  The  American  missions 
alone  have  the  honor  of  most  of  the  martyrdoms  and 
of  the  illustrious  native  Christians  who  died  likei 
their  teachers  rather  than  abjure  their  faith.  But 
again  the  blood  of  the  martyr  w^as  not  only  the  seed 
of  the  Church,  but  its  living  heart  impulse  as  well,  for 


15 


this  mutiny  shook  the  tree  of  life  that  it  might  take 
wider  and  stronger  root-hold  in  the  soil  soaked  in 
blood,  and  also  enlarge  its  trunk  and  lengthen  its- 
branches. 

Here  again  the  incarnate  heathenism  in  this  Eng- 
lish corporation  appears  in  the  mischief  it  infused. 
The  native  soldiers  who  did  so  much  to  save  the  Em^ 
pire  to  England  came  only  out  of  the  district  ruled 
by  decidedly  Christian  officers  of  the  army  and  states- 
men of  like  distinctive  principles.  The  Punjab  was 
ruled  by  such  Christian  men  as  the  Lawrences  and 
those  like-minded  under  them.  But  best  of  all  for 
Christ,  his  crown  and  kingdom,  the  mutiny  was  the 
funeral  service  of  the  East  India  Company,  for  iii 
1858  the  Queen  assumed  the  direct  government  of  her 
greatest  dependency  and  announced  the  fact  by  Royal 
Proclamation,  in  which  the  broadest  principles  of 
Christian  liberty  were  affirmed  and  Christianity  for 
the  first  time  avowed  by  the  supreme  ruler  of  the 
land. 

The  reader  will  be  helped  by  the  statistics  of  Pro- 
testant Missionary  Societies  in  India  to  a better  un- 
derstanding of  the  work,  and  the  following  are  ap- 
pended : 


Native  CkriMians. 

Adherents, 

OrmmunW 

cants. 

Church  Mission  Society, 

98,993 

21,071 

Society  for  the  Propagation  of  the  Gospel,  80,812 

19,658 

London  Missionary  Society, 

65,138 

5,480 

Wesleyan  Mission  Society, 

3,591 

1,206 

Baptist  Mission  Society, 

9,'-94 

3,101 

Church  of  Scotland  Missions, 

2,621 

1,251 

United  Presbyterian  Missions,  . 

773 

334 

Irish  Presbyterian  Missions, 

1,852 

248 

Welsh  Calvinistic  Methodists,  . 

. 2,763 

440 

Church  of  England, 

876 

261 

Others, 

1,611 

Total, 


262,771 


55,124. 


16 


t 


Continental. 

Natives. 

Communi- 

cants. 

Basle  Missionary  Society, 

7,898 

3,866 

India  Home  Mission  to  the  Santals,  . 

. 3,<-02 

2,000 

Gosner’s  Missionary  Society, 

32,800 

10,812 

Leipsic  Lutheran  Society, 

. 12,272 

4,256 

Miscellaneous, 

905 

341 

Total, 

56,877 

21,275 

American. 

Natives. 

Communi- 

cants. 

Canadian  Baptists, 

1,818 

854 

American  Board,  . . . . 

4,209 

American  Episcopal  Methodist, 

. . 7,054 

3,089 

American  Presbyterian, 

. 2,403 

1,268 

American  Reformed  Dutch, 

5,285 

1,484 

American  Baptists 

22,509 

American  Lutheran, 8,695  2,663 

Miscellaneous 1,583  850 


Total, 

97,724 

36,926 

Grand  Total, 

417,372 

113,325 

/ 

Roman  Catholics, 

1,088,309 

CHAPTER  II. 

BOMBAY. 

The  English  obtained  in  1613,  from  the  Emperor 
Jahangir,  their  first  charter  enabling  them  to  start 
a factory  in  that  city,  and  Bombay  Island  was  ceded  to 
the  English  crown  in  1661  as  part  of  the  dower  of  the 
Infanta  Catharine  on  her  marriage  to  Charles  II.  In 
1668  the  King  handed  over  this  unprofitable  acquisi- 
tion to  the  newly  formed  East  India  Company  for  a 
small  annual  payment.  For  more  than  a century  the 
position  of  the  English  at  Bombay  was  that  only  of 
traders  who  had  successfully  infringed  the  monopoly 
of  the  Portuguese  and  Dutch,  but  were  effectually 
hemmed  in  on  the  landward  side  by  the  Marathas. 


17 


In  1817  the  battle  of  Kirkee  terminated  the  Peshaas 
rule,  and  the  Bombay  Presidency  was  augmented  by 
the  greater  part  of  its  present  territory.  Parsis,  de- 
scendants of  the  old  fire  worshippers  of  Persia,  victims 
of  Moslem  intolerance,  migrated  to  India  in  the 
seventh  century.  They  are  noted  for  their  intelligence 
and  wealth  and  commercial  and  social  infiuence,  the 
most  Europeanized  of  all  native  communities  in  India. 
Freedom  from  caste  hindrances  has  given  them  many 
advantages.  They  have  taken  the  lead  in  education. 
The  religion  of  the  Parsees  has  superseded  Buddhism  in 
many  places.  The  wonder  of  their  religion  is  in  the 
beauty  of  their  temples  with  which,  in  the  eleventh 
century,  they  adorned  all  their  sacred  sites  in  Guze- 
rat.  They  have  many  points  of  belief  in  common  with 
the  Buddhists.  Like  the  Buddhists  they  are  strictly 
Atheists,  believing  in  no  Supreme  Ruler.  As  their 
name  implies  they  are  followers  of  the  Iran,  vanquish- 
ers of  vice  and  virtue,  men  whom  they  believe  to  have 
obtained  Nirvana,  or  emancipation  from  the  power  of 
transmigration. 

The  location  of  Bombay  is  remarkable.  It  was 
formerly  one  of  a group  of  islands  off  the  Koukan 
coast,  but  was  long  ago  connected  by  causeways  and 
breakwaters  with  the  Island  of  Salsette,  and  so  con- 
tinuously with  the  mainland.  It  is  the  queen  city  of 
the  East  in  the  beauty  of  its  surroundings  and  the 
wealthiest  through  its  commercial  advantages.  The 
approach  from  the  sea  is  really  magnificent.  The  sky 
line  is  marked  and  vision  is  limited  by  the  Western 
Ghautts.  Bombay  is  entered  through  one  of  the  finest 
harbors  in  the  world,  studded  with  islands  and  jutting 
precipices,  whose  adornment  is  in  the  sails  and  flags 
on  the  ships  of  all  nations.  It  is  a wonder  in  the 


13 


varieties  of  language,  habits  and  costumes  of  its  peo- 
ples. It  is  the  most  remarkable  Eastern  city  in  its 
educational  advantages.  Its  political  and  social  ac- 
tivities have  been  equally  great.  The  district  covers 
an  area  of  5,940  square  miles,  with  a population  of 
781,206.  In  connection  with  its  many  missions  and 
schools  for  the  neglected  it  will  be  of  interest  to  our 
readers  to  know’  w’here  the  men  came  from  who  fol- 
lowed Livingstone  through  Africa  and  watched  him 
in  his  last  prayer,  who  carried  his  remains  seven 
months  through  marshes  and  rivers  and  over  mountains 
until  they  brought  the  precious  treasure  safe  to  AVest- 
minster  Abbey.  Jacob  Wainright  and  his  companions 
w’ere  reared  and  educated  in  the  African  Asylum  in 
Bombay,  which  w’as  started  in  1853  for  the  reception 
and  training  of  liberated  slaves,  since  transferred  to 
Sahrunpore,  w^here  it  continued  until  the  government 
changed  its  disposition  of  these  slaves.  Tw’o  hundred 
of  these  were  educated,  many  returning  to  Eastern 
Africa  to  join  the  Christian  settlement  at  Ereetowm. 

In  the  Presidency  is  the  Marathi  mission  of  the 
American  Board,  inaugurated  in  1813,  and  laboring 
in  Bombay.  The  Established  Church  of  Scotland  in 
Bombay  began  in  1825.  The  Free  Church  mission, 
founded  by  Dr.  Wilson  and  his  colleagues  at  the  time 
of  the  Disruption,  is  carrying  on  operations  here. 
Poonah  Nagpur,  Basle,  German  Mission  Society ; Irish. 
Presbyterian  mission  at  Guzerat,  south-east  of  Lahore ; 
American  Methodist  at  Bombay,  Poonah,  Boroda, 
Ahmedabad ; American  Presbyterian  Board  at  Kala- 
pore. 

NATIVE  RELIGIOUS  REFORMERS.' 

The  Yaishnaves  lay  stress  on  faith,  w’hile  the  Saivas 
rely  on  works.  Chaitanya,  from  1485  to  1527, 


19 


preached  the  sufficiency  of  faith  without  works,  and 
it  is  a strange  coincidence  that  he  did  so  in  India 
while  Luther  was  doing  the  same  in  Europe.  But 
the  result  was  in  the  backing.  Luther  had  the  inspired 
Word  of  God  to  guide  him,  and  his  faith  being  in  a 
holy  and  loving  Saviour  produced  love  and  holiness 
of  life.  Chaitanya  spent  his  life  in  ejaculations,  and 
his  doctrines  were  nullified  by  the  excesses  of  his  fol- 
lowers. Still  more  famous  was  Nanach,  the  founder 
of  the  Sikh  sect,  who  endeavored  to  combine  the  best . 
features  of  Mohammedanism  and  Hinduism.  The 
most  recent  and  remarkable  is  that  known  as  the 
Brahmo  Somaj.  As  Sikhism  is  midway  between  Hin- 
duism and  Mohammedanism,  so  Brahmoism  is  midway 
between  Hinduism  and  Christianity,  and  is  the  result 
of  English  teachings  and  life.  Its  founder  was 
Ramonohun  Roy,  a man  of  the  highest  talents,  who 
died  while  on  a visit  to  England  in  1883.  He  made 
selections  of  what  he  thought  best  in  the  Vedas  and 
the  Christian  Scriptures,  and  framed  out  of  them  a 
kind  of  Unitarianism.  His  successor,  Debendra  Nath 
Tagore,  receded  from  this  position  and  followed  the 
Vedas  only.  In  1865  the  Society  split,  the  old  Presi- 
dent and  his  disciples  calling  themselves  the  original 
Somaj,  while  the  progressive  party  followed  the  younger 
leader,  the  well-known  Keshub  Chunder  Sen.  For  a 
time  the  progressists  seemed  to  lead  and  to  be  near  the 
kingdom  of  heaven.  They  called  themselves  a Church, 
adopted  Christian  terms,  such  as  justification,  sanctifi- 
cation, regeneration,  &c.,  and  in  a wonderful  lecture, 
delivered  in  Calcutta  in  1866,  on  “Jesus  Christ, 
Europe  and  Asia,”  in  glowing  speech  he  enlarged 
upon  the  greatness  of  Christ  and  his  crucifixion,  until 
the  hopes  of  Indian  Christendom  were  uplifted.  But 


20 


he  stopped  here,  and  not  to  progress  is  to  go  back, 
which  he  did,  and  the  next  heard  of  him  is  that  he  is 
placing  Jesus  Christ  on  a level  with  Mohammed, 
Nanach,  Chaitanya  and  others  of  like  stamp. 

His  system  was  only  a blown  bubble  with  the  re- 
flection of  Christianity  upon  it.  He  had  no  true 
sense  of  sin  and  his  salvation  was  only  a luxury,  not 
a medicine,  not  a life.  Ho  lost  hold  on  many  who  saw 
nothing  in  him  or  his  system.  In  1877  many  op- 
posers  found  fault  with  him  for  giving  a daughter 
under  fourteen  years  of  years  in  marriage  to  an  Hindu 
(not  a Brahmo)  under  sixteen,  in  contradiction  of 
his  own  solemn  teachings,  and  many  of  his  ablest 
followers  seceded,  led  by  Babu  A.  M.  Bose,  M.A., 
a Cambridge  wrangler,  who  formed  another  Society 
called  the  Sadharon  Constitutional  Brahma  Samja. 
In  1881  Keshub  made  another  departure  with  sacra- 
ments and  liturgical  worship,  in  strange  imitation  of 
Christianity.  In  January,  1884,  he  died.  The  system 
has  adherents  in  the  principal  towns  in  India  among 
the  educated  natives,  who  have  abjured  Hinduism, 
but  have  not  espoused  Christianity.  The  native  re- 
ligions are  the  fruits  of  human  intellect,  they  have 
done  their  best,  but  they  have  all  miserably  failed, 
and  it  seems  as  if  all  possible  human  conceits  have 
been  exhausted  now.  As  a learned  and  venerable 
Hindu  has  remarked,  “ Hinduism  is  sick  unto  death.” 


CHAPTER  III. 


THE  BEAUTIES  AND  FASCINATIONS  OF  B03IBAT. 

AS  one  stands  on  the  Apollo  Bunder  and  looks 
out  on  the  expanse  of  the  splendid  harbor 
novel  sights  intrude  and  command  thought  and  ad- 
miration. The  coast  line  is  backed  by  scalloped-shaped 
mountains  running  in  waving,  graceful  lines,  in  several 
places  shooting  up  into  shapes  of  domes  and  towers. 
The  homes  of  shaggy  and  rugged  mountains  have 
been  left  behind  in  the  west.  In  this  harbor  variety 
crowns  all,  an(i  beauty  and  variety  are  always  twins. 
There  are  conical-shaped  islands  towering  far  above 
the  level  of  the  w'ater  surfaces,  clothed  in  brown 
speckled  with  green,  and  adorned  by  the  peerless 
palms,  which  toss  their  waving . plumes  in  the  misty 
air.  These  islands  vary  in  size,  some  being  no  more 
than  abiding  monuments  to  the  upheavals  of  the 
earth’s  crust  and  the  erosions  of  storms  and  waves. 
Others  are  utilized  and  are  used  as  places  of  hospitals, 
or  for  sheltering  and  unloading  ships,  and  others 
for  the  habitation  of  men.  Across  the  bay  is  an 
island  with  a mountain  crest  along  whose  base  are 
the  humble  habitations  of  men,  and  under  whose 
luxuriant  and  tangled  foliage  are  the  abodes  of  ser- 
pents and  wild  beasts ; a place  of  enchanting  beauty, 
fragrant  with  the  odors  of  choice  flowers  and  match- 
less in  beauty  of  color.  On  this  island,  six  miles 
across  the  bay  from  the  city,  is  Garapuri,  “ town  of 
purification,”  or  Garapuri,  “town  of  excavation,” 
called  Elephanta  first  b}-  the  Portuguese.  This  was 

21 


22 


suggested  oy  the  appearance  of  a huge  rock-cut 
elephant,  which  stood  on  a knoll  a little  east  of  the 
ancient  village  of  Garapuri. 

Crossing  this  bay  we  found  the  heat  even  under  cover 
to  be  frightful,  only  the  movement  of  the  air  by  the  tug 
made  it  bearable.  The  vessel  was  landed  at  the  end 
of  a pier  built  of  concrete  blocks  about  ten  feet 
wide  and  from  ten  to  twelve  high,  running  out  into 
the  bay  several  hundred  yards  to  a place  where  boats 
can  land  at  ebb  tide.  After  this  a flight  of  stone  steps 
is  reached,  leading  up  the  face  of  a terrace,  which 
brings  before  the  vision  a panorama,  the  grandeur  of 
which  must  beget  a succession  of  sensations  which 
can  never  adequately  voice  themselves  to  the  under- 
standing of  any  other  mind.  From  this  the  moun- 
tain is  ascended  by  a series  of  stone  steps  eight 
feet  wide  with  a parapet  wall  at  each  end ; each  of 
the  series  of  steps  is  a gradually  upward  inclined 
plain  by  which,  alternately  with  the  steps,  a mountain 
of  four  hundred  feet  perpendicular  elevation  is 
scaled.  But  the  beauties  of  the  way  abstracted  all 
distress  from  the  stifling  heat.  Luxuriant  vines  with 
swaying  branches  hung  upon  the  wide  spreading  arms 
of  the  banyan  trees,  arching  the  way  and  giving  shade 
and  beauty  to  the  eye.  All  along  were  rhododen- 
drons in  magniflcent  proportions,  oleanders  ten  feet 
high,  and  other  growths  of  the  tropics  for  which  we 
have  no  names.  Rising  out  of  these  clusters  are  the 
stately  palms  in  their  native  places,  the  most  beautiful 
and  graceful  trees  in  the  world.  The  trunks  are  not 
often  more  than  six  or  seven  inches  in  diameter ; they 
rise  from  sixty  to  ninety  feet,  growing  gently  larger 
as  they  near  the  top,  out  of  which,  as  from  a capital 
on  a graceful  column,  spring  the  feather-like  branches 


23 


fifteen  to  twenty  feet  long,  waving  to  the  gentlest 
zephyrs.  These  palms  are  beautiful,  but  not  alike  an 
unmixed  blessing;  some  of  them  bear  the  luscious 
milkful  cocoanut,  so  nutritious  and  luxurious;  others 
are  tapped  at  the  top  and  give  a milk  which  in  a day 
is  charged  with  alcohol  and  is  maddening  in  its  effects, 
more  intoxicating  from  the  fermentation  of  a few"  days 
than  ordinary  grain  whiskey.  The  intoxicant  is  gath- 
ered by  tapping  just  under  the  boughs,  and  jars  are 
suspended  to  receive  it.  It  is  not  an  easy  thing  to 
reach  them  suspended  to  a limbless  trunk,  often  eighty 
feet  high  and  six  or  seven  inches  in  diameter. 

But  ingenuity  in  the  service  of  strong  drink  over- 
comes all  physical  resistances;  little  notches  are 
hacked  into  the  bodies  of  the  trees,  into  which  this 
most  nimble  people  in  the  w'orld  plant  their  toes  and 
ascend  or  descend  more  quickly  than  an  European 
over  a ladder.  They  go  up  w"ith  the  nimbleness  and 
agility  of  cats.  Monkeys  have  found  the  qualities  of 
this  fermented  milk  and  have  been  known  to  get  glor- 
iously drunk  on  it,  and  then  their  drunken  pranks 
make  men  appreciate  how  uncomfortably  alike  man 
and  the  monkey  are,  not  by  the  monkey’s  coming  up  to 
the  man,  but  by  the  man’s  drunken  descent  to  the  mon- 
key. In  this  country,  w^here  the  doctrine  of  the  trans- 
migration of  souls  is  written  on  all  things,  the  most 
natural  and  plausible  phase  of  it  is  that  the  souls  of 
men  degraded  in  the  past  appear  again  in  the  baboon. 
The  monkey  when  drunk  wall  convince  the  most  scep- 
tical that  he  is  a “ played-out  man.” 

On  this  island  are  birds  of  every  plume  and  song, 
eagles,  peacocks  w"ith  out-spread  feathered  glories, 
serpents  of  every  form  and  fang.  Here  reign  the 
most  active  and  beneficent  forms  of  life ; here  death 


24 


watches  to  destroy  life  in  its  highest  strength,  joy  and 
beauty.  As  the  top  of  the  mountain  is  reached  a 
great  ravine  appears,  the  soil  and  rocks  cut  down 
together  until  a level  area  of  two  hundred  feet  square 
is  reached,  from  which  the  excavations  are  made  for 
the  wonderful  rock  temples,  which  will  be  described 
sufficiently  to  give  a general  idea  of  its  proportions 
and  grandeur.  An  idea  can  be  formed  in  the  fact 
that  at  the  start  there  is  a perpendicular  face  of  solid 
trap  rock,  without  seam  or  lamination,  rising  about 
sixty  feet  from  the  platform  gained  by  cutting  into 
the  hill.  In  this  solid  trap  rock  the  temple  has  been 
made  by  human  hands  alone.  It  is  the  work  of  the 
sledge,  mallet  and  chisel,  and  has  cost  as  much  labor 
as  the  building  of  the  Pyramids  of  Egypt,  and  is  in 
many  respects  a greater  wonder  of  the  sacrifice  of 
mind,  muscle  and  perseverence.  The  temple  consists 
of  two  parts,  a central  hall  about  ninety  feet  square, 
four  aisles  or  vestibules,  each  sixteen  feet  high  and 
fifty-four  feet  long.  The  roof  which. bears  the  top  of 
the  mountain  up,  not  less  than  one  hundred  perpen- 
dicular feet  of  rock  and  clay,  is  supported  on  twenty- 
six  pillars,  eight  of  them  now  broken,  and  sixteen 
pilasters.  These  have  been  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock,  as 
have  been  all  the  chambers  and  images.  The  columns 
that  sustain  the  weight  of  the  mountain  are  exquisitely 
wrought  into  flutings  and  figures,  and  as  the  rock  roof 
is  not  entirely  level  the  columns  are  from  fifteen  to 
seventeen  feet  high,  round,  fluted,  octagonal,  j)lain 
and  square,  two  and  a half  or  more  feet  at  the  lower 
end,  resting  on  a wider  base  three  feet  square. 

Entering  the  chamber  its  object  is  made  apparent  as 
a place  of  worship  by  the  colossal  three-headed  bust  on 
the  south  wall.'  This  colossal  form  reaches  the  full 


25 


height  of  the  chamber,  fifteen  feet,  and  is  cut  from  the 
same  dark  trap  rock,  as  hard  as  the  hardest  flag  stones 
from  the  Hudson,  used  for  pavements  in  the  United 
States.  This  bust  represents  Shiv,  or  Siva,  who  is  the 
leading  character  in  all  the  groups  in  this  rock-hewn 
temple.  The  front  face  is  Shiv  in  the  character  of 
Brahma,  the  creator ; the  east  face  is  Shiv  in  the  charac- 
ter of  Rudra,  the  destroyer  ; the  face  on  the  west  side 
is  that  of  Shiv  in  the  character  of  Vishnu,  the  pre- 
server ; the  face  in  the  centre  is  gentle  and  reposeful. 
In  the  hand  of  Brahma  is  a citron,  an  emblem  of  the 
womb,  the  productive  organ  of  all  life.  Brahma’s 
right  hand  has  been  smitten  off  by  a vandal,  the 
breast  is  adorned  by  imitations,  cut  in  the  hard  stone, 
of  a necklace  of  pearls,  and  below  it  is  a richly 
wrought  breast  ornament,  whose  lower  border  is  fes- 
tooned with  imitations  of  pearls.  The  head  dress  is 
in  the  form  of  the  dome  curl  style,  on  the  top  of  which 
is  a royal  tiara  exquisitely  carved.  The  face  of  Shiv 
as  Rudra,  or  the  destroyer,  has  upon  the  brow  a round 
output,  above  the  nose,  of  carbuncle  style,  represent- 
ing a third  eye.  The  face  is  hard,  its  muscles  drawn 
into  determination  and  Roman  in  expression.  He  is 
smiling  at  a cobra,  which  is  twisted  round  his  arms, 
and  with  outstretched  hood  looks  into  his  eye.  He  is 
ornamented  with  the  peculiar  symbols  of  Shiv,  a human 
skull  over  the  temple,  a leaf  of  the  glorioso  suburba,  or  a 
branch'  of  the  milk  bush.  His  hair  is  made  of  twisted 
snakes  ending  in  the  central  figure  of  a cobra  in 
wrathful  attitude  and  expanded  hood. 

The  other  figure  said  to  be  Shiv  in  the  character  of 
Vishnu,  the  preserver,  holding  a lotus  flower,  has  a 
face  gentle  and  serene.  At  the  door  are  other  rock- 
formed  figures ; Hindu  door-keepers  leaning  on  smaller 


26 


demons.  Ardhanareshvar  is  a compartment  or  one 
of  the  series  of  the  triumvira.  In  it  is  a gigantic 
four-armed,  half-male  and  half-female  figure  repre- 
senting Ardhanareshvar,  that  is,  the  God  which  com- 
bines the  active  or  manlike,  and  Shiv,  the  passive  or 
womanlike  principles  in  nature.  This  figure,  sixteen 
feet  and  nine  inches  high,  leans  to  the  right,  or 
male  side,  and  rests  on  the  bull  Nandi  with  one  of  its 
forearms.  The  right  side  has  a crescent,  which,  to- 
gether with  the  cobra  wfith  its  outstretched  hood,  was 
a symbol  of  the  Ling  w^orship.  Each  arms  holds  a 
mirror.  On  the  right  of  the  figure  is  Brahma  on  his 
lotus  throne,  supported  by  five  servants,  and  his  five 
faces  are  visible.  Near  to  Shiv  is  Indra,  Lord  of  the 
firmament,  riding  on  his  heavenly  elephant.  In  his 
left  hand  he  carries  the  thunderbolt.  On  the  other 
side  of  Shiv  Vishnu  is  seen  ridmg  on  his  carrier, 
half-man  and  half-eagle,  called  Garud. 

In  another  department  are  two  gigantic  figures  of 
Shiv  and  Parvati.  Shiv  has  a high  cap,  on  which 
are  sculptured  the  crescent  and  other  emblems,  and 
from  it  rises  a cup  or  shell  in  which  is  a singular 
three-headed  female  figure  representing  the  three 
sacred  rivers,  Ganges,  Jumna  and  Saresvati.  Accord- 
ing to  Hindu  legend  the  Ganges  flowed  from  the  head 
of  Shiv.  On  the  left  of  Shiv  is  Parvati  in  graceful 
attitude ; on  his  right  are  Brahma  and  Indra ; on 
Parvati’s  left  Vishnu  on  Garud.  The  most  sacred 
object  in  this  temple  is,  as  usual,  the  most  indecent. 
It  is  the  Ling  shrine,  the  most  adored  and  most  wor- 
shipped. It  is  a large  stone  representation  of  the 
prolific  part  of  the  male.  There  is  in  another  cham- 
ber of  this  temple,  on  the  western  aisle,  a symbolical 
group,  cut  from  the  same  hard  stone  out  of  which  the 


27 


temple  and  its  belongings  have  been  chiselled,  the  re- 
presentation of  the  marriage  of  Shiv  and  Parvati. 
The  figure  of  Parvati  is  one  of  the  most  symmetrical  in 
proportion  in  the  whole  temple.  Facing  this  marriage 
scene  is  one  of  the  most  remarkable  of  all  the  sculp- 
tures. The  main  figure  represents  Shiv  in  the  terrible 
form  assumed  when  he  heard  from  his  first  wife,  Sita, 
that  he  was  not  invited  to  a sacrifice  given  by  her 
father.  The  face  is  marked  by  succeeding  flashes  of 
passion,  and  across  the  left  shoulder  and  down  on  the 
thigh  hangs  a rosary  of  human  heads. 

In  another  chamber  may  be  seen  the  sculptured 
forms  of  Shiv  and  Parvati  seated  together,  surrounded 
with  groups  of  male  and  female  divinities  showering 
down  flowers  from  above.  The  rock  is  cut  into  vari- 
ous shapes  to  represent  the  clouds  that  rest  on  the 
summits  of  Karlas.  Back  from  the  sculptured  forms 
of  Shiv  and  Parvati  is  a maternal  figure  of  a w’oman 
carrying  her  babe  on  her  hip,  a custom  still  universal 
in  India.  This  infant  is  believed  to  be  the  born  Gun- 
puti,  afterwards  the  elephant-headed  God  of  'Wisdom, 

A little  beyond  is  the  chamber  in  which  is  a repre- 
sentation in  stone  of  the  attempt  of  Baven,  the  Demon 
King  of  Ceylon,  to  remove  Karlas,  the  heavenly 
mountain.  Raven  has  ten  heads  and  arms,  and  is 
with  his  back  to  the  spectator.  Shiv  with  eight  arms 
is  seen  by  Karlas  with  Parvati  on  his  right  and 
obsequious  votaries  in  the  back-ground.  This  is  a 
general  description,  it  would  be  only  tiresome  to  go 
into  further  particulars.  It  has  rightly  a place  among 
the  wonders  of  the  world,  having  cost  more  genius, 
time,  labor,  life  and  its  agonies  than  the  great  Pyra- 
mid, though  not  so  old,  and  its  purposes  are  better 
defined. 


28 


The  age  of  this  temple  cannot  be  traced.  It  was  hewn 
in  the  ^olid  trap  rock  of  the  mountain,  with  all  its  won- 
derful sculptured  forms  and  groups  cut,  as  the  cham- 
bers were  made,  out  of  the  same  material  as  it  stood  in 
the  rock,  whose  formation  in  time  God  only  knows. 
Its  history  goes  no  further  back  than  the  ninth 
century,  giving  the  temple  an  antiquity  of  about  one 
thousand  years.  The  greatest  vandalism  has  been 
perpetrated  here  by  both  the  Portuguese  and  Moham- 
medans. The  religion  of  the  latter  is  a blind  hate  of 
every  beautiful  form,  the  creation  of  human  genius,  as 
being  the  representation  of  something  divine.  There  are 
two  more  temples  on  the  island,  but  insignificant  com- 
pared with  this,  and  are  n»t  worth  the  labor  and  patience 
of  a description.  The  day  spent  in  this  temple  and 
its  surroundings  was  one  of  the  most  wearisome,  yet 
delightful,  in  India,  all  of  its  impressions  were  fresh 
and  overpowering;  here  both  nature  and  art  had 
done  their  sublimest  work,  the  combined  glories  of 
both  staggered  thought.  The  social  intercourse  of  the 
day  was.  delightful,  and  for  its  opportunities  we  were 
indebted  to  Captain  Millar,  of  the  “ Clan  Buchanon,” 
in  company  with  the  missionaries.  Rev.  Mr.  Abbott 
and  the  Misses  Millard  and  Lyman. 

There  are  other  rock-hewn  temples,  or,  as  now 
genererally  called,  caves,  about  Bombay,  that  lead 
us  back  to  companionships  with  those  of  more 
than  a thousand  years  gone  from  the  earth.  It 
is  a strangely  interesting  and  pensive  mode  of 
intercourse  with  the  forgotten  to  be  following  past 
life  through  its  tracings  on  the  stony  pages  of  earth’s 
structure.  About  fifteen  miles  distant  there  are  one 
hundred  and  nine  of  these  caverns  in  one  rock-built 
hill,  but  Furgusson  says  they  are  less  interesting,  at 


29 


Ajuntah,  Ellora  or  Karli.  Of  all  the  cave  temples 
known  Karli  is  the  largest  and  most  complete  hitherto 
discovered  in  India.  It  is  suggestive  of  a Christian 
church  in  its  shape  and  arrangements,  having  a nave 
and  side  aisles  terminating  in  an  apse  or  semi-dome, 
around  which  the  aisles  are  curved.  The  dimensions 
of  the  interior  are  one  hundred  and  tAventy-six  feet 
from  the  entrance  to  the  back  Avail,  by  forty-five  feet 
seven  inches  in  wddth.  The  side  aisles  are  not  so  aa  ide 
as  is  common  in  churches.  The  height  is  forty-two 
feet  from  the  floor  to  the  apex.  Fifteen  pillars  on 
each  side  separate  the  nave  from  the  aisles;  each  pil- 
lar has  a tall  base,  an  octagonal  shaft,  and  richly  or- 
namented capital,  on  AvFich  tAvo  elephants  are  in 
kneeling  attitude,  each  bearing  tAvo  figures,  generally 
a man  and  a Avoman,  but  sometimes  female  figures 
alone. 

The  sculptures  on  the  capital  supply  the  place 
usually  occupied  by  the  frieze  and  cornice  in  Grecian 
architecture.  Under  the  semi-dome  of  the  apse  and 
near  the  place  of  the  altar  in  Christian  churches  is 
placed  the  dagoba,  Avhich  in  this  place  is  a plain  dome, 
slightly  stiled  on  a circular  dome.  Opposite  the 
dagoba  is  an  entrance  and  three  doorways  under  a 
gallery,  over  Avhich  the  Avhole  end  of  the  chambers 
open,  forming  a great  AvindoAV  in  the  shape  of  a horse 
shoe,  through  Avhich  all  the  light  into  the  cave  temple 
is  admitted.  The  antiquity  of  this  Avork  is  doubtful, 
Avhether  older  than  the  great  Avork  of  Elephanta  can- 
not be  certainly  told,  although  there  appears  in  this 
last  some  features  Avhich  are  decidedly  Roman,  but 
Roman  architecture  is  itself  not  a creation  of  Italy, 
but  a modification,  adaptation  and  creation.  There 
is  no  doubt,  hoAvever,  that  this  Avork  is  nearly  one 
thousand  years  old. 


MALABAR  HILL  AND  THE  TOWERS  OF  SILENCE. 

' Cremation  is  too  old  in  India  to  excite  either  notice 
or  comment.  It  is  as  much  a part  of  their  system  as 
the  Lord’s  Prayer  is  of  the  Christian.  Following 
the  Queen’s  Road  in  Bombay,  where  on  all  sides 
the  eyes  are  feasted  with  nature’s  attractions,  sud- 
denly a dreary  wall  closes  up  one  side  of  the  way, 
over  w’hich  are  drifting  on  the  sluggish  breezes  clouds 
of  black,  pitchy  smoke  of  sickening  odors.  This  in- 
troduces one  to  the  primitive  cremations  of  the 
heathen  Hindus,  the  way  they  send  their  dead  to 
heaven  on  chariots  of  disgusting  smoke.  The  souls  of 
the  defunct  strike  out  for  better  tabernacles  or  pig  styes, 
according  to  their  several  predestinations.  The  burn- 
ing is  done  over  open  wood  fires  and  goes  on  con- 
stantly, and  is  a veritable  reproduction  of  Ghe- 
henna.  One  is  convinced  that  even  the  disposition  of 
" the  poor  relics  of  a diseased  and  worn-out  humanity  can 
be  rendered  more  tolerable  by  some  style,  and  while  its 
ways  in  Christian  countries  may  sometimes  be  expen- 
sive and  inconvenient  and  poverty  and  selfishness 
alike  cry,  “ Why  was  this  .waste?”  it  is  still  for 
the  moral  benefit  and  self-respect  of  the  race  that  it 
spends  its  money  for  decency.  Nature  abhors  even 
her  own  dissolving  elements  and  diverts  attention 
from  the  offensive  processes,  substituting  for  them  the 
attractiveness  of  life. 

Beyond  this  dismal  place  is  one  of  the  many  beau- 
tiful views  of  this  ever  changeful  country ; a great 
stretch  of  the  bay  invites  the  eye  and  admiration,  on 
which  is  now  being  erected  the  new  Free  Church  of 
Scotland’s  College,  a splendid  fabric,  to  which  the 
Indian  government  has  contributed  with  a liberal 
hand.  The  building  is  being  erected  under  its  super- 

30 


31 


vision.  It  is  of  stone  and  the  work  is  as  admirable 
as  art  can  make  it.  The  government  gave  the  ground 
at  a nominal  value  and  contributed  to  the  building, 
and  receives  the  money  of  the  Scotch  mission  obtained 
for  the  purpose,  and  when  completed  turns  it  over 
for  use.  Dr.  McKicken,  the  President,  is  an  accom- 
plished scholar  and  educator,  a genuine  Scotchman  in 
his  hearty  hospitality.  A half  day  was  spent  in  his 
delightful  society  at  his  home  and  in  visiting  his  sev- 
eral schools.  The  old  College  of  Dr.  Wilson  was  seen 
full  of  young  men  and  boys,  who  showed  good  pro- 
gress in  their  studies.  This  famous  old  College  is  to 
be  kept  for  a preparatory  school  -when  the  new  build- 
ing is  finished.  In  the  old  College  is  a portrait  of 
the  most  learned  and  beloved  man  of  his  time  in  India, 
whose  impress  is  still  upon  all  its  progressive  thought. 
The  President’s  compound  and  the  houses  on  it  are  to 
be  turned  into  a Female  Seminary,  a splendid  situa- 
tion, and  capable  of  development  into  any  form  which 
the  needs  of  the  growing  institution  shall  in  the  future 
require.  The  old  site  had  to  be  given  up  on  account 
of  the  encroachments  of  the  abominable  social  vices 
of  India,  and  the  Europeans  come  in  for  a large  share 
of  this  infamy.  The  entire  neighborhood  is  given 
over  to  this  unspeakable  degradation. 

When  the  ascent  of  Malabar  Hill  is  gained  the 
view  on  every  side  is  incomparable  in  qualities  that 
only  can  be  found  in  the  Orient.  The  West  furnishes 
nothing  even  suggesting  it,  nothing  as  a comparison 
— it  is  all  new  and  surprising.  The  Governor’s  house 
is  one  of  those  palace-like  Indian  houses,  so  filled  with 
the  outside  that  there  is  scarcely  any  inside,  it  being 
only  a slight  obstruction  to  all  “out-doors.”  The 
streets  are  narrow,  but  the  grounds  on  each  side  are 


enchanting,  and  in  the  midst,  grateful  to  the  sight  in 
a dry  and  thirsty  land,  is  the  sacred  pool  in  the  centre 
of  a vast  square  entirely  surrounded  by  temples,  one  of 
which  is  Walkeshwar  Temple,  one  of  the  most  sacred 
in  all  India.  There  are  steps  on  every  side  of  the 
pool  leading  up  twenty  perpendicular  feet.  Crowds 
of  Hindus,  male  and  female,  in  clothes  of  the  brightest 
colors  press  around  the  brink,  some  plunge  into  the 
lake,  others  besprinkle  themselves  with  the  sacred, 
fluid,  others  go  upon  their  knees  into  a state  of  con- 
templation, and  others  limber  up  into  the  devoutest- 
fervor. 

Beggary  is  the  principle  business  near  the  temple 
with  the  Brahmins.  The  fakir  is  on  duty  exhibiting 
his  dirt,  his  recommendation  as  an  heir  of  heaven;  a 
scaley  disciple  is  he,  with  an  arm  raised  aloft,  stiflened 
and  withered.  He  shakes  his  necklace  of  bones  and 
scorns  the  alms  which  he  has  begged.  Turning  from 
these  scenes,  varied  by  the  antics  of  disgusting 
humanity,  one  rises  to  the  crest  of  Malabar  Hill,  and 
within  vision  is  one  of  the  most  awe-inspiring  scenes  that 
the  world  aflbrds.  Below  is  the  indescribable  dreamy 
air,  in  which  are  the  waving  feathery  blades  of  a great 
grove  of  tall  and  graceful  palms  with  crowned  heads, 
the  born  aristocrats  of  the  Oriental  forests.  They  stand 
on  this  field  or  valley,  skirted  by  the  Crescent  Hill, 
straight  as  arrows,  from  sixty  to  one  hundred  feet 
high,  swaying  to  the  moving  breath  ctf  the  winds  as 
whip-stocks  bending  and  then  righting  themselves; 
bowing  to  the  earth  and  then  lifting  themselves  into 
majesty  in  the  serenest  skies.  But  here  again  sur- 
passing beauty  in  nature  and  the  dissolution  of  the 
tabernacles  of  a poor  humanity  contrast  with  each 
other. 


33 


From  the  eminence  of  a mountain,  looking  towards 
the  sunsetting,  are  seen  the  picturesque  Hills  of  the 
Mahratta  bathed  in  a purple  haze,  emeraids  arrayed 
in  fringes  of  florescent  beauty,  and  the  great  inlet  to 
the  sea  known  as  the  Harbor  of  Bombay.  But  to  re- 
mind us  of  our  impotence,  the  remnants  of  death 
are  gathered  together  here.  The  Towers  of  Silence 
are  reached.  Before  describing  this  strange  mode 
and  means  of  the  disposal  of  the  dead  it  will  be  neces- 
sary to  speak  of  the  origin,  history  and  customs  of  this 
remarkable  people  in  order  to  a clear  understanding 
of  this  institution,  peculiarly  their  own.  The  Parsees 
are  followers  of  Zoroaster,  who  were  driven  from  Per- 
sia, A.  D.  720,  by  an  Arab  invasion.  They  emigrated 
to  Guzerat  and  were  there  protected  by  the  Rajah. 
They  are  a great  commercial  people  and  number 
in  Bombay  Presidency  over  seventy-two  thousand, 
remarkable  for  ability  and  have  unlimited  credit. 
They  are  benevolent,  hospitable  and  scholarly,  and 
begging  is  unknown  among  them,  one  case  being  con- 
sidered a reproach  upon  the  whole  community.  In 
Bombay  they  have  about  forty  charitable  institutions. 
Polygamy  is  forbidden  except  when  no  children  are 
born,  or  in  case  of  infidelity  upon  the  part  of  the  wife. 
The  women  are  beautiful,  exquisitely  neat  in  person, 
and  the  wealthy  classes  richly  dressed  in  flowing 
Oriental  costumes  of  linen,  silk  and  gold.  They  are 
kindly  treated  and  are  hot  secluded  in  harems,  having 
many  social  privileges.  Their  widows  are  permitted 
to  marry. 

When  the  Parsee  rises  in  the  morning  he  says  his 
prayers  with  face  turned  toward  the  sun,  rubs  his  face 
with  the  urine  of  a cow  as  a speciflc  against  evil  spirits ; 
he  then  bathes  his  whole  person  and  dresses,  himself 


34 


in  clean  garments.  His  costume  is  a shirt  worn  next 
the  skin,  which  is  considered  sacred,  a vest  of  fine 
linen,  loose  trousers  of  cotton,  silk  or  satin,  and  a 
long  coat  reaching  to  the  knees,  which  is  bound  at  the 
waist  by  a silken  cord  which  encircles  it  three  times 
and  is  knotted  in  front.  A high,  wedge-shaped  hat, 
sometimes  of  shining  black  oil-cloth  and  sometimes 
speckled,  completes  the  costume  and  is  a distinguish- 
ing mark  of  the  Parsee.  They  are  fire  worshippers, 
and  the  sacred  flame  which  they  believe  Zoroaster 
brought  from  heaven  is  constantly  cherished  on  con- 
secrated altars.  Their  sacred  writings  are  contained 
in  the  Zend  Avesta.  Of  their  religion  there  are  two 
sects,  the  Shenshars  and  Kadmis,  diflbring  only  in 
chronology,  and  not  in  points  of  faith,  certain  festivals 
being  celebrated  on  diflbrent  days  by  the  two  sects. 
To  honor  the  dead  is  a religious  duty,  and  all  are  re- 
quired to  spend  the  last  ten  days  of  the  year  in  chari- 
table deeds  and  prayers  of  thanksgiving.  The  purity 
of  the  faith  has  been  somewhat  contaminated  by 
heathen  surroundings,  and  idolatrous  practices  have 
crept  in.  A Keform  Association  was  organized  in 
1852  for  the  purpose  of  restoring  the  pure  faith  of 
Zoroaster. 

The  priestly  ofiSce  is  hereditary,  though  not  obliga- 
tory upon  the  sons  of  priests.  The  priests  are  ignor- 
ant, though  they  can  repeat  the  Zend,  but  active 
measures  are  now  being  used  to  educate  and  elevate 
them.  The  Parsees  are  eager  for  English  manners, 
customs  and  education.  It  is  their  boast  that  an 
abandoned  Parsee  woman  is  not  known.  As  they 
reverence  fire  they  do  not  smoke,  and  never  indulge 
in  expectoration,  as  it  is  also  a religious  principle 
never  to  defile  the  works  of  God,  earth,  air,  water  or 


35 


fire.  They  have  used  finger  bowls  at  meals  for  sev- 
eral thousand  years.  A Parsee  must  be  born  on  the 
ground  floor  of  the  house,  as  one  of  the  first  principles 
of  the  faith  is  humility.  At  his  death  the  body  is 
carried  to  the  ground  floor  where  he  was  born.  It  is 
washed,  sprinkled  with  perfumes,  robed  in  clean  white 
garments  and  laid  upon  a bier.  A dog  is  brought  in, 
whose  last  look  at  his  master’s  face  is  supposed  to 
drive  away  evil  spirits.  Prayers  are  said  and  his 
male  friends  pay  their  respects  to  the  departed.  He 
is  then  carried  out  and  given  to  the  hands  of  four 
pall-bearers,  who  have  washed  themselves  and  put  on 
clean  white  garments.  A procession  follows  to  the 
fire  sanctuary  at  the  grounds  which  enclose  the 
Towers  of  Silence.  Prayers  are  ofiered,  after  which 
the  body  is  delivered  to  the  attendants,  who  place  it 
in  the  Towers. 

The  Towers  are  located  on  Malabar  Hill,  ap- 
proached by  a fine  road  walled  with  cut  stone.  The 
banks  of  the  Hill  into  which  the  carriage-way  is  cut  are 
braced  by  stone  work  to  keep  them  from  sliding  down. 
The  highway  of  the  dead  is  fringed  with  palms,  banyans 
and  other  trees  of  almost  endless  varieties  which 
this  luxuriant  land  aftords,  while  the  paths  from  both 
glory  and  obscurity  to  the  grave  are  brilliant  and 
fragrant  with  ever  blooming  flowers.  The  ugliness 
of  the  monster  death  is  modified  or  taken  away.  The 
grounds  are  entered  through  an  imposing  gateway, 
and  the  road  up  to  the  strange  and  silent  Towers 
winds  about  through  the  crowning  peaks,  and  through 
gardens  of  the  choicest  of  earth’s  beauties.  No 
botanical  garden  in  America  can  reveal  such  variety, 
luxuriance  and  attractive  display.  Flitting  shadows 
constantly  move  across  the  pathway,  and  one  will  in- 


36 


stinctively  look  up  for  the  cause  of  even  a passing 
cloud  on  all  this  beauty,  and  in  so  doing  will  see  how 
strangely  allied  ugliness  and  supreme  beauty  can  be 
in  this  vicissitudinous  world.  These  shadows  fall 
from  the  bodies  and  wings  of  vultures,  to  whose  horrid 
feasts  this  entrancing  scene  belongs.  They  are  kings 
in  these  gardens  of  beauty  and  terror.  They  are  so 
well  fed  in  this  empire  of  their  own  that  they  attain 
enormous  proportions.  They  utter  a w’eird  note,  not 
unmusical  in  itself,  but  startling  in  the  place  of  its 
echoes,  and  w’hich  seems  to  challenge  the  presence  of 
the  living  among  the  Towers  consecrated  to  the  dis- 
memberment of  the  dead.  The  mode  of  disposal  of 
the  dead  by  giving  them  to  the  vultures  is  the  result 
of  the  strange  Oriental  philosophy  which  has  saturated 
all  thought  on  this  subject.  It  is  the  doctrine  of  the 
transmigration  both  of  the  soul  and  the  matter  of  the 
body  of  man.  It  is  Protean  in  the  Eastern  mind  and 
worked  into  every  conceivable  form  of  religious 
thought.  Giving  the  body  to  the  vultures  is  an  effort 
to  realize  the  idea  that  matter  itself  is  always  in  vital 
existence  and  relations.  The  dead  are  immediately 
devoured,  and  the  vulture,  a more  dignified  creature 
and  nearer  man’s  size  than  the  worm,  gives  his  body 
its  first  vital  movement  in  another  form.  So  the 
dead  have  their  first  ride  through  the  heavens  in  the 
maw  of  the  vulture ; as  in  cremation  the  substances  of 
the  body  are  liberated  and  set  in  motion  and  rise  by 
fire. 

The  trees  and  walks  are  covered  with  the  foul  crea- 
tures, with  eyes  set  downward  in  funeral  attitude,  as 
if  conscious  of  the  professional  solemnities\  of  the  un- 
dertaker, tender,  trusty  and  tl-ue,”  saying  to  the  in- 
truders in  mournful  notes,  “ Go  softly  and  don’t  dis- 


37 


turb  the  solemnities  of  the  occasion.”  They  were 
uncommonly  lugubrious  on  the  morning  of  our  visit, 
no  corpses  had  yet  come  in  and  our  movements 
were  too  lively  to  be  assuring;  tears  could  be  im- 
agined in  their  eyes,  glistening  in  the  morning  sun- 
light, because  they  had  not  yet  received  their 
Parsee  breakfast.  They  were  in  a great  state  of 
expectation,  for  about  a mile  distant  in  the  valley 
the  skies  / were  black  with  the  moving  concourse  of 
their  fellows,  for  a corpse  was  coming,  borne  on 
the  shoulders  of  men.  They  knew  it  and  had  gone 
out  to  meet  it,  and  were  hovering  about  giving  a 
gracious  reception.  These  Towers,  as  they  are  called, 
are  circular  stone  walls,  the  largest  is  about  two  hun- 
dred feet  in  diameter,  about  twenty-five  feet  high,  fin  • 
ished  with  the  notched  battlements  known  by  the  desig- 
nation of  the  “AYalls  of  Troy.”  About  ten  feet  from 
the  top  is  a floor  of  iron  grating,  through  f he  openings, 
of  which  the  bones  may  fall  into  a receptacle  below.. 
On  these  gratings  the  bodies  are  exposed  to  the  darki 
winged  sextons.  The  blood  is  conducted  off  by  little: 
gutters  and  not  allowed  to  mingle  with  that  of  others. 
There  is  an  opening  in  the  walls  through  which  the 
corpse  is  taken.  At  the  head  of  the  stairs  leading  to 
a platform  stands  the  priest,  who  has  had  a funeral 
service  in  a little  chapel  near  by;  at  the  foot  of  these 
steps  the  friends  part  from  the  remains.  The  buz- 
zards by  their  impatience  are  in  favor  of  short  fare- 
wells. The  backs  of  the  mourners  are  no  more  than 
turned  when  they’^^e  holding  high  carnival  with 
delight,  and  screaming  in  contest  with  each  other.  In 
a few  minutes  every  particle  of  flesh  is  stripped  from 
the  body,  and  after  a few  days  the  bone  gatherers 
come  and  inspect  their  work.  They  collect  the  bones 


38 


from  off  the  grated  floor  and  put  them  in  a central 
well.  There  are  in  this  walled  enclosure  one  large 
tower  and  two  smaller  ones.  These  are  multiplied 
according  as  necessities  require.  In  every  tower  are 
separate  rows  for  men,  women  and  children. 

CHAPTER  IV. 

3IISSION  WORK  AND  PROGRESS  IN  BOMBAY. 

The  first  missionary  work  done  in  Bombay  was 
by  devoted  chapkins  of  the  English  army, 
whose  efforts  and  disappointments  have  been  referred 
to  in  the  first  chapter  of  the  outline  history  of  India. 
The  most  successful  work  during  seventy  years  of  mis- 
sionary endeavor  in  India  has  been  done  by  the  Ameri- 
can Board  of  Commissioners  for  Foreign  Missions.  The 
pioneers  of  this  Board  encountered  bitter  opposition 
from  the  first,  being  driven  from  Calcutta  by  the  East 
India  Company  in  1812.  This  apparent  misfortune 
laid  the  foundation  of  the  great  movement  in  parts 
adjacent.  The  names  of  these  workers,  Rev.  Gordon 
Hall  and  Samuel  Nott,  will  ever  linger  about  the  altars 
of  our  faith,  sanctifying  its  sacrifices  and  conquests. 
They  were  ordered  away  from  Bombay  also,  but  after 
suffering  much  and  having  procured  their  passage 
to  England  the  heirt  of  the  Governor,  Sir  Even 
Nepean,  relented,  and  permission  was  given  them  to 
work  on  December  21st,  1813.  They  showed  their 
gratitude  by  their  earnestness.  In  1815  Rev.  H. 
Bard  well  gave  himself  to  the  publication  work;  but 
within  three  years  all  these  laborers  were  dead  or 
driven  from  the  field  by  disease.  The  Rev.  Mr.  Hall 
became  the  next  pillar  of  support,  who  not  only  taught 
and  preached,  but  translated  the  Scriptures  and  tracts 
in  Marathi,  but  he  also  fell  at  his  post  of  cholera. 


39 


In  1831  Ahmednuggur  was  occupied  by  Messrs. 
Graves,  Read* and  Hervey  as  an  inland  station,  little 
dreaming  of  the  importance  this  station  would  assume 
in  the  future.  It  is  now  one  of  the  most  vital  centres  in 
the  movements  of  Christianity  in  all  India,  the  seat 
of  the  Board’s  greatest  schools,  Colleges  and  Theo- 
logical Seminary  and  strongest  churches.  It  is 
the  heart  to  the  whole  missionary  system.  The 
native  missionaries  are  usually  converted,  educated 
and  inspired  for  their  work  here.  They  had  in  these 
schools,  at  the  first,  native  Pundits,  but  wrought  con- 
stantly toward  the  point  where  they  should  have  only 
Christian  teachers,  and  for  twenty-fi"e  years  only 
Christian  teachers  have  imparted  instruction,  religious 
and  secular.  It  was  in  this  inland  station  that  Miss 
Farrar  gained  name  and  fame  by  her  ability  and 
devotion,  during  thirty-five  years  service,  in  organiz- 
ing and  conducting  girls’  schools,  and  by  her  untiring 
zeal  hundreds,  perha2)S  reaching  into  thousands,  of 
these  female  scholars  were  brought  into  the  kingdom 
of  Christ.  In  the  school  for  Christian  girls  in  Ahmed- 
nuggur over  one  hundred  and  fifty  pupils  a year  have 
been  sheltered,  fed  and  taught  for  years.  In  the  sixty 
schools  of  the  mission  about  twelve  hundred  scholars 
have  been  in  yearly  attendance. 

The  mission  in  Bombay  is  loeated  in  the  Byculla 
district  and  consists  of  schools,  publishing  department, 
a home  for  girls  and  a church.  The  Rev.  E.  S. 
Hume  is  in  charge  of  this  mission.  The  schools  are 
located  on  the  property  (in  India  called  a compound), 
in  which  is  the  house  of  the  missionary.  It  is  a credit 
to  the  Board  that  it  has  provided  so  well  for  the 
health  and  comfort  of  its  missionaries.  There  is  a 
school  for  boys,  into  which  we  had  access  through  the 


40 


solicitations  of  these  cultivated,  hospitable  repre- 
sentatives of  a great  Church.  The  boys  are  orderly 
and  studious  to  a remarkable  degree,  considering 
the  enervating  character  of  the  climate  most  of 
the  year.  The  schools  have  an  arrangement  with 
the  government  by  Avhich  the  scholars  attaining  the 
required  grade  of  the  government  schools  receive  a 
proportion  of  its  educational  funds.  This  is  a common 
arrangement  in  all  the  mission  schools  in  India.  The 
grant  earned  by  this  mission  school  through  the  govern- 
ment examination  was  forty  per  cent,  of  enlargement 
over  previous  years,  and  the  moral  'condition  is  in- 
dicated in  the  fact  that  ten  of  the  pupils  have  entered 
the  Church.  This  school  includes  a primary,  an  in- 
termediate and  high  school  department,  having  in 
all  twelve  classes.  Beside  the  studies  required  by  the 
government  the  Bible  is  taught  in  each  class  and 
such  practical  work  as  will  enable  the  scholars  to 
make  a living. 

The  boarding  department  is  too  small,  and  pupils 
have  to  be  turned  away  because  there  is  no  room* 
The  dormitory  for  the  girls,  under  the  care  of  Mrs* 
Hume,  one  of  the  most  efficient  and  successful  educa- 
tors in  any  country,  is  quite  inadequate  to  success  and 
comfort,  and  is  some  distance  from  the  mission  premises 
and  in  a street  of  Mohammedan  rowdies.  It  is  as  much  a 
place  for  roughs  in  Bombay  as  the  Five  Points  were  in 
New  York  city  forty  years  ago.  The  building  is  poor, 
but  these  young  W'Omen  are  making  the  best  use  of  it. 
They  had  painted  the  wood-work,  whitewashed  its  old 
and  dilapidated  walls  and  smoothed  its  floors.  W e 
saw  their  dinner  served,  which  consisted  of  rice  and 
curry  with  a single  vegetable.  The  entire  expense 
was  not  more  than  five  cents  a day  for  each.  In  this 


4L 


dormitory  are  living  and  messing  together  high  caste 
Brahmins  and  low  caste  coolies  and  the  despised  out- 
cast widows.  Christianity  in  any  measure  is  a great 
leveller,  but  it  levels  the  lowly  upward  and  the  high- 
minded  and  haughty  downward,  so  that  rich  and  poor 
meet  together  because  they  are  made  to  realize  by 
Christianity  that  the  Lord  is  the  maker  of  them  all. 
The  beds  of  these  girls  and  women  consist  of  one  piece 
of  grass  matting  covered  by  a cotton  quilt,  a sheet 
and  a pillow.  These  are  spread  on  the  clay  floor,  and 
even  this  poor  outfit,  in  our  eyes,  is  luxury  in  cleanli- 
ness and  comfort  compared  with  what  the  multitudes 
have  about  them. 

It  costs  so  little  to  bring  heathen  women  into  the 
habits  of  virtue  and  cleanliness,  and  the  ways  at  least 
of  Christianity,  that  it  is  strange,  nay,  cruel,  that  those 
who  waste  more  every  day  than  would  support  a half 
dozen  of  these  women  will  not  deny  themselves  use- 
less, hurtful  luxuries  to  give  to  them  the  bread  and 
comforts  of  Christian  life.  The  school  under  the  care' 
of  Mrs.  Hume  is  a model  of  the  kind.  The  reception 
given  to  us  was  cordial.  When  we  appeared  within 
the  doors  all  the  school  arose  and  greeted  us  in  genuine 
Oriental  fashion.  They  sang  several  of  the  gospel 
hymns  in  Marathi  and  English.  It  was  a scene  which 
readily  touched  the  Christian  heart  to  feel  the  thrill 
of  Christian  sympathy  borne  on  the  breath  of  melody 
from  tongues  so  lately  devoted  only  to  the  basest 
service  of  idolati^.  It  had  something  of  reproach  and 
chastisement  in  it,  that  we,  whose  souls  are  lighted, 
have  so  long  to  them  the  “lamp  of  life  denied.” 

After  their  singing  came  a surprise  quite  confusing. 
A little  boy  and  girl  came  forward  with  garlands  of 
snowy-white  jessamine  and  tuberoses  and  placed 


42 


them  on  our  wrists.  Then  another  came  with  gar- 
lands of  jessamines  and  roses  which  they  put  over  our 
heads  and  over  one  arm  in  the  style  of  a shoulder 
sash,  and  all  through  these  flowers  were  little  spangles 
of  looking-glass  about  the  size  of  a silver  dollar,  the 
mirror,  enclosed  in  a brass  frame  like  children’s  imi- 
tation watches,  producing  a beautiful  effect.  The  air 
was  loaded  with  the  perfume  of  the  garland,  and  the 
faces  of  the  pupils  were  full  of  smiles.  After  another 
song  a speech  was  called  for  from  the  man  bound  in 
wreaths  of  flowers;  the  symbolical  meaning  of  which 
he  interpreted  as  binding  the  heart  of  Christian 
America  to  India,  and  the  exchange  with  her  of  the 
joys  of  the  Christianity  to  add  to  her  wonderful 
natural  beauties  and  dispel  her  soul-darkness.  A like 
performance  had  been  the  joy  of  the  evening  before, 
on  the  occasion  of  the  advent  of  two  lady  teachers, 
one  from  Minneapolis,  Minn.,  and  the  other  from 
Montreal,  Canada,  the  answer  to  long  praying,  plead- 
ing and  hoping  on  the  part  of  the  missionaries  for 
help.  When  the  glad  day  came  they  did  well  to  be 
merry  over  it. 

Mrs.  Hume  is  a tireless  and  efficient  worker,  and 
has  had  always  enough  of  it  from  her  childhood,  as 
she  was  the  daughter  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Chandler,  a 
devoted  missionary,  known  and  still  remembered  in 
India,  and  being  thus  to  the  manor  born  her  knowl- 
edge will  always  keep  her  harnessed  to  all  the  duties 
she  can  discharge.  Help  in  many  ways  is  needed 
in  this  work ; a cabinet  organ  for  the  school  is  an 
important  item,  and  w^e  hope  some  of  the  Congrega- 
tional host  will  give  themselves  the  joy  of  sending  it; 
fifty  dollars  will  nowhere  buy  so  much  blessing  and  hap- 
piness. Garments  are  needed  for  the  scholars,  and  those 


43 


worn,  if  cut  and  resewed,  would  not  only  give  comfort, 
but  delight  to  these  children’s  hearts,  and  incline  them 
to  a religion  that  does  not  forget  childhood.  Pretty 
books,  pictures  and  toys  for  Christmas  are  needed;  a 
five  cent  toy  or  picture  given  to  a heathen  child  may, 
trifling  as  it  may  seem,  placate  and  draw  into  kindly 
relations  to  the  Church,  and  sooner  or  later  lead 
it  into  it. 

In  the  eight  Bombay  schools  there  are  sixty-five 
Christian  boys  and  sixty  Christian  girls,  the  total  num- 
ber of  scholars,  three  hundred  and  thirty-four.  The 
Sunday-school  work  is  quite  satisfactory  in  the  mis- 
sion church,  w^hich  is  attended  by  fathers  and  mothers, 
young  men  and  maidens,  and  a large  number  of 
heathen  children.  All  the  classes  sing  in  the  Marathi, 
led  by  Mrs.  Hume,  accompanying  their  voices  with 
the  organ.  All  are  taught  in  this  language  except 
one  class  in  English.  Mr.  Hume  teaches  a large 
class  of  men  and  his  wife  one  as  large  of  women; 
other  teachers  have  classes  according  to  their  aptitude 
and  age.  There  is  a school  at  the  Sasson  Keformatory 
where  the  boys  have  been  imprisoned  for  petty 
offences.  There  is  a class  of  one  hundred  and  thirty 
of  these  boys, -who  listen  attentively  to  the  instructions 
from  the  Bible. 

There  is  another  school  of  Hindu  women  of 
the  lowest  caste.  These  poor  souls  sit  on  the 
ground  and  listen  to  the  story  of  the  birth,  life,  sor- 
row and  death  of  Jesus  Christ.  These  heathen 
women  have  no  Sabbath,  every  day  is  prolonged 
drudgery,  yet  they  come  at  night,  lugging  a baby 
on  their  waist,  and  often  leading  another  by  the 
hand,  to  pick  up  the  crumbs  that  fall  from  the  more 
favored  children’s  table  in  Christian  lands.  There  is 


44 


a Sunday-school  at  Satara  of  one  hundred  and  twenty- 
five  boys  taught  by  Mrs.  Bruce.  The  number  is  kept 
up  by  the  use  of  the  picture  tracts  of  the  Tract 
Society,  nothing  is  more  attractive  to  children  in 
heathen  lands,  and  enough  are  wasted  in  our  homes 
in  America  to  attract  and  keep  together  hundreds 
of  children  here.  Besides,  how  small  a matter 
it  would  be  to  send  a thousand  of  these  little  pic- 
tures on  which  could  be  printed  a verse  of  Scrip- 
ture in  their  own  language,  which  might  become  a 
seed  corn  to  the  saving  of  souls.  One  of  the  most 
touching  things  in  connection  with  this  work  and 
the  desire  of  these  heathen  children  to  learn  is  a 
little  Sunday-school  at  Augar  kept  up  by  the  children 
themselves;  one  of  them  reading  or  telling  some 
Bible  stories  to  the  others,  and  each  bringing  a little 
offering,  smaller  than  a half-cent,  but  God  can  make 
it  great. 

Any  thing  that  concerns  the  life  of  the  illustrious 
Dr.  Livingstone  will  ever  be  of  interest  to  Christian 
hearts,  and  those  faithful  black  men  who  followed  him 
through  all  his  dangers  and  were  his  companions 
through  the  trackless  jungles  and  deserts,  who  never 
deserted  him  in  life  or  death,  must  be  sharers  of  his 
immortality.  These  men  were  educated  and  brought 
to  Christ  in  a mission  school  near  Bombay,  sustained 
for  these  African  waifs,  often  rescued  or  escaped  from 
slave  ships.  We  read  with  wonder  of  the  children  of 
Israel  carrying  the  bones  of  Joseph  through  all  their 
forty  years  wanderings  until  they  reached  the  land  of 
promise ; but  this  is  not  as  wonderful,  considering  the 
difference  of  their  lives,  as  the  devotion  of  those  three 
Christian  black  men,  who  watched  their  master  in  the 
last  prayer  he  offered,  out  of  which  his  soul  was  caught 


45 


up  to  glory.  Preparing  his  body  with  tender  hands, 
with  tearful  eyes  they  bore  it  for  seven  months 
through  jungles  and  rivers,  morass  and  desert,  until 
they  brought  it  safe  to  Bombay.  The  physician  who 
examined  the  body  and  identified  it  is  a civil  surgeon 
and  a Christian  worker  in  a mission  Sunday-school  at 
Ahmedabad. 

Jacob  Wainright  followed  the  body  of  Livingstone 
to  Westminster  Abbey,  and  there  among  that  great 
concourse  that  honored  the  Christian  dead  this  faith- 
ful servant  commanded  as  much  enthusiasm  as  the 
greatest.  A mission  cause  that  does  produce  such 
impressions  upon  the  minds  of  the  heathen  of  the 
Dark  Continent  will  never  be  feeble  or  despised.  Not 
the  least  of  the  work  of  this  mission  is  the  preparing 
and  disseminating  of  the  printed  page.  There  is  a 
newspaper  under  the  editorial  charge  of  Rev.  J.  E. 
Abbott,  son  of  a former  missionary  and  well-known 
for  his  literary  and  evangelical  work.  It  is  in  the 
hlarathi  language  and  has  reached  its  forty-fifth  year. 
It  was  edited  for  a long  time  by  a native  Christian 
until  his  death  in  1885.  It  is  a weekly  of  sixteen 
royal  octavo  pages.  It  is  often  quoted  by  Hindu 
papers  and  is  an  important  medium  of  defence  of  the 
Christian  faith  against  false  charges  which  are  made 
against  it.  The  Young  Peoj^le^s  Magazine  is  edited  by 
Mrs.  Hume,  issued  monthly  and  has  completed  its 
fourteenth  year,  doing  a good  work  among  the  young 
people  of  India. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  objects  in  connection  with 
the  mission  work  in  Bombay  is  the  old  church  of  the 
American  Board — what  marvellous  works  and  words  of 
grace  it  hath  seen  and  heard  both  from  our  own  country- 
men and  inspired  native  preachers ! It  has  been  as  a soU- 


46 


ary  light-house,  diffusing  its  rays  amidst  the  gross  dark- 
ness of  the  people.  Many  of  the  great  men  who  have 
proclaimed  the  gospel  within  its  walls  are  gone,  but  the 
Church,  like  its  living  Head,  lives  on.  A reception, 
was  given  in  it  in  honor  of  the  two  young  lady  mis- 
sionaries newly  arrived.  The  house  was  well  filled 
with  native  members  and  their  friends.  The  pulpit 
was  decorated  with  a wealth  of  flowers,  which  the  sun- 
beams of  a generous  sky  offer  to  the  admiration  and 
delight  of  the  people.  They  sang  the  same  songs 
which  we  sing  at  home,  and  while  the  music  was  sweet 
the  visitors  could  only  say,  “ How  can  we  sing  the 
Lord’s  songs  in  a strange  land?”  An  admirable 
address  was  read  by  the  wife  of  one  of  the  native 
elders  in  unexceptionable  English,  which  was  re- 
plied to  by  the  young  lady  missionaries.  An  ad- 
dress was  also  made  by  her  husband,  one  of  the  most 
active  young  men  of  the  church  and  manager  of  the 
printing  department  of  the.  Board’s  wofk.  After 
which  came  refreshments,  and  social  enjoyments  which 
were  like  those  at  home.  The  pastor  of  this  church  is 
a Christain  native.  It  is  active  and  increasing  and 
has  a membership  of  about  one  hundred  and  fifty. 
Some  of  them  came  from  high  caste  families  into  the 
higher,  more  real  and  glorious  caste  of  Christ’s  freed- 
men. 

The  church  is  badly  located,  and  in  our  judgment 
will  not  do  its  full  work  until  removed.  The  neighbor- 
hood has  deteriorated,  manufactories  have  encroached 
upon  it,  the  ruffian  element  of  the  Mohammedans  has 
taken  possession  of  the  street  on  both  sides,  until  it 
is  no  longer  safe  for  a woman  to  attend  the  services 
at  night.  We  could  hardly  press  our  way  through 
the  rowdy  crowd  which  had  gathered  around  on  the 


47 


evening  of  this  reception.  The  building  could  be  sold 
for  a fair  price,  and  a spot  nearer  the  mission  com- 
pound would  be  in  every  respect  better  both  for  reach- 
ing the  more  hopeful  class  of  the  people  aud  their 
families  and  for  the  convenience  of  the  school  and 
missionaries.  Of  course,  this  is  said  only  as  it  appears 
to  us  in  the  interest  of  the  Church  of  Christ  and  in  no 
sense  in  the  form  of  seeming  dictation. 

The  Brahmins  are  an  inexplicable  people  even  to 
themselves.  They  are  hedged  about  by  caste  restric- 
tion and  customs  hoary  with  years,  and  by  the  entan- 
glements which  have  grown  upon  a people  who  have 
had  little  intercourse  'with  others  because  of  their  exclu- 
^ siveness  and  self-importance.  But  the  partition  fences 
that  have  separated  them  are  falling  and  they  have 
neither  will  nor  force  to  repair  them.  Many  have  be- 
come Christians,  more  have  been  gradually  modified, 
unconsciously  the  leaven  is  going  through  the  mass. 
They  know  that  they  can  never  recover  their  pow’er. 
Pride  only  enslaves  them. 

One’  of  the  most  enjoyable  experiences  in  Bom- 
bay -was  an  invitation  to  dine  with  a Christian 
family  who  had  been  high  caste  Brahmins.  The 
father  'was  one  of  the  most  eminent  of  native  Chris- 
tian ministers,  and  had  been  for  many  years  the 
beloved  pastor  of  the  American  Board’s  church  in 
Bombay.  His  wife,  daughter  and  sons  ar^  active 
workers  in  the  mission  and  church.  One  of  his  sons, 
a young  man,  is  preparing  for  the  ministry  at  Ahmed- 
• nagar  and  his  daughter  is  engaged  in  the  school. 
This  entertainment  was  given  in  native  style  to  show 
us  how  a dinner  is  served.  The  family  have  long 
since  adopted  the  habits  of  the  European  and  Ameri- 
can Christians.  The  floor  upon  which  the  dinner  was 


48 


served  was  smoothed  over  with  the  usual  mortar  of 
cow  dung  and  clay.  Through  the  middle  of  the  room 
a passage  was  laid  out  on  the  floor,  with  lines  drawn 
in  colored  chalk,  with  borders  such  as  a fresco  artist 
would  draw  around  a panel  on  a ceiling.  The  floor 
when  dried  was  ochre  color,  and  the  border  was  of 
light  blue  touched  in  points  with  red.  This  passage 
was  for  the  attendants,  who  were  girded  about  the 
waists,  to  walk  over  w^hile  serving  the  guests. 

The  food  "was  served  on  plantain  leaves  instead  of 
plates  and  laid  on  the  floor  along  these  ornamented 
lines.  The  guests  sat  down  on  the  floor,  which  is 
always  the  easiest  motion  to  the  nimble-limbed  natives, 
but  to  an  American  with  a considerable  share  of  cor-  • 
porosity  it  was  accompanied  by  a grunt,  and  when 
thus  seated  discomfort  began,  the  members  rebelled  at 
their  restraint,  and  w^ere  too  painful  to  be  graceful. 
Nor  was  the  back  any  more  submissive  to  the  new 
conditions,  the  fact  that  every  part  of  the  body 
was  in  an  unwonted  position  caused  it  to  grow  tender 
and  fretful.  It  w^as  a long,  ceremonious  and  punctili- 
ous affair,  in  the  full  detail  of  Oriental  etiquette.  At 
intervals,  when  eyes  were  not  regarding  ^he  guests,  the 
position  was  quickly  changed  from  one  part  of  the  sit- 
ting base  to  the  other.  One  leg  in  pain  was  drawn  up 
and  the  other  asleep  w*as  stretched  out  with  a sigh  for 
the  time  of  general  deliverance  when  it  might  be  possi- 
ble to  get  up.  We  had  been  instructed  in  the  table 
manners  of  the  Brahmins,  -\vhich  were  to  eat  every 
thing  with  a relish  and  with  the  greatest  delibera- 
tion. The  first  article  of  food,  served  on  a leaf 
laid  on  the  floor,  was  rice  moulded  in  a very  large 
teacup  and  turned  bottom  side  up.  This  w'as  dressed 
with  curry,  which  is  in  as  universal  use  in  India 


49 


as  butter  in  America.  This  curry  is  made  of  cocoa- 
nuts  and  pungent  ingredients  mixed  with  red  pep- 
per until  it  is  as  hot  as  distilled  fire.  Etiquette  re- 
quired every  particle  of  this  half  pound  of  boiled  rice 
to  be  eaten  and  the  appetite  of  the  American  guest 
was  set  in  motion.  But  the  digestion  not  being 
adapted  to  this  hot  dressing  hiccoughs  started,  shak- 
ing the  diaphragm  and  kindred  parts  .violently.  It 
was  soon  apparent  that  something  heroic  had  to  be 
done  or  the  occasion  'would  be  marred.  The  rice 
had  to  be  disposed  of,  and  as  we  had  no  leather  bag, 
such  as  relieved  Jack  the  Giant-Killer,  the  pocket 
handkerchief  was  brought  into  requisition.  Brah- 
min etiquette  requires  all  to  be  eaten  with  the  fingers, 
so  the  handkerchief  was  used  freely  as  a diversion, 
and  while  it  was  being  flourished  about  the  face  the 
whole  of  the  rice  from  off  the  plantain  leaf  was  lifted 
and  safely  deposited  in  the  handkerchief,  folded  up  in 
it,  and  put  in  the  coat  tail  pocket  with  the  determina- 
tion to  empty  the  rice  into  the  street  at  the  first  op- 
portunity. The  rest  of  the  dinner  was  enjoyed,  strange 
as  it  was  to  our  habits  and  tastes.  Bananas  sliced 
and  dressed  in  buttermilk  were  served  and  were  very 
palatable.  Fruits  were  relished,  but  there  was  no 
appearance  of  flesh,  for  the  Brahmins  are  religiously 
vegetarians,  there  being  no  greater  offence  in  their 
eyes  than  the  destroying  of  ajiimal  life  under  any 
condition.  They  will  give  up  their  own  lives  to  vici- 
ous animals  or  serpents  rather  than  save  them  by  vio- 
lence to  the  offending  creature. 

The  evening  was  spent  in  pleasant  intercourse  with 
this  Christian  family  and  rest  was  sought  at  its  close 
in  the  Great  Western  Hotel.  The  rice  in  the  coat 
pocket  was  entirely  forgotten  foi  a day  or  two  until 


it  had  dried,  and  by  sitting  upon  it  in  cars  and  car- 
riages its  grains  were  well  segregated  when  its  grand 
finale  came.  We  were  at  luncheon  in  the  Hotel,  at 
the  table  with  about  one  hundred  guests,  and  by  mis- 
take took  some  of  the  fated  curry.  Immediately  the 
hiccoughs  began,  and  we  reached  quickly  back  to  get 
a pocket  handkerchief,  the  disposition  of  the  rice  hav- 
ing been  forgotten;  when  the  handkerchief  was 
brought  out  the  half  pound  of  imprisoned  rice 
brought  from  the  Brahmin  feast  two  days  before 
scattered  over  every  thing,  person,  plate  and  table 
cloth,  and  rattled  on  the  bare  fioor  among  the 
feet  of  the  guests.  Consternation  ensued,  the  un- 
fortunate victim  was  in  condition  to  “ wish  he  were 
dead.”  An  Englishman  said  to  his  neighbor  in 
a low  tone,  “He  must  be  a rice  merchant  and  carries 
his  samples  in  his  pocket.”  His  friend  replied,  “ I 
think  he  belongs  to  the  sect  of  the  Jains  and  carries 
it  to  feed  the  birds.”  What  other  remarks  were  made 
about  the  strange  proceedings  we  were  not  in  a sufil- 
cient  condition  of  receptivity  to  hear,  and  as  exit 
was  being  made  from  the  dining-room  the  last  thing 
seen  was  a servant  with  a brush  and  dust-pan  sweep- 
ing it  up  as  if  Ihe  whole  place  had  been  contaminated 
with  it. 

Through  the  courtesy  of  another  family  of  high 
caste  and  culture  another  insight  into  Brahmin  social 
life  was  obtained.  The  residence  had  the  proportions 
and  furnishings  of  wealth.  It  is  the  law  of  the  family 
in  India  that  the  sons  shall  never  leave  the  parental 
roof ; hence  a family  is  often  a colony  of  many  per- 
sons under  the  same  roof.  The  mother-in-law  is  here 
in  all  her  power,  and  the  sons’  wives  often  have  a 
rough  time  of  it.  The  gentleman  receiving  the  guests 


51 


was  a physician  and  a man  of  culture,  ■ speaking  the 
English  language  well,  having  been  educated  in  Eng- 
land. He  introduced  two  ladies  of  the  household, 
refined  and  interesting  women,  speaking  the  English 
intelligibly.  They  received  their  foreign  visitors  with 
marked  cordiality,  a thing  quite  unusual,  for  in  India 
women  seldom  appear  in  the  presence  of  gentlemen. 
The  native  ladies  soon  retired  after  their  presentation 
with  the  lady  guests,  and  what  is  seen  in  the  zenana  is 
upon  their  report.  A zenana  proper  is  a household, 
at  the  head  of  which  is  the  mother-in-law,  who  governs 
and  “^anks”  her  daughters-in-law  if  she  feels  like  it. 
When  her  own  daughters  are  betrothed  they  go  into 
the  family  of  the  husband  and  pass  through  the  same 
torment. 

These  wives,  taken  care  of  by  the  mother-in-law, 
are  often  at  the  beginning  only  babies.  The  marriage 
ceremony  is  performed  always  in  great  pomp,  the  bride 
and  groom  being  sometimes  so  young  that  they  cannot 
hold  up  their  heads,  and  a servant  rides  behind  to  hold 
them  up,  their  heads  rolling  about  like  a gourd  tied  by  a 
string.  If  the  husband  of  a female  child  dies,  to 
whom  she  has  been  betrothed  when  she  was  a oabe, 
she  is  blamed  for  it;  she  is  judged  to  oe  in  communi- 
cation with  some  evil  spirit.  Formerly  widows  were 
burned  until  the  British  government  stopped  it,  but 
they  might  better  be  burned  now,  for  burning  is  mer- 
ciful in  comparison  wdth  w^hat  they  suffer.  They  are 
not  in  their  parents’  families,  but  those  of  their  hus- 
bands, and  blood  will  tell  both  in  love  and  cruelty. 
The  first  thing  after  her  husband  dies,  (whom  possibly 
she  has  never  seen,  having  been  bargained  to  him  by 
the  parents),  the  pretty  garments  of  the  wife  and  all 
her  ornaments  are  taken  from  her  and  a coarse  cotton 


52 


garment  given  in  its  stead.  She  is  allowed  only  one 
meal  of  rice  a day,  and  that  she  has  to  eat  alone.  She 
is  never  permitted  to  have  any  part  in  the  festivities 
of  the  home  or  neighborhood.  She  is  obliged  to  sleep 
on  the  floor  without  proper  covering,  her  head  resting 
only  on  a block  of  wood,  without  being  so  much  as 
hollowed  out  to  fit  her  poor  weary  head.  She  is 
obliged  to  do  the  mo.  t menial  and  loathsome  work, 
and  has  often  to  walk  miles  carrying  beastly  burdens 
in  the  blazing  sun.  She  is  treated  worse  than  all  this, 
being  often  compelled  to  submit  to  the  lust  of  her 
father-in-law  and  tlie  brothers  of  her  husband  and  any- 
body else  tolerated  in  the  family. 

In  the  elegant  house  which  we  visited  the  ladies 
saw,  in  the  ante-room  to  the  zenana,  a poor,  withered, 
drooping,  smitten  life,  crouching  on  a stool,  not  dar- 
ing to  lift  her  eyes  upon  the  visitors,  for  it  is  a belief 
that  the  gaze  of  such  a person  into  the  face  of  a mem- 
ber of  the  family  or  visitor  wdll  bring  bad  luck  and 
all  its  calamities ; so  as  the  lady  guests  were  conducted 
through  she  hurried  away  like  a frightened  hare. 
After  the  interview  with  the  mother-in-law  and  her 
daughters-in-law  and  their  children  they  were  depart- 
ing, and  as  the  door  opened,  all  doubled  up  and 
squat  on  her  heels,  sat  this  object  of  vengeance  and 
pity,  with  downcast  eyes,  and  though  spoken  to  by 
Mrs.  Hume  she  never  moved  her  head.  Iso  hope  can 
ever  inspire  that  life,  no  relief  ever  come  to  that 
WTeck,  which  she  never  did  aught  to  bring  about. 

’ While  the  subject  of  child  marriages  are  under  con- 
sideration it  may  be  interesting  to  describe  one  of 
these  festive  occasions.  A little  boy  is  seen  riding 
upon  a horse  carrying  a baby,  he  is  the  bridegroom, 
and. the  cooing  or  squalling  baby  is  his  bride ; some- 


53 


times  they  are  too  young  for  this  kind  of  performance 
and  then  they  are  carried  on  the  parents’  shoulders 
side  by  side,  adorned  with  the  richest  apparel  and  by 
costly  ornaments.  Great  anxiety  is  expressed  at  the 
choice  of  a lucky  day.  The  astrologer  is  called  in 
and  examines  the  positions  of  the  planets  to  see  if  their 
conjunction  indicates  celestial  favor,  and  the  idol 
gods  are  consulted.  If  all  is  favorable  the  friends 
of  both  families  are  called  in.  The  father  of  the 
daughter  sends  his  servant  with  a dish  of  rice,  out  of 
which  the  servant  takes  a few  grains  and  places  them 
in  the  hands  of  the  neighbors,  this  meaning  that  the 
father  is  about  to  give  the  child  away  in  marriage, 
and  that  he  wishes  them  to  attend  the  wedding.  The 
ceremonies  last  from  three  to  five  days,  until  they 
have  eaten  out  the  resources  of  the  family  and  their 
hunger  heads  them  off.  The  first  two  days  are  spent 
in  processions  and  other  boisterous  performances.  The 
marriage  takes  place  on  the  second  or  third’  day. 
This  is  performed  by  spreading  a cloth  and  holding  it 
between  the  parties,  who,  if  very  young,  sit  on  fheir 
parents’  knees,  while  the  Brahmin  priest  chants  in 
an  unknown  tongue,  and  after  this  the  friends  give 
the  bride  and  groom  some  grains  of  rice,  which  means 
that  they  hope  the  family  stomach  may  always  have 
distention.  But  when  the  time  comes  for  the  re- 
moval of  the  wife  there  is  music  in  that  part  of  the 
town ; she  does  not  wish  to  give  up  her  sweet  liberty. 
If  old  enough  she  has  probably  heard  of  the  tradi- 
tional mother-in-law,  and  horror  lays  its  grip  on  her 
heart,  she  resists,  cries  piteously,  lies  on  the  giound, 
struggles  and  kicks  out  of  sheer  desperation,  so  that 
she  has  to  be  carried  by  servants,  as  a calf  lows  at  the 
sight  of  the  butcher’s  shambles. 


' 54 

She  is  soon  subdued  under  the  old  “ she  inquisitor/’ 
and  is  obliged  to  do  the  hardest  work  under  the  con- 
tinual scold  of  the  old  woman.  She  must  not  have 
any  better  garments  than  the  mother-in-lawj  and  if 
her  husband  gives  her  keepsakes  thei^  old  boss”  takes 
them  from  her  and  wears  them  herself,  and  so  life 
drags  in  tormenting  length  until  she  has  the  pleasure 
of  attending  the  funeral  of  her  mother-in-law,  and 
then  she  succeeds  her  in  her  mission  of  torment  to 
those  younger  than  herself,  the  wives  of  her  own  sons. 
The  wife  is  not  permitted  to  speak  her  husband’s 
name ; when  she  refers  to  him  she  does  it  by  pointing 
to  one  of  the  children,  and  saying,  “ This  child’s 
father.”  Occasionally  there  is  one  who  has  music  in 
her  soul  and  fearlessness  in  her  heart  and  a glint  of 
humor  in  her  life.  Such  a one  Came  into  a mission 
school,  a little  girl,  for  the  first  time,  and  when  her 
teacher  asked  her  name,  she  replied,  ‘‘  I am  Tukaram’s 
family.”  It  would  be  an  outrage  on  married  society 
for  a man  to  show  any  attention  to  his  wife  in  public, 
even  in  going  together  along  the  street.  The  man 
goes  ahead  a couple  of  rods  and  his  wife  comes  along, 
like  a lately  whipped  dog,  behind. 


CHAPTER  V. 

SCENES,  INCIDENTS  AND  FACTS  ABOUT  BOMBAY. 

The  English  came  into  possession  of  Bombay,  as 
usual,  in  the  glamour  of  surprise.-  Charles  II. 
married,  in  1661,  Catharina  of  Braganza,  and  this 
was  a part  of  her  dower.  But  the  islands  of  Salsette 
and  Karanja  continued  in  possession  of  the  Portu- 
guese. Charles  tired  of  his  possession  and  sold  it 
to  the  East  India  Company  for  an  annual  rental  of 
ten  pounds  in  gold.  The  East  India  Company  for  a 
long  time  would  have  been  glad  of  help  to  let 
go  the  troublesome  end  of  their  bargain,  for  they 
were  much  perplexed  by  the  assaults  of  the  Portu- 
guese, the  Maharattas  and  the  Sida  or  Abyssinian 
Admiral,  whose  descendants  are  still  the  Nawabs. 
It  was  not  until  after  the  defeat  of  the  Peshwa  at 
Kirkee,  in  1818,  that  Bombay  became  the  capital  of 
Western  India. 

The  most  apparent  and  interesting  object  at  the 
entrance  of  the  harbor  is  Colaba,  w^hich  seems  to 
wrestle  with  the  waves  and  to  stand  sponsor  for 
the  great  Empire  behind  it.  The  next  object  is 
an  index  to  the  moral  side  of  life;  the  graceful 
spire  of  St.  John’s  church,  a memorial  to  the  British 
officers  and  men  who  fell  in  the  first  Afghanistan  war. 
The  city  is  beautiful  and  its  effect  enchanting  at  every 
prospect,  yet  it  would  be  hard  to  tell  what  one  object 
contributes  to  this  end.  It  is  rather  in  the  peerless 
combination  of  all.  But  there  are  single  objects  be- 
fore which  the  most  indifferent  must  pause.  The 
wide  streets  of  the  European  quarter  are  flanked 


55 


56 


by  stately  houses,  the  builders  of  the  city  through 
ages  having  been  prodigal  of  space  and  fearless  of 
sunlight.  Nature  has  either  inspired  it  or  been 
inspired  by  it,  for  never  was  there  greater  profusion 
of  floral  and  arboreal  beauty,  spreading  miles  in  ex- 
tent, and  modifying  the  fierceness  of  tlie  tropical  heat. 
The  light  has  a bewitching  influence,  changing  the 
proportions  of  things,  constantly  deceiving  both  in 
color  and  distance.  There  are  a large  number  of  fine 
buildings  cheaply  built,  mostly  stucco  work,  but  looking 
better  than  the  most  costly  stone  with  elaborate  work- 
manship. One  of  the  finest  of  these  architectural 
shams  is  University  Hall,  which  looks  more  like  a 
church  of  mediaeval  times  slightly  and  badly  modern- 
ized than  like  a University  building  according  to 
modern  ideas.  There  is  a University  library  designed 
by  the  same  architect.  It  looks  as  if  the  tower  had 
been  built  first  and  the  rest  were  a “ lean  to,”  an  after 
thought,  and  not  a great  thought  either,  the  best  part 
of  it  all  is  a peal  of  joy  bells. 

A real  gem  is  the  statue  of  Queen  Victoria,  a 
present  by  the  late  Khand  Rao  Gackuad.  The  Em- 
press is  represented  as  seated  on  her  chair  of  state,, 
resting  on  a lofty  platform,  which  crowns  a series  of 
marble  steps  rising  on  every  side.  In  the  centre  of 
the  canopy  is  the  star  of  India  and  above  the  rose  of 
England  united  with  the  lotus  of  India,  and  around 
them  are  the  mottoes,  “God  and  my  right”  and 
“ Heaven’s  light  is  our  guide.”  The  whole  structure 
must  be  at  least  eighteen  feet  high,  placed  in  the 
midst  of  a plot  of  ground  ever  in  the  broad  winsome 
smile  ot  the  sun,  and  surrounded  by  abundant  flowers 
and  shrubs.  Not  far  away  is  a reminder  of  the  “great 
and  good”  Prince  of  Wales,  an  equestrian  statue  in 


57 


commemoration  of  his  visit  to  Bombay.  Two  castings 
on  each  side  of  the  grand  base  represent  the  landing 
at  the  dockyard  and  the  presentation  of  flowers  to 
the  Prince  by  Parsee  children  during  the  children’s 
fete  at  the  Esplanade. 

The  European  quarters  of  Bombay  are  imposing 
rather  than  costly  or  beautiful.  There  is  an  impression 
made  of  regal  proportions  in  the  houses  and  public 
buildings.  They  are  painted  in  a showy  style  in 
water  colors;  never  was  there  so  much  show  for  so 
little  money.  Nature  in  India  abhors  ugliness,  and 
what  man  spoils,  or  makes  ridiculous,  she  instantly 
repairs,  and  hides  deformities  in  the  bosem  of  beauties. 
The  gardens  are  sources  of  refreshment  and  delight,, 
and  the  University  gardens  are  among  the  most  en- 
gaging, and  the  railroad  station  the  finest  and  largest 
in  tho  world.  The  streets  are  living  marvels  of 
heaving  and  swaying  life  of  every  grade,  from  the 
monkey  up  to  man,  and  from  man  down  to  the  mangy 
cur.  In  the  moving  masses  are  women  in  robes  of  blue, 
scarlet  and  gold,  Persians  in  shaggy  hats,  Parsees  in 
cherry-colored  silk  trousers,  tall  military  Rajputs, 
Chinamen  with  pig  tails  like  the  traditional  town 
pump  handles,  swaggering  Musselmen  in  turbans  of 
green,  sleek  Maruasees  wnth  tight-fitting,  parti-colored 
turbans  of  red  and  yellow.  Tliis  rolling,  living  mass 
of  life  follows  no  pavements,  but  goes  with  burdens  on 
backs  and  heads  through  the  highways  around  and 
against  every  kind  of  vehicle.  Through  this  crowd 
are  driven  showy  barouches,  pony  phaetons,  the  bul- 
lock cart,  filled  with  natives,  with  a contriv-ance  like 
a veritable  awning  sheltering  the  bullock  from  tlie 
sun,  while  he  walks  and  trots  faster  than  an  ordinary 
horse.  There  are  men  carrying  loads  as  bulky  as 


58 


bales  of  hay,  shouting  to  the  crowds  to  make  way, 
others  announcing  their  wares  in  weird  Oriental  cries, 
and  the  strangest  thing  of  all  is  that  they  all  move 
in  crowds  and  the  crowds  move  aground  them ; there 
are  no  fights,  no  injuries,  no  breakage,  no  crippling 
and  no  cursing.  ‘ 

There  are  by  the  wayside,  in  the  native  quarter, 
long  lines  of  confectioners’  goods  piled  in  fantastic 
order,  while  behind  sits  the  salesman  with  no 
more  clothing  than  could  be  gotten  out  of  a 
linen  pocket-handkerchief.  Next  door  are  piles  of 
brass  drinking  and  cooking  utensils,  brightly  bur- 
nished, for  the  Hindu  will  only  eat  and  drink  out  of 
vessels  of  brass;  his  next  neighbor  is  the  money 
changer,  solemn,  big-eyed,  and  blinking  like  an  owl 
at  the  rays  of  noon-day’s  sun.  He  sits  on  a rug  on 
the  floor  with  his  bare  feet  together  and  legs  drawn  up 
so  he  can  rest  his  lower  jaw”  on  his  knees,  sur- 
rounded by  piles  of  rupees,  pice  and  tiny  shells.  The 
latter  are  the  contrivances  w”ith  which  the  Hindus  satisfy 
their  consciences  as  to  their  offerings  to  their  gods, 
a peck  of  which  would  not  cost  a dime.  His  neigh- 
bor is  in  strangely  different  style  and  mode.  He  is 
oily  and  happy,  chattering  like  a crazy  monkey, 
and  his  auditors,  not  hearing  a word,  are  in  return 
cackling  in  his  ears.  This  is  the  local  grocer,  and 
his  little  eight  by  ten  shop  is  filled  with  baskets  loaded 
and  empty.  Behind  his  store,  but  in  sight,  is  a hovel, 
in  which  is  an  old  man  w”ith  attenuated  legs,  the  skin 
pulled  over  the  bones,  and  stretched  over  tl:e  knots 
of  his  knees.  He  is  sitting  down  on  the  floor  and  is 
the  silver  worker,  manufacturing  the  most  delicate 
specimens  of  the  art,  and  stranger  still  all  his  tools 
visible  are  a blow-pipe,  a small  hammer  and  a pair 


59 


of  pinchers.  In  the  next  shop  is  the  far-famed  manu- 
facturer of  ebony  furniture  covered  with  exquisite 
carvings  of  monsters,  which  only  live  in  imagination, 
and  fruits  and  flowers,  in  which  India  outdoes  even 
imagination. 

In  this  general  round  the  pilgrim  comes  to  the  hos- 
pital of  the  Jains  for  the  sustenance,  care  and  cure  of 
• diseased  and  disabled  animals.  The  Jains  are  the 
remnant  of  Buddhism,  and  about  the  last  of  them  in 
India,  who  regard  as  sacred  all  life,  especially  animal 
life.  This  they  worship,  and  give  to  its  sustenance 
ungrudgingly  and  even  themselves  to  satiate  its  crav- 
ings. A Jain  would  not  get  out  of  the  way  of  a cobra, 
hut  worship  it  if  it  sent  its  fangs  the  next  moment 
to  his  heart.  In  this  faith  the  rich  Jains  establish 
and  endow  hospitals  where  all  sick,  crippled  or  weak, 
animals  are  treated  until  they  are  cured  or  die.  There 
is  in  the  hospital  at  Bombay  a large  court  with  sheds 
on  three  sides,  in  which  are  sick  and  maimed  oxen ; 
another,  less  in  extent,  in  which  are  kept  dogs  and 
cats  and  monkeys.  Some  of  the  dogs  were  old  and 
rheumatic,  surly  and  contentious.  They  snarl  and 
show  their  “ snag  teeth”  at  each  other  and  growl  out 
of  the  depths  of  their  impotency.  There  was  a one- 
legged  parrot  which  would  scold,  mock  and  scream  at 
them,  calling  them  ugly  names  until,  as  the  keeper 
said,  they  were  in  a nervous  excitement  day  and 
night.  This  tormenting  imp  would  whistle  for  them, 
and  when  they  hobbled  oif  on  three  legs,  holding 
up  the  sore  one,  thinking  it  some  friendly  visitor 
with  a choice  dainty,  it  would  shame  them,  call  them 
fools  and  scowl  and  curse  them  away  to  their  kennels 
crestfallen  and  with  their  tails,  as  far  as  their  rheu- 
matic condition  would  permit,  between  their  legs. 


60 


The  monkey  had  been  the  victim  of  excessive  heat, 
applied  to  his  back  in  the  form  of  a steam  bath,  not 
far  from  the  spot  at  which  his  prehensile  took  its  de- 
parture for  its  latter  end.  This  inquisitive  indi- 
vidual had  been  trespassing  on  somebody’s  premises 
and  had  received  a warm  reception,  detaching  the 
capillary  substance  from  the  preadamite  cuticle.  His 
adversities  had  not  been  disciplinary,  for  he  could  not 
repress  his  instinct  to  keep  the  hospital  in  an  uproar. 
He  would  plant  himself  in  the  trough  of  the  oxen  and 
throw  their  soft  feed  on  their  faces  or  in  their  eyes, 
occasionally  striking  them  over  the  nose  until  they 
would  low  of  pain  and  outrage ; he  would  pull 
the  ears  and  t ails  of  the  lame  dogs  and  wake  them  up 
from  their  naps.  He  had  denuded  the  tail  of  a 
lame  rooster,  scattering  both  his  glory  and  covering 
all  through  the  biped  apartments.  In  this  hospital 
are  every  kind  of  paupers,  crippled,  sick  and  saucy, 
rats,  sparrows,  peacocks  and  • chickens,  all  are  fed 
and  rested  as  far  as  the  superintending  monkey  will 
permit. 

Not  far  from  this  collection  is  a place  where  the  per- 
fection of  agility  and  fleetness  can  be  seen  and 
admired,  the  stables  and  bazaar  of  Arab  horses. 
They  are  glossy,  nimble  and  spirited,  with  the 
brightest  eyes  and  cleanest  limbs.  They  are  human- 
ized beasts,  being  raised  as  members  of  respect- 
able families  according  to  the  Oriental  standard. 
They  are  fed  almost  entirely  on  wheat  straw,  with  but 
little  grain,  sometimes  the  seeds  of  the  date  palm  are 
ground  and  mixed  with  the  straw.  In  these  bazaars 
are  the  finest  of  their  kind  in  the  East,  most  of  them 
come  from  the  provinces  bordering  on  the  Persian 
Gulf,  the  very  best  come  from  Sowfel  and  Nedjed,  and 


61 


the  prices  are  from  three  to  five  hundred  dollars.  The 
Orient  combines  the  ideas  of  royalty  and  sanctity  in  a 
way  no  Westerner  ever  would  think  of.  Kin^s  are  not 
of  mortal  extraction ; the  mortal  is  the  channel  through 
which  the  Divine  appears.  On  the  theory  that  an  old 
decayed,  moss-grown  trough  may  hold  the  clearest  and 
purest  water,  so  the  kingly  and  priestly  functions  in 
the  Oriental  mind  are  inseparable.  An  illustration  oi 
these  ideas  can  be  seen  in  the  form  of  royal  sacred 
bulls,  who  have  the  liberty  of  the  city,  and  as  often 
deprive  everybody  else  of  theirs.  These  are  sup- 
ported at  public  expense  and  restrained  in  nothing 
they  choose  to  do,  a Brahminical  institution,  belong- 
' ing  to  both  the  Brahmin  and  Jain  sacred  conceits,  and 
through  these  sects  and  the  universal  tendencies  of  the 
Oriental  mind  to  attach  sanctity  to  laziness,  uselessness, 
age  and  impudence.  The  bull,  like  all  their  dignita- 
ries, has  as  good  a claim  for  support  and  reverence  as 
the  best.  This  high-toned  nuisance  walks  straight 
through  the  crowds  of  people,  w^hether  they  be  wor- 
shipping or  trading,  [as  he  listeth,  all  move  aside  for 
him,  even  if  a god  stands  in  his  way  he  will  contempt- 
uously toss  it  aside.  He  goes  into  the  markets  and 
takes  what  he  fancies  without  money  or  price,  the 
costliest  and  daintiest  flowers,  the  most  expensive  fruits. 
He  loves  marigolds,  which  are  fed  to  him,  even  pressed 
into  the  attention  of  his  majesty.  If  he  desires  to 
walk  through  a china  shop  there  are  neither  doors 
nor  disposition  to  hinder  him.  If  he  stops  to 
observe  himself  in  a mirror,  then  and  there  the  con- 
• test  will  be  settled  whether  two  sacred  bulls  can  live  in 
the  same  china  shop,  at  the  expense  of  the  mirror  and 
its  unfortunate  owner.  These  sacred  tyrants,  like  all 
of  their  kind  whose  sanctity  sours  and  effervesces, 
become  cruel  and  bloodthirsty,  and  the  lives  of  the 


62 


people  are  often  sacrificed.  But  no  native  would  lift 
a hand  if  one  of  these  monsters  were  destroying  life. 
A Brahmin  father  would  not  strike  him  to  save  his 
child. 

The  English  have,  however,  so  far  conquered  this 
disgusting  animal  worship  that  they  have  gotten  tol- 
eration for  condemning  the  vicious  by  the  magis- 
trates of  the  city,  who  in  the  sanctities  of  thei’r 
official  position  may  put  him  to  death.  But  no 
Brahmin  or  Jain  will  admit  that  it  is  right,  because 
the  soul  of  some  ancestor  may  be  inr  him.  The 
unity  of  the  human  races  is  evident  not  only  in  the 
same  mental,  lingual  and  physical  characteristics, 
but  in  the  same  character  of  amusements ; they  will  be 
varied  as  the  people  and  climates  and  conditions  of 
life,  but  the  same  trend  runs  through  all.  Dancing  is 
an  institution  belonging  to  the  race,  though  in  most 
its  low  origin  and  lower  instincts  appear  as  they  are, 
without  the  tinsel  and  disguise  of  modern  western 
society.  It  is  the  devil,  ugly  and  disgusting  in  India 
and  everywhere  else  among  the  heathen.  It  is  the 
pretty  painted,  well-di’essed  devil  installed  in  the  par- 
lor in  the  West,  with  costly  robes  and  jewels  through 
which  its  true  nature  often  thrusts  itself  In  India 
dancing  is  the  special  art  of  prostitutes.  They  are  the 
priestesses  at  this  altar  of  Moloch.  These  nautch 
girls,  as  they  are  called,  are  arrayed  in  gauze  and  gold 
and  look  in  their  movements  as  mystic  as  the  imaginary 
form  of  “ will  o’  the  wisp.”  They  are  also  religious 
prostitutes  attached  to  the  heathen  temple  service 
called  “ Brides  of  God.”  The  god  Khundoba  al  >ne 
has  sixteen  hundred  such  to  do  his  service. 

The  temple  worship  is,  of  course,  exceedingly  inter- 
esting to  Occidentals,  but  this  interest  must  be  confined 
only  to  imagination,  for  the  first  glimpse  of  fact  dis- 


63 


pels  all.  The  temples  are  places  of  incarnate  wicked- 
ness.. where  lust  is  the  highest  and  most  adorned  deity. 
It  would  be  impossible  to  describe  them  as  they  are,  in 
the  presence  of  even  ordinary  decency.  The  most  out- 
rageous orgies  are  carried  on  in  the  name  and  authonty 
of  religion.  Husbands  bring  their  wiv^es  and  daugh- 
ters to  be  victims  to  the  lustful  rapacity  of  the  Rajahs, 
feeling  honored  if  their  vile  offspring  should  grace 
their  household.  But  all  these  institutions  are  dying 
under  their  own  poisonous  odors,  as  men  can  be  pois- 
oned by  the  carbonic  exhalations  of  their  own  lungs. 
But  this  has  no  victory  in  it  -srorth  a moment’s  jubila- 
tion, for  if  they  all  perish,  what  then?  only  if  possi- 
ble the  deeper  degradation  and  death  of  the  people. 
Death  has  hope  in  it»if  it  have  the  power  of  the  resur- 
rection also,  but  without  this,  not  even  hope  has  the 
boldness  to  throw  a ray  across  its  sepulchre. 

Even  the  royal  palaces  of  the  Rajahs  are  daily 
crumbling  into  ruin.  The  glory  of  the  Rajahs  is 
becoming  like  the  war  paint  and  feathers  of  the  Xorth 
American  Indian.  Another  strange  custom  to  the 
Westerner  is  the  mode  of  tonsorial  seiwice.  The  whole 
business  is  performed  anywhere.  The  barber  and  custo- 
mer may  choose  to  flop  down  in  the  dust  of  the  street, 
or  in  the  gutter,  or  at  the  root  of  the  nearest  tree. 
They  sit  bent  at  the  knees  in  a position  that  only  one 
word  used  in  some  localities  will  describe,  on  “ their 
hunkers,”  and  shave  and  be  shaved,  cut  and  be  cut, 
lather  and  be  lathered  until  the  performance  ends  by 
limitation  of  time.  The  face  is  shaved  and  the  head 
as  well.  Sometimes  there  is  a clearing  made  on  the 
crown  only,  wdiich  style  was  described  by  a little  boy 
who,  when  the  barber  asked  him  how  he  would  have 
his  hair  cut,  said,  “ with  a little  round  hole  on  the 
top  of  my  head  like  papa’s.” 


CHAPTER  VI. 


MOVING  NORTHWARD. 

The  eye  reluctantly  turns  from  Bombay  and  its 
scenes,  fearing  that  its  like  may  not  be  beheld 
again.  This  would  be  no  great  surprise,  for  such 
spots  cannot  be  numerous.  The  medium  through 
w’hich  all  is  seen  in  this  far  Easterly  land  lends  en- 
chantment to  the  view.  It  is  a gentle  mist,  a veil 
hung  between  that  softens  the  rough  outlines  of  all 
things.  Nothing  through  it  can  be  ugly  save 
crooked  human  conduct.  The  mountains  are  pro- 
portioned to  each  other  and  are  supplemental. 
They  are  not  shaggy  with  overhanging  ledges,  but 
with  well-finished  sides,  brought  to  graceful  lines, 
and  dome-shaped — finished  is  the  word.  Nature 
took  her  time  on  these  hills,  they  are  not  the  results 
of  upheavals,  but  of  slow  processes,  built  out  of 
many  grains,  laid  in  place  by  still  waters.  Soon 
all  is  left  behind,  but  not  in  disappointment;  new 
and  surprising  scenes  come  and  go,  each  showing 
peculiar  beauties.  It  is  like  a shifting  panorama  of 
dissolving  views. 

The  railways  of  India  are  not  obliged  to  sneak 
through  backways  and  outways  on  account  of  the 
dreariness  of  the  land,  for  there  is  no  such  land ; all  is 
good  and  all  alike  beautified  by  the  prodigal  hand  of 
a Maker  whom  giving  doth  not  impoverish  and 
withholding  doth  not  enrich.  The  Bombay  and 
Baroda  road  is  one  of  the  best  in  any  land.  The 
most  complete  system  of  railways  in  any  country  is  to 

64 


65 


be  found  in  India.  They  have  been  built  in  a coun- 
try almost  ready  to  receive  the  rails,  over  government 
land,  for  all  lands  here  belong  to  the  government,  and 
are  only  leased  to  the  people  on  a tax  rate.  The 
tracks  are  well  ballasted.  The  stations  are  palaces, 
located  in  the  midst  of  tropical  gardens,  equal  often- 
times to  the  best  botanical  gardens  in  Europe  and 
America.  The  distances  traversed  are  as  wonderful 
as  in  our  own  country,  though  there  is  no  line  so  long 
as  those  to  the  Pacific.  But  the  system  over  which 
we  travel  extends  from  Bombay  to  the  Himalayas,  on 
the  border  of  Afghanistan,  more  than  two  thousand 
miles,  and  in  the  shape  of  a Y,  to  the  extreme  south 
of  the  Empire,  three  thousand  more,  all  these  roads 
extending  to  the  limits,  cross  each  other  at  every 
strategic  point.  The  rates  on  them  are  exceedingly 
low,  not  quite  three  cents  for  first-class,  and  less  than 
two  cents  second  class,  and  third  class,  on  which  the 
people  travel,  less  than  one  cent  in  our  money. 

The  country  is  one  vast  plain,  the  bed  of  ancient 
seas,  as  large  as  the  present  bed  of  the  Indian  Ocean, 
which  probably  occupied  it  once,  and  which  rolled 
itself  over  on  its  other  side  to  sun  itself,  or  for  public 
convenience.  The  coast  lines  appear  for  more  than 
fourteen  hundred  miles  on  the  west.  Boulders  lie  as 
they  were  left,  and  tide  marks  are  distinctly  seen. 
Islands,  which  once  lifted  their  heads  above  the  deep, 
built  of  boulders,  pebbles  and  sand,  still  stand  in  the 
midst  of  this  great  plain.  The  country  is  covered, 
where  not  cultivated,  with  palms,  banyans  and  other 
varieties  of  beautifying  and  fruit  bearing  trees,  of 
every  tropical  variety.  Along  the  lagoons  are  cotton 
woods  of  prodigious  proportions.  These  lagoons  are 
not  the  gatherings  of  w aters  from  springs,  but  the  cis- 


G6 


terns  holding  the  treasures  of  the  rainy  seasons  until 
they  are  dried  away  to  black  mud,  which  the  beasts 
will  lick  for  the  remaining  moisture  Avhen  the  dry  sea- 
son nears  its  end.  The  animals  and  serpents  are  often 
famishing,  and  are  found  at  these  cisterns  fighting 
and  devouring  each  other  for  the  remaining  drops, 
elephants,  buffalos,  tigers,  wolves  and  boa  constrictors, 
down  to  the  little  ground  snakes.  Monkeys  without 
number  and  distinction  chatter  and  play  tricks  on  the 
more  clumsy,  credulous  and  solemn  crowds.  It  is  a 
menagerie  and  circus  combined.  The  monkeys  are  in 
great  numbers  along  the  way,  chasing  each  other  over 
the  tree  tops  or  on  the  ground,  sitting  on  the  fences  look- 
ing curiously,  and  seemingly  chattering  over  the  pecu- 
liarities of  the  passengers  and  their  smoke  machine, 
sometimes  ridiculing  the  whole  performance,  perhaps 
laughing  at  the  cut  of  their  garments  as  comparing 
unfavorably  with  their  own  hairy  coverings.  ,One 
feels  it  when  in  the  presence  of  a couple  of  hundred 
great,  strapping,  iron-grey  haired  monkeys,  looking 
with  contempt  at  an  artificial  crowd  of  barbarians 
with  “ store  clothes”  instead  of  long  sleek  hair,  with 
gloved  hands  instead  of  hair-covered. 

The  most  ridiculous  feature  to  this  inspecting  mass 
was  that  this  crowd  in  their  moving  box  had  no  long 
supple  tails  to  coil  up  for  a cushion  to  sit  upon  or  to 
hold  on  by  when  all  else  was  slipping.  The  monkeys 
pitied,  ridiculed  and  discussed  how  it  came  about; 
some  thought  they  might  have  them  covered ; but  the 
old  ones  said,  “ What  good  would  prehensiles  do  them 
if  they  were  covered  up  ?”  Others  thought  they  had 
lost  them,  but  how  was  the  question.  “ What  queer  look- 
ing heads  and  faces  they  have ! What  sharp  noses  and 
thin  jaws,  and  did  you  ever  see  such  a looking  thing  as 


67 


they  have  on  their  heads  ? How  can  they  scratch  them 
when,  they  itch  ?”  Probably  some  old  woman  mon- 
key said,  “ I never  saw  such  a looking  crowd  and  such  a 
get  up  in  all  my  born  days and  at  the  close  of  some 
meditation  on  this  remark  they  all  got  up  and  scamp- 
ered. The  natives  will  not  kill  or  even  disturb  these 
pests ; they  are  the  objects  of  worship  and  have  immuni- 
ties not  granted  to  mortals;  ‘they  go  where  and  when 
they*  please,  and  appropriate  whatever  serves  taste  and 
fancy.  Some  of  them  are  as  tall  as  a boy  of  six  years 
old,  and  if  one  chooses  to  vault  on  one’s  bed  he  does  it 
in  a dignified  way  without  the  slightest  embarrassment. 
The  tenant  of  the  quarters  does  the  yelling,  never  the 
monkey,  who  deigns  not  even  a word  of  salutation. 
If  he  chooses  to  take  possession  ol  the  drawing- 
room he  will  lift  and  examine  the  bric-a-brac, 
and  replace  without  injury,  if  he  likes.  If  he  feels 
'disgruntled  he  will  dash  them  into  fragments,  or 
if  he  fancies  will  hand  them  out  at  the  window  to  his 
* pals,”  who  always  keep  a sharp  w*atch  for  danger, 
and  they  are  carried  off,  perhaps  to  be  dropped  when 
his  curiosity  and  love  of  mischief  are  gratified. 

These  monkeys  are  vengeful,  and  if  an  injury  has 
been  inflicted  will  waylay  and  attack  without  mercy, 
sometimes  killing  the  offender  against  {heir  rights  or 
caprices.  In  this  country,  where  enmities  exist  among 
the  people  as  nowhere  else,  the  monkey  is  used  as 
the  avenger.  If  one  neighbor  has  a spite  against 
another  and  wishes  in  common  parlance  “ to  get  even” 
he  sows  rice  on  the  tiled  roof  of  his  neighbor  in  the 
nig*ht,  and  the  monkeys  quickly  understand,  for 
they  are  always  scampering  over  the  roofs  of  the 
houses.  A hundred  or  more  will  appear,  and  to  get 
the  rice  will  pull  off  every  tile  and  throw  it  down. 


68 


In  a half  hour  the  largest  buildings  will  be  unroofed, 
and  there  is  no  stopping  it,  for  they  are  in  force  not 
only  strong  enough  to  defend,  but  to  avenge  all 
attack. 

Ahmedabad  is  the  first  considerable  city  we  came 
to  after  a night’s  run  northward  from  Bombay.  It  is 
the  largest  in  the  district  of  Guzerat,  and  is  an  an- 
cient landmark  in  the  history  of  India.  It  is  sur- 
rounded by  walls  faced  with  brick,  backed  with  clay 
embankments,  and  was  supposed,  in  its  day,  to  be 
impregnable.  Within  these  exterior  walls  are  laby- 
rinthian  defences,  so  that  when  driven  from  the  outer 
ones  the  besieged  could  take  refuge  in  these,  and  pro- 
tect themselves  in  the  very  heart  of  the  city.  This  place 
is  famous  for  its  architectural  and  wood  carvings,  and 
the  art  still  exists,* but  not  to  the  extent  and  perfec- 
tion of  the  past.  Pillars,  cornices,  doors  and  gate- 
ways, walls  and  finishings  of  temples,  everywhere  there 
are  the  remains,  now  in  decay,  of  carvings  as  exquisite 
and  wonderful  as  the  sculptured  marbles  of  Athens. 
The  Athenians  made  the  marble  speak,  the  artists  of 
Guzerat  made  the  wood  and  even  bricks  to  look  as 
if  starting  into  life. 

At  a factory  which  we  visited  there  was  in  process 
of  finishing  a carving  for  the  Art  Exposition  in  Glas- 
gow which  one  could  scarcely  believe  was  the  work 
of  fingers,  and  feet,  for  many  of  these  wood  carvers 
hold  the  pieces,  which  they  so  marvellously  chisel,  be- 
tween their  feet  instead  of  in  a vise  and  sometime 
between  their  toes.  Under  the  same  sheds,  for  this  is  all 
that  is  needful  in  India  for  a factory,  were  rug  workers 
producing  the  finest  and  most  expensive  carpets  with 
ihe  simplest  machinery,  blending  the  mofct  exquisite 
shades  and  contrasts  oi  color  wiin  the  fingers.  These 


69 


finest  products  find  a market  in  New  York  and  other 
American  cities  and  are  so  slowly  produced  that 
orders  were  far  ahead  of  their  ability  to  supply.  The 
father  of  the  present  proprietor  of  this  factory  built 
the  finest  Jain  temple  in  this  part  of  India,  which 
probably  has  few  superiors  of  its  kind  in  all  the  Em- 
pire. It  is  to  the  natives  a holy  place,  and  visitors  are 
' expected  to  remove  their  shoes  before  entering.  As  it 
was  a rainy  day  and  the  courts  very  wet  we  had  not  the 
sacrificing  spirit  sufficient  to  remove  the  shoes,  so  the 
grand  structure  was  viewed  from  the  door.  Its  carvings 
were  peerless,  its  altars  covered  with  gold,  and  candles 
burned  thereon,  reminding  one  of  the  Papal  churches 
of  Italy.  The  city  has  multitudes  of  Jains,  and  every- 
where are  contrivances  for  feeding  the  birds  and  ani- 
mals— this  is  a part  of  their  religion.  This  sect  is  a 
modified  remnant  of  the  Buddhists  in  India.  These 
feeding  places  are  in  jiublic  squares  and  at  the  corners 
of  the . streets  and  are  sometimes  quite  elaborately 
carved,- looking  like  the  square  pulpits  in  some  of  the 
old-time  churches.  The  birds  as  well  as  the  animals 
know  their  times  and  places  to  come  swooping  down. 
The  heavens  are  black  with  them,  for  this  has  been 
the  custom  for  centuries,  and  they  come  by  instinct, 
habit  and  example.  The  crows  are  the  noisiest  and  are 
very  numerous  in  India,  and  their  “ caws”  are  heard 
day  and  night ; they  come  for  miles  and  by  thousands. 
Parrots  and  other  birds  of  beautiful  plumage,  spar- 
rows by  the  host,  doves  clad  in  uniforms  of  soft  gray, 
chickens,  geese,  ducks,  dogs,  rats,  mice,  rabbits,  pea- 
cocks, little  gray  squirrels  by  the  thousand  and 
every  thing  that  hath  life,  and  “these  all  wait  for 
their  meat  in  due  season.”  They  claw  and  strike, 
bite  and  fight  with  each  other,  but  it  is  a rare 


70 


sight  and  one  out  of  which  the  benevolent  could  get 
much  happiness,  especially  when  by  it  he  feels  that 
he  can  lay  up  in  store  great  merit  to  himself  for  the 
final  adjustment  of  life  and  its  affairs. 

Ahmedabad  is  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river 
Sabermuttee,  which,  in  the  rainy  season,  is  miles  wide, 
but  in  winter  is  narrowed  down  to  a thread.  The 
remnant  of  a bridge  is  here,  which  has  been  in  years 
past  a grand  affair,  but  now  only  two  ends  remain, 
the  floods  having  disposed  of  the  rest.  But  looking 
from  off  this  embankment  toward,  the  sunsettinff  a 
scene  is  presented  strangely  fascinating  to  the  Occi- 
dental, as  surpassing  all  experiences  of  the  kind.  The 
sky  is  cloudless,  only  veiled  in  that  mystic  mist  so 
peculiar  to  this  land.  It  is  a subduing  medium  which 
reduces  the  disproportions  of  things  into  beauty  and 
symmetry.  It  hangs  like  a flowing  veil  between  the 
monarch  of  the  skies  and  the  beholder,  as  if  unseen 
angel  hands  were  drawing  it  closer  as  the  sun  retires 
from  the  gaze  of  this  part  of  the  world  to  lie  down  in 
his  chamber.  His  visage  grows  flushed  as  if  abashed 
as  he  makes  his  adieux.  The  sky  is  streaked  with 
long  shafts  of  light  which  hasten  after  him  in  his 
departure.  Nature  is  hushed,  birds  seek  their  perches, 
the  stately  \vhite  oxen  come  home  and  the  bullocks 
return  on  their  last  journey  with  the  water-skins  flung 
over  their  backs  filled  at  the  sacred  stream.  Silence 
creeps  over  the  scene  as  the  sun  j^asses  beyond  the 
horizon,  leaving  only  the  shimmerings  of  his  halo  be- 
hind him.  Men  bow  before  the  wayside  altars  and 
make  their  strange  idolatrous  offerings,  but  the 
Mohammedan  turns  his  back  even  on  the  sun  that  he 
may  adore  the  God  who  is  without  form,  a Spirit  to  be 
worshipped  in  spirit  and  in  truth.  Such  is  a sunset 
scene  at  Ahmedabad. 


71 


The  district  of  Guzerat  in  the  Punjab  has  the  great- 
est variety  of  beauty  and  fertility.  Some  portions 
are  clothed  with  impenetrable  forests,  the  trees  bending 
wdth  the  gorgeous  luxuriance  of  the  land  of  constant 
sunshine.  Vines  cling  to  them  and  adorn  the  desert  of 
four  hundred  miles  lying  between,  without  forage  or 
water.  temple  one?  occupied  a peninsula  con- 
nected with  the  mainland  by  an  isthmus  fortified 
and  guarded.  The  Mohammedans,  in  one  of  their 
conquests,  charged  upon  it  with  the  cry,  “ God  „ 
is  great,”  and  were  twice  repulsed,  while  the  fol- 
lowers of  Sur  exulted  in  the  power  of  their  God; 
but  at  the  third  charge  the  Mohammedans  carried  the 
walls.  The  priests  plead  hard  that  their  splendid  tem- 
ple might  be  spared,  and  offered  its  weight  in  gold  for 
the  preservation  of  its  idol.  The  reply  was  a stroke 
of  Mahmood’s  battle-axe,  and  his  attendants  doing 
the  same  the  idol  fell  in  pieces.  It  was  hollow  and 
filled  with  treasures  of  great  value,  in  diamonds  and 
other  costly  jewels,  which  accounted  for  the  solicitude 
of  the  priests.  The  spoils  exceeded  those  of  any  other 
campaign  of  the  Mohammedans. 

In  the  Guzerat  district,  with  Ahmedabad  as  a cen- 
tre, are  located  the  missions  of  the  Irish  Presbyterian 
Church,  in  many  respects  the  best  organized,  best 
conducted  and  most  prosperous  in  this  empire  of 
heathenism.  The  Irish  Presbyterians,  in  a Church 
movement,  came  late  in  the  field,  though  Irishmen 
wrought  almost  from  the  first.  The  territory  of  the 
present  mission  w^as  first  occupied  by  the  London  Mis- 
sionary Society  in  1815,  and  its  misssionaries,  from  their 
advent,  devoted  themselves  to  the  work  of  translating 
the  Scriptures.  The  press  established  by  Mr.  Skinner 
still  exists,  and  is  known  as  the  Surat  Mission  Press, 


72 


and  through  more  than  half  a century  it  has  sent  out 
the  leaves  of  the  Tree  of  Life  for  the  healing  of  the 
nations.  The  Board  of  Missions  of  the  Presbyterian 
Church  of  Ireland  in  1840  chose  the  Peninsula  of 
Kathianar,  and  in  1841  Rev.  James  Glasgow  and  the 
Rev.  Andrew  Ker,  both  educated  in  Belfast,  were 
assigned  to  its  duties,  but  Mr.  Ker  was  called  to  his 
coronation  soon,  and  Mr.  Glasgow  was  left  alone.  He 
was  reinforced  by  his  brother  and  Messrs.  Mont- 
. gomery,  McKee  and  Speei’s.  Their  first  success  led 
to  their  first  discomfiture;  a learned  and  influential 
Mohammedan  w.is  convinced  of  the  truth  of  the  Chris- 
tian religion  and  was,  in  1843,  baptized  with  all  the 
male  members  of  his  family.  The  excitement  pro- 
duced by  this  was  so  great  that  the  native  government 
required  the  withdrawal  of  the  missionaries. 

In  1859  the  Mahi  Kanta  mission,  which  had  been 
established  in  1844  in  a most  important  field,  was 
handed  over  to  the  Irish  Presbyterian  mission  by  the 
London  Missionary  Society,  which  left  Guzerat  alto- 
gether. This  is  now  known  as  the  Borsad  mission. 
The  Propagation  Society  withdrew  from  Ahmedabad, 
and  this  station  was  taken  by  the  Presbyterians  in 
1861.  The  Irish  mission  has  had  good  business  sense 
and  a better  comprehension  of  the  demands  of  their 
situation  than  most  missionaries.  They  have  acquired 
a large  tract  of  real  estate  on  most  favorable  terms 
from  the  English  government.  It  is  growing  in  value, 
and  the  time  will  come  when  it  Avill  be  a source  of 
revenue  to  the  Church.  But  beyond  all  this  the  wis- 
dom of  this  acquisition  becomes  daily  more  apparent. 
One  of  the  greatest  hindrances  to  mission  work  in  con- 
versions IS  the  boycotting  resulting  from  caste,  which  is 
relentless,  and  must  be  faced  by  the  missionaries  and 


73 


every  convert  from  heathenism.  These  missionaries 
have  provided  against  this  by  the  possession  of  nearly 
two  thousand  two  hundred  and  six  acres  of  the  best  land 
in  the  Punjab.  This  sheltered  their  converts  from 
persecution,  and  enabled  the  mission  to  segregate 
them  from  the  temptations  of  their  former  friends  and 
associations.  It  gives  an  opportunity  to  impart  mod- 
ern ideas  of  agriculture  and  keeps  them  under  Chris- 
tian government.  Small  Christian  communities  w’ere 
formed,  one  settled  on  one  hundred  acres  at  Brook- 
hill,  near  Borsad,  where  are  about  fifteen  Christian 
farmers  who  are  self-supporting.  Another  is  near 
Annan,  another  at  Bhalaj,  others  not  far  away,  the 
whole  comprising  about  forty  Christian  farmers.  One 
thousand  acres  have,  within  the  last  three  or  four 
years,  been  obtained  from  the  British  government 
eight  miles  north  of  the  famous  shrine  of  Dakore, 
This  territory  is  being  rapidly  occupied  by  converts 
through  the  blessed  work  of  this  active  mission.  Even 
heathenism  must  give  way  before  the  gospel,  vital 
godliness  and  sanctified  business  sense.  Only  the 
principles  along  the  lines  on  which  these  Christian 
men  and  women  work  need  be  given,  the  thoughtful 
can  easily  construct  the  ratios  of  outcome. 

The  educational  work  is  kept  up  well  abreast  with 
their  more  direct  soul-saving  efiorts.  Several  of  the 
schools  were  visited  and  with  satisfaction.  The  one  for 
boys  at  Ahmedabad  both  in  buildings  and  pupils  would 
average  well  with  schools  in  any  European  country. 
The  scholars  were  well  advanced  in  their  studies,  and 
showed  more  general  knowledge  outside  of  their  text- 
books than  most  scholars  in  Hindu*schools.  There  are 
several  schools  in  the  city  taught  by  educated  natives, 
but  superintended  by  Miss  McDowell,  who  has  also  a 


74 


large  class  in  English  of  Parsee  women.  In  addition 
to  the  prescribed  studies,  required  by  the  government, 
they  memorize  their  catechism  and  recite  daily  a chap- 
ter in  the  “ Peep  of  Day,”  and  prizes  are  offered  for 
excellence  in  these  and  needle  work,  in  all  of  which 
many  excel. 

Too  much  marriage  is  the  curse  of  the  country,  it 
is  about  all  the  variety  they  have.  Girls  in  the 
schools,  anywhere  from  five  years  to  fifteen,  have  their 
teeth  dyed  red,  which  is  the  sign  of  betrothal.  One 
of  the  brightest  of  these  was  shockingly  deformed  in 
one  foot  and  leg,  and  as  there  are  but  few  garments 
under  which  to  hide  disfigured  members,  and  they 
very  thin,  one  gets  as  much  insight  into  deformity  as 
he  can  well  endure.  She  walked  with  a crutch,  but 
in  India  the  law  of  compensation  exists,  'and  disabilities 
are  evened  with  abilities  by  the  use  of  cash;  so  this  cripple 
was  married,  her  parents  having  supplied  a “ golden 
leg,”  on  which  the  bliss  of  married  life  could  be  sustained. 
There  is  no  end  to  this  matrimonial  nuisance.  The 
substance  of  a family  is  often  all  put  into  the  enter- 
tainment of  the  guests  on  such  occasions.  One  is  re- 
minded of  the  exegesis  of  the  negro  preacher  on  the 
text,  “And  though  after  my  skin,  worms  destroy 
this  body,  yet  in  my  flesh  shall  I see  God.” 
Said  he,  “The  first  thing  about  this  text  is  skin 
worms,  the  second  is  w*hat  they  done,  and  the  last 
is  what  the  man  saw  after  he  "was  eat  up.”  This 
last  division  is  realized  to  everlasting  perfection 
in  India.  After  a marriage  the  history  of  the  family 
is  involved  in  “ what  they  see  after  they  are  eat  up.” 
Money  is  borrowed  on  extortionate  interest  from  some 
son  of  Jacob,  who  takes  a mortgage  not  only  on  all  the 
effects,  but  on  life  itself,  and  when  the  father  dies  the 


oldest  son  must  step  into  his  father’s  place  and  con- 
tinue paying  for  his  sister’s  marriage  festivities.  An- 
other peculiarity  is  that  while  the  family  wastes,  the 
principal  and  interest  of  that  loan  never  do. 

There  is  a medical  department  in  the  mission  work 
under  the  care  of  Dr.  McGeorge,  which  is  growing  in 
importance,  both  in  the  relief  it  affords  to  suffering 
women  and  in  the  opportunities  for  seed  sowing.  Miss 
McGeorge  treats  thirteen  hundred  cases  every  month, 
many  of  her  patients  being  of  the  most  distressed 
class  in  India — widows.  One  day  as  they  were  being 
told  of  happiness,  “Happiness,”  said  one,  “where  is 
that  to  be  found?”  Healing  and  instruction  go 
together ; while  the  patients  are  waiting  they  are  in- 
structed and  prayed  for,  and  often  the  relief  to  their 
poor  oppressed  hearts  does  them  more  good  than  all 
the  medicines  of  the  dispensary.  One  of  the  valuable 
helpers  in  this  mission  is  Dr.  Hobb,  a civil  surgeon 
and  magistrate  under  the  English  government.  He 
teaches  in  the  mission  school,  helps  in  every  possible 
way,  through  his  medical  services  and  private  means. 
It  was  he  who  identified  the  body  of  Dr.  Livingstone 
when  it  had  been  carried  by  faithful  servants  from  the 
heart  of  Africa — it  was  identified  by  the  shape  of  the 
skull  and  a broken  arm,  which  had  been  badly  set  by 
himself  after  a contest  with  a lion. 

The  mission  at  Ahmedabad  is  under  the  care  of 
Rev.  George  P.  Taylor  and  his  wife,  model  mission- 
aries in  fitness  for  the  work  and  diligence  in  it.  Mr. 
Taylor  has  three  services  on  the  Sabbath,  two  in 
Guzerat  and  one  in  English.  Mrs.  Taylor  has  super- 
intended the  schools  for  years,  both  in  Ahmedabad 
and  the  country  out-stations.  She  has  also  singing 
classes  and  other  instruction  for  women  and  children. 


76 


Her  patience  was  sorely  tried,  hoAvever ; her  popularity 
became  her  toiment,  for  the  girls  under  her  instruction 
were  so  much  in  demand  for  wives  that  she  could  not 
keep  them  in  school  until  examinations  were  over. 
She  had,  too,  other  embarrassments  through  the  distin- 
guished attentions  of  friends.  One,  a magistrate  of  a 
neighboring  town,  when  she  visited  the  schools,  in- 
sisted on  sending  his  mounted  servant  behind  the  car- 
riage, not  only  to  insure  her  safe  arrival  at  home,  but 
to  do  her  honor.  The  people  on  account  of  the  re- 
tinue were  so  profound  in  their  salaams  that  she 
requested  him  not  to  give  her  such  distinguished 
attentions.  But  being  of  a facetious  turn  at  her  next 
visit  he  perpetrated  a joke.  As  she  was  driving 
homeward  the  people  were  prostrating  themselves  on 
every  side,  and  finally  she  asked  the  driver,  “ What 
is  the  matter  with  the  people  to-day.”  “Look  back, 
madam,”  was  the  reply.  Doing  this  she  saw  a camel 
with  mounted  attendant  following,  which  is  in  this 
country  everywhere  regarded  as  an  indication  of 
dignity  and  nobility.*  Though  a practical  joke  there 
was  a fitness  in  it,  for  who  are  the  true  nobles  but  those 
who  devote  life  to  the  up-raising  of  down-trodden 
humanity,  and  its  exaltation  into  the  highest  and 
truest  nobility? 

There  is  a good  school  work  in  Surat  under  the 
direction  of  Miss  A.  M.  Shaw,  daughter  of  the  vener- 
able and  able  Dr.  Shaw,  pastor  of  Belfast,  especi- 
ally interesting  because  of  the  zenana  work  among 
Parsee  women.  The  Parsees  are,  in  many  respects, 
the  most  hopeful  people  in  India  in  freedom  from  caste 
restrictions,  and  are  more  enlightened  and  intelligent, 
but  this  is  of  little  value  in  reaching  dark  souls.  The 
human  heart  is  the  same,  and  all  efforts  at  moral  im- 


77 


provement  must  be  alike  radical — nothing  has  ever 
modified  the  divine  necessity,  “Ye  must  be  born 
again” — but  along  this  dividing  line  the  zenana  work 
is  having  encouragment,  and  the  faithful  teachings 
given  are  not  without  their  rewards.  One  of  the  strange 
paradoxes  in  the  history  of  the  Church  is  that  she  has 
suffered  as  much  from  her  own  professed  followers  as 
from  the  most  hostile  of  her  foes.  Perhaps  these  are 
only  counter-irritants  to  quicken  the  activities  of  her 
l)ody ; a mustard  plaster  is  a remedial  contrivance  if 
applied  at  the  right  time  and  place.  Thus  the  Salvation 
Army  of  India  has  given  the  Irish  mission  a lively 
series  of  counter-irritants,  nor  have  the  repeated 
applications  from  these  ecclesiastical  gypsies  been 
without  effect.  Irish  nerves  lie  close  to  the  surface, 
but  the  irritations  they  received  in  Guzerat  were  deep 
enough  to  inflame  the  marrow  of  their  bones.  Though 
not  personally  approving  of  the  proceedings  of  these 
religionists  we  have  been  disposed  to  put  a charitable 
construction  upon  their  vagaries,  as  perhaps  influenc- 
ing for  good  a class  not  otherwise  reached.  But  we 
are  compelled  to  announce  that  in  India  they  have 
done  apparently  not  much  but  mischief.  To  this  end 
they  have  put  off  their  nationality  and  what  little 
civilization  they  had,  and  appear  like  beggars.  Be- 
side denuding  themselves  of  sufficient  covering  they 
gad  about,  barefooted,  bare-legged  tramps,  who,  if 
not  too  much  demoralized,  ought  to  despise  them- 
selves, and  deserve  no  better  than  to  be  despised  by 
the  heathen  for  the  shallowness  that  hopes  to  win  men 
from  their  religion  by  going  about  half-naked. 

Ritualism  attempts  to  convert  the  world  by  an  ex- 
cess of  vestments,  and  the  Salvationists  by  their  more 
than  semi-nudity.  It  does  not  seem  so  out  of  place 


78 


for  dark  skins  to  be  exposed  in  India,  but  for  white 
flesh  it  is  indecent  and  requires  some  demoralization  be- 
fore modest  men  and  women  can  expose  themselves  in 
such  ways.  Salvation  by  “store  clothes,”  or  salva- 
tion without  clothes  are  alike  objectionable.  The 
efforts  ot  the  Salvationists  have  been  largely  directed 
to  the  unsettling  and  dismemberment  of  the  congre- 
gations gathered  by  the  missionaries,  and  the  result 
has  been,  in  many  instances,  disastrous,  and  nowhere  is 
this  more  apparent  than  in  Guzerat.  The  partially  en- 
lightened people  were  swept  from  their  first  convic- 
tions and  have  wandered  hopelessly  ever  since,  for 
barefooted  and  bare-legged  Christianity  has  neither 
the  ability  nor  patience  to  instruct  its  followers.  The 
Salvationists  do  not  learn  the  languages  of  the  coun- 
try and  are  not  proficient  in  their  own.  There  is 
nothing  left  for  them  except  to  raid  the  missions 
in  which  the  people  understood  a little  English, 
or  could  be  reached  by  drums  and  poor  interpreters. 
Hoary  heathenism  will  not  be  hived  as  bees  by  blow- 
ing horns  or  beating  tin  pans. 

One  of  the  most  blessed  of  the  Sabbaths  of 
our  journey  was  spent  in  Anan  during  the  ses- 
sions of  the  Presbytery.  Every  man  of  the  mis- 
sion was  present.  The  station  is  in  the  midst  of 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  fertile  spots  in  this 
country  of  peerless  beauty.  It  was  a drenching 
day,  the  windows  of  heaven  were  opened,  an  unusual 
and  disappointing  experience.  It  was  an  outpouring 
of  latter  rain.  The  session  of  Presbytery  was  held  at 
the  mission  over  which  the  Rev.  I.  T.  Steele  presides. 
Preparations  had  been  made  for  the  usual  number  in 
the  hmse  of  the  pastor,  supplemented  by  a large  tent 
in  the  yard.  But  room  was  quickly  made  for  the  un- 


79 


expected  guest,  in  the  abundance  of  Irish  Christian 
hospitality.  Nobody  appeared  to  be  disconcerted, 
though  somebody  had  evidently  surrendered  his  place, ' 
but  it  was  done  with  such  graciousness  that  it  was  im- 
possible for  the  guest  to  be  embarrassed.  No  exile 
ever  found  better  companionship,  and  it  would  be 
worth  while  to  be  an  exile  to  fall  into  such  associa- 
tions. There  were  present  the  Revs.  N.  R.  Scott, 
Rajkot;  R.  Boyd,  Gogo;  I.  Shillidy,  Surat;  R.  Gil- 
lespie, Borsad;  George  P.  Taylor,  Ahmedabad; 
Messrs.  Beatty,  Broach,  R.  W.  Sinclair  and  T.  Mc- 
Aulis. 

During  the  sessions  of  Presbytery  congregations 
gathered  to  hear  the  preaching  and  join  in  prayer 
and  praise.  On  the  Sabbath  the  people  came  from 
every  point  of  the  compass — a strange  and  bewildering 
sight,  for  no  such  congregation  had  ever  been  seen  by 
us,  or  even  conceived  in  fancy.  The  people  came 
mostly  on  foot,  though  some  were  in  carts  and  riding 
on  donkeys,  bringing  their  children  with  them — some 
of  them  coming  twenty  miles,  walking  all  the  way. 
The  church  was  filled  with  these  coffee-colored  people, 
w’ho  had  but  little  between  them  and  the  general  day- 
light in  the  way  of  clothing.  i\Iany  men  had  only  a 
girdle  about  their  loins,  their  backs,  breasts  and  limbs 
entirely  bare.  The  women  had  chuddas  or  “saris’’ 
drawn  around  their  persons.  But  there  was  some- 
thing indescribably  solemn  in  the  presence  of  this 
large  congregation  of  almost  naked  humanity.  It  but 
reiterated  the  commonplace  saying,  “ A man’s  a man 
for  a’  that.” 

The  church  had  a large  vestibule  supported  by  col- 
umns, from  which  the  doors  opened  into  the  audience 
chamber.  This  was  filled  with  men,  women  and  chil- 


80 


dren  sitting  on  the  plaster  pavement,  the  rain  beating 
against  their  bare  bodies  and  running  down  on  the 
floor  at  their  feet,  while  they  were  silently  waiting  for 
the  beginning  of  the  services  in  God’s  house.  Inside 
the  church  was  crowded,  the  women  on  one  side  and 
the  men  generally  on  the  other.  It  was  the  gathering 
of  the  Christians  of  several  stations  for  the  celebration 
of  the  Lord’s  Supper.  No  doubt  there  was  a striking 
resemblance  between  this  and  the  coming  together  of 
the  tribes,  over  hill  and  dale,  to  the  temple  feasts  in 
Palestine.  The,  services  were  in  the  order  observed 
in  Ireland,  but  never  was  the  Psalm,  “All  people  that 
on  earth  do  dwell,”  more  reverently  and  heartily 
sung.  It  produced  that  strange  cutaneous  tingle 
which  all  have  felt  and  none  can  describe,  generated  by 
the  highest  flights  of  eloquence  or  in  seasons  of  deepest 
religious  or  patriotic  feeling.  The  Scriptures  were 
read,  explained  and  commented  upon  to  men  and 
women  with  eyes  intent  on  the  sacred  page.  An  im- 
pressive sermon  was  preached,  and  though  not  a word 
was  intelligible  to  the  writer  its  effect  could  be  seen  in 
the  audience  so  entirely  subdued,  and  in  the  tears  that 
dropped  from  tender  eyes.  But  all  reached  a climax 
when  the  sacrament  of  baptism  was  administered  to  the 
children  and  converts  together.  F ifteen  men  and  women 
were  baptized,  most  of  them  men  from  twenty  to  fifty. 
They  stood  before  the  pulpit,  tall  and  slender,  with 
their  high  foreheads,  symmetrical  faces  and  long 
beards,  barefoot,  and  only  clothed  about  the  loins. 
Their  breasts  were  bared  to  the  falling  water,  which 
trickled  down,  while  with  uplifted  heads  and  closed 
eyes  they  seemed  to  be  in  fellowship  with  God.  After 
the  sacrament  of  baptism  came  the  Lord’s  Supper. 
It  too  was  an  unusual  experience — in  the  heart  of  India 


81 


to  be  receiving  the  emblems  of  His  body  broken,  and 
blood  shed,  not  alone  for  the  pale-faced  European, 
but  in  fellowship  with  the  dark-skinned  Asiatic,  a 
branch  of  the  parent  Aryan  stock,  from  which,  with 
all  our  variations,  we  have  departed.  It  was  a surj^ris- 
ing  realization  through  the  power  of  an  all  conque”’'ig 
Divine  love  of  the  wonderful  cosmopolitan  character 
of  the  religion  of  Jesus  Christ.  “ There  is  neither 
Greek  nor  Jew,  circumcision  nor  uncircumcision, 
barbarian,  Scythian,  bond,  nor  free.  But  Christ  is  all 
and  in  all.” 

In  torrents  of  rain  that  large  congregation  of  re- 
deemed heathen  separated  for  their  homes,  miles  away, 
but  happiness  went  with  them,  and  as  the  pitiless 
storm  spent  its  floods  on  their  naked  bodies  it  was  not 
hard  to  see  even  by  the  way  that  they  had  been  with 
Jesus.  The  faithful  men  and  wmmen,  far  from  their 
country,  are  not  without  tokens  of  Divine  favor,  for 
which  many  might  sigh  and  Cry,  in  costly  fabrics  with 
Gothic  roofs,  damasked  pews  and  tinted  windows. 
This  Irish  mission,  comparing  its  number  and  means 
of  support,  stands  in  the  first  rank  in  this  Empire  of 
heathenism. 


chapter  VII. 


\ 


TOWARDS  JEYPORE. 

Through  the  bed  of  a former  great  ocean  a 
narrow  gauge  railway  conveys  passengers  and 
traffic  from  the  north  and  south  of  the  Empire  of 
India.  The  few  outlines  within  the  range  of  vision  are 
those  made  by  the  lashings  and  deposits  of  the  ancient 
seas.  The  coast  lines  are  well-marked,  and  in  some 
places  look  as  if  they  had  been  left  to  dry  with  the  rip- 
ple marks  of  the  last  tides  upon  them.  • Waterless 
islands  rise  all  through  this  vast  plain  of  more  than  a 
thousand  miles.  Sometimes  the  way  almost  closes  up, 
showing  merely  the  narrow  place  of  outlet  of  one  sea 
into  another.  The  soil  is  good,  but  its  tillage  is  poor, 
except  along  the  railway,  where  there  are  evidences 
of  cultivation.  Wheat  fields  stretch  as  far  as  the  eye 
can  measure.  The  fences  along  the  road  are  of  im- 
mense cacti,  the  leaves  of  which  are  often  six  feet  high 
and  nearly  as  broad,  covered  with  thorns  so  sharp 
that  neither  man  nor  beast  could  touch  them  without 
the  severest  wounds.  The  houses,  if  by  any  stretch 
of  imagination  they  may  be  called  such,  are  most  of 
mud  and  brush,  or  brush  walled  and  plastered  with 
mud ; some  are  of  burnt  brick  and  stone.  These  are 
not  more  than  sixteen  to  twenty  feet  square,  and  the 
roofs  are  domed.  There  are  no  windows,  but  light 
and  air  are  admitted  through  holes  in  the  domes,  the 
object  being  to  exclude  the  hot  and  poisonous  air  of 
the  monsoons.  The  walls  are  thick,  to  insure  as  much 
coolness  as  possible.  The  native  is  in  no  sense  a 
fancy  farmer ; in  his  best  estate  he  lives  not  so  well  as 

82 


83 


American  pigs.  He  wallows  in  dust ; dirt  is  his  hap- 
piest accompaniment,  and  vermin  of  every  kind  are 
his  inseparable  companions ; few  can  bite  hard  enough 
even  to  make  him  scratch,  and  the  vermin  of  India 
are  not  weaklings.  But  the  native  manages  to  get 
good  crops,  he  knows  the  dirt  of  India  so  well  and  is 
so  allied  to  it  that  he  can  tickle  it  with  his  rude  in- 
struments until  it  will  give  out  its  best  products  in 
abundance.  The  earth  and  j^eople  alike  are  not  dis- 
posed to  be  overdisturbed,  hence  European  cultivation 
does  not  accomplish  in  any  ratio  corresponding  to  the 
expectations  of  experience.  But  the  country  is  luxuriant 
in  its  way  and  kind;  there  are  the  most  abundant 
fruits,  never  failing.  When  water  is  supplied  and  trees 
j^lanted  famine  in  India  will  be  among  the  legends  of  ■ 
sorrows  long  past.  North-west  through  the  bed  of 
seas  long  drained  is  every  kind  of  life,  animal,  vege- 
table and  human. 

In  the  morning,  after  a weary  night,  the  first  objects 
seen  in  the  gray  light  were  peasant’s  huts,  bronzed 
children,  a naked  mother  playing  with  the  youngsters, 
as  nude  as  herself;  near  by  were  two  other  women 
grinding  at  a mill,  that  is,  running  one  stone  over  an- 
other by  a pin  inserted  in  the  upper  one,  and  singing 
the  grinders’  ditty;  villagers  on  their  way  to  the 
labors  of  life  stopped  to  engage  in  service  to  their 
idols,  prostrating  themselves  before  the  reddened  Ling- 
stone,  or  the  marble  Bull  ol  Shiva,  depositing  a 
flower  or  a sweetmeat  or  nut ; the  creaking  of  water- 
wheels on  their  wooden  pinions  lifting  water  for  irri- 
gation by  bullocks,  the  barking  of  dogs,  the  cackling 
of  geese  and  quacking  of  ducks,  the  chatter  of  mon- 
keys, cawing  of  crows  and  screaming  of  parrots  in  the 
first  rays  of  a fire-red  sun  will  give  some  idea  of  an 
Indian  morning. 


84 


On  the  great  plain,  where  the  eye  turns  for  some  object 
above  a common  level,  suddenly  the  pilgrim  is  wheeled 
into  vision  of  grand  masses  of  mountains,  rising  out  of 
teak  and  acacia  jungles,  a highland  region  about  five 
thousand  feet  high  and  about  fifty  miles  in  circumference. 
This  is  one  of  the  gracious  provisions  of  a Providence 
'who  always  keeps  something  useful  and  grand  out  of 
the  wrecks  of  nations.  This  is  the  spot  of  relief  for 
the  sick  and  exhausted,  amid  the  blistering  air  of  the 
plains — it  is  Mount  Abu.  The  government  has  made 
it  accessible  for  the  suffering,  by  good  roads,  four 
thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  plains.  The  wild 
beast  recognizes  its  advantages  and  claims  partnership 
in  its  salubrious  air  and  splendid  scenery.  The  bears 
have  a sanitarium  here;  panthers  and  tigers  enjoy  too 
its  exhilarations.  The  natives  are  arrayed  in  gay 
colors,  the  shadows  of  evening  and  the  long  streaks 
of  sunshine  alternate  like  colors  in  a gay  fabric.  It 
is  a mountain  which  has  not  by  its  age  gone  into 
baldheadedness,  its  locks  are  youthful  and  abundant 
enough  to  cover  the  projections  of  its  stony  skeleton. 
At  its  base  the  trees  are  gracefully  fringed  with  vines, 
flowering  and  fruit-bearing — the  oleander  lends  its 
beauty  and  fragrance  to  the  air.  Peafowls  by  the 
hundreds  fly  or  spread  their  feathers,  giving  their 
beauties  to  the  gathered  treasures  that  overlie  this 
great  altar  wreathed  with  sunlit  mists  around  its 
sacred  precincts.  Fragments  of  ruined  art  and  archi- 
tecture lie  scattered  over  its  ascent. 

Kight  intervenes  and  cuts  ofi*  visions  and  descrip- 
tions, and  next  morning  the  wheels  trundle  through  the 
plains  and  by  the  mountain  sides  of  Eajputanna,  so  aged 
and  so  historic  and  with  a people  so  proud  of  inheritance 
through  blood  that  every  man  is  either  a king  or  born 


85 


to  be  one  if  anybody  wants  him  in  the  service.  Here 
most  of  old  India  remains,  having  stoutly  resisted 
English  innovations.  Rajputaima  means  “the  land 
of  the  king’s  children.”  In  the  clan  all  a^e  peers  and 
brothers,  and  marriages  within  the  clan  are  regarded 
as  incestuous;  hence  the  most  frightful  infanticide  of 
India  has  been  here,  the  cause  being  inability  to  find 
husbands  of  rank  and  the  disgrace  of  living  unmar- 
ried. 

As  the  famous  city  of  Jeypore  is  approached  it  is 
signaled  by  the  marble  built  hills  and  mountains, 
white  as  the  driven  snow  and  the  finest  in  its  particles 
in  the  world,  as  smoothly  and  easily  wrought  as  soap- 
stone. Jeypore  is  skirted  hy  rugged  hills  that  look 
like  white  monuments  reared  to  illustrious  dead  in 
some  forgotten  dynasty  of  the  world’s  greatness.  Vast 
furrows  are  cut  down  through  this  soft  stone,  the 
ridges  between  covered  with  tangled  vines  clinging  to 
stately  trees.  Streams  wander  down  through  the 
grooves  cut  by  centuries.  Upon  the  plains  at  the 
base  are  great  herds  of  antelopes,  and  red-headed  cranes 
are  on  the  margin  of  the  waters.  Nestling  under 
gorgeous  palms,  banyan,  tamarind  or  peepul  trees  are 
mud  villages  surrounded  by  mud  walls,  fringed  with 
striped  grass.  In  the  midst  of  the  grain  fields  is 
an  elevated  platform  built  on  forks  and  covered 
with  sticks  and  straw — this  is  the  outlook  for  birds  to 
be  scared  or  stoned  away,  or  they  would  make  quick 
work  Avith  the  grain  fields;  the  parrots  alone  Avould 
finish  it  in  a feAV  days.  Rajputanna  is  the  oldest  and 
richest  province  in  events  of  all  tho  Empire.  The  blue 
blood  of  the  Avorld  is  here,  it  is  blue-black  by  age  and 
general  ‘villainy.  It  is  declared  that  the  first  Rajput 
king  ruling  in  these  valleys  was  the  sun  himself,  who 


86 


was  the  father  of  Rama  Chundra,  the  hero  of  Ram- 
ayana  and  of  the  incarnation  of  Vishnu.  It  was  a great 
stoop  in  life  for  a Rajput  princess  to  marry  a great 
Mogul,  even  when  in  the  height  of  his  glory.  They 
have  been  the  bravest  of  the  country  ; whole  Iliads  of 
l;ieroic  measures  could  have  been  written  from  the  dar- 
ing deeds  and  matchless  loyalty  of  the  Rajput  clans- 
men. Nor  were  the  women  behind  the  men,  for  at 
Chittoi’,  in  these  same  highland  ranges,  fifteen  thou- 
sand Rajput  women'  “ suicided”  en  fnasse  rather  than 
lose  their  honor. 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

AN  INDIAN  CITY. 

JEYPORE  is  the  capital  of  a district,  is  clad  in 
■ beauty  and  full  of  heroisms,  devilment  and 
poetry,  and  is  a fair  embodiment  of  all  these  and  more. 
It  is  a fantastic  city,  filled  with  the  rags  and  fragments 
of  more  gorgeous  times.  It  is,  to  some  extent,  the 
materialization  of  overheated  Oriental  imaginations. 
It  is  sui  genei'is — an  intermixture  of  the  mouldy  past 
and  the  conceits  of  the  present,  for  the  greater  part 
was  fashioned  in  1728,  under  Jey  Singh,  but  even 
this  brought  forward  and  retained  much  of  the  past, 
or,  in  other  words,  it  shades  off  into  both  past  and 
present.  Here  the  painting  of  stone  in  water  color  is 
a high  art.  The  “town  is  painted  red,”  so  that  it  has 
been  named  “the  rose-red  city  of  Jeypore,  with  its 
beautiful  streets  and  fairy-like  palaces.”  The  station 
is  a mile  or  more  away,  but  in  sight  are  imposing  public 
buildings  on  a hill,  which  are  still  showing  evidences 
of  their  decoration  in  honor  of  the  Jubilee  of  Victoria, 
the  Empress  of  India.  The  roads  through  all  this 


87 


country  are  in  splendid  condition,  but  as  there  is  no 
rain  from  August  to  April  the  dust  is  insufferable. 

Along  the  streets  and  highways  there  are  trees 
with  great  outspreading  branches,  furnishing  shade 
for  almost  their  entire  length.  It  is  a strange  sight, 
the  heaving  multitudes  with  every  kind  of  obstruc- 
tion in  the  way,  moving  them  all  out  of  each  other’s 
road  as  if  by  magic ; teams  of  great  notched-back, 
white  oxen,  the  like  of  which  do  not  exist  anywhere 
but  in  India;  donkeys,  camels,  elephants,  modern 
carriages,  men  and  women  by  the  thousand,  'syith 
loads  often  three  or  four  times  their  own  bulk,  crowd- 
ing and  crowded  in  the  sweltering  mass,  in  all  kinds 
of  costumes  and  no  costumes,  dodging  between  men 
and  beasts,  but  moving  safely  to  their  destination. 
It  is  a sight  bewildering  to  the  coolest  and  most  in- 
genuous head.  The  city  is  from  the  central  square  one 
vista  of  pink  and  white,  or  tinted  white  marble,  look- 
ing as  if  it  were  marble  ornamented  with  coral,  a 
perspective  of  roseate  contrasts.  Many  of  the  build- 
ings have  been  gorgeous  in  their  day,  with  their  airy 
rows  of  light  pavilions,  with  columns  and  canopies 
embellished  with  frescoes  in  all  kinds  of  designs.  This 
street  is  in  length  more  than  two  miles,  one  hundred 
and  eleven  feet  wide,  and  is  in  its  effect  simply  mag- 
nificent. It  is  not  marred  by  any  irregularity  of  the 
houses,  either  too  far  in  or  out,  and  so  straight  is  it  in 
its  building  fronts  that  each  house,  palace  or  shop  can 
be  seen  on  both  sides  bending  in  the  long  stretch  of 
the  eye  to  the  parapet  of  the  distant  Kuby  Gate. 

Two  main  highways  of  decorated  buildings,  each  as 
wide  as  the  one  described,  cross  it  at  right  angles, 
forming  at  the  points  of  intersection  two  piazzas,  the 
**  Amber  Chank”  and  the  “ Kuby  Chank.”  Each 


88 


of  these  streets  is  a mile  and  a quarter  long  and  have 
the  same  white  and  pink  lines  of  fronts  the  whole 
length.  And  what  is  strangest  of  all,  almost  all  this 
beauty  is  a sham;  India  is,  architecturally,  the  coun- 
try of  magnificent  shams,  nature  has  done  so  much 
that  it  requires  only  a few  bamboo  poles  lashed  to- 
gether, with  branches  intertwined,  and  this  plastered 
and  tinted  with  water  colors,  to  make  a palace  for  a 
king.  Almost  all  this  architectural  finery  is  stucco, 
and  yet  the  efifect  is  of  rose-colored  alabaster.  The 
observer  is  confounded  in  seeing  that  in  the  midst  of 
mountains  of  the  finest  marble  in  the  world,  white  and 
colored,  with  which  the  famous  Pearl  Mosque  and 
the  Taj  have  been  erected,  there  are  few  buildings 
in  Jeypore  worthy  of  the  name  of  art  and  adorned 
with  this  matchless  stone.  In  the  northern  part  of 
the  great  street  between  the  two  squares  is  a pictur- 
esque palace  occupying,  with  its  gardens  and  zenanas, 
a seventh  of  the  area  of  the  entire  city.  Here  is  a 
stately,  tinted  tower  called  the  Istrilat,  and  a gate- 
way surmounted  by  a drum-houss  and  a museum. 

The  Maharajah’s  College  is  arcaded  in  the  Hindu 
Saracenic  style.  Near  is  an  edifice  called  Hawa 
Maahal,  or  Hall  of  the  Winds,  a fancy  of  an  un- 
bridled imagination,  nine  Stories  high,  and  exquisitely 
proportioned.  Balconies  overhang  the  gardens, 
pierced  marble  screens  and  gilded  arches  tempt  the 
lagging  winds  to  come  through  to  the  mitigation  of 
summer’s  heat.  The  Rajah’s  palaces  are  a combina- 
tion of  real  values  and  interminable  shams.  The 
Audience  Hall,  or  Hall  of  the  Nobles,  girdled  with 
marble  columns,  is  built  on  a platform  about  five  feet 
high,  extending  beyond  the  building  proper,  and  on 
this  is  a bewildering  series  of  arches  that  look  like 


89 


things  of  ai^,  or  arches  in  fancy.  The  pillars  on 
which  they  rest  are  of  the  purest  white.  This  great 

palace,  the  Hall  of  the  Xobles,  was  furnished  in  semi- 
European  style,  with  damask  sofas,  mirrors  and  paint- 
ings— the  whole  was  in  disorder,  as  cleaning  and  re- 
pairing were  going  on.  ' There  is  also  a handsome 
building,  a museum,  with  ceiling  of  glass  Mosaic, 
peculiar  to  the  country,  with  patterns  of  perplexing 
variety.  This  is  done  by  covering  mirror  glass  with 
plaster  and  cutting  from  the  designs  into  the  mirror 
glass,  so  that  when  the  sun  shines  through  the  figures 
it  seemed  like  designs  of  burnished  silver  sending 
their  overpowering  reflections  all  through  rooms. 

Another  palace,  about  seven  stories  high,  faces  a gar- 
den of  indescribable  loveliness.  It  seemed  to  be  open  on 
the  side  of  the  garden  through  all  its  stories ; porticoes 
running  its  entire  length  with  pillars  and  Saracenic 
arches  on  every  story.  All  the  furnishings  could  be 
seen  from  the  garden  ; whole  suites  are  covered  with  mir- 
rors. Upon  the  pavements  are  costly  Indian  rugs 
of  exquisite  workmanship. ' On  the  lower  step  of  each 
of  the  marble  stairways  rising  through  the  porticoes 
was  an  immense  dog,  almost  as  large  as  a tiger,  and 
by  him  his  keeper,  and  as  keeper  and  dog  had  watched  ^ 
through  the  night  they  were  both  sound  asleep.  The 
garden  is  the  realization  of  such  a picture  as  the 
genius  of  Milton  would  draw  for  Eden,  full  of  palms, 
pomegranates,  bananas,  acacias  and  every  tropical 
product  of  fruit  and  beauty,  with  the  waters  flowing 
through  stone  channels,  fountains  and  pools  in  which 
were  fish,  and  on  the  margins  beautiful  black  and 
white  swans,  and  others  with  variegated  plumage, 
and  amid  the  overhanging  branches  were  birds  of 
cheeriest  notes.  Beyond  this  gem  of  nature’s 


90 


choicest  products  is  the  palace  of  the  late  IMaha- 
rajah,  a fine  building,  more  subdued  in  style, 
substantial,  and  more  European  in  furnishings  than 
any  other  in  Jeypore.  It  is  just  as  the  last  royal 
tenant  left  it;  the  floors  within  were  covered  with 
carpets  and  over  these  dressed  were  skins  of  tigers  and 
leopards.  On  the  walls  were  some  fairly  good  pic- 
tures, and  from  the  ceiling  hung  numerous  chan- 
deliers of  crystal.  All  these  palaces  were  at  the  foot 
of  encircling  hills,  crested  with  bristling  forts  and 
peaceful  temples.  Nature  and  art  are  here  combined 
to  produce  miracles  of  beauty — a picture  to  feast  the 
sense  of  beauty  and  fever  the  imagination.  This  is 
India  of  the  Rajahs  in  her  inward  grace  and  her 
outward  adornments. 

To  the  lovers  of  beautiful  horses  the  royal  stables 
will  give  the  highest  interest.  There  are  about  fifteen 
or  twenty  choice  breeds.  The  Arabian  son  of  the  desert, 
almost  perfect  in  his  form  and  build,  but  who,  as  be- 
longing to  nobility,  is  just  like  them,  pampered,  idle, 
fat  and  unshapely  through  luxury.  These  horses  have 
nothing  else  to  do  except  to  eat,  and  to  be  groomed,  and 
to  be  haltered  by  both  fore  and  hind  feet.  There 
were  also  English  draught  horses,  Russians,  racers  from 
all  parts  of  the  earth,  Australians,  Italians,  Grecians 
and  Kentuckians,  all  out  of  shape  by  change  of  climate 
and  want  of  exercise  in  their  native  air. 

From 'horses  to  the  heavens  is  a somewhat  startling 
step,  but  when  they  are  in  close  continuity  it  cannot 
well  be  helped,  for  Rajahs  goto  extremes  just  as  wide. 
Within  the  second  gate  is  a great  square  with  marble 
pavilions,  and  overlooking  it  are  the  zenana  lattices, 
opposite  to  which  is  a temple  ofi'Vraj  Rai,  or  Krishna, 
and  the  astronomical  observatory  built  by  Jey  Singh, 


91 


who  founded  the  modern  city,  the  largest  of  five 
which  were  built  here  and  at  Delhi,  Mathura,  Benares 
and  Ugein,  in  the  eighteenth  century.  He  established 
the  obliquity  of  the  ecliptic  and  the  procession  of  the 
equinoxes,  and  encouraged  art  and  education  in  all 
their  branches.  He  constructed  a great  sun  dial,  king 
of  dials,  whose  gnomon  is  one  hundred  and  eighty-nine 
feet  high,  registering  the  true  sun  time,  and  also  the 
Chakra  Yantre,  or  Brazen  Circles,  to  determine  the 
declination  of  the  stars. 

Our  ascent  has  been  sudden  and  abrupt  into 
the  heavens,  but  not  being  quite  at  home  there 
the  descent  to  the  earth  again  and  to  the  cages 
of  wild  beasts  will  be  as  great  a surprise.  A part 
of  the  Rajput  capital  is  a lair  for  wild  beasts.  As 
all  animal  life  is  sacred  no  beast  is  a malefactor,  and 
therefore  his  existence  must  be  preserved ; so  there 
are  confined  eight  man-eating  tigers  taken  from  the 
jungles  and  hills.  They  are  terrific  beasts,  and  when 
human  beings  are  near  become  fiendish'  and  their  eye- 
balls like  orbs  of  fire.  They  dash  at  the  bars,  open 
their  red  mouths  and  roar  until  their  prison-house 
trembles.  Each  of  these  great  brindle  tigers  standing 
on  his  hind  feet  is  as  tali  as  a large  man,  and  each  has 
drunk  human  blood,  torn  and  devoured  human  flesh, 
and  has  a thirst  for  it  that  is  furious  and  appalling. 
One  monster  had  killed  seven  within  a few  days,  an- 
other ten,  and  a tigress  in  the  last  stall,  wild  with  her 
unsatiated  appetite,  was  known  to  have  devoured  a 
family  of  fifteen  men,  women  and  children.  Nobody 
will  kill  them,  not  even  if  they  had  their  children  in 
their  paws,  but  they  dig  pits  for  them,  where  the  tiger 
is  left  in  hunger  until  he  is  too  weak  to  resist  his 
captors. 


92 


There  are  the  ruins  of  a famous  city  called  Amber, 
the  name  indicating  the  god  Shiva,  located  about  eight 
miles  north  of  Jeypore,  which  must  be  reached  on 
the  backs  of  elephants.  It  was  an  ancient  capi 
tal  and  became  a city  during  the  twelfth  cen- 
tury. It  has  become  the  haunts  of  wild  beasts 
and  serpents  and  is  fast  being  buried  in  the  jungle, 
of  which  tigers  are  taking  possession.  It  is  sur- 
rounded by  water,  or  a marsh,  full  of  serpents  and 
water  fowl,  which  gives  out  deadly  malarias.  The  tem- 
ple of  Mahadeva  is  reached,  and  here  is  the  spectacle  of 
life  and  decay  in  strange  contrasts — a populous  city 
on  one  side  and  on  the  other  side  another  still  in  death. 
Almost  all  its  former  stone  mansions  have  tumbled  down, 
and  what  remain  are  only  mute  tell-tales  of  the  glory  of 
the  past.  Its  temples  are  covered  by  wild  growths  and 
the  ancient  highways  are  pre-empted  by  wild  fig  trees. 
This  great  city  has  grown  weary  and  sleepy,  and  has 
laid  itself  down  to  rest,  only  the  palace,  a few  despoiled 
temples  and  a fort  keep  weary  vigils  amid  the  dismal 
shades  of  decay  and  the  bowlings  of  wild  beasts.  But 
the  palace  looks  as  if  the  warmth  of  human  hands 
were  still  on  its  lintels  and  human  presence  giving  a 
reflex  life  to  its  polished  marble.  Bars,  portals  and 
niches  of  ornamented  marble  open  into  a second  court 
yard  laid  in  mosaics  of  red  and  white  marble,  in  keeping 
with  their  magnificent  surroundings.  One  is  a pavil- 
ion, supported  by  columns  of  marble,  white  as  if 
built  of  virgin  snow ; its  roof  of  the  same,  delicately 
tinted.  On  another  facade  of  this  court  is  the  superb 
gateway  of  the  Mardana,  or  men’s  abode,  which  chal- 
lenges the  world  for  a rival  or  even  equal.  There  is 
also  the  Hall  of  Victory,  panelled  in  snowy  alabaster 
and  inlaid  with  exquisite  forms  of  fruits  and  birds ; 


93 


the  roof  is  made  of  white  plaster  over  mirror  glass,  the 
plaster  cut  off‘  in  figures  from  the  face  of  the  glass,  so 
that  the  reflections  of  the  mirrors  through  are  like 
spangles  of  light  from  the  celestial  world. 

There  are  marble  bath-rooms  and  chambers  painted 
in  curious  scenes,  and  one  apartment  is  lined  with 
plates  of  mica  set  into  white  walls  and  vaultings,  fill- 
ing the  rooms  with  an  eerie  light.  The  zenanas  were 
not  behind  in  all  this  splendor,  but  with  the  rest  are 
falling  into  decay.  There  is  a luxurious  little  pavil- 
ion where  the  imprisoned  wives  and  daughters  could 
watch  the  scenes  in  the  squares.  But  one  of  the  deep- 
est laid  of  their  convictions,  running  through  the 
very  texture  of  humanity,  is  the  ever  recurring  idea 
of  sacrifice  and  its  vicariousnesses.  At  the  side  of  the 
main  entrance  is  a temple,  and  here  every  morn- 
ing in  the  year  sacrifice  is  made  of  life.  At  the 
Durga  Festival  a whole  herd  of  buffaloes  and  a 
flock  of  sheep  are  given  in  death  to  avert  the  wrath 
of  the  goddess.  But  her  daily  claim  is  a goat,  substi- 
tuted for  the  human  victim  whose  sacrifice  was  re- 
quired every  morning  before  the  domination  of  the 
British.  The  bloody  scene  is  in  the  presence  of  the  form 
of  the  idol  Kali,  all  black  and  red,  seated  on  a platform 
in  the  dim  shadows  of  the  temple,  with  eyes  of 
mother-of-pearl  and  a necklace  of  human  skulls.  At 
the  foot  of  the  altar  is  the  sword  that  had  through 
centuries  done  the  bloody  work.  The  victim  behaves 
often  as  if  he  comprehended  his  fate,  often  bleating 
piteously.  In  his  place  many  palpitating  hearts  have 
bled.  Suddenly  a bell  is  touched  and  the  priest  takes 
the  heavy  sword  lying  by  the  foot  of  the  idol,  performing 
at  the  same  time  the  eightfold  j)rostration  and  repeating 
the  mantra  oi expiation ; then  the  two  attendants  seize  the 


94 


goat,  one  by  the  tail  steadyinghim  and  the  other  stretch- 
ing his  neck  with  a cord.  The  poor  beast  stands  be- 
wildered', while  the  priest,  standing  at  right  angles 
with  the  neck  of  the  victim,  raises  the  sword,  the  end 
dropping  back  over  his  shoulder,  and  brings  it  down 
whizzing,  with  a blow  which  cuts  and  draws  at  the 
same  moment,  and  cuts  every  thing  between  the  shoul- 
ders and  head  down  to  the  tangled  hairs.  A brass 
vessel  catches  the  blood  and  the  priest  lays  the  head 
of  the  goat  before  the  horrid,  blood-loving  idol,  and 
touching  his  forehead  to  the  earth  repeats  the  pre- 
scribed prayer  of  dedication. 

CHAPTER  IX. 

FEROZEPORE  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 

A DAY  and  a night  north-west  of  Jeypore  is  an 
ancient  city.  It  is  still  a broad  plain  we 
are  crossing  to  go  toward  it,  bounded  only  by  the 
horizon  through  which  the  onward  way  lies.  The 
eye  begins  to  tire  of  so  much  level  land  and  to 
long  for  the  upheavals  made  by  earth’s  inner  forces 
through  her  outward  crust,  thus  preparing  the 
varieties  that  give  relief  to  the  eye.  There  is  but 
little  seen,  therefore,  on  all  this  long  journey  worth 
describing  until  day-dawn  comes,  w^hich,  in  the 
East,  is  always  interesting.  The  sun  comes  rolling 
up  into  the  heavens  hot,  wrathful  and  red  in  the 
face.  There  were  no  clouds  to  moderate  the  fierceness 
of  his  coming  nor  to  give  variety  about  his  throne. 
Day  was  fairly  in  the  world  w'hen  the  cars  pulled  up 
for  disembarkment.  The  dust  on  all  sides  was  stifling, 
and  no  place  was  there  to  shelter  the  pilgrim’s  head,  no 
hotels,  and  no  hospitality  in  heathenism,  and  it  would 


95 


have  been  a calamity  if  there  had.  A gharry  carried 
the  only  Europeans  stopping  to  a far-off  place  called 
a Dak  Bungalow,  which  is  usually  a government 
shelter  for  travellers,  where  a stay  can  be  made 
twenty-four  hours  and  then  the  word  is  move  on,  unless 
the  keeper  can  be  bribed,  in  which  case  yourself  and 
baggage  are  taken  into  a vehicle  of  some  kind  and 
driven  around  a few  squares,  after  which  you  return 
as  a new  guest. 

The  hotel,  as  it  was  called  in  Ferozepore,  was  full 
and  a tent  was  the  only  shelter  that  could  be  obtained. 
The  dust  on  the  floor  was  not  less  than  six  inches 
deep — no  one  had  ever  cared  to  investigate  further 
than  the  depth  of  their  shoes,  which  could  be  reached 
without  effort.  The  first  article  of  comfort  presented 
was  a bedstead  made  from  bamboo  poles,  not  over  a 
yard  wide ; this  in  a tropical  country  for  two  persons 
w^as  not  an  uplifting  vision  of  joys  to  come.  But  the 
amazement  that  followed  could  hardly  be  imagined 
when  it  was  asked  where  is  the  bed,  and  the  reply  was 
that  this  was  all  that  was  furnished  in  India — a bam 
boo  bedstead  with  split  bamboo  slats.  All  the  outfit  for 
such  an  emergency  that  could  be  forthcoming  from 
the  pilgrims  was  one  air  pillow  that  as  soon  as  blown 
up  and  the  head  laid  upon  it  began  to  express  itself  in 
a sound  like  “ fish,”  or  “ fiss-fiss,”  until  the  whole  was  as 
flabby  as  a fresh  calf  skin.  The  only  other  article  of 
bedding  was  a camel’s  hair  blanket,  which  Avould  have 
to  answer  for  mattress,  blankets  and  sheets.  The 
prospect  of  having  a pair  of  backs  grooved  their  whole 
length  was  a little  depressing  even  to  the  intellectual 
sensibilities,  and  a feeling  crept  over  brightest  hope 
somewhat  after  the  sentiment  uttered  by  dejected  peo- 
ple, “ I wish  I were  dead.”  The  next  article  com- 


96 


forted  us  greatly,  which  was  a looking-glass  about 
twelve  inches  square  and  dappled  by  the  loss  of  the 
'quicksilver  from  its  back.  These  Hindus  are  philo- 
sophical and  know  that  the  last  tussle  of  grim  death 
with  mortals  is  with  their  vanity.  Some  good  people 
would  struggle  even  in  the  arms  of  death  into  a photo- 
graph gallery  to  have  their  pictures  taken  and  the  new 
■copies  would  be  the  last  object  of  their  entranced  vision. 
Breakfast  was  early  served,  and  on  tw'o  rickety  stools 
with  toes  in  the  dust  the  refreshments  of  the  day  were 
begun.  Letters  had  been  sent  by  Mr.  AVilliam  S. 
Reed,  of  Chambersburgh,  extending  invitations  to 
visit  his  son-in-law  and  daughter.  Rev.  Mr.  Newton, 
in  whose  compound  we  soon  met  the  warmest  welcome 
and  the  largest  hospitality. 

The  city  is  in  two  marked  divisions.  The  European 
side  is  more  than  a mile  away  from  the  native  city, 
with  large  houses  and  spacious  grounds.  In  this 
department  is  the  court,  frequented  by  hundreds. 
Strange  sight,  and  true  to  human  nature,  to  see  men 
whose  whole  wardrobe  would  not  cost  five  cents — hav- 
ing but  a rag  between  them  and  nudity — contending 
with  each  other  in  the  courts.  It  is  a passion  to  be 
litigious  in  India.  Men  will  spend  the  last  cent  in  the 
world  and  grind  their  teeth  in  their  impotency  because 
it  compels  them  to  desist  from  w'hat  good  sense  ought 
to  resist. 

There  is  no  country  under  the  sun  where  English- 
speaking  lawyers, mastering  enough  of  the  Hindustanee 
tongue  to  understand  the  litigants,  can  make  more 
money.  The  west  end  is  the  old  city  in  Indian  style. 
It  consists  of  huts  and  their  accomj^animents ; but  in 
the  midst  of  this  Christianity  builds  and  cleanses.  The 
hospitality  of  an  Afghan  was  extended ; he  had  era- 


97 


braced  Christianity  years  before,  his  wife  was  a 
Mohammedan,  who  had  held  to  her  iaith  with  the 
pertinacity  of  this  kind.  She  attended  the  services  of  the 
Christian  church  with  her  husband,  but  held  back,  for 
we  cannot  in  our  free  country  ever  understand  the 
trials  of  discipleship  in  its  relations  to  caste,  but  at  last  * 
she  rose  above  all  and  cast  her  lot  in  with  the  little 
band  of  Christians,  and  is  now’  a decided  follower,  a 
woman  of  strong  character  and  superior  in  her  ap- 
pearance to  most  Indian  women.  These  parents  have 
one  little  girl,  eight  or  nine  years  of  age,  who  played 
on  the  cabinet  organ  and  sang  for  us  some  of  the 
native  ditties  and  the  gospel  hymns,  the  delight  of  the 
people,  w^hether  Christian  or  not.  This  big  Afghan 
was  building  a new  house  in  European  style,  and  was 
intelligent,  and  was  so  progressive  in  his  ideas  that  he 
appeared  to  belong  to  a Western  country. 

The  mission  work  in  Ferozepore  is  comparatively 
new,  but  unusually  successful.  Mr.  New’ton  studied 
medicine  before  leaving  the  last  time  for  India,  and 
has  found  it  a great  help  in  his  w’ork.  He  started  to 
treat  diseases  in  a little  tumble-dowm  shelter  opening 
on  the  streets,  and  the  number  of  the  diseased  increased 
on  his  hands  until  they  w’ould  stand  on  the  streets  w’ait- 
ing  their  turn  for  hours  if  necessary.  The  hospital  and 
dispensary  work  is  opened  by  reading,  explaining  and 
enforcing  the  Scriptures  by  native  ministers,  to  w’hich 
reverent  respect  is  ahvays  given  and  many  souls  are 
blessed,  if  their  bodily  ailments  are  not  cured. 
This  is  the  case  often  with  incurables,  who  know 
that  there  is  no  help,  hardly  even  mitigation,  and  come 
to  get  comfort  to  their  souls  by  being  enlightened  as 
to  the  beneficent  purposes  of  sufiferings.  A new  hos- 
pital and  -dispensary  were  undertaken  in  a more  eligi- 


9b 


ble  and  convenient  spot  and  have  been  completed  with- 
out debt  and  without  expense  to  the  Board  of  Mis- 
sions. The  people  of  Ferozepore  and  country  about 
furnish  the  means  for  sustaining,  both  Hindu  and 
Mohammedan  contributing  and  taking  the  greatest 
interest  in  all  pertaining  to  its  welfare.  It  is  not 
meant  that  this  is  general,  fo*r  every  movement  even 
to.  a cleaner  sty  in  India  will  have  bitter  and  re- 
lentless oppositions;  but  there  are  many  who  have 
been  elevated  by  Christian  sentiments,  though  still 
clinging  to  their  inevitable  castes.  While  in  Feroze- 
pore two  or  three  offerings  came  to  hand  for  the  sup- 
port of  the  institution.  One  from  an  unknown 
person  was  four  hundred  rupees,  a great  sum  even 
for  most  of  those  called  wealthy  in  India,  but  almost 
every  day  the  poor  are  sending  in  anywhere  from  an 
anna,  about  two  cents  of  our  money,  to  a whole 
and  several  rupees.  The  institution  and  the  man  who 
founded  and  continues  it,  are  greatly  beloved  by  the 
natives,  both  Mohammedan  and  Hindu.  As  he  goes 
along  the  streets  they  know  him  as  the  good  Ameri- 
can missionary  who  has  no  other  business  in  their 
country  except  to  bless  them,  and  one  of  the  most 
touching  manifestations  of  their  appreciation  is  to  see 
his  healed  patients  greeting  him  in  the  streets  and 
even  running  after  him  to  give  their  salaams  and 
other  expressions  of  obligations  and  gratitude.  He  is 
at  home  with  the  people  of  his  adopted  country  and 
laughs  and  talks  with  them  in  their  own  familiar  way, 
and  is  alike  respected  by  caste  and  outcast.  He  is 
the  go-between,  or  link,  who  is  permitted  to  do  with 
either  as  he  chooses,  without  offence. 

Dr.  Newton  is  not  content  to  meet  suffering  alone 
in  his  hospital,  he  treats  it  everywhere,  on  the  streets. 


99 


in  the  hovel,  and  keeps  in  his  own  yard  the 
wretched  creatures,  whom  he  feeds,  and  both  he  and 
his  wife  dress  their  sores  until,  were  it  not  that  there 
is  no  bound  to  the  sacrifices  prompted  by  the  love  of 
Christ,  one  would  be  confounded  in  finding  the  in- 
fatuation that  gives  itself  to  a people  of  whom  it  can 
only  be  said  the  “ whole  head  is  faint,  the  whole  heart 
is  sick,  from  the  crown  of  the  head  even  unto  the 
soles  of  its  feet  it  is  only  bruises,  and  putrifying  sores 
which  have  not  been  bound  up,  neither  mollified  with 
ointment.”  Mrs.  Newton  has  a class  of  vagrants  in  her 
door  yard,  filthy  and  infested,  _which  she  has  conscien- 
tiously, if  not  hopefully,  taught  every  Sabbath  for 
years.  They  have  the  scantiest  protections  on  their 
bodies  for  decency  and  flopping  themselves  down  in  the 
dust  at  her  feet,  sometimes  hearing  reverently,  some- 
times contending  for  their  opinions  as  a bear  robbed  of 
her  whelps,  for  paupers  in  India  are  not  necessarily 
ignorant.  How  she  can  endure  the  contact  is  one  of 
the  paradoxes  which  can  only  be  explained  by  the 
power  of  divine  grace. 

Evangelizing  services  are  a prominent  feature  in 
the  mission  at  Ferozepore,  and  are  carried  on  in  a 
somewhat  singular  but  interesting  way.  At  a corner 
where  the  multitudes  pass  in  the  evenings  are  shelters 
in  which  benches  are  placed ; for  street  preaching 
has  become  a mission  force  in  the  progress  of  the 
kingdom  of  God.  The  services  are  opened  by  a 
little  portable  organ,  which  is  also  a missionary 
ever  making  itself  heard,  on  which  the  Rev.  F.  New- 
ton plays,  singing  Christian  hymns  set  to  native  airs, 
of  which  the  people  are  passionately  fond,  as  they  are 
the  songs  of  their  country.  The  tunes  of  the  gospel 
hymns  are  also  used,  for  some  of  which  the  natives. 


100 


have  shown  great  fondness.  The  singing  and  playing 
do  not  fail  to  bring' the  people  together,  some  from 
curiosity,  others  from  loye  of  the  music,  some  from 
love  of  disputation  and  others  because  they  have  an 
inward  sympathy  for  the  gospel,  and  its  teachings  as 
to  duty  and  comfort  in  life’s  troubles.  When  a con- 
gregation has  been  collected  a native  preacher  begins 
his  address,  earnest  and  eloquent,  for  this  is  a people 
with  both  the  gifts  and  graces  of  oratory.  Often  he 
has  hardly  begun  before  there  is  a verbal  duel. 
The  fierce  Mohammedan  has  grappled  with  him.  The 
Mohammedan  always  wants  to  know  who  was  the 
W'orld’s  Saviour  before  Christ  came.  He  also  fights 
His  divinity.  The  Brahmin  is  never  so  fierce,  but  • 
knows  nothing  of  the  Scriptures  and  does  not  believe 
in  them ; and  vindictive  as  the  Mohammedan  is,  agree- 
ment can  be  reached  wuth  him  much  more  easily,  as  he 
know’s  and  receives  much  revealed  truth,  but  it  is 
only  an  intellectual  assent  for  the  time  being.  The 
Hindu  is  as  near  the  kingdom  as  any  one  is  who 
must  unlearn  every  thing  and  give  up  every  thing. 
The  native  ministers  are  usually  more  than  a match 
for  either,  and  the  result  is  that  the  professional  dis- 
putant shrugs  his  shoulders  in  Eastern  fashion  and 
leaves,  and  the  gospel  is  preached  wuth  power  and 
often  with  effect  to  the  rest. 

Dr.  Newton  usually  lets  the  natives  do  the  preach- 
ing in  these  meetings;  there  is  an  advantage  in  reach- 
ing a people  by  their  own  men,  but  when  the  tug  of  w’ar 
is  too  strong  for  them  he  supports  them  and  helps  them 
out.  But  he  preaches  whenever  and  wherever  there  ■ 
is  occasion,  for  the  more  advanced  Christians  love  to 
hear  him  best,  and  where  there  are  no  race  prejudices 
the  foreign  missionary,  if  he  is  master  of  the  language. 


101 


and  the  people  have  confidence  in  him,  is  most  trusted 
and  influential.  But  there  are  great  advantages  in  set- 
ting these  native  Christians  to  wrestle  with  each  other — 
it  deepens  Christian  convictions,  it  gives  the  Christian 
preacher  great  insight  into  the  weaknesses  of  the  de- 
fenders of  heathenism.  It  compels  a Pagan  to  feel  the 
superiority  of  the  gospel  force  when  wnelded  by  one  of 
his  own  kind  not  superior  to  him  in  either  intellect  or 
learning.  One  of  these  native  preachers  was  a great 
foe  to  Christianity  for  a long  time — a man  of  superior 
learning  among  his  people  and  one  whose  hostility 
was  up  to  the  required  standard  of  their  fanaticism. 
But  he  was  won  by  the  gift  of  a Testament,  a translation 
in  his  own  tongue,  and  read  it  on  account  of  his  liter- 
ary tastes  and  abilities,  and  after  yeifrs  of  reflection, 
struggle  and  persecution  gave  himself  to  the  cause  that 
he  now  so  ably  exemplifies  and  defends.  The  natives 
admire  his  abilities  and  learning,  his  fearlessness,  even 
if  they  do  not  follow  his  Master.  He  has  not  an 
equal  among  his  unbelieving  countrymen  in  all  the 
country  of  the  Punjab. 

The  motives  which  bring  men  to  church,  good  and 
bad,  sincere,  hypocritical  and  detestable,  have  illus- 
trations in  India  as  in  America.  In  their  worst  form 
they  ought  to  be  no  surprise,  for  so  they  were  shown 
the  Master.  A man  sat  listening  to  him,  all  ears  and 
eyes,  when  he  was  delivering  that  fearful  discourse  on 
the  sin  against  the  Holy  Ghost,  when  the  impatient  audi- 
tor broke  in  upon  him,  saying,  “Master,  speak  to  my 
brother  that  he  divide  the  inheritance  with  me.”  This 
had  been  all  that  he  was  thinking  about  all  the  time, 
how  he  might  engage  the  Saviour  in  a family  fracas 
through  which  he  might  get  his  brother  to  terms,  or 
might  overreach  in  settling  up  his  father’s  estate.  So 


102 


during  the  night  service  in  Ferozepore  an  intelligent- 
looking  native  was,  with  transfixed  gaze,  taking  it  in.  W e 
thought  to  ourselves  this  man  is  either  a pillar  in  the  na- 
tive church  or  he  is  in  the  very  throes  of  repentance  or 
inquiry  after  new  life.  But,  alas!  how  much  sober 
judgment  about  others  ends  in  the  absurd  and  ridicu- 
lous. After  the  benediction  this  sanctified-looking  in- 
dividual followed  Missionary  Newton  on  the  Avay,  and 
in  the  course  of  conversation  told  him  that  he  had 
come  to  the  services  to  get  an  opportunity  to  ask  him 
if  he  knew  of  any  dye  that  would  color  his  whiskers, 
as  he  was  a widower  and  wished  to  get  a young  wife  I 
But  hypocrisy  only  exists  where  there  is  true,  sincere 
worth.  It  really  pre-supt^oses  good.  One  of  the  most 
marked  examples  is  a native  convert  of  high  caste, 
a neighbor  of  Mr.  Newton,  named  Mai  Das, . now 
one  of  the  wealthiest  men  about  the  city,  who  lives  in  a 
handsome  residence  built  in  European  style  of  architec- 
ture, surrounded  by  grounds  that  recall  to  the  visitor 
the  traditional  idea  of  Paradise.  It  is  furnished 
within  in  the  best  European  style  of  the  country,  his 
family  have  risen  from  the  floor  to  chairs.  His  wife 
is  the  daughter  of  a native  Christian  of  Lahore,  and 
is  beautiful  and  attractive,  the  mother  of  several 
bright  and  happy  children.  Mr.  Mai  Das  is  a large 
agriculturalist  and  has  a farming  estate  of  several 
hundred  of  acres,  is  advanced  in  his  ideas  and  watches 
every  improvement  in  agricultural  implements  and 
methods,  a gentleman  farmer,  a man  of  refined  native 
and  European  culture,  and  speaks  the  English  with 
the  fluency  of  a native.  He  had  a thrilling  history 
of  his  enhance  into  the  visible  kingdom  of  heaven. 
He  was  when  a little  boy  impressed  with  the  upright- 
ness and  gentleness  of  a venerable  foreign  missionary, 


103 


and  when  he  came  into  his  young  manhood  he  fell 
under  the  influence  of  the  Rev.  Charles  Newton,  now 
of  Lodiana,  who  led  hira  through  the  enlightening 
influences  of  the  Word  and  Sj)irit  into  the  truth  and 
its  convictions.  The  day  was  aj^pointed  for  his  bap- 
tism. It  was  the  culmination  of  bitter  trials,  for  he 
encounted  the  most  relentless  hostility  of  his  friends 
and  all  Hinduism.  The  government  chapel  was  asked 
— for  the  services,  but  English  Episcopacy,  with  its 
Papal  insolence  and  inborn  Phariseeism,  refused,  as 
usual,  the  use  of  property  in  a country  held  and  de- 
fended as  much  by  Nonconformist  treasure  and  blood 
as  by  their  own. 

The  greatest  hindrance  to  the  conversion  of  the 
heathen  is  this  oppression  of  the  most  unjust,  unscrip- 
tural  and  un-Christian  ordination-caste  on  the  face  of 
the  earth.  The  parlors  of  the  officers’  cpiarters  were 
given,  where  the  English  rector  was  willing  not  only 
to  be  present,  but  to  take  some  part  in  the  service. 
Often  the  men  in  the  mission  field  are  as  shade  trees, 
with  body  and  top  above  the  boxes  put  around  them  in 
their  planting.  All  was  ready  for  a remarkable  event, 
the  baptism  of  a high  caste  Hindu,  but  he  did  not 
come.  Some,  ever  ready  to  impute  low  motives,  said 
he  was  a fraud  and  never  intended  to  come,  others 
believed  that  he  had  been  hindered  by  the  hostilities 
surrounding  him,  which  was  both  charitable  and  true. 
As  he  wms  on  his  way  he  was  dragged  out  of  his 
vehicle  by  a fanatical  mob  of  his  own  people,  beaten 
and  forced  into  another  conveyance  and  carried  to 
his  own  house  and  locked  in  a chamber,  while  the 
mob  howled  on  the  streets.  He  called  for  the  police, 
but  they  were  in  sympathy  with  the  crowd,  and  while 
they  did  not  give  this  as  the  reason  they  did  nothing. 


104 


At  last,  after  hours  of  cruel  detention,  he  called  to  the 
police  in  the  name  of  Queen  Victoria,  “I  demand 
that  a British  subject  be  released,”  which  the  police 
understood  and  dare  not  disobey,  for  there  were  bar- 
racks filled  with  British  soldiers  not  a mile  away. 
He  was  released,  his  family  begging  him  with  tears 
not  to  be  baptized,  saying  that  there  was  no  sacrifice  in 
their  power  they  would  not  make  for  him ; they  said  they 
would  not  oppose  his  going  to  the  meetings  of  the 
Christians  if  he  would  only  give  up  his  baptism,  which 
would  separate  them  forever.  His  mother  plead  in 
tears  and  agonies  that  she  might  not  forever  be  sep- 
arated from  her  son.  But  disfigured  as  he  was  and 
in  his  garments  soiled  in  his  encounter  with  the  mob, 
he  presented  himself  and  made  confession  of  his  faith 
and  was  baptized  by  Rev.  Charles  Newton. 

His  family  mourned  for  him  as  for  one  loved  and 
lost  and  infamously  -dead.  They  never  recognized 
him  for  years  ; all  that  had  been  his  in  the  household 
was  destroyed  and  every  trace  of  him  put  out  of  sight. 
He  entered  the  kingdom  by  violence,  he  endured  per- 
secutions, but  God  blessed  him.  His  fine  house  now 
stands  at  the  point  where  the  mob  dragged  him  out 
of  the  conveyance  and  beat  him  on  his  way  to  his 
baptism — a memorial  house  which  is  his  Ebenezer, 
for  here  and  hitherto  God  has  helped  him.  The  Eng- 
lish government  on  account  of  his  Christian  integrity 
and  abilities  appointed  him  Commissioner  of  Canals. 
He  is  liberal  to  the  church,  carrying  that  end  of  the 
load  which  remains  when  the  other  members  have 
done  all  they  will  or  can. 

The  mission  has  a fine  site  for  a church  near 
his  mansion,  all  embowered  within  the  shadows 
of  beautiful  trees.  There  is  a little  chapel  on  it 


105 


quite  inadequate  to  the  demands  of  the  growing  con- 
gregation, and  they  have  about  half  enough  money  to 
finish  it,  the  gifts  mostly  of  Christ’s  blessed  poor, 
though  some  of  them  have  come  from  the  heathen 
about,  who  respect  w^hat  they  have  not  yet  embraced 
as  all  their  own.  Five  hundred  dollars  would,  with 
what  they  have,  finish  for  them  a commodious  and 
to  them  a beautiful  church.  We  wonder  if  this  men- 
tion will  not  touch  some  kind  heart  which  would  like 
to  have  the  blessings  of  the  poor  to  come  upon 
it.  The  congregation  assembled  on  a Sabbath  even- 
ing and  the  writer  addressed  them  on  the  work 
of  Foreign  Missions  as  seen  on  his  journey  that  far  on 
his  way  round  the  world,  and  they  were  enthused 
over  the  progress  of  the  gospel,  strengthened  in  their 
hopes  for  India,  and  took  their  collection  for  the  cause 
as  does  the  Church  at  home.  This  same  man,  plucked 
from  the  violence  of  the  mob  for  Christ’s  crown,  inter- 
preted for  us.  His  mother  changed  her  mind  about  her 
dead  and  disgraced  son  before  her  death,  and  he  was  oft 
with  her,  but  though  she  loved  her  son  she  never  gave 
up  her  idolatry.  The  Hindu  people,  so  hostile  at  his 
conversion,  have  given  up  their  hostility,  and  honor  him 
as  a Christian  now.  it  is  marvellous  in  our  eyes. 


CHAPTER  X, 


TEE  PUNJAB  AND  ITS  CAPITAL. 

The  Punjab  means  “the  Province  of  the  Five 
Rivers,”  and  is  the  greatest  Province  in  India ; 
not  in  its  populations,  nor  its  soil,  nor  wealth,  but  in 
the  manliness  and  progress  of  its  people.  The  natives 
here  aj^proach  more  nearly  the  European  ideas  of  men 
and  women.  They  have  taken  more  kindly  to  Euro- 
peans, have  gotten  more  out  of  them,  and  have 
given  more  return  for  the  efforts  bestowed  upon  them. 
. They  are  the  bravest  of  people,  and  courage  and  pro- 
gress are  more  or  less  allied  to  each  other.  The  men  are 
warlike;  none  know  this  better  than  the  British,  who 
found  it  out  in  both  their  hostilities  and  friendships. 
The  most  soldierly  and  noble  people  in  the  Punjab 
are  the  Sikhs,  who  had  their  organic  cu’igin  in  a re- 
ligion which  was  under  military  discipline.  The 
originator  of  this  sect,  Nanak,  lived  in  the  fifteenth 
century  in  the  vicinity  of  Lahore.  He  was  a religious 
fanatic  who  preached  against  caste.  He  also  ex- 
horted to  purity  of  life  and  declared  the  unity  of  the 
Godhead.  The  Sikhs  have  been  constantly  persecuted 
by  the  Mohammedans.  When  the  Mogul  Empire 
was  broken  the  Punjab  became  a self-governing  terri- 
tory. The  Sikh  kingdom  was  founded  in  1780  by 
Raujit  Singh,  who  was  first  Governor  of  Lahore,  and 
then  established  a despotism  on  the  basis  of  the  Sikh 
relision,  which  extended  to  Multan,  west  to  Pashawur 
and  north  to  Cashmere.  At  his  death  the  kingdom 
was  torn  by  rivalries  and  dissensions. 

In  1845  the  Sikhs  felt  able  to  attack  the  British 


106 


107 


army  with  the  purpose  of  driving  them  out  of  the 
country,  and  did  defeat  them,  and  if  they  had  known 
how  badly  the  English  were  worsted  would  have 
annihilated  them.  There  were  sixty  thousand  in  the 
army  which  invaded  British  Indian  territory.  Sev- 
eral battles  were  fought  near  the  Sutlej,  one  of  the 
five  rivers,  running  between  Ferozepore  and  Lahore. 
The  final  result  of  the  contest  was  that  the  British 
rallied  from  their  defeat  and  encountered  the  Sikhs 
when  their  councils  were  divided,  and  in  four  battle 
drove  them  back  from  Lahore,  and  at  their  surrender 
the  Punjab  became  British  territory.  The  British 
had  only  beaten  them  in  the  battle-field,  however,  for 
they  had  worse  contests  with  e^^ery  form  of  insincerity 
and  intrigue.  The  wife  of  the  old,  one-eyed  king, 
who  was  the  greatest  of  his  line  in  both  courage  and 
intellect,  by  his  death  became  Regent.  She  was  an 
abominable  creature  in  every  element  of  her  charac- 
ter. She  chose  a minister  like  herself,  and  their  com- 
bined knowledge  in  the  dishonest  and  the  infamous  made 
them  a terror  to  all  decency.  He  was  alike  her  para- 
mour, her  slave  and  her  master,  and  a curse  to  the  king- 
dom. He  had  but  a few  principles,  and  these  can  only 
be  classified  by  bad  names — avarice,  uncleanness,  trick- 
ery, dishonesty,  vicious  ambitions  to  enthrone  his  sel- 
fishness and  to  fill  his  pockets  with  ill-gotten  gains. 
Though  protected  in  his  authority  by  British  arms  he 
was  a traitor  at  heart,  and  instigated  and  fostered  the 
rebellion  in  Cashmere,  which  had  been  ceded  to  the 
British  as  a war  indemnity.  The  crisis  soon  came,  for 
his  rascalities  were  aggressive.  He  was  disgraced  and 
imprisoned,  and  in  his  stead  a Regency  was  estab- 
lished, composed  of  Sikh  chiefs,  under  the  control  of  a 
British  Resident,  who  virtually  ruled  the  country. 


108 


The  Sikhs  and  their  heroisms  introduce  us  to 
some  of  the  greatest  and  best  characters  in  the  history 
of  the  foreign  colonial  governments  of  Great  Britain, 
the  names  of  those  pure,  high-minded,  brave  and  just 
rulers,  and  withal  model  Christians,  Sir  John  and 
Sir  James  Lawrence.  But  for  these  great  and  good  men 
England  would  be  without  one  of  the  brightest  stars 
of  her  colonial  history.  Sir  Henry  Lawrence  was 
first  and  wisely  chosen  when  the  Sikh  Kegency  was 
overthrown,  a man  who  had  participated  in  the  recent 
struggles.  He  had  a conscientious  regard  for  his  re- 
sponsibilities, a pure  nature,  and  had  what  a multitude 
of  rulers  have  never  thought  of,  truthfulness  and  sin- 
cerity toward  their  subjects.  He  was  none  the  less  able 
on  account  of  these  sterling  qualities  to  cope  with  the 
natfv^es  in  shrewdness  and  that  far-sightedness  which 
circumvented  them  by  their  own  cunning.  The 
natives  came  to  believe  that  there  was  nothing  sordid 
or  selfish  about  him.  He  established  a government 
of  confidence,  and  order  superseded  corruption.  But 
the  queen  mother  ex-regent  was  plotting,  and  many 
high  officers  of  the  old  Sikh  army  were  sharers  of  her 
intrigues.  Colonel  Lawrence’s  health  failed  and  he 
was  obliged  to  leave  for  England,  and  Sir  Frederick 
Curry  was  made  Resident  during  his  absence.  After 
him  came  Lord  Halhousie,  of  whom  it  is  said  that  he 
found  the  Punjab  and  Oudh  foreign  States  and  left 
them  British  Provinces.  A second  Sikh  war  grew 
out  of  the  exorbitant  claim  of  Moolraj,  the  son 
of  Sawum  Mull,  Governor  of  Multan,  which  could 
not  be  fully  met  and  , was  compromised.  Moolraj 
continued  his  intrigues,  which  resulted  in  an  attack 
upon  some  British  officers,  who  were  wounded  and 
afterward  dragged  from  their  beds  and  overpowered 


109 


by  numbers,  though  making  heroic  resistance.  They 
were  murdered  and  mutilated  with  every  indignity. 
The  insurrection  being  at  first  personal  and  local,  be- 
came general  and  national.  Multan  was  invested  and 
after  a long  resistance  surrendered  to  the  British. 

The  queen  w’as  still  plotting,  though  in  banishment, 
she  was  therefore  sent  by  the  British  to  Ferozepore 
and  eventually  to  Benares.  The  insurrection  con- 
tinued to  spread  and  resolved  itself  into  a contest  be- 
tween the  Sikhs  and  the  British.  Lord  Gough  came 
to  the  help  of  the  latter  and  battles  w'ere  fought  with- 
out any  decisive  victory  on  either  side.  At  this  time 
Sir  Henry  Lawrence,  though  still  ill,  returned,  and 
appreciating  the  position  pushed  up  the  Indus  and 
took  part  in  the  siege  of  Multan.  The  British  suffered 
a disastrous  defeat  at  Chillianwalla,  but  after  other 
encounters  finally  gained  supremacy  over  the  Pro- 
vince. 

This  intriguing  woman  w^as  the  mother  of  the  some- 
what noted  Dhuleep  Singh,  and  there  are  grave 
doubts  about  his  legitimacy,  but  this  did  not  hinder 
his  being  the  heir  apparent,  and  it  was  during  his 
minority  that  his  mother  lost  the  kingdom.  He  was 
educated  in  the  Presbyterian  mission  at  Futtehghur 
and  gave  great  promise.  He  was  a person  of  rare 
beauty,  gentle  in  disposition  and  inquisitive  in 
knowledge.  He  united  with  the  Church  w’hile  young, 
led  an  exemplary  Christian  life  and  was  princely  in 
his  gifts  to  the  mission  schools.  As  he  could  not  come 
to  the  throne  of  the  Sikhs  the  British  government 
recognized  him  as  a native  Prince,  and  settled  upon 
him  an  annuity  of  fifty  thousand  pounds.  His  mar- 
riage to  a Christian  girl,  without  rank,  in  a mission 
school  of  the  United  Presbyterians  in  Cairo  created 


110 


great  excitement,  as  being  so  far  from  Oriental  cus- 
tom and  withal  in  his  Christian  character,  so  wise. 
His  own  reasons  showed  unusual  wisdom  for  his  years 
and  surroundings.  He  said  that  if  he  married  in 
India  of  his  own  rank  his  wife  would  be  a heathen  and 
separation  would  be  the  result  foreshadowed  from  the 
beginning.  Instead  he  had  chosen  the  highest  rank 
in  the  world,  a daughter  of  the  great  God.  She  was 
well  educated,  a -woman  of  rare  excellence  and  a wife 
and  mother  worthy  of  a better  husband. 

The  Christian  world  has  been  sadly  disappointed, 
as  it  usually  is  when  it  expects  much  of  the  princes 
of  the  blood.  He  visited  England  and  was,  as  usual, 
lionized  and  debauched.  Much  of  his  downfall  is  laid 
to  the  Prince  of  Wales,  who  will,  no  doubt,  have 
many  others  added  to  his  list  of  wrecks  by  his  dis- 
graceful career’.  The  Maharajah  has  not  only  lost  all 
relationship  to  religion,  but  almost  of  decency.  He 
became  a spendthrift  and,  overwhelmed  with  debt,  is 
an  exile  and  enemy  of  England  in  Russia,  plotting  for 
the  invasion  of  India,  and  is  under  British  surveil- 
lance. Worge  than  all,  he  has  left  his  family,  and  his 
wife  died  a short  time  since  in  neglect  and  broken- 
hearted. 

Lahore,  the  capital  of  the  Province  of  the  Punjab, 
includes  one-tenth  of  the  whole  Province,  containing 
110,000  square  miles  and  22,712,120  inhabitants.  It 
is  one  of  the  oldest  and  most  historic  cities  in  India 
and  has  witnessed  more  of  the  stirring  movements  of 
the  past  than  any  other.  It  felt  the  tread  of  the 
great  Alexander,  who  was  arrested  in  his  conquering 
course  at  the  river  Sutlej,  only  a few  miles  beyond, 
where  the  mutiny  of  his  troops  compelled  his  return. 
The  city  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  river  Ravee ; 


Ill 


it  gives  the  pilgrim  a sense  of  repose  at  evening 
when  the  long  beams  of  the  evening  sun  lie  aslant  the 
magnificent  foliage,  of  which  there  is  the  greatest  abun- 
dance. There  are  superb  boulevards  and  public  gar- 
dens in  the  European  part  of  the  city.  The  rest  is  a 
jumble  of  thin  brick  buildings,  sheds,  tumble-downs 
and  mud  huts.  In  the  city  is  a museum  containing  art 
remains  and  present  art  products,  agricultural  and 
horticultural  growths,  and  beside  great  collections  of 
skins  and  skeletons  of  animal,  reptile  and  insect  life 
of  the  country,  which  surprise  those  coming  from  the 
temperate  zones  in  their  magnitude,  variety  and 
beauties.  There  is  a first-class  English  book-store, 
the  building  a gift  of  a benevolent  Englishman,  and 
erected  in  the  interest  of  Christian  missions  and  their 
advancement. 

At  the  north-west  angle  of  the  city  is  the  citadel 
■which  is  occupied  by  detachments  of  British  troops. 
Near  the  citadel  is  the  tomb  of  Maharajah  Rungeet 
Singh,  known  in  history  as  King  of  Lahore,  whose 
end  came  in  1841,  and  the  place  of  his  bodily  repose 
is  of  considerable  pretensions.  The  doors  are  of 
carved  sandal  wood.  The  adornments  on  the  .walls 
are  Indian,  consisting  of  statues  of  Vishnu  and  Siva, 
varied  by  a somewhat  extensive  assortment  of  villain- 
ous faces  on  one  head.  There  were  also  many  brawny 
arms.  Such  object  teaching  can  only  be  equalled  by 
our  modern  Sunday-school  devices  for  putting  piety 
into  the  heart  through  the  eyes.  One  hand  on  one 
of  the  many  arms  of  this  well-furnished  idol  has  the 
proverbial  small  boy  by  the  hair,  which  is  the  way,  we 
suppose,  that  the  goddess  “ nabs”  sin  in  the  concrete, 
and  the  moral  derived,  which  mention  for  the 
benefit  of  the  inventors  of  Sunday-school  “ jim-cracks,” 


112 


is  that  every  male  Hindu  is  shaved  to  the  skin  and 
the  skin  sand-papered  so  that  her  grip  will  slip  in 
her  desire  to  send  the  young  manhood  of  India  to 
the  bad.  The  king  has  a good  crib  for  his  ashes 
under  a lofty  marble  pavilion,  double  arched,  so  that 
one  pavilion  seems  to  stand  within  another;  here 
is  the  urn  that  holds  the  little  dust  which  a Hindu 
makes  after  he  is  dead.  The  domes  of  this  beautiful 
monument  are  made  of  fretted  silver  and  the  ceiling 
between  the  outer  and  inner  pavilions  is  constructed 
of  mirrors  and  an  arabesque  of  frosted  silver. 

Beyond  in  another  entrance  are  the  vases  in  which 
is  all  that  is  known  to  exist  in  time  or  eternity  of  his 
two  sons  and  grandson,  not  one  of  whom  died  a 
natural  death.  The  first  reigned  only  a year  and  was 
poisoned— a kingly  pastime  of  the  thrones  of  India. 
A younger  son  was  proclaimed  king  under  the 
Regency  of  his  mother  and  was  killed  before  his 
father’s  funeral  was  over  by  the  falling  of  a beam  on 
him,  a genuine  Indian  accident  contrived  for  the  occa- 
sion. Then  the  third  son  of  Shere  Singh,  who  was 
not  a son,  contended  with  the  widowed  Regent  and 
ousted  her,  but  had  the  opportunity  to  learn  the  pecu- 
liarities of  assassination — another  recreation  of  this 
country.  The  people  most  concerned  in  this  business 
and  their  doings  have  already  been  mentioned,  and  this 
may  pass  for  any  elaborate  descriptions.  These  Sikh 
kings  hated  Mohammedanism  and  its  monuments  of 
every  kind,  and  not  without  a reason,  for  they  had  felt 
its  tyrannies,  and  when  their  time  camethgy  dishonored 
its  monuments  with  an  ingenuity  half  diabolical. 
The  mosque  built  by  the  great  Emperor  Arungzebe  is 
not  only  desolate,  but  dishonored,  the  marks  of  which 
will  abide  until  it  dissolves  into  dust.  The  ruin 


113 


of  this  iconoclastic  Emperor  is  magnificent,  but  the 
Sikhs  have  done  their  best  to  make  as  contemptible 
as  he  did  all  that  did  not  suit  his  religious  or  devilish 
fancies.  The  late  Maharajah  converted  it  into  a bar- 
racks for  his  soldiers  and  slaughtered  Indian  hogs; 
nothing  but  scavengers  are  in  its  places  sacred  to 
prayer. 

• dllAPTER  XI. 

CHRISTIAN  UNITY  AND  PROGRESS. 

WE  are  hearing  just  now  much  of  Christian 
unity,  its  influence,  its  joys  and  its  assimila- 
tion to  the  divine  ideal  in  the  valedictory  prayer  of 
our  Lord.  Much  of  this  talk  is  sheer  sentimentality,  as 
shallow  as  superficial;  much  of  it  means  the  aggran- 
dizement of  one  church,  the  least  in  membership  and 
in  that  benevolence  which  marks  a living  Church. 
The  church  which  sits  as  the  frog  to  swallow  the 
ox.  Much,  however,  in  this  and  in  all  other  churches 
is  sincere.  Men  are  ready  to  sacrifice  even  identity  if  by 
it  Christ  shall  be  glorified  and  the  world  saved.  This 
spirit  is  not  visionary  nor  sentimental,  but  practical, 
and  its  results  are  to  be  seen  every  day  in  heathen 
lands — Episcopalians,  Methodists,  Presb}i;erians,  Bap- 
tists and  even  Eomanists  working  in  harmony  for  the 
perishing  heathen.  Here  is  the  place  to  begin  union; 
here  Christ’s  prayer  “that  they  may  be  one”  is  real- 
ized in  the  world,  and  if  the  churches  in  America  and 
Europe  which  are  trying  toefiTect  compromises  by  shear- 
ing off  corners  of  each  other’s  phylacteries  would  be- 
gin at  the  soul-saving  end  of  the  Church,  unity  in 
mission  work,  especially  in  the  foreign  field,  we  should 
be  united  before  we  knew  it,  .one  Church  in  Christ 


114 


Jesus  in  heaven  and  earth.  There  is  no  reason  for 
denominational  lines  in  the  foreign  field,  these  divi- 
sions only  work  mischief. 

The  whole  evangelical  Church  ought  to  work  to- 
gether here;  and  that  this  is  not  a vagary  we  will  quote 
the  testimony  of  a venerable  missionary,  a clergyman  of 
the  Church  of  England,  in  Umritsur  in  the  Punjab, 
India,  concerning  our  Presbyterian  missionaries  labor- 
ing in  Lahore,  in  his  account  of  the  founding  of  the 
work  of  the  Church  Missionary  Society  in  the  Punjab: 

“It  was  in  the  year  1849  that  God  put  it  into  the 
heart  of  one  who,  like  Cornelius,  the  Centurion,  ‘feared 
God  and  gave  much  alms.’  This  oflScer  of  high 
rank  in  the  East  India  Company’s  army,  after  the 
Sikh  war  had  terminated  in  the  annexation  of  the 
Punjab,  sent  secretly,  as  he  thought,  the  sum  of  ten 
thousand  rupees  to  aid  the  Church  Missionary  Society 
to  begin  work  in  the  new  dependency;  and  here  we 
come  to  the  Christian  unity  and  trustfulness  which 
must  ever  be  included  in  the  prayer  of  our  Lord. 
This  famous  general  sent  it  through  a Presbyterian 
missionary,  the  Rev.  John  R’ewton,  who, ' after  fifty 
years  of  faithful  service,  still  labors  in  Lahore,  re- 
vered and  honored  by  all,  together  with  the  Rev.  C. 
W.  Forman,  his  son-in-law,  and  with  his  sons,  all  of 
them  missionaries,  and  all  working  around  him,  with 
the  exception  of  one  who  now  rests  fi’om  his  mission- 
ary labors  in  God’s  presence  above.  Thus  happily 
commenced  the  Society’s  work  in  the  Punjab;  and 
thus  also  the  intimate  relationship  of  the  Church  Mis- 
sionary Society  with  the  American  Presbyterian  Board 
of  Missions,  which  has  existed  for  more  than  thirty 
years.  Whatever  others  may  say,  or  think,  we 
who  are  in  the  Punjab  have  seen,  and  therefore  we 


115 


"bear  witness  that  God’s  grace  is  not  confined  to  any 
one  Church  or  people.  Dearly  as  we  love  our  own 
Church,  we  have  seen  that  converts  are  not  made  only 
in  the  Church  of  England ; and  we  have  seen  also  that 
converts  of  the  Church  of  England  are  not  better 
Christians  than  those  of  other  Churches.  And  we 
say  this  because  the  Punjab  owes  a great  debt  of  grati- 
tude especially  to  Dr#  Duff  and  to  the  Free  Church  of 
Scotland  in  Bengal,  who  have  sent  to  the  Punjab 
many  of  the  most  influential  and  useful  native  Chris- 
tians, who  are  now  laboring  in  the  Punjab  in  connec- 
tion both  with  the  Church  Missionary  Society  and 
with  other  Societies.  AYe  cannot  blind  our  eyes  to 
facts;  for  we  see  that  God  is  no  respecter  of  persons, 
and  that  in  every  nation,  and  in  every  Church,  those 
who  fear  him  and  work  righteousness  are  accepted 
and  blessed  of  him.  We  speak  not  of  other  matters, 
but  of  God’s  blessing;  and  we  wot  that  whoever  God 
blesses  is  blessed,  and  none  can  reverse  it.” 

The  next  question  is.  What  is  the  mission  work  of 
India 'accomplishing,  and  how  is  it  doing  it?  The 
ways  are  as  varied  a:s  the  motions  of  truth,  and  it 
would  be  impossible  to  write  the  history  of  a single 
truth  in  motion  through  the  minds  of  men.  If  the  work 
is  measured  only  by  converts  some  might  ask,  “ Why 
was  this  waste?”  But  if  it  is  computed  by  the  divine 
estimate  of  the  soul’s  value  the  question  could  be  easily 
answered,  for  though  the  number  of  converts  is  not 
great  compared  with  years,  money  and  vital  forces 
expended,  and  many  have  been  hypocrites,  yet  the 
most  are  loyal  and  true,  and  are  tried  almost  every 
day  by  tests  that  would  make  a like  number  in  Chris- 
tian lands  falter.  No  language  will  describe  the  tor- 
tures to  which  they  are  subjected.  They  are  forever 


116 


boycotted  by  a tyranny  almost  omnipotent  and  fiend- 
ishly ingenious,  yet  they  have  sufiered  martyrdoms 
daily,  and  in  the  mutiny,  that  may  be  placed  beside  the 
bloody  histories  of  St.  Bartholomew  or  Smithfield. 
But  this,  at  best,  is  but  a partial  estimate  of  the  re- 
sults of  a century’s  seed-sowing.  The  great  heathen 
mass  has  been  modified  in  every  doctrine  and  prac- 
tice. Its  most  horrible  rites  have  been  abolished,  sut- 
tee and  child  murder,  and  now  hundreds  of  educated 
Hindus  are  denouncing  child  marriage  and  the  curses 
of  an  enforced  child  widowhood,  &c.  The  following 
will  give  an  idea  of  the  heathen  estimate  of  the  work 
in  one  locality : 

“ They  say,  Hindus  should  not  boast  any  longer  of 
being  such  in  the  ancient  sense  of  the  word.  They 
should  not  think  their  children  will  remain  faithful  to 
the  religion  of  their  fathers.  Hindus  cannot  hold 
their  own  much  longer  against  the  preaching  of  the 
Christian  padres  who  go  about  impressing  every  indi- 
vidual with  the  great  importance  of  possessing  a pure 
and  spiritual  religion  instead  of  one  having-nothing 
but  hollow  outward  signs,  and  of  the  importance  of 
schools  where  the  child  is  taught  its  duties  toward 
every  member  of  the  family.  The  Hindus  do  not  find 
fault  with  the  padres  for  all  this,  as  they  do  these 
things  for  the  glory  of  their  religion,  and  they  are 
sure  to  succeed,  as  we  have  not  the  means  of  defend- 
ing our  religion,  w'hereas  the  padres  can  afford  to 
spend  any  amount  of  money  to  induce  one  Hindu  to 
accept  the  faith  of  Jesus  Christ.  The  poorer  classes 
will  soon  be  induced  to  give  up  caste,  religion  and 
family  connections  for  the  sake  of  the  worldly  honor 
and  comfort  to  be  gained  by  accepting  Christianity. 
Our  boys  in  your  schools  are  like  greedy  fishes  and 


117 


are  easily  caught  by  the  book  of  missionary  lore. 
These  boys  do  not  regard  the  worship  of  the  gods  nor 
care  to  offer  Sradh  (feeding  the  Brahmins)  for  the 
benefit  of  departed  souls,  as  once  they  did.  This 
token  of  loving  memory  offered  year  by  year  for  the 
sake  of  a departed  father,  or  mother,  or  brother,  or 
sister  is  vanishing  from  our  community.  These  young 
men  view  things  and  persons  as  they  are  taught  in 
the  schools  by  the  padres,  and  hence  they  cannot  be 
any  longer  living  members  of  a Hindu  family.” 

The  impression  that  the  old  systems  will  never  re- 
vive is  well  nigh  universal,  yet  these  hereditary  relations 
and  the  power  of  habit  and  intellectual  biases,  to- 
gether v/ith  caste  influences,  -will  make  the  w^ork  slow. 
The  nation  may  have  to  be  made  infidel  before  it  is 
Christian.  It  may  have  to  be  denuded  of  all  its  religious 
faith  before  it  will  turn  to  Christianity.  But  the  work 
will  never  go  backward.  It  has  passed  into  the  circu- 
lations of  the  national  mind  and  will  never  leave  until 
it  has  made  a place  for  itself.  The  priests  know’  that 
the  change  is  coming  by  their  diminished  influence  and 
waning  moneyed  resources.  Even  the  fakirs  complain 
that  gifts  are  few  and  often  shams.  Education  is 
opening  the  W’ay  and  there  is  no  element  of  power 
like  teaching  English  to  the  people.  When  once  a man 
gets  to  thinking  in  English  he  never  can  get  back 
again  into  the  sinuosities  of  native  thought.  This  will 
first  revolutionize,  and  then  unify  the  nation  with  the 
British.  A native  is  more  than  half  English  w’hen 
he  can  read  and  think  in  the  government  Ip.nguage 
This  w’as  the  departure  for  which  Dr.  Duff  had  to  con- 
tend a^one,  not  only  against  native  hostility,  foreseeing 
its  future  effects,  but  against  the  truckling  of  the  Eng- 
lish, in  order  not  to  displease  the  natives.  These  are 


118 


his  sentiments  as  described  by  the  gifted  woman  who 
has  devoted  her  life  to  India  and  has  written  so  many 
delightful  books  under  the  nom  deplume  of  “A.  L.  O. 
E. “ Dr.  Duff  looked  on  the  English  tongue  as  the 
key  to  a rich  store-house  of  science,  wisdom  and  truth, 
where  eager  minds  and  hungry  souls  might  feed  and 
so  grow  to  manly  stature.  One  of  his  dearest  friends 
besought  him  to  give  up  his  purpose,  but  when  he 
found  him  immovable  said,  ‘^"ou  will  deluge  Calcutta 
with  rogues  and  villains.’  The  authoress  exclaims, 
‘ O,  what,  a strange  mistake  was  made  by  this  doubt- 
less well-meaning  man.  India  has  at  this  moment  no 
nobler  sons  than  the  boys  taught  in  the  College  by 
Dr.  Duff.’  ” 

Another  form  of  mission  work  quite  modern,  but  scrip- 
tural, and  found  in  the  catalogue  of  the  evidences  of 
Christ’s  Messiahship,  as  it  was  sent  to  reinforce  the  wav- 
ering faith  in  the  last  shadowed  days  of  John  the  Bap- 
tist, is  the  healing  of  the  sick.  The  hledical  Mission 
has  become  a wonderful  institution.  We  have  already 
referred  to  its  blessings  in  connection  with  the  work 
of  Ferozepore.  But  it  appears  everywhere  a new  and 
powerful  body  and  soul-saving  agency.  It  has  opened 
up  new  resources  suited  to  the  conditions  of  the  peo- 
ple, and  attractive  to  them,  as  relief  from  sufferings  is 
grateful.  It  has  also  come  as  a revelation  of  another 
life  to  women ; a profession  for  which  she  is  eminently 
qualified  by  nature  when  she  is  led  into  it  by  her  sym- 
pathies for  suffering.  Her  delicacy  of  touch,  her  quick 
perception,  her  sympathy  with  her  patients,  her  con- 
scientiousness in  the  discharge  of  her  work  put  her  in 
the  front  ranks  of  missionary  workers.  Beside  all 
this,  what  a blessed  outlet  for  the  wasting  energy  of 
our  own  country,  where  woman  for  ages  has  been  com- 


119 


pelled  by  the  slavery,  of  public  opinion  to  fold  her 
hands  either  in  idleness  or  has  had  to  be  a servant  to 
drudgeries,  to  labors  in  which  the  treasures  of  her  genius 
and  sympathies  could  have  no  mission.  Our  judg- 
ment has  everywhere  been  confirmed  that  the  con- 
version of  the  heatheii  world  will  be  largely  the 
triumph  of  the  sanctified  devotion,  genius  and  untir- 
ing love  of  women.  This  is  infinitely  better  than  wear- 
ing her  life  awav  on  the  heartless  drudgeries  of  the 
needle  or  as  sales-woman  or  in  clerkships. 

In  Lahore  this  work  is  appreciated  by  the  natives — 
it  breaks  down  their  hostilities.  The  cured  and  the 
relieved  will  tell  of  their  benefactors ; res<-raint  on 
these  glad  hearts  is  as  futile  as  the  Saviour’s  charge 
to  the  healed  man  not  to  tell  it,  but  gratitude  being 
greater  than  obedience  they  published  it  everywhere. 
A kind  word  about  our  diseases  is  a charm,  but 
an  act  of  healing  is  a power  which  can  never 
be  reproached,  words  of  sympathy  and  works  of 
healing  will  yet  open  to  the  gospel  every  door  in 
India.  The  work  in  Lahore  has  grown  with  marvel- 
lous rapidity,  and  it  brings  men  and  women  in  the 
best  mood  to  hear  of  the  grace  of  the  great  Physician, 
wdio  healed  the  sick.  It  meets  them  at  the  time  when 
they  will  be  true  and  prejudice  will  be  disarmed.  The 
increase  of  the  number  treated  is  more  than  two  thou- 
sand a year. 

In  a beautiful  part  of  the  city  of  Lahore  is  the 
Young  Ladies’  Seminary.  The  property  belongs  to 
our  Board,  but  the  school  is  conducted  by  Scotch 
ladies,  one  of  the  many  good  results  arising  out 
of  the  unity  of  the  Christian  Churches  in  India  by 
which  they  w^ork  in  beautiful  harmony  with  each 
other.  The  buildings  are  spacious  and  comfortable  and 


120 


the  work  done  is  first-class.  It  was  a surprising  and 
touching  sight  to  see  so  many  young  girls  lifted  from 
the  unspeakable  degradations  of  heathenism  into  the 
culture  of  Christian  ladies.  Some  of  them  were  beau- 
tiful and  the  very  impersonation  of  grace.  Their  hair 
was  plainly,  but  faultlessly,  dressed.  Their  move- 
ments were  lithe  and  their  eyes  glistened  in  their 
native  blackness.  The  costume  is  simple,  only  a wrap 
of  cotton  cloth,  but  gracefully  draped  about  the 
form  without  a seam  in  it.  They  are  usually  bare- 
footed, but  their  feet  are  perfect,  and  it  does  not 
look  out'  of  place  in  this  land  of  beauty.  Their 
attainments  were  considerable.  Most  of  the  pupils 
speak  English.  W e were  invited  to  address  this  com- 
pany of  washed  womanhood  with  clean  chuddas,  and 
we  hope  clean-souled.  They  were  as  appreciative  as 
the  same  number  of  young  ladies  at  home  would  have 
been,  and  when  the  advice  was  given  as  to  the  careful 
mastery  of  the  English  language,  if  for  no  better  rea- 
son that  “ a woman  is  more  powerful  in  scolding  her 
husband  if  she  can  do  it  in  two  languages,  and  that 
the  change  would  relieve  her  tongue  and  enable  her 
to  h@ld  out  longer,”  they  laughed  outright.  One  can- 
not but  fear  for  the  future  of  many  of  this  sunny-faced 
crowd  of  young  life,  for  they  are  bound  to  sufferings 
and  will  feel  it,  perhaps,  all  the  more  because  they 
have  been  lifted  for  a time  above  its  dreary  level. 

The  Zenana  work  is  a part  of  our  missionary  agen- 
cies, and  one  that  by  its  merits  demands  a place  in  any 
true  estimate  of  the  moral  forces  at  work  for  the  up- 
lifting of  India  from  its  dreary  centuries  of  degrada- 
tion. Among  the  workers  in  this  service  is  Mrs.  Mor- 
rison, the  wife  of  the  revered  missionary,  so  well- 
known  the  world  over,  and  especially  in  our  own 


121 


country,  Dr.  Morrison.  She  is  laboring  for  the  North 
Broad  Street  Presbyterian  church,  (Dr.  Harper’s,)  in 
Philadelphia,  in  Ferozepore.  She  is  an  accomplished 
lady  with  a devotion  only  known  in  those  born  in 
India,  to  whom  the  people  are  nearer  than  to  for- 
eigners, the  very  sunshine  and  cloudless  skies  mak- 
ing them  akin.  Her  work  is  prospering  and  the 
story  of  its  trial  and  hopes  very  absorbing.  (Since 
the  above  was  written  we  have  learned  of  her  death.) 
In  the  work  at  Lahore  Mrs.  Forman  and  all  the  wives 
of  the  missionaries,  together  with  native  helpers  and 
the  Misses  Harris,  work  in  this  department  of  the 
soul-saving  service,  having  schools  and  zenanas  under 
their  care.  Of  course,  there  was  no  admission  except 
to  ladies,  and  from  them  the  facts  have  been  gained 
from  their  observations.  A visit  with  Mrs.  F orman  was 
made  to  the  schools,  which  were  approached  through 
the  narrow  streets  of  the  native  city,  reeking  in  filth,  so 
that  progress  was  a gymnastic  performance  to  avoid 
unpleasant  contacts.  The  greatest  privation  of  the 
journey  seems  to  have  been  the  w’ant  of  clothes-pins 
to  clutch  the  nasal  organs,  which  forethought  had  not 
supplied. 

When  the  school,  called  so  by  accommodation,  was 
reached  the  teachers  and  scholars  were  found  huddled 
over  in  a dark  corner  where  scarcely  a ray  of  light 
had  the  temerity  to  appear.  Mrs.  Forman  asked  the 
native  teacher  why  she  did  not  leave  her  darkness  for 
the  light.  The  teacher  said  she  sat  there  for  luck,  as 
the  days  she  sat  in  those  sombre  shadows  she  had  most 
scholars — revealing  a superstition  as  deeply  wrought 
into  the  minds  of  the  natives  as  the  facts  of  their  life. 
Mrs.  Forman  examined  the  scholars,  who  had  made 
real  progress,  repeating  the  Catechism  with  prompt- 


122 


ness  and  accuracy.  They  also  read  the  Scriptures 
well.  The  habits  and  conditions  of  the  pupils  will  be 
fiurjTrising.  All  of  them  had  rings  in  their  noses,  some 
fiilly  two  inches  in  diameter,  hindering  any  possible 
use  of  handkerchiefs,  though  they  all  needed  them,  for 
the  natives  in  this  climate  are  not  often  found  without 
bad  colds.  The  flies  had  settled  in  dark  rings  about 
their  eyes  and  were  vigorously  plying  their  proboscises 
to  the  inflamed  lids,  but  this  did  not  disturb  their 
equanimity  sufficiently  to  cause  them  to  drive  them 
away.  Their  feet  and  legs  were  bare  and  their  brown 
skins  were  apparent  through  the  thin  chuddas,  and 
this  was  in  the  winter,  which  would  correspond  with 
our  early  October.  Their  ears  were  pulled  out  of 
shape  by  the  cheap  ear-rings  and  trinkets  hung  from 
the  top  to  the  lobe  of  the  ear,  which  is  pierced  in  slits 
to  accommodate  them;  but  these  conditions  do  not 
indicate  poverty,  for  Mrs.  Forman  said  all  these  gilds 
were  from  families  in  comfortable  circumstances.  One 
was  disgustingly  dirty,  upon  whose  face  there  was  no  in- 
dication of  the  presence  of  water  in  the  universe.  This 
attracted  the  attention  of  the  stranger,  and  to  satisfy 
her  curiosity  she  asked  the  cause  of  this  superlative 
dirtiness.  The  answ’er  was  that  she  had  lost  her 
mother,  and  it  was  their  custom  not  to  wash  the  or- 
phan faces  for  three  days  after  the  parental  demise. 
Among  the  number  was  a little  girl  dressed  in  boy’s 
clothes,  and  this  was  explained  as  a mark  of  the  greatest 
paternal  devotion,  when  they  dress  a daughter  as  a boy. 
This  may  not  raise  the  reader’s  ideas  of  the  progress  of 
the  work,  but  when  these  children  were  compared  with 
the  average  of  those  out  of  the  schools  it  would  not 
take  a moment  to  see  that  the  progress  had  been  won- 
derful. 


123 


From  this  educational  centre  a detour  was  made 
through  more  narrow,  crooked  alleys,  the  turns  so 
short  that  one  felt  the  need  of  a pivotal  verte- 
bra, and  skipping  and  leaping  over  things  to  be 
dreaded,  another  school  was  reached.  As  the  ap- 
proach was  observed  the  teacher  ran  out  into  the 
neighborhood  to  gather  up  her  scholars,  who  come 
and  go  as  the*  notion  takes  them  or  their  parents, 
as  they  take  no  note  of  time.  After  they  had 
been  gathered  they  numbered  about  fourteen,  rang- 
ing from  five  to  fifty  years  of  age,  and  one  “ yaller 
dog,”  all  sitting  together  on  the  earth  floor.  The  les- 
sons began,  which  brought  out  the  abilities  of  the 
school.  There  were  two  old  women,  fifty  or  more 
years  of  age,  who  had  one  pair  of  great  goggle-eyed 
spectacles,  about  two  inches  in  diameter,  between 
them,  which,  when  in  use,  were  tied  with  a dirty  white 
string  to  go  over  the  head  and  keep  them  in  place. 
The  first  one  called  to  read  squatted  on  the  floor 
dressed  in  bright  calico  trousers  and  a dirty  white 
chudda.  In  her  nose  she  had  a cluster  of  seven  pearls 
and  in  her  ears  huge  ear-rings,  which  had  distorted  them 
by  their  weight.  There  is  said  to  be  a profound  reason 
for  the  wearing  of  dirty  clothes  by  high  caste  women  in 
India,  We  were  told  that  it  is  a mark  of  virtue  to 
wear  dirty  cloches,  the  dirtier  the  more  immaculate 
the  virtue  one  would  surmise — prostitutes  wear  spot- 
less linen,  and  are  known  by  the  cleanness  of  their 
garments — :0  no  respectable  woman  in  India,  unless 
she  is  an  advanced  Christian  or  high  enough  in  gov- 
ernment favor  to  defy  custom,  will  wear  clean  clothes. 
When  a virtuous  woman  gets  a new  chudda,  we  were 
told,  she  will  have  them  soiled  by  her  servants  before 
appearing  in  them.  The  old  woman,  who  began  the  re- 


124 


citation  performance  for  the  benefit  of  the  visitor,  was 
' distinguished,  she  had  made  such  progress  in  her 
studies  as  to  call  ofifiicial  attention  and  admiration. 
The  English  government  gives  free  scholarship  to  those 
who  stand  examination  by  the  government  school  ofiS- 
cals,  and  are  by  them  promoted. 

The  other  old  woman  took  the  big-eyed  spectacles 
and  read  her  lesson  and  recited  her  Catechism,  and  so 
they  went  on  from  the  eldest  down  to  the  “yaller 
dog,”  who,  for  some  unexplained  reason,  was  excused, 
though  no  one  had  been  more  attentive.  Over  in  one 
corner  of  this  small  and  badly-lighted  room  was  the 
woman  who  lived  in  this  house  and  sub-rented  her 
premises  for  the  zenana  school.  She  had  a tiny  baby 
lying  between  her  limbs  almost  out  of  sight.  Near 
by  was  another  playing,  dressed  in  girls’  clothes,  but 
he  was  a boy  for  “ a’  that.”  It  was  a prank  being 
played  on  their  god  just  to  fool  him.  That  “ gal”  was 
a “ sure  enough  boy,”  and  the  mother  had  a reason 
for  this  little  fraud,  which  Mrs.  Forman  explained. 
It  was  to  deceive  the  gods  so  they  would  not  take 
him  away,  for  the  gods  are  not  supposed  to  have  much 
use  for  girls. 

In  this  connection  there  was  an  incident  which  is 
given  to  illustrate  one  of  the  many  phases  of  privation  in 
missionary  life.  Mrs.  Forman  takes  with  her  on  these 
zenana  services  her  little  flaxen-haired  girl,  a dear 
little  creature,  and  as  the  mother  went  into  these 
dreary  places  the  child  would  drop  down  beside  the 
wretched  children,  knowing  no  distinctions.  Her 
guest  said,  “ How  can  you  take  this  delicate  child  into 
this  poisonous  atmosphere  and  in  contact  with  this 
dirt  and  disease?  Are  you  not  afraid  that  she  will 
not  only  be  poisoned  but  infected  ?”  She  sighed  as  if 


■ 125 


in  a painfnl  strait  betwixt  two,  and  said,  “ It  is  a 
question  between  the  life  and  health  of  soul  and  body. 
If  I leave  her  at  home  with  the  servants  her  soul  will 
be  contaminated  by  their  vileness,  and  if  I take  her 
with  me  her  body  will  be  poisoned,  for  she  has  just 
recovered  from  typhoid  fever,  no  doubt  the  result  of 
the  exposures  of  which  you  speak.”  Another  incident 
in  connection  with  this  child  will  illustrate  how  soon 
childhood  catches  the  spirit  of  its  surroundings.  We 
took  this  little  girl  upon  our  lap  in  the  carriage,  and 
said,  “ What  a nice  little  girl  you  are.  If  you  would 
come  home  with  us  to  America  we  would  find  so  many 
nice  things  for  you.”  She  replied,  “Nobody  cares  for 
me.  I am  nothing  but  a little  girl.”  This  sentiment 
she  had  caught  from  hearing  the  sad  wails  of  mother- 
hood and  daughterhood  that  girls  were  ever  born  into 
the  world. 

Preaching  is  constantly  employed  as  God’s  own 
ordained  mode  of  saving  souls  and  as  constantly  hon- 
ored in  results.  Lahore  is  pretty  well  provided  for 
in  chapels,  which  free  the  missionary  from  many  of 
the  annoyances  of  out-door'  preaching,  where  it  is  con- 
stantly interrupted  by  those  who  desire  to  break  up 
his  services  or  turn  them  into  ridicule  or  rows.  It  is 
not  often  that  he  is  interrupted  when  in  the  chapel, 
beside  the  law  protects  him,  and  even  the  Mohamme- 
dan has  a respect  for  the  house  of  God  if  there  are  no 
pictures  or  images  in  it.  There  are  two  of  these,  one 
near  the  Lahore  Gate  and  the  other  at  the  Delhi 
Gate.  Four  regular  services  a week  are  held  by 
Messrs.  Forman,  Velteand  Golok  Nath,  assisted  by  as 
many  natives  preachers  and  workers.  In  these  chapels 
good  audiences  have  been  gathered,  many  of  the  peo- 
ple coming  regularly;  beside  these  formal  services 


126 


there  are  informal  meetings  held  in  the  morning  and 
preaching  in  the  bazaars  and  street-corners.  There 
is  a union  church  in  the  European  part  of  the  city 
and  a Sunday-school  where  two  services  have  been 
conducted  by  the  missionaries,  the  evening  service 
usually  by  Rev.  Mr.  Forman,  and  the  morning  by  Rev. 
Mr.  Velte,  who  has  superintended  the  Sabbath-school. 
The  congregations  are  mostly  of  European  and  Eura- 
sian Christians.  This  church  is  a giver  and  helper  in 
every  good  work.  It  would  be  tedious  to  describe 
every  point  at  which  the  pulses  of  Christian  life  are 
felt.  What  we  have  said  will  give  an  average  idea 
of  the  work,  its  quality  and  quantity. 

The  boys’  schools  and  college  are  the  most  impor- 
tant agencies  to  be  described.  These  must  influ- 
ence multitudes  whose  whole  ideas  and  character  are 
being  changed  into  the  intellectual  image  of  their 
teachers,  if  no  more,  but  many  have  assimilated  the 
principles  of  their  moral  character.  These  schools 
have  government  aid  and  the  classes  must  stand  ex- 
aminations to  assure  promotions  and  help.  The  Rev. 
Mr.  Forman  acts  as  superintendent.  There  are  over 
one  thousand  boys  in  these  classes.  Every  day  the 
fourth  period  of  instruction  is  devoted  to  the  study  of 
the  Bible,  the  whole  school  being  divided  into  seven 
sections  and  taught  by  the  missionaries,  Messrs.  Das, 
Charn  and  others,  and  many  of  the  small  boys  will 
compare  favorably  in  their  accurate  Bible  knowledge 
with  the  best  in  our  own  country. 

The  great  influence  of  godly  and  devoted  Christian 
men  tells  nowhere  with  greater  force  than  in  India. 
Here  true  character  is  appreciated.  The  heathen  honor 
consistent  goodness,  and  trust  men  whose  religion 
they  do  not  espouse  with  a confiding  devotion  little 


127 


short  of  veneration.  They  swear  by  them,  appeal  to 
their  opinions  of  what  is  right,  and  no  two  men  living 
on  the  earth  to-day  have  more  of  this  confidence  than 
these,  not  only  from  the  natives,  but  from  the  whole 
missionary  church,  representing  every  denomination. 
The  civil  departments  cf  the  government,  the  military, 
and  the  natives  in  every  caste  and  no  caste  revere  the 
two  venerable  and  noble  missionaries  who  have 
wrought  more  than  a half  century.  Revs.  Mr.  Newton 
and  Forman.  Their  names  are  spoken  in  sincerity 
and  devotion.  This  will  have  confirmation  in  what 
will  follow.  The  demand  for  a college  was  urgent* 
The  government  has  its  schools  and  colleges  of  a high 
order,  but,  like  most  government  schools,  they  are 
godless,  hot-beds  of  materialism  and  infidelity,  if  not  of 
atheism  outright.  The  government  of  India,  by  the 
lack  of  Christian  instruction,  is  hatching  nests  of  rebel 
vipers  to  rise  against  it  whenever  there  shall  be  an 
oppoBtunity.  Such  schools  convert  men  from  super- 
stition  and  idolatry  to  atheism,  teaching  them  neither 
to  fear  God  nor  regard  man.  The  best  men  in  the  civil 
and  military  service  in  India  feel  this  and  are  en- 
deavoring to  meet  the  fatal  want  by  contributing  to 
help  the  great  mission  church  to  do  it. 

A mission  college,  under  the  care  of  the  Presbyte- 
rian Board,  was  established  in  1864,  which  grew  out 
of  a school  founded  by  Rev.  Mr.  Forman  in  1849, 
and  continued  in  operation  until  1869,  when  the  Prin- 
cipal, Rev.  Mr.  Henry,  died,  and  with  other  untoward 
events  it  had  to  be  suspended.  It  was  a trial  to  the 
missionaries  and  a daily  regret  to  the  Christian  Euro- 
peans and  native  Christians  in  the  Punjab.  In 
June,  1886,  it  was  revived  under  the  most  favorable 
circumstances.  A class  was  organized  of  sixteen 


128 


members,  who  will  be  ready  to  enter  the  intermediate 
examinations  of  the  Punjab  University  in  1888.  But 
how  can  a few  missionaries  start  a college,  buy  ground, 
erect  buildings,  found  libraries,  endow  professorships, 
<&c.?  The  Presbyterian  Board  has  no  such  resources, 
and  has  never  attempted  any  thing  greater  than  sup- 
porting missionary  teachers.  The  influence  of  these 
missionaries,  so  trusted  and  true,  has  made  the  long 
desired  wish  a fact.  The  college  is  in  operation  in  the 
building  known  as  Ring  Mahal,  in  use  now  by  the 
Mission  Hill  School,  with  a faculty  consisting  of  the 
Rev.  C.  W.  Forman,  M.A.,  Principal;  Rev.  H.  C. 
Velte,  M.A.,  Professor  of  English  Language  and 
Literature ; Rev.  J.  H.  Orbisoti,  M.A.,  M.D.,  one  of 
our  Pennsylvanians,  a graduate  of  the  University  in 
Philadelphia,  Professor  of  Chemistry ; and  the  brother 
of  a gifted  native  scholar  and  preacher,  heard  to  the 
delight  of  so  many  before  the  General  Assembly  of 
the  Presbyterian  Church  in  the  United  States  of 
America;  Rev.  Hari  Das  Chatterji  is  Professor  of 
Mathematics  and  Physics ; Maulvi  Bakhsh  is  Instruc- 
tor in  Persian  and  Pundit ; Ganesh  Dutt  is  Instructor 
in  Sanscrit. 

But  where  did  the  money  for  ground  and  buildings 
come  from  ? The  government,  which  knows  these  men 
and  their  works  and  trusts  them,  gave  them  six  acres 
of  the  finest  land  in  the  city  of  Lahore  and  from 
thirty  to  fifty  thousand  rupees.  This  is  but  one  of 
many  examples  of  the  appreciation  of  the  Anglo-In- 
dian government  of  the  American  Board  of  Foreign 
Missions,  as  well  as  constant  favors  from  Europeans 
to  the  missionaries  and  their  work,  and  it  is  a poor 
response  to  these  gifts  that  we  hear  it  said,  “We 
won’t  give  money  to  the  Indian  missions.  England 


129 


ought  to  take  care  of  India.”  England  is  doing  her 
best,  and  has  given  as  much  to  our  missions  as  we  have 
done  ourselves.  The  Presbyterian  Board  holds  thou- 
sands of  dollars  worth  of  |)roperty,  not  far  from  a quar- 
ter of  a million,  given  by  the  Anglo-Indian  government 
and  British  subjects,  and  we  could  not  show  ourselves 
more  unworthy  of  the  confidence  our  missionaries 
have  inspired  than  to  be  careless  about  the  obligations 
of  such  trusts. 

The  Presbyterian  Church  has  lost  territory  once 
occupied,  for  want  of  men  and  means.  Territory 
has  gone  from  our  hands  sactified  to  us  by  the 
martyr  blood  of  our  own  countrymen,  and  it  is  now 
time  to  retrieve  and  not  curtail.  Of  course,  these 
faithful  men  and  women  on  the  field  have  not  been 
governed  by  church  selfishness,  and  have  invited 
other  churches  to  occupy,  as  it  is  all  Christ’s  work. 
The  Church  Missionary  Society  w’as  invited  by  mis- 
sionaries of  the  Presbyterian  Board  of  Foreign  Mis- 
sions to  occupy  Lahore  and  work  side  by  side,  which 
they  have  done  in  great  harmony  and  mutual  helpful- 
ness. And  now  this  Society  has  stretched  its  lines 
from  Lahore  and  Umritsur  up  into  Afghanistan  itself, 
and  is  occupying  what  many  have  thought  to  have 
been  the  birthplace  of  the  race,  for  Paradise  has  been 
located  here.  It  has  its  Divinity  School  in  Lahore, 
orphanages  and  other  agencies,  for  Lahore  is  a 
strategic  point  in  the  spiritual  conquest  of  India. 
The  British  government  in  India  has  opened  up  a 
military  railroad  as  far  north  as  Peshawur,  and  this 
has  brought  that  north  country  into  the  heart  of  the 
Christian  operations  of  India.  On  the  map  Goojerat 
will  appear  a most  important  point,  and  off  a little 
west  will  be  found  Sialkot,  Gujranwala,  Jhelum,  and 


130 


Shahpoor.  Here  the  United  Presbyterians  of  Amer* 
ca  have  a mission,  'wonderful  in  its  somewhat  novel 
yet  gospel  mode  of  reaching  the  people.  It  is  a con- 
tinued marvel  to  other  missions  how  they  manage  to 
disciple  so  many.  The  number  of  baptisms  is  anom- 
alous, and  if  one-half  hold  out  it  is  in  converting 
» power  the  most  u’osperous  mission  in  India.  Even  if 
a large  percentage  are  ignorant  when  baptized,  it  still 
breaks  caste,  and  they  are  'segregated  from  their 
heathen  associations  and  are  more  accessible  to  gospel 
influences  ever  after.  So  far  as  we  can  form  any  just 
judgment,  it  is  in  their  favor ; their  work  in  many 
respects  is  Pentecostal,  and  shows  the  honor  God  ever 
puts  on  his  own  methods  of  saving  souls  by  first  sep- 
arating them  from  their  soul-destroying  associations, 
and  then  instructing  and  raising  them  up  in  the  oppor- 
tunities God’s  providences  afford  in  daily  life. 

The  work  in  this  mission  begun  by  the  Rev. 
Andrew  Gordon,  D.D.,  who,  wdth  his  wife  and  sister. 
Miss  E.  G.  Gordon,  sailed  from  New  York  city,  Sep- 
tember 28,  1854,  and  commenced  operations  in  a very 
humble  way  and  among  the  lowest  of  the  people,  the 
inmates  of  the  poor-house  near  the  station,  several  of 
whom  afterwards  became  Christians,  another  example 
that  Christ’s  gospel  never  fails  with  the  rich  because 
it  begins  with  the  poor.  In  1856  two  other  ordained 
ministers  were  added,  and  educational  agencies  were 
organized  and  orphanages  founded.  The  work  suflTered 
by  the  mutiny,  and  the  missionaries  had  to  take  refuge 
in  the  fort  at  Lahore.  Seven  years  after  they  began 
their  seed-sowing  the  first  harvest  fruits  were  gathered. 
The  first  two  converts,  two  men,  were  baptized,  and 
the  first  native  ministers.  Revs.  E.  P.  Swift  and  G.  lY. 
Scott,  to  whom  these  honored  names  had  been  given 


131 


in  their  baptism,  were  ordained  in  1859.  The  mission 
has  had  its  reverses — it  would  have  been  no  account 
without  them.  These  were  mainly  for  want  of  proper 
and  timely  support,  the  cause  of  mishap  to  most  mis- 
sions. An  industrial  school  and  a boy’s  and  girl’s  or- 
phanage were  closed  in  1872.  But  a Theological  Semi- 
nary has  been  a blessed  success.  There  were  opened 
also  a Christian  Training  Institute  and  a girl’s  board- 
ing school.  Two  mission  high  schools  are  in  success- 
ful operation,  one  at  Sialkot  and  the  other  at  Gujran- 
wala,  and  over  seventy  other  primary  schools  in  cities 
and  villages  in  their  missionary  district.  While  the 
first  converts  were  of  high  caste,  raising  hopes  in  this 
direction  not  realized,  the  progress  of  the  work  among 
the  poor  and  lowly  has  been  phenomenal.  The  mis- 
sion has  had  an  unexampled  growth  in  numbers,  ex- 
tending from  one  hundred  and  twenty  in  1870  to  near 
four  thousand  now. 

CHAPTER  XII. 

A SPEECH  TO  THE  ORIENTALS. 

NE  of  the  indications  of  the  presence  of  an  insti- 


tution of  learning  is  speech-hearing  and  speech- 
making.  Nothing  takes  hold  on  the  aspiring  youthful 
mind  like  this  mode  of  conceiving  and  uttering 
thought.  It  is  in  India  as  much,  if  not  more,  of  a 
passion  than  in  America.  Oratory  was  born  in  the 
Orient,  and  its  methods  were  first  formulated  in  the 
land  of  the  sunrise.  The  American  pilgrim  was  not 
long  in  Lahore  before  an  invitation  was  extended  to 
address  the  students  of  the  mission  college,  and  the 
subject  chosen  by  the  Hindus  w’as  “America.”  It  is 
everywhere  the  land  of  promise.  It  is  the  romance 


132 


and  poetry  of  the  Old  AVorld.  Students  from  the 
government  institutions  were  invited,  and  the  chapel 
was  filled  with  “puggerried”  heads;  such  an  audience 
had  never  been  seen  or  addressed  before.  We  could 
scarce  believe  in  our  own  identity  while  in  circum- 
stances not  even  dreamed  of  in  the  wildest  fancies  of  the 
imagination.  The  danger  of  such  an  attempt  was  not 
apprehended  or  it  would  never  have  been  made. 
There  were  all  the  hostilities  of  fiercely  contending 
nationalities  present,  both  toward  the  foreigner  and 
between  each  other.  Caste  divisions,  national  and 
local  hostilities  of  birth  and  religion,  habits  of  thought, 
opinions,  life  and  society,  which  made  this  congrega- 
tion a collection  of  inquisitive  hostilities.  It  would 
be  impossible  for  a Western  foreigner  to  address 
Mohammedans  and  Hindus  at  the  extremes  of  religi- 
ous antagonism  and  not  tread  on  convictions  sacred 
to  both.  But  they  had  made  up  their  minds  to  let 
the  stranger  say  what  he  pleased  in  his  address  about 
America  and  to  take  out  of  it  what  suited  their  tastes, 
and  be  polite  at  least  to  what  they  did  not  like,  or 
charge  his  mistakes,  in  their  conceptions,  to  his  ignor- 
ance. One  thing  he  relied  on,  when  one  party  was 
being  lampooned  he  would  have  the  sympathy  of  the 
other,  so  he  would  be  uppermost  half  the  time  with 
half  the  audience. 

This  was  an  assembly  of  married  men.  This  con- 
dition can  be  guessed  with  the  eyes  shut — marriage  is 
something  done  for  the  men  of  the  country  in  infancy. 
President  Forman  asked  a class  in  college  of  one  hun- 
dred, “How  many  of  you  are  married?  All  who 
are  rise  up,”  when  all  but  one  rose,  and  he  im- 
mediately explained  in  embarrassment  that  he  was 
very  soon  to  be  married.  It  was  a splendid  audience, 


133 


for  there  is  a surprising  beauty  about  the  cultivated 
manhood  of  India.  As  a race  they  are  handsome, 
with  high  foreheads  and  heads  erect;  their  eyes 
are  bright  and  expressive  and  their  bearing  stately. 
Having  said  this  much  of  the  audience  we  may  ven- 
ture to  report,  as  far  as  possible  out  of  memory,  the 
speech  on  “America.” 

Gentlemen,  we  take  it  for  granted  that  in  your 
desire  to  hear  of  the  greatness  and  goodness  of 
the  government  of  the  United  States,  the  country 
of  free  men  and  free  women,  that  you  desire  to 
imitate  all  that  is  good  in  it  and  to  abhor  all  that 
is  evil.  This  reminds  us  in  the  beginning  of  the 
fable  of  the  humming-bird,  which,  being  dissatisfied 
with  its  position  in  the  world,  so  diminutive  in  size,  so 
limited  in  its  sphere  of  usefulness  and  restrained  in  its 
ambitions,  sought  council  of  an  owl,  the  philosopher 
bird,  to  find  the  secret  of  success  in  the  world.  The 
owl  rolled  his  dreary  eyes,  squinted  and  blinked  for 
some  time,  and  then,  in  great  deliberation,  said  in  a 
voice  of  deepest  gutturals,  “ Mrs.  Humming-bird,  you 
are  tired  of  your  insignificance  in  the  world.  It  is  not 
for  me  to  say  whether  your  description  of  yourself  is 
true ; but,  as  you  have  asked  my  advice,  I will  say 
that  if  you  desire  to  raise  your  race  from  humming- 
birds to  owls,  you  must  first  lay  owls’  eggs,  and  if  you 
will  hatch  owls’  eggs  you  must  spread  yourself.” 
Gentlemen,  if  you  will  be  free  and  raise  your  coun- 
try to  a place  with  the  great  nations,  you  must  begin 
by  doing  great  things,  and  if  you  desire  to  find  where 
they  are  and  the  results  wrought  by  them  you  will 
find  them  in  the  Christian’s  Book — the  Bible.  This 
book  and  its  teachings  have  made  the  greatest  nations 
on  the  earth — England,  Germany -and  America.  The 


134 


Bible  is  the  chart  to  each,  the  truths  of  the  Bible  are 
the  pulses  to  their  noblest  endeavors.  It  is  not  the 
Book  of  any  party,  as  the  Koran  to  you  Mohamme- 
dans, or  the  Vedas  to  you  Hindus,  but  everybody’s 
Book.  It  unites  men  in  general  purposes  and  move- 
ments. Each  reads  it  for  himself  and  thinks  about  it 
for  himself,  but  in  great  movements  all  are  united.  In 
England  and  America  there  are  many  divisions  in  the 
Christian  Churches  about  a great  many  things,  but  if 
danger  comes  they  are  all  united,  while  you  in  India 
hate  each  other,  and  would  as  soon  see  a foreigner  rule 
as  either  of  the  parties  of  your  own  country.  In 
America,  at  the  beginning  of  the  country,  Africans 
were  brought  and  held  as  slaves,  and  in  part  of  the  coun- 
try continued  in  bondage  for  nearly  a century.  The 
Bible  said  it  was  wicked  to  hold  a fellow-man  in  servi- 
tude as  a man  would  an  ox  or  ass.  It  is  the  Book  of 
freedom  and  teaches  how  men  can  be  free.  Here  is 
a single  utterance: — “If  the  truth  make  you  free 
ye  shall  be  free  indeed.”  These  various  divisions 
in  the  Christian  Church  read  the  same  Book  and  soon 
agreed  on  the  one  fact,  that  slavery  was  a great  curse 
and  it  must  be  removed,  and  so  it  was.  It  cost 
millions  of  lives  and  dollars,  but  the  Bible  taught 
them  that  it  was  wicked,  and  all  these  many  Chris- 
tian denominations  united  on  this  and  accomplished 
it ; and  so  they  will  go  on  in  unity  about  every  great 
issue.  You  Mohammedans  and  Hindus  cannot  agree 
long  enough  on  any  one  policy  or  purpose  to  free  India. 

The  principles  of  government  in  America  are  all  in 
the  Bible.  The  laws  of  the  free  people  of  America  are 
adaptations  and  formulations  out  of  the  great  Book 
with  which  your  missionary  teachers  are  trying  to  im- 
press upon  you  that  the  peoples  of  India  may  be  free 


135 


and  united  in  the  great  truths  of  the  Christian  relig- 
ion and  Christian  politics  and  government  administra- 
tion, which  will  make  India  as  free  as  America,  or 
England,  or  Germany.  Some  ot*  you  may  have  won- 
dered why  American  teachers  and  missionaries  have 
come  all  the  way  to  India  to  teach  its  peoples.  Some 
may  have  thought  it  was  only  to  destroy  your  religion, 
to  put  another  in  its  place.  But  this  has  not  been 
your  experience.  Whatever  is  good  in  your  religion 
is  taught  by  the  Christians,  and  more.  They  teach 
a kindlier  and  better  way  to  live,  not  to  hate  each 
other.  The  Bible  says,  “ Love  your  enemies,  do  good 
to  them  that  hate  you.”  “Thou  shalt  love  the  Lord, 
thy  God,  with  all  thy  heart  and  thy  neighbor  as  thy- 
self.”. The  Christian  religion  teaches  us  to  be  kind 
and  helpful  to  each  other.  One  of  you  might  be  dying 
on  the  streets,  and  if  a man  did  not  belong  to  your  caste 
you  would  not  receive  from  him  a drop  of  water.  But 
in  sickness  and  suffering  the  Bible  forbids  all  caste — 
the  Christian  must  do  good  to  all  men. 

And  now  I will  explain  how  it  is  that  your  Chris- 
tian teachers  have  left  such  countries  as  England  and 
America  and  their  friends  and  homes  to  come  here. 
It  is  because  this  Bible  teaches  them  that  this  is  their 
duty — that  those  who  have  the  blessings  of  the  Chris- 
tian religion  must  share  them  with  those  who  are 
poorer  than  themselves.  The  missions  to  India  be- 
gan in  a college  somewhat  like  this.  Some  students 
had  been  reading  the  command  of  our  Lord,  “ Go  ye 
into  all  the  world  and  preach  or  teach  the  gospel  to 
every  creature.”  They  thought  it  w^as  their  duty,  and 
so  they  went  out  by  a hay-stack,  near  a river  called 
the  Hoosac,  to  pray  God  to  show  them  their  duty  to 
India,  and  there  they  made  up  their  minds  to  come 


136 


and  give  their  lives  to  this  great  and  oppressed  coun- 
try. They  have  been  here  since,  and  tlieir  country- 
men read  in  this  Bible  that  it  is  their  duty  to 
support  them  in  their  efforts  to  help  you  to  be 
better  and  to  give  you  the  freedom  we  have  at 
home,  and  so  millions  of  dollars  have  come  and  are 
coming  to  give  better  religion  and  government  to  In- 
dia. But  for  the  Bible  they  would  have  stayed  at 
home,  and  said,  “Our  country  is  enough  for  us. 
What  do  we  care  for  India,  another  race  of  people 
and  no  kin  of  ours  ? Let  them  fight,  or  starve,  or  do 
what  they  please.”  But  for  the  Bible  no  money  would 
have  conie  when  the  famine  raged.  Only  Christians 
ever  give  money  to  help  the  suffering  of  other  nations. 
Did  China  send  any  money  when  your  people  were 
starving?  Did  Turkey  or  Egypt?  No,  no!  I per- 
ceive that  the  infidel  productions  of  Robert  Ingersoli 
have  reached  you,  and  I am,  for  your  sake,  sorry  for 
it,  for  you  have  enough  of  this  kind  of  men,  who  have 
never  done  you  any  good.  The  people  who  denounce 
Christianity . never  do  any  thing  for  down-trodden 
humanity.  Mr.  Ingersoli  never  sent  a jyice  to  feed  your 
starving  people  during  the  famine.  He  and  his  kind 
have  never  started  a school  to  instruct ; never  have  they 
founded  a hospital  or  a home  for  orphans.  Chris- 
tianity only  lives  and  moves  and  has  its  being  in  its 
benefactions.  Mr.  Ingersoli  taxes  you  for  books  that 
never  help  you,  that  condemn  only  those  who  are  try- 
ing to  raise  up  India  and  gives  you  no  help  in  the 
place  of  those  institutions  he  would  destroy. 

You  have  asked  me  to  tell  you  what  has  made 
America  so  great,  her  people  so  free  and  prosperous. 

I have  told  you  where  India  can  get  principles  which  . 
will  raise  her  to  the  same  grandeur,  and  you  have  not 


137 


only  the  Bible,  but  men  and  women  inspired  by  it  to 
help  you,  and  others  are  coming.  All  you  need  is  to 
fall  into  the  grand  and  victorious  march  of  Christian 
principles,  freedom  and  progress.  These  Christian 
principles  of  equality  before  God  will  give  every  man 
an  opportunity  to  get  up  by  diligence  unrestrained  and 
to  get  the  reward  of  his  labors.  One  class  of  society 
cannot  tyrannize  over  another.  Every  man  is  pro- 
tected in  the  possession  of  what  his  diligence  has 
gained  for  him.  But  here  in  your  country  the  strong 
trample  on  the  weak  and  your  goods  are  never  safe 
except  under  the  protection  of  the  English  govern- 
ment. Now,  every  man  ought  to  be  safe  in  his  liber- 
ties and  his  effects,  because  his  neighbor  would  feel  it 
was  not  right  to  take  what  did  not  belong  to  him. 
Right  ought  to  be  your  police  and  not  a man  with  a 
gun  or  sabre,  and  this  would  be  the  case  if  you  be- 
lieved in  and  followed  the  teachings  of  the  Bible. 
Now,  there  are  things  a nation  must  do  for  itself  if  it 
would  be  great — it  must  raise  the  stature  and  charac- 
ter of  its  manhood.  You  must  become  stronger  men 
with  bigger  legs  and  stalwart  bodies,  and  to  do  this 
you  must  avoid  excesses  in  youth ; restrain  your  pas- 
sions and  eat  stronger  food.  Nearly  two-thirds  of  the 
world  are  rice-eaters  and  the  rest  are  meat-eaters,  and 
the  meat-eaters  overcome  the  vegetarians. 

You  cannot  become  a free  and  great  people  unless 
you  are  united  in  purpose  and  able  to  defend  yourself 
in  battle  if  it  is  required.  But  you  cannot  be  men  of 
intellect  and  culture  without  physical  strength — a 
strong  body  is  necessary  to  a strong  mind  and  to  en- 
dure the  strain  necessary  to  intellectual  culture. 
Your  nation  was  young  once  and  powerful  as  any, 
but  it  lost  its  strength.  The  men  of  the  North  came 


138 


across  your  mountains  and  conquered  you.  They 
were  stronger  in  body  and  more  united.  To  get  back 
the  glory  of  India  you  must  be  first  good  and  then 
strong.  Every  thing  here  is  old ; your  philosophies 
are  feeble  with  age,  your  ideas  of  government  are  de- 
crepit; you  must  get  newer  and  more  vital  ideas,  and 
this  you  can  best  do  by  learning  the  English  language. 
It  will  put  you  into  a new  world  of  thought  and  its  re- 
lations. It  will  make  old  things  new,  and  it  will  put  you 
in  the  circles  of  the  greatest  intellectual,  political  and 
commercial  national  life.  As  long  as  you  only  speak 
and  read  Hindustani  so  long  you  will  think  and  live 
in  the  effete  ideas  of  the  musty  past  and  cling  to  the 
institutions  of  two  thousand  years  ago.  The  differ- 
ence between  the  old  Oriental  nations  and  the  West- 
ern is  in  the  inverted  ends  by  which  you  grasp  facts 
and  think  on  them.  You  are  intellectually  at  the 
wrong  end  of  things.  This  will  be  seen  in  what  we 
witnessed  in  Bombay  a few  days  since-  There  was 
an  ox  on  one  of  the  streets  'svhich  had  not  a single 
joint  of  his  tail  in  place.  It  was  a question  of  inves- 
tigation what  had  injured  the  tail  of  the  brute,  when, 
to  our  amazement,  it  was  discovered  that  his  owner 
drove  him  by  the  tail.  When  he  wished  him  to  go 
to  the  right  he  twisted  his  tail  in  this  direction,  and 
so  if  he  desired  him  to  go  to  the  left.  This  fact  has 
a wider  generalization  than  most  of  you  young  men, 
so  familiar  with  the  tail  propulsion,  would  notice. 
This  is  Oriental.  The  trouble  is  that  every  thing  is 
worked  rather  by  the  tail  than  the  head.  Your 
policy  must  be  right  about  face,  and  govern  more  by 
the  head  of  things.  If  there  was  any  intelligent 
force  in  that  ox  it  was  in  his  brain  and  not  in  his  rear; 
beside  it  is  a law  of  mechanics  to  gear  your  desired 


•139 


motion  as  nearly  as  possible  to  the  motor.  A West- 
erner would  take  the  beast  by  the  horns  in  order  to 
get  as  near  his  intelligent  motor  power  as  possible  and 
let  his  tail  subserve  the  purposes  for  which  it  was 
created — to  keej)  the  flies  away  and  for  ornament. 

Another  custom  strikes  a foreigner  strangely,  and 
one  he  can  only  think  is  indicative  of  weakness  of 
character.  That  is  your  constitutional  reluctance  to 
stand  on  your  legs.  You  px’efer  to  sit  at  your  w’ork. 
The  carpenter  sits  down  in  the  dust  and  holds  the 
board,  or  piece  of  lumber,  he  is  planing  between  his 
toes  or  feet,  instead  of  standing  up  beside  it  on  a bench 
where  he  can  employ  his  whole  person.  The  man 
who  wears  out  his  seat  instead  of  his  feet  cannot  do 
more  than  half  as  much  work  as  the  European,  though 
he  may  have  as  much  brains  and  skill.  The  black- 
smith tries  to  sit  at  his  work.  In  Europe  shoemakers 
and  tailors  sit,  but  they  are  not  the  equals  in  strength 
of  the  man  who  does  not  get  off  his  feet  until  he  leaves 
his  works.  So  you  see  what  big  legs  Europeans  and 
Americans  have — they  grow  large  by  constant  use. 
India  cannot  rise  to  any  thing  great  because  she  sits 
in  the  dust.  To  use  a slang  phrase  of  my  country, 
you  must  “get  up  and  get”  if  you  are  to  take  your 
place  and  march  on  beside  the  living  nations  of  to- 
day. 

The  future  of  India  to  a foreigner,  freed  from  your 
local  environments,  is  bright.  The  most  beautiful 
country  on  the  earth,  supporting  now  more  people 
to  the  acre,  China  excepted,  than  any  other,  and  with 
vast  plains,  able  to  support  millions  more,  untouched. 
It  has  a climate  that  draws  from  the  earth  all  its  re- 
sources, and  yet  exhausts  it  less  than  in  any  other 
part  of  the  world’s  surface.  You  have  the  most  beau- 


140 


tiful  skies,  the  widest  expanse  of  never-exhausting 
floral  wealth,  the  sublimest  mountains,  towering  above 
all  others,  moistening  and  cooling  the  summer  heats 
around,  and  standing  forever  above  the  clouds  with 
diadems  of  virgin  snow.  Your  rivers  are  singularly 
directed  from  mountain  heights  to  divide  the  land 
for  irrigation  and  commerce.  Stately  palms  pro- 
ducing the  choicest  food,  great  fields  of  wheat  like 
golden  seas,  vast  ranges  of  pasturage,  fruit  trees 
innumerable,  the  odors  of  countless  floral  beauties 
that  garnish  your  fair  fields  and  gardens  and  load 
the  atmosphere  you  breathe.  Your  people  are  quick, 
active,  patient  and  diligent,  with  great  natural  capaci- 
ties for  learning,  for  politics,  for  art,  for  war.  The 
monuments  of  your  race  awe  and  overpower  the  trav- 
ellers of  every  country.  You  want  nothing  but  life 
in  new  relations.  You  need  a new  religion  which  will 
unify  India  in  the  bonds  of  universal  brotherhood. 
You  need  progress  forward,  not  backward.  Cease  to 
dream  of  the  Empire  of  the  Moguls,  or  of  those  before 
them,  but  of  an  Empire  to  come  when  India  will  take 
her  place  in  the  onward  march  of  national  life,  the 
brightest  of  all,  and  to  this  end  think  not  of  blood- 
shed but  progress  by  peace.  You  need  not  overthrow 
the  government  under  which  you  live,  but  fit  your- 
selves to  become  its  integral  parts,  fit  yourselves  to 
fill  its  offices,  to  be  the  executives  of  the  royal  will 
and  the  royal  purpose  that  India  shall  be  the  brightest 
jewel  in  the  British  crown,  because  Victoria’s  Indian 
subjects  can  adminster  every  department  of  the  govern- 
ment for  their  own  best  interests  and  their  own  glory, 
through  their  own  equities  and  their  usefulness  to  her 
own  people. 

It  was  not  the  intention  of  the  speaker  to  protract 
the  remarks  into  a speech,  fearing  the  crossing  of  the 


141 


prejudices  of  the  several  parties  before  he  was  through, 
but  such  was  the  desire  to  hear  that  when  a stop  was 
proposed  shouts  went  up  from  all  Hindus  and  Moham- 
medans to  go  on.  They  had  invited  the  speech,  and 
were  determined  that  the  speaker  should  talk  as  he 
chose,  whether  it  ran  against  their  cherished  ideas  and 
institutions  or  not.  It  was  a wonderful  welcome, 
manly  and  appreciative,  and  but  few  natures  would 
have  been  patient  under  such  an  arraignment  from 
a foreigner.  It  only  shows  the  progress  made  m this 
wonderful  country  by  a no  less  wonderful  people. 
One  young  man  said  as  the  address  was  coming  to  a 
close,  “We  are  not  tired.  You  might  as  well  go  on 
all  night.  We  have  nothing  else  to  do.” 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

POLITICAL  AND  MILITARY  CONDITIONS  IN  INDIA. 

T~XE  shall  be  eyes  unto  thee”  was  a promise  long 

XJL  ago  uttered,  but  the  service  of  vicarious 
seeing  has  not  ended.  The  traveller  goes  to  see  for 
others,  and  his  duty  is  to  see,  think  of  and  decide  on, 
every  object  or  subject  that  intrudes  itself  upon  him. 
He  is  not  only  to  see  what  may  be  to  his  own  taste,  but 
what  may  suit  others,  and  thus  be  a source  of  pleasure 
or  information.  India,  to  the  thinking  world,  cannot 
be  appreciated  without  the  consideration  of  its  British 
occupation.  But  for  England  it  would  be  of  no  more 
special  interest  than  Africa.  No  man  would  venture 
into  the  domain  of. prophecy  so  far  as  even  to  conjecture 
when,  in  its  factional  state,  it  could  guide  itself  into 
any  other  condition  than  barbarism.  The  cockpit  of 


142 


India  has  now  been  reached ; from  Lahore  to  Cabool  the 
battles,  decisive  of  her  destiny,  have  been  fought,  and 
must  be  fought  in  the  future,  for  if  an  invading  army 
ever  reaches  Lahore  the  country  is  gone.  Afghanistan 
1 is  the  battle-field  on  which  the  possession  of  this  crown 
, jewel  must  be  contested.  It  is  about  two  hundred 
and  fifty  miles  to  Peshawur  from  Lahore.  There  is  a 
good  railroad  to  this  point  with  capacity  for  supplying 
an  army. 

The  dangers  to  India  come  from  two  sources — inter^ 
nal  and  external.  To  understand  these  it  will  be 
necessary  to  go  briefly  into  the  political  formations 
and  conditions  of  the  country.  The  government  of 
India  was  not  made,  but  grew  out  of  strange  and 
apparently  contradictory  elements — it  usually  came 
up  out  of  ruins.  The  Queen  in  England  moves  through 
the  will  and  work  of  a ^Minister,  who  is  responsible  to 
Parliament.  But  in  India  she  acts  through  a Minis- 
ter who  is  Secretary  of  State  for  India,  and  is  always 
a member  of  the  Cabinet ; so  he  represents  the  body 
of  which  he  is  a responsible  member.  This  Secretary 
of  State  has  a council  to  assist  him,  the  members 
of  which  are  acquainted  generally  with,  and  skilled 
in,  Indian  affairs,  who  are  appointed  by  the  crown 
— a council  of  convenience  to  the  Secretary  of 
State,  for  there  is  no  obligation  on  him  to  follow 
their  advice  any  further  than  it  suits  him.  The 
Viceroy  represents  the  crown  of  Britain,  and  of 
late  years  he  has  always  been  the  exponent  of  the 
views  of  the  English  Ministry  in  power.  He  has  been 
a Governor-General  rather  than  Viceroy  since  the 
union  of  the  Presidencies  of  Bombay,  Madras  and 
Bengal  in  the  title  of  Governor-General.  The  Vice- 
roy, or  Governor-General,  is  counselled  by  a per- 


143 


manent  Cabinet  of  seven  persons  appointed  by  the 
Secretary  of  State.  One  of  this  council  is  always 
Commander-in-Chief ; one  of  the  Cabinet  is  what 
we  would  call  Secretary  of  the  Treasury,  a chief 
financier,  and  the  other  must  be  a lawyer,  whose  office 
would  correspond  to  our  Attorney-General.  The 
Viceroy  is  ostensibly  a much  advised  man,  but  this  is 
only  a matter  of  will,  for  he  can  do  as  he  pleases,  and 
generally  does.  His  executive  council  exists  for  the 
purpose  also  of  legislation,  and  to  widen  its  influence 
the  Viceroy  adds  to  it  such  persons  as  he  thinks  best  for 
his  own  English  or  Indian  interests,  some  of  the  natives 
at  all  events.  It  looks  as  if  the  natives  might  have 
something  to  say,  if  they  said  it  pleasingly,  to  their 
masters,  -which  they  generally  do. 

It  might  be  inferred  from  the  title  that  the  Viceroy 
has  the  whole  of  the  government  of  India  in  his  hands, 
but  local  government  is  also  a factor,  and  of  these  there 
are  several,  such  as  Bombay,  Madras  and  others,  each 
of  which  has  a Governor  and  Commander-in-Chief, 
appointed  by  the  British  government,  having  a cer- 
tain independence  of  action  belonging  to  the  office 
itself.  Bengal  has  a Lieutenant-Governor  and  so  has 
the  Punjab.  Some  other  territories,  as  Burmah,  are 
ruled  by  Commissioners.  These  territories  are  sub- 
divided into  districts,  and  this  is  the  working  centre  of 
the  British  government  in  India.  The  more  impor- 
tant man  to  the  people  on  the  one  hand  and  the  gov- 
ernment on  the  other  is  the  Collector-Magistrate.  He 
may  be  the  practical  ruler  of  a million  of  peojDle,  for 
whom  he  is  responsible.  In  our  country  every  gov- 
ernmental movement  for  the  people  is  started  by  the 
people,  but  in  India  every  movement  for  or  against 
the  people  starts  with  the  government,  and  the  Col- 


144 


lector  is  the  factotum.  He  is  responsible  to  the  gov- 
ernment for  the  revenue  and  the  assessments  by 
which  it  is  attained.  But  he  is  responsible  to  both 
government  and  people  for  the  order,  health  and  peace 
of  society,  for  he  is  a Magistrate.  He  sits  in  a court, 
too,  in  petty  cases,  and  decides  whether  they  shall  go 
on  to  a higher  court.  He  is  a moving  intelligence 
office,  or  bureau,  for  the  Governor,  who  expects  to 
know  every  thing  about  his  district  whenever  he  de- 
sires and  on  every  conceivable  topic,  wise  and  unwise, 
and  he  must  supply  him  with  the  munition  and  means 
by  which  every  thing  necessary  and  unnecessary  is 
done.  Some  one  is  ready  to  ask  what  kind  of  govern- 
ment is  it.  It  is  not  British  ; it  is  not  a republic ; it 
is  not  exactly  paternal.  It  is  difficult  to  describe 
definitely.  But  it  is  nearest  a semi-civil,  semi-military 
despotism,  modified  by  a sense  of  responsibility  of  gen- 
erally just  and  good  men,  a government  where  every 
thing  is  done  for  the  people  as  a whole  which  their 
turbulent  character  will  permit,  and  nothing  by  the 
people  as  a whole,  though  enlightened  individuals 
have  great  influence  in  directing  it. 

The  people  are  generally  peaceable  and  well-behaved. 
Though  naturally  turbulent  they  do  not  often  come 
in  collision  with  the  authorities,  and  this  will  be  evi- 
dent in  the  fact  that  only  one  policeman  is  needed  to 
every  twelve  hundred  people,  while  in  Great  Britain 
it  requires  one  to  every  six  hundred  and  thirty-five. 
The  judicial  system  is  partly  according-  to  English 
law  and  partly  to  native  customs,  ingeniously  inter- 
woven by  the  late  Lord  Macaulay,  and  in  the  main 
is  equitable  and  efficient.  The  Supreme  Court  is  in 
Calcutta,  and  the  judges  are  native  and  English.  The 
military  establishment  usually  consists  of  from  sixty 


145 


thousand  to  one^  hundred  thousand  Englishmen  on  a 
peace  establishment  and  the  native  army  from  one 
hundred  and  twenty  thousand  to  two  hundred  thou- 
sand. The  support  of  this  vast  army  is  a prodigious 
problem  to  British  and  Indian  financiers,  and  the  peo- 
ple and  the  country  cannot  aftbrd  to  reduce  it,  either 
for  its  internal  or  external  safety.  It  must  rather  be 
increased  while  Russia  holds  her  menacing  attitude. 
The  revenues  of  the  country  have  been  equal  to  the 
strain  thus  far,  but  the  development  of  the  country  by 
canals  for  commerce  and  irrigation,  railways  and  other 
improvements  has  been  greatly  impeded.  The  col- 
lection of  taxes  is  not  diflScult  so  long  as  the  people 
are  able  to  pay  them.  There  is  some  difficulty  of  an 
Irish  sort  in  Bengal,  where  the  landlord  system  pre- 
vails. But  most  of  the  land  in  India  is  owned  by  the 
government,  and  the  government  rents  it  at  a fixed 
sum,  which  is  collected  as  taxes.  There  is  also  an 
income  from  the  salt  mines,  which  belong  to  the  gov- 
ernment, and  this  tax  amounts  to  about  seven  pence 
a head,  and  there  being  about  two  hundred  and  fifty 
millions  of  population  this  tax  is  considerable.  There 
is  also  something  accruing  from  the  opium  trade,  cus- 
toms, &c. 

This  will  in  some  way  prepare  the  reader  to  con- 
sider the  sources  of  danger  to  the  Empire  and  the 
exigencies  that  may  arise  in  meeting  them.  The  first 
is  in  the  fact  that  great  military  establishments  breed 
dangers  in  themselves  and  are  always  like  charred 
surfaces  ready  to  receive  the  sparks  of  insurrection. 
These  native  armies  would,  if  combined,  make  quick 
work  with  the  few  Europeans,  for  they  are  well  drilled 
and  supplied.  But  unity  is  nigh  an  impossibility 
among  the  great,  varied  and  hostile  populations  of 


146 


India.  Beside  every  man  who  has  any  property  is 
perforce,  if  not  by  love,  on  the  side  oi  the  govern- 
ment. “For,”  said  a wealthy  native,  “before  the 
English  took  possession  oi  this  Province  I should 
have  been  murdered  if  I had  been  known  to  have  one 
thousand  rupees  on  the  street.  Now  I can  carry  ten 
thousand  in  my  hands  without  even  thinking  of  dan- 
ger. I tell  you  the  wealth  of  India  is  on  the  side  of 
the  government  whether  we  like  it  or  not.”  But 
there  is  a danger  which  will  soon  become  more  appar- 
ent. The  government  is  educating  rebels  in  its  free 
school  system,  where  the  intellects  of  the  young  men 
are  educated  but  their  consciences  and  moral  sense  are 
left  heathenish.  The  young  men  of  India,  educated 
in  godless  government  schools,  are  becoming  not  only 
bright,  but  devilish ; they  will  some  day  bite  the  hand 
that  warmed  them  into  life.  The  government  will  soon, 
be  unable  to  give  them  all  positions,  then  it  may  look 
for  a harvest  of  statagems  and  strifes.  The  next  form 
of 'danger  is  foreign,  and  in  some  respects  the  least 
formidable,  because  foreign  assaults  ordinarily  unify  a 
people  who  have  either  property  or  patriotism.  . This 
danger  the  Indian  government  is  making  gigantic 
efforts  to  render  impossible. 

From  Lahore  a railway  is  completed  to  Peshawur, 
over  two  hundred  miles  away.  This  road  is  thor- 
oughly furnished  and  from  Peshawur  to  Cabool  is  a 
little  over  half  of  this  distance,  and  Candahar  is  not 
more  than  five  hundred  miles  distant,  which  would  be 
about  the  place  of  meeting  an  invading  army,  if 
such  an  army  were  permitted  to  get  into  Afghanistan 
at  all.  Forcing  these  mountain  passes  in  the  face  of  the 
defensive  resources  of  modern  warfare  is  something 
fearful  even  to  consider.  The  Indian  government  is 


147 


fortifying  every  available  point  with  the  most  effec- 
tive Aveapons  of  destruction  and  provisioning  them 
against  all  danger  of  siege.  The  Russians  must  prac- 
tically force  their  way  through,  either  as  allies  or  foes 
of  Afghanistan.  If  the  English  keep  the  sympathy  of 
Afghanistan  the  issue  will  be  decided  near  Herat; 
for  the  Afghans  are  the  fiercest  and  most  resistless 
warriors  on  the  globe,  and  nobody  knows  this  better 
than  England.  And  if  the  Russians  attempt  in- 
vasion it  will  be  either  by  Cabool  and  the  Khyber 
Pass  or  by  Candahar  and  Quetta.  To  bring  the  de- 
fensive force  of  India  on  either  strategic  point  with  the 
greatest  despatch,  for  time  will  be  every  thing,  has  taxed 
the  genius  and  resources  of  the  Indian  government, 
and  to  this  end  the  wonderful  railway  system  of  India  has 
been  planned  and  constructed  so  as  to  make  the  north- 
ern line  meet  lines  from  Bombay,  Calcutta  and  Madras. 
A line  has  also  been  completed  from  Karachi,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Indus,  to  Peshawur,  at  the  entrance  of 
the  Khyber  Pass,  so  that  English  reinforcements  by 
the  Seuz  Canal  might  land  without  disembarkation 
at  the  nearest  threatened  point.  It  is  evident  that  the 
continuance  of  India  in  the  British  Empire  depends  first 
on  the  unity  and  loyalty  of  the  people,  their  hatred  of 
Russian  invasion  and  after  rule.  Second,  on  the  hos- 
tility of  the  Afghans  to  Russia,  for  all  the  strategic 
points  of  combat  are  here,  and  on  the  help  of  the  Afghan 
army,  Avho  understand  mountain  fighting,  being  born 
bushwhackers. 

This  Afghan  help  would  be  to  either  party  worth 
more  than  one  hundred  thousand  effective  men  on  the 
plains ; so  England  will  make  prodigious  sacrifices  to 
keep  Afghanistan  her  ally.  But  if  the  last  condition 
should  fail  what  is  left?  an  open  canal  way  through 


143 


Egypt,  and  this  will  explain  all  Egyptian  policies  and 
Russian  antagonisms.  This  was  the  moving  cause 
leading  Beaconsfield  to  the  purchase  of  Cyprus,  so  that 
England  might  be  ever  able  to  protect  the  entrance 
to  the  canal.  It  is  this  necessity  that  has  brought  Eng- 
land and  France  into  constant  frictions  of  such  a nature 
that  were  it  not  that  France  is  afraid  of  Germany, 
there  would  be  war  between  her  and  England,  or  a 
divide,  or  a backdown.  This  is  also  the  reason  why 
Russia  cannot  have  an  outlet  by  the  Bosphorus,  be- 
cause she  would  dominate  the  Mediterranean  and 
England  would  not  only  be  cut  off  from  India,  but 
Malta  too  would  be  in  constant  peril,  and  her  invinci- 
ble Gibraltar  would  be  only  a relic  of  her  former 
grandeur. 

So  India  is  the  grain  of  sand  in  the  nations’  eyes,  as 
Bulgaria  and  Turkey  are  now,  and  all  the  more  so  be- 
cause of  England’s  possessions  in  the  East.  But  so 
long  as  England  can  have  free  course  through  the 
Suez  Canal,  the  route  to  which  is  guarded  by  Gibral- 
tar, IMalta  and  Cyprus,  she  can  go  through  the  Red 
Sea  to  Aden,  her  great  Eastern  coaling  station,  and 
from  thence  to  Karachi,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Indus. 
Reinforcements  can  be  in  the  defiles  of  Afghanistan 
before  Russia  can  get  her  forces  to  Herat.  Three 
weeks  will  be  sufficient  to  send  men  and  supplies  from 
England,  while  Russia,  even  with  her  railway  in  oper- 
ation, will  take  the  best  part  of  a month,  and  her 
men  and  means  will  have  to  be  brought  through 
deserts.  Supplies  also  will  have  to  be  brought  from 
Russia,  while  India  can  easily  provision  an  army  of  a 
million  of  men  as  long  as  the  exigencies  of  a war 
would  require.  Moreover,  such  supplies  had  to  be 
brought  from  Europe  water  courses  are  always  cheaper 


149 


and  surer  than  railways,  especially  over  almost  inter- 
minable deserts.  So  Russia  would  not,  under  any  con- 
ceivable circumstances,  have  an  easy  victory,  and  the 
probabilities  are  that  while  she  may  harrass  she  will 
not  soon  try  the  desperate  experiment,  while  every 
year  India  will  grow  stronger  and  her  defences  more 
impregnable. 


UMRITSUR,  THE  HOLY  CITY  OF  THE  SIKHS. 
HREE  hours  east  of  Lahore  is  one  of  the  monu- 


mental wonders  of  India — a city  and  country 
hoaj  y with  age  and  half  buried  under  tragic  histories. 
This  social  centre  of  the  Punjab  is,  for  history 
and  antiquties,  the  Palestine  of  India.  Centuries  be- 
fore Christ  its  name  was  resplendent.  It  has  been  the 
gateway  of  successive  waves  of  invasion,  and  its  popu- 
lations have  been  as  constantly  changed,  and  these 
ethnical  periods  have  made  radical  transformations 
not  only  in  politics,  but  in  religion  and  philosophies 
of  the  country  and  habits  of  the  people.  The  intel- 
lectual character  of  the  people  is  more  like  that  of  the 
English  than  in  any  other  part  of  the  Empire,  and 
this,  to  some  extent,  may  explain  the  greater  progress 
of  the  religion  and  civilization  of  England  here  than 
in  any  other  part  of  the  country,  considering  the  years 
of  effort  given.  The  Sikhs,  who  dominate  in  this  dis- 
trict, are  reformers  and  an  improvement  on  the  Hin- 
dus. Their  founder,  who  threw  over  caste,  was  an 
ascetic,  and  ordered  that  all  his  followers  should  dress 
in  dark  blue  and  always  have  iron  in  some  form 
on  their  persons,  which  their  warlike  natures  readily 
interpreted  to  mean  that  warfare  was  a religious  duty. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


150 


So  they  were  conscientious  soldiers,  and  of  them  Lord 
Lawrence  says,  “They  are  the  bravest  and  most  chiv- 
alrous race  in  India.”  The  religion  of  their  leader 
Gooroo  was  largely  hydropathic,  if  he  could  keep  his 
skin  wet,  not  clean,  he  was  in  celestial  felicity.  So 
he  was  like  a duck,  most  of  his  time  in  dirty  water. 

The  Sikhs  had  a sanguinary  chief  called  Bandu,  an 
ascetic,  which  means  in  India,  uncommonly  devilish. 
He  overran  nearly  all  of  the  Punjab,  massacr^ing  old 
and  young  in  wanton  barbarity.  But  retribution, 
too,  is  a god  in  India  not  to  be  trifled  with,  and  he  and 
his  followers  were  at  last  captured.  AYhen  retribu- 
tion comes  from  the  Mohammedans  none  will  dare 
criticise  its  effectiveness.  A portion  of  the  Sikhs  were 
executed  on  the  spot,  but  Bandu,  their  leader, 
and  seven  hundred  and  fifty  followers  were  taken  to 
Delhi  dressed  in  sheep  skins  with  the  wool  on  the  out- 
side, and  were  paraded  through  the  streets  on  camels; 
afterward  the  whole  number  were  beheaded  during 
seven  successive  days,  each  refusing  to  save  his  life  by 
renouncing  his  religion.  Their  chief  was  torn  to 
pieces  with  hot  pinchers,  but  through  all  was  sus- 
tained with  the  thought  that  he  had  been  raised  up  to 
resist  the  corruptions  of  the  times.- 

Umritsur  is  the  Jerusalem  of  the  Punjab.  It  is  the 
brain  centre,  and  so  far  as  they  have  any  religion 
the  religious  centre  of  all  thought,  tradition,  history, 
hopes  and  activities.  In  it  is  held  a^  religious  fair 
every  day  in  the  year.  The  most  populous  city  in  the 
Punjab,  numbering  151,896,  it  is  also  the  commer- 
cial capital;  the  best  products  of  the  country  are  gath- 
ered and  manufactured  here;  its  exquisite  fabrics 
are  sought  and  prized  the  world  over.  Here  are 
wrought  those  priceless  shawls  of  Cashmere,  of  which 


151 


tribute  is  paid  yearly  to  Her  Majesty,  who  deems  them 
worthy  to  be  the  gifts  of  royal  favor.  In  the  little 
shops  in  the  narrow  streets  the  visitor  sees  the  work- 
men  busy  with  embroidery  upon  the  incomparable 
scarlet  chudda,  or  fitting  the  sections  of  loom  work 
into  designs  of  wondrous  beauty. 

On  the  way  to  Umritsur  a good  providence  brought 
us  into  the  companionship  of  the  Rev.  Dr.  Clark,  who 
holds  to  the  Church  Missionary  Society  the  same 
relation  that  the  Revs.  Mr.  Newton  and  Forman  hold 
to  the  Presbyterian  Board’s  missions  in  Lahore.  He 
is  a glorious  missionaiy  character,  in  whose  heart  the 
salvation  of  the  heathen  holds  a higher  place  than 
any  ecclesiastical  establishment.  He  is  an  honored 
clergyman  in  connection  wdth  the  Church  of  England; 
but  a more  honored  minister  of  Christ,  whose  seal  of 
acceptance  is  seen  in  his  work.  He  has  lived  and^ 
wrought  beside  and  with  the  Presbyterian  mission- 
aries in  cordial  fellowship  at  Lahore  and  other  sta- 
tions, and  has  penned  the  best  tribute  to  their  faith- 
fulness and  unselfishness  in  their  life-work  in  India. 
This  Nestor  tendered  us  Christian  hospitalities  and 
conducted  us  through  the  schools  and  orphanages  for 
boys  and  girls  in  Umritsur.  He  gave  testimony  to 
the  value  of  these  schools  as  agencies  not  only  to  en- 
lighten the  heathen  mind,  but  in  saving  souls.  Out  of 
the  boys’  school  twenty-five  or  thirty  had  made  con- 
fession of  faith,  and  of  these  ten  had  become  preachers 
or  teachers  of  Christianity.  In  this  connection  he 
gave  this  remarkable  and  encouraging  testimony : 

“There  is  no  one  department  of  missionary  work  in 
a heathen  land  of  which  it  may  be  said  that  it  alone 
is  working  in  the  right  way  to  evangelize  a heathen 
country,  and  that  all  other  ways  are  wrong.  The 


right  Tvay  to  propagate  Christianity  is  to  preach  or 
teach  Christ  crucified;  and  wherever  this  is  done  the 
preaching  of  the  Cross  is  eflhctual  to  the  conversion 
of  people  in  all  circumstances.  In  India  we  find  suc- 
cess in  every  department  of  missionary  work  when  it 
is  carried  on  with  faith  and  prayer;  whether  it  be  in 
the  pulpit,  or  the  bazaar,  or  the  school;  whether  the 
, special  sphere  of  labor  be  literary,  or  medical,  or  pas- 
toral, or  evangelistic,  or  educational;  wherever  the 
workers  are  faithful  and  the  work  is  true  we  m.eet 
with  the  divine  blessing.” 

There  is  an  orphan’s  school  for  girls  with  a capacity 
for  sixty,  to  prepare  them  to  be  wives  of  Christian 
men,  who,  by  their  profession  of  Christianity,  are 
either  boycotted  or  are  drawn  away  by  the  heathen- 
ism of  their  wdves.  The  inmates  are  of  the  poorer 
classes,  and  their  education  is  in  the  vernacular. 
They  cook  their  own  food,  sew,  spin,  and  do  whatever 
else  is  required  in  the  sphere  of  their  probable  future 
lives.  Their  dining-room  is  a verandah,  where,  to 
Americans,  it  is  strange  to  see  them  sitting  on  the 
ground  pushing  their  food  into  the  red  openings  in 
their  dark  faces  with  their  fingers,  but  this  is  the  way 
they  do  it  in  this  beautiful  land.  They  are  happy, 
singing  all  the  ‘ day  while  working  or  playing.  One 
is  confounded  and  ashamed  that  it  is  possible  to  be 
happy  on  so  little.  This  institution  is  entirely  sup- 
ported by  voluntary  contributions  of  Europeans  and 
natives. 

Another  school  greatly  interested  us  called  the 
Alexandra  Girls’  School,  a long  red  brick  building, 
but  every  part  faultlessly  clean,  plainly  furnished, 
wdth  little  more  than  bedsteads,  called  charpoys,  and 
only  a piece  of  matting  for  the  bed  and  a cover.  This 


153 


■was  about  all  that  could  be  seen,  but  this  to  them  is 
luxury,  even*  to  the  higher  classes.  The  parents  of 
these  high  class  girls  pay  about  one-half  the  expenses 
of  the  school. 

There  are  Zenana  schools  accomplishing  a great  work 
about  Umritsur ; some  of'them  are  medical,  and  so  have 
access  to  souls  through  the  ills  of  humanity.  One 
thousand  visits  were  paid  by  Miss  Hubells,  medical 
missionary,  to  the  homes  of  the  people,  and  more  than 
three  thousand  out-patients  received  relief.  These 
are  but  glints  of  heavenly  light  on  this  dark  land. 
Time  and  space  will  allow  no  full  description,  the 
purpose  is  to  fairly  sample  the  lot  of  this,  the  greatest 
Missionary  Society  for  its  years  in  India.  There  is  a 
work  carried  on  by  men  and  w^omen  of  high  estate 
without  cost  to  the  Societies.  There  is  an  order  of 
“honorary  workers,”  in  which  are  some  of  the  wealthy 
and  distinguished  women  of  Great  Britain,  who  have 
renounced  the  comforts  of  happy  homes  for  Christ’s 
sake  and  the  salvation  of  the  neglected  and  oppressed. 
Among  the  number  of  the  illustrious  w’orkers  is  Miss 
Tucker,  known  under  the  r)om  de  plume  “ A.  L.  O.  E.,’^ 
(A  Lady  of  Old  England,)  who  came  to  India  to  obtain 
material  for  her  waitings,  and  -while  there  became  so 
enchanted  with  the  country  and  so  absorbed  in  the  lives 
and  souls  of  the  people  that  she  has  devoted  her  life  to 
them  since,  and  though  nearly  fifty  years  old  has  added 
more  than  a decade  to  her  illustrious  literary  life,  one 
more  glorious  in  two  worlds  with  rew’ards  to  her  sac- 
rifice. She  is  often  the  only  European  in  Batala,  a 
city  of  thousands.  She  presides  like  a heaven-born 
genius  over  her  school  of  boys,  and  is  adored  as  if  she 
had  come  down  on  a chariot  of  glory  out  of  the  clouds. 
Her  life  magnifies  itself  in  all  the  elements  of 


154 


greatness  and  goodness  as  she  moves  the  queen  of  her 
own  love-conquered  empire,  more  supreme  in  her 
sovereignty  than  the  great  Queen  Victoria,  for  her 
sovereignty  was  not  conquered  by  war,  but  by  doing 
good,  in  daily  helpfulness,  to  a wretched  people.  She 
is  described  in  her  daily  life  by  a venerable  and  gifted 
missionary  thus: 

“To  see  her,  indeed,  among  the  boys;  now  by  the 
sick-bed  of  an  invalid,  now  leading  the  singing  at  the 
daily  worship  in  ,the  little  chapel,  now  acting  as 
private  tutor  to  a candidate  for  the  Entrance  Exam- 
ination; now  setting  her  own  words  to  stirring  tunes, 
as  ‘ Batala  Songs,’  to  be  sung  in  school  boy  chorus; 
sharing  the  meals,  the  interests,  the  joys  and  sorrows 
of  each  and  all,  and  withal  insensibly  forming  and 
elevating  their  character,  raising  the  tone  and  taste 
of  the  boyish  society,  as  only  the  subtle  influence  of  a 
Chrikian  lady  can  do ; and  to  older  and  younger  the 
object  of  a warm  personal  affection  and  a chivalrous 
deference — to  see  this  is,  indeed,  to  realize,  as  it  has 
probably  seldom  been  realized,  Charles  Kingsley’s 
beautiful  conception  of  the  Fairy  Do-as-you-would-be- 
done-by  among  the  Waterbabies.  And  in  this  case 
the  W aterbabies  are  swept  together  from  a range  wide 
enough  to  satisfy  even  Kingsley’s  world-wide  sym- 
pathies ; the  oldest  boy  in  the  school  is  an  Abyssinian 
lad,  picked  up  during  the  war  as  an  orphan  baby,  to 
be  made  the  soldiers’  pet,  and  then  to  find  a home  at 
Batala.  Of  the  remaining  forty  boys,  of  ages  rang- 
ing from  five  to  eighteen,  six  are  Afghans,  two  or 
three  are  from  Calcutta,  two  from  Lucknow,  the  re- 
mainder mostly  from  one  or  other  of  the  races  and 
tongues  found  in  the  Punjab.” 

This  band  of  sacrificial  spirits,  known  as  “honorary 
workers,”  support  themselves — a glorious  sisterhood 


with  a mission  and  commission  to  the  lost  ones  of  their 
own  sex.  This  is  an  outlet  to  the  multitudes  of  gen- 
tle-women of  England  who  may  not  have  been  called 
to  motherhood  or  who  may  have  finished  their  mission 
and  are  childless,  who  are  cut  off  by  necessities  of  their 
station  from  doing  w^hat  their  hearts  long  for.  These 
find  success  and  somfort  in  helping  the  wretchedness 
of'^down-trodden  -women  in  India.  AYe  hope  a multi- 
tude of  wealthy  and  refined  women  will  turn  to  mis- 
sion work,  who  can  stoop  to  heathen  need  without 
degradation  and  lift  them  up  all  the  higher  and  better 
because  they  are  so  high  themselves.  The  poor  can- 
not save  themselves,  the  race  can  only  be  lifted  by 
those  who  can  reach  down  after  it.  There  are  also 
native  women  of  noble  birth,  surrounded  by  wealth 
and  influence,  doing  the  same  service.  One  of  these 
has  se*nt  an  appeal  to  the  great  Christian  sisterhood 
in  England  in  poetry,  which  would  be  a gem  in  any 
age  or  land.  We  know  our  readers  will  agree  with 
us  as  to  the  quality  of  genius  and  goodness  that  in- 
spired it,  and  perhaps  catch  its  inspiration  to  lead  to 
imitation; 

“Listen,  listen,  English  Sisters, 

Hear  an  Indian  Sister’s  plea. 

Grievous  wails,  dark  ills  revealing. 

Depths  of  human  woe  unsealing. 

Born  across  the  deep  blue  sea! 

‘We' are  dying  day  by  day. 

With  no  bright,  no  cheering  ray; 

Nought  to  lighten  up  our  gloom — 

Cruel,  cruel  is  our  doom.  ’ 

“Listen,  listen,  Christian  Sisters,  ^ 

Show  ye  have  a Christ-like  heart; 

Hear  us  sadly,  sadly  moaning, 

’Neath  our  load  of  sorrow  groaning, 


156 


Writhing  ’neath  its  bitter  smart; 
With  no  hope  of  rest  abov^, 
Knowing  not  a Father’s  love; 

Your  true  sympathy  we  crave, 

You  can  help  us,  you  can  save. 

“Listen,  listen,  Christian  Sisters; 
Hark!  they  call,  and  call  again; 
Can  ye  pass  them  by,  unheeding. 

All  their  eager,  earnest  pleading? 

Hear  ye  not  their  plaintive  strain. 
Let  your  tender  hearts  be  moved. 
Let  your  love  to  Christ  be  proved-* 
Not  by  idle  tears  alone. 

But  by  noble  actions  shown. 

“This  is  no  romantic  story, 

Not  an  idle,  empty  tale; 

Not  a vain,  far-fetched  ideal: 

No,  your  Sisters  woes  are  real. 

Let  their  pleading  tones  prevail, 
As  ye  prize  a Father’s  love. 

As  ye  hope  for  rest  above, 

As  your  sins  are  all  forgiven. 

As  ye  have  a home  in  heaven. 

“ Rise,  and  take  the  Gospel  message, 
Bear  its  tidings  far  away; 

Far  away  to  India’s  daughters: 

Tell  them  of  the  living  waters. 
Flowing,  flowing,  day  by  day. 

That  they  too  may  drink  and  live. 
Freely  have  ye,  freely  give. 

Go  disperse  the  shades  of  night. 

With  the  glorious  Gospel  light. 

“Many  jewels,  rare  and  precious, 

If  ye  sought  them,  ye  should  find, 
Deep  in  heathen  darkness  hidden, 

Ye  are  by  the  Master  bidden. 

If  ye  know  that  Master’s  mind. 


157 


Bidden,  did  I sav?  Ah  no! 

Without  bidding  ye  will  go, 

Forth  to  seek  the  lone  and  lost; 

Rise  and  go,  whatever  it  cost! 

“Would  ye  miss  His  welcome  greeting, 

When  He  comes  in  glory  down? 

Rather  would  ye  hear  Him  saying, 

As  before  Him  ye  are  laying. 

Your  bright  trophies  for  His  crown, 

‘I  accept  your  gathered  spoil, 

I have  seen  your  earnest  toil; 

Faithful  ones,  well  done!  well  done! 

Ye  shall  shine  forth  as  the  sun!’  ” 

There  is  in  Umritsur,  among  the  many  hopeful  and 
useful  agencies  for  saving  the  bodies  and  souls  of  men, 
one  that  attracted  special  attention  and  enthusiasm, 
not  only  for  its  Own  merits,  but  from  the  earnestness, 
devotion  and  success  of  the  young  man  who  has  the 
care  of  it.  This  hospital  is  in  charge  of  Dr.  Martin 
Clark,  a graduate  of  the  University  of  Edinburgh,  but 
a native  of  India,  a medical  missionary  of  the  Church 
Missionary  Society.  In  the  medical  work  among 
heathen  is  realized  the  sublime  conception  of  Living- 
stone, so  Christlike  in  its  utterance: — “God  had  but 
one  Son  and  he  was  a medical  missionary;  a poor  imi- 
tation of  him  I am,  or  wish  to  be.”  The  great  lever- 
age so  lately  added  to  the  soul-saving  force  is  the  rais- 
ing of  humanity  by  its  own  weaknesses,  the  lifting  of  it 
into  life  eternal  by  its  own  sores,  its  helplessness  produc- 
ing the  inclination,  which  is  crowned  by  divine  power. 
The  medical  profession  in  its  legitimate  work  is  great 
anywhere,  but  if  it  have  to  do  with  only  one-half  of  man’s 
dual  nature  it  is  only  a specialist  and  loses  the  co- 
operation and  blessings,  after  cure,  of  one-half  the  life. 
The  medical  missionary  heals  both  halves  of  life  and 


158 


has  a higher  and  nobler  plane  of  thinking  and  acting,, 
of  diagnosing  and  curing.  His  work  rises  above  that 
of  the  ordinary  professional,  as  the  soul  is  more  than 
its  temporary  casket — the  body.  The  Lord  was  the 
great  Healer  who  commands  both  admiration 
and  imitation,  who  not  only  went  about  doing  good, 
healing  men’s  diseases,  but  out  of  his  victory  over 
organized  matter  breathing  into  them  spiritual  life  in 
the  formula,  “ Rise  up,  thy  sins  are  forgiven  thee,” 
the  anastasis  which  freedom  from  sin  gives.  This 
young  medical  missionary  has  summed  up  the  purpose, 
spirit  and  work  of  a medical  missionary  in  the  follow- 
ing words : 

“A  medical  mission  is  not  an  institution  in  which 
in  return  for  medicines  people  are  expected  to  listen 
to  preaching,  and  be  instructed  in  what  they  consider  ^ 
an  alien  faith ; neither  is  it  an  institution  in  which 
works  of  mere  benevolence  and  philanthropy  are  done, 
and  the  gospel  commended  by  a demonstration  of  its 
practical  benefits.  It  is  rather  a work  in  which  the 
noblest  of  sciences,  in  its  highest  developments,  is 
brought  to  bear  on  the  greatest  of  all  objects,  the  sal- 
vation of  the  soul.  The  spiritual  and  medical  works 
cannot  be  separated ; neither  can  they  be  subordinated 
the  one  to  the  other.  They  must  be  co-ordinated  so  as 
to  work  harmoniously  for  the  attainment  of  the  one 
object  for  which  all  missions  exist.” 

In  this  hospital  fifty-four  thousand  patients  were 
treated  last  year;  fourteen  thousand  surgical  opera- 
tions were  performed  with  only  one  death.  As  to  fur- 
nishings, our  Eastern  hospital  is  bare  enough ; it  is 
really  only  a shelter.  The  sick  people  usually  bring 
their  own  beds,  do  their  own  cooking  and  washing 
when  able;  or  some  relative  comes,  or  all  the  family. 


159 


and  huddle  in  some  corner  of  the  premises  or  on  the 
streets.  The  services  rendered  are  medicinal,  surgi- 
cal and  spiritual.  The  Bible  reader  is  on  hand  to- 
read  the  Scriptures,  or  exhort,  or  teach  the  Catechism, 
While  the  patients  who  come  to  the  dispensaries  are 
waiting  for  their  turn  prayers  are  offered  for  those  be- 
ing operated  upon.  Personal  conversations  are  held 
on  the  destiny  of  the  soul  for  a better  life,  explanations? 
and  applications  of  the  Scriptures  are  made,  all  watch 
to  give  the  word  in  season  to  him  that  is  weary.  Many 
of  the  patients  may  live  hundreds  of  miles  away,  and 
w'hen  cured  go  home  to  tell,  at  least,  the  wonderful 
things  done  and  said  and  heard  from  the  missionary 
healers.  Thus  the  gospel  is  published  and  its  blessed 
truths  diffused.  There  was  something  peculiarly  piti- 
ful in  the  appearance  of  the  sufferers  in  this  strange 
land — strange  faces,  strange  ideas  and  strange  ways. 
They  all  seemed  sad,  as  if  hope  had  been  bleached  out 
of  them.  The  Doctor  in  his  round  would  rally  them, 
and  sometimes  tickle  them  under  the  chin,  or  stroke 
their  weary  brows,  and  their  faces  would  relax  from 
that  pensiveness,  which  was  to  us  so  peculiarly  national. 
They  are  a people  by  nature  gentle  and  winsome  even  in 
their  almost  nakedness,  which  would  be  offensive  and 
vulgar  in  any  other  nationality. 

Blood-thirstiness  comes  on  this  people  as  an  epi- 
demic in  which  they  seem  to  lose  all  control,  but  we 
do  not  believe  that  it  is  to  any  great  degree  their  nor- 
mal disposition.  They  look  to  us  like  a people  of 
great  possibilities,  which  will  be  reached  only  through 
centuries  of  discipline,  in  which  the  fetters  of  the  past 
religion,  philosophies,  customs  and  caste,  wdll  have  to 
be  entirely  broken.  They  must  be,  in  a sense,  reborn 
Hindus,  not  Europeans  reborn  into  a life  from  above,  - 


160 


but  peculiar,  their  own  in  its  development.  So  all  for- 
eigners and  the  English  government,  also,  are  only 
missionaries  leading  to  this  Apocalypse  of  their  coming 
glory.  If  they  shall  become  Christians  they  will  ever 
cling  to  their  faith  and  honor  it  and  raise  their  nation 
to  the  highest  level  by  it. 

One  of  the  tokens  of  the  triumph  of  the  gospel 
floats  over  this  medical  institution  in  the  form  of  a 
banner  with  the  device  of  the  all-conquering  cross. 
Shaumien,  once  a priest  in  the  Golden  Temple,  was 
one  of  the  first  converts  to  Christianity  in  Umritsur, 
and  was  many  years  a faithful  witness  for  Christ. 
Every  god  in  India  has  a flag,  and  he  was  oppressed 
that  there  was  no  flag  for  Jesus.  It  was  a grief  all 
his  life,  and  when  dying  he  left  all  his  property  to 
the  mission,  with  directions  that  a flag  should  forever 
wave  to  the  honor  of  Him  who  died  on  Calvary  and 
rose  again.  So  out  of  this  money  this  hospital  was 
built,  and  is  called  the  Hospital  of  the  Flag  of  Jesus, 
on  which  this  banner  moves  alike  in  the  zephyr  and 
the  storm. 


THE  GOLDEN  TEMPLE  AT  U3TEITSUE. 
HRISTIANS  are  not  the  only  missionaries  in 


Umritsur.  The  heathen  are  conscientious  and 


even  aggressive.  The  Christian  religion  is  stirring 
them  up.  They  feel  that  their  hold  is  being  broken  ; 
so  all  along  the  narrow  streets  as  the  multitudes  were 
returning 'from  their  duties  and  labors  the  priests  were 
holding  street  meetings  and  haranguing  the  crowds  to 
faithfulness  to  their  ancestral  beliefs.  Street  preach- 
ing is  carried  on  by  both  Christian  and  heathen  some- 


CHAPTER  XV. 


161 


times  at  opposite  corners.  Another  street  sight  illus- 
trative of  the  practical  belief  in  the  transmigration  of 
the  soul  was  a gathering  of  a multitude  of  all  kinds  of 
dogs.  As  Goldsmith  says: — “There  were  mongrel, 
puppy,  whelp  and  hound,  and  curs  of  low  degree.” 
This  canine  congregation  was  remarkable.  There  were 
dogs  with  ears  erect  and  dogs  with  flapping  ears, 
“yaller  dogs”  and  briudle-haired,  black  and  white, 
and  dogs  shaded  off  to  every  degree  of  color ; poodles 
and  “fistes,”  mastiffs  and  mongrel,  wolves  scarred  and 
marred,  with  tails  and  tailless,  howling,  barking,  bay- 
ing, whining,  and  biting  each  other,  and  yelping  from 
their  wounds.  These  were  all  gathered  in  the  street 
by  a shop  w^here  they  and  their  ancestors  had  come 
for  a quarter  century  to  get  their  food  without  re- 
proach or  price  from  this  baker,  and  the  secret  of  his 
benevolence  was  that  a Brahmin  priest  had  told  him 
that  his  father’s  soul  had  gone  into  a dog  and  he  w^as 
feeding  all  available  dogs  to  assure  himself  and  ‘ all 
good  Brahmins  that  his  defunct  parent  was  w'ell  fed 
and  in  a good  growing  condition.  If  that  were  filial 
duty  in  our  country  it  is  to  be  feared  that  the  stomachs 
of  many  of  our  male  ancestors  w^ould  be  sadly  puck- 
ered or  collapsed  most  of  the  time. 

The  most  remarkable  object  in  this  great  and 
wealthy  city  is  the  Golden  Temple  and  the 
Lake  of  Immortality,  which  surrounds  it.  Um- 
ritsur  is  derived  from  Amritsa  Sacas,  “the  Pool 
of  Immortality,”  a high  sounding  name  given  by 
Rane  Das  to  the  original  tank,  whose  waters  he 
said  were  sufficient  to  wash  away  the  blackest  sin 
and  give  a religious  dabbler  right  and  title  to  heaven 
The  people  and  their  chieftains  were  bellicose  and 
inured  to  the  necessitudes  of  warfare.  They  hated 


162 


the  caste  of  their  Southern  countrymen  and  their  pride 
of  caste  as  bitterly  as  the  Mohammedans.  The  grand- 
father of  Rungeet  Singh  was  one  of  these  chieftains 
who  were  Quats  before  they  became  Sikhs,  a lower 
caste  than  the  Rajpoots.  The  temple  is  said  to  be  the 
work  of  the  famous  Shah  Jehan  who  will  appear  the 
central  figure  in  Delhi  and  Agra.  This  beautiful 
creation  forces  its  perfection  on  the  admiration  of 
the  beholder — “ far  off  its  presence  shines.”  It  looks 
like  a mount  of  glistening  gold  coming  up  out  of  a 
lake  all  golden  from  its  reflections.  Its  outlines  may 
be  seen  in  the  clouds,  the  floating  lakes  above  and  in 
its  watery  seat  below.  But  we  shall  be  obliged  to  go 
more  into  detail  and  describe  it  minutely  to  give 
any  thing  but  the  most  general  impression  of  its  gran- 
deur. Its  surroundings  must  first  be  seen  before  the 
central  object  takes  its  proportions  or  reveals  its  beauty. 
There  must  be  four  or  five  acres  in  .the  pool,  perhaps 
more,  as  there  was  no  way  of  measuring  it,  and  no  re- 
liance can  be  placed  on  native  testimony,  for  it  is  a 
part  of  their  religion  to  magnify  every  thing  that 
belongs  to  them. 

Around  this  lake  on  every  side  was  a wide  pavement 
of  variegated  marbles,  of  priceless  quality  and  color, 
set  in  diamond  squares.  This  pavement  breaks  down 
towards  the  lake  by  marble  steps.  At  the  first  flight 
is  a vestibule  where  all  visitors  must  change  their  shoes 
for  sandals.  The  first  objects  visible  were  four  men 
naked  to  the  waist  in  this  pool,  into  which  all  filth  ran, 
for  it  is  a basin  that  catches  all  that  flows,  and  these 
devotees  were  drinking  the  waters,  believing  that 
draughts  of  immortality  were  going  down  their  throats 
twenty  thousands  of  them  will  come  and  wash  in  it 
every  day.  It  has  taken  not  a few  out  of  mortality. 


163 


for  it  is  full  of  cholera ; whether  it  stranded  them  on 
the  shores  of  immortality  is  a question  which  might  be 
in  dispute.  In- front  of  the  temple  the  pavement  widens 
into  a piazza  on  which  were  crowds  worshipping, 
trafficking,  talking  in  groups,  according  to  opportunity 
or  affinities.  There  was  at  one  spot  -a  greasy  fakir 
with  his  long  hair  braided,  his  coarse  appearance  indi- 
cating a cross  between  the  devil  and  the  brute,  whose 
long  crab-like  fingers  waited  to  clutch  the  alms  that 
might  come  to  him. 

On  an  overhanging  balcony  of  marble  was  a man 
preaching  to  about  a dozen  followers  with  as  much 
spiritual  zeal  as_  an  auctioneer  selling  other  people’s 
goods.  In  this  building  is  the  receptacle  for  the  great 
Sikh  “ Book,”  which  lies  during  the  day  on  a costly 
cushion  in  the  Golden  Temple,  the  object  of  worship, 
and  which  at  night  is  brought  out  and  put  in  his  dor- 
mitory, which  ceremony  is  called  “ putting  the  Book 
to  sleep.”  On  this  piazza  were  stands  consisting  of 
white  sheets  spread  on  the  pavement  for  the  sale  of 
flowers  which  enter  into  the  offering  services  ; one  was 
for  the  sale  of  marigolds  in  heaps,  golden  heaps 
amounting  to  bushels.  Near  was  a group  of  a dozen 
or  more  listening  to  an  exposition  or  running  comment 
from  some  old  manuscripts  which  had  the  appearance 
of  the  sermons  of  some  preachers  dried  in  the  smoke 
of  the  pipes  and  segars  of  their  authors ; having  the 
odor  of  any  thing  but  sanctity,  rather  of  their  daily 
burnt  offerings. 

As  we  passed  by.  Dr.  Clark,  Jr.,  who  seemed  to  know 
all  the  heathen  dignitaries  of  the  place,  gave  the  man 
in  fervor  over  his  dried  up  provender  a significant  look, 
which  was  returned  as  if  being  wholly  understood, 
which  the  doctor  reported  as  being  the  admission  of 


164 


the  expounder  that  he  did  not  believe  what  he  was 
saying  and  that  he  did  not  try  to  disguise  the  fraud  to 
a foreigner.  As  the  journey  was  first  made  around 
the  Lake  of  Immortality  on  its  beautiful  pavement 
surrounded  by  arcaded  buildings,  with  balconies  over- 
looking, extending  three  and  four  stories,  we 
hear  a strange  hum-drum  kind  of  music  from  or- 
chestras of  stringed  instruments,  no  doubt  a part  of 
the  complicated  temple  performances.  Down  at  the 
very  edge  of  the  pool  were  women  lighting  little  can- 
dles and  starting  them  adrift  in  paper  boats — a scene 
which  Mrs.  Browning  has  so  beautifully  described 
in  poetry.  At  intervals  all  along  the  way  were  little 
shrines  with  images.  On  one  side  was  a company  of 
men  hurrying  through  their  devotions,  while  the 
hashish  was  being  prepared  for  a “big  drunk.”  The 
odors  of  the  drug  were  perceptible  all  about.  The 
scene  suggested  what  had  been  told  us  in  other  years 
of  hard-shelled  Baptists  in  the  Southern  States,  who 
were  reported  as  pro\dding  whiskey  when  they  had 
their  convocations,  as  an  essential  in  every  pious  and 
well-regulated  family  in  the  long  ago.  When  the  time 
came  for  breakfast,  and  the  family  and  ministerial 
brethren  were  seated,  the  head  of  the  house  laid  the 
Bible  on  the  table  and  put  the  bottle  hard  by,  saying,  * 
“ Come  and  have  prayers  and  then  we  will  have  some- 
thing better.”  These  are  but  incidents  of  daily  occur- 
rence on  this  pavement ; sometimes  scenes  occur  far 
more  tragic. 

The  temple  is  situated  in  the  centre  of  the  Pool  of 
Immortality  and  is  reached  by  a stone  causeway. 
At  the  entrance  opening  off  the  piazza  is  a lofty 
gateway,  magnificent  beyond  description.  The  gates 
are  of  wood  on  one  side,  overlaid  with  silver  re- 


165 


pousse  work,  exceedingly  costly  and  exquisite  in  de- 
sign and  finish.  The  other  side  of  the  doors  was  of 
carvings  in  sandal  wood,  such  as  can  be  seen  in  no 
other  country  and  almost  matchless  even  for  India, 
where  workmanship  is  generally  equal  to  the  demands 
of  creative  genius.  After  the  gates  are  passed  there 
are  about  two  hundred  yards  of  causeway,  paved  in 
variegated  marble,  the  balustrades  on  each  of  ex- 
quisite marble  fret  work,  which  look  like  a fabric 
of  lace,  on  which  are  caps  and  balustrades  wrought 
in  marble  and  polished  like  mirrors. 

This  causeway  is  crowded  all  day  with  people 
of  every  nationality.  Jt  is  a strange,  bewildering  scene 
— people  in  all  the  costumes  of  the  world  and  no  cos- 
tumes, looking  like  a moving  garden  of  every  kind 
of  grave  and  Oriental  flowers.  Fakirs  were  therein 
their  salmon  colored  garments,  with  hollow  cheeks, 
unkempt  beard  and  long  tangled  hair,  the  incarnation 
of  that  hypocrisy  which  is  their  life-long  profession ; 
with  fierce  intolerant  eyes,  having  avarice  marked  in 
their  whole  expression  and  love  of  adulation  and  of  ador- 
ation ; and  there  too  were  the  multitudes  as  ready  to  give 
as  they  were  to  demand  it.  There  were  the  tribes  with 
their  marked  differences  in  India,  itself  a world  in 
number  and  variety.  There  were  the  priests  of  the 
temple  coming  and  going,  and  at  times  Europeans 
mixing  with  the  motley  crowds,  whose  appearance 
called  forth  only  contempt  and  curiosity.  This  was  a 
scene  only  once  witnessed,  and  of  which  even  the 
vague  impressions  can  never  be  forgotten. 

The  building  is  of  that  general  kind  which  marked  its 
century  as  the  time  of  the  triumph  of  architectural  art  in 
India,  whose  solitary  patron  was  Shah  Jehan,  though 
the  genius  who  brought  it  to  its  perfection  is  lost  as 


166 


light  goes  out  in  darkness.  It  is  square,  with  domes 
rising  in  the  centre,  the  top  resting  on  arches,  with 
domes  on  the  main  corners,  and  upon  the  battlements 
small  ornamental  domes  of  the  same  general  pattern 
and  finish.  Around  the  temple  is  a pavement  rising 
out  of  the  lake,  and  this  is  wide  enough  for  the  vast 
crowds  to  move  about  on  great  occasions.  Half  way- 
up  the  sides  it  is  covered  with  pure  marble  inlaid  with 
mosaics  of  precious  stones  in  designs  of  flowers  and 
fruits  of  the  varieties  of  these  matchless  tropics; 
on  one  panel  is  inlaid  in  precious  stones  a melon 
halved,  looking  as  if  its  juices  were  starting  from  its 
sundered  parts,  and  in  one  half  the  knife  is  repre- 
sented as  sticking.  Beside  the  great  doors  an  elephant 
is  set  in  mosaics.  The  floors  were  not  less  costly, 
nor  less  surprising  in  design  and  workmanship.  All 
the  multitudinous  domes  and  battlements  and  entab- 
latures are  covered  with  copper  polished  and  gilded, 
so  that  the  effect  is  of  a vast  and  varied  temple  cov- 
ered with  purest  gold,  which  has  defied  the  centuries 
of  time  even  to  tarnish  it.  It  was  in  the  last  hours  of 
sunlight  that  this  beautiful  creation  was  surveyed. 
The  polished  gilt  surfaces  sent  the  rays  of  the  part- 
ing sunlight  flashing  out  over  the  buildings  of  the 
city  and  through  the  high  trees,  like  rainbow  lights 
when  the  golden  rays  of  the  sun  have  triumphed  over 
the  storm.  The  temple  abides  in  the  golden  halo  of 
its  own,  formed  in  cloudless  skies ; sometimes  the  sky 
is  red  and  then  tinges  of  these  golden  reflections  take 
its  hues  and  the  effect  is  changed  from  yellow  to  the 
color  of  copper  alloyed  with  gold. 

We  were  not  ^^ermitted  to  cross  the  sacred  threshold, 
but  viewed  the  scene  in  the  interior  from  a side  door 
which  stood  open.  The  main  audience-room  of  the 


167 


\ 

temple  was  lofty,  the  ceiling  and  sides  being  elabor- 
ately gilded  and  decorated.  Upon  a heap  of  silken 
cushions,  gorgeous  in  gold  embroidery,  lay  “the 
Book,”  the  object  of  Sikh  adoration,  and  behind  it 
sat  a priest,  one  of  the  three  hundred  who  constantly 
minister  in  this  temple.  Before  the  Book  a white 
sheet  was  spread  to  receive  the  offerings  of  the  wor- 
shippers, and  the  priests  complain  bitterly  that  owing 
to  the  influence  of  the  missionaries  these  offerings, 
which  were  once  rupees,  are  now  reduced  to  shells. 

, The  religious  service  consisted  of  shrill  music  made  by 
a group  of  musicians  squatting  upon  the  floor,  w'ho 
accompanied  their  atrocious  vocal  discords  with  the 
confusion  of  inharmonious  stringed  instruments.  The 
worshippers  formed  a procession  around  the  sheet, 
going  around  and  around,  mothers  carrying  or  drag" 
ging  their  naked  children,  gray  old  men  and  a very 
few  men  of  middle  age. 

Wearying  of  the  monotony  of  this  scene  and  willing 
to  rest  our  ears,  w’e  ascended  the  stairs  in  the  rear 
and  entered  a room  under  the  main  dome  Whose 
vaulted  ceiling  was  set  with  mother-of-pearl,  and  with 
mirrors  in  geometrical  designs.  The  oriel  window  is 
not  a modern  idea  or  contrivance,  but  belongs  especi- 
ally to  the  sunny  side  of  the  world — it  is  an  importa- 
tion in  Europe  and  America.  Its  original  home  was 
in  India,  so  that  noses  on  faces  are  no  more  indicative 
of  race  than  this  beautiful  pendant  of  the  architecture 
of  this  land  of  undimmed  sunshine  and  flowers.  The 
wood  carving  on  an  ordinary  oriel  window  in  India 
would,  in  our  country,  cost  more  than  the  most  elabor- 
ate marble  and  stone  structures  of  this  kind.  They 
are  usually  built  of  sandal  wood,  when  new  highly 
polished,  and  of  a cinnamon  color;  but  as  India  de- 


168 


spises  paint  as  an  unworthy  sham  such  works  are  left 
to  the  defacements  of  time  without  protection,  hence 
they  all  look  old,  weather-stained  and  dusty,  but  are 
beautiful  in  their  place,  in  the  land  of  their  birth,  for 
all  this.  They  seem  peculiarly  at  home  among  the 
airy  arches  of  Indian  architecture,  and  being  one 
of  the  elements  of  essential  beauty  they  cling  to  its 
very  temples.  So  at  Umritsur  they  are  found 
at  every  angle  or  break  and  at  irregular  intervals 
on  the  facade,  and  sometimes  these  breaks  seem 
to  have  been  made  only  for  the  intioduction  of 
this  beautiful  device.  As  we  reluctantly  departed 
the  last  rays  of  the  declining  sun  lay  upon  the 
sacred  pool  and  the  glorious  temple  of  gold,  rising 
like  a dream,  changing  the  very  waters  into  its  own 
color.  Its  halo  is  caught  in  reflections  from  the  domes 
of  lesser  temples  and  its  glory  lies  aslant  the  plains 
beyond.  This  scene  is  a suggestion  only  of  the  de- 
scription of  Jerusalem  the  Golden  in  the  poetry  of 
inspiration. 

Were  it  not  that  material  grandeur  and  moral 
beauty  never  dwell  together  in  this  life,  the  Temple  of 
Umritsur  might  All  the  imagination  with  conceptions 
of  Apocalyptic  vision.  But  as  we  passed  along  the 
streets  from  the  great  temple,  the  people  were  wor- 
shipping according  to  their  fashion,  offering  devotions 
to  what  no  foreigner  can  ever  know.  One  can  only  re- 
call the  words  of  the  great  apostle  in  the  Acts  of  the 
Apostles  when  grieved  that  the  city  was  wholly  given  to 
idolatry,  but  with  this  sad  and  depressing  contrast,  the 
Athenians  worshipped  their  creations  of  genius,  beauti- 
ful forms,  or  embodiments  of  abstract  qualities — virtue,, 
courage,  beauty,  heroism,  discovery,  eloquence,  art, 
navigation,  music,  the  stars,  earth  and  its  products. 


169 


while  in  Umri:sur  beastly  degradations  are  turned  into 
objects  of  worship  and  command  the  reverence  of 
men.  Beastiality  is  raised  to  the  throne  of  the  Holy 
One.  Dogs  must  be  revered.  Every  cur  must  be 
placated,  because  in  him  is  believed  to  be  im- 
prisoned the  soul  of  some  ancestor.  The  thought  of 
the  dead  millions  of  India  believed  by  their  successors 
to  be  going  about  in  the  bodies  of  beasts  on  all  fours 
lifts  the  beasts  beyond  the  men  honoring  them.  They 
will  suffer  each  other  to  starve,  to  waste  into  death  by 
hunger  and  disease,  but  they  will  let  no  animal  die 
unpitied,  unfed,  so  that  in  India  a man-eating  tiger  is 
better  than  the  best  of  the  sons  of  humanity.  The  para- 
sites on  the  wretched  bodies  of  the  Hindus  will  not  be 
killed  but  removed  to  some  more  comfortable  place.  If 
they  could  they  would  transfer  them  to  the  missionary. 
They  will  not  kill  the  deadly  cobra,  but  if  he  is  trouble- 
some they  will  remove  him  to  the  compound  of  the 
missionary,  so  that  if  he  kills  him  the  sin  of  disturbing 
the  soul  of  some  defunct  ancestor  will  not  be  on 
them. 

It  is  utterly  impossible  for  those  who  have  not 
been  among  this  people  even  to  imagine  the  degra- 
dation of  this  servitude  to  the  doctrine  of  the  trans- 
migration of  the  soul.  All  beasts  are  not  only  free 
from  restraint  but  come  into  indescribable  relations 
to  men  because  they  are  believed  to  possess  the 
souls  of  their  kin.  We  dare  not  describe,  if  we 
could  hold  in  our  thoughts  the  loathsome  subject. 
It  were  better  for  the  multitudes  of  men  not  to 
know  the  infernal  ingenuities  of  their  kind  by 
which  they  ally  themselves  to  the  beasts,  in  which 
man  only  is  the  loser.  Neither  is  it  possible  to  con- 
ceive of  the  Christian  faith  and  heroism  of  the  mis- 


170 


sionaries,  their  sublime  patience,  from  the  verb  pascor, 
to  suffer,  rather  than  our  modern  idea  merely  to  en- 
dure, in  which  they  undertake  what  is  utterly  hope- 
less to  all  reason,  and  which  can  only  be  relegated  for 
explanation  to  the  two  statements  that  “All  things  are 
possible  with  God”  and  “All  things  are  possible  to 
him  that  believeth.”  The  American  Indian  has  a 
thousand  possibilities  for  improvement  to  one  of  the 
Hindu,  for  the  former  knows  and  will  admit  his  ig- 
norance concerning  God  and  his  destiny  after  death, 
but  that  other  Indian  assumes  to  know  a thousand 
times  more  than  it  is  possible  for  any  Christian  to  tell 
him.  He  pities  the  ignorance  that  proffers  to  him  the 
cup  of  life.  He  knows  every  thing,  and  as  he  sinks 
by  the  gravity  of  unutterable  depravities  he  rises 
into  the  sublimities  of  self-conceit. 

The  most  masterful  argument  to  prove  that  the 
love  for  Jesus  Christ  passes  knowledge  is  in  the 
patience  and  hopefulness,  the  abnegation  of  self- 
pride, and  in  the  patriotism  and  expatriation  of  the 
men  and  women  in  India  who  have  left  all  for  crea- 
tures whose  contact  is,  to  the  European  or  American, 
as  repulsive  as  that  of  a serpent ; who  will  squat  with 
them  in  the  dirt  to  teach  them ; will  cleanse  and  bind 
up  their  ulcers,  the  inheritance  of  ages  of  iniquity; 
who  will  take  into  their  arms  their  dirty,  disgusting 
children  just  because  Jesus  Christ  set  them  the 
example  and  the  fact  that  his  love  has  given  them 
boundless  compassion  for  the  souls  of  all  in  human 
form.  It  is  a monumental  miracle  greater  than  any 
recorded  in  the  New  Testament — miracles  whose  ex- 
planations are  in  the  statement  of  the  IVIaster,  “ What 
I do  ye  shall  do  also  and  greater  things  than  these, 
because  I go  to  my  Father.”  But  these  miracles  are 


m 


not  wrought  by  the  missionaries  only.  They  are 
wrought  by  the  natives  who  have  believed  their  re- 
port, which  shows  that  “ God  hath  made  of  one  blood 
all  nations  of  men  for  to  dwell  on  all  the  face  of  the 
earth,”  for  under  this  passion  of  love  to  Jesus  Christ 
the  native  of  India  has  been  lifted  to  be  the  brother 
and  peer  of  those  who  have  sought  him  to  save  him. 

No  people  ever  lived  so  morally  depraved  who  have 
so  kept  their  physical  beauty,  as  if  the  strange  paradox 
were  only  here  exhibited  that  the  loss  of  moral  quali- 
ties contributes  to  physical  beauty.  But  the  fact, 
which  proves  it  to  be  exceptional  remains,  that  when 
a nature  is  clothed  in  its  right  mind  toward  God,  man 
becomes  not  only  a physical  personality  wonderfully 
symmetrical  and  lithe  inform,  with  lofty  forehead  jew- 
eled with  orbs  flashing  intelligence,  but  when  his  soul 
has  been  poised  on  saving  truth,  he  is  a being  of 
supreme  beauty  and  a joy  forever.  We  saw  hundreds 
of  these  saved  men  and  w^omen  and  talked  with  them, 
for  the  fact  of  their  salvation  soon  finds  utterance  in 
English,  as  if  English  were  yet  to  be  the  tongue  in 
which  the  redeemed  of  all  nations  and  kindreds  should 
utter  their  praises  to  him  that  hath  redeemed  them. 
We  know  here  as  a truth  that  the  grace  of  God  brings 
all  men  unto  universal  brotherhood,  lifts  all  into  unity 
in  Christ  and  equality  with  each  other. 


CHAPTEK  XVI. 


RAMIFIED  CURSES. 

Human  nature  is  full  of  bitter  roots  running  out 
into  seen  and  unseen  curses,  and  all  work  in  life 
can  be  classified  into  efforts  to  extend  or  repress  these 
radical  tendencies.  It  may  be  safely  asserted  that  no 
evil  exists  by  mere  agreement  among  men,  none  have 
their  origin  in  mere  volition,  but  all  are  rooted  in  an 
evil  nature  to  which  the  will  itself  is  subordinated. 
Caste  is  a universal  illustration  of  the  fact  predicated. 
It  exists  the  world  over,  not  by  agreement,  but  by 
evil  instinct.  It  is  arbitrary  in  the  extreme,  because 
it  is  inborn ; and  so  deep  is  it  in  our  nature  that  all 
reformations  have  been  but  the  changing  of  one  caste 
into  another,  with  conditions  a little  less  oppressive, 
and  possibilities  wider  and  more  beneficent.  The 
Master,  whose  coming  was  a protest  against  and  a 
war  on  caste,  did  not  contend  against  much  else  in  his 
short,  sacrificial  life,  until  caste  finished  his  career  on 
the  cross,  his  death  gaining  a greater  victory  over  it 
than  his  life. 

Caste  is  the  curse  of  curses,  in  it  are  the  shadows  of 
all  curses.  Society  is  cutting  itself,  like  the  Gadarene 
demoniac,  by  its  innate  hostilities.  The  divisions  of 
society  in  the  present,  socially,  politically,  commer* 
daily.  Nihilists,  Anarchists,  Communists,  and  all  other 
“ists”  and  “isms”  which  work  by  strifes  against  the 
unity  and  peace  of  men,  proceed  from  the  same  bitter 
hereditary  root.  The  law  of  God  summarized  by 
Jesus  Christ,  “Love  the  Lord  thy  God  and  thy  neigh- 
bor as  thyself,”  is  the  only  antagonism  against  it 


172 


173 


which  gives  any  hope  that  it  will  ever  be  subdued  or 
extirpated.  It  can  be  seen  in  our  own  free  country 
both  in  petty  and  national  oppressions,  in  business, 
in  society,  in  birth,  in  wealth,  in  real  and  unreal  dis- 
tinctions. It  exists  more  distinctly  in  countries  where 
the  governments  a're  built  upon  the  basis  of  caste 
distinctions,  and  nowhere  more  oppressively  and 
offensively  than  in  Great  Britain,  and  were  it  not 
for  the  greater  prevalence  of  the  antagonistic  force 
of  Christianity  it  would  be  as  universal  and  oppres- 
sive as  in  India.  But  Christianity  has  been  fighting 
it  longer  and  more  efiectively  than  in  India. 

Justice  Talfourd,  in  his  last  judicial  deliverances, 
lamented  the  separation  between  class  and  class, 
which  he  sadly  said  was  the  great  curse  of  British 
society,  for  which  we  are  all,  more  or  less,  in  our  re- 
spective spheres  responsible.  But  here  Christian 
equities  and  sentiments  have  gained  visible  victories 
even  in  the  political  situation.  What  Cardinal  Kew- 
mai\>  says  of  Christians  is  true  of  the  English  nation 
even  in  its  caste  conditions.  “ They  never  pronounce 
of  any  one  now  external  to  them  that  he  will  not  some 
day  be  among  them.” 

Having  said  so  much  of  the  radical  existence  in 
human  nature  of  caste  distinctions,  its  oppressions  and 
the  source  of  its  tyrannies,  we  come  to  consider 
Hindu  caste,  the  most  perfect  development  of  the  ideal 
of  a cursed  and  unrestrained  depraved  human  nature 
on  the  earth.  The  English  word  “ caste”  is  most  pro- 
bably derived  from  the  Portuguese  casta”  race — 
‘^varna”  color,  and  “jati,”  race,  are  Indian  names. 
Chaturarnya,  the  country  of  the  four  colors,  is  an  an- 
cient and  distinguishing  epithet  of  India.  Nowhere 
has  caste  such  absolute  control  over  all  life  from  birth 


\ 


174 


to  the  grave  as  in  India.  “ Caste-ridden”  is  the  best 
possible  description  of  the  whole  country.  The  learned 
Dr.  Wilson,  of  Calcutta,  describes  it  in  these  terse  and 
epigrammatic  sentences : — “ It  has  for  infancy,  pupil- 
age and  for  manhood  its  ordained  methods  of  suck- 
ing, pipping,  drinking  and  eating,  of  washing,  anoint- 
ing, of  clothing  and  ornamenting  the  body,  of  sitting,, 
rising,  reclining,  of  moving,  visiting,  travelling,  of 
speaking,  reading,  listening  and  reciting,  of  meditat- 
ing, singing,  working  and  fighting.  It  has  its  laws 
for  social  and  religious  rites,  privileges  and  occupa- 
tions, for  education,  duty,  religious  service,  for  errors, 
sins,  transgressions,  for  inter-communion,  avoidance 
and  excommunication,  for  defilement  and  purification, 
for  fines  and  other  punishments.  It  also  unfolds  the 
ways  for  committing  sins  and  putting  away  sin,  of  ac- 
quiring, dispensing  and  losing  merit.  It  treats  of 
inheritance,  conveyance,  possession,  dispossession  of 
property,  of  bargains,  gains,  loss  and  ruin.  It  deals 
with  death,  burial  and  burning,  and  with  commem#ra- 
tion,  assistance  and  injury  after  death.  It  reigns 
supreme  in  the  innumerable  classes  and  divisions  of 
the  Hindus,  whether  they  originate  in  family  descent, 

* in  religious  opinions,  or  civil,  or  sacred  occupations, 
or*  in  local  residence,  and  it  professes  to  regulate  all 
their  interests,  afiairs  and  relationships.” 

And  stranger  than  all,  even  the  outcasts  are  in  bond- 
age to  the  shadows  of  castes,  or  to  caste  regulations 
of  their  own,  more  oppressive,  if  possible,  than  caste 
itself,  according  to  the  well-known  fact  that  imitators 
are  always  most  servile,  and  they  that  take  disease  by 
voluntary  inoculation  have  it  in  its  worst  forms. 
India  lies  impotent,  bound  hand  and  foot  for  thou- 
sands of  years  under  self-forged  manacles,  the  most 


relentless,  the  most  servile  and  unreasonable  ever 
exercised  by  the  human  mind.  Its  willing,  anxious 
subjection  is  a phenomenon  unparalleled  in  the  his- 
tories of  the  depravities  of  the  race.  It  is  also  a most 
hopeless  oppression,  for  the  people  have  so  adopted  it 
and  so  adjusted  it  to  themselves  that  they  have  ceased 
to  groan  over  its  servitude  or  to  sigh  for  any  change. 
No  change  but  a revolution,  which  will  extinguish  the 
history  and  the  very  thoughts  of  the  race,  will  efface 
these  distinctions  by  w^hich  a Brahmin  must  always 
be  a Brahmin,  a Sudra,  a slave,  must  always  be  a 
Sudra — there  is  not  so  much  as  a line  drawn  from  the 
Sudra  to  the  Brahmin  on  which  hope  could  make  her 
way  across  the  chasm. 

Caste  has  developed  only  the  law  of  social  repul- 
sion. Caste  is  derived  from  birth  alone.  It  is  not 
transferable.  It  cannot  be  the  reward  of  merit.  As 
well  dream  of  changing  an  ass  into  a humming  bird. 
The  Empress  of  India  can  make  changes  in  social 
order  in  Britain,  she  can  raise  the  jockey  to  the  peer- 
age, but  she  has  no  power,  backed  by  her  armies,  to 
change  a single  religious  or  social  distinction  in  India. 
She  cannot  make  two  starving  lepers  of  different  castes 
eat  in  the  presence  of  each  other.  Added  to  the  dom- 
inations of  caste  is  old  age,  only  another  form  of  it. 
Nothing  is  revered  until  decrepit  with  age  and  disgust- 
ing in  its  dissolutions.  The  ancients  are  wise,  they  say, 
the  present  is  babyhood,  so  that  their  philosophies 
are  stenchful  with  decay.  The  whole  of  Indian  phil- 
osophy is  a system  of  inversion — a hind-foremost 
system.  The  fact  is,  the  men  of  to-day  are  the 
ancients,  for  this  is  the  oldest  age  from  Adam  the 
•world  has  ever  seen. 


176 


This  all-potent  system  can  give  no  account  of  its  own 
existence  any  wiser  than  that  found  in  the  servility  of  its 
followers.  The  popular  belief  is  that  the  Brahmins,  the 
priests,  proceeded  from  the  mouth  of  Brahma,  the 
Kshatriyas,  the  soldier  class,  from  his  arms,  the 
Taisyas  from  his  thighs,  and  the  Sudras  from  his 
feet.  But  their  own  histories  do  not  even  prove  the 
pretension.  Caste,  like  the  system  of  Papacy,  had 
come  through  the  ambition  of  priests,  and  from 
the  instinct  of  the  race  which  always  develops  itself  in 
Pharisaism.  The  oldest  reference  to  this  fourfold 
division  is  in  the  Veda,  ninetieth  Hymn  of  tenth  Book, 
and  this  is,  according  to  Oriental  scholars,  the  latest  writ- 
ten, but  no  two  of  the  cosmogonies  of  the  Vedas  agree. 
The  facts  show  that  these  distinctions  were  the  growth 
of  years.  In  the  Santa  Parva  Brigu  it  is  said : — “ There 
is  no  difference  of  castes  in  the  world.  They  were  at 
first  entirely  Brahmatic,  and  here  separated  on  account 
of  works.  Those  twice-born  men  who  weie  fond  of 
sensual  pleasure,  fiery,  irascible,  prone  to  violence, 
who  had  forsaken  their  duty  and  were  red-limbed,  fell 
into  the  condition  of  Kshatriyas.  Those  twice-born 
who  derived  their  livelihood  from  kine,  who  were  yel- 
low, who  subsisted  by  agriculture  and  who  neglected 
to  practise  their  duties,  entered  into  the  state  of  Tais- 
yas. Those  twice-born  who  were  addicted  to  mischief 
and  falsehood,  who  were  covetous,  who  lived  by  all 
kinds  of  work,  who  were  black  and  had  fallen  from 
purity,  sank  into  the  condition  of  Sudras.  Being 
separated  from  each  other  by  these  works,  the  Brah- 
mins became  divided  into  different  castes.”  Vajui 
Purana,  eighth  chapter,  says: — “There  were  then  no 
distinctions  of  castes  or  order's  and  no  mixture  of 
castes.  Men  acted  towards  each  other  without  any 


177 


feeling  of  love  or  hatred.  In  the  Krita  age  they  were 
born  alike  in  form  and  duration  of  life,  without  any 
distinction  of  lower  and  higher.” 

Caste  really  rose  from  the  universal  cosmic  source — 
differences  of  race.  In  the  V edas  are  only  two  castes, 
Aryas  and  Dasyus — Aryas  from  Ar,  to  plough,  agricul- 
turists. Early  in  the  history  of  India  a tribe  speak- 
ing a language  not  Sanscrit,  nor  Greek,  nor  German 
settled  in  the  highlands  of  Central  Asia.  They 
were  adventurous  from  necessity ; more  territory 
must  be  gained  or  starvation  was  before  them.  They 
were  herdsmen  and  led  a migratory  life,  always 
in  search  of  pastures.  The  main  stream  flowed 
toward  the  north-west,  and  the  earliest  to  migrate 
were  the  ancestors  of  the  Celts.  They  were  followed 
by  the  ancestors  of  the  Italians,  Greeks,  Germans  and 
Sclavonians.  Professor  Max  Muller  says  the  Hindu 
is  the  oldest  and  was  the  last  to  leave  the  central 
home  of  the  Aryan  family.  He  was  the  youngest  of 
the  family,  the  weakling,  the  last  to  quit  the  maternal 
breast.  He  had  seen  all  his  brothers  set  their  faces 
toward  the  glowing  sunset.  He  was  the  reactionist, 
as  he  always  has  been ; he  started  on  the  back  track 
for  the  East.  There  is  not  a reasonable  doubt  that  the 
nation  that  now  rules  India,  despised  as  it  is  in  the  eyes 
of  the  natives,  is  of  the  same  blood,  of  the  same  parent- 
age from  the  old  homestead  in  the  highlands  of  Cen- 
tral Asia.  The  language  of  each  shows  it  in  radical 
words.  The  terms  for  God,  house,  father,  mother, 
son,  daughter,  dog,  cow,  heart,  tears,  axe,  tree  are 
identical  in  all  the  Indo-European  idioms.  They  all 
lived  under  the  same  skies,  gazed  on  the  same  stars, 
sunned  themselves  under  the  mild  or  fierce  radiance 
of  the  same  monarch  of  the  skies.  They  worshipped 


178 


the  same  God,  for  we  have  in  the  Vedas  the  invoca- 
tion of  Dyanspitar,  the  Greek  Zeupater,  the  Latin 
Jupater,  The  race  started  in  its  unity  around  the 
same  Heavenly  Father,  and  now  the  older  brothers,, 
who  left  the  family  to  seek  homes  in  the  far  West,  are 
coming,  in  their  mission  of  family  love,  back  to  teach 
the  younger  children  a knowledge  of  the  Divine 
Father  and  the  mediation  of  his  Son,  the  knowledge  of 
whom,  in  the  dark  ages  that  have  rolled  over  them,  they 
have  lost.  Hence  the  European,  w^hom  the  caste-rid- 
den despises,  and  feels  accursed  if  his  shadow  but  fall 
upon  him,  from  whom  he  would  not  take  a cup  of  water 
to  save  his  life,  whom  he  calls  l\Ilechcha,the  vilest  name 
his  hatred  and  imagination  can  conceive,  is  his  long- 
absent  brother  come  to  the  divided  and  accursed 
family  in  their  famine,  ignorance  and  spiritual  and 
temporal  needs,  with  cups  of  blessings  in  both  hands. 

It  may  interest  to  describe  how  the  younger  chil- 
dren of  the  Aryan  household  got  down  into  these  In- 
dian possessions.  They  descended  through  the  passes 
of  Hindu  Kush  and  entered  by  the  highway  of  all  In- 
dian invaders,  except  Alexander  the  Great — the  Khuy- 
ber  Pass,  through  Kabul,  and  probably  crossed  the  In- 
dus at  Attock.  And  when  they  reached  this  fair  and 
flowery  land,  more  beautiful  than  Canaan  ever  was, 
they  found  it  occupied.  The  hostile  Dasyas  were 
there,  remains  of  whom  are  still  found  all  over  India ; 
and  these  had  to  succumb,  as  all  nations  have  since,  to  the 
men  of  the  North.  The  vegetarians  must  move  South 
from  before  the  meat-eaters.  Dasyas  simply  means 
enemies,  all  the  name  their  oppressors  had  for  them, 
and  so  many  were  enslaved  that  the  word  now  means 
slave.  They  were  driven  to  the  South  and  are  proba- 
bly the  Tamil  Telegu  Canarese,  whose  language  is 
quite  distinct  from  the  Sanscrit. 


179 


The  Ary  as,  from  the  North,  were  fair-skinned,  and 
as  usual  prided  themselves  on  their  color,  and  called 
the  Dasyas  black,  or,  probably,  the  “ niggers.”  The 
noses  of  the  Dasyas  were  flatter  than  those  of  the 
Arians,  hence  they  called  them  goat-nosed.  It  will 
begin  to  dawn  upon  us  in  this  history  where  and  how 
caste  distinctions  in  India  appeared,  and  that  these 
distinctions  are  neither  incidental  nor  accidental,  but 
come  out  of  the  pure  cursedness  of  the  mind  and  heart 
of  the  race,  showing  that  total  depravity  has  been  a 
constant  quantity  in  all  its  history.  It  is  the  history 
of  the  oppressor  with  which  we  have  to  do  in  caste. 
The  Dasyas,  in  the  contest,  were  often  captured  and 
made  slaves  to  the  Aryas,  and  became  the  lowest  grade. 
So  there  were  added  to  the  flrst  distinctions  between 
white  and  black,  sharp  noses  and  flat  or  sheep  noses 
another — Sudras,  the  lowest  of  the  four  castes.  The 
Sudras  were  the  aborigines  of  India,  conquered  by 
the  Aryan  invaders.  On  these  distinctions  was  based 
the  distinction  between  the  three  twice-born  castes 
and  the  Sudras. 

The  word  Arya  (noble)  is  derived  from  Arya,  which 
means  householder,  for  the  Aryans  were  householders 
on  the  steppes  of  Northern  Asia,  and  from  this  comes 
the  name  of  the  third  class,  Vaisyas;  and  Aryas 
and  Vaisyas  formed  the  bulk  of  Brahmatic  society. 
And  this  leads  us  to  a subdivision  of  Aryans  accord- 
ing to  their  occupations.  The  flrst  were  those  who 
worshipped  the  gods,  hence  the  priesthood;  second 
the  fighters,  or  army,  and  third  the  cultivators  of  the 
soil.  At  the  first  those  who  fought  were  ahead,  for  a 
state  of  actual  war  is  not  a good  time  for  priestcraft. 
The  men  who  defended  the  people  were  most  revered, 
and  their  leaders  appear  in  the  Vedas  as  the  rajahs  or 


180 


kings,  and  those  who  furnished  the  bread  and  butter 
Vaisyas  householders.  But  when  peace  came  the  wor- 
shippers of  the  gods  gained  the  ascendency,  which 
they  have  held  ever  since.  It  would  be  interesting  to 
show  just  how  this  ascendency,  which  has  existed  for 
more  than  a thousand  years,  was  gained,  for  at  the  first 
anybody  could  preside  at  a sacrifice. 

Caste  in  India  is  an  incremental  growth ; each  age  has 
contributed  something  to  the  power  and  pride  of  that 
fungus  of  society  known  as  the  priest.  Hymn  singing  was 
an  early  devotional  exercise.  The  gods  were  invoked 
in  a hymn  at  the  beginning  of  a battle.  If  a victory 
for  the  king  followed  it  became  a sacred  war  song  of  a 
whole  tribe.  These  hymns  were  handed  on  from  family 
to  family.  A knowledge  of  them  became  the  distinction 
of  a certain  class,  who  told  the  people  that  the  loss  of  a 
single  word,  or  a mistake  in  pronunciation  of  it,  would 
bring  down  on  them  the  wrath  of  the  gods.  Soon 
they  became  masters  of  all  religious  ceremonies  and 
were  revered.  Kings  became  the  creatures  of  their 
caprice.  A Brahmin  was  at  first  only  an  assistant  at 
the  sacrifice,  afterward  a family  priest,  and  his  office 
became  hereditary,  , after  that  they  became  the  advisers 
of  kings.  The  Brahmins  pushed  their  claims  through 
every  avenue  of  power.  They  not  only  fortified  their 
own*  position,  but  began  crowding  the  warriors  and 
householders  for  position. 

“This  Brahminic  constitution,  however,”  as  another 
says,  “was  not  settled  in  a day,  and  we  find  everywhere 
in  the  hymns,  in  the  Brahminas,  and  in  the  epic  poems, 
the  traces  of  a long-continued  warfare  between  the 
Aryas  and  the  aboriginal  inhabitants,  and  violent  con- 
tests between  the  two  highest  classes  of  the  Aryans  striv- 
ing for  political  supremacy.  For  a long  time  the  three 


181 


upper  classes  continued  to  consider  themselves  as  one 
race,  all  claiming  the  title  of  Arya,  in  contradistinc- 
tion from  the  fourth  caste,  or  the  Sudras.  After  long 
and  violent  struggles  between  the  Brahmins  and  the 
Kshatriyas,  the  Brahmins  carried  the  day,  and  if  we 
may  judge  from  the  legends  which  they  themselves 
have  preserved  of  those  struggles,  they  ended  with  the 
total  destruction  of  most  of  the  old  Kshatriya  families 
and  the  admission  of  a few  of  them  to  the  privileges 
of  the  first  caste.” 

This  will  give  an  insight  into  the  origin  of  caste ; the 
details  given  in  Brahminic  literature  are  fabulous  and 
almost  endless.  They  have  incased  themselves  in  every 
conceivable  form  of  protestion  and  absolutism.  A Brah- 
min is  under  no  circumstances  liable  to  capital  punish- 
ment. The  ordinances  of  Manu  constitute  the  highest 
authority  for  the  laws  of  Hindu  caste,  and  in  these 
shaving  the  head  is  ordained  as  the  equivalent  of  capi- 
tal punishment;  in  the  case  of  other  castes  capital 
punishment  may  be  inflicted.  His  superiority  is  de- 
clared in  the  following: — “Whatever  exists  in  the  uni- 
verse is  all  the  property  of  the  Brahmin,  for  the  Brah- 
min is  entitled  to  all  by  his  superiority  and  eminence 
of  birth.  The  king  should  not  slay  a Brahmin  even 
if  he  be  occupied  in  crime  of  every  sort,  but  he  should 
put  hisi  out  of  the  realm,  in  possession  of  all  his 
property  and  uninjured  in  body.  Ko  greater  wrong 
is  found  on  earth  than  killing  a Brahmin.”  The  atone- 
ment for  killing  a Sudra,  the  lowest  class,  is  the  same  as 
that  for  killing  a cat,  a dog,  a lizard.  The  following 
laws  regulate  the  life  of  a Sudra.  “ Even  if  freed  by 
his  master,  the  Sudra  is  not  released  from  servitude, 
for  this  is  innate.  Who  then  can  take  it  from  him? 
A Brahmin  may  take  possession  of  the  goods  of  a 


182 


Sudra  with  perfect  peace  of  mind,  for  as  nothing  be- 
longs to  him  as  his  own,  he  is  one  whose  property  may 
be  taken  away  by  his  master.” 

“If  a (man)  of  one  birth  assault  one  of  the  twice- 
born  castes  with  virulent  words,  he  ought  to  have  his 
tongue  cut  out,  for  he  is  of  the  lowest  origin.f 

“If  he  make  mention  in  an  insulting  manner  of 
their  name  and  caste,  a red-hot  iron  rod,  ten  fingers 
long,  should  be  thrust  into  his  mouth. 

“If  this  man  through  insolence  gives  instruction 
to  the  priest  in  regard  to  duty,  the  king  should 
cause  boiling  hot  oil  to  be  poured  into  his  mouth  and 
ear. 

“If  a man  of  the  lowest  birth  should  with  any 
member  injure  one  of  the  highest  station,  even  that 
member  of  this  man  shall  be  cut  (off) : this  is  an  or- 
dinance of  Manu. 

“ If  he  lift  up  his  hand  or  his  staff  (against  him),  he 
ought  to  have  his  hand  cut  off;  and  if  he  smite  him 
with  his  foot  in  anger,  he  ought  to  have  his  foot  cut  off. 

“ If  a lew-born  man  endeavor  to  sit  down  by  the 
side  of  a high-born  man,  he  should  be  banished  after 
being  branded  on  the  hip. 

“ If  through  insolence  he  spit  upon  him,  the  king 
should  cause  his  two  lips  to  be  cut  off.” 

These  are  but  a few  fragments,  moderate  in  tone 
compared  with  other  invasions  on  human  liberty, 
many  are  not  fit  to  be  read ; they  belong  rather  to  the 
lingo  of  the  pit.  The  Buddhist  religion  is  vastly- 
superior  in  spirit  and  tone,  and  was  a reformation. 
Gautama,  the  founder  of  Buddhism,  is  believed  to 
have  lived  about  the  sixth  century  before  Christ.  He 
was  a Kshatriya,  tlie  second  order  of  caste,  but  he 
freely  admitted  all  castes  into  his  priesthood.  In  the 


183 


Dhamind  Pada,  or  footsteps  of  religion,  he  gives  his 
ideas  of  a true  Brahmin: — “Him  I call  a Brahmin 
who  does  not  offend  by  body,  word,  or  thought,  and  is 
controlled  on  these  three  points.  Him  I call,  indeed, 
a Brahmin  from  whom  anger  and  hatred,  pride  and 
envy  have  dropped  like  mustard  seed  from  the  point 
of  a needle.”  “ Throughout  the  whole  of  the  Budd- 
hist period  in  India,”  says  Sherring,  “of  a thousand 
years  and  upwards  strong  opposition  was  cherished 
by  the  Buddhists  against  caste  throughout  their  dom- 
ination, lasting  between  six  and  seven  hundred  years.” 
Caste  was  declining.  Jainism  is  half-brother  to  Budd- 
ism  and  its  successor  in  India  through  centuries,  and 
hostility  to  caste  still  exists  in  this  organization. 
But  Buddhism  perished  through  persecution,  and 
Brahminism  again  gained  the  ascendency. 

“ Madhava  Acharya  relates  how  his  royal  follower, 
Sudhawan,  a prince  in  Southern  India,  ‘ commanded 
his  servants  to  put  to  death  the  old  men  and  children 
of  the  Buddhists  from  the  bridge  of  Rama  to  the 
Snowy  Mountains ; let  him  who  slays  not  be  slain.’ 
In  Hindu  temples  in  South  India  may  be  seen  repre- 
sentations of  Buddhists  and  Jaines  impaled,  with  dogs 
licking  the  blood  which  trickles  down.  The  Hindu 
account  is  that  they  seated  themselves  on  the  stakes 
rather  than  renounce  their  faith.  There  were  cer- 
tainly local  struggles ; but  whether  there  w’as  any  gen- 
eral persecution  may  be  doubted. 

"^The  Brahmins,  on  regaining  their  supremacy, 
made  the  caste  rules  more  stringent  than  ever.  Mar- 
riages which  were  freely  permitted  by  Manu  were  for- 
bidden. The  facility  for  intermarriage  gave 
place  to  rigid  exclusiveness,  so  that  it  is  now  abso- 
lutely impossible  for  the  pure  castes  to  intermarry 


184 


with  the  mixed,  or  for  the  mixed  to  intermarry  with 
one  another. 

“Not  only  is  intermarriage  between  different  castes 
forbidden,  but  the  same  castes  are  split  up  into  numer- 
ous subdivisions,  which  keep  nearly  as  much  aloof 
from  one  another  as  if  they  were  distinct  castes.  Mr. 
Sherring,  in  his  work  on  ‘ Hindu  Tribes  and  Castes,’ 
enumerates  nearly  two  thousand  subdivisions  of  Brah- 
mins. Sir  AV.  AV.  Hunter  says; — ‘They  follow  every 
employment  from  the  calm  pandits  of  Behar  in  their 
stainless  white  robes  or  the  haughty  priests  of  Ben- 
ares to  the  potato-growing  Brahmins  of  Orissa,  half- 
naked  peasants  struggling  along  under  their  baskets; 
of  yams  with  a filthy  little  Brahminical  thread  over 
their  shoulder.’ 

“Mr.  Sherring  thus  describes  the  divisions  among 
the  Brahmins: — ‘Hundreds  of  these  tribes,  if  not  at 
enmity  with  one  another,  cherish  mutual  distrust  and 
antipathy  to  such  a degree  that  they  are  socially  separ- 
ated from  one  another  as  far  as  it  is  possible  for  them 
to  be — neither  eating  nor  drinking  together,  nor  inter- 
marrying, and  only  agreed  in  matters  of  religion  and 
in  the  determination  to  maintain  the  pride  and  secular 
dominancy  of  their  order.  The  Brahmins  display  all 
the  vices  of  a family  divided  against  itself  with  more 
than  ordinary  intensity,  for  each  one  presumes  on  his 
purity  of  caste  and  birth,  and  affects  the  airs  and 
ostentation  of  an  eldest  son  and  heir.’ 

“Sir  AV.  AV.  Hunter  says: — ‘ In  1864 1 saw  a Brah- 
min felon  try  to  starve  himself  to  death,  and  submit 
to  a flogging  rather  than  eat  his  food  on  account  of 
scruples  as  to  whether  the  birthplace  of  the  North- 
western Brahmin,  who  had  cooked  it,  was  equal  in 
sanctity  to  his  own  native  district.’” 


185 


The  physical  and  moral  defects  of  such  a system  of 
bondage  can  be  worked  out  by  logic,  but  the  human 
mind  would  falter  if  not  assisted  by  the  senses  to  under- 
stand its  otherwise  inconceivable  effects.  Physical 
degeneracy  stares  at  the  traveller  from  every  possible 
angle  of  vision;  children  die  like  flowers  overtaken 
by  unexpected  frost;  a dead  baby  is  no  more  of  a sur- 
prise than  a dead  rat,  and  this  is  the  result  of  neces- 
sary intermarriage  from  this  cursed  caste  system. 
This  can  be  conceived  in  the  fact  that  the  Mudaliyars 
of  Madras  are  divided  into  fifty  sections,  no  one 
of  which  can  intermarry  with  another. 

The  second  curse  of  humanity,  begetting  tyranny  and 
degeneracy,  is  child-marriage.  The  doctrine  is  that 
if  girls  are  not  married  early  they  will  marrj 
outside  of  caste.  One  of  the  saddest  sights  in  India 
is  the  marriage  procession  of  a pair  of  children  whose 
heads  have  to  be  held  up  by  their  attendants — the 
consequences  are  seen  in  every  native  form  and  face 
in  the  millions  of  her  population.  It  is  a tap-root 
from  which  radical  mischiefs  are  carried  all  through 
society.  It  utterly  precludes  any  progress  in  female 
education.  One  of  the  chronic  difficulties  in  mission 
schools  is  that  before  the  female  children  can  learn 
any  thing  they  must  be  married.  The  fountain  of 
intelligence  must  dry.  There  is  maternity,  but  little 
motherhood,  and  children  are  as  neglected  as  new- 
born mice,  if  they  are  permitted  to  live  at  all,  for 
there  is  no  country  where  infanticide  is  so  universal 
without  compunction.  The  marriage  ceremonies  im- 
poverish the  people  through  all  generations.  Ko  man 
born  can  catch  up  to  the  hereditary  curse  entailed  by 
the  follies  of  his  ancestors.  No  marriage  w^as  ever 
consummated  among  the  middle  or  poorer  classes 


f 


186 

without  incurring  debt,  and  that  debt  follows  the  sons  to 
the  third  and  fourth  generation.  This  is  the  place  for  the 
sons  of  Jacob  with  their  usury.  The  Jew  should  have 
his  hand  in ; the  usurer  loans  the  money  true  to  his  in- 
stinct, and  destroys  generations  by  his  entailed  claims. 
These  drastic  customs  exist  among  both  Mohammedans 
and  Hindus.  The  luckless  father  who  has  to  celebrate  a 
marriage  in  his  family  has  to  send  out  his  invitations 
on  powdered  and  tinselled  paper  a month  before  the 
day — if  he  leave  out  an  enemy  he  is  sure  to  be  de- 
nounced in  the  local  vernacular  newspaper. 

“Nor  can  he  calculate  the  probable  number  of  his 
guests  by  the  number  of  invitations  he  has  sent.  An 
invited  guest  wdll  be  sure  to  bring  his  brothers  and 
nephews,  and  not  improbably  a friend  or  two  to 
whom  he  owes  a kindness.  Meantime  the  feelings  of 
the  giver  of  the  least  are  of  a very  mixed  nature. 
He  cannot  quite  avoid  the  thought  that  for  a few 
brief  hours  of  popularity  he  has  wasted  his  substance 
and  irretrievably  beggared  himself  and  his  children. 
Still  the  sight  of  so  many  hungry  friends  and  the  evi- 
dent thankfulness  of  the  diners  buoys  him  up.  He 
runs  to  his  wife  and  tells  her  what  a name  he  has 
won  in  the  town.  She  is  proud  of  her  husband,  and 
tells  him  that  a good  name  outweighs  mortgaged  lands 
and  heaps  of  bills.  At  last  the  great  day  is  over,  the 
account  has  to  be  met,  and  the  dinner-giver  finds  him- 
self a ruined  man.  He  is  turned  out  of  house  and 
home,  and  his  wife  is  received  with  black  looks  and 
blows  by  the  neighbors  from  whom  she  begs  crusts.” 

The  following  incident  will  let  in  the  light  on  the 
marriage  customs  of  the  Hindus  and  the  incoming 
harvests  of  miseries.  A poor  man,  who  is  fighting 
the  battle  for  existence  with  the  odds  against  him. 


187 


said,  “ My  father  owned  six  acres  of  laud,  but  when 
his  three  boys  became  marriageable  he  said,  ‘ Come 
what  wall,  even  if  my  land  goes  from  me,  my  boys 
must  be  properly  married.’  So  he  mortgaged  and  lost 
his  land.  He  was  happy  two  days  and  in  beggary 
all  the  rest  of  his  existence.” 

Infanticide  is  common  among  the  Rajputs;  many  of 
them  murder  their  infant  daughters  to  avoid  the 
ruinous  expenses  incident  to  their  marriage,  and  so 
deeply  rooted  was  this  system  that  the  British  govern- 
ment had  to  employ  a special  agency  for  years  to  sup- 
press the  practice,  which  interference  looks  itself  like 
an  inhumanity  'W’hen  their  lives  are  maintained  in  ever- 
lasting misery.  The  laws  of  the  Brahmins  are  extor- 
tionate ; a money-lender  may  take  eighteen  per  cent., 
or,  reflecting  on  the  duty  of  good  men,  he  may  take 
two  per  cent,  a month,  and  not  become  a wrong-doer 
for  gain,  “ or  he  may  take  a monthly  interest  of  two 
per  cent.,  three  per  cent.,  four  per  cent.,  or  even  five, 
according  to  the  order  of  the  castes,  beginning  with  the 
Brahmin.”  “ The  Sudras,  the  lowest  caste,  have  often 
to  pay  sixty  per  cent.  Poor  debtors  have  often  to 
pay  seventy-five  per  cent,  per  annum.”  Borrowing  is 
a passion  among  the  natives,  and  paying  is  a perdition. 
Caste  degrades  labor.  It  is  almost  indecent  to  be 
energetic.  There  are  but  a few  avenues  to  honorable 
livelihood  that  are  not  closed  by  it.  The  civil  archi- 
tect is  branded  as  a bastard.  The  carpenter  and  gold- 
smith are  accursed  by  the  Brahmins,  and  their  curses 
are  stuck  on  for  one  caprice  after  another,  until  all 
art  is  debased  in  the  eyes  of  the  people.  This  curse 
lies  on  all  knowledge,  all  intellectual  effort  is  discour- 
aged, and  the  consequence  is  a total  prostration  of 
intellect  and  of  mental  energy,  not  only  in  the  gen- 


188 


eral  mass  of  the  community,  but  even  among  that 
favored  class  itself. 

“ Learning  has  dwindled  down  to  childish  frivolity, 
and  religion  to  ceremonial  purity.”  “ Our  Pandits  of 
the  present  day  are  a set  of  lazy,  superstitious,  weak- 
minded  men,  living  mostly  on  the  community,  with- 
out contributing  at  all  to  its  welfare ; having,  some  of 
them,  a little  dexterity  in  threading  the  dreams  of 
metaphysics,  and  the  unenviable  ability  of  framing 
specious  pretexts  for  disguising  the  plainest  truths.” 

Caste  is  hostile  to  every  hope  of  nationality,  and 
India  will  never  govern  itself  until  this  is  broken 
down.  Think  of  fifty  thousand  Englishmen  conquer- 
ing the  manhood  in  two  hundred  millions.  It  is  pos- 
sible only  in  the  divisions  and  hatreds  of  caste.  Max 
Muller  says,  “ The  Indian  never  knew  the  feeling  of 
nationality.”  He  never  thinks  of  his  country  as  a 
whole;  an  Indian  army  is  an  impossibility.  The 
Mohammedans  and  the  Sikhs  are  the  fighters,  because 
they  are  not  enslaved  by  caste  conditions.  Hence 
the  Mohammedans  have  invaded  and  conquered  India 
for  centuries.  It  produces  utter  heartlessness ; charity 
cannot  live  among  such  a people;  “love  thy  neigh- 
bor as  thyself”  is  still-born  ; there  is  not  liberty 
enough  in  all  India  to  give  it  a single  healthy  pulsa- 
tion. This  is  not  because  of  natural  hard-heartedness, 
but  from  unnatural  restraint.  A man  lies  dying  in 
the  street,  people  pity  him,  but  they  dare  not  touch 
him  because  they  know  not  his  caste,  and  they  will 
not  touch  him  if  they  do,  and  if  the  jackals  do  not 
eat  him  out  of  his  miseries,  he  will  die  breath  by  breath 
until  his  prostrate  lungs  will  take  no  more.  'While 
this  is  going  on  children  pelt  him  with  stones  and 
mud. 


189 


Caste  dries  up  the  springs  of  charity,  and  the  result 
is  a chasm  even  wider  than  that  which  separates  man 
from  serpents  in  Christian  countries.  It  is  a perplex- 
ing paradox  that  supreme  natural  beauty  and  dis- 
gusting moral  ugliness  dwell  together.  There  is  not 
in  all  India  a single  opportunity  for  a man  to  rise 
above  the  conditions  of  his  birth.  The  whole  Empire 
lies  under  this  hoary  curse,  and  the  people  would 
cringe  if  even  Christ’s  shadow  should  fall  upon  them. 
It  compels  the  Hindu  to  be  forever  narrow  and  ignor- 
ant. He  cannot  go  beyond  his  own  country  without 
losing  caste.  If  he  return  loaded  with  useful  knowl- 
edge for  his  people,  they  receive  him  as  an  outcast; 
he  can  only  regain  his  lost  position  by  the  most  un- 
speakable degradations. 

' Animal  worship  exists  all  over  India  in  its  most 
disgusting  forms.  The  cow  is  not  only  worshipped,  but 
her  very  excrements  are  considered  sacred.  We 
quote  in  the  interest  of  truth  only,  and  apologize  as 
we  quote  from  Sir  Monier  Williams’  book  ‘^Religious 
Thought  in  India”  the  following: — “Cow  urine  is  the 
best  of  all  holy  waters.  Among  the  Parsis  it  is 
brought  into  the  house  every  morning.  Cow  manure 
is  supposed  to  have  equal  efficacy.  The  ashes  pro- 
duced by  the  burning  of  this  substance  are  of  such  a 
holy  nature  that  they  have  only  to  be  sprinkled  over 
a sinner  to  convert  him  into  a Hindu  saint.  To  swal- 
low a pill  composed  of  the  five  products  of  the  cow — 
milk,  curds,  ghee,  urine  and  excrements — will  even 
purify  a man  from  the  deep  pollution  of  a journey  to 
England.”  We  have  at  this  time  in  the  United  States 
not  a few  who  bow  to  the  beauties  and  verities  of  com- 
parative religion,  and  who  are  ready  to  cherish  Hindu 
adventurers.  Such  may  be  surprised  to  learn  that 


190 


Babu  Amrita  Lai  Roy,  much  made  of  in  New  York 
and  other  Eastern  cities,  has  repented.  He  has  gone 
through  the  interesting  penitential  ceremony  after  the 
style  described  in  the  choir  antics,  where  one  word  is 
repeated  until  all  its  connections  are  ridiculous. 
“Take  thy  pill,”  by  the  soprano;  “Take  thy  pill,”  by 
the  alto,  and  “Take  thy  pill,”  by  the  bass,  and  “Take 
thy  pilgrim  staff”  in  chorus.  Babu  Amrita  Lai  Roy 
has  taken  not  his  pilgrim  sta!ff,  but  a penitential  pill 
of  the  cow  combination  in  deep  contrition.  On  ac- 
count of  the  defilements  which  he  suffered  from  con- 
tact with  the  elegant  American,  “Mlechchas,”  who  so 
lavishly  entertained  his  Oriental  eminence,  the  Lib- 
eral,  a native  journal,  says: 

“ It  sounds  odd,”  says  the  lAberal^  “ that  a person  who 
has  eaten  no  end  of  cows  should  finish  by  showing  his 
veneration  for  the  same  animal  by  swallowing  dung- 
cakes. 

“ The  worst  feature  of  the  case  is  that  an  influential 
Bengali  newspaper,  the  Amrita  Bazar  Patrika,  regards 
Mr.  Roy  as  having  ^shown  an  amount  of  heroism  which 
ought  to  form  an  example  to  those  impious  wretches 
who  rebel  against  the  laws  and  customs  of  their  own 
country.  After  a keen  observation  of  several  years  he 
comes  home,  and  he  prefers  his  superstition  and  idol- 
atry to  all  that  he  had  seen  in  the  so-called  enlightened 
countries  of  the  world.  This  is  a fact,  which  ought  to 
give  some  food  for  reflection.’ 

“ The  Bombay  Gazette  says : ‘ We  agree  that  this  does 
afford  ‘food  for  reflection,’  in  illustrating  how  possible 
it  is  even  for  men,  claiming  respectability,  to  debase 
themselves  before  the  whole  world,  and  for  them  and 
their  friends  to  glory  in  their  shame.’ 

“ It  would  be  unfair  not  to  give  other  native  com- 
ments on  such  proceedings.  The  following  quotation 


191 


had  reference  to  another  case,  but  the  principle  is  the 
same. 

“The  Hindu  Patriot,  the  leading  native  paper,  while 
under  the  editorship  of  the  late  Hon.  Kristo  -Das  Pal, 
remarked : . , 

“ ‘ As  Indians,  we  should  feel  humiliated  to  see  any 
one  of  our  fellow-Indians,  with  silly  caste-notions  in 
his  head,  travelling  to  Europe — especially,  when  the 
traveller  pretends  to  represent  the  rising  and  educated 
classes.’  ” 

This  pivotal  representative  of  India  is  not  a repre- 
sentative of  any  thing  but  of  reactionary  hypocrisy. 
There  is  a young  India  coming  to  the  front  with  the 
manliness  to  scourge  it.  Mr.  N.  G.  Chandavarker, 
the  Bombay  delegate  to  England,  said  with  truth  re- 
cently:— “Above  all,  we  are  a caste-ridden  people, 
and  where  caste  exists,  there  the  political  spirit  can 
and  will  never  prosper.”  Professor  Bhandarkar  says: 
“ The  caste  system  is  at  the  root  of  the  political  slav- 
ery of  India.”  Another  native  journal  says: — “It  is 
humiliating  to  have  Europe  to  believe  that  what  we 
call  ‘ education’  has  not  yet  freed  our  intellects  from 
the  trammels  of  superstition ; that  we  are  afraid  even 
to  drink  a glass  of  pure  w'ater  from  the  hands  of  an 
Englishman,  lest  the  recording  angel  should  make  a 
damning  entry  against  us  in  his  books!  India  can 
never  be  regenerated  till  she  has  outlived  the  oppres- 
sive institution  of  caste;  and  she  can  never  outlive 
the  oppressive  system  of  caste,  if 'we  are  to  look  to 
men  like  . . . who  begins  like  a daring  rebel, 

but  ends  into  an  imbecile  sw^allower  of  penitential 
pills!” 


CHAPTER  XVIL 


LOBIANA. 

SOUTH-EAST  from  Umritsur  about  one  nundred 
and  fifty  miles  is  this  important  city  and  district. 
It  is  not  rich  in  historic  wealth.  Its  claim  to  consid- 
eration is  altogei^her  modern.  It  was  formerly  part 
of  the  Loodi  Afghan  principality  of  Jalunder,  and 
when  the  British  made  the  treaty  with  Rungeet 
Singh,  King  of  Lahore,  it  was  a part  of  the  agree- 
ment that  if  he  had  no  heirs  to  the  throne  it  should 
come  under  control  of  the  East  India  Company. 
Duleep  Singh,  being  the  last  legal  heir,  the  English 
succeeded  to  a splendid  estate,  in  which  Lodiana  was 
the  centre.  It  had  at  the  beginning  of  the  English 
occupation  only  about  sixteen  thousand  inhabitants. 
But  the  presence  of  the  English  always  brings  finan- 
cial assurance  and  strength.  Wealth  sought  out  for 
itself  a place  in  Lodiana,  and  it  has  increased  in 
bulk  and  influence  ever  since.  The  city  is  situated 
on  an  elevation,  a rise  in  a plain  of  great  fertility.  The 
dazzling  sun  disclosed  in  the  distance  the  presence  of 
the  river  Sutledge,  which  we  crossed  near  Lahore.  It 
was  harmless  enough  lying  sunning  itself  in  its  bed,  but 
it  goes  about  generally  in  the  rainy  season  regardless 
of  all  barriers,  public  opinion  not  excepted.  Some- 
times it  takes  up  its  watery  skirts  and  marches  away 
from  towns  or  ghats,  sacred  watering  places,  and 
makes  a new  way  for  itself  by  that  right  of  eminent 
domain  which  it  has  never  surrendered  to  any  gov- 
ernment. 


192 


193 


The  fact  is  that  Indian  rivers*  are  the  most  mutin- 
ous and  rebellious  subjects  of  the  country,  to  which 
even  the  British  government  is  but  too  glad  to  defer. 
The  Behat  was  the  Hydespes  of  Alexander's  time,  a^^d 
at  a point  further  north-west  he  found  limits  to  his 
purpose  to  conquer  the  world.  Northward  the  out- 
lines of  the  Himalayas  are  seen,  the  sun  glistening  on 
their  eternal  snows ; and  the  atmosphere,  shortening 
the  distance,  brings  them  apparently  almost  within 
the  touch  of  the  hand.  In  the  same  direction,  hung 
up  among  the  clouds  like  a continent  of  pearl  silvered 
over  in  early  light  and  gilded  by  the  last  rays  of  sun- 
set, are  these  vast  regions  of  unrelenting  ice  that  seem 
to  be  rather  in  the  clouds  than  to  belong  to  the  foun- 
dations of  earth  below.  Through  these  peaks,  marked 
by  notches  or  depressions,  are  the  passes  which  lead 
into  the  valleys  of  Cashmere.  But  surroundings  are 
of  no  consequence  unless  they  surround  something. 
The  grandest  quality  within  the  circle  of  vision  de- 
scribed was  missionary  hospitality  as  it  manifested 
itself  at  two  o’clock  in  the  morning  in  a carriage  in  the 
person  of  Kev.  Charles  Newton,  who  seemed  actually 
to  enjoy  the  service  of  carrying  two  of  his  weary  coun- 
trymen, one  of  them  being  a woman,  into  his  hospi- 
table compound  and  refreshing  them  with  food  and 
drink  given  by  his  own  hands.  The  remnant  of  the 
darkness  and  a considerable  portion  of  the  sunlight 
were  passed  in  profound  sleep,  without  the  shadow  of 
fear,  in  this  spot  of  our  Church’s  first  endeavor  to 
reach  heathen  India  through  the  gospel.  Here  was  the 
birthplace  of  American  Presbyterian  missions,  destined 
to  be  a greater  triumph  in  the  future  of  the  world’s 
history  than  the  discovery  of  the  sources  of  the  Nile. 
A Church  without  mission  purposes  and  achievements 


194 


is  dead.  If  it  lives  its  life  will  flow  mainly  in  this 
channel.  The  young  Presbyterian  Church  in  the 
United  States  began  early  to  show  indications  that 
it  would  be  a living,  standing  Church.  The  unfold- 
ing of  its  potentialities  began  in  Pittsburgh  under  the 
title  of  “the  Western  Foreign  Missionary  Society,’’ 
and  its  first  eflbrt  was  made  in  1834. 

The  Lodiana  mission  thus  commenced  was  after- 
ward conveyed  to  the  Board  of  Foreign  Missions  of 
the  General  Assembly  of  the  Presbyterian  Church,, 
which  succeeded  it.  The  word  Lodiana  had  come  to 
be  a household  word  in  our  childhood  home ; all  subsi- 
dies and  all  hopes  went  toward  it.  The  old  pastor  talked 
in  the  monthly  concert  of  missions  of  “Lodiana,” 
“ Shanghai”  and  “ Futtegurh,”  and  going  now  to  these 
spots  was,  in  a sense,  coming  back  to  childhood  again 
and  into  the  companionships  of  dear  ones  gone  before,, 
the  echoes  of  whose  prayers  that  “the  heathen  might  be 
given  to  Christ  for  his  inheritance  and  the  uttermost 
parts  of  the  earth  for  his  possessions”  were  caught  up 
in  India,  while  the  forms  of  beloved  ministers  and 
elders,  father  and  mothers  re-appear  in  memory  at  this 
centre  of  their  expectations.  We  see  the  long  pole 
with  the  ring  and  bag  at  the  end  going  from  pew  to 
pew  into  which  we  children  were  taught  to  put  our 
pennies,  when  we  thought  it  a great  thing  to  send  the 
gospel  to  the  heathen  at  Lodiana.  We  can,  in  this 
far-off  spot,  recall  our  devoted  fathers,  so  reverent,  so 
hopeful  that  the  promise  of  God  and  the  little 
that  they  could  give  would  bring  the  heathen  of 
India  into  the  kingdom  of  heaven.  We  see  those 
stately  elders  and  deacons  stop  after  all  had  given 
and  open  their  slim  purses  and  put  their  portion  in  as 
conscientiously  as  they  prayed,  “Let  thy  kingdom 


195 


come.’*  The  day  of  Foreign  Mission  was  a great 
occasion  for  the  young  ones,  so  full  of  the  mys- 
terious, and  yet  so  attractive  in  the  way  our  parents 
described  it.  The  old  minister  shook  his  head  at  each 
emphatic  sentence,  and  when  he  repeated  “ Lodiana,” 
“Shanghai”  and  “Futtegurh”  it  fairly  lifted  us  from  the 
seat  it  was  so  awful — all  about  us  were  deeply 
moved,  and  when  “ From  Greenland’s  Icy  Mountains” 
was  sung,  in  our  youthful  imagination,  there  never 
was,  or  could  be,  a tune  so' grand.  The  thin  childish 
voices  chimed  in  with  the  stalwarts,  who  fairly  shook 
the  rafters  with  the  delight  which  faith,  the  substance 
of  things  hoped  for,  always  inspires.  The  men  and 
women  prayed  and  praised  with  their  hearts,  their 
hopes,  their  mouths,  their  tongues,  even  with  their 
noses;  they  praised  God  that  they  had  missions 
in  Lodiana,  Shanghai  and  Futtegurh.  They  saw 
from  these  centres,  all  India  casting  its  idols  to  the 
moles  and  bats.  Dear,  faithful  souls,  who  waited  so 
patiently  and  died  without  the  sight;  some  of  their 
children  in  the  places  which  they  knew  only  by  the 
hearing  of  the  ear  have  seen  and  appreciate  the  work, 
which,  to  them,  could  only  exist  in  faith. 

Wondrous  memories  are  these  which  start  up  here 
in  the  battle-fields  for  Christ.  We  remember  the  de- 
light in  the  household  when  the  monthly  foreign 
missionary  magazine  was  due,  and  when  we  walked  four 
miles  and  back  from  the  post-office  to  get  it.  Then  its 
very  green  cover  gave  delight;  it  was  read  on  Sab- 
bath afternoons,  after  Catechism  had  been  recited,  as 
a luxury  after  the  weariness  and  sometimes  spanking 
of  that  good  old  service,  which  was  put  up  the  spinal 
column  in  a thoroughly  orthodox  way.  We  had  not 
learned  the  complaint  of  days  to  come  that  it  was 


196 


stupid ; that  hurt  our  feelings  for  a long  time  after  we 
first  heard  it.  It  was  like  dismissing  the  precious 
memories  of  childhood  to  give  it  up.  The  big  book 
that  has  now  taken  its  place  is  good,  but  is  no  kin  to 
us,  as  was  that  green-covered  pamphlet  that  made  its 
monthly  visit  to  our  childhood’s  home,  read  by 
mother,  whose  calls  for  help  were  sacred,  in  answer 
to  which  the  finances  of  the  family  were  ever  on  a 
strain.  Such  was  the  reverence  of  childhood  for  these 
places  and  their  names  that  when  the  first  Shanghai 
rooster  came  into  the  neighborhood  we  begged  to  be 
permitted  to  see  him  as  a gratification  to  our  mission- 
ary zeal.  These  childish  fancies  that  have  come  back 
to  us  in  memory  are  given  here  not  to  lower  the  subject, 
but  to  show  the  hold  that  Foreign  Missions  had  on 
the  childhood  of  the  past,  and  how  deep  its  roots  were 
in  the  beginning,  which  explains  its  hold  on  the  heart 
of  the  Church  to-day,  and  how  certainly  it  will  perish 
if  it  does  not  contrive  to  plant  itself  deeply  in  the 
young  life  of  the  Church. 

The  names  of  the  first  missionaries  are  as  sacred  as 
the  reminiscences  of  the  work  itself ; the  sacrifices 
made  of  home  and  country  started  many  a tear.  Our 
parents  told  of  the  young  soldier  of  Christ  who  left 
his  home  and  bade  farewell  to  his  venerable  father, 
who  had  devoted  his  life  to  nourishing  the  efforts  of  the 
Church,  which  has  grown  into  such  glorious  propor- 
tions as  we  see  to-day.  Our  hearts  were  touched  as  our 
father  read  to  us  of  the  death  of  young  AYalter  Lowrie 
by  pirates  on  his  way  to  Ningpo,  and  in  later  years 
of  the  death  of  Reuben  Lowrie  in  Shanghai  in  the 
dew  of  his  young  manhood.  These  were  the  kind  of 
sacrifices  that  made  the  cause  dear  to  the  men  and 
women  who  now  work  for  its  progress.  There  is  no 


197 


progress  but  through  sacrifices ; no  living  cause  but  must 
have  its  roots  in  these.  “ That  which  thou  sowest  is 
not  quickened  except  it  die.”  So  the  foundation  nf 
the  mission  work  to  be  built  up  in  India  was  at  its 
very  beginning  to  cost  life.  The  first  missionaries  ap- 
pointed to  India  were  Revs.  John  C.  Lowrie  and  Wil- 
liam Reed,  who,  with  their  wives,  arrived  in  Calcutta 
in  October,  1833.  They  determined  to  found  the  for- 
eign work  for  Christ  at  Lodiana,  led  to  this  decision 
partially  by  the  advice  of  British  ofiicers  in  the  In- 
dian army.  But  they  could  not  begin  until  life  had 
been  offered  up  on  the  altar  of  faith  and  obedience.  ■ 
Mrs.  Lowrie  died  in  Calcutta  of  consumption  and  Mr. 
Reed  was  attacked  by  the  same  disease  and  was  ad- 
vised to  return  to  his  native  land,  and  having  em- 
barked died  in  the  Bay  of  Bengal,  and  his  remains 
were  given  to  the  deep  near  the  Andaman  Islands. 
Two  gone  before  a word  for  Christ  to  the  heathen  was 
spoken,  and  Mr.  Lowrie  had  to  make  the  sorrowful 
journey  of  more  than  twelve  hundred  miles  up  the 
Ganges  sorrowful  and  alone,  with  nothing  between 
him  and  despair  but  the  promise  of  God.  Then  after 
the  mission  station  was  reached  he  was  so  sick  that  he 
had  to  depait  for  Simla,  suspending  the  work  for 
nearly  a year. 

In  1835  Messrs.  James  Wilson,  and  John  Newton, 
now  of  Lahore,  arrived  in  Lodiana  and  entered  on 
their  work  A school  was  founded,  which  has  poured 
forth  its  light  in  this  dense  darkness  for  more  than 
fifty  years.  A printing  press  was  set  up  and  put  in 
operation  about  the  same  time,  which  has  sent 
forth  its  winged  seeds  to  start  immortal  growths. 
Lodiana  has  from  the  first  been  a centre  for  lit- 
erary as  well  as  evangelistic  work.  The  missionaries 


198 


have  generally  been  superior  scholars.  Here  a lit- 
erature for  the  missions  of  all  Northei-n  India  lias  been 
prepared.  The  men  of  Lodiana  have  made  straight 
the  way  of  the  Lord,  Books  in  many  languages, 
translations,  tracts,  and  school  books  have  been  sent 
forth  from  this  centre.  The  Lodiana  Press,  since  its 
establishment,  has  printed  add  scattered  niillions 
of  pages,  which  have  had  a circulation  through 
almost  all  India.  The  issues  of  this  publication  house 
have  been  as  high  as  250,000  copies  a year,  13,460,000 
pag^s  in  at  least  four  languages,  and  for  eight  different 
societies.  The  numbers  now  are  not  so  great,  for 
other  agencies  have  sprung  up,  with  appliances  for 
more  rapid  work. 

This  spot  has  been  the  theatre  of  great  thoughts 
and  consecrated  learning.  It  holds  the  histories 
of  courageous  souls,  and  if  its  founder  could  return, 
he  would  be  astonished  at  the  results  of  those 
few  years  of  self-denial  and  suffering,  for  in  1836  he 
was  obliged  to  leave  the  scene  of  his  first  youthful  en- 
deavors forever  on  account  of  failing  health.  Others 
have  come  after  and  endured  and  finished  their  course, 
and  whatever  Lodiana  has  been  and  shall  be  as  a 
light  centre  must  be  attributed  to  all  its  toilers. 

The  present  incumbent,  worthy  successor  in  the  line 
of  those  who  out  of  weakness  have  been  made  strong,  is 
Rev.  Charles  Newton,  a man  born  to  his  mission  and 
fitted  for  it  by  natural  gifts  and  high  attainments.  He 
is  known  all  over  Northern  India  as  one  of  the  best 
preachers  to  the  natives  in  the  land.  He  is  quick  and 
ingenious  in  handling  those  pests,  the  Mohammedans 
and  Brahmin  priests,  who  try  to  break  up  the  street 
and  bazar  preaching.  He  has  discomfited  them  so 
often  that  the  knowing  ones  fight  shy  of  him.  Being 


199 


a native  lie  knows  all  their  dodges  and  sharps,  and, 
having  the  language  at  his  tongue’s  end  and  all  the 
advantages  of  high  culture  in  the  English,  he  is  more 
than  a match  for  heathenism  in  its  scepticisms.  But 
beyond  this  he  wins  them  by  his  ability  to  show  the 
superiority  of  the  gospel,  its  suitableness  to  their  needs, 
and  its  comforts  in  their  sorrows.  The  heathen  believe 
in  the  man,  if  they  do  not  in  his  religion.  The  Indian 
government  has  given  the  right  to  the  natives  to  elect 
a certain  number  of  their  justices  in  the  courts,  but 
there  are  many  parties  among  them  and  they  dis- 
trust each  other.  They  concluded  that  all  could 
trust  the  missionary  w^ho  had  been  born  among  them 
and  whose  life  the^^  knew,  so  they  unanimously  elected 
him  as  a member  of  their  local  court.  If  getting  the 
people  to  join  themselves  to  many  of  our  missionaries 
as  the  objects  of  their  adoration  were  the  main  object, 
it  could  be  done  far  more  easily  than  to  get  them  to 
give  up  the  religion  of  their  life,  nation,  and  social 
standing  for  Christ’s  sake.  It  is  the  change  of  re- 
ligions, not  masters,  which  tries  them  so  sorely.  We 
regret  * that  Rev.  Edward  Newton  was  out  on  an 
itinerant  mission  among  the  villages,  which  is  a 
work  carried  on  with  zeal  and  success  from  this  mis- 
sion, but  one  does  not  need  to  see  the  missionaries  to 
know  their  good  qualities.  These  one  hears  from  the 
lips  of  both  natives  and  Europeans,  for  the  admiration 
of  good  missionaries  is  almost  universal  in  India.  It 
is  not  the  men,  but  their  faith,  as  an  assault  on  their 
own,  that  the  people  antagonize. 

The  old  mission  compound  is  beautiful.  The  trees 
are  clothed  in  foliage  now,  in  winter,  and  the  flowers  are 
lovely  and  abundant.  The  famous  old  printing  ofiice 
is  in  full  operation,  throwing  off  the  words  of  eternal 


200 


life  in  strange  and,  to  us,  meaningless  characters. 
The  church  is  an  object  of  veneration,  tlie  survivor  of 
many  lives  and  years.  It  has  its  own  histories,  shading 
over  into  eternity.  About  these  premises  and  in  this 
church  are  to  be  seen  veterans  whose  Christian  lives 
reach  back  to  the  beginnings,  and  there  are  young 
men  rising  up  to  take  their  places.  The  old  punkas, 
which  have  fanned  the  faces  of  the  preachers  and 
worshippers,  look  as  if  they  were  weary  and  exhausted 
in  their  long  service.  Those  for  whom  they  made 
life  tolerable  have  found  rest,  and  hands  that  moved 
them  have  fallen,  but  they  must  go  on  forever.  In 
this  compound  is  a school  which  had  nearly  perished 
when  the  Christian  women  of  Philadelphia  took  it  up 
and  provided  accommodations  in  room  and  furnish- 
ings, and  now  the  schools  are  making  hopeful  progress. 
If  the  givers  could  see  the  glad  faces  changed  from 
the  dullness  and  degradations  of  heathenism  into 
happy,  buoyant  childhood,  industrious,  intelligent,, 
and  reverent  to  the  teachings  of  the  word  of  God, 
they  w’ould  feel  it  the  best  investment  of  their  lives, 
which  may  bring  them  surprises  from  unl6oked-f  >r 
sources  in  heaven.  Prof.  McComb,  of  Western  Pennsyl- 
vania, an  able  and  devoted  educator,  is  in  charge.  The 
scholars  were  heard  in  recitation,  and  appeared  not 
only  to  understand  their  studies,  but  to  be  enthusiastic 
in  them.  There  is  an  industrial  department,  ab* 
solutely  necessary,  both  to  make  scholars  more  efficient 
in  gaining  a living  and  also  to  fortify  them  against 
the  boycottings  of  caste.  All  boys  cannot  find  gov- 
ernment employment,  all  have  not  the  capacity  to 
receive  the  preparation.  The  great  trades  need  men 
skilled  in  modern  attainments,  in  hand-craft,  and  it  is 
better  that  they  should  become  good  mechanics  and 


201 


agriculturists  than  poor  teachers  and  preachers.  To 
meet  this  want  an  industrial  department  has  been 
founded.  It  is  practical  and  appeals  to  good  common 
sense,  and  it  needs  help.  Here  is  a field  which  will  be 
appreciated  by  men  of  business.  They  make  beautiful 
rugs  and  carpets ; why  cannot  our  Christian  people 
order  them  from  our  missionary  schools,  and  thus  give 
employment  to  these  poor  children?  We  hope  that  a 
lucrative  business  will  spring  up  to  help  this  good 
work. 

Zenana  work.  This  is  carried  on  with  success  by 
all  the  missionaries’  wives,  but  specially  by  the  Misses 
Downs  and  Given.  Both  of  these  ladies  are  from 
Chicago,  sent  out  by  the  Women’s  Foreign  Mission- 
ary Society  of  the  North-west.  They  are  reaching  their 
WTetched,  imprisoned  sisterhood  who  sit  in  darkness. 
Some  of  the  zenanas  were  visited  by  the  companion 
of  our  pilgrimages.  The  zenana  missionaries  and 
their  visitor  started  in  a gJiari,  which  is  a one-horse 
institution  of  the  country  for  conveying  native  and 
foreign  humanity  from  place  to  place.  All  must 
defer  to  its  coming.  The  outfit  consists  of  a horse 
and  a four  wheeled  vehicle,  the  doors  and  sides  being; 
of  lattice  work  to  let  in  the  air.  There  is  a driver  and 
a runner,  the  business  of  the  latter  being  to  announce 
the  coming  of  the  chariot  with  fiery  steed.  As  there  are 
no  sidewalks  and  the  streets  are  narrow,  a way  must  be 
made  through  crowds.  The  crier’s  shouts  translated 
mean,  “You  woman,  there,  with  the  basket,  get  out  of 
the  way!  You  man  with  the  green  turban,  get  out  of 
the  way!”  and  so  at  a screaming  pitch  the  way  is 
cleared.  The  ghari  brought  up  at  a high  gateway  of 
what  w^ould  require  a stretch  of  imagination  to  call  a 
palace,  with  a mud  wall  shutting  it  out  from  an 


202 


inquisitive  world.  Here  lives  the  last  heir  of  the 
famous  kings  of  Cabool,  a pensioner  on  the  English 
government,  who,  with  his  family,  is  now  a resident  of 
Lodiana.  The  history  is  interesting. 

Shah  Shiya  had  applied  for  assistance  to  the  old 
king  of  Lahore,  Rungeet  Singh,  and  lavished  on  him 
nearly  all  of  his  immense  treasure  of  jewels,  among 
which  was  the  famous  Kohinoor  diamond,  besides 
offering  to  confirm  his  possession  of  the  country  of  the 
five  rivers  to  him  as  king.  Finally  a treaty  was  made 
between  the  English  and  the  king  of  Lahore,  by 
which  they  were  each  to  send  an  army  to  reinstate 
the  fugitive  on  the  .throne  of  Afghanistan.  After 
doing  this  the  troops  remained  a year  to  consolidate 
his  power,  but  he  became  unpopular  and  was  slain  by 
the  people.  On  the  6th  of  January,  1842,  16,500 
souls  marched  out  of  the  cantonments  at  Cabool,  on 
their  return  march  to  India.  Of  this  multitude  only 
one  person,  Dr.  Brydon,  survived  the  retreat  through 
the  mountains  and  lived  to  reach  Jellallabad,  one  hun- 
dred miles  away,  or  nearly  half  the  distance  between 
the  starting  point  and  the  Indus  River.  They  were 
constantly  harassed  by  the  enemy,  and  amid  storms  of 
snow,  were  betrayed  by  false  guides  into  blind  paths, 
where  they  were  remorselessly  massacred  by  the  pur- 
suing Afghans.  This  disaster  has  scarcely  a parallel 
in  history.  The  son  of  this  last  king,  and  heir  to  the 
throne  of  Cabool,  is  in  comparatively  poor  circum- 
stances, his  harem  being  reduced  to  only  eighteen 
wives.  He  has  a number  of  daughters,  none  of  whom 
are  married,  because  there  are  no  princes  of  equal 
rank  in  the  matrimonial  market.  One  of  the  younger 
princesses  is  regarded  as  a great  beauty,  and  having  a 
will  of  her  own,  eloped  with  a lover ; but  the  prince, 


203 


her  father,  sent  the  police  in  search  of  her.  She  was 
captured  and  brought  back  to  her  father’s  house.  She 
came  scuttling  across  the  dusty  courtyard  in  her  little 
slippers,  down  at  the  heels,  with  some  of  the  other 
women,  to  see  the  foreign  visitors.  The  oldest  prin- 
cess, to  whom  the  visit  was  paid,  was,  apparently, 
about  forty  years  of  age,  with  a face  expressive  of 
much  strength  of  mind  and  common  sense.  She  was 
seated  on  a cotton  comfortable  on  the  floor,  but  one  of 
the  luxurious(?)  furnishings  of  the  room  was. -a  chair 
for  each  guest.  The  apartment  was  low  and  unin- 
viting, opening  off  the  dusty  courtyard,  the  only  hand- 
some thing  in  it  being  a mantel  set  with  bits  of  mirror 
in  geometrical  designs.  This  princess  has  the  munifi- 
cent allowance  of  ten  rupees  (about  $4)  per  month, 
with  which  she  maintains  her  princely  state.  Spiced 
tea  in  dainty  cups  was  served,  while  one  of  the  younger 
princesses  squatted  at  the  feet  of  the  missionary  ladies 
and  read  the  lessons  which  they  had  taught  her.  The 
older  princess  said  that  if  her  sisters  would  spend 
more  time  reading  the  Koran  it  would  be  better  for 
them.  She  herself  is  a natural  artist,  and  showed  us 
a pen  sketch  of  her  royal  papa  smoking  his  hookah, 
which  is  said  to  be  a very  correct  likeness ; but  being  ‘ 
a devout  Mohammedan,  the  father  disapproves  of  his 
daughter’s  talent  as  being  a breach  of  the  command- 
ment, “ Thou  shalt  not  make  any  likeness  of  any  thing 
that  is  in  heaven  above  or  in  the  earth  beneath,”  &c. 

The  foreign  visitor  wore  a hat  upon  which  was  a 
bird,  which  was  duly  examined  with  the  exclamation, 
“and  it  has  an  animal  on  it!”  then  the  arrangement 
/ of  the  hair  was  commented  upon.  The  needlework  of 
the  ladies  was  displayed  and  admired;  also  their 
dainty  little  slippers  in  gold  embroidery.  After  a. 


204 


ceremonious  adieu  departure  was ' made,  passing  a 
dilapidated  old  carriage  in  the  outer  court,  which 
serves  as  a royal  equipage  on  state  occasions.  A cus- 
todian at  the  door  was  reposing  in  the  glaring  sun 
upon  a bare  charpoy,  with  heels  high  in  air,  who  never 
budged  or  blinked  as  we  passed  out. 

Our  next  visit  was  to  a lady,  a relative  of  this  royal 
Cabool  family.  We  entered  the  courtyard  by  a small 
ante-room,  which  had  been  occupied  by  goats.  The 
lady  of  this  house  was  the  melancholy  mother  of  six 
daughters,  and  two  others  had  happily  died  young. 
She  'was  deploring  her  sad  lot,  which  the  spirit  of 
American  womanhood  resented,  so  we  proceeded  to 
compliment  her  upon  her  good  fortune,  saying,  ‘'you 
are  rich  in  daughters  and  I have  none,”  when  she  rose 
and  kissed  the  cheek  of  her  guest  in  sympathy  wdth 
her;  an  unusual  demonstration,  we  were  afterward 
assured.  The  trousseau  of  one  of  the  daughters  soon 
to  be  married  was  displayed — dainty  chuddas  of  trans- 
parent cardinal  and  gold,  and  a skirt  of  cardinal  silk 
to  match,  which  were  very  becoming  to  her  dark 
beauty.  This  w’oman,  instead  of  loading  her  daughters* 
ears  with  crude  ornaments,  spends  her  money  in  mak- 
ing her  house  beautiful.  The  luxuries  thus  secured 
consisted  of  a carpet,  a table,  a German  student  lamp,, 
a waiter  with  huge  red  roses,  and  a Yankee  clock! 
If  our  ladies  in  America  would  send  to  the  Zenana 
missionaries  the  pictures  and  articles  of  adornment  of 
which  almost  every  house  has  a surplus,  they  would 
greatly  aid  in  securing  to  them  a wel'^ome,  and  would 
bring  new  thoughts  and  aspirations  to  those  secluded 
women,  who  have  so  little  in  their  conditions  and  sur- 
roundings to  inspire  them  to  higher  aims.  Many  of 
them  never  go  outside  the  courtyard,  are  unfamiliar 


20o 


with  the  commonest  obj  ects  in  the  street,  do  not  know 
what  a river  is,  and  scarcely  what  a tree  would  be,  as 
the  courtyards  are  often  bare  and  dusty,  without  a 
suggestion  of  green. 

Pretty  cards  and  pictures  and  the  thousand  dainty 
devices  of  tasteful  women’s  fingers  would  be  w'orth  more 
than  their  weight  in  gold  to  these  w'eary  women  pining 
in  seclusion.  It  is  said  that  in  the  Province  of  Bengal 
the  women  are  anxious  to  learn  and  gladly  pay  the 
zenana  visitors  of  the  Church  Missionary  Society 
liberally  for  teaching  them,  not  that  they  care  for 
Christian  teaching,  but  for  the  novelty  and  interest  it 
brings  with  it.  Many  of  these  women  in  India  are 
intelligent  and  sensible  and  chafe  under  the  narrow- 
ness of  their  lives,  despising  the  senseless  chatter  and 
constant  bickerings  of  the  women  with  whom  they 
spend  their  lives.  To  such  the  zenana  visitor  is  an 
angel  of  blessing  and  the  doors  of  Hindu  and  Moham- 
medan homes  are  opening  to  their  coming.  The  great 
need  of  India  is  the  education  of  the  women,  for  as 
long  as  they  are  bigoted  and  ignorant  so  long  will 
heathenism  remain  supreme,  for  women  are  a power 
even  in  India.  The  men  are  fast  losing  their  ances- 
tral faith,  and  if  they  do  not  embrace  Christianity  be- 
come infidels.  If  there  were  more  of  the  influence 
of  Christian  mothers  and  wives  the  fields  of  India 
would  soon  be  white  for  the  harvest  of  Christian 
reaping. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 


WOMAN  IN  INDIA. 

INDIA  cannot  be  redeemed  from  her  degradations 
until  the  women  of  the  land  are  elevated.  Any 
thing  that  men  can  do  will  have  no  foundation.  All 
progress  must  radiate  from  the  family.  As  Tennyson 
has  said,  “ The  woman’s  cause  is  man’s ; they  rise  or  sink 
together,  dwarfed  or  Godlike,  bond  or  free.”  There 
is  a homely  Saxon  saying,  true  as  lowly,  “that  a 
woman  can  throw  out  with  a spoon  through  the 
window  faster  than  man  can  pitch  in  through  the 
door  with  a shovel.”  In  India  all  forward  movement 
is  crippled,  minimized  or  destroyed  by  the  ignorance, 
supeistition  and  degradation  of  women.  This  is  not 
necessarily  so,  for  Indian  women  have  natural  abili- 
ties and  virtues,  but  all  thes^  are  ruined  in  the  very 
bud  of  promise  by  enslaving  environments.  They 
are,  considering  their  long  ages  of  enslavement,  beau- 
tiful women,  with  wonderful  eyes,  lithe  figures  and 
graceful  motions.  If  their  minds  were  imbued  with 
Christian  principles  and  culture,  and  if  they  could  * 
live  as  the  equals  of  their  husbands  and  have  the 
advantages  which  cultured  association  gives  European 
women,  the  fables  of  the  ancients  about  their  wonder- 
ful beauty  would  be  realized.  It  is  a constant  marvel 
how  much  of  purely  innate  ,taste  and  passionate  love 
of  beauty  survives  all  the  exhaustions  of  their  long 
moral  enslavement.  If  their  ignorance  and  want  of 
noble  ambitions  were  confined  to  themselves  alone  their 
case  would  be  distressing,  but  they  fetter  their  hus- 

206 


207 


bands  and  suppress  their  rising  aspiration  of  progres- 
sive manhood.  Professor  Chuckerbutty,  a native,  in 
his  first  lecture  delivered  in  the  Medical  College  in  Cal- 
cutta said,  that  “ of  all  the  great  problems  to  be  solved 
in  India  the  woman  question  is  undoubtedly  the  great- 
est. It  is  useless  to  hide  from  ourselves  the  fiict  that 
the  degraded,  condition  of  the  women  of  India  is  the 
foundation  of  numerous  social  evils.”  There  is  not 
power  enough  in  man  to  .rise  above  the  domination  of 
an  ignorant  and  vulgar  w’oman.  He  cannot  lift  her 
up,  but 'she  exercises  over  him  a constant  downward 
gravity.  Another  eminent  native  editor  speaks  of 
man’s  bondage  and  hopelessness  in  these  depressing 
sentences: 

“ The  educated  native  is  nowhere  so  miserable  and 
crest-fallen  as  in  his  home,  and  by  none  is  he  so  much 
embarrassed  as  by  his  female  relations.  His  private 
life  may  be  said  to  be  at  antipodes  with  his  public 
career.  A Demosthenes  at  Debating  Societies,  whose 
words  tell  as  peals  of  thunder,  a Luther  in  his  public 
protestations  against  prevailing  corruptioirs,  a thor- 
ough-going Cockney  in  ideas  and  tastes,  he  is  but  a 
timid,  crouching  Hindu  in  his  home,  yielding  unques- 
tioning submission  to  the  requisitions  of  a supersti- 
tious family.  . . Between  husband  and  wife  there 

there  can  be  no  rational  conversation,  no  hearty  ex- 
change of  thoughts  and  sympathies,  no  co-operation  • 
in  really  useful  undertakings,  and  even  no  companion- 
ship beyond  the  pale  of  the  zenana.  The  only  way 
of  patching  up  a temporary  and  nominal  reconcilia- 
tion is  for  the  husband  to  forget  hfe  scholarship,  and 
lay  down  his  crotchets  of  reform,  and  assume  the  atti- 
tude of  complete  orthodoxy  and  foolish  ignorance. 
Surely  an  educated  husband  and  an  illiterate  wife 


208 


cannot  possibly  agree,  and  so  long  as  the  latter  gov- 
erns the  household  according  to  her  orthodox  preju- 
dices the  nation  cannot  make  any  real  advancement.” 

This  debasement  of  the  women  came  through  the 
Mohammedan  invasion,  the  curse  of  curses  wherever 
it  has  planted  itself,  the  monumental  destroyer  of  man 
and  nature ; all  things  have  been  defiled,  perverted  and 
distorted.  Before  the  Mohammedan  invasion  Hindu 
women  had  about  as  much  liberty  as  the  average 
modest  European  woman. 

“The  Kamayana  and  Mahabharata  contain  many 
allusions  to  women  appearing  in  public.  In  the 
Raghuvansa,  a king,  Dilipa,  travels  with  his  queen 
in  an  open  carriage,  both  of  them  asking  questions  of 
the  people  they  meet  about  road-side  plants.  In  the 
Mahavira  Charita  princes  and  princesses,  entire  stran- 
gers to  each  other,  are  openly  introduced  in  the  same 
company. 

“The  Koran  permits  polygamy  and  divorce.  Mar- 
riage can  be  dissolved  at  any  time  at  the  simple  will 
and  fancy  of  the  husband.  A traveller  met  an  Arab, 
not  an  old  man,  who  had  been  married  fifty  times. 
According  to  Mohammedan  law,  a man  can  look 
upon  any  married  woman  (near  relatives  excepted)  as 
within  his  reach  by  marriage,  the  present  husband 
consenting.  Every  married  woman  can  become  the 
lawful  wife  of  any  man  she  may  captivate,  if  she  can 
persuade  her  husband  to  pronounce  a divorce.  Mo- 
hammedans are,  therefore,  compelled  to  keep  their 
wives  closely  confined,  or  the  foundations  of  society 
would  be  broken  up. 

“The  Musselman  rulers  of  India  took  into  their 
zenanas  beautiful  Hindu  women,  even  although  mar- 
ried. To  avoid  such  outrages,  women  were  kept 


209 


within  doors  or  carefully  veiled.  In  course  of  time 
the  Hindus,  in  the  seclusion  of  women,  acted  like 
Mohammedans.” 

This  tyranny  has  grown  into  absolute  seclusion 
throughout  India.  It  has  established  an  order  or 
caste  of  dirt,  ^ye  have  been  told  no  woman  who  con- 
siders herself  chaste  will  wear  clean  clothes.  She 
gives  her  garments  to  her  servants  to  wear  until  they 
are  soiled.  Clean  clothes  belong  to  and  mark  the 
vocation  of  the  prostitutes,  who  become  so  by  being 
married  to  the  gods,  and  are  the  common  associates 
of  all  who  frequent  the  temple.  Their  clothes  are 
immaculately  clean,  as  are  the  garments  of  all  this 
class  throughout  India.  The  hostility  to  learning 
among  women  arises  from  the  same  source,  only  this 
class  of  girls  were  taught  to  read  and  write ; so  learn- 
ing became  the  badge  of  shame,  and  they  too  were 
accomplished  in  music.  Hence  the  missionaries  have 
been  met  by  this  sense  of  outraged  virtue  in  their  at- 
tempts to  teach  the  women  of  India  to  read.  It  is 
not  within  the  bounds  of  decency  to  describe  the 
loathsome  degradation  of  this  temple  prostitution. 

Dr.  Henry  J.  Bruce,  of  the  Maratha  Mission  of  the 
American  Board,  one  of  the  most  learned,  fearless 
and  faithful  missionaries  in  India,  in  an  interesting 
book  entitled  “Letters  From  India”  has  given  a case 
which  will  throw  light  on  this  subject.  He  had  in 
his  station  school  at  Kahuri  two  little  native  girls, 
whose  names  were  Bhagoo  and  Kivai.  They  had  at- 
tended the  mission  school  for  years  and  had  made  hope- 
ful progress,  and  seemed  to  be  in  the  way  to  the  king- 
dom of  heaven,  were  impressible  and  showed  consid- 
erable firmness  in  their  Christian  convictions,  and  the 
teachers  had  determined  to  admit  them  into  the 


210 


church.  But  Bhas-oo  turned  back  to  the  deo^rada- 
tions  of  heathenism,  while  her  companion  went  for- 
ward. The  causes  ot  this  departure  are  what  we  are 
concerned  with  in  our  present  relations  to  the  subject. 
Bhagoo’s  mother  had  made  a promise  to  her  god,  when 
Bhagoo  was  but  a babe,  desiring  a son,  without  which 
an  Hindu  woman  feels  in  disgrace,  if  not  accursed, 
that  if  he  would  grant  her  request  she  would  conse- 
crate her  daughter  to  the  temple  service,  one  of  life- 
long prostitution,  in  which  she  becomes,  in  heathen 
phrase,  a Murali,  or  wife  of  the  god. 

Thousands  of  these  unfortunates,  given  by  their 
parents  at  birth  or  in  childhood,  are  forced  when  they 
arrive  at  womanhood  into  this  appalling  servitude. 
These  parents  were  quite  willing  that  their  daughter 
should  go  to  school  and  learn  to  read  from  the  mis- 
sionaries, which  would  fit  her  for  this  ultimate  service 
to  which  she  had  been  consecrated  in  babyhood.  But 
when  they  heard  that  she  had  determined  to  be  a 
Christian  it  woke  all  the  resistance  of  their  supersti- 
tious souls.  The  mother  threatened  the  life  of  her 
daughter  if  she  ever  could  get  her  hands  on  her. 
But  the  daughter  stayed  on  the  mission  premises. 
Her  mother  said,  “ Come  home  and  we  wdll  have  you 
married  to  the  god  Khandoba  in  a private  way.’’  But 
the  proposition  found  no  favor.  Afterward  she  left 
the  mission  and  went  far  back  into  heathen  ways 
until  she  was  fifteen,  the  age  to  be  given  to  the  abom- 
inable service. 

“ The  mother  said  the  time  had  come  to  make  pre- 
paration to  take  the  girl  to  Ahmednuggur,  intending, 
after  having  performed  the  necessary  rites,  to  leave 
her  there  in  the  temple  of  Khandoba.  When  Bhagoo 
saw  that  her  mother  was  in  earnest,  she  was  roused 


211 


from  her  lethargy,  and  remonstrated,  saying: — ‘Do 
not  lead  me  in  the  way  of  destruction.  I will  not  be- 
come a Murali.  I am  going  to  be  a Christian.’  But 
the  parents  would  not  listen  to  her.  They  replied 
that  they  had  promised  her  to  Khandoba,  and  that 
she  must  become  a Murali.  She  would  not  consent, 
and  they  therefore  began  beating  her.  She  then  ran 
away  from  them,  and  as  we  were  absent  from 
Rahuri  at  that  time,  she  went  to  the  pastor’s  house. 
Her  mother  rushed  after  her  into  the  house  and 
caught  her,  and  gave  her  the  most  wicked  abuse. 
‘ If  you  will  not  become  a Murali,’  she  said,  ‘ I will 
kill  you;’  and  suiting  her  action  to  her  word,  she 
seized  a large  stone  to  beat  her  on  the  head,  but  some 
bystanders  caught  it  out  of  her  hand.  The  Hindus 
have  a proverb,  ‘ Like  god,  like  worshipper ;’  and  here 
we  see  how  the  worship  of  a god,  characterized  as  im- 
pure and  sensual,  can  crush  out  all  the  finer  sensibili- 
ties of  woman’s  nature.  The  Satanic  expression  on 
that  woman’s  countenance  is  photographed  on  my 
mind  to  this  day>  and  I think  I never  saw  its  equal! 
She  carried  out  the  heathen  idea  of  consecration,  but 
she  sacrificed  to  devils,  and  received  her  reward. 
The  girl  went  before  a government  officer  and  openly 
declared  her  purpose  to  be  a Christian.  She  told  him 
that  her  friends  were  using  violence  to  make  her  be- 
come a Murali,  and  begged  him  not  to  deliver  her 
into  their  hands.  Upon  this  the  officer  called  the 
parents  and  told  them  that  the  girl  had  sufficient  un- 
derstanding to  act  according  to  any  religion  she  pre- 
ferred ; and  that  if  they  troubled  her,  or  forbade  her 
acting  according  to  her  wishes  in  this  matter,  they 
would  themselves  be  punished.  They  were  thus  com- 
pelled to  desist  from  their  endeavors.” 


212 


The  marriage  question  lies  over  the  possibilities  of 
the  regeneration  of  India — superstition  directs  all 
such  associations.  Astrology  reigns  supreme  in  every 
relation  that  reaches  out  into  the  future.  Horoscopes 
of  the  boy  and  girl  are  given  by  the  astrologer.  After 
much  professional  humbuggery,  of  which  they  are 
masters,  the  astrologer  says  it  will  not  work  because 
the  horoscope  of  the  boy  shows  that  he  will  not  live, 
and  the  parents  of  the  girl  see  all  the  curses  of  a child 
widowhood  settling  down  like  vultures  upon  them. 
The  boy’s  horoscope  shows  that  he  is  destined  to  lose’ 
his  first  wife  and  to  marry  a second ; and  the  effects 
of  this  have  been  seen  far  away  from  India.  Even 
wives  in  America  object  to  an  early  prospect  of 
heaven  if  it  is  to  give  some  other  woman  a chance  for 
their  husband.  No  charity  has  been  heard  of,  to  this 
date,  so  large-hearted  and  unselfish. 

The  horoscope  of  the  girl  shows  by  the  manipula- 
tions of  the  astrologer  that  she  will  not  have  a father- 
in-law  nor  mother-in-law,  and  this  means  the  demise 
of  the  boy’s  parents  soon  after  the  marriage,  and  the 
poor  girl  will  have  no  mother-in-law,  a calamity  that 
might  be  borne  in  America,  but  is  a terrific  disaster  in 
India,  and  this  will  be  a glint  of  comfort  to  this  much 
depreciated  class  in  our  country  that  there  is  one 
country  where  the  absence  of  a mother-in-law  is  a grief. 
The  parents  of  the  boy  or  of  the  girl,  not  relishing 
the  prospect  of  an  early  departure,  negotiations  are 
given  up.  So  a new  start  is  made  in  the  duty  of  hus- 
band hunting  under  most  trying  circumstances,  because 
if  the  former  failures  are  known  nobody  will  have 
her,  and  the  parents  of  the  boy  fare  no  better,,  for 
nobody  will  have  him,  so  the  parties  are  left  stranded 
between  the  “ devil  and  the  deep,  deep  sea.”  Of  many 
examples  two  will  suffice : 


213 


“ A rich  Brahmin  in  the  Fort  wanted  a wife  for  one 
of  his  sons;  but  he  had  to  write  letters  without  end; 
and  to  search  ior  jive  years  in  about  a hundred  famlies 
before  he  could  find  a girl  whose  natal  star  would  fulfil 
the  required  conditions.  Another  respectable  man  in 
Mysore  had  three  daughters.  For  one  daughter  he 
searched  for  a husband  about  two  years  in  twenty-two 
tamilies ; for  the  next  he  made  inquiries  three  years ; 
and  for  the  last  one  he  has  been  writing,  looking  and 
seeking  in  vain  for  the  last  four  years.  A Brahmin, 
thirty-two  years  of  age,  wandered  about  for  more  than 
two  years  with  five  hundred  rupees  in  his  hand  look- 
ing for  a wife ; and  he  has  now  only  succeeded  in 
obtaining  a girl  of  four  years  old  by  giving  a dowry 
of  seven  hundred  rupees.” 

The  animals,  too,  must  be  consulted  om  the  subject 
of  marraige,  not  bipeds  as  sometimes  occurs  in  other 
places,  but  mammalians,  reptilians,  &c.  Crows  stand 
high  in  the  annals  of  Hindu  philosophy  as  seers,*  and 
prophesy  for  the  direction  and  comfort  of  their  wards. 
The  lizard  also  bears  a high  reputation.  An  In- 
dian treatise  on  divination  says  that  if  a lizard  Tall 
on  the  head,  it  prognosticates  death  ; if  on  the  right 
ear,  good ; on  the  left  ear,  evil ; on  the  nose,  disease ; 
on  the  neck,  joy,  &c.  Its  chirp  is  also  a certain  sign. 
There  is,  however,  a Tamil  proverb,  “ The  lizard  which 
was  the  oracle  of  the  whole  village  has  fallen  into  the 
broth  pot.” 

The  ass  holds  an  eminent  place  in  directing  life  in 
India ; nor  is  that  country  solitary  in  the  ways  of  the  na- 
tions in  this  respect,  with  some  slight  differences,  hardly 
noticeable.  If  in  India  an  ass  bray  in  the  east,  suc- 
cess will  be  delayed  in  the  south-east,  this  has  occurred 
even  in  our  own  country,  showing  national  paral- 


214 


lelisms  the  world  over.  The  second  fact  concerning  the 
place  of  the  ass  in  omenology  is  that  if  he  bray  in  the 
east,  it  forbodes  death  in  the  south.  It  denotes  gain 
of  money  in  the  south-west,  good  news  in  the  west. 
We  know  in  the  line  of  parallelisms  such  brayings 
have  been  made  in  our  country  in  the  south-east,  but 
whether  effects  according  to  Indian  ideas  have  taken 
place  in  the  south,  south-west  and  west,  we  must  await 
further  intelligence. 

The  mother-in-law  in  India  is  the  greatest  institu- 
tion of  the  Empire.  She  rules  every  thing.  The  sons 
never  leave  home,  so  the  daughter-in-law  comes  under 
the  rule  of  the  constitutional  Tartar  of  the  household. 
If  the  daughter-in-law  have  not  a son  she  finds  hers  a 
hard  road  to  travel.  But  when  she  is  the  mother  of  a 
son  she  is  set  up  mightily.  She  cannot  hold  her  own  with 
the  old  tyrant  at  the  foundation  and  apex  of  the  family, 
but  she  can  begin  bossing  operations  on  her  husband, 
who ’has  lost  all  control  by  the  incomer,  and  if  there 
are  any  sisters-in-law  or  her  husband  has  any  other 
wives  who  have  not  come  into  possession  of  male  babies, 
she  will  get  even  with  the  old  woman  by  making  their 
lives  a burden  as  hers  was  before  the  birth  of  a son 
promoted  her.  It  is  literally  true  that  India  is  ruled 
by  petticoats,  from  the  great  Empress  down  to  the 
tyrant  of  the  household.  Ko  man  can  hold  his  own 
against  even  one  woman,  but  a multiplicity  of  wives  is 
the  beginning  and  continuance  of  sorrows.  A man  in 
India  never  comes  whistling  into  his  household  ; he 
comes  home  with  his  plumage  down,  and  slips  in  as  if 
he  were  going  into  a wasj^’s  nest.  If  he  escapes  him- 
self, he  has  to  witness  conflict  between  his  mother  and 
some  or  all  of  his  wives,  which  makes  such  a racket 
that  he  wishes  he  were  dead.  Man  is  utterly  non- 
plussed in  a female  fight. 


215 


We  had  in  our  boyhood  a great  cur  dog  which 
would  never  permit  the  male  animals  on  the  farm  to 
fight ; he  would  run  in  between  belligerent  cocks  and 
part  them  instantly,  but  one  morning  two  hens  became 
greatly  enraged.  Nobody  could  understand  the  cause. 
The  old  dog  at  first  bristled  up  and  showed  his  teeth  and 
was  about  to  interfere  when  he  perceived  that  there 
were  neither  combs  nor  spurs  on  those  belligerent  heads 
and  legs ; immediately  his  bristles  fell,  his  lips  closed 
over  his  set  teeth  and  his  caudal  extremity  swung  low, 
he  looked  toward  his  master  to  help  him  out,  but  per- 
ceiving no  sign  of  sympathy,  he  left  the  premises 
for  two  days — that  dog’s  sj^irit  W’as  forever  broken. 
He  never  interfered  in  any  fights,  w^hen  he  perceived 
that  they  were  coming  he  turned  his  rear  to  the  com- 
batants and  made  for  a place  of  sure  retreat.  When 
a husband  in  India  comes  home  he  does  not  think  of 
staying  in  the  house  if  the  weather  will  possibly  per- 
mit his  presence  out-doors ; he  gets  his  mat,  if  he  has 
one,  and  spreads  it  in  the  corner  of  his  yard  fur- 
thest from  whore  his  wives  stay.  If  hi  has  no  mat  he 
spreads  himself  on  the  ground,  if  possible  near  a cocoa- 
nut  tree,  or  some  other  lofty  object  on  which  he  can 
rise  to  the  restful  sublimities  of  the  stars  of  evening. 
A thorn  tree  would  suit  him  best  for  a calm  and  sure 
retreat,  up  which  neither  his  mother  nor  wives  can 
come.  He  is  always  alert ; he  sleeps  erectiis  auribus. 

The  racket  begins  in  the  high-pitched  tones  of  the 
mater  familias,  the  woman  who  taught  him  his  first 
lesion  in  wholesome  restraint,  while  he  lay  across  her 
knee.  She  is  like  a hornet,  who,  if  he  feels  ordi- 
narily well  in  August,  can  break  up  a whole  camp-meet- 
ing, and  the  old  lady  attacks  number  seven,  it  may 
be,  who  is  a baby,  and  the  baby  wife  resists  in  kicks 


216 


and  shrill  notes.  The  parrot  joins  in  and  mocks  the 
head  of  the  house  and  pities  the  baby  wife.  Then 
number  one  comes  in  for  her  share  in  neglecting  her 
duties.  She  resists  and  shouts  to  her  husband  for  pro- 
tection, but  the  mother  dares  him  to  touch  her.  Num- 
ber four  says,  “ I would  never  take  a dare.”  and  as- 
saults his  manhood,  and  number  three  slaps  her  in 
the  face  for  her  disrespect  to  her  husband.  A lithe 
form  is  seen  moving  up  the  trunk  of  a cocoanut  tree, 
about  seventy  feet  high,  covered  with  rough  bark ; 
later,  half  way  up,  a rag  is  seen  fluttering  in  the 
zephyrs  that  has  been  left  behind  in  the  flight,  and 
is  all  of  that  husband’s  earthly  effects,  while  he  under 
the  plume-like  branches  sighs  for  ^^Xirvana”  which 
being  freely  interpreted  means  “let  us  have  peace.” 


AHARANPUR  is  a city  which  might  be  a copy 


of  an  equal  number  of  huts  of  any  other  Hindu 
city.  It  is  located  on  a plain,  is  regularly  laid 
out  and  filled  with  an  almost  naked  population 
eighty  thousand  in  number.  There  are  some  good 
public  buildings  and  a considerable'  number  of  showy 
European  houses.  It  is  a military  station,  and  has 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  parks  in  the  whole  East, 
with  delightful  drives,  cool,  and  fragrant  with  the 
odors  of  more  than  a thousand  flowers.  The  Botani- 
cal Gardens  are  kept  in  the  perfection  of  European 
landscape  art.  There  are  on  each  side  of  the  public 
drive  large,  square,  tomb-like  stone  monuments,  on 
which  are  inscribed  the  names  of  those  women  who 
gave  themselves  to  the  rite  of  Suttee,  not  willingly. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


SAHAUAXPUE. 


217 


but  by  the  continuous  “nagging”  of  their  friends,  re- 
proaching them  for  their  want  of  devotion  and  it& 
heroisms  until  life  became  a burden,  and  until  it  was  a 
question  of  time  whether  it  were  better  to  be  burned 
than  to  be  driven  out  of  existence  by  heartless  heathen 
superstition.  These  tombs  are  on  the  famous  Suttee 
grounds,  where  multitudes  have  suffered,  and  the  ban- 
yan trees  have  taken  them  in  their  arms  and  are  liter- 
ally lifting  them  aloft. 

The  only  other  object  of  interest  in  Saharanpur  is 
the  missionary  work  and  its  results.  The  first  plant- 
ing in  this  part  of  India  was  at  Lodiana,  and  the  first 
oflTshoot  from  the  parent  stalk  is  seen  one  hundred 
and  eleven  miles  south,  in  Saharanpur.  It  gives  evi- 
dence of  the  care  of  Christian  people  at  home,  and  of 
diligence  and  fidelity  in  the  foreign  field.  The  first 
thing  that  greets  the  eye  is  the  beautiful  compound 
and  its  provisions  of  taste  and  comfort — only  another 
form  of  mission  work.  It  pays  to  have  comfortable 
homes  for  the  workers,  in  preserving  precious  livps,  in 
giving  health  and  efficiency,  in  saving  the  expense  to 
the  Board  of  their  return,  when  worn-out  by  disease  in- 
evitably contracted  in  filthy,  ill- ventilated  native  houses. 
It  saves  lives  valuable  in  themselves,  but  valuable  in 
what  it  costs  to  prepare  them  for  their  work.  Besides, 
these  neat  but  inexpensive  homes  are  object  lessons 
to  the  heathen,  teaching  them  what  Christianity  does, 
what  it  will  do  for  them,  and  educates  them  into  as- 
piration for  something  higher  than  the  filthy  dirt 
hovel.  They  are  also  a testimony  to  the  fact  that 
while  the  churches  in  America  believe  in  sacrifice  for 
the  cause  of  Christianity,  the  reciprocity  is  not  all  on 
the  missionaries’  side.  The  salaries  of  missionaries  of 
all  churches ' range  from  eight  to  twelve  hundred 


218 


dollars,  and  their  houses  often  do  not  cost  over  two 
thousand  dollars,  for  in  the  Easi  property,  land, 
materials  and  labor  are  cheap,  and  the  prodigality  of 
natural  beauties  are  so  great  that  a house  no  better 
than  the  manse  of  the  home  missionary  will  have  the 
effect  of  a palace. 

People  are  obliged  to  have  more  servants  in  India 
than  they  would  choose;  because  of  caste  a servant 
will  do  but  one  thing,  and  more  than  this,  the  natives 
have  a contempt  for  an  American  or  European  who 
would  live  as  they  do,  and  would  impute  it  to  stingi- 
' ness  or  ill-breeding.  This  is  only  what  the  colored  peo- 
ple of  the  South  show  in  their  habitual  contempt  “for 
poor  white  folks.”  The  wages  of  five  servants  in  India 
are  about  what  is  paid  to  one  in  America,  and  they  pro- 
vide their  own  food.  The  men  and  women  who  started 
this  Saharanpur  mission  are  nearly  all  gone ; one  after 
another  dying  in  the  service.  While  we  survey  the 
place  of  loving  labors  one  has  fallen,  who  passed 
away  as  gently  as  the  parting  rays  of  an  Indian  sun- 
get,  Mrs.  Woodside,  whose  memory  is  as  fresh  here 
in  the  place  of  her  sacrifices  as  the  daily  opening 
roses  planted  by  her  own  hands.  She  can  never  be 
lost  out  of  the  history  of  Saharanpur — her  work  is 
the  halo  left  by  herself  where  she  moved  in  all  that 
>vas  helpful  and  blessed.  This  mission  must  be  iden- 
tified in  history  with  the  Reformed  churches  of  Phila- 
delphia. The  first  sent  out  were  in  obedience  to  its 
command  and  sustained  by  the  benevolence  of  these 
churches.  Such  were  the  confidence  and  fraternal  re- 
gard of  the  churches  of  the  same  original  faith  that 
they  worked  under  the  direction  of  the  Presbyterian 
Board  of  Foreign  Missions  until  the  union  of  both  in 
India,  and  of  most  of  the  Reformed  churches  in  Phila- 
delphia with  the  Presbyterian  Church. 


219 


In  1835  Revs.  Rogers,  Jamieson,  Porter  and  Camp- 
bell came  to  Lodiana  and  two  new  stations  were 
started — of  these,  Saharanpur  has  in  its  present  results 
become  the  most  influential.  It  is  now,  in  its  evan- 
gelical and  educational  work,  especially  in  preparing  a 
native  ministry,  become  a spangle  of  light  on  the  once 
vast  and  gloomy  plains  of  heathenism.  At  the  time  of 
our  visit  the  mission  was  carried  on  by  our  Penn- 
sylvania countrymen.  Professors  Wherry  and  Kelso, 
both  of  whom  extended  to  us  a genuine  mission- 
ary welcome.  There  is  within  the  historic  com- 
pound an  orphanage^  in  which  are  thirty-five  father- 
less children,  and  in  such  institutions  the  Church 
has  its  best  promises  for  serviceable  fruit  in  her 
future  work.  It  is  the  policy  of  the  gospel,  as  it  has 
been  of  the  Church  in  all  the  centuries  of  its  his- 
tory, to  care  for  the  orphan  and  to  house  the  young, 
and  heaven  will  show  the  wisdom  of  it  when  it  will 
be  seen  that  its  majorities  are  of  saved  children. 
As  one-half  the  race  dies  before  five  years  we  have  a 
ray  of  celestial  light  from  this  fact  on  the  dark  disk 
of  heathenism.  These  orphan  children  generally  turn 
out  well,  and  to  help  them  in  the  struggle  of  existence 
they  are  taught  some  handicraft  by  which  they  can 
sustain  life;  such  as  carpentering,  cooking,  cabinet 
making,  tailoring,  stone  and  brick  laying,  and  in  the 
compound  are  shops  for  this  purpose. 

One  of  the  most  formidable  hindrances  to  the  pro- 
gress of  the  gospel  is  caste,  and  the  boycotting  which 
comes  of  it,  by  ’which,  if  it  were  possible,  Christians 
would  be  starved  to  death.  There  ought  to  be  in 
every  mission  schools  for  imparting  practical  and 
useful  knowledge,  and  skill  in  manufacture,  so  that 
the  Christians  should  be  superior  to  the  heathen 


220 


in  all  occupations  and  have  a fair  chance  in  the  battle 
for  exikence,  for  many  Christians  are  as  sheep  among 
wolves  in  their  efforts  to  support  themselves  and  fami- 
lies. Superior  ability  and  skill  in  those  trained  in  the 
missions  would  secure  the  favorable  attention  of  the 
heathen,  which  out  of  mere  selfishness  would  be  bet- 
ter than  hostility,  and  would  lead  to  giving  their  chil- 
dren to  Christian  care  and  culture.  There  is  in  this 
compound  a little  spot  which  tells  the  story  of  how 
this  mission  has  lived  and  prospered  in  the  midst  of 
a crooked  and  perverse  generation.  It  is  where 
the  slain  in  the  moral  battle  are  gathered  together. 
The  w’ordless  plea  to  the  Church  from  these  dead  is  to 
fill  up  the  ranks  that  the  work  which  dropped  from 
their  hands  in  death  should  not  perish.  Of  the  num- 
ber was  the  name  of  the  Rev.  James  Campbell,  who  was 
at  the  beginning  of  this  mission  and  served  it  twenty- 
seven  years,  who  uttered  the  first  prayer  for  its  suc- 
cess, and  knew  nothing  else  except  toil  and  sacrifice 
for  it  until  he  had  filled  up  the  measure  of  duty  to  this 
benighted  land.  He  now  lies  under  its  cloudless  skies 
waiting  for  the  resurrection,  and  beside  him  lie  the 
remains  of  most  of  his  children,  whose  graves  tell 
the  sad  story  of  the  young  lives  which  must  be  offered 
in  the  martyrdom  through  which  heathenism  must  be 
brought  to  life. 

Near  by  a stone  had  a mute  but  eloquent  message 
to  the  living,  to  be  carried  to  the  far  away  homeland, 
a message  from  the  dust  of  Rev.  James  Craig,  which 
we  deliver  to  his  kindred  and  Christian  countrymen. 
He  served  the  Reformed  Church  seven  years,  short 
service,  but  all  the  time  he  had.  “We  live  in  deeds, 
not  years;  in  thoughts,  not  figures  on  the  dial.” 
As  we  turned  from  this  spot  other  lips  of  stone  spoke 


221 


the  name  of  the  Rev.  Joseph  Caldwell,  and  by 
us  to  his  kindred  and  countrymen.  But  the  graves 
of  more  than  twenty  children  beckon  the  pilgrim 
to  take  their  messages,  too,  from  the  dust  to  the 
happy  childhood  of  America.  But  lingering  with  the 
dead  is  not  the  work  of  the  living — the  living  are  call- 
ing and  the  time  is  too  short  to  stay  in  the  garden  of 
the  departed.  The  church,  by  the  way,  challenged 
attention  both  for  lessons  of  life  and  death.  The 
building  is  substantial  and  attractive,  with  its  arrange- 
ment of  the  so-called  “ punka”  still  up,  by  which  the 
congregation  is  gently  fanned  in  the  sweltering  heat. 
"We  thought,  if  such  an  arrangement  were  in  use  at 
home  would  not  the  people  be  greatly  assisted  in  their 
church  naps — it  would  be  altogether  too  luxurious 
except  where  existence  itself  is  almost  a burden.  This 
church  is  well-filled  on  the  Sabbath  by  both  natives 
and  the  English-speaking  people,  a considerable  num- 
ber of  whom  are  connected  with  the  East  Indian 
Railway. 

The  next  object  of  greatest  interest  was  the  Theo- 
logical School  or  Seminary,  for  at  the  very  heart  of 
hope  for  the  future  is  the  native  ministry.  The 
mere  Europeanizing  policy  will  always  be  inadequate. 
India  must  save  India;  the  people  must  be  saved,  not 
only  by  the  blood  of  Christ,  but  by  the  labors,  sac- 
rifices and  martyrdoms  of  their  own  sons.  Foreign 
teachers  can  only  prepare  the  way  and  make  the 
paths  straight ; they  can  be  teachers  and  leaders  in 
their  infancy  in  the  wilderness,  but  leaders  during 
this  interim  must  be  born  from  native  loins,  and  so 
the  preparation  of  a native  ministry  outruns  all  other 
issues.  This  hope  has  been  in  a measure  realized. 
Able  men  the  Church  has  wisely  chosen,  and  God  has 


222 


well  endowed  them  for  the  work  with  knowledge  and 
stimulated  them  with  the  inspiration  of  the  greatness 
of  the  church’s  need  for  such  a ministry  in  her  live- 
saving  service.  The  American  professors  are  Revs. 
Wherry  and  Kelso,  assisted  by  two  native  professors. 

The  students  appeared  well,  nearly  all  of  them 
being  of  mature  years,  thoughtful  and  devoted,  who 
listened  to  the  teachings  with  an  earnestness  which  is 
not  general  in  seminaries  at  home.  This  may  be  due, 
however,  to  the  fact  that  these  poor  men  have  every 
thing  to  learn,  while  the  home  students  always  know 
something  about  every  lesson  taught  or  lecture  deliv- 
ered. But  the  Hindumen  are  a serious  people  so  far  as 
any  expression  of  mirth  can  be  seen  upon  their  faces ; 
they  are  wonderfully  self-contained  in  manner,  though 
seriousness  does  by  no  means  imply  sanctification  of 
spirit  or  profundity  in  thought.  They  are  not  deep 
thinkers,  and  will  not  be  until  the  habits  of  cen- 
turies are  changed  and  their  souls  are  reborn.  There 
are  in  the  Seminary  thirty-five  students,  a good  show- 
ing for  the  future  native  ministry  of  India.  One 
class  was  reciting  from  Professor  Moffat’s  “Church 
History,”  condensed  and  eliminated,  to  suit  the 
needs  of  India.  An  invitation  was  extended  to  ex- 
amine them,  and  they  were  found  to  be  as  well  pre- 
pared as  the  average  of  those  presenting  themselves 
for  licensure  in  most  of  the  home  Presbyteries. 
Another  class  was  reciting  the  Greek  of  the  Epistle 
to  the  Hebrews  to  Professor  Kelso.  Professor  E.  G. 
McMaster  is  able  and  faithful,  standing  among  the  best 
of  the  native  creatures  and  teachers.  Several  of  the 
natives  have  taken  the  names  of  prominent  men  of  the 
past.  “ Robert  J.  Breckenridge  ” is  a very  moderate 
reproduction  in  mind  and  body  of  the  distinguished 


223 


original,  is  pious  and  very  gentle,  but  the  namesake 
of  “ John  C.  Lowrie”  is  a sca.np.  This  school  is 
worthy  of  the  entire  confidence  and  support  of  the 
Church.  It  ought  not  to  want  for  either  men  or 
means,  for  it  is  a centre,  if  not  the  centre  of  influence 
in  India. 

When  the  Church  can  send  out  a godly,  educated, 
earnest,  native  ministry  the  work  of  the  evangelization 
of  this  wonderful  country  is  half  done.  The  exhausted 
drudgery  of  preparing  a religious  literature  is  already 
accomplished  for  the  whole  empire.  The  day  schools 
in  the  city  under  care  of  the  mission  were  visited,  and 
found  to  average  well  with  similar  schools  in  other 
places.  There  is  also  a school  directed  by  the  wives 
of  the  Professors  for  the  education  of  the  wives  of  the 
students  in  the  Theological  Seminary,  fitting  them  to 
appreciate  the  work  of  their  husbands  and  to  be  help- 
ful to  them  among  the  native  w’omen.  Work  is  done 
in  this  mission  among  Europeans  away  from  home  and 
all  religious  belongings,  who  too  soon  lapse  unto  prac- 
tical heathenism.  There  are  many  of  these  in  every 
city  drawn  by  the  railway  and  civil  and  military  ser- 
vice. There  is  a special  work  among  railway  men  in 
religious  instruction  and  temperance,  conducted  by 
Rev.  Mr.  Morrison,  son  of  the  late  devoted  missionary. 
This  service  is  appreciated  by  the  men,  and  Mr.  Mor- 
rison is  a great  favorite  among  them.  One  of  the 
number  spoke  in  the  highest  appreciation  of  his  unsel- 
fish efibrts  to  save  the  men  from  the  curse  of  drink. 
There  are  six  Sunday-schools  in  connection  with  the 
mission. 

Taken  in  all  its  parts  this  mission  is  one  of  the  very 
best  in  India ; it  is  the  result  of  long  labor  and  much 
sacrifice  of  life  and  money.  It  is  a pleasure  to  assure  the 


224 


Reformed  churches  which  founded  it  that  they  have 
not  labored  in  vain ; that  it  has  gathered  for  them 
treasures  in  both  earth  and  heaven.  The  workers  are 
of  the  very  best,  learned  and  Christ-like  in  patience 
and  sacrifice,  hopeful  too,  for  this  is  no  place  for  the 
“ Mr.  and  Mrs.  Leaning,”  nor  for  the  “ Dicky  Dole- 
fuls,” whose  happiness  consists  in  feeling  badly  over 
things  in  the  present  and  prophesying  evil  for  the 
future.  The  Board  ought  to  be  as  careful  in  selecting 
both  constitutionally  and  conscientiously  hopeful  men 
and  women  as  those  who  have  piety,  for  it  can  hardly  be 
worse  for  the  work  to  have  hypocrites  outright  as  to 
have  men  and  women  using  their  religion  to  discour- 
age the  hearts  of  those  in  the  battle!  They  are  no 
worse  traitors  who  spike  the  guns  than  they  who  per- 
suade the  gunners  that  the  powder  is  wet  or  powerless. 

This  is  no  place  for  spiritual  dyspeptics ; successful 
workers  have  to  take  down  promises  as  a whole,  and 
leave  digestion  and  realization  to  be  the  work  of  life. 
There  are  some  names  at  home  represented  in  the  foun- 
dation of  this  mission  that  cannot  be  left  out.  There 
are  the  churches  of  Drs.  Wylie,  McCauley,  Starret  and 
others,  who  are  parted  fi*om  them  now  in  their  work, 
but  all  belonging  to  the  Presbyterian  household,  though 
separated  for  the  present  by  partitions  thin  enough  to 
see  and  hear  through.  But  these  are  still  known  as 
holding  like  precious  faith  and  like  obedience  to 
the  command  of  our  risen  Lord.  Nor  would  it  be  just 
to  let  slip  from  our  grateful  thoughts  the  service  of 
that  useful  elder,  George  H.  Stuart,'  of  Philadelphia, 
the  marks  of  whose  benevolence  are  seen  all  about, 
especially  in  the  sanitarium  property  so  useful  now. 
With  his  gifts  are  seen  also  those  of  generous  but 
now  departed  members  of  our  own  church,  James  and 


225 


William  Hogg,  whose  benevolence  began  in  boyhood, 
and  others,  too,  of  this  Reformed  Presbyterian  church 
as  worthy,  but  whose  names  are  not  known. 

About  forty-five  miles  from  Saharanpur  is  another 
centre  of  influence,  casting  its  benign  rays  from  the 
mountain  tops.  This  is  the  Woodstock  school  for  girls. 
It  is  the  trophy  of  the  labors  of  that  indefatigable 
worker.  Rev.  Mr.  Woodside,  and  of  the  benevolent 
ingenuity  of  the  ladies  of  the  Presbyterian  Church 
of  Philadelphia  and  vicinity,  through  whose  efforts 
$30,000  were  raised,  and  this  site,  the  most  advan- 
tageous in  all  India  for  the  purpose,  secured.  If 
the  generous  donors  could  see  the  result  of  their 
benevolence  in  the  form  of  a splendid  property 
bought,  and  improved  since  the  purchase,  and  the 
good  already  done,  and  the  promises  in  full  bloom 
they  would  rejoice  in  these  evidences  that  life  had  not 
been  in  vain,  nor  the  fruit  of  its  toils  useless.  The  local- 
ity is  a boon  to  those  workers  w^hose  deepest  priva- 
tion was  to  be  separated  from  their  children  almost 
from  childhood  by  thousands  of  miles,  if  they  were 
to  be  educated  at  all,  and  to  feel  all  the  fears  spring- 
ing from  the  dangers  of  youth  real  and  imaginary, 
or  the  sadder  alternative  of  seeing  their  children 
withering  unto  death  before  their  eyes,  imhelped, 
and  without  hope  on  all  their  future  horizon. 
This  was  more  than  bondage,  it  was  death.  Now 
this  burden  is  removed  by  a school  where  the  cli- 
mate is  cool  and  tonic  and  without  great  variation. 
From  this  height  the  extremes  of  both  the  torrid  and 
frigid  zones  clasp  hands,  and  the  tropics  salute  with 
fragrance  and  smiles  the  hoary  heads  of  the  Himalayas. 

This  school  is  under  the  care  of  the  accomplished 
wife  of  a missionary  gone  to  his  rest,  well  known  to 


22G 


all.  Its  success  under  Mrs.  Scott’s  management  is  the 
enthusiasm  of  all  India.  From  the  proceeds  of  the 
school  about  eighty  thousands  rupees  have  been 
expended  on  the  buildings,  and  still  the  demand  is  for 
more  room,  which  ought  to  be  supplied,  for  the  case  is 
urgent.  This  school  will  furnish  female  missionaries 
at  less  cost  and  better  fitted  for  the  work  than  can  be 
done  anywhere  else,  and  should  this  be  not  their  calling 
the  gospel  will  be  carried  into  the  homes  of  the  Eura- 
sians, the  most  neglected  people  in  India. 

It  was  vacation  and  the  pupils  could  not  be  seen,, 
but  one  hundred  and  twenty  boarders  were  heard  from, 
while  the  praises  of  the  institution  were  repeated  from 
friends  in  the  English  Church  Missionary  Society, 
the  Irish,  Scotch,  Methodists  and  Baptists,  and  from  the 
lips  of  men  and  women,  on  railway  trains,  in  both  civil 
and  military  life.  But  the  greatness  of  the  blessing  for 
girls  in  this  AYoodstock  institution  only  magnifies  the 
need  of  one  for  boys  in  this  same  cool  latitude,  where 
it  may  be  possible  to  study  nine  months  in  the  year. 
Boys  here  become  enervated  in  childhood  and  never 
have  vigorous  physical  or  mental  strength;  their 
morals  are  in  constant  danger  in  the  cities,  and  ought 
to  be  protected  by  the  best  climate  and  advantage. 
Their  parents  have  not  the  means  nor  friends  to  provide 
for  them  in  England  or  America,  nor  ought  their 
fathers  and  mothers  to  be  put  to  the  strain  of  separa- 
tion, to  sigh,  pray  and  cry  across  oceans  over  the  dan- 
gers that  may  be  coming  to  their  children,  when  ten 
thousand  dollars  would  provide  for  their  education  in 
the  Himalayas. 

There  is  another  station  which  is  worthy  of  atten- 
tion in  several  particulars,  and  referred  to  not  as  dis- 
criminating between  stations,  but  as  being  a represen- 


227 


tative  of  the  rest.  This  is  Dehra.  It  will  be  associated 
with  the  devoted  life  of  the  late  Dr.  Morrison,  whose  wife 
is  still  engaged  in  mission  work  at  Ferozepore,  (since 
deceased.)  The  first  fact  is  that  this  church  has  a native 
pastor  and  supports  him  to  the  extent  of  twenty-five 
rupees  a month,  and  is  working  out  the  difficult  prob- 
lem in  India  of  self-support.  The  whole  morning  con- 
gregations turns  itself  into  a Bible-class  for  the  study 
of  the  lesson.  This  mission,  occupied  by  Rev.  R. 
Thackwell  and  wife,  Miss  Geisinger  in  charge  of 
the  zenana  work,  has  succeeded  in  the  experi- 
ment of  dismissing  heathen  native  teachers  from 
Christian  schools.  Now  Christian  native  teachers  only 
are  employed  in  their  day  schools.  The  natives  not 
only  made  no  opposition,  but  on  the  contrary  when  it 
was  proposed  to  remove  a Christian  teacher  to  an- 
other school  a deputation  of  the  fathers  came  to  the 
school,  saying,  “If  the  Christian  teacher  is  removed 
we  wull  no  longer  send  our  children.”  There  is  i 
in  Dehra  a girls’  school,  teachers,  Misses  L.  M.  Pen- 
dleton, S.  M.  Wherry  and  R.  M.  Evans.  The  num- 
ber in  attendance  is  over  one  hundred,  a fair  propor- 
tion are  members  of  the  church,  so  that  nearly  all  the 
older  girls  are  Christians;  in  the  prayer-meetings 
often  seven  and  eight  girls  follow  each  other  in  prayer. 

The  older  girls  are  reaching  out  intelligently  after 
truths  in  a way  quite  surprising  to  their  teachers. 

One  Sunday  night  a young  woman  came  to  her  teacher 
saying  that  something  which  she  had  heard  that  day 
in  the  sermon  did  not  correspond  with  a chapter  of 
Drummond’s  “Natural  Law  in  the  Spiritual  World.” 


CHAPTER  XX. 


ANCESTRAL  ROBBER  CASTES  OF  INDIA. 

INDIAN  pests,  human,  mammalian,  insectiverous 
and  reptilian,  require  their  share  of  attention,  as 
there  is  no  India  without  them.  They  enter  into  its 
identity,  and  whether  or  not  make  their  presence 
and  power  felt.  This  subject  will  be  treated  from 
the  head  down.  The  human  torments  which  have 
distressed  India  are  innumerable.  Men,  not  creatures, 
curse  this  fair  garden  of  the  world.  “ Man’s  inhu- 
manity to  man  makes  countless  thousands  mourn.” 
In  no  country  on  earth  has  there  been  such  relentless, 
bloody  despotisms,  and  such  infernal  ingenuity  in 
conceiving  and  enforcing  their  requirements.  Secret 
societies  have  been  the  agents  of  her  destruction,  her 
humiliations  and  her  everlasting  servitude.  Society 
is  made  a very  hell  by  its  divisions  and  their  cruel- 
ties, and  these  have  grown  so  hoary  that  all  con- 
science has  been  lost,  all  resistance  has  ceased, 
and  the  most  atrocious  deeds  of  fraud  and  murder 
are  carried  on  with  the  sanctities  of  religion.  Thieving 
and  rascalities  in  property  relations  belong  to  every 
country.  These  evil  roots  run  down  into  depraved 
human  nature.  But  this  is  both  general  and  special. 
AV e shall  be  compelled  to  deal  with  something  graver 
than  the  organized  efficiencies  of  a general  depravity, 
growing  out  of  sinful  human  nature. 

The  magnitude  and  malignancy  of  this  evil  force 
may  be  seen  in  the  fact  that  in  India  there  are  more 
than  one  hundred  robber  castes.  Society  of  India 
is  like  a heap  of  sand,  each  vitalized  grain  a caste,  and 

223 


229 


each  caste  hostile  to  every  other.  There  are  castes  for 
thieving,  for  vengeance,  for  kidnapping  and  for  what- 
ever other  Satanic  purpose  niay  come  into  their  corrupt 
imaginations  or  cruel  hearts.  Each  has  strict  religi- 
ous observances  and  its  members  are  devoutly  strong  in 
the  belief  that  they  are  only  fulfilling  their  destiny  and 
the  destiny  of  others  and  doing  good  service  to  the  god 
they  adore.  They  talk  of  their  bloody  deeds  and 
show  their  gory  trophies  as  men  would  talk  of  acts  of 
charity  in  a prayer-meeting  in  Christian  countries. 
They  glory  in  their  exploits,  magnify  the  little  novel 
incidents  of  their  cruelties,  their  heroisms  in  getting 
rid  of  life  as  Americans  would  talk  over  the  sport 
they  have  had  in  a fox  hunt.  The  system  of  organ-  ' 
ized  robbery  and  murder  requires  religious  rites  and 
performances,  and  these  are  entered  into  before  an 
excursion  with  as  much  solemnity  as  the  sacraments 
of  the  Christian  religion  administered  to  Christian 
men,  just  before  going  to  the  front  to  a bloody  battle 
on  which  the  destiny  of  a nation  hangs. 

Formerly  after  the  usual  sacrifices  they  dispersed  in 
parties  of  thirty  or  forty  disguised  as  pilgrims  on  a peace- 
ful journey  to  some  far  off  shrine,  or  on  their  way  to 
the  services  and  obligations  of  worship,  their  prin- 
cipal weapon  being  a spear,  the  head  of  which  was  con- 
cealed, the  handle  being  used  as  a cane.  They  had  a 
secret  service  all  through  the  Empire,  through  which 
they  knew  where  the  wealth  of  the  people  was  hidden, 
and  were  in  possession  of  all  needed  information,  and 
thus  moved  for  an  attack.  This  w’as  always  under  the 
shades  of  the  night  and  arranged  to  carry  terror  in  all 
its  movements.  With  flaming  torches  and  glittering 
spears  they  rushed  upon  sleeping  inhabiants  of  the 
doomed  house,  and  either  frightened  them  into  power- 


230 


lessness  with  their  strange  yells  or  coldly  pricked  them 
into  nervous  frenzy  with  the^  sharp  points  of  their  spears. 
The  men  of  the  household,  who  might  have  resisted, 
were  overwhelmed  by  the  cries  of  the  women  and  chil- 
dren caring  only  for  their  lives,  who  would  hold  or  hide 
their  husbands,  and  with  the  hope  of  saving  their 
lives  would  tell  them  where  their  treasures  were.  So 
a man  realized  in  his  extremity,  if  he  had  any  courage, 
that  his  worst  foes  are  those  of  his  own  household,  and 
that  in  a multitude  of  wives  each  on  a hunt  under  the 
bed  for  the  concealed  robber  there  is  neither  peace  nor 
prosperity.  If  the  Dacoits  thought  that  all  goods  had 
not  been  surrendered  they  would  apply  torture.  Ears 
were  torn  out  by  the  roots,  hands  and  feet  chopped 
ofl  to  get  the  gold  anklets  or  the  jewelled  bands  from 
the  luckless  limbs.  A brutal  terror  of  this  kind  was 
not  published,  nor  did  communities  join  to  protect 
themselves,  this  mode  never  entering  Plindu  heads,  but 
the  whole  thing  was  kept  a secret  lest  a worse  thing 
might  come  upon  them,  for  the  Zemindar  or  landed 
proprietor,  and  the  head  man  of  the  village,  had  a 
*‘divy”  for  his  indifference,  inefficiency  or  co-operation. 

But  their  movements  were  not  confined  alone  to 
small  parties  of  thirty  or  forty,  sometimes  they  were  in 
force  sufficient  to  make  the  native  army  capitulate,  even 
when  led  by  British  officers.  The  Pindaiis  sometimes 
went  in  bands  of  twenty  thousand  horsemen,  clearing 
out  ‘whole  provinces.  Lord  Hastings  in  one  of  his 
contests  with  them  had  to  employ  one  hundred  and 
fifteen  thousand  men  and  had  his  hands  full  in  scatter- 
ing and  bringing  them  to  terms.  Another  of  these 
murdrous  castes  have  gained  historic  fame  from  their 
atrocities,  and  will  be  mentioned  here  because  more 
is  known  of  them  than  of  the  others.  Thugism  is  an 


231 


Indian  institution  peculiarly,  for  neither  the  idea  or 
reality  could  be  conceived  or  executed  anywhere  else. 

‘ Society  breeds  its  own  curses  as  the  generally  diseased 
body  its  own  ulcers.  Thugs  were  devotees  of  the 
goddess,  Kali  or  Devi,  and  were  fanatics  in  their 
religion.  This  caste. lived  in  influence  and  power, 
almost  supreme,  for  more  than  two  thousand  years  in  . 
India.  The  patronage  of  their  god  gave  them  immu- 
nity from  punishment,  and  their  coming,  whether  rel- 
ished or  not,  was  the  coming  of  a deity.  They  claimed 
that  the  goddess  Kali  gave  their  ancestors  waistband? 
with  which  they  could  destroy  first  demons  and  then 
men  by  strangulation. 

The  following  description  is  given  of  this  goddess: 

“ The  wife  of  Siva  has  several  names.  She  is  called 
Durga  as  having  overcome  the  giant  Durga  ; Kali  as 
black,  and  Bhairavi  as  terrible.  Often  she  is  called 
simply  Devi,  the  goddess,  or  Mahadevi. 

“ Calcutta  derives  its  name  from  Kalighat,  where  ' 
there  is  a noted  temple  of  Kali.  She  is  represented  as  a 
black  woman  with  four  arms.  In  one  hand  she  has  a 
weapon,  in  another  the  head  of  the  giant  she  has  slain, 
with  the  two  others  she  is  encouraging  her  worshippers. 
For  earrings  she  has  two  dead  bodies,  she  wears  a 
necklace  of  skulls ; her  only  clothing  is  a girdle  made 
of  dead  men’s  hands,  and  her  tongue  protrudes  from 
her  mouth.  Her  eyes  are  red  as  those  of  a drunkard, 
and  her  breasts  are  besmeared  with  blood.  She  stands 
with  one  foot  on  the  thigh  and  the  other  on  the  breast 
of  her  husband.  After  her  victory  over  the  giant  she 
danced  for  joy  so  furiously  that  the  earth  trembled 
beneath  her  weight.  At  the  request  of  the  gods,  Siva 
asked  her  to  stop,  but  as,  owing  to  her  excitement,  she 
did  not  notice  him,  he  lay  down  among  the  slain.  She 


232 


continued  dancing  until  she  caught  sight  of  her  hus- 
band under  her  feet ; ' upon  which  she  thrust  out  her 
tongue. 

“Largely  through  the  influence  of  Buddhism,  anL 
mal  sacrifice  were  discontinued.  At  present  they  are 
chiefly  offered  in  connection  with  the  worship  of  Kali. 
Human  sacrifices  were  formerly  offered,  and  it  is 
believed  that  they  have  not  yet  entirely  ceased.  In 
the  Kalika  Purana,  Siva,  addressing  his  sons,  says : — 

“ ‘ The  flesh  of  the  antelope  and  the  rhinoceros  give 
my  beloved  (Kali)  delight  for  500  years.  By  a 
human  sacrifice,  attended  by  the  forms  laid  down,. 
Devi  is  pleased  for  a thousand  years ; and  by  the  sac- 
rifice of  three  men  a lakh  of  years ; an  oblation  of 
blood  which  has  been  rendered  pure  by  holy  texts,  is 
equal  to  ambrosia.  Blood  drawn  from  the  offerer’s 
own  body  is  looked  upon  as  a proper  oblation  to  the 
goddess  Chandika.’ 

“ The  temple  of  Kali  near  Calcutta  at  great  festi- 
vals almost  swims  wdth. blood,  and  the  smell  is  most 
sickening.  The  people  bring  their  victims,  pay  the 
fee,  and  the  priests  put  a little  red  lead  on  its  head. 
When  their  turn  comes,  the  executioner  takes  the  ani- 
mal, fixes  its  head  in  a frame,  and  then  beheads  it.  A 
little  of  the  blood  is  placed  in  front  of  the  idol,  and 
the  pilgrim  takes  away  the  headless  body. 

“ Dr.  Rajendra  Lala  Mitra  says: — ‘ There  is  scarcely 
a respectable  house  in  all  Bengal,  the  mistress  of  whicK 
has  not  at  one  time  or  other  shed  her  own  blood  under 
the  notion  of  satisfying  the  goddess  by  the  operation.’  ” 

When  one  of  the  inspired  murderers  was  brought 
to  justice  by  the  English  he  would  exclaim,  “ I am  a 
Thug  of  the  royal  records,”  with  as  much  hope  and 
pride  of  its  saving  him  as  Paul’s  exclamation,  “I 


233 


was  born  free.”  “ I and  my  fathers  have  been  Thugs 
forty  generations,”  said  another,  as  if  he  would  over- 
whelm the  modern  hated  English  by  all  the  power  of 
antiquity. 

The  Thugs  had  their  boundaries  and  habitations. 
Villages  were  renowned  by  their  presence,  where  they 
conducted  themselves  with  tolerable  propriety  accord- 
ing to  Hindu  notions  of  good  behavior.  In  these  vil- 
lages they  left  in  perfect  security,  so  far  as  the  natives 
were  concerned,  their  wives,  children  and  effects  when 
they  went  off  on  a religious  excursion.  The  Thug  was 
a gentleman  of  first  order  at  home,  when  he  was  not 
religious  he  was  cultivating  the  soil  or  was  a land- 
lord employing  the  labors  of  others.  But  when  he 
concluded  to  be  religious  and  go  off  on  a pilgrimage,, 
all  knew  that  he  would  do  his  cruel  work  well.  He 
was  prohibited  by  the  Anglo-Indian  government,  and 
all  police  were  charged  to  be  on  the  watch  that  he  be 
corralled,  but  he  knew  a power  with  the  Zemindar  or 
head  man  of  his  village  and  its  police,  and  this  he  used 
freely,  so  he  was  in  partnership  with  all  that  could 
help  or  hinder  him.  After  he  was  gone  there  was. 
a tremendous  excitement  among  the  officials,  they 
scoured  the  country,  especially  in  the  opposite  direc- 
tion from  the  line  of  his  departure  to  throw  dust  in  the 
eyes  of  the  government. 

“Before  going  on  their  expeditions.  Thugs  made 
offerings  to  the  goddess,  and  carefully  attended  to 
the  omens  through  which  they  supposed  that  she 
made  known  her  wishes.  They  assumed  many  dif- 
ferent disguises,  and  played  many  difierent  parts. 
There  was  nothing  to  distinguish  them  from  ordi- 
nary travellers.  A party  of  them  would  accost  a 
wayfarer  going  homewards  from  a journey.  Cheerful 


234 


talk  and  song  would  win  his  heart,  and  he  would  tell 
them  freely  of  his  private  affairs,  of  his  wife  and  chil- 
dren he  was  going  to  meet,  after  long  years  of  absence, 
toil,  and  suffering.  Watching  a favorable  opportu- 
nity on  the  skirts  of  some  jungle,  one  of  the  Thugs 
would  throw  his  turban  cloth  round  the  neck  of  their 
victim.  Another,  seizing  the  other  end  of  the  cloth, 
would  draw  it  tightly  round ; whDst  a third  would 
seize  the  man  by  the  legs,  and  throw  him  on  the 
ground.  There  could  be  no  resistance.  The  work 
was  quickly  done.  The  body  was  then  stripped,  the 
property  secured,  and  very  soon  the  corpse  was  buried. 
The  Thugs  would  afterwards  kindle  a fire  beside  the 
grave,  and  feast  as  heartily,  sing  as  merrily,  and  sleep 
as  soundly  as  if  they  had  committed  an  act  of  the 
greatest  merit.  No  compunctions  visited  the  Thugs. 
An  English  officer  asked  one  of  them,  ‘ Did  you  never 
feel  pity  for  the  old  men  and  young  children  whoih 
you  murdered  while  they  were  sitting  quietly  by  you  ?’ 
‘Never,’  was  the  answer.  Such  was  the  confidence  of 
the  Thugs  in  the  protecting  power  of  the  goddess,  that 
they  believed  that  she  would  not  only,  if  religiously 
served,  shield  them  from  harm,  but  visit  with  her  wrath 
all  who  injured  them.” 

But  the  presence  of  the  English  has  spoiled  many 
gods  and  the  faith  which  the  multitudes  have  had  in 
them.  The  Saxon  is  a born  iconoclast  and  follows 
his  profession  with  overwhelming  demonstrations. 
He  has  knocked  Hindu  and  Mohammedan  beliefs 
hoary  with  age,  and  taught  both  that  antiquity  has 
no  legs  and  no  fists  and  can  neither  defend  itself 
nor  escape  the  violence  of  progress.  In  the  icono- 
clasms  of  Saxon  progress  in  the  Orient,  Kali,  and 
Kalites  alike  have  gone  down  and  Christian  progress 


235 


has  erected  her  throne  on  her  grave.  When  Thugee 
had  tormented  the  British  government  until  John 
Bull  got  red  in  the  face,  he  resolved  to  try  his 
strength  against  both  deities  and  men.  Lord  William 
Bentick  appointed  Colonel  Sleeman  to  give  it  a dose 
of  extinction. 

The  change  is  depicted  by  the  Maharajah  of 
Gwalior,  who  contrasts  the  present  with  the  condi- 
tion more  than  half  a century  ago  in  his  commen- 
dation of  the  success  of  the  British  Indian  govern- 
ment in  bringing  peace  and  security  to  India. 
“Within  fifty  years,”  says  he,  “when  Mahrattas  went 
from  time  to  time  from  Gwalior  to  the  Deccan,  small 
bodies  were  not  safe.  The  departure  was  an  epoch  in 
the  year.  Their  friends  parted  from  them  knowing 
that  they  had  to  set  out  on  a journey  of  danger — 
perils  through  Thugs,  robbers,  spoliation  and  black- 
mail levied  on  them  by  the  States  through  w’hich  they 
must  pass ; these  things  men  not  old  still  speak  of 
Now  all  pass  to  and  fro  without  danger  or  hindrance 
— the  poorest  traveller  feels  as  safe  as  the  richest — 
for  you  make  as  much  effort  to  protect  the  poor  as 
the  rich.  I never  put  myself  on  the  mail-cart,  unat- 
tended and  perhaps  unknown,  without  appreciating 
the  strength  of  your  rule.  It  is  a substance^  I leave 
Gwalior  without  apprehension,  and  my  absence  occa- 
sions no  distrust.” 

Let  those  who  rave  at  British  rule  in  the  world 
study  its  advantages  to  the  people  ruled  before  they 
give  rash  utteranc»e  to  their  malignant  fancies.  The 
blessings  of  good  rule,  hindered  by  ignorance,  race 
prejudices,  religious  degradations,  appear  at  every 
step  of  the  unprejudiced  explorer  throughout  that 
vast  continent  of  teeming  life.  The  English  govern- 


236 


ment  in  India,  with  all  its  faults,  mistakes  and  op- 
pressions, has  written  on  its  throne  the  hopes  and  pos- 
sibilities of  redeemed  India.  Facts  thrust  themselves 
against  prejudices  everywhere.  Even  in  English  com- 
pounds in  Calcutta  fifty  years  ago  the  outer  door  had 
to  be  locked  at  the  commencement  of  each  meal  to 
prevent  the  plate  from  being  stolen,  and  now  there  is 
less  crime  in  India  than’ in  England;  and  it  continues 
diminishing.  There  were  twenty-five  per  cent,  fewer 
criminals  in  jail  in  1882  than  in  1887,  notwithstand- 
ing the  increasing  population — population,  250,000,- 
000;  police,  137,377 — and  it  costs  a half  a cent  a 
person  monthly  for  protection  against  robbery  and 
murder. 

CHAPTER  XXI. 

ANIMALS  AS  RELATED  TO  HINDU  FUTURE  LIFE, 
ROM  human  torments  in  India  we  pass  to  a sur- 


vey of  animals,  reptiles  and  insects.  The  num- 
ber of  these  would  baffle  calculation.  There  is  no 
reduction  except  by  the  constant  warfare  they  make 
on  each  other,  for  no  native  of  India  would  kill 
one  of  them.  The  parasite  on  his  body  is  either 
endured  as  a necessary  counter-irritant,  or  his  heaven- 
appointed  destiny,  so  he  lifts  it  gently  away,  and  if  pos- 
sible will  give  it  a better  chance  by  putting  it  on 
the  missionary.  Nor  will  he  mean  any  thing  malig- 
nant in  the  transfer.  The  doctrine  of  the  transmigra- 
tion of  souls  affords  protection  to  all  animal  life.  This 
doctrine  has  been  referred  to,  but  to  explain  the  rela- 
tions of  human  and  animal  life  in  India  it  will  be  nec- 
essary to  speak  of  it  more  fully  and  in  more  philo- 
sophical form  as  a system  pervading  all  Hindu 


237 


thought.  The  Hindu  believes  that  the  soul  is  eternal 
and  that  it  passes  through  innumerable  births  until 
at  last  it  is  absorbed  in  Brahma.  A native  poet  has 
written  the  essence  of  this  philosophy  in  verse  : 

“ How  many  births  are  past  I cannot  tell, 

How  many  yet  to  come,  no  man  can  say, 

But  this  alone  I know,  and  know  full  well. 

That  pain  and  grief  embittered  all  the  way, 

There  are  in  nature  about  us  no  changes 
So  radical,  so  violent  and  so  painful.” 

A human  being  may  at  one  time  revel  in  the  de- 
lights of  Paradise,  and  at  another  he  may  hop 
as  a toad  from  under  the  teeth  of  a harrow  in  hell, 
at. one  time  he  may  be  a supreme  god  at  another 
he  may  live  in  the  heart,  head  or  entrails  of  a dog  or 
hog,  or  may  have  molten  lead  poured  down  his  throat. 
He  may  repose  on  a bed  of  marigolds  with  the  gods, 
or  writhe  on  a bed  of  red-hot  iron.  He  may  become 
delirious  with  pleasure  or  mad  with  pain.  Hence  the 
dread  of  continued  transmigration  is  the  one  haunting 
thought,  forever  wearing  away  his  consciousness  of  joy 
or  hope.  He  knows  nothing  of  escaping  his  change- 
ful destiny  so  fearful,  by  the  search  and  acquisition  of 
truth,  but  his  longings  are  all  to  the  end  of  breaking 
the  links  in  the  iron  chain  of  forever  repeated  exis- 
tences, which  are  spent  in  running  upward  and 
downward  scales,  before  he  can  reach  absorption 
into  pure  and  unconscious  Spirit.  Transmigration  is 
supposed  to  explain  why  some  are  born  rich,  others 
poor  ; some  healthy,  others  diseased,  &c.  All  in  this 
life,  its  feelings  and  actions,  its  joys^  and  sorrows,  its 
good  and  evil  deeds,  like  fruit  from  a seed,  are  sup- 
posed to  be  the  necessary  result  of  actions  performed 
in  a former  state  of  being.  If  a babe  agonize  in  pain 
the  Hindu  says,  “It  is  the  fruit  of  a former  birth.” 


238 


So  all  mysteries  are  resolved  in  the  conditions  of 
the  past,  the  unkind,  heartless  past,  which  annihilates 
no  sins  but  sends  them  down  to  the  future.  So  as  all 
animal  life  is  the  channel  through  which  sinful  men 
may  be  passing  for  the  mishaps  of  their  past  exis- 
tences, no  native  will  hurt  any  creature  if  he  can 
help  it,  and  if  he  does  it  by  accident  he  will  atone 
for  it.  He  will  not  only  avoid  injuries,  but  will 
render  aid  in  every  possible  way,  supply  their  wants 
and  make  them  happy  from  highest  to  lowest,  for  in 
them  may  be  the  soul  in  its  circuit  to  Brahma  of  some 
one  dear  to  himself,  or  he  may  in  his  next  state  of  exis- 
tence be  there  himself  for  his  sins  in  this,  so  India  is 
the  heaven  of  beasts,  birds,  reptiles  and  insects.  They 
live  better  than  men,  and  are  free  from  their  oppres- 
sions. The  stupid  question  of  the  disciples,  “Who  did 
sin,  this  man  or  his  parents  that  he  was  born  blind?” 
in  our  time  would  be  called  an  Irish  bull.  If  the 
man  was  born  blind  how  could  he  have  sinned  before 
he  was  born.  The  Hindu  would  be  at  home  on  this 
subject,  in  other  words  he  would  “ soar.”  Here  is  the 
pole  of  Hindu  philosophy ; his  answer  would  be  that 
the  man  was  suffering  from  the  sins  of  another  state 
of  existence,  that  his  soul,  like  John  Brown’s,  is  “march- 
ing on”  through  an  endless  series  of  births  until  the 
procreative  powers  wear  out  and  then  he  sinks  into 
Nirvana,  or  in  French  eternal  ennui,  or  in  Ameri- 
can is  “played  out.” 

Their  notion  is  that  all  souls  were  created  mil- 
lions of  years  ago,  so  they  have  their  “all  soul’s” 
day.  These  souls  have  been  gyrating  ever  since; 
sometimes  in  animals,  sometimes  in  vegetables  and 
sometimes  in  minerals.  The  soul  of  a man’s  ancestry 
may  be  in  a cabbage  head,  where  his  own  ought 


to  be  sometimes,  in  a dose  of  calomel,  anywhere 
it  can  get  or  be  driven;  in  these  several  conditions 
there  are  opportunities  to  acquire  merit  sufficient, 
after  a long  time,  to  get  into  the  human  form,  and  at 
the  first  death  the  soul  enters  into  another  body,  either 
a higher  form  of  manhood,  or  back  into  a blind  pup, 
a scarahceus  or  pumpkin,  according  as  his  deeds  have 
been  good  or  bad.  So  if  the  soul  gets  no  backsets 
and  holds  on  like  grim  death  to  the  body  until  it  has 
passed  through  8,400,000  changes,  and  after  these  mil- 
lions of  births  and  deaths  are  passed  comes  to  the  judg- 
ment and  the  final  reward  of  good  deeds  and  punish- 
ment for  sins.  But  if  the  reward  of  merit  through 
births  is  not  sufficient  to  open  the  gates  of  heaven  the 
soul  is  condemned  to  go  through  another  series,  8,400,- 
000,  and  if  this  wull  not  bring  it  out,  if  there  is  any 
thing  left,  it  goes  to  hell,  from  wffiich  after  the  proper 
purifications  are  attained  it  is  fired  up  into  heaven, 
where  it  remains,  according  to  the  latest  and  most  re- 
liable information  on  the  subject. 

It  will  now  appear  to  the  reader*  how  logical  and 
natural  the  worship  of  animals  becomes,  and  this  is 
universal  among  the  Hindus.  Nor  is  it  confined  to 
animals;  for  souls  may  be  in  vegetables,  in  min- 
erals, for  they  may  have  a kind  of  chemical  existence 
there.  The  most  unshapely  stone  to  be  found  will, 
on  accotint  of  its  ugliness,  be  chosen  and  made  a god 
by  setting  it  under  a tree  and  covering  it  with  red 
paint.  On  a certain  day  they  worship  a plant,  which 
is  believed  to  be  a goddess.  Placing  a painted  stone 
under  the  plant,  or  tree,  they  perform  the  marriage 
ceremony  uniting  the  god  and  goddess,  that  is,  the 
stone  and  the  tree.  The  traveller  will,  if  he  has  his 
eyes  open  and  his  inquisitiveness  quickened,  see  many 


240 


divine  objects  lying  about  loose  "whose  value  consists 
in  the  association  of  ideas.  By  the  roadside  can  be 
seen  a tree  covered  with  bits  of  rags  as  if  it  lived  to 
grow  rags.  That  ragged  tree  is  a she  goddess,  and  re- 
ceives from  the  multitudes  homage  in  rags  torn  from 
their  garments  too  scanty  to  hide  even  a patch  of  their 
lank,  skinny  bodies.  At  another  time  and  place  they 
can  be  seen  worshipping  their  oxen,  their  tools,  also 
whatever  is  used  in  making  a living.  This  is  one  of 
the  most  pitiable  and  hopeless  features  of  the  moral 
degradation  in  India,  and  most  so  because  their  educa- 
tion does  not  take  the  heathenism  and  animal  idola- 
try out  of  them. 

Civilization  does  not  lift  a native  a hair’s-breadth 
above  his  idolatries.  He  becomes  a dual  creature  by 
secular  education.  He  reviles  the  gods  and  bows 
down  to  them;  he  protests  and  servilely  accepts  the 
things  he  denounces,  and  offers  his  clearer  head  as  a 
servant  to  his  dark  heart.  Nothing  will  reach  idola- 
try but  Christianity ; all  that  he  learns  in  the  secular 
schools  he  hangs  as  brighter  garlands  on  his  soul- 
debasing  idolatries.  The  best  English  universities  of 
India  cannot  by  all  their  secular  teaching  get  a 
native,  however  scholarly,  beyond  serpent  worship. 
He  will  ridicule  it  when  he  is  well  or  prosperous,  but 
when  any  little  reverse  comes  down  he  will  go  on  his 
knees  to  the  first  cobra  he  sees.  There  is  a time  for 
serpent  adoration — a festival  in  their  honor  lasting 
through  days.  The  Rev.  Henry  J.  Bruce,  mission- 
ary of  the  American  Board,  says  that  in  a certain 
village  the  people  assemble  at  the  hole  of  a famous 
cobra,  which  is  one  of  the  largest  and  most  venomous 
serpents  in  this  country,  and  commence  pouring  their 
offerings  of  milk  and  grain  down  into  his  hole.  This, 


241 


of  course,  arouses  his  snakeship.  On  finding  that  he 
is  in  danger  of  being  drowned  in  his  narrow  quar- 
ters, he  comes  out  as  fast  as  belly  and  back  will 
permit,  and  raising  himself  to  the  dignity  of  a rep- 
tilian monarch,  extending  his  hood  out  from  his 
head  like  a pair  of  field-glasses,  he  takes  a recogni- 
zance in  force.  The  people  imagine  that  all  this  is  in 
appreciation  of  their  favors  and  begin  their  worship 
of  this  primal  form  of  the  devil. 

Zoolatry  is  one  of  the  deeply  rooted  institutions  in 
India.  The  Hindus  believe  that  there  are  eighty-four 
lakhs  of  diflbrent  species  of  animals  through  which 
any  man  may  pass — even  a flea  may  contain  the  soul 
of  some  person  who  was  a sage  or  saint.  This  we  can 
most  readily  believe  and  thank  transmigration  for  the 
levelation,  for  we  have  met  people  with  souls  so 
diminutive  in  respect  to  all  that  was  good  or  charita- 
ble, and  so  shriveled  by  abundance,  soured  by  selfish- 
ness, that  their  souls  might  live  in  the  same  shell 
with  a live  flea  and  have  as  much  sea  room  as  a polly- 
wog  in  the  Bay  of  Bengal. 

Among  the  jungle  tribes  tiger  worship  is  common. 
A tiger  may  attack  one  in  these  tribes  and  he  will 
make  no  resistance.  He  may  carry  away  his  children 
and  he  will  not  resist.  So  tigers  live  on  the  best  and 
are  only  exterminated  by  foreigners,  and  the  animal 
conquest  in  India  is  as  far  behind  as  the  human.  The 
thousand  headed  snake,  Shesha,  is  sometimes  repre- 
Bented  as  forming  the  couch  and  canopy  of  Vishnu 
while  sleeping  during  the  intervals  of  creation.  Ac- 
cording to  the  popular  ideas  earthquakes  are  caused 
by  the  shaking  of  his  heads.  In  many  places  women 
go  to  snake  holes  and  place  their  oflerings  of  milk  and 
eggs  <with  invocations  and  prayers. 


242 


The  monkey  is  also  a deity,  inverting  the  order  of 
modern  development  by  natural  selection.  In  India 
the  monkey  is  the  most  select.  He  is  a deity,  and 
man  has  departed  from  the  nobility  of  his  ancestor, 
and  if  he  would  get  back  into  deity  he  must  rise  to 
the  condition  of  the  monkey — monkey  worship,  like 
tiger  w’orship,  was  afterward  adopted  by  the  Brah- 
mins. In  some  parts  of  the  country  Hanuman  is  a 
common  village  god  and  is  said  to  have  been  the  son  of 
Pavana,  the  wind,  by  a monkey  mother.  He  had 
power  to  change  his  form  at  will,  hurl  rocks,  remove 
mountains,  put  the  sun  into  one  of  his  arm-pits  and 
dart  into  the  air  like  lightning.  Surasi,  a Rakshasi, 
tried  to  swallow  him.  Hanuman  stretched  himself  so 
much  that  her  mouth  was  an  hundred  yojanas,  then 
he  suddenly  shrank  up  to  the  size  of  a thumb,  darted 
through  her  and  came  out  of  her  right  ear.  “ Hanu- 
man’s  traditions  and  attributes,”  says  Sir  A.  Lyall, 
“illustrate  curiously  the  process  by  which  a mere 
animal  fetich,  dreaded  for  his  ugliness  and  half  human 
ways,  soon  rises  to  be  an  elfin  king  of  the  monkey 
tribe,  a powerful  genius,  and  latterly  emerges  into  the 
full  glory  of  divine  Avatar,  surrounded  by  the  most 
extravagant  fables  to  explain  away  the  Simian  head 
and  tail  which  have  stuck  to  him  through  all  his 
metamorphoses.” 

Some  animals  are  worshipped  for  their  usefulness. 
This  applies  especially  to  the  cow  and  bull.  Great 
religious  changes  have  taken  place  among  the  Hindus. 
One  of  the  most  remarkable  is  the  feeling  with  regard 
to  the  cow.  In  Vedic  times  the  Gomedha,  or  cow 
sacrifice,  was  common.  When  a person  died,  a cow 
was  killed  to  accompany  him.  The  flesh  of  the  cow 
was  freely  eaten.  A guest  was  called  Goghna,  he  for 


243 


'whom  a cow  is  killed.  It  is  pretended  by  some  that 
the  animals  were  not  really  killed ; but  the  Atharva 
Veda  gives  a list,  of  the  different  persons  who  were 
to  receive  the  various  parts  when  cut  up.  Some 
say  that  animals  were  always  restored  to  life  again ; 
but  this  must  have  been  done  after  they  were  eaten. 

At  present  the  idea  of  eating  beef  is  so  horrible  to 
Hindus  that  some  never  mention  the  word  in  the 
vernacular,  and  frequently  there  have  been  serious 
riots  on  account  of  the  slaughter  of  cows.  Among  the 
Sikhs  it  was  considered  a greater  crime  to  kill  a cow 
than  to  kill  a daughter. 

The  cow,  valuable  for  its  milk,  is  the  animal 
which  receives  most  worship  in  India.  There  is  an 
annual  ceremony  in  her  honor.  The  prayer  is  some- 
times offered : “ O,  mother,  be  gracious  to  us.  Bless  us 
with  a rich  harvest.  Let  our  lands  bring  forth  an  in- 
crease. We  are  thy  humble  servants.” 

The  ancient  Egyptians  were  especially  notorious 
for  animal  worship.  Bulls  received  the  most  pro- 
found veneration.  They  were  kept  in  splendid  tem- 
ples, they  were  adored  and  prayed  to  by  thousands 
during  their  lives,  and  at  their  death  they  were 
placed  in  huge  tombs,  while  all  Egypt  went  into 
mourning.  But  the  Hindus  have  reached  the  lowest 
depth  of  degradation  in  animal  worship.  The  very 
excrements  of  the  cow  are  sacred.  Her  urine  is  the 
best  of  all  holy  waters — a sin-destroying  liquid  which 
purifies  every  thing  it  touches.  Cow  dung  is  sup- 
posed to  be  of  equal  efficacy.  The  ashes  produced 
by  burning  this  hallowed  substance  are  of  such  a 
holy  nature  that  they  have  only  to  be  sprinkled'  over 
a sinner  to  convert  him  into  a saint. 


244 


The  bull,  useful  in  cultivation,  ranks  next  to 
the  cow.  Siva  is  said  to  perform  all  his  journeys 
riding  upon  its  back.  Vemana,  a Telugu  poet,  says, 
“Seeing  a bull  made  of  stone,  men  reverently  bow 
down  before  it;  seeing  the  living  moving  animal,  they 
flog  it.” 

Every  object  that  benefits  the  Hindu  and  helps 
> to  provide  him  with  a livelihood  becomes  for  the 
time  being  his/e^icA  or  god.  On  particular  days  the 
farmer  prays  to  his  plough,  the  flsher  to  his  net,  the 
writer  adores  his  pen,  the  banker  his  account  books, 
the  carpenter  his  tools,  the  woman  her  basket  and 
other  articles  that  assist  her  in  Jier  household  labors. 
The  Thugs,  who  murdered  travellers  in  the  name  of 
the  goddess  Kali,  worshipped  the  pickaxe  which  they 
carried  for  the  speedy  burial  of  their  victims. 

CHAPTER  XXII. 

CONCERNING  SNAKES  AND  OTHER  CREEPERS  AND 
CRA  WLERS. 

INDIA  is  prolific  in  death-dealing  agencies,  in 
the  forms  of  crawling  and  creeping  creatures. 
Twenty  thousand  people  die  in  a year  from  serpent 
bites.  No  antidotes  have  been  found  for  the  poison  of 
serpents.  The  British  government  has  ofiered  five  thou- 
sand pounds  as  a reward  for  such  a discovery,  but  as  yet 
without  success.  One  of  the  most  fatal  is  the  cobra, 
a serpent  not  usually  more  than  five  feet  long,  whose 
most  remarkable  feature  is  his  hood  in  the  position 
of  ears,  which  the  creature  moves  forward  when 
aroused,  and  esp3cially  when  ready  for  combat.  This 
hood  is  produced  by  its  remarkable  ability  of  dilat- 
ing the  back  and  side  of  the  neck  into  the  appearance 
of  a hood,  on  account  of  w’hich  it  takes  its  name 


245 


“Cobra  da  Capello,”  which  is  Portuguese.  Its  color 
is  a rusty  brown  above,  and  bluish  or  yellowish  below, 
and.  it  carries  a singular  mark  on  the  back  of  the 
neck  resembling  a pair  of  old-fashioned  spectacles, 
from  which  it  takes  the  name  of  the  spectacle  snake. 

The  Cobra  da  Capello  lives  on  lizards  and  other 
small  animals.  Fatal  as  is  the  bite  of  the  cobra, 
it  is  not  aggressive,  and  is  easily  killed,  but  it  will 
be  remembered  that  being  sacred  it  is  never  killed  by 
the  natives.  Its  bite  causes  death  in  two  hours,  and 
for  its  poison  there  is  no  antidote  known,  and  rarely 
do  any  bitten  recover.  It  is  a social  being  and  loves 
the  society  of  men.  Many  of  the  Hindu  houses  are  built 
of  mud,  which  when  dried  is  full  of  cracks  into  which 
serpents  come,  especially  in  rainy  weather,  when  all 
reptiles  are  peculiarly  lively,  and  the  cobra  will  turn  up 
anywhere  in  the  house,  raise  himself  a couple  of  feet, 
fix  his  hoods  and  hiss  to  warn  of  his  purpose;  some- 
times he  is  coiled  up  beside  the  baby,  sometimes  under 
or  on  top  of  the  rug  or  bed,  often  in  the  bath-tub  or 
folds  of  the  window  curtain,  as  it  suits  his  comfort  or 
fancies.  Most  of  his  deadly  bites  are  given  when  hos- 
pitality is  not  promptly  extended.  As  has  been 
stated,  he  likes  human  companionships  and  will  crawd 
up  and  lie  down  by  them  when  asleep.  Most  of  the 
fatalities  occur  while  men  and  women  sleep,  who 
lie  about  anywhere,  wherever  they  tumble  them- 
selves down,  for  they  have,  as  a class,  the  greatest 
disinclination  to  be  upon  their  legs.  At  night  they 
lie  down  on  the  ground — the  cobra  is  hunting  for  a 
warm  place  and  crawls  up  to  them  to  get  the  warmth 
of  their  bodies,  and  in  turning  over  or  throwing  their 
hands  and  feet  about,  they  strike  the  friendly  snake, 
who  feels  insulted  and  resents  the  infliction  on  his 


246 


personal  rights.  Instantly  the  swelling  begins ; the  suf- 
ferings, until  a comatose  condition  sets  in,  are  terrific, 
but  the  struggle  is  short.  The  poison  gland  is  secreted 
in  the  head  of  the  serpent,  which  emits  the  virus 
when  the  reptile  compresses  its  mouth  on  any  object, 
which  flows  through  a cavity  of  a tooth  into  the 
wound.  The  poison,  most  deadly  when  sent  out  in 
obedience  to  the  wrath  of  the  reptile,  is  perfectly 
harmless  when  taken  internally.  Its  deathly  qualities 
seem  to  be  in  the  temper  of  the  creature.  The  people 
of  Ceylon  carry  in  the  night  a cane  with  a loose  ring  in 
it  which  warns  the  snakes  to  get  off  the  paths  and  out 
of  their  way;  this  may  be  only  a superstition,  of 
which  India  is  more  full  than  of  serpents. 

Snakes  are  an  article  of  trade,  and  one  will  have  as 
many  opportunities  as  he  desires  to  invest  in  knowl- 
edge afforded  by  the  charmers.  One’s  restful  moments 
will  be  broken  by  all  kinds  (»f  devices  to  get  atten- 
tion to  the  subject  of  snakes.  The  beating  of  a 
drum  may  be  the  signal  for  salamns  which  will  intro- 
duce you  to  a “ dicker”  as  to  the  amount  desired  for  a 
performance.  One  man  will  have  a boa  constrictor, 
twelve  or  fifteen  feet  in  length,  wrapped  like  a spiral 
around  his  neck,  while  the  head  of  the  boa  rears 
up  as  if  commanding  the  institution  on  which  he 
has  coiled  himself.  This  head  is  also  bidden  for 
attention  and  profit,  by  the  investment  desired  to  be 
made  with  the  foreigners,  he  flashes  the  light  from 
his  glistening  eyes  upon  the  beholder,  his  tongue 
protrudes  and  he  is  as  uneasy  as  if  suffering  from 
colic;  soon  he  slowly  unwinds  himself  from  around 
the  showman’s  neck  and  slides  to  the  ground  ready 
to  serve  the  foreigner  in  the  same  fashion,  though  the 
experiment  might  be  more  doubtful,  if  he  would  per- 


247 


mit  it.  Upon  eacli  arm  of  the  charmer  is  coiled  a 
snake  of  a different  species,  which  is  making  for 
the  ground  and  will  be  soon  making  also  for  the  be- 
holder, if  he  will  permit  the  approach,  but  turns 
back  to  the  peremptory  call  of  his  master.  A jar  is 
opened  and  two  monster  cobras  lift  their  heads  into 
the  daylight  with  hoods  expanded  like  rudders  to 
guide  them  to  their  foes ; their  hisses  at  the  American 
pilgrim  are  more  suggestive  than  salutary.  But  at 
the  command  of  the  snake  potentate  they  double 
themselves  over  the  mouth  of  the  jar,  and  the  last 
thing  seen  is  the  tip  of  their  tails  set  skyward  a§  their 
heads  lie  at  the  bottom  of  the  jar. 

Another  professor  appears  for  American  delecta- 
tion with  ajar  full  of  scorpions,  which  he  manipulates 
with  as  much  unconcern  as  the  American  boy  does 
fishing  worms.  This  professor  in  the  high  taming  art 
lets  them  hang  at  his  finger  ends,  creep  over  his  arms 
and  up  his  sleeves,  if  he  has  any ; he  hangs  them  on 
his  ears  and  to  his  nose  or  anywhere  his  patron  may 
demand.  They  are  as  peaceable  as  trained  mice. 

After  this  performance  a fight  was  arranged  be- 
tween the  cobra  and  mongoose,  or  weasel.  One  rupee 
was  the  price  of  the  contest,  which  was  raised  and  the  / 
fight  declared  in  progress.  The  cobra  was  about  four  / 
feet  long,  two  feet  of  whose  length  was  lifted  up 
straight  as  a lamp-post,  his  hood  set,  his  eye  ' 
glassy  with  rage  and  tongue  quivering.  The  mon-  | 
goose  was  about  as  large  as  a half-grown  kitten,  sleek-  ,? 
haired  and  sleepy.  The  fight  was  on  the  stone  floor  | 
of  a hotel  piazza.  The  mongoose  seemed  all  through  J 
the  contest  to  be  a sleepy,  good-natured  creature*^ 
The  cobra  struck  first,  the  mongoose  dodged  andfj 
caught  him  by  the  lower  jaw  and  shook  him  but  once, 


248 


and  was  out  of  reach  before  he  could  strike  again,  but 
catching  him  again  by  the  jaw  as  he  drew  back  from 
his  blow  brought  blood  the  second  time.  The  third 
stroke  of  the  cobra  finished  the  contest,  the  mongoose 
caught  him  by  the  neck  and  lifted  the  serpent  his 
whole  length  but  once  and  he  was  dead. 

It  is  a patent  fact  that  while  no  antidote  has  been 
discovered  for  the  poison  of  this  snake,  its  power  to  hurt 
is  not  unchallenged.  There  are  enemies  constantly 
making  war  on  these  venomous  creatures.  Hogs  are 
hostile  and  kill  them  whenever  they  find  them;  deer 
and  antelopes  are  said  to  stamp  them  to  death;  pea- 
cocks, of  which  there  are  thousands,  kill  them,  some- 
times seizing  them  by  the  tails  fly  away  holding 
their  heads  down  until  life  is  gone.  The  warfare 
of  death  goes  on  among  the  creatures  in  tests  of  the 
survival  of  the  fittest  just  as  it  does  among  men. 

The  boa  constrictor  is  another  terror  chiefly  from  its- 
size  only,  but  is  not  half  so  destructive  as  the  creatures, 
more  dangerous  by  their  inferior  size  and  stealthiness.. 
The  boa  is  not  so  general,  its  localities  are  known  and  it  is 
more  frequently  defenseless  when  gorged,  which  is  all 
the  time  if  it  can  find  prey,  it  is  therefore  vulnerable. 
We  met  a soldier  who  had  returned  from  a hunting 
expedition  and  had  rescued  a bufi^alo  calf  from  being 
crushed  and  bagged,  by  killing  the  boa,  about  thirty- 
five  feet  long.  W ater  snakes  are  as  fatal  as  the  cobra, 
with  which  the  Bay  of  Bengal  abounds,  also  sharks,, 
and  in  the  Ganges,  crocodiles,  which  take  not  only  the 
free  will  offerings  of  babies,  but  snap  off  the  legs  and 
feet  of  the  bathers  in  the  sacred  waters  as  quickly  as 
a steam-cutting  knife,  often  painlessly  because  done 
so  quickly  that  the  victim  does  not  know'  what  is  the 
matter  until  he  lifts  his  footless  leg  out  of  the  water. 


249 


The  termites,  or  white  ants,  exist  in  India  and  are 
very  destructive.  They  live  in  great  communities,  and 
are  almost  omnivorous  in  the  larva  and  pupa  as  well  as 
in  the  perfect  state.  In  their  communities  there  are  five 
classes,  males,  females,  w’orkers,  neuters,  and  soldiers, 
and  they  are  the  most  warlike  of  all  their  kind.  But 
there  is  an  inexplicable  fact,  the  workers,  neuters  and 
soldiers  are  all  imperfectly  developed  females.  The 
males  and  perfect  females  have  four  wings  which  are 
long  and  nearly  equal,  and  which  are  often  suddenly 
cast  off  as  a preparation  for  death.  But  the  greater 
part  of  these  colonies  consists  of  workers  which  are 
wingless.  The  soldier  class  have  a solitary  identity, 
are  larger  than  neuters,  generally  cowards  and  are 
armed  with  very  large  meridilites  which  are  as  loaded 
war  weapons  ready  for  conflict.  Most  of  the  white 
ants  make  their  nests  in  the  ground  and  their  presence 
indicates  the  richest  soil,  whether  they  make  it  rich  or 
choose  it  because  it  is  rich  is  not  certainly  known,  but 
they  appropriate  great  stretches  of  country,  and  fight 
for  its  possession  with  the  ferocity  of  North  American 
Indians.  Their  ground  houses  are  conical  or  turret- 
like, ranging  from  twelve  to  thirty  feet  high  in  groups 
like  the  wigwams  of  an  Indian  village.  Their  houses 
are  divided  within  into  various  chambers  and  galleries, 
and  there  are  as  many  as  tw’o  or  three  roofs  within  the 
turret-shaped  interior,  and  the  thick  walls  are  perfor- 
ated by  passages  leading  to  the  nurseries  and  stores  of 
food.  If  any  intruder  comes  suspiciouslv  near  or 
breaks  into  the  domicile  the  soldiers  appear  ready  fi^r 
fight,  and  these  do  not  waste  their  time  in  sham  bat- 
tles; invaders  had  better  take  to  their  heels  before 
they  are  surrounded  and  overpowered. 


250 


But  these  torments  serve  out  blessings  in  compensa- 
tion. They  consume  every  kind  of  decaying  vegeta- 
ble and  animal,  and  are  the  enemies  of  malaria.  But 
no  house  in  India  is  safe  from  them ; they  will  consume 
every  article  of  furniture,  floors,  girders  in  a night, 
only  a shell  remains,  and  the  roofs  of  houses,  usually 
made  of  clay  covered  with  a dressing  of  red  clay  and 
cow  dung,  or  thatched  will  break  in  without  the  slight- 
est warning.  Pine  is  certain  of  attack,  and  only 
teak  and  iron  can  withstand  them.  At  present 
nearly  all  the  beams  of  valuable  buildings  are  made 
mostly  of  railroad  iron.  It  is  said  by  the  natives  that 
they  will  attack  and  devour  large  animals  and  even 
men,  but  the  probabilities  are  that  it  is  only  the  weak, 
whom  they  perceive  to  be  dying,  whom  they  han- 
dle so  roughly.  They  move  in  vast  hosts  to  where 
food  may  be  found  and  are  almost  resistless  in  their 
march ; as  multitudinous  as  grasshoppers  in  the  West 
and  as  pugilistic,  they  have  no  idea  of  defeat.  Multi- 
tudes will  press  on  over  the  dead  bodies  of  their 
defeated  companions.  Their  means  of  increase  is  almost 
incredible,  a single  female  will  lay  80,000,000  in  a 
year.  There  are  also  centipedes  with  power  to  hurt 
the  people  fatally,  and  the  cure  they  apply  will  only 
show  the  density  of  their  superstition.  When  any  are 
bitten  the  cure  is  that  they  must  eat  bread  made  by  a 
woman  whose  name  is  Marathi,  which  is  centipede,  in 
order  to  be  relieved  of  pain. 

The  lizard,  a most  harmless  creature,  is  greatly 
dreaded  as  an  omen  of  calamity.  If  it  fall  on  any 
one,  according  to  the  place  it  touches  the  body  it  is  a 
good  or  bad  omen ; if  it  fall  on  the  back  of  the  head 
it  is  a sign  of  death ; if  it  fall  on  the  front  part  of  the 
head  it  is  a sign  that  one  will  obtain  a kingdom ; if  it 


251 


fall  on  the  left  foot  it  is  the  sign  of  the  death  of  a 
brother,  and  if  between  the  feet,  a sign  of  the  death  of 
a wife ; there  are  thirty  good  and  bad  signs  on  account 
of  the  existence  of  the  lizard. 

Cats  are  believed  to  be  the  authors  of  calamities,  or 
rather  omens  of  them.  If  a cat  cross  a Hindu’s  path- 
way on  a journey  he  will  turn  back.  In  the  past  a 
king’s  retinue  of  ten  elephants  and  fifty  horses  and  a 
thousand  footmen  all  turned  back  after  being  well  on 
in  their  journey  because  a cat  happened  to  cross  the 
road  before  them. 

Ant  feeding  is  religious  duty,  a commercial  side  to 
piety.  The  question  with  the  natives  is  how  to  get  the 
most  merit  on  the  least  money.  The  life  of  an  insect 
may  be  the  life  of  a dead  ancestor,  hence  the  life  of 
an  insect  is  as  valuable  as  that  of  a man,  and  as  it  will 
eat  less  and  therefore  cost  less,  they  can  gain  the  same 
merit  on  less  money  by  feeding  ants  instead  of  men. 
The  same  amount  of  food  necessary  for  a man  would 
feed  ten  thousand  ants,  and  ten  thousand  times  as 
much  merit  would  be  gained,  while  money  would  be 
saved  besides. 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 


DELHI,  ANCIENT  AND  3I0DEBN. 

N the  Jumna,  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles 


south  of  Lahore,  is  Delhi,  the  most  historic 
city  in  India — the  Athens  of  Asia,  the  wonder  of  cen- 
turies. It  is  situated  on  an  elevation  stretching  down 
into  the  plain  of  the  Jumna.  The  soil  of  the  coun- 
try, back  from  the  river  deposits,  is  generally  hard  red 
clay  and  is  singularly  destitute  of  vegetation.  One 
of  the  greatest  misfortunes  of  the  country  is  in  the 
bad  qualities  of  the  waters  of  the  Jumna.  The  soil  is 
impregnated  with  natron,  which  in  the  overflow  of  the 
river  vitiates  the  water  and  renders  it  unhealthfuL 
The  strength  of  natron  may  be  appreciated  in  the  fact 
that  it  was  the  only  known  substance  for  centuries 
which  would  make  gold  potable,  and  is  thought  to 
have  been  used  by  Moses  to  reduce  the  golden 
calf  to  drinkable  conditions — the  most  disgusting 
potion  ever  put  to  human  lips.  Three  millions  of 
these  pestering  dews  were  retching,  gagging  and 
twisting  in  their  inwards,  getting  a full  dose  of  the 
consequences  of  idolatry  where  they  w’ould  feel  it 
most,  for  their  stomachs  were  always  more  sensitive 
than  their  consciences.  Water  was  formerly  brought 
to  Delhi  by  an  aqueduct  from  the  head  waters  of  the 
river,  where  it  leaves  the  mountains,  thus  securing 
purity.  But  the  aqueduct  that  conveyed  it  fell  into 
ruins,  and  the  consequent  distress  w^as  great,  until,  in 
1820,  the  British  restored  the  famous  waterway,  andthe 
people  showed  their  appreciation  of  the  blessing  by 
going  out  to  meet  it  as  it  first  coursed  its  way  toward 


252 


253 


the  city.  Their  joy  was  irrepressible ; they  wel- 
comed the  stream  with  flowers  strewn  on  its  ad- 
vancing flood.  They  also  made  ofierings  of  ghee  and 
sweetmeats,  as  if  it  were  a coming  deity,  and  were 
wild  in  demonstrations  of  delight. 

The  modern  and  ancient  cities  of  Delhi  skirt  more 
than  ten  miles  by  six  of  the  ruins  of  the  old  city. 
Within  this  area  are  the  ruins  of  one  of  the  most 
magnificent  cities  that  ever  existed.  All  over  this 
vast  space  are  fragments  that  would  have  decor- 
ated Athens  in  its  glory — columns  of  matchless 
proportions  and  beauty  lie  broken,  half  covered 
capitals  that  would  not  have  dishonored  a Praxi- 
teles, patches  of  mosaic  pavements,  heaps  of  arches 
and  entablatures  of  polished  marble,  white  as  crys- 
tal, the  most  exquisite  forms  of  amber-colored  stone, 
cut  into  the  perfection  of  shapes,  still  reflecting 
out  of  their  fragments  the  ideality  of  the  buried  genius 
which  conceived  and  executed.  In  this  area  of  spendid 
ruins  are  the  traditional  seven  castles  and  fifty-two 
gates,  described  in  the  enthusiasm  of  wonder  by  the 
Merchant  Finch,  as  far  in  the  bygone  ages  as  1611. 
The  commercial  advantages  of  this  city  are  not  now  equal 
to  others,  but  it  has  compensating  advantages.  It  is 
nearer  the  hills  and  the  modifying  temperature  of  the 
snow-clad  Himalayas,  better  conditioned  as  to  health, 
nearer  the  frontier  and  better  suited  for  defence,  and 
with  a more  subdued  climate. 

Delhi,  the  older,  fell  into  the  disfavor  of  the  caprici- 
ous monarchs  and  ceased  to  attract  any  share  of  im- 
perial favor  for  eighty  years.  During  the  long  reign 
of  Akbar,  and  that  of  his  son,  Agra  and  Lahore 
formed  the  chief  seats  of  government,  but  in  1635 
Shah  Jahan  ordered  the  construction  of  a totally  new 


254 


city  on  the  eve  of  his  setting  out  on  his  second  Deccan 
expedition.  This  city  is  what  was  known  for  centuries, 
says  Bernie,  by  the  name  Shah  Jahan  Abad,  and  for 
short  Jahan  Abad.  This  is  the  present  city,  Delhi, 
bearing  the  name  which  once  belonged  to  the  city  now 
in  ruins.  This  city  was  the  creation  of  a marvellous 
genius,  of  an  architect  never  equalled,  in  many  re- 
spects, in  conceiving  and  executing  a style  of  archi- 
tecture in  harmony  with  the  mystic-tinted  air,  the 
cloudless  skies,  the  land  of  ever-present  flowers.  The 
name  of  this  genius  was  Ali  Mardair  Kahn,  the 
Persian  adventurer  who  joined  Shah  Jahan’s  ser- 
vice in  1637.  He  also  projected  and  completed  the 
canal  which  still  supplies  the  neighborhood  with 
water,  and  is  believed  to  be  the  author  of  the  peculiar 
dome  belonging  specially  to  India  and  out  of  i^lace 
everywhere  else,  the  bulbous  dome  which  even  in  India 
indicates  that  the  decadence  of  Saracenic  architecture 
had  begun. 

Delhi  is  the  traditional  locality  of  the  Aryans,  whose 
history  is  thought  to  be  imbedded  in  the  mythical 
epic  called  Mahabharata.^  The  history  of  Delhi  re- 
mained obscure  until  the  eighth  century  A.  D , when 
it  became  a metropolis  of  the  Tamar  Rajputs,  whose 
overthrow  by  the  Pathans  of  Gazni  led  to  the  forma- 
tion of  the  first  Empire  of  the  Mohammedans  of 
India  in  1193.  When  the  Pathans  became  engaged 
with  the  early  Tartar  invaders  the  cities  of  this  plain 
were  united  for  the  purpose  of  fortification,  and  de- 
fence. It  will  be  necessary  to  a philosophic  view 
of  the  history  of  Delhi  to  trace  the  line  of  the  great 
Moghuls  to  its  fountain  head  in  the  mountains  of 
Afghanistan  and  further  on  to  the  steppes  of  Tart  ary. 
All  the  wonderful  ruins  of  Delhi,  old  and  new,  are 


255 


meaningless  separated  from  the  Moghul  life  and  rule 
in  India. 

The  so-called  Moghul  Empire  of  Hindustan,  or 
rather  the  Empire  of  the  Chagatai  Turks,  dates  only 
from  the  time  of  Henry  the  VIII.  Then  Agra  was 
taken  from  the  Afghan  house  of  Lodi  on  the  10th  of 
May,  1526.  The  victor  was  Sultan  Babar,  prince  of 
the  small  but  fertile  country,  now  called  Kokand.  He 
was  the  sixth  in  descent  from  Tamerlane,  of  the  Chagatai 
tribe  of  Turks.  But  his  mother  was  a ^loghul  lady 
descended  from  the  other  great  Tartar  leader,  Chenghis, 
Khan  Babar,  the  first  of  this  line,  fought  a decisive 
battle  with  the  Rajputs  near  Sickri,  in  1527,  after  his 
death  was  buried  in  Kabul.  This  was  a wonder- 
ful man  with  a life  full  of  danger  besetments  and  hair 
breadth  escapes;  he  grew  to  his  manhood  from  a friend- 
less youth.  He  was  warrior,  poet  and  an  almost 
universal  genius,  his  war  records  are  varied  with  dis- 
criptions  of  the  beauties  of  nature,  flowers  and  “ danc- 
ing waters,”  and  these  were  intermingled  with 
accounts  of  drinking  batters,  repentances  for  the  sins 
of  his  cups,  exaltations  over  victories  and  the  despair- 
ings  of  a man  of  distressing  moods  of  reactions  and 
despondencies  which  were  pitiful. 

Babar  was  ruler  of  all  the  territories  of  Hindustan 
when  he  died,  and  also  of  Kabul,  from  Hindu  Kush, 
in  Turkestan,  to  the  borders  of  Bengal.  He  was  suc- 
ceeded by  his  son,  Humayun,  who  was  in  that  order, 
so  common  to  parental  greatness,  a fool.  He  was,  as 
might  be  expected,  testy  and  quarrelsome,  and  in  an 
everlasting  wrangle  with  his  brothers,  and  soon  was 
involved  in  quarrels  with  the  Afghan  settlers  of  Behar, 
and  in  1539  was  driven  out  of  that  province.  The 
next  year  he  got  another  drubbing  in  a fight  with  Sher 


256 


Shah,  near  Kanouj.  He  was  married  to  a Persian 
lady  named  Hamida  Begum,  who  was  the  mother 
of  the  great  Akbar.  Humayun,  after  many  defeats, 
recovered,  by  “dumb  luck,”  the  whole  of  Hindustan, 
and  died  by  an  accidental  fall  from  a building,  still  to 
been  seen  in  Delhi,  near  to  which  he  was  buried. 

The  modern  city  of  Delhi  is  related  to  the  older 
cities,  of  which  there  were  seven  before  it,  being  built  - 
out  of  parts  of  the  ruins,  and  enough  is  left  on 
the  surface  and  under  the  ground  to  build  two 
or  three  greater  than  the  one  that  now  excites  our 
wonder  and  challenges  our  admiration.  These  are  to 
us  the  greatest  ruins  in  extent  in  history.  Their  value  is 
in  the  unfolding  of  the  past  and  the  absence  of  alj  restraint 
of  the  incarnations  of  genius  in  the  world.  Nothing 
that  we  could  say,  if  fancy  itself  were  unbridled  and 
thrown  off,  would  give  our  readers  an  adequate  idea 
of  the  extent  of  the  imprisoned  wonders  in  these 
vast  stone  heaps.  Athens,  Baalbec  or  Ephesus  are 
insignificant  compared  with  these  pale  relics  of  the  dead 
dynasties  of  Moghul  power  and  magnificence.  As  far 
as  eye  can  scan  are  ruins  of  temples  and  palaces  of  the 
marble  of  Jeypore,  the  finest  which  the  light  of  heaven 
ever  glistened  upon,  and  brown  or  red  sand  stone  which 
would  have  set  Hugh  Miller’s  genius  on  fire,  on  which 
the  chisel  of  the  workman  of  to-day  would  be  but 
the  unskilled  efforts  of  apprentices. 

Rome  has  no  such  masterful  designs.  No  such 
beauty  as  appears  in  the  remnants  of  these  peerless 
arches ; no  such  pillars  or  portals  ; no  such  tracings ; 
no  such  polish,  even  after  centuries  of  war,  waste  and 
neglect.  Vandalism  and  diabolism  have  done  their 
worst.  The  dust  of  the  lime  mortar  that  bound  them 
together  in  their  glory  stifles  one  as  the  carriage  wheels 


257 


roll  through  the  dust  of  the  dead  and  of  dismembered 
greatness  where  the  names  of  the  Moghuls  were  once 
spoken  in  reverent  accents. 

It  has  been  something  of  a triumph  in  India  when  an 
Emperor  has  died  in  his  bed.  They  are  used  to  no 
such  superfluities,  the  knife,  sword,  stilletto,  poniard  or 
garrot  have  been  most  popular  modes  of  outputting 
to  the  “evergreen  shores”  of  the  Paradise  of  Moham- 
medan delights.  Humayun  was  the  last  who  was  bur- 
ied. Nobody  has  ever  been  able  to  guess  the  reason. 
He  has  also  a magnificent  mausoleum  about  two  miles 
south  of  the  fort,  through  which  entrance  is  made 
into  modern  Delhi.  He  had  a wife  who  either  cared 
for  his  memory  or  took  occasion  to  glorify  herself  in 
building  this  tomb,  the  motives  at  best  were  doubtless 
mixed.  Haji  Begum  began  this  famous  monument, 
but  it  was  finished  by  his  son  the  great  Akbar,  who 
is  said  to  have  spent  fifteen  laks,  which  would  be  a mil- 
lion five  hundred  thousand  rupees,  about  8800,000. 
This  tomb  was  the  first  conception  that  took  form  in 
the  famous  architecture  which  owes  its  existence  to  the 
conditions  of  India  and  which  reached  perfection 
nearly  a century  later  in  the  peerless  Taj. 

It  was  the  first  effort  in  the  Moghul  period,  and  is 
suggestive  of  the  forms  that  still  exist  which  excite  the 
admiration  of  the  world.  It  rises  in  majestic  grandeur, 
as  if  a creation  of  the  light  itself,  from  a platform  two 
hundred  feet  square,  ascended  by  four ‘great  ffights. 
The  exterior  is  a square  with  the  corners  cut  off,  form- 
ing an  octagon  with  four  long  and  four  short  faces,  and 
each  of  the  short  faces  forms  one  side  of  the  four 
octagonal  corners.  In  this  tomb  first  appear  towers 
attached  to  the  four  angles  of  the  main  building. 
They  are  an  innovation  in  the  Mohammedan  architec- 


ture  of  Northern  India,  which  w as  gradually  improved 
and  developed  until  it  culminated  in  the  graceful  min- 
arets of  the  Taj.  The  neck  of  the  dome  is  another  inno- 
vation, in  its  size  like  a graceful  neck  to  a great  human 
head,  and  this  became  a feature  ever  after  in  all 
Moghul  buildings.  There  is  still  another  marked  con- 
trast to  the  developed  architecture  of  a century 
afterward.  It  is  not  of  the  bulbous  shape  of  those 
that  appear  in  the  Taj  or  the  Mosque  of  Delhi,  but  has 
a moulded  cornice  which  makes  the  impression  of  bold- 
ness, and  indicates  the  absence  of  effeminateness  that 
followed  a century  later.  This  dome  on  the  octagon 
is  estimated  to  be  three-fourths  the  size  of  St.  Paul’s, 
in  London.  It  appears  in  grand  effect.  The  marble 
is  of  snowy  whiteness,  tinted  by  the  peculiar  light  of 
India,  no  doubt  affected  by  the  glare  of  the  eternal 
snows  of  the  Himalayas.  Its  majestic  portals,  its 
lofty  openings,  its  well  proportioned  plinth,  with  door- 
ways impress  one  that  if  it  is  not  the  parent  of  what 
followed  and  culminated  in  the  next  century,  it  was 
at  least  the  sublime  marble  prophet  of  greater  things 
to  come. 

There  is  a wide  pavement  on  every  side  on  the  top 
of  the  wall,  the  height  of  which  is  reached  by  the  great 
flights  of  stone  steps,  and  this  is  surrounded  by  battle- 
ments of  exquisitely  carved  brown-stone  fret  work, 
very  like  a honey-comb,  the  parts  not  more  than  an 
inch  thick.  The  sublime  arches  transfix  the  attention, 
and  if  there  is  any  love  for  the  beautiful,  innate  or  cul- 
tivated, one  would  not  go  further  at  a single  Visit  than 
to  one  of  these  great  archways,  and  each  of  these 
arches  serves  as  a niche  for  a tomb.  Each  side  of  the 
mausoleum  is  over  one  hundred  feet  long  and  con- 
tains three  lofty  and  deeply  arched  recesses,  within 


259 


which  are  the  windows  and  doorways.  Above  the 
great  pavement  on  which  it  stands,  which  is  of  old 
red  sand-stone,  the  building  is  constructed  of  marble 
with  courses  of  red  stone  about  a quarter  of  the  thick- 
ness of  the  ashler  and  between  every  two  courses. 

After  the  first  gateway  is  passed  and  the  dome 
opens  its  great  expanse  of  light  above,  one  is  dazed  at 
the  glory  of  magnitude  looking  down  upon  him;  he 
feels  his  littleness  beside  the  creations  of  his  race. 
Under  this  dome  is  a large  circular  room,  in  the  centre 
of  which  is  a small  white  marble  sarcophagus,  polished 
so  that  the  dust  of  centuries  cannot  obscure  its  brilli- 
ance, especially  in  the -fight  of  a cloudless  sky,  in  which 
are  the  remains  of  Humayun,  who  was  the  son  of  the 
first  Moghul  Emperor  Baber  and  father  of  the  great 
Akbar.  The  fioor  is  of  the  finest  marble,  polished  be- 
yond the  skill  of  the  present.  It  is  in  diamond-shaped 
blocks,  with  corners  of  variegated  stones.  Outside  of 
the  central  hall  is  a corridor  leading  to  four  octagonal 
chambers  containing  the  tombs  of  the  two  wives  of  the 
Emperor.  This  magnificent  creation  starts  the  sug- 
gestion that  the  instinct  in  man  to  build  is  a Godlike 
attribute,  has  he  not  a divine  inspiration  to  the  beau- 
tiful, and  the  courage  and  strength  of  a Titan  to 
pursue  it  to  results  so  glorious. 

All  around  has  been  constructed  to  lead  to  the 
grandest  effects  possible  from  light,  the  subdued 
sky,  the  peerless  material  and  the  sublime  genius 
that  here  embodied  itself.  Its  effects  are  increased 
by  the  magnitudes  around  it  from  which  it  must 
be  viewed.  It  is  enclosed  in  a quadrangle  nearly 
four  hundred  yards  square,  which  was'  originally 
a tropical  garden,  a very  Paradise  of  sensual  de- 
lights, loaded  with  grateful  odors,  enlivened  by  flowers. 


260 


amid  the  sound  of  falling  water  of  fountains  with 
marble  fish  ponds.  The  gardens  were  the  delight  of 
birds  of  gay  plumage  and  almost  ceaseless  song.  The 
building  of  this  architectural  wonder  occupied  two 
hundred  masons  daily  sixteen  years.  Out  of  the 
eighteen  marble  tombs  erected  in  this  magnifient 
building  only  one  gives  the  name  of  the  honored 
dead. 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

TOMBS  NEAR  DELHI. 

ONE  is  bewildered  amidst  such  surroundings  as 
fringe  the  present  city  of  Delhi  in  deciding  what 
not  to  describe.  There  is  so  much  that  the  mind  be- 
comes jaded  and  rebels  at  its  burdens.  There  must 
be  a limit  both  to  the  ability  of  the  writer  and  to 
the  patience  of  the  reader.  A brief  description  will 
be  given  of  the  tomb  of  Nizamudin.  The  enclosure  to 
this  resting  place  of  the  dead  is  entered  by  an  impor- 
tant gateway,  and  not  without  salutation.  Filthy 
fakirs,  alive  with  vermin,  beset  the  stranger  in  a 
coarse  guttural  voice.  In  India  piety  and  vermin 
hob-nob,  and  the  pests  always  have  the  best  showing. 
There  are  at  the  entrance  lepers  and  mangy  dogs 
and  asses  braying  as  if  they  too  were  calling  for  their 
share  of  the  booty  which  every  one  is  demanding,  and 
every  dirty  rascal  is  turning  up  his  nose  at  the  foreigner, 
whom  he  would  disdain  to  set  with  his  dogs;  old 
dilapidated  bullock  carts  and  naked  children  crowd 
the  gates  of"  the  house  of  the  dead,  impressing  the 
observer  that  the  best  part  of  the  Indian  race  must 
be  underground. 


261 


The  first  building  approached  is  the  Chausat 
Kamba,  or  sixty-four  pillars.  Within  are  the  bones 
of  the  foster  brother  of  the  great  Akbar,  whose  name 
was  Aziza  Kokal  Tash.  This  building  is  in  the  form 
of  a marble  hall,  with  twenty-five  small  domes,  and 
the  pillars  supporting  them  from  within  are  so 
arranged  as  to  form  magnificent  groined  arches. 
On  all  four  sides  are  screens  of  carved  marble.  The 
marble  is  cut  into  geometrical  figures,  and  the  lattice 
is  not  half  an  inch  thick  and  highly  polished.  It 
has  the  smooth,  cold  lustre  of  ice,  so  that  this 
fret  work,  seen  only  in  India,  is  unapproachable. 
Machinery  could  not  cut  it,  for  its  shapes  are 
as  curious  as  a puzzle  and  have  a perfection  of 
finish  that  only  slave  life  could  or  would  pro- 
duce. This  building  was  among  the  first  conceptions 
of  that  style  which  has  made  India  famous.  It 
would  have  had  architectural  immortality  if  one  in  a 
million  outside  of  India  knew  any  thing  about  it. 
This  creation  was  in  the  time  of  Akbar,  first  in  greatness 
of  the  Moghuls,  and  suggests  the  idea  of  a canopy  over 
a family  vault.  There  are  no  distinctions  here  on  ac- 
count of  morals.  The  graveyard  everywhere  is  the 
paradise  of  democracy.  There  are  no  distinctions  in 
India  in  the  last  drama — the  bones  of  an  ass  or  a 
monkey  have  as  good  a chance  for  adoration  as  the  best. 
No  Hindu  was  ever  great  enough  to  spurn  the  immor- 
tality of  an  ass,  for  the  life  of  his  greatest  ancestor 
might  be  there. 

A little  further  on  is  an  example  of  this  true 
democracy  of  an  Indian  cemetery.  The  biggest 
man  among  these  “deaders”  w-as  an  uimiitigated 
fraud,  the  great  Aulia  adventurer,  Shah  Nizam- 
udin,  who  served  under  the  Emperor  Ala-ud-din 


262 


Kalji  about  the  end  of  the  thirteenth  century.  He 
was  believed  to  be  a sorcerer,  by  others  an  assassin 
of  the  secret  society  of  Khorasan.  Sleeman  says  he 
was  father  of  Thuggism.  So  death  in  India,  as  every- 
where else,  is  a great  leveler,  and  always  levels  down- 
ward. This  old  stylish  rascal  is  believed  to  have  been 
in  the  secret,  if  not  an  accomplice,  of  the  murder  of 
the  Emperor  Toglak  Shah  in  1325.  The  whole  busi- 
ness was  fixed,  and  the  trap  set  , for  the  Emperor 
worked  well.  His  son,  the  heir-apparent,  received  his 
father  in  a magnificent  pavilion  at  Afghanpur,  which 
had  been  erected  for  the  occasion.  The  son  got  his 
father  seated  and  himself  out,  when  the  ill-con- 
trived thing  tumbled  on  the  “ old  man,”  as  it  would  be , 
in  American  phase,  and  he  was  found  to  be  “flat 
as  a flounder.”  His  son,  of  course,  had  flattened  his 
father,  thus  preparing  him  to  reign  in  grand  style  in 
the  court  of  death  to  make  room  for  himself,  and  he 
became  the  notorious  tyrant  Mohamad  Ibn  Toghlak. 

This  information  has  been  thrown  out  by  way  of  a 
moral  and  of  an  introduction  to  the  habits  of  the 
Moghuls.  The  tomb  that  holds  them  is  of  vastly 
more  value  than  its  dusty  treasures.  It  is  a thing 
of  grace,  surrounded  by  a veranda  of  snowy-white 
marble,  polished  until  it  glistens  by  moonlight.  A 
pierced  marble  screen  encloses  the  sarcophagus,  which 
is  always  covered  with  a cloth.  A carved  wooden 
guard  encloses  the  grave-stone,  and  from  the  four 
corners  are  stone  pillars  draped  with  cloth,  which 
support  an  angular  wooden  frame-work,  the  whole 
looking  very  like  the  canopy  of  an  old-time,  high- 
posted  Dutch  bed.  Below  this,  and  for  what  rea- 
son none  could  tell,  is  a dirty  old  cloth  of  green 
and  red,  as  threadbare  as  filthy.  It  looks  as  if  the 


263 


old  defiinct  had  rubbed  his  bones  upon  it  for  at 
least  three  hundred  years.  The  evidences  of  the 
unity  of  the  race  are.  commensurate  with  the  race 
itself.  Here,  in  the  beginning  of  the  fourteenth  cen- 
tury, was  the  same  tendency  of  to-day — to  raise  the 
worst  into  the  highest  places.  We  see  it  in  parades ; 
the  vagabond  in  secret  societies  too  frequently  carries 
the  Bible,  and  the  worst  characters  in  communi- 
ties delight  in  the  thought  of  having  on  their  garish 
monuments,  “Blessed  are  the  dead  that  die  in  the 
Lord.”  'At  the  head  of  this  unmitigated  Moham- 
,medan  scoundrel  is  the  Koran.  The  screens  are  mar- 
vels, the  maker  must  have  been  inspired  with  the 
thought  that  screens  were  the  things  most  needed,  and 
his  sublimest  efforts  are  bestowed  here.  The  roof  is 
gaudily  painted,  which  shows  how  vulgarity  and  sub- 
limity may,  unnatural  as  it  may  seem,  be  yoked  like 
an  ox  and  an  ass  together.  At  one  side  of  this 
mausoleum  is  the  noted  Jamatkhana  Mosque,  a gloomy 
innovation  in  a land  of  beauty.  It  does  not  belong 
to  India,  and  the  conception  must  have  been  from  the 
pit.  This  style  is  called  here  the  Second  Pathan. 

Poets  live  even  in  graveyards  in  every  land  on 
which  the  sun  shines.  The  poet  Kushru  lies  by  his 
patron  and  in  the  odors  of  dead  kings.  In  life  he 
was  a law  and  direction  to  himself.  Like  Diogenes 
all  the  favor  he  asked  of  his  royal  master  was  to  stand 
out  of  his  daylight.  He  was  the  greater  man  though 
the  dependent  man ; he  moved  about  as  he  pleased 
through  the  corridors,  gates  and  gardens  of  the  Em- 
peror Toghlak  Shah  five  hundred  years  ago,  and  sang 
whatever  harmonies  came  into  his  head  and  thrummed 
on  his  lyre,  all  of  which  delighted  the  men  of  his 
time.  From  what  was  heard  of  native  musical  per- 


264 


formances  we  were  glad  that  he  was  dead  too  long  to 
be  heard.  But  he  was  the  Burns  of  India  in  his  time. 
The  greatest  and  fairest  of  the  land  of  flowers  watched 
his  lips  to  catch  the  expressions  of  the  man’s  soul,  as 
they  came  forth  from  the  matrix  of  soul-stirring  song. 
He  was  the  companion  of  the  oldest  son  of  the  gorge- 
ous old  Emperor  Bulbun.  He  was  a Persian  by  birth, 
but  belonged  to  Delhi  by  adoption  on  both  sides,  and 
saw  the  ups  and  downs  of  not  less  than  six  Emperors 
as  they  ascended  and  descended  from  their  thrones. 

He  put  into  verse  the  romance  of  Caula  and  Dewai 
Devi,  the  wife  and  daughter  of  a Hindu  king.  Th& 
wife  had  been  taken  captive  in  one  of  the  king’s  expedi- 
tions, broke  his  heart  with  her  beauty,  and  led  the 
captor  captive  in  matrimony.  She  desired  to  share 
her  conquests  with  her  daughter,  a greater  beauty,  so 
besought  her  Emperor,  but  servant,  to  send  Alf 
Kahn,  his  nephew,  to  the  army  in  the  Deccan  to  cap- 
tnre  her  daughter,  if  possible,  and  so  save  her 
from  being  married  to  a Mahratta  Prince.  The 
father  heard  that  another  Hoghul  was  coming  in 
quest  of  more  wives,  and  sent  her  to  her  betrothed 
in  charge  of  a faithful  ofiicer.  When  Alf  Khan  came 
near  the  famous  caves  of  Ellora  he  met  the  retinue  of 
a person  of  rank  coming  out  of  the  Buddhist  temple. 
There  was,  as  usual,  a quarrel  about  precedence,  and 
the  party  in  whose  care  the  betrothed  wife  belonged 
was  defeated  and  Alf  Kahn  found  his  prisoner  to  be 
the  princess  for  whose  capture  he  was  sent  from  Delhi, 
and  she,  on  account  of  her  great  beauty,  was  married 
to  the  heir- apparent ; and  this  poet,  who  found  a 
splendid  tomb,  was  by  turning  these  events  into 
verse  made  as  immortal  as  any  thing  can  be  in 
India.  He  lives  as  no  other  of  his  race  during  the 


265 


last  five  hundred  years.  All  India  has  him  at  it® 
tongue’s  end.  The  babyhood  of  two  hundred  and  fifty 
millions  is  pleased  or  hushed  by  his  living  melodies. 

In  a noble  sense,  he  being  dead  yet  speaketh,  or  ^ 
rather  is  spoken.  He  is  the  only  ruler  India  has  had 
who  has  lived  nearer  the  heart  of  India  than  history 
itself  in  the  every-day  thoughts  and  feelings  of  it® 
millions,  while  crowned  heads  that  thought  they  were 
deigning  to  give  him  bread  and  a transient  smile  in 
their  fleeting  day  of  pomp  and  power  are  forgotten  or 
are  remembered  because  they  were  seen  in  the  same 
daylight  that  shined  on  him. 

The  dirty  herd  which  flop  themselves  in  the  dust 
about  this  noted  place  attend  the  poet’s  resting  place  in« 
pantominic  reverence.  The  lines  on  the  outside  of 
the  mortuary  were  no  doubt  in  deference  to  the  popu- 
lace, for  his  nick  name,  so  dear  to  the  multitudes  of 
their  heroes  is  here,  the  Parrot.  Within  this  enclos- 
ure is  another  tomb  which  has  all  over  it  the  tracing® 
of  both  devotion  and  genius.  It  is  that  of  Mirza 
Jahangir.  The  tomb  is  raised  above  the  floor  ap- 
proached by  steps,  and  enclosed  in  another  of  those 
incomparable  marble  filigree  screens.  The  sarcophagu® 
is  covered  with  exquisite  designs  of  leaves,  vines  and 
flowers  carved  in  marble.  Mirza  Jahangir  was  the 
son  of  Akbar  the  II.,  and  was  known  as  Drunken  Dan- 
yel.  Greatly  beloved  by  his  father,  but  unworthy  of  the 
love  of  anybody,  his  whole  career  was  one  of  unspeak- 
able sadness,  ending  as  'drunkenness  always  dqes^ 
and  his  splendid  tomb  is^  an  eflbrt  to  extinguish  in 
the  glitter  of  polished  marble  the  eclipse  of  life  by 
coarse  appetites ; it  is  by  no  means  the  first  nor  will  it 
be  the  last  vain  effort.  This  drnnken  Danyel  was  ban- 
ished from  Delhi  because,  drunk  or  sober,  he  was  con- 


26« 


spiring  against  his  brother,  the  heir-apparent.  He 
'was  sent  to  Allahabad,  where  he  finished  his  miserable 
existence  by  drinking  cherry  bounce. 

There  is  no  place  on  the  earth  where  no  glint  of 
heavenly  saving  sunshine  has  not  fallen,  and  none  where 
some  alien  flower  from  the  Paradise  of  God  has  not  come 
from  the  seed  of  life.  God  has  witnesses  among  every 
people,  his  voice  speaking  through  man  in  every  clime 
and  in  every  tongue.  In  this  cluster  of  tombs  of 
bad  men,  these  exquisite  marble  apologies  to  pos- 
terity for  their  badness,  is  a single  one  over  which 
angels  may  keep  watch  in  this  lonely  place.  It  is  the 
tomb  of  Jahanira  Begum,  the  Christian  daughter  of 
Shah  J ahan,  who  chose  afiliction  with  an  imprisoned 
father  not  worthy  of  such  devotion,  but  needing  it 
none  the  less  on  this  account,  rather  than  the  pleasures 
of  sin  in  the  court  of  an  ingrate  son,  who  had  driven 
him  from  his  throne  at  Agra  in  his  old  age.  Her  con- 
version to  Christianity  is  believed  to  have  been 
brought  about  through  the  eflbrts  of  Portuguese  mis- 
sionaries. This  change  of  religion  excited  the  wrath 
of  her  mother,  the  Sultana,  who  persecuted  her  with 
a woman’s  hate  when  instigated  by  false  views  of  relig- 
ion. The  Shah  was  very  tolerant  to  his  daughter,  one 
of  those  compensations  God  vouches  ever  to  his  chil- 
dren sufiering  for  his  sake ; always  from  some  angle  in 
their  apj^arently  dark  skies  comes  the  light  and  flutter 
of  angel  wing.  The  Emperor  made  her  his  confidant, 
he  saw  in  her  the  loving,  dutiful  daughter  whom  he 
could  trust  in  all  exigencies,  and  after  he  was  forsaken 
too  in  prison  by  the  flighty  parasites  of  his  prosper- 
ity. Her  tomb  is  also  enclosed  within  a screen  of  this 
filigree  cut  from  the  solid  marble  in  octagonals  and 
other  forms,  following  radiations  from  the  obtuse 
angles  of  the  octagonal  centres. 


267 


Within  this  enclosure  is  seen  a marble  slab,  and  on 
it  the  inscription,  a* part  of  which  was  written  by  her- 
self, “ Let  no  rich  coverlet  adorn  my  grave,  this  grass 
is  the  best  covering  for  the  tomb  of  the  poor  in  spirit, 
the  humble,  the  transitory,  Jahanira  the  disciple  of 
the  Holy  men  of  Christ,  the  daughter  of  the  Emperor 
Shah  Jahan.”  The  native  authorities  explain  that  the 
holy  men  of  Christ  are  the  fakirs  of  Ajmese.  But 
the  expression  is  singular,  never  so  far  as  we  have  been 
able  to  discover  used  as  descriptive  of  these  fakirs ; 
what  did  they  know  of  Christ  and  what  relation 
could  they  have  had  to  him  ? The  fact  is  more  apparent 
that  the  Christ  lived  uppermost  in  her  soul,  while  she 
had  but  confused  ideas  of  his  character,  having  had 
no  opportunities  for  instruction,  and  associated  his 
name  with  whatever  she  thought  to  be  best.  She  was 
the  most  beautiful  woman  of  her  time  in  India,  and  this 
is  the  judgment  of  the  Europeans  who  saw  her.  Her 
sarcophagus  is  without  a cover,  the  hollow  open  part  is 
filled  with  water,  in  which  float,  as  if  replete  with  life, 
the  matchless  tributes  of  India’s  sunshine  flowers,  rich 
in  both  beauty  and  fragrance. 


) 


CHAPTER  XXV. 


DELHI  AND  ITS  B UINS. 

Delhi  lies  all  about  loose  for  twenty  miles 
around,  in  various  sites — unlike  the  leopard  it 
has  changed  its  spots.  When  invaders  or  ambitious 
rulers  grew  tired,  or  destroyed  Delhi  in  one  place, 
they  built  it  up  immediately  in  another.  Wher- 
ever the  king  went  and  built  a palace  for  himself 
there  the  nobles  were  sure  to  go,  and  another  Delhi 
was  started  and  an*old  Delhi  deserted  ; so  the  whole 
area,  covered  by  ruins,  extended  less  than  forty-five 
square  miles.  Standing  in  lonely  grandeur,  the 
companion  of  light  and  darkness,  about  eleven 
miles  from  the  present  city,  is  the  Kutab  Minar. 
Its  form  is  graceful  and  imposing,  piercing  its 
length  through  the  misty  light;  at  night  throwing 
long  shadows  fringed  with  moonlight.  It  tapers  grad- 
ually from  base  to  summit  and  is  divided  into  seven 
stories  by  heavy  balconies,  the  distance  between  them  • 
diminishing  in  proportion  to  the  diminishing  diameter 
of  the  shaft.  The  effect  of  this  is  to  lengthen  the 
apparent  height  of  the  pillar  by  exaggerating  the  per- 
spective. The  lower  story  is  a polygon  and  above 
the  first  story  the  Minar  is  round.  The  shaft  is 
deeply  fluted  and  the  marble  polished  throughout 
its  entire  length.  The  flutings  on  the  first  story  are 
alternately  semi-circular  and  angular,  on  the 
second  story  they  are  all  semi-circular,  on  the  third 
all  angular.  The  first  three  stories  are  built  of  red 
sand-stone,  the  last  two  of  the  finest  white  marble,  and 
have  plain  surfaces.  The  projecting  galleries  which 

268 


209 


fieparate  tlie  stories  are  massive  and  richly  decorated, 
supported  by  stone  brackets.  Passages  from  the 
Koran,  in  six  horizontal  bands,  carved  in  bos  relief, 
adorn  it.  The  second  story  has  two  such  bands  and 
the  third  one. 

The  height  of  this  monument  is  two  hundred  and 
forty  feet.  It  was,  no  doubt,  originally  sixty  feet  higher, 
the  base  being  fifty  feet  in  diameter  and  the  top  thir- 
teen, commanding  a sweep  only  limited  by  one’s  wearied 
vision,  which  seems  to  draw  the  horizon  to  itself  to  arrest 
the  painful  strain.  Front  foundation  to  top  are  three 
hundred  and  seventy-five  steps.  Leaving  ofi*  the 
cupola,  the  column  is  in  height  just  five  times  its 
diameter.  The  old  cupola  was  probably  a sixth 
story.  The  circumference  of  the  base  is  equal  to  the 
sum  of  the  diameters  of  the  six  stories  of  the  building. 
All  the  bands  are  covered  by  inscriptions ; one  gives  the  ' 
ninety  names  in  Arabic  of  the  Almighty.  On  the 
third  belt  are  the  praises  of  Meerea-ooden  Abdul 
Merzapore  Mohamed  Bin  Sam.  Over  the  entrance 
is  a record  saying  that  the  Minar  of  Sultan 
Skamsh-oodeen  Altamsh  was  injured  and  repaired 
during  the  reign  of  Seuknder  Shah,  son  of  Beholed, 
by  Futeh  Khan,  son  of  Khawas  Khan,  in  A.  D.  1503. 
Over  the  door  of  the  fifth  story  is  the  statement  that 
the  Minar,  having  been  injured  by  lightning,  was  re- 
paired by  the  Emperor  Feroze  Shah,  A.  D.  1368. 
The  Kutab  is  believed  to  have  been  built  seven  hun- 
dred and  seventy  years  ago  in  honor  of  the  holy  fakir 
who  foretold  the  birth  of  an  heir  to  Sultan  Shamsh- 
oodeen.  It  took  forty  years  to  complete  it.  There 
are  other  legends,  none  of  which  deserve  much  cre- 
dence. 

There  are  other  wonders  standing  and  lying  in  these 
ruins  of  centuries.  Time  has  spoiled  them  and  left 


270 


many  without  either  name  or  significance,  N ot  far  from 
the  mausoleum  of  the  Emperor  Humayun,  standing  in 
the  midst  of  the  ruins,  were  two  old  royal  cities,  one 
of  which  stood  on  the  site  of  a Hindu  city,  which  has 
date  of  a birth  recorded  by  mentioning  the  position 
of  the  seven  stars,  from  which  astronomers  reckon  to 
the  year  1430  B.  C.  Therefore,  thirty-three  hundred 
and  two  years  ago  a certain  Hindu  king,  named 
Parik-Sheta,  was  born  in  a city  whose  site  is  now 
occupied  by  a citadel  called  Indraput.  Not  a stone 
of  that  most  ancient  city  can  be  identified.  The 
J umtia  once  flowed  close  to  its  walls,  but  it  has  left 
its  old  affinities  far  away.  There  is  between  this  and 
the  city  an  old  black  mosque,  the  court  of  which  is 
paved  with  round  stones,  built  by  Feroze  Shah,  but  is 
now  a silk  factory  on  very  primitive  principles.  It  is 
filled  with  silk  spinners.  The  walls  are  defaced  and 
scribbled.  There  are  also  rude  caricatures  of  the 
present  rulers,  and  as  usual  some  dark  hints  of  what 
India  will  do  to  her  oppressors  in  the  next  mutiny. 
Inside  of  this  once  great  house  of  worship  is  a goat 
nursery  carried  on  to  a considerable  degree  of  success, 
with  frequent  additions  to  the  stock  on  hand.  The 
government  has  intimated  its  purpose  to  have  this  old 
place  of  worship  cleaned,  which  would  add  another 
to  the  wonders  of  ancient  Delhi. 

In  these  suburbs  is  one  of  the  few  wonderful 
pillars  of  King  Asoka.  There  is  also  one  of  larger 
proportion  in  Allahabad,  to  -which  more  definite  refer- 
ence will  be  made.  This  one  was  originally  set  up 
at  Kumaon.  It  is  of  Buddhist  origin,  but  the  Hindus 
have  appropriated  it  for  centuries  as  all  their  own, 
and  explain  its  presence  by  saying  that  it  is  the  walk- 
ing-stick of  the  shepherd  god,  and  also  declared  that 


271 

it  would  not  be  possible  to  move  it  from  that  place 
until  the  day  of  judgment.  But  the  Emperor  Feroze 
Shah  thought  he  would  try  his  strength  on  this  popu- 
lar tradition,  and  in  1351  caused  it  to  be  taken  to 
Delhi  and  set  up  at  the  entrance  of  his  own  palace, 
where  it  can  now  be  found  amidst  surrounding  ruins. 
It  is  forty-two  feet  and  seven  inches  high,  a monolith 
of  pinkish  granite.  An  English  explorer  saw  it  in 
1611.  A short  distance  from  the  monolith  was  the 
citadal  of  old  Delhi  with  walls  sixty  feet  high,  which 
had  four  gates  defended  by  towers  and  circular  bas- 
tions at  the  corners,  built  by  Shir  Shah  in  1540. 

Here  Tamerlane  came  and  started  streams  of  blood 
down  its  streets,  slaying  one  hundred  thousand  of  its 
inhabitants.  Here  came  Baber,  the  sixth  in  descent 
from  the  Tartar  conqueror,  one  hundred  and  forty 
years  afterward,  capturing  Agra  and  subduing  nearly 
all  the  strip  of  country  from  the  mouth  of  the  Indus 
to  the  Ganges,  including  Behar,  and  established  the 
house  of  Tamerlane  monarchs,the  most  mighty  and  tol- 
erant rulers  of  that  ancient  period.  Baber  was  the 
most  powerful  and  accomplished  Emperor  that  ever 
ruled  in  Asia.  He  was  a scholar  and  a poet.  His 
heart  was  as  tender  as  a mother’s.  It  is  related  of 
him  that  when  his  son  was  near  death  the  quacks  of 
that  time  said  that  he  could  only  live  by  the  death  of 
some  one  greater  than  himself  who  should  give  up  his  life 
for  him.  Baber  was  the  man  and  father  who  could  do 
it,  and  at  fifty  years  old,  in  the  zenith  of  his  strength 
and  glory,  he  consented  that  they  might  transfer  his  life 
to  his  son  to  save  him  from  death,  giving  himself  up  to 
the  juggling  frauds  and  believing  that  his  life  had  been' 
so  transferred,  laid  down  in  his  bed  and  died  a few 
hours  afterward. 


272 


There  is  a tomb  called  the  “ Metcalf  house,”  which 
may  interest  its  modern  name.  It  is  reached 
through  a great  arch,  for  gateways  even  in  ruins  mark 
the  splendor  of  the  Oriental  dynasties.  Nobody  was 
any  thing  in  former  days  who  did  not  have  great  gate 
posts  and  gorgeous  archways,  no  matter  what  was 
beyond.  A very  goat  pen,  for  respectability,  must  be 
reached  through  a gate  lofty  and  spacious.  There  was 
no  need  of  a wall  or  a fence,  the  horizon  would  do  for  that, 
but  the  gates  marked  the  course  of  royalty.  So  the  way 
to  the  Metcalf  house  was  regal.  Beyond  this  were 
the  ruins  of  the  old  palace.  The  Metcalf  house  was 
built  of  brown-stone,  and  was  about  forty  feet  in  diameter 
and  sixty  or  seventy  feet  to  the  top  of  the  dome.  The 
original  possessor  ousted  by  Metcalf  has  his  cenotaph 
still  there,  it  not  being  in  a convenient  shape  for  re- 
moval, as  it  was  a solid  block  of  marble  standing  on 
the  porch.  It  had  stood  in  a lofty  hall  reaching  to 
the  top  of  the  dome. 

This  was  formerly  the  tomb  of  the  foster  father  of 
the  great  Akbar  before  Metcalf  took  possession  and 
changed  the  family  name.  That  Emperor  had  a 
^ood  number  of  “ fosters”  in  the  shape  of  both  mothers 
and  fathers,  and  he  seems  to  have  liked  the  arrange- 
ment, for  the  husbands  were  all  honored  with  splen- 
did funerals  and  tombs.  This  Metcalf  house  was  the 
tomb  of  his  second  foster-mother’s  husband.  He  did 
not  build  any  great  tombs  for  the  foster-mothers,  pel- 
taps  he  had  enough  of  them  in  his  infancy  and  did 
not  care  to  perpetuate  their  memories.  The^  name  of 
this  much  nursed  Emperor  was  Mohammed  Khan,  and 
this  house  may  have  been  built  by  himself  for  his 
summer  house,  and  after  he  was  done  with  it  he  may 
iiave  put  his  foster-fathers  in  it  to  get  them  out  of  the 


273 


way.  It  was  probably  a happy  second  thought  for 
utilizing  this  i)lace,  as  Metcalfs  occupancy  was  no 
doubt  from  utility  alone,  and  no  part  of  the  first  inten- 
tion. This  tomb  became  the  Metcalf  house  because 
Metcalf  went  into  it  and  the  owners  were  not  in  a con- 
dition to  get  a decree  of  ouster.  So  Sir  T.  Metcalf, 
resident  British  minister  at  the  court  of  Delhi,  turned 
it  into  a summer  houje,  and  this  is  all  we  know  about  it. 

These  dead  ancients  had  some  ideas  of  science. 
They  were  men  of  progressive  thought,  if  their  ideas 
had  had  any  means  of  locomotion,  but  their  thoughts  were 
more  mortal  than  themselves  and  generally  died  first. 
There  is  one  exception.  Rajah  Jei  Singh,  of  Jeypore, 
who  had  a passion  for  sun  dials,  and  helped  on  the 
cause  of  science  in  his  day  by  building  an  observatory 
two  miles  from  the  Gate  of  Delhi.  In  this  spot  is  a 
lofty  gnomon,  surrounded  by  a number  of  buildings 
with  walls  in  fair  condition.  The  largest  of  these  is 
an  immense  equatorial  dial.  The  gnomon  rises  fiRy- 
six  feet  from  a base  of  one  hundred  and  four  feet,  the 
length  of  the  hypotenuse  is  one  hundred  and  eighteen 
feet  five  inches.  If  it  had  been  placed  on  a solid 
stone  platform  and  adapted  to  the  purpose  by  scien- 
tific skill  it  would  have  been  the  noblest  monument 
in  all  India.  There  is  another  at  Benares,  but  much 
inferior  in  proportion  and  conception.  There  is  also 
a cluster  of  sun  dials  near  by  inclined  at  an  angle  of 
forty-five  degrees  to  the  horizon.  They  were  intended 
to 'correct  the  markings  of  the  great  dial.  There  is  a 
staircase  outside  leading  to  the  top,  and  the  parapet 
wall  of  the  staircase  forms  gnomons  to  the  concentric 
semi-circular  dials  inclined  to  the  horizon.  The  outer 
walls  form  gnomons  to  graduated  quadrants,  on  the  east 
and  west  these  walls  unite  the  gnomons  at  right  angles. 


On  the  nothern  face  is  a graduated  arc  for  taking  the 
altitude  of  celestial  bodies.  All  these  wonders  of 
their  times  were  erected  when  the  gravity  of  the 
Moghul  Empire  was  settling  downward  into  the  abyss 
in  which  the  mutiny  was  the  tragic  depth. 

We  have  tried  to  “sample  the  lot”  and  have  possibly 
tried  the  patience  of  our  readers  in  the  space  taken 
in  describing  the  emblems  of  a dead  past.  It  will  no 
doubt  be  more  interesting  to  turn  to  things  associated 
with  life.  The  present  city  of  Delhi  does  not  differ 
in  any  remarkable  degree  from  the  other  cities  of  the 
great  Empire.  There  is  a broad  avenue  which  is  a 
surprise  to  the  beholder,  for  the  rule  is  narrowness  and 
crookedness.  Through  the  centre  of  this  magnificent 
roadway  runs  a conduit,  drawn  from  an  old  canal, 
built  ages  ago  by  Ali  Murdan,  bringing  water  from 
the  Himalayas,  already  described.  There  is  a broad 
foot-way  on  one  side  of  it  fringed  with  evergreen 
trees,  with  a wide  carriage-way.  This  furnishes  not 
only  a shaded  walk,  but  a commercial  mart,  as 
well,  for  the  sale  of  cashmere  shawls,  silks,  needle- 
work, rugs  of  every  style  and  quality,  and  every 
thing  else  that  Oriental  fancies  and  fingers  can  con- 
struct. Along  this  royal  highway  the  grandees  of  old 
Moghul  times  rode  on  elephants,'  announced  by  foot- 
men in  showy  livery,  shouting  their  titles  and  ordering 
every  thing  beneath  their  dignity  out  of  the  way. 

This  was  the  highway  of  matrimony,  everybody 
who  intended  to  do  any  thing  announced  it  on  this 
road  to  bliss  or  mi-'ery.  These  processions  are  kept 
up,  but  they  are  a shabby  aping  of  better  days.  An 
English  government  is  a poor  affair  for  Oriental  per- 
formances. In  the  olden  time  a procession  meant 
every  thing  gorgeous.  If  it  were  the  marriage  of  the 


275 


baby  son  of  a person  of  bigb  rank,  the  ladies  of  the 
Emperor’s  family  would  appear  in  native  carryalls 
with  scarlet  trappings,  attended  by  royal  guards  in 
their  gorgeous  dress  and  gilt  fringes,  followed  by 
camel  batteries  or  trained  elephants  superbly  capari- 
soned. After  these  came  the  bridegroom,  sometimes 
crying  for  his  nurse,  or  if  he  were  big  enough  to 
stand  on  his  legs,  he  would,  with  his  friend,  be 
mounted  on  an  elephant.  The  bridegroom  was  loaded 
with  the  entire  family  stock  of  jewels,  glittering  in  the 
sun.  Then  came  the  mace  bearers  with  gold  or  sil- 
ver canes  or  wands,  and  these  were  accompanied  by 
servants  carrying  fans  of  peacock’s  tails  big  enough  to 
cover  the  fire-place  of  a primitive  American  cabin. 
This  is  Oriental  glory,  now  the  “ sic  transit'^  glory  of 
India,  so  sickly,  languid  and  hopeless  that  it  can  no 
longer  hold  up  its  head. 

The  houses  of  Indian  cities  are  either  palaces  or 
bamboo  huts  which  cannot  keep  any  thing  out  or 
in.  A man  could  take  his  cat  by  the  tail  and 
swing  it  through  without  ruffling  a hair.  The  sun 
comes  in;  the  moon  shines  through.  The  rains 
soak  in,  and  every  crawling,  creeping,  hopping,  fly- 
ing, stinging,  biting  creature  has  a j oint  interest  in 
the  domicile  of  brush,  stone  or  mud,  and  all  move  • 
through  as  freely  as  if  not  conscious  of  each  other’s 
existence.  Most  ot  the  streets  are  narrow  and 
filthy,  crowded  with  spindle-shanked  people,  who 
look  to  a Westerner  like  a mosquito,  standing  on  his 
hind  legs  discouraged  and  left  out  of  human  society. 
The  eye  of  the  observer  soon  wearies  of  the  everlast- 
ing sameness  of  huts,  and  rests  for  relief  on  the  great 
objects  of  greater  men  and  times.  On  an  elevated 
spur  of  a hill  is  the  sacred  mosque,  Jumna  Musjid. 


276’ 


Between  this  and  the  palace  are  no  buildings  of  any 
consequence,  for  in  India  one  must  keep  company  with 
the  past,  there  is  no  present  and  not  much  future  yet 
disclosed  through  the  veil  of  the  unseen.  People  move 
about  but  with  no  more  present  effect  than  gnats  sport- 
ing in  evening  sunbeams.  The  only  object  of  the  past, 
except  the  ground  and  sunlight,  is  a queer  looking 
tomb  mosque,  only  worth  a glance,  and  this  because  it 
is  the  resting-place  of  a daughter  of  Arungzebe.  It  is 
built  of  red  granite  and  white  marble  with  slender 
ribbed  minarets,  a miniature  of  greater  palaces  of 
which  it  is  a minification. 


S all  great  achievements  are  associated  with 


names,  without  which  no  event  is  worth  a 
mention,  it  -will  require  a recapitulation  of  the 
great  Moghul  Emperors  to  associate  each  great 
work  of  art  with  its  founders  and  belongings.  The 
Moghul  Empire  of  Hindustan,  or  the  Empire  of  the 
Chaghtai  Turks,  was  in  its  beginning  contemporane- 
ous with  Henry  VIII.  Agra  was  taken  from  the 
Afghan  house  of  Lodi,  10th  of  May,  1526,  by  Baber. 
He  was  the  sixth  descended  from  Tamerlane,  who 
was  a cripple,  called  Tamar,  the  lame,  and  this  was 
changed  into  Tamerlane.  The  mother  of  Baber 
was  a Moghul,  descended  from  the  great  Tartar  leader 
Ghengis  Khan.  He  was  succeeded  by  Humayun, 
whose  magnificent  tomb  has  been  described,  standing 
in  the  ruins  of  old  Delhi.  He  married  a Pei'sian 
woman,  Hanuda  Begum,  who  became  the  mother  of 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 


WONDERS  OF  DELHI. 


277 


the  great  Akbar,  whose  palaces  will  come  now  under 
review. 

Humayun  was  a weak  and  ungovernable  man,  and 
yet  was  father  to  more  important  legislation  and  re- 
forms than  any  before  or  after  him.  He  established 
a tenure  of  office  system,  prescribed  the  d .ties  of  his 
Ministers,  defining  their  powers  and  his  own  methods 
of  administration,  for  he  was  the  first  who  had  any 
fixed  policy.  He  had  army  methods  and  tactics. 
In  his  history  we  see  the  standing  and  progress  of  the 
law,  the  relation  of  the  church  to  the  government, 
and  of  both  to  himself  and  the  Empire  of  the  Hindus, 
in  the  toleration  of  their  religion.  The  revenue  system 
devised  by  him  is  still  in  use.  His  people  were  pros- 
perous and  in  the  main  contented.  The  architecture 
of  his  time  is  of  a distinct  style  and  can  be  always 
identified.  It  is  of  the  Pathan  type,  and  is  well-de- 
scribed in  Fergusson’s  “Modern  Architecture.” 

Akbar,  the  great,  his  son,  ascended  the  throne  at 
fourteen.  He  grew  strong  in  young  manhood  by 
fighting  his  powerful  Minister,  Banain  Khan,  from 
whose  fall  in  1560  the  glorious  era  of  the  Moghul 
Empire  began.  The  young  ruler  Akbar  was  the  first 
to  see  that  if  he  attained  universal  Empire,  he  must 
be  more  than  a Mohammedan.  He  could  not  afford 
to  be  a ruler  and  a partisan,  but  must  be  Emperor  of 
all  his  subjects.  He  first  laid  the  weight  of  his  heavy 
hand  on  his  own  foreign  co-religionists,  and  united 
the  Empire  by  marrying  into  the  defeated  Kuchwaha 
house  of  Amber.  Under  Akbar  arose  a new  creed 
and  a new  style  of  architecture ; the  former  has  faded 
out  of  sight,  as  all  compromises  do.  The  latter  lives 
in  monuments  of  wonder.  He  was  father  to  another 
great  Emperor,  his  successor,  Jehangir.  There  is 


278 


room  for  doubt  as  to  the  legitimacy  of  some  of  the 
Moghul  princes.  Jehangir  was  at  the  first  called 
SuKm,  after  his  spiritual  and  most  probably  real 
father  Sikh  Sulim  Chishti.  The  Emperor  Akbar 
had  the  sorrow  of  knowing  that  Jehangir  was 
conspiring  against  him.  This  heir-apparent  was  a 
relentless  crank,  and  so  cruel  to  his  own  son,  Khusru, 
that  the  mother,  daughter  of  the  great  Hindu  house 
of  Amber,  took  poison  and  died  at  Allahabad,  where 
her  husband  was  Viceroy.  His  other  son,  the 
drunken  Danyel,  died  ef  delirium  tremens,  and 
the  spirit  of  the  great  Akbar  was  crushed  and  he 
died  in  1605.  He  was  whimsical  and  tyrannical,  but 
not  cruel.  Rebels  were  treated  with  firmness,  but  the 
door  of  conciliation  always  stood  open  until  execution. 
He  was  a religious  reformer,  breaking  the  spirit  of 
Mohammedan  intolerance  to  the  Hindus. 

He  was  a wonderful  improvement  on  Eastern  des- 
pots. He  was  a land  adjuster.  The  domain  of  the 
Empire  was  surveyed  and  classified  in  three  divisions, 
according  to  its  productive  powers.  The  .amount  each 
class  would  yield  w^as  averaged,  and  one-third  settled 
on  the  State  and  the  rest  went  to  the  husbandmen. 
He  abolished  the  fee  systems  and  paid  his  ofilcers  in 
cash.  He  daily  administered  justice  in  public,  stand- 
ing below  the  throne  on  a platform  still  preserved  in 
Agra.  He  was  temperate  and  frugal,  loved  art  and 
was  afiable.  He  was  the  greatest  military  genius  of 
his  age.  The  buildings  that  mark  and  preserve  his 
memory  are  the  Agra  fort,  Humayun’s  tomb  at 
Delhi,  Tattehpur  Sikri.  His  son  Jehangir  was  an 
unworthy  successor,  extravagant,  a debauchee,  quar- 
relsome and  cruel,  but  withal  had  redeeming  quali- 
ties— he  was  forgiving,  just  and  liberal,  and  did  what 


279 


Akbar  never  could  do — conciliated  the  Mohammedans 
without  raising  the  wrath  of  the  Hindus.  Jehangir, 
in  the  second  year  of  his  reign,  married  the  widow  of 
Sheer  Afgan,  a daughter  of  Itmad-ud  Daulah,  whom 
he  had  long  loved,  raiding  her  to  all  the  honors 
of  the  throne  under  title  of  Noor  Juhan,  or  Noor 
Mahal. 

Jehangir  was  in  religion  an  eclectic,  he  chose  what- 
ever, for  the  hour,  suited  his  purposes  best ; religion 
meant  business  with  him.  He  had  his  nephews  chris- 
tened by  the  Jesuits ; sixty  Christians  of  Agra  rode 
in  procession  to  the  church  headed  by  an  English 
officer.  He  had  figures  of  the  Lord  and  the  Virgin 
Mary  on  the  rosary  that  he  usually  wore,  and  was 
about  as  good  a Christian  as  the  average  of  the  people 
who  use  such  things.  The  sons  of  his  brother  Morad 
were  brought  up  as  Christians.  He  spent  his  last 
days  in  the  north,  at  Kabul  Cashmere  and  the 
Punjab.  He  was  imprisoned  by  Moherbut  Kahn, 
which  furnished  an  opportunity  for  his  devoted  wife 
to  display  the  ingenuity  of  love  in  obtaining  his  de- 
liverance. He  was  one  of  the  great  Moghul  builders ; 
having  built  the  splendid  tomb  at  Sikandra,  the 
Mahla  in  the  Agra  Palace,  which  will  have  its  place 
in  future  descriptions,  and  the  mausoleum  of  Itmad- 
ud  Daula.  He  died  October,  1627,  and  all  India 
turned  its  eyes  from  the  setting  to  the  rising  sun. 

Shah  Jehan  was  their  hope  and  assurance ; he  was 
at  first  known  as  Shah  Kurrum.  He  was  serious 
and  industrious,  of  well  developed  parts,  and  was 
a military  man  as  well  as  a civil  ruler  of  dis- 
tinction, trained  into  his  great  position  through 
storms  of  battle  in  his  youth.  He  became  a king  of 


280 


magnificence,  which  began  in  the  ceremonies  incident 
to  his  ascent  to  the  throne,  which  he  had  hardly 
reached  when  he  had  to  leave  it  for  the  field  of  battle. 
He  had  to  meet  and  defeat  in  the  Deccan  Kahn  Juhan 
Lodi.  On  this  expedition  he  lost  his  wfife,  Urgumund 
Banu,  the  Exalted  of  the  Palace,  a niece  of  Nur 
Jehan,  wife  of  Jehangir,  and  this  death  was  the  occa- 
sion of  the  peerless  wonder  at  Agra,  the  Taj,  which 
was  began  soon  after  and  which  will  be  described  as 
far  as  it  is  possible. 

These  brief  histories  are  given  to  identify  the  person- 
ages who  built  the  greatest  monuments  in  India  with 
their  work,  and  to  show  who  and  what  they  were.  At 
this  point  in  Shah  Jehan’s  career  appear  the  life  and 
services  inseparable  from  the  splendid  reign  of  Shah 
Jehan;  the  adventurer,  as  he  was  called,  of  Persia,  Ali 
Murdan  Khan.  His  immortality  appears  in  all  the 
works  of  this  magnificent  reign.  At  this  period  the 
court  moved  to  Delhi,  and  the  new  palace  and  canton- 
ment there  were  begun  which  still  bear  the  name  of 
Shah  Jehanabad. 

We  now  take  up  the  work  of  description  of  the 
creations  of  the  great  Moghuls,  Akbar,  Jehangir  and 
Shah  Jehan,  after  whom  the  Moghul  Empire  went  into 
its  twilights,  and  passed  its  sunsetting  and  final  extinc- 
tion in  blood  and  darkness.  The  first  monument  to 
the  lives  of  these  three  great  Emperors  is  the  Jumma- 
Musjid,  sacred  mosque,  which  stands  on  an  elevation 
or  backbone  of  a hill  about  a quarter  of  a mile  from 
the  citadel  gate  of  Delhi.  It  is  an  object  that  magnifies 
through  study,  growing  until  it  assumes  almost  im- 
aginary proportions — “far  off  its  presence  shines.’^ 
It  is  built  upon  a rock  prepared  somewhat  after  the 
way  of  the  temple  at  Jerusalem,  the  rock  is  leveled- 


281 


up  at  its  slanting  sides  to  form  a plain  wide  enough 
for  the  area  around  the  mosque.  The  court  is  four 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  square,  is  paved  with  red 
sandstone,  laid  in  blocks,  and  is  entered  on  three  sides 
by  magnificent  sahdstone  gateways,  approached  by 
three  flights  of  red  sandstone  steps,  thirty-six  in 
number.  The  most  imposing  gateway  is  on  the  East 
side.  The  gates  are  simply  magnificent  in  proportion, 
one  of  which  is  covered  with  copper  plates  exquisitely 
wrought  into  varied  designs.  Above  this  principal  gate 
there  are  single  and  clustered  turrets  of  white  marble 
without  and  within  ; the  one  in  the  centre  is  larger  and 
higher  than  the  two  others.  In  the  centre  of  the  area 
is  a reservoir  usually  filled  with  water.  On  three 
sides  the  court  is  skirted  by  a colonnade  of  red  sand- 
stone. The  beautiful  Saracenic  arch  is  the  most 
marked  feature.  These  arches  are  indented,  are 
so  wonderfully  light  and  airy  and  stand  out  so  in  the 
light  peculiar  to  India  that  these  colonnades  remain  in 
memory  as  the  fanciful  shapes  of  a golden  dream. 
These  colonnades  have  octagonal  marble  pavilions  at 
each  corner.  On  the  west  side  is  the  mosque,  which 
is  of  oblong  form,  two  hundred  and  one  feet  in  length 
and  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  broad,  surmounted 
by  three  magnificent  bulbous  domes  of  white  mar- 
ble, contrasting  in  striking  effect  with  the  peculiar 
red  sand-stone  of  which  most  of  the  structure  is  built. 
These  three  bulbous  domes  rest  on  interior  rows  of 
pillars  of  immense  proportion. 

Beneath  the  cornice  are  ten  tablets  of  white  marble, 
each  ten  feet  long  and  two  and  a half  feet  wide,  on 
which  are  inlaid  inscriptions  in  black  marble  in  the 
Miski  characters  giving  the  names  of  the  founder, 
Shah  Jehan,  and  the  date  of  the  erection,  1626. 


282 


There  are  on  each  corner  at  the  extreme  end?  of 
the  mosque  two  lofty  minars,  each  one  hundred 
and  thirty  feet  high,  composed  of  white  marble  and 
red  sand-stone,  placed  vertically  in  alternate  strips ; 
each  lias  three  cornices,  or  rather  balconies,  one  at 
the  top  of  the  body  of  the  building,  the  other  two 
dividing  the  shafts  equidistant  until  the  domes  are 
reached,  resting  on  these  projecting  marble  cornices 
as  their  foundations.  From  these  cornices,  or  balcon- 
ies, are  columns,  the  spaces  between  being  open.  At 
the  top  of  the  graceful  columns  is  another  cornice  pro- 
portionately smaller  than  that  at  their  base,  and  on 
these  rest  the  domes,  which  are  covered  with  gilded 
copper.  The  building  cost  in  our  money  $500,000 
and  was  ten  years  in  construction,  but  no  such 
building  for  beauty  in  quality  and  finish  has  been 
erected  in  either  Europe  or  America.  The  interior  is 
paved  throughout  with  slabs  of  white  marble  three 
feet  long  by  one  and  a half  broad,  each  decorated 
jwith  a black  border,  giving  a beautiful  effect.  Part 
of  the  surfaces  of  the  inner  walls  are  covered  with 
polished  white  marble.  In  the  interior  at  equal  dis- 
tances are  three  projecting  galleries,  and  these  are 
crowned  with  light  pavilions  of  white  marble.  The 
effect  on  the  Western  imagination  is  indescribable,  a 
scene  of  transcendant  beauty  worth  a journey  around 
the  globe  to  behold.  The  style  of  architecture  in  In- 
dia impressed  us  most  of  all,  as  a triumph  of  human 
genius  and  of  the  skill  of  human  hands.  No  description 
is  adequate  to  a proper  impression  upon  the  reader, 
none  satisfies  the  writer.  Conscious  failure  will  lie  over 
all  endeavors. 


CHAPTER  XXrVHI. 


THE  FOJ^T  AND  PALACE. 

Before  us  are  the  magnificent  places  of  tyranny, 
of  cruelties,  of  tragedies,  of  war  and  of  peace. 
They  are  peaceful  enough  now  under  English  protec- 
tion ; but  it  has  cost  blood  and  treasure  without  stint. 
The  first  object  is  the  deep,  wide  moat,  out  of  which 
moisture  is  dried,  the  stains  of  blood  gone,  and  the 
dust  of  the  dead  has  either  been  washed  away  in  the 
monsoons  or  has  been  swept  away  by  simoons. 
This  moat  is  about  forty  feet  deep,  over  which 
there  is  a draw-bridge  by  which  the  famous  fort  of 
Delhi  is  entered  by  the  splendid  Delhi  gate  of  the 
palace  between  two  hexagonal  towers,  each  crowned 
with  a kiosk,  which  is  an  Indian  open  summer  house 
usually  with  a dome  overhead  resting  on  pillars.  In 
this  case  they  are  ornamental  pavilions,  built  of  the 
same  red  sand-stone  as  the  fort.  Within  the  walls 
^ is  an  area  one  mile  and  a half  in  circumference, 
including  one  hundred  acres,  more  or  Ipss.  The 
walls  of  this  fort  are  imposing,  and  in  the  times 
of  such  defence  must  have  been  prodigious,  and  are 
now  wonders  of  proportion,  minute  details  of  design 
and  finish,  and  the  only  creation  of  war  in  the 
world  that  is  beautiful.  They  are  of  the  red  sand- 
stone, in  the  greatest  perfection  in  India,  rich  and 
enduring  in  color,  and  are  forty  feet  high,  of 
masonry  and  filling,  twenty-five  to  thirty  feet  in  thick- 
ness at  the  base.  At  the  top  is  what  is  usual  in  this 
kind  of  structure  and  called  the  w^alls  of  Troy  finish. 
The  -walls  are  flanked  and  adorned  with  towers  at 

283 


284 


regular  intervals,  and  these  are  pierced  with  ports  for 
large  guns,  while  the  walls  themselves  have  only  loop 
holes  for  musketry. 

Over  the  gates  are  lookouts  for  sentinels,,  so  high 
that  they  can  see  and  safely  talk  with  those  who  have 
the  right  and  desire  to  enter.  The  cornice  over  the 
gateway  is  crowned  with  a row  of  small  white  domes 
after  the  style  peculiar  to  that  of  Shah  Jehan^ 
and  these  are  backed  by  two  very  slender  minarets, 
crowned  by  beautiful  little  dome-covered,  bird  cage* 
like  pavilions  of  the  purest  and  whitest  marble. 
Minature  pavilions  are  the  favorite  finish  of  all  mina- 
rets of  the  times.  The  Moghul  style  may  be  charac- 
terized by  its  indented  arches  and  the  genius  all 
through  to  find  places  for  pavilions.  They  are  stuck 
to  the  sides  of  the  walls  to  give  variety ; they 
crown  every  offset;  every  base  and  corner  has  its 
cupola  on  little  columns  and  its  cornice  and  exquisite 
elaborations.  This  enlivens  a tomb  or  fortress  until 
it  has  the  air  of  a palace  or  banqueting  house. 

As  the  gates  were  passed  and  a few  yards  of  ascent 
beyond,  our  sensations  were  those  of  home.  We  can 
express  the  peculiar  home  sensations  in  this  strange 
place  and  surroundings  by  the  story  of  a Dutch 
shoemaker  of  St.  Louis,  who  had  his  shop  and  old 
shoes,  family,  kitchen,  dining-room  and  parlor  in  the 
same  room.  In  the  same  department  were  the  odors 
of  onions,  garlic  and  Limburger  cheese.  He  had 
stayed  close  in  doors  all  winter,  and  after  the  wood- 
chuck had  come  out  for  good  in  the  spring  was  tempted 
to  take  a Sunday  afternoon  stroll  to  the  beer  garden. 
When  he  got  into  the  pure  air  he  fainted.  They  tried 
to  bring  him  to  life,  but  it  was  of  no  use.  They 
sent  for  his  wife,  and  when  she  saw  him  she  said,  “ He 


285 


is  not  dead.’*  Taking  a slice  of  Limburger  cheese  she 
bound  it  under  his  nose,  and  he  rallied,  enclaiming, 
‘*0,  glory  I this  is  just  like  home!”  The  likeness  go- 
ing over  this  patch  of  road  was  in  the  fact  that  it  was 
a cobble-stone  pavement  just  like  ours  in  Philadel- 
phia, and  as  we  bounced  over  it,  it  felt  “just  like  home.” 
This  rough  way  has  been  a hard  road  to  travel  at  any 
time,  for  it  is  between  walls  forty  feet  high,  full  of 
loop  holes  for  musketry  on  each  side. 

The  second  gateway  into  the  fortress  is  very  like 
the  first,  more  ornamental  and  more  threatening,  and 
opening  into  a high  covered  passageway,  built  of 
the  same  red  sand-stone.  Two  historic  statues 
originally  stood  outside  of  Music  Gate.  Bernier  saw 
them  there  in  1663.  The  story  is  that  these  colossal 
statues  were  representations  of  two  chiefs  of  Chittor, 
Jaymal  and  Fattha,  who  had  been  conquered  by 
Akbar,  and  that  Akbar  had  them  sculptured  in  honor 
and  admiration  of  their  prowess  in  the  battle.  One 
of  these  elephants  is  gone,  but  the  statues  of  the  reso- 
lute riders  are  in  the  veranda  of  the  museum.  These 
figures  are  simply  valuable  as  works  of  art,  and 
are,  perhaps,  the  only  portrait  statues  raised  in  India 
in  centuries.  The  forms  of  Jaymal  and  Fattha  were 
cut  out  of  red  sand-stone  and  are  of  life-size,  while 
the  elephants  on  which  they  sat  were  of  black  marble, 
the  housings  decorated  with  white  and  yellow  mar- 
bles. The  most  plausible  theory  of  their  existence 
is  that  Jehangir  in  a freak  of  vicarious  remorse  for 
the  massacre  of  his  kinsmen  had  the  statues  erected 
extolling  their  bravery  and  connecting  their  names 
with  the  battle  of  Chittor. 

On  each  side  of  the  entrance  are  lofty  rooms, 
fronted  with  carved  stones,  symbolical  representations 


286 


of  life  and  events,  in  which  the  officers  of  the  royal 
army  lived,  or  rather  revelled.  The  flats,  or  floors,  as 
we  would  call  them,  open  out  by  doors  into  those 
exquisite  hanging  verandas,  like  bird  nests  stuck  to 
the  wall;  often  it  could  be  only  conjecture  what  held 
them  up.  In  the  sunshine  of  Moghul  splendor  the 
lazy,  luxurious  dignitaries-in  the  army  here  smoked, 
lolled  and  slept,  fanned  by  servants  who  never  drew 
a free  breath. 

On  the  left  side  was  pointed  out  the  temporary 
habitation  of  Colonel  Ochterlong,  the  English  Coun- 
cillor at  the  court  of  Delhi,  who  resisted  the  great 
Maharatta  conqueror  Holkar,  and  forced  the  lifting 
of  the  siege,  which  he  had  so  defiantly  begun  in  1804. 
This  same  house  was  occupied  by  Captain  Douglas  at 
the  beginning  of  the  mutiny  in  1851,  who  was  the  first 
victim  to  its  heathenish  rage. 

Over  the  second  gate  is  a balcony  devoted  to  the 
sweets  of  peace — music  held  this  luxurious  outlook 
and  filled  the  area  with  joy.  It  was  the  music  house, 
where  banners  floated,  and  men  were  merry  after  vic- 
' tory  or  stirred  to  deeds  of  glory  in  war.  It  was  the 
delight  of  Shah  J ehan,  the  magnificent,  or  Aurungzebe, 
his  successor.  It  overlooked  the  place  of  assembling 
before  going  forth  to  siege  and  battle,  or  on  royal  hunt- 
ing expeditions,  surrounded  by  grandees  as  many  as  an 
army  corps,  or  celebrating  the  Emperor's  birthday, 
mounted  on  armies  of  elephants,  caparisoned  in  crimson 
velvet,  glittering  with  gold  embroideries  and  laces. 
Foreign  kings  were  often  in  the  concourse  with  as  many 
retainers  as  their  purses  and  credit  with  the  Jew 
Shylocks  would  allow.  All  these  princes  were  daz- 
zling in  the  famous  gold  cloth  of  Benares.  Those  for- 
tunate enough  to  see  the  Indian  princes  in  the  pro- 


287 


cession  at  the  fiftieth  anniversary  of  Queen  Victoria 
would  have  some  idea,  but  only  a dim  one,  of  such 
a scene,  for  the  present  is  but  the  feeblest  imitation 
of  the  gorgeous  past  of  the  great  Moghuls.  These 
royal  sportsmen  had  not  the  fine  arms  of  to-day 
that  would  make  them  more  than  equals  of  the  wild 
beasts  of  the  jungles,  but  instead  they  carried  hunt- 
ing leopards,  trained  for  capturing  the  fleetest  ani- 
mals by  cunning  and  strength;  beside  were  royal 
Bengal  tigers  in  cages  hauled  in  the  procession  to  be 
let  loose  on  an  unconquerable  wild  bufialo  or  a boar 
or  two  just  to  see  the  beauty  of  the  fight.  Within  thi& 
fort  enclosure  were  fights  of  wild  beasts  for  the  delec- 
tation of  the  royal  folk  every  day  but  Sunday ; the 
reason  for  this  Sabbatarianism,  so  far  as  we  know,  has 
not  been  given. 

From  the  gate,  Aurungzebe  went  to  the  mosque 
also  described  in  the  last  chapter,  Jumma-Musjid,. 
sacred  mosque,  on  the  first  of  the  Ramadan  fast. 
He  had  a common,  but  Oriental,  way  of  dispos- 
ing of  his  Hindu  subjects  who  might  be  sitting  or 
standing  in  his  way,  or  running  before  the  royal  pro- 
cession clamoring  for  lower  capitation  tax.  He  soon 
settled  their  grievances  by  putting  them  where  the 
wicked  cease  from  troubling  by  ordering  the  proces- 
sion of  elephants  to  trample  on  them.  This  is  one  of 
the  perquisites  of  Oriental  grandeur. 

Across  a broad  court,  unpaved  now,  the  famous 
old  canal  built  in  1650,  already  mentioned,  of  Ali 
Murdan  brings  water  from  the  Himalayas.  This  canal 
has  been  justly  famous  as  a benefaction  to  the  people 
of  all  ages.  But  at  its  side  is  a place  more  infamous 
than  it  can  ever  be  famous.  There  is  a common, 
rather  dilapidated,  brick  building,  where  the  late 


288 


Prime  Minister  lived,  near  to  which  are  three  trees 
on  a brow  of  a hill  where  English  women  from 
twenty-five  to  fifty  were  outraged  by  the  Sepoys,  and 
afterwards  hung  or  shot  and  mutilated  as  only 
these  Hindu  and  Mohammedan  fiends  had  the  im- 
perial ingenuity  to  do. 

Within  the  fort  enclosure  are  the  harems.  Halls  of 
Justice,  throne  room  and  palace.  The  Hall  of  Jus- 
tice is  called  the  Dewan  A’am.  It  is  an  open  pavilion 
built  of  red  sand-stone — a house  of  pillars  and  arches. 
The  Saracenic  arch,  adopted  by  the  great  Moghuls, 
is  like  a Gothic  arch  with  the  lower  sides  scalloped,  or 
if  a compass  were  set  on  the  lower  edge  and  a series 
of  half  circles  described  and  cut  out,  with  a diameter 
of  a foot,  and  then  a space  of  an  inch  or  more,  and 
then  another  half  circle  struck,  and  so  on  until  the 
entire  under  sides  of  the  arches  were  indented,  an 
idea  would  be  gained  of  the  characteristic  arch  of 
the  period  of  the  architectural  splendor  of  the 
great  Moghuls.  These  columns  and  arches  cross  the 
pavilion  of  justice  in  rows  about  twenty  feet  apart 
at  right  angles.  The  pillars  have  square  bases 
about  three  feet  high,  then  round  shafts  about  seven 
inches  in  diameter,  rising  gradually  to  a height  of 
twelve  to  fifteen  feet,  toward  the  centre  of  the  pavilion 
the  tops  of  the  pillars  become  square  where  the 
arches  start  from  them.  This  court  of  justice  is  on  a 
raised  platform  of  red  sand -stone,  five  feet  high,  ap- 
proached by  steps.  It  is  open  on  three  sides  and  is 
light  and  airy,  as  if  resting  on  wings.  Pillars  and 
arches  were  once  decorated  with  gilding  in  rich 
Oriental  designs.  It  is  perhaps  three  hundred  feet 
long  and  sixty  wide.  Under  this  beautiful  structure 
the  Emperors  sat  in  their  judicial  character. 


289 


In  the  middle  of  1 he  only  wall,  separating  it  from 
the  Seraglio,  there  is  a great  window,  in  front  of  which 
is  the  throne  where  the  Emperors  sat,  having  their 
sons,  if  they  had  any,  on  each  side  of  them,  and  near 
their  persons  were  eunuchs,  who  waved  peacock 
fans;  others  had  great  palm  leaves  three  feet  in 
diameter  with  handles  four  or  five  feet  long.  This 
throne  is  raised  about  ten  feet,  covered  by  a canopy, 
supported  on  four  pillars  of  white  marble.  The  whole 
of  the  wall  behind  the  throne  is  covered  by  Mosaic 
designs  in  precious  stones  of  the  most  beautiful  flowers, 
fruits,  birds  and  beasts  of  the  country,  how  much 
defaced.  This  throne  was  surrounded  by  Rajahs, 
Umrahs  and  Embassadors,  also  upon  a platform, 
enclosed  by  silver  rails,  on  which  all  stood  with 
downcast  eyes.  There  was  no  star-gazing  in  the 
courts  of  Moghul  justice,  though  not  a few  saw 
stars  before  they  were  through  with  the  ordeal. 
Not  only  was  it  court  etiquette  to  stand  with  eyes 
downcast,  but  their  arms  were  laid  across  their 
stomachs,  which  must  have  been  exceedingly  tiresome, 
for  a Hindu  paunch  is  not  distinguished  by  much  pro- 
trusion. Then  the  lesser  Umrahs  did  the  same  things, 
with  their  arms  crossed  upon  their  “bay  windows,” 
as  it  is  expressed  now-adays.  Beyond  were  the  great 
washed  and  unwashed,  the  rabble  in  which  good,  bad 
and  indifierent  struggled,  shouted  and  gesticulated  after 
the  fashion  of  the  Gold  Board  in  New  York  city, 
when  the  country  was  bleeding  to  death,  each  trying 
to  get  the  eye  of  the  Emperor  to  decide  his  case  or 
hear  his  grievance. 

To  the  multitude  ’no  Emperor  was  ever  able  to 
refuse  this  noonday  audience.  That  crowd  is  now 
worth  thinking  of,  and  an  efibrt  to  describe  how  it 


290 


appeared  two  centuries  ago.  The  people  appear  to- 
day very  much  as  they  did  then.  Nothing  has 
changed  in  India  that  could  help  itself.  Most  of  the 
heads  were  done  up  in  white  cloth,  usually  India 
muslin.  Some  had  fezes  of  the  Turks.  Flowing 
robes  were  abundant.  The  color  most  prominent 
was  white,  for  the  people  have  great  ideas  of  the 
virtues  in  what  they  call  white.  In  this  heaving 
crowd  would  be  garments  or  tatters  of  blue,  red, 
yellow  and  the  green  garments  of  the  Seriad  or 
Pilgrim.  In  the  multitude  were  a great  num- 
ber who  would  have  only  a filthy  rag  about  their 
loins — which  was  all  that  existed  between  themselves 
and  sunlight.  On  a marble  slab  in  front  of  the  throne 
the  Cazi  sat  in  Turkish  fashion  on  an  embroidered 
mat.  Before  him  was  a silver  book-stand  on  which 
was  the  Koran,  which  he  was  expounding  whenever 
law  was  needed.  The  Hindus  and  Mohammedans  are 
the  most  litigious  people  on  the  earth.  Their  lawyers 
were  there,  hawk-eyed,  beaked  and  clawed,  and 
if  there  was  any  game  some  one  of  these  capacities 
would  nab  it.  They  were  shouting  hoarsely  and 
gesticulating.  The  stranger  would  be  standing  back 
to  give  room  for  the  coming  fight,  which,  however, 
did  not  often  come.  After  shouting,  yelling,  screaming 
and  gesticulating,  and  the  decision  was  rendered,  the 
beaten  party  did  not  curse  the  judge  and  jury  and 
say,  “ I will  get  even  with  you  yet he  says,  “ God 
willed  it,  and  that’s  the  end  of  it.”  Occasionally 
there  would  be  a glint  of  mirth,  though  the  Oriental  has 
little  idea  of  it.  Only  in  the  AVest  live  wit  and  mirth, 
and  the  abilities  to  appreciate  and  enjoy  wit  and  humor 
disappear  as  we  go  to  the  Orient.  But  in  this  prin- 
cipal court  a little  would  come  to  the  surface.  An  old 


291 


traveller  reports  the  following: — A rich  widow  bowed 
before  the  throne  on  which  Bat  in  splendor  one  of  the 
Emperors.  She  was  asked  what  she  would  have  from 
his  majesty.  She  replied,  “ I have  no  complaint.  I 
only  wish  the  Emperor  would  explain  in  court  what 
kin  he  is  to  my  late  husband  that  he  inherits  the 
largest  part  of  his  estate.”  The  Emperor  saw  the 
point  and  was  amused  at  her  ingenuity  in  placing  his 
greed  through  enforced  taxation  in  the  light  of  kin- 
ship and  bequest,  and  gave  orders  to  his  tax-gatherers 
to  restore  all  that  they  had  exacted.  Behind  the 
only  wall  of  this  Dewan  A’ am  court  of  audience  is 
the  remnant  of  the  zenana. 

The  English  soldier  occupies  the  most  sacred  places 
of  the  Musselman’s  personal  religion.  The  British  sol- 
diers have  blacked  their  boots  and  cleaned  their  har- 
ness in  this  place  so  exclusive  two  hundred  years  ago. 
The  walls  are  of  red  stone,  and  there  is  an  arched 
gallery  or  veranda.  One  of  these  sand-stone  rooms, 
which  once  had  elaborate  gildings  in  designs  of 
exquisite  beauty,  is  now  bearing  testimony  to  the  unity 
and  identity  of  Mohammedanism  everywhere  in  their 
unfaltering  instinct  to  whitewash  every  thing.  If  the 
great  prophet  became  a little  foul  or  dingy  they  would 
even  treat  him  to  a coat  of  whitewash.  These  beautiful 
gilded  ceilings  with  peerless  ornamentation  are  all  cov- 
ered with  whitewash.  But  the  glory  of  this  place  can  be 
restored  if  one  has  only  the  imagination  and  patience. 
If  we  cover  the  walls  in  graceful  folds  with  crim- 
son silk  curtains,  and  fleck  the  bare  floor  with 
the  rich  colors  of  dainty  rugs  made  of  heavy  silk 
brocades,  glittering  wuth  inwoven  or  inlaid  threads 
and  designs  of  gold,  the  divans  covered  with  im- 
mense cushions  of  the  same  materials  embroidered 


292 


■with  pearls  and  gold,  this  will  give  an  idea  of  Orien- 
tal luxury,  taste  and  splendor.  It  is  said  that  one 
of  the  curtains  of  the  veranda  of  the  zenana  which 
separated  it  from  the  interior  court  cost  SI 00,000  of 
our  money. 

CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

BGYAL  PALACE  AT  DELHI. 

The  central  spot  of  the  follies  and  the  greatness  of 
the  Moghuls  is  here  reached.  Here  was  the  thea- 
tre of  oppression,  of  conspiracies,  of  tragedies,^  of  in- 
famies, staining  all  from  the  head  to  the  lowest,  who  did 
the  most  menial  services  to  which  human  beings  are  ever 
doomed — all  in  their  several  degrees  of  position  were 
alike  governed  by  the  same  spirit  and  came  at  last 
to  the  same  dark  destiny.  Passing  through  the  Hall 
of  Justice,  the  court  of  the  Dewan  Khas,  or  throne 
room,  is  the  next  object  of  wonder.  This  is  on  the 
banks  and  overlooking  the  river  Jumna,  as  broad  in 
its  full  flow  as  the  Mississippi  at  St.  Louis,  its  sand 
margins  stretching  a mile  or  more  back  on  each  side. 
The  Jumna  water  is  muddy  through  impregnation 
of  sand.  At  the  edge  of  the  bank  is  a long,  high 
terrace  on  which  stand  the  three  historic  marble 
buildings.  The  throne  room  occupies  the  centre; 
at  the  left  are  the  royal  baths  and  private  apart- 
ments of  the  Emperor ; on  the  right  side  is  the  zenana 
palace,  the  precarious  home  of  royal  ladies  who  w’ere 
for  the  time  court  favorites.  These  palaces  were  kept 
exempt  from  public  scrutiny  until  the  last  guilty  Em- 
peror had  been  exiled  by  his  own  wickedness  never 
yto  return.  The  world  then  claimed  its  own,  and  has 


293 


been  examining  the  secret  estate  ever  since,  which  is 
in  remarkably  gvood  condition.  One  walks  through 
it  as  if  he  might  be  surprised  by  meeting  some  of  the 
defunct  Emperors  at  any  moment. 

The  throne  room  is  the  chief  wonder  in  architec- 
tural design  and  in  historical  events.  It  is  a square 
pavilion  resting  on  massive  square  marble  pillars  and 
Moresque  arches  of  the  same  material,  glistening  white 
and  polished  like  a mirror.  Thirty-two  columns  sustain 
as  many  arches.  The  bases  of  the  columns  are  four 
feet  square,  with  panels  on  either  side  formed  by 
mouldings  cut  in  the  marble.  Within  these  are  birds 
and  flowers,  in  the  most  exquisite  mosaic,  Cfjmposed 
of  agates,  cornelians,  rubies,  emeralds,  malachite,  gold- 
stone,  lapis  lazuli,  turquoise,  and  so  on  through  the  list  of 
precious  stones.  Turquoise  or  cornelian  flowers  bloom 
on  stems  and  vines  of  the  purest  verd antique,  “bud  out 
with  emeralds,  leaf  out  with  malachite  and  go  twin- 
ing and  waving  about,  in  and  and  out,  up  and  over 
concave  Saracenic  arches.”  Shah  Jehan  determined 
that  all  the  columns  should  be  inlaid  in  floral  de- 
signs with  precious  stones;  but  when  one  had  been 
inlaid  three  feet  high  it  was  discovered  that  jewels 
could  not  be  obtained  in  number  and  quality  to  exe- 
cute a design  so  grand.  The  upper  sections,  as  well 
as  the  ceiling  and  cornice,  were  tastefully  gilded. 
Between  each  pair  of  the  outside  rows  of  pillars  is  a 
balustrade  of  exquisitely  wrought  marble,  carved  in 
designs  of  fret  work.  The  roof  has  at  each  corner 
a marble  belfry-like  ornament  or  kiosk,  and  between 
a gilded  dome. 

The  building  is  about  sixty  feet  long.  Under  this 
canopy  was  the  famous  Peacock  throne,  the  wonder 
of  the  world  in  its  conception,  execution  and  pro- 


294 


digious  extravagance.  The  ceiling  over  it  was  com- 
posed of  gold  and  silver  filagree  work,  taxing  to  the 
highest  the  genius  of  the  Delhi  goldsmiths,  still 
famous  for  workmanship  to  this  day.  Its  value  is  not 
estimated,  but  amounted  to  millions.  Under  this  gold 
and  silver  ceiling  was  a white  marble  platform  on 
which  this  extraordinary  expenditure  rested,  still 
standing  as  in  the  days  of  its  pavonian  splendor. 
The  Peacock  throne  is  no  more*  but  there  are  de- 
scriptions of  it  by  those  who  saw  it.  It  took  its  name 
from  having  two  peacocks  standing  with  expanded 
tails,  the  form  so  inlaid  with  diamonds,  sapphires, 
rubies,  emeralds,  pearls  and  other  precious  stones  as 
perfectly  to  represent  the  peacock  in  life  size  with  its 
wonderful  display  of  colors.  The  throne  itself  was  six 
feet  long  by  four  feet  broad,  and  stood  on  six  feet  which 
were,  with  the  body,  solid  gold  inlaid  with  rubies, 
emeralds  and  diamonds.  Over  it  was  a canopy  of 
gold  supported  by  twelve  pillars  all  richly  emblazoned 
with  costly  gems,  while  a fringe  of  pearls  ornamented 
the  borders  of  the  canopy.  The  figure  of  a parrot 
of  largest  size  carved  from  a single  emerald  stood 
between  the  two  peacocks.  On  either  side  of  the 
throne  was  an  umbrella,  an  emblem  of  Oriental  royalty, 
and  these  were  formed  of  crimson  velvet  richly  em- 
broidered and  fringed  with  pearls.  The  handles  were 
eight  feet  high  and  of  solid  gold  studded  with  diamonds. 
The  cost  in  our  money  would  be  about  thirty  millions 
of  dollars  in  gold.  The  throne  room  occupies  the  centre, 
at  the  left  are  the  royal  baths  and  private  apartments 
of  the  Emperor,  and  at  the  right  the  harem.  The 
bath  is  the  next  surprise.  The  room  is  about  thirty 
feet  square.  There  are  no  windows  except  in  the 
ceiling.  The  walls  are  of  polished  marble  of  inde- 


295 


scribable  finish  and  whiteness.  Each  side  is  adorned 
with  intricate  designs  of  flowers  and  scrolls  inlaid 
with  precious  stones.  Each  grouping  represented 
a flower  with  its  variety  of  color  produced  by  cor- 
responding colors  in  mosaics.  The  mosaics  of  the  old 
Moghuls  are  genuine.  Shams  came  in  the  decay  of 
the  Empire.  Each  side  of  the  apartment  has  a border 
of  mosaics,  and  inlaid  in  a panel  are  wondrous  group- 
ings of  cornelians,  rubies,  emeralds,  agates,  turquoise 
and  crystals,  life-like  in  color  in  designs  of  vines 
and  flowers.  Hot  baths  were  a luxury  enjoyed  in  this 
matchless  palace.  There  is  under  a low  arch  a reser- 
voir in  which  water  was  heated  from  below.  On 
one  side  was  a long  arched  alcove  with  a floor  raised, 
laid  in  gems  in  mosaics,  six  or  eight  inches  above  the 
floor  of  the  room. 

In  the  centre  of  the  floor  is  a slab  of  marble  raised 
several  inches,  and  ornamented  by  a border  exquisitely 
adorned  with  mosaics,  on  which  the  royal  bather  sat  or 
laid  or  sprawled  under  jets  and  sprays  of  water  spurt- 
ing on  him  from  all  sides  of  the  room,  which  trickled 
away  over  jeweled  settings,  wrought  into  bunch  de- 
signs of  flowers  in  glistening  stones,  like  a carpet  with 
its  rich  border.  The  water  was  caught  in  a channel 
running  all  around  the  room,  and  then  entering  a 
wider  one  was  carried  away.  Beyond  this,  across 
a corridor,  is  another  apartment  about  the  same 
size,  which  was  the  sitting-room  of  those  old  defuncts. 
It  must  have  bewildered  even  imagination  by  its 
glints  of  practical  genius  turning  the  ideal  into  the  real. 
The  stories  of  the  Arabian  Nights  do  not  so  foment 
youthful  fancies  and  their  wonders  as  do  these  the 
eyes  and  mind  of  the  beholder.  In  the  centre  of  the 
room  is  a jewel  in  the  form  of  a fountain,  four  feet 


296 


wide,  of  the  pattern  of  a scallop  shell  exquisitely 
inlaid  from  brim  to  brim,  with  a jet  of  water  fizzing 
in  the  middle,  making  rainbows  to  decorate  sides  and 
ceilings  of  this  shell-fluted  basin. 

The  visions  beyond  do  not  minimize  this  work  of 
human  genius.  Nature  seems  to  rejoice  in  human 
co-partnerships  with  herself  to  the  loftiest  effects.  The 
ancient  palace  of  Sher  Selim  Gurk  is  in  view  from 
one  of  the  marble-cased  windows,  built  by  Sher  Shah,, 
who  drove  out  the  Tamerlane  kings  and  ruled  the 
empire  sixteen  years.  Here  Morad,  the  brother  of 
Aurungzebe,  was  made  gloriously  drunk  by  his 
famous  brother  and  lay  across  his  horse  as  limp  as  a 
rag.  Morad  and  Aurungzebe  entered  into  a conspiracy 
to  dethrone  their  father.  After  this  was  done,. 
Aurungzebe  requited  his  brother  for  his  past  by 
sending  him  to  prison  for  life  in  the  fortress  of  Gwalior, 

• which  is  now  a military  store-house. 

This  is,  perhaps,  the  best  time  to  finish  the  history  of  the 
palace  as  well  as  that  of  the  last  Moghuls  who  ruled  here. 
When  the  tombs  of  old  Delhi  were  being  presented  to 
the  reader  one  was  omitted  for  this  occasion.  It  was 
that  of  Mohammed  Shah,  the  tragic  Emperor  of  Delhi, 
the  last  to  hold  audience  on  this  throne.  This  Shah’s 
army  was  only  a vain  show,  and  melted  like  snow 
in  the  tropics  before  the  hardy  veterans  of  a hundred 
battles  led  by  the  first  commander  in  Asia,  Nadir 
Shah.  Mohammed  Shah  begged  when  he  could  no 
longer  fight. 

The  Persians  agreed  to  spare  the  city  if  a certain 
sum  of  money  were  paid  for  its  ransom.  The  people 
were  so  maddened  and  senseless  in  their  rage  that  on 
the  third  day  they  attacked  the  Persian  troops  quar- 
tered in  the  city.  At  daylight  Nadir  Shah  mounted 


297 


his  horse  and  rode  through  the  city  trying  to  restore 
quiet,  but  when  he  saw  his  slain  troops  all  about,  and 
being  assaulted  himself,  he  commanded  a general 
massacre.  The  Persians  were  at  home  in  that  kind  of 
business,  it  suited  both  tastes  and  habits.  The  Shah 
surveyed  it  while  it  was  being  done  from  the  top  of 
the  mosque  in  the  Chandni  Chowk  in  wrathful  silence. 
The  city  was  fired,  and  as  the  flames  rolled  up  and 
licked  the  stars  the  doom  of  Delhi  could  be  read  in 
characters  of  flame  on  the  skies.  Blood  ran  like  a 
* torrent  down  the  gutters,  shed  by  the  cruel  hand  of 
avarice,  lust  and  vengeance. 

After  a day  of  this  slaughter  and  conflagration 
Mohammed  Shah,  Emperor  of  Delhi,  on  his  knees 
besought  Nadir  Shah  to  stop  the  blood-letting.  The 
Shah  was  moved  with  pity,  and  gave  orders  to  his 
troops  and  it  was  stayed.  Quiet  was  immediately 
restored,  but  the  city  was  searched  from  house  to 
house,  even  the  pockets  of  its  dead  were  examined  to 
find  money  to  pay  the  promised  ransom.  The  living 
suffered  the  tortures  of  the  damned  in  sorrow  over  their 
slain,  and  in  fear  of  Persian  violence,  sleep  left  their 
eyes  for  fifty-seven  days  and  nights,  while  starvation 
stood  gaunt  before  them.  The  gates  were  closed  so 
that  none  could  go  out  and  no  supplies  could  come  in, 
and  when  no  more  jewels  could  be  found  and  no  more 
wealth  of  any  kind  extracted.  Nadir  Shah  reinstated 
Mohammed  Shah  in  his  government  and  arranged  a 
marriage  between  his  son  and  Mohammed  Shah’s 
daughter. 

As  the  Persian  Emperor  departed  the  Delhians 
saw,  with  tears  in  their  eyes  and  rage  in  their  hearts, 
that  the  Persians  staggered  under  the  burdens  of  their 
ill-gotten  booty.  Through  those  grand  mountain- 


29d 


passes,  the  highways  of  conquest  for  ages,  the  wealth 
of  Delhi  departed  with  the  incomparable  Peacock 
Throne,  the  pride  and  glory  of  the  greatest  ot  the 
Moghuls  and  the  first  sign  of  their  coming  downfall. 
The  treasure  lost  was  one  hundred  and  sixty  millions 
of  our  money. 

Beyond  this  marvel  of  creative  genius  is  a beautiful 
plain  through  which  the  waters  of  the  J umna  flow 
over  their  beds  and  pillows  of  sand.  The  banks  are 
fringed  in  living  green,  and  over  the  plains  wave  the 
stately  palms,  their  feather-like  branches  being  gently 
swayed  by  the  zephyrs.  Broad  acres  of  young  wheat 
oover  the  plains,  variegated  by  the  yellow  blossoms 
of  India’s  mustard,  furnishing  oil  to  anoint  sick 
bodies,  to  keep  out  the  cold  from  their  naked  persons 
to  heal  rheumatic  ills  and  nimble  the  joints  stif- 
fening with  age.  But  the  beauties  of  an  incompar- 
able country  have  not  always  refreshed  the  eyes  gaz- 
ing through  the  windows  at  which  we  stand.  Hostile 
armies  and  beleaguering  forces  have  been  seen  through 
these  openings  with  forebodings,  fears  and  tremblings. 
Nadir  Shah’s  approaches  were  beheld  from  this  out- 
look in  1739.  Seven  years  later  Ahmed  Shah  Dowrain, 
the  Afghan  King  of  Candihar,  invaded  and  devastated 
Delhi.  Then  came  the  Mahrattas,  like  grasshoppers, 
destroying  alike  wealth  and  beauty — swift  messengers 
of  desolation.  ' 

The  Hindus  turned  their  insatiate  hate  on  the 
Mohammedans,  so  long  ruling ; they  defiled,  robbed 
and  defaced  mosques,  tombs  and  shrines.  The  silver 
and  gold  ceiling  of  the  throne  room  was  melted 
and  carried  away,  amounting  to  near  a million  of 
dollars  in  our  money.  Our  eyes  here  survey  one 
of  the  earth’s  centres  of  wicked  activities — but  few 
\ 


299 


‘ glints  of  sunshine  lie  across  these  palaces  of  the  past. 
In  these  gorgeous  palaces  the  floors  were  once  covered 
with  luxurious  cushions  and  mats,  through  the  textures 
of  which  were  woven  threads  of  gold,  curtains  draped 
the  windows  and  niches,  from  the  looms  of  Shiraz,  cost- 
ing millions,  and  all  this  designed  for  the  gratifica- 
tion of  one  poor  mortal  who  went  from  potency  into  im- 
potency,  from  Shah  Jehan,  the  magnificent,  to  Shah 
Jehan,  the  prisoner,  by  order  of  his  own  son,  in  his 
own  palace,  only  befriended  by  a beloved  daughter, 
who,  through  Christian  instruction,  had  learned  the 
command,  “Honor  thy  father  and  mother.”  This 
Christian  daughter  was  his  solace  in  his  clouded  sun- 
setting. She  was  ofiered  the  delights  and  honors  of 
her  brother’s  court,  but  preferred  to  share  her  father’s 
captivity  and  a conscience  void  of  offence. 

There  is  a dreadful  logic  in  crime,  retribution  is  not 
a matter  of  possibility,  but  of  unfailing  certainty. 
Aurungzebe  was  successful  in  the  army;  after  he  had 
slain  all  of  his  brothers  and  their  sons,  he  mounted  the 
throne  to  learn  in  fearful  facts  the  laws  of  retribution 
in  time,  quantity  and  kind.  Through  all  his  reign  of 
fifty  years  he  was  appalled  by  the  conviction  that  as 
he  had  treated  his  father,  Shah  Jehan,  so  his  sons 
would  treat  him,  and  his  fears  were  the  shadows  of 
the  facts. 

Aurungzebe,  the  usurper  of  his  father’s  throne,  was 
the  universal  genius  of  the  Moghuls.  He  was  the 
military  leader  who  both  created  and  moved  vast 
armies.  Like  William  I,,  of  Prussia,  he  had  a pas- 
sion for  big  men,  and  found  them  in  Afghanistan, 
Goorkah  Cashmere  and  Rajputana.  His  cannons 
were  managed  by  Hindus,  but  sighted  and  adjusted 
by  Europeans.  We  imagine  that  this  is  the  age  of 


300 


inoDster  guns,  but  Aurungzebe  had  a brass  gun  at 
Bejipore  fifteen  feet  long  and  four  feet  eight  inches  in 
diameter  at  the  muzzle,  the  calibre  two  feet  four 
inches,  and  weighing  forty  tons. 

It  is  reported  of  General  Sigel,  in  the  campaign  of 
West  Virginia,  when  hard  pressed  by  the  Southern 
army  and  matters  were  getting  desperate,  he  shouted  to 
one  of  his  officers,  “Why  don’t  you  bring  up  the 
shackasses  ?”  This  was  a force  of  mules  with  howitzer’ 
fastened  on  their  back.  But  Aurungzebe  had  jackasses 
for  gun-carriages  two  centuries  before.  War  elephants 
went  into  the  conflicts  of  the  times  with  miniature 
turrets  on  their  backs  filled  with  armed  men.  War 
under  this  brilliant  Moghul  Emperor  was  a family 
affair,  a home-like  occupation ; he  took  his  wives  and 
young  children  with  him  and  kept  them  in  the  camp, 
or  near  him  in  the  battle.  His  vast  armies  of  turretted 
elephants  and  armored  jackasses,  camels  bearing 
artillery  on  their  backs,  were  followed  by  baggage- 
elephants  and  camels  carrying  the  royal  households  of 
women  and  children  and  their  traps,  while  thousands 
of  liveried  men  would  run  before  these  caravans 
shouting,  “ Clear  the  way  for  his  sublime  highness  the 
king  of  the  world,  who  graciously  allows  his  sun  to 
shine  upon  us.” 

The  family  army  had  thus  in  grim  war  its  sources  of 
amusement.  A menagerie  was  a part  of  the  war  out- 
fit. There  were  lions,  the  monarchs  of  the  desert, 
great  in  their  time  and  place  in  Africa  as  Aurungzebe 
was ' in  India.  A monster  Bengal  tiger  would  be 
loosed  of  evenings  to  meet  a bull  buffalo  with  horns 
four  feet  long  and  fight  it  out  before  the  royal  house- 
hold. On  that  line  every  other  'kind  of  creature  was 
found  that  could  amuse  the  royal  army  gypsies,  or 


301 


gratify  their  instinct  for  blood.  When  the  great  Em- 
peror in  his  marches  had  reached  the  western  mountain 
heights  in  the  sunless  evenings  on  the  Malabar  Coast 
fifty  belching  cannons  with  red  mouths  and  tongues 
of  flame  announced  his  arrival  at  camp,  which 
covered  a space  of  five  miles  in  diameter,  within  this 
circle  a continuous  tent  thirty-six  hundred  feet  in  cir- 
cumference was  the  cloth  palace  where  his  majesty 
and  his  living  belongings  were  sheltered.  This  tent 
had  at  the  spacious  portals  two  elegant  pavilions  fitted 
up  in  the  same  style  as  the  royal  rooms  at  Delhi. 

These  are  but  outlines,  the  fittings  were  on  the 
same  grand  scale.  Noblemen  kept  guard.  At  the 
end  of  every  row  of  guns  were  tents  for  the  regimental 
bands.  There  was  a tent  in  which  water  was  kept  cool 
by  nitre,  one  for  smoking  and  another  for  delicacies 
for  the  palate.  There  was  a grander  one  in  which 
were  held  State  and  war  councils,  the  reception  of  for- 
eign princes,  ambassadors  and  nobles  of  the  empire. 
In  the  centre,  after  the  style  of  the  palace  of  Delhi,  was 
a throne  tent  lined  with  the  most  expensive  satins, 
velvets,  jeweled  under  the  canopy  like  glowing  stars. 
This  canopy  was  supported  by  gold  and  silver  mounted 
pillars.  The  floor  was  of  the  costliest  Persian  rugs 
and  curtains  draped  in  cloth  of  gold,  damasks  of  Per- 
sia and  China  were  spread  for  the  guests  to  walk  or 
stand  upon  according  to  their  dignity. 

We  return  again  to  the  palace  of  Shah  Jahanabad 
to  note  a few  historic  events  with  which  we  close  our 
description  of  the  city.  In  this  palace  the  Scotch 
surgeon  who  cured  the  Moghul  Emperor,  Fanokh 
Siyar,  on  the  eve  of  his  marriage  was  rewarded  by 
the  permission  of  his  employers  to  establish  a factory 
and  to  maintain  a territory  of  thirty-eight  towns  on. 


302 


the  banks  of  the  Hoogley,  which  was  the  foundatioa 
of  the  Presidency  of  Fort  William  and  all  the  present 
British  supremacy  in  India.  Dr.  Gabriel  Hamilton 
with  his  pill  bag  secured  this  brightest  gem  in  Vic- 
toria’s crown;  he  was  the  beginning  of  the  glorious 
British  Empire  on  the  East.  On  the  15th  of  Sep- 
tember, 1803,  as  the  sun  was  setting,  the  long  caval- 
cade of  General  Lake  defiled  into  the  Am  Khas, 
where  the  blinded  chief  of  Timur  was  found  seated 
under  a tattered  canopy  in  the  depths  of  penury,  and 
here  ended  the  Moghul  dynasty  in  1857,  Its  glory 
and  shame  lie  buried  together.  It  committed  suicide 
in  the  cruelties  of  the  mutiny,  the  monumental  horror 
of  earth. 

CHAPTER  XXIX. 

TEE  SEPOY  MUTINY  AT  DELHI. 

The  end  of  the  great  Moghul  dynasty  confronts 
the  world  in  history,  for  while  it  ruled  supreme 
in  India  it  was  her  most  brilliant  period.  These 
Tartars  entered  the  country  poor,  gradually  over- 
came the  natives  until  they  established  an  Empire, 
ruling  three^  hundred  and  thirty  years,  and  increasing 
the  number  of  the  followers  of  Islam  to  forty  mil-' 
lions.  In  war,  in  rule,  in  superb  courts  and  equi- 
pages, in  architecture,  they  reached  the  acme  of 
national  greatness.  But  the  end  came,  the  splendid 
Empire  waned,  the  bravery  of  the  soldier  was  con- 
sumed by  the  magnificent  luxury  and  consequent  las- 
situde of  the  courts,  and  effeminacy  took  the  life  out  of 
the  kings  and  nobles.  The  heroism  even  of  a false 
religion  is  better  than  none.  This  departed  in  the 


303 


crimes  nurtured  at  the  very  altars  of  their  faith. 
The  wealth  of  the  Empire  decayed,  poverty  among; 
the  people  became  their  normal  condition,  dimmed  the 
splendor  of  the  court,  and  consumed  the  possibilities 
of  rule  on  the  one  hand,  or  loyalty  on  the  other. 
Feebleness  and  the  debilities  of  a graceless  old  age 
became  the  heritage  of  the  heirs  of  this  race  of  Em- 
perors, and  following  this  was  the  too  natural  dispo- 
sition to  lay  on  others  the  effects  of  men’s  own  mis- 
doings, so  the  last  of  these  rulers  did  nothing  but 
blame  the  English  for  the  decay  of  their  splendor,  and 
to  conspire  and  make  plots  for  the  execution  of  their 
fiendish  purposes  was  the  business  of  life  and  the 
consummation  of  its  tragic  end. 

The  storm  had  hung  only  as  a mist  in  the  air,  por- 
tentious,  but  not  alarming.  The  causes  of  the  Sepoy 
uprising  against  English  rule  had  been  at  work 
so  long  that  men  had  ceased  to  observe  them,  and 
when  the  tornado  burst  they  were  too  confounded  te 
do  more  than  stand  dumb  under  its  pitiless  disasters. 
There  was  no  resistance  because  the  English  had  put 
themselves  asleep  in  the  delusion  that  English  suprem- 
acy had  been  so  much  better  for  the  natives  than  their 
own  that  they  must  be  in  love  with  it.  How  stupid  not 
to  know  any  thing  from  the  instincts  of  human  nature, 
or  to  be  enlightened  by  the  unvarying  habits  of  the 
conquered  as  they  appear  in  history  or  as  they  had 
come  to  the  English  themselves.  The  Southern  people 
of  the  United  States  deluded  themselves  in  the  same 
way — because  they  had  been  good  to  the  slaves 
they  believed  that  the  instinct  of  freedom  and  self- 
government  had  perished  out  of  heart  and  remem- 
brance. They  learned  the  truth  as  they  saw  them 
in  the  front  ranks  of  hostile  armies,  forgetful  of 


304 


the  kindness  or  relations  of  the  past.  Men  are  car- 
ried like  straws  on  a summer’s  freshet  before  the  in- 
born love  of  nationality  and  hatred  of  foreign  or 
domestic  oppression,  however  good  it  may  be. 

Discontent  was  in  the  hearts  of  both  Mohammedan 
and  Hindu  peoples  of  India,  who  had  caught  the  infec- 
tion, which  soon  went  into  an  epidemic.  The  English 
had  deferred  to  their  religion  and  had  tried  the  experi- 
ment of  a good  government  to  a people  with  a religion 
hostile  to  all  government  by  equities  among  men.  A 
caste-cursed  people  were  petted  and  deferred  to,  and 
the  English  conscience  was  debauched  in  the  vile  ser- 
vice to  political  expediency.  The  English  govern- 
ment without  Christianity  is  no  better  than  either 
Hindu  or  Mohammedan.  With  jut  the  spirit  and 
progress  of  Christianity  it  is  the  veriest  sham  that 
ever  invited  men  into  its  confidence  to  be  deceived. 
The  East  India  Company  was  a corporation  without 
a soul,  it  had  not  in  it  even  the  instinct  of  self-preser- 
vation. Greed  was  its  purpose,  its  policy,  its  religion, 
and  hypocrisy  its  genius  of  government. 

This  Company  pretended  to  have  so  much  respect 
for,  and  confidence  in,  native  heathenism  that  it 
persecuted  Christianity,  in  other  words  it  made  war 
on  its  own  life.  Caste  was  not  only  respected,  but  be- 
came the  practical  law  of  the  army.  The  natives 
must  have  caste  privileges  which  Englishmen  would 
not  think  to  ask,  so  discipline  was  severe  enough 
on  Europeans,  but  a convenience  to  caste  and 
race  demands.  These  concessions  brought  only  popu- 
lar contempt,  the  motives  were  understood.  They 
were  construed  as  signs  of  weakness,  as  they  were.  In 
the  early  days  of  1857  came  the  mutteringsof  mutiny, 
at  first  only  in  whisperings,  but  it  was  not  long  until 


306 


they  were  as  loud  as  the  seven  thunders.  The  first 
sign  was  not  considered  worth  the  suggestion  of  a 
fear  or  its  security.  By  means  of  Chupatties  (cakes  of 
flour  and  water)  circulated  mysteriously  through  the 
Isorth-west  provinces,  a religious  proclamation  was 
made,  a veritable  Indian  bull  of  arousement  to 
the  faithful  Mohammedans  was  sent  forth  from 
the  Shah  in  Shah,  the  spiritual  head  of  the  faith- 
ful, calling  on  the  true  worshippers  of  the  prophet 
to  extinguish  all  the  “Feringhees,’’  or  foreigners. 
In  Delhi  treasonable  placards  were  posted  threat- 
ening violence,  indicating  plainly  the  attitude  of 
the  Mohammedan  devils  of  the  centuries.  In  chronic 
irritation  every  trifle  is  seized  upon  as  a pretext 
for  treason.  The  Enfield  rifle  had  been  intro- 
duced into  the  native  army  with  its  greased  cartridge, 
and  this  served  religious  rancor  well.  To  the  super- 
stitious Mohammedan  soldiery  it  was  represented  that 
it  was  hog’s  lard,  an  insult  to  their  religion  by  the 
infidel  dogs,  the  English ; and  to  the  Hindus,  who 
worship  the  cow,  it  was  represented  as  cow’s  grease, 
and  this  was  a mortal  offence  that  they  should  give 
countenance  to  the  destruction  of  sacred  life.  To 
others  the  biting  ofif  the  end  of  the  cartridge  broke 
their  caste.  These  things  were  not  causes,  but  irritat- 
ing incidents. 

The  cause  was  hatred  to  foreigners  and  a desire  for 
national  liberty  and  rule.  General  Anson,  the  Comman- 
der-in-Chief,  did  in  times  of  danger  what  ought  to  have 
been  done  from  the  first,  snubbed  caste  and  was  hostile 
to  the  beastly  devotions  of  the  natives.  The  storm  be- 
gan with  sharp  thunder  on  the  margins  of  the  cloud, 
and  the  first  indicative  demonstration  was  at  Meerut, 
thirty-two  miles  from  Delhi.  Here  were  stationed 


306 


the  Sixth  Dragoon  Guards,  the  first  battalion  of  Her 
Majesty’s  Sixtieth  Rifles,  and  other  European  troops, 
amounting  to  1,800,  besides  sappers  and  miners  and 
about  2,900  Sepoys  or  native  soldiers.  On  the  23d  of 
April  the  skirmishers  of  the  Third  Cavalry,  on  parade, 
refused  to  touch  the  new  cartridges,  though  they  had 
been  instructed,  as  a concession,  to  tear  the  ends  with 
their  fingers.  The  eighty-five  mutineers  were  tried  and 
found  guilty  and  punished,  which  only  exasperated  the 
Sepoys  and  citizens,  and  within  thirty-six  hours  Meerut 
was  drenched  with  blood,  and  on  the  evening  of  the  next 
< day  the  native  troops  were  in  general  revolt;  they 
liberated  their  companions  in  irons,  shot  down  their 
officers,  and  the  station  was  given  up  to  fire,  massa- 
cre and  blood-shedding.  The  English  who  had  such 
foolish  confidence  in  the  Sepoys  were  dumb  as  well  as 
helpless.  Their  very  weakness  tempted  the  rebels. 
There  was  no  commander  for  the  more  than  eighteen 
hundred  Englishmen  who  might  have  held  the  insur- 
gents in  check  with  half  the  bravery  that  finally  con- 
quered them.  If  the  trouble  in  Meerut  had  been 
quieted  it  would  have  averted  the  bloody  crisis  which 
so  soon  came. 

The  mutineers  advanced  on  Delhi,  Monday,  May 
11th,  1857 — a kind  of  military  rabble — some  were  in 
full  uniform  with  medals  on  their  breasts  awarded  for 
bravery  in  the  British  service.  The  troopers  were 
followed  by  a large  body  of  infantry  in  dust-soiled  uni- 
form and  armed  with  bayonets.  They  marched  on 
the  city  in  a disorderly  mob,  calling  in  the  name  of 
their  religion  to  their  countrymen  in  the  British  com- 
mand, to  throw  off  the  yoke  of  the  “ Feringhee,”  and 
to  reinstate  their  own  princes.  The  troops  at  once 
fraternized  with  them  and  left  the  British  officers 


307 


standing  in  a group  by  themselves,  who  were  soon  shot 
down,  hacked  and  picked  with  swords  until  life  was 
extinct.  The  next  victims  were  Captain  Douglass 
and  Rev.  Mr.  Jennings,  with  his  daughter — nineteen 
years  old — whose  sufferings  are  beyond  description. 

The  massacre  then  extended  to  the  residences  of 
the  Europeans,  and  their  goods  were  plundered. 
No  mercy  was  shown  to  any  age  or  condition. 
Delicately  reared  women  with  their  daughters  were 
stripped,  turned  into  the  streets,  beaten  and  covered 
with  filth  and  given  over  to  the  beastliness  of  the  mob 
until  death  or  madness  came  to  their  relief.  A few 
took  shelter  in  a mosque  and  defended  themselves,  but 
were  without  food  or  water.  They  surrendered  to  a 
native  guard  upon  his  pledge  to  take  them  to  the 
king. 

An  oath  was  extracted  from  this  guard,  but  what 
were  oaths  in  the  lips  of  these  cowardly  villains. 
The  arms  of  the  helpless  Europeans  were  surrendered, 
and  their  tribulation  came  with  a vengeance;  all  wa- 
ter was  taken  from  them  and  their  famishing  children. 
This  was  but  the  beginning  of  sorrows,  for  the  whole 
party  of  eleven  children,  eight  ladies  and  eight  gentle- 
men were  driven  to  cattle  pens,  placed  in  a row 
and  shot.  A mother  entreated  one  of  the  Sepoys 
to  give  her  child  some  water,  even  if  they  killed  her. 
This  request  was  answered  by  snatching  the  child  from 
her  arms  and  dashing  its  braiue  out  before  her  face 
on  the  pavement.  This  was  the  sport  of  the  hour  and 
power  of  the  fiends  of  darkness.  Devils  danced  on  tip 
hoof  and  with  horns  expectant,  and  the  abyss  roared 
with  ineffable  delight.  The  interior  of  Delhi  was  a ^ 
pandemonium.  Sir  Theophilus  Metcalf,  the  political 
agent,  assisted  by  Lieutenant  Willoughby,  undertook 


303 


the  defence  of  the  national  magazine,  in  which  were 
vast  stores  of  ammunition  and  military  equipments. 

The  doors  were  closed,  and  all  else,  so  far  as  possi- 
ble, put  in  a state  of  siege,  guns  were  placed  in  posi- 
tion, and  the  plucky  little  garrison  of  seven  determined 
to  save  themselves  and  their  helpless  countrymen,  or 
sell  their  lives  as  dearly  as  possible  to  their  foes.  They 
were  summoned  to  surrender,  which  meant  only  brutal 
butchery.  To  the  summons  they  gave  no  heed,  but 
their  native  servants  clambered  over  the  walls, 
joined  their  foes  and  informed  them  of  their  helpless 
condition.  The  Sepoys  began  climbing  up  the  walls 
by  ladders  furnished  by  the  last  Moghul  Mohammed 
Bahadur,  the  infamous,  by  whose  perfidy  this  soul- 
curdling  butchery  reached  its  finale. 

AYhen  the  brave  seven  found  that  they  were  to  be 
overwhelmed  they  determined,  like  Samson,  that  the 
last  act  in  the  drama  of  life  should  be  its  crowning 
tragedy.  There  was  a dull  rumbling  and  a swaying 
of  the  foundations  of  the  earth.  The  shock  might 
have  been  felt  in  other  worlds,  the  cloudless  sky  was 
overcast,  the  wild  screams  and  groans  of  man  and 
beast  rolled  up  into  the  arches  of  the  skies,  and  perdi- 
tion groaned  under  one  defeat,  at  least,  when  it  was 
known  what  the  brave  seven  had  done. 

The  palace  of  the  glory  of  the  Moghuls  was  wrap- 
ped in  smoke  and  flame,  and  the  sulphurous  fames  of 
the  pit  strangled  those  W’hose  forms  had  not  been  anni- 
hilated. About  two  thousand  of  these  mutinous  wretches 
perished  by  this  heroic  act  of  the  garrison  ; fi)ur  of  the 
English  escaped  and  the  rest  perished  by  the  Sepoys. 
A flag-staff  tower  near  the  gate  bscame  a shelter  for  a 
few  Europeans,  from  which  ail  movements  could  be 
seen  and  when  they  beheld  the  destruction  of  the  maga- 


309 


zine,  all  hope  of  safety  in  that  place  was  abandoned  and 
each  was  exhorted  to  escape  by  any  possible  way. 
The  officer  commanding  sent  them  out  singly  and 
waited  until  all  were  gone — he  himself  was  lost.  The 
scattered  remnants  had  to  endure  indescribable  horrors ; 
but  one  single  glint  of  sunshine  forced  its  way  into 
the  horrible  scene.  It  is  to  the  honor  of  the  Brah- 
mins, not  so  brutal  as  the  infernal  Mohammedans,  that 
they  did  have  compassion  upon  them.  Let  it  be  written 
in  letters  of  gold  to  mitigate  the  eclipsed  pages  of 
this  history,  they  followed  the  injunction  of  Chris- 
tianity, “ If  thine  enemy  hunger,  feed  him,”  sheltered 
and  sustained  them  until  they  were  rescued  by  the 
British  troops. 

Two  escaping  fugitives,  an  .officer  and  his  wife, 
were  overtaken  by  the  Sepoys,  who  tied  them  to 
trees  and  tortured  their  children  to  death  by  fiendish 
ingenuity ; the  flesh  was  cut  from  their  dead  bodies 
and  forced  down  the  throats  of  parents  ; the  wife  was 
then  brutally  dishonored  in  the  presence  of  her  hus-, 
band,  who  was  powerless  to  help  her.  The  hus- 
band was  mutilated  in  a manner  too  indecent  to 
describe,  and  at  last  both  were  burned  to  death. 
Beauty  was  a prize  of  fiendish  delight  an d^  was 
tortured  all  the  more  for  its  divii^e  gift.  Two 
beautiful  young  English  women  were  seized,  denuded 
entirely  of  their  clothing,  tied  to  a cart,  dragged  to  a 
bazaar  and  were  dishonored  by  their  beastly  captors 
and  soon  died  of  the  abuse  of  the  mob.  Forty-eight 
females,  delicately  reared,  mostly  from  ten  to  fourteen, 
were  publicly  outraged  and  kept  for  the  abominable 
abuse  of  the  mob  for  a week.  They  were  then 
stripped  and  given  over  to  the  unspeakable  shame  of 
the  lowest  wretches  of  Delhi.  Afterwards  their 


310 


breasts,  fingers  and  noses  were  cut  off,  and  then  came 
the  blissful  relief  of  death  from  dishonor  that  would 
clasp  death  in  transports  of  delight.  No  ray  of  mercy 
gleamed  in  all  those  cruel  scenes,  from  which  hell 
might  have  begged  a place  to  hide  itself 

The  officer  who  witnessed  these  scenes  in  horror, 
in  wrath,  as  holy  as  the  fires  on  heaven’s  altar,  un- 
burdened his  soul  in  such  words  as  these : — “ Can 
you  wonder  that  in  the  presence  of  many  such  scenes 
as  these  we  feel  more  like  fiends  than  men.  Our  fellows 
have  crossed  their  bayonets  and  sworn  to  give  no  quar- 
ter, and  I pray  that  God  may  give  me  health  and 
strength  until  we  settle  with  these  scoundrels.”  That 
any  escaped  to  tell  the  story  of  outrage,  of  cruel- 
ties, of  unspeakable  dishonor,  of  torturing  death  is 
simply  miraculous,  for  the  mutineers  were  furious  and 
their  barbarities  horrible  and  indescribable.  Not  a 
single  European  nor  Chiistian  was  left  in  the  city. 
The  Moghul  Empire  was  swimming  in  Christian  blood. 
The  wheels  of  the  chariot  of  vengeance  turn  slowly  on 
their  axles,  and  sometimes  seem  to  drive  heavily,  but 
vengeance  belongeth  unto  God,  who  neither  slumbers 
nor  sleeps,  all  else  does,  and  God  overtakes  the  guilty 
while  they  sleep. 


CHAPTER  XXX. 


THE  SIEGE  AND  CAPTURE  OF  DELHI. 

IT  would  be  more  agreeable  to  turn  to  other  themes, 
but  there  is  a sense  of  unsatisfied  justice  which 
rebels  at  the  triumph  of  outrage.  The  reign  of 
terror  was  not  long  if  measured  by  weeks  and  days, 
but  long  to  those  impatient  for  vengeance.  The  Brit- 
ish soldier  loves  his  kind — his  race  is  next  to  himself. 
He  was  impatient  with  even  necessary  delays.  A 
word  of  explanation  is  needed  in  order  to  estimate 
both  the  difficulties  and  heroisms  of  the  few  brave 
Britons  and  their  allies,  the  Sikhs,  who  turned  the 
captivity  and  avenged  the  blood  of  their  slaughtered 
countrymen. 

The  fort  was  a strong  one  for  the  time.  Holkar 
with  an  army  of  twenty  thousand  with  one  hundred 
pieces  of  cannon  in  vain  beleaguered  these  walls  for 
nine  days  a half  a century  earlier.  They  had  been 
greatly  strengthened  and  finished  a few  months 
before  the  mutiny.  Early  on  the  morning  of  May 
11th  the  revolted  troopers  of  the  Third  Bengal 
Cavalry,  who  had  escaped  from  their  punishment  at 
Meerut,  crossed  the  bridge  of  boats  and  entered  upon 
their  bloody  work,  which  has  been  described  as  far  as 
human  feelings  can  endure.  A small  avenging  force 
came  on  the  8th  of  June  into  the  presence  of 
the  bleaching  bones  of  their  countrymen — many 
scattered,  never  to  be  gathered,  as  the  beasts  or 
the  blazing  sun  and  decay  had  left  them.  The 
assailants  were  confronted,  the  line  extending  from 
the  water  bastion  to  the  Cabul  gate.  A siege  was 

311 


312 


impossible  in  the  intolerable  heat;  what  could  be 
done  had  to  be  done  quickly.  Reinforcements  barely 
met  the  losses  by  disease  and  death  and  the  twenty-iour 
desperate  sorties  by  the  besieged.  When  the  final 
assault  was  made  there  were  twenty-five  hundred  sick 
of  the  British  forces.  Sir  John  Lawrence,  the  best  and 
grandest  man  in  British  India,  sent  his  last  troops,  but 
with  them  one  that  could  himself  put  ten  thousand  to 
flight,  the  hero  General  John  Kicholson.  “Now  or 
never”  was  the  command  of  the  illustrious  chief,  Law- 
rence, to  the  great  frontier  soldier  coming  to  change 
the  destiny  of  India  forever.  The  future  of  India 
lay  in  two  or  three  great  minds  and  in  the  valor  of 
seven  thousand  as  brave  men  as  ever  trod  the  earth 
in  a time  of  national  peril. 

It  was  now  the  8th  of  September,  and  from  this  ta 
the  13th  the  guns  of  Britain  spent  their  force  upon 
the  northern  walls.  Night  and  day  the  earth  trem- 
bled under  the  vibrations  of  fifty  guns  in  position  ta 
do  all  possible  mischief.  In  the  Kudsia  garden,  on 
the  river  bank.  Tombs  had  a battery  of  ten  mortars ; 
Scott  had  another  battery  at  the  Custom  House.  The 
guns  in  front  bore  down  in  fiery  hail  on  the  Cashmere 
bastions,  separated  from  them  only  by  seven  hundred 
yards.  Other  batteries  were  conveying  destructive 
messages  from  the  residency  and  the  Hindu  Raos 
house  on  the  highest  ridge  running  into  the  city., 
Two  breaches  appeared  on  the  evening  of  the  13th, 
one  at  the  Cashmere  bastion  and  the  other  at  the 
water  gate.  If  these  breaches  were  used  and  the 
Cashmere  gate  held  by  a third  column,  supported 
on  the  rear  and  right  flank,  all  the  columns  might 
meet  at  the  barbican  of  the  palace  within. 


313 


The  next  morning  was  still.  It  seemed  as  if  the 
wrath  of  man  in  fire,  and  in  thunder  and  smoke,  had  ex- 
hausted itself.  But  it  w^as  a dead,  oppressive,  ominous 
stillness,  a presage  of  a coming  storm.  The  sixty 
rifles  by  previous  arrangement  rushed  to  cover  the 
advance,  and  the  brave  Salkeld  and  Homes,  of  the 
Bengal  engineers,  moved  forward  accompanied  by 
non-commissioned  officers,  buglers  and  powder  car- 
riers, to  blow  up  the  Cashmere  Gate.  These  were 
followed  by  a storming  party  one  hundred  and  fifty 
strong.  Homes  and  his  party  stole  upon  the  outer  gate 
almost  unobserved,  though  crossing  a ditch  with  great 
difficulty  between,  and  unloaded  their  bags  of  powder 
without  injury.  The  next  detail,  led  by  Salkeld,. 
moved  toward  the  gate  with  their  four  bags  of  powder 
and  lighted  portfire.  By  this  time  the  enemy  had  com- 
prehended the  purpose  of  the  movement  and  the  result 
was  a deadly  fire  from  the  wicket  gate  near  by.- 
Salkeld  was  able  to  put  his  bags  in  place  but  was  shot 
through  the  arm  and  leg,  and  fell  helpless  on  the 
bridge,  but  had  presence  of  mind  and  pluck  to  hand 
on  the  portfire  to  Sergeant  Burgess,  telling  him  to 
light  the  fuse,  who,  before  he  could  move,  was  shot 
dead.  Sergeant  Carmichal  took  up  the  portfire  and 
moved  forward,  succeeded  in  lighting  the  fuse,  and 
fell  mortally  wounded.  Sergeant  Smith  rushed 
unto  the  place  and  duty  of  his  de^d  comrade  and 
hastened  to  light  it,  but  saw  that  the  burning  fuse  was 
already  sputtering  on  to  its  appointed  destiny  and  threw 
himself  into  the  ditch,  if  possible,  to  escape  what  he 
saw  coming. 

It  was  but  a moment  when  India’s  destiny  was  decided 
and  the  avengers  of  blood  were  hot  on  the  trail  of  the 
murderous  villains  who  had  slain  and  outraged  tbeir 


314 


kindred  and  countrymen.  There  was  an  explosion 
which  shook  both  heaven  and  earth,  shattering  the 
massive  gate  that  had  withstood  the  sieges  and  storms 
of  centuries.  The  bugle  with  one  loud  blast  sum- 
moned the  heroes  to  the  bloody  personal  encounter,  who 
advanced  with  a cheer  that  sent  terror  into  guilty  souls, 
and  the  mutinous  villains  realized  that  the  time  of  their 
tribulation  had  come.  It  would  be  impossible  to  depict 
the  scenes  that  followed.  It  is  enough  to  say  that 
the  Britons  were  not  laggard  to  punish  outrages  which 
put  the  world  aghast.  They  did  their  duty  and  taught 
a lesson  that  will  last  for  ages.  It  is  astonishing  how 
reluctant  both  English  and  natives  are  to  refer  to  the 
dreadful  days  of  vengeance  in  Delhi.  But  the  Brit- 
ish soldier  never  inflicts  more  punishment  than  is 
just  and  salutary.  He  is  merciful  as  well  as  just. 
Those  gates  still  show  the  marks  of  that  terrible  vic- 
tory. We  entered  the  city  through  this  gate,  where 
so  many  heroes  offered  up  their  lives  to  teach  all  con- 
spirators and  mutineers  and  outragers  of  women  and 
murderers  of  children  that  the  vengeance  of  the  Saxon 
when  maddened  by  a just  cause  is  terrific.  -But  it 
cost  precious  life.  The  brave  Salkeld  died  of  his 
wounds.  Homes,  after  passing  the  fiery  ordeal  of  that 
day,  met  his  death  later  through  a contemptible  cause. 
General  Nicholson,  of  whom  the  Punjab  government 
recorded  that  but  for  him  Delhi  would  not  have  fallen, 
gained  immortality  in  dying  at  the  age  of  thirty-five. 

After  the  Cashmere  Gate  had  been  captured  he  was 
proceeding  to  open  a way  parallel  to  the  ramparts. 
After  capturing  Cabul  Gate  a fatal  delay  was  experi- 
enced by  the  fire  from  a Sepoy  rampart  armed  with 
one  gun.  While  waving  his  men  on  to  its  capture 
his  splendid  person  was  exposed  to  an  enfilading  fire 


315 


irom  the  windows  along  the  lane,  and  he  was  mortally 
wounded  and  borne  to  the  rear.  The  hero  died  spend- 
ing his  last  breaths  in  cheering  his  men  to  finish  the 
terrible  work  God  and  their  country  had  given  them 
to  do. 

The  history  of  the  world  does  not  possess  a page 
more  lustrous  in  noble  deeds,  in  death-facing  and 
death-relieving  heroisms.  No  results  to  compare  with 
those  gained  in  this  siege  were  ever  wrought  by  men, 
«o  few,  so  fearless,  so  sublime  in  humanities  and  loy- 
alty to  country.  Seven  thousand  troops  were  all  that 
the  avenging  army  could  raise,  and  these  had  to  meet 
sixty  thousand,  entrenched  in  an  almost  impregnable 
fortress  well  provisioned,  furnished  with  all  that  the  art' 
of  war  and  a great  country  could  give.  The  capture 
brought  events  quick  in  succession  which  determined 
the  destinies  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  millions  of  people, 
and  placed  India  on  the  rising  plain  of  national  re- 
demption and  glory. 

The  days  following  witnessed  many  scenes  of  retri- 
bution well  deserved,  and  for  which  no  human  being 
with  outraged  feelings  could  be  greatly  condemned. 
Search  was  made  for  the  members  of  the  reigning 
family.  The  word  came  to  the  vigilant  conquerors 
that  they  were  in  the  Tomb  of  Humayun,  already 
described,  and  now  to  become  a tragic  spot  in  the 
most  shocking  conspiracies  and  atrocities  ever  recorded 
on  the  pages  of  history.  Captain  Hodon,  of  the  Royal 
Guards,  found  the  lair  of  these  ferocious  beasts.  He 
had  the  tomb  surrounded,  so  that  none  could  escape. 
He  then  sent  into  the  great  tomb  of  their  greater 
ancestor  one  of  the  inferior  scions  of  the  royal  family, 
whose  life  had  been  promised  him  to  say  that  the  Cap- 
tain had  come  to  seize  the  Shah-Jahads,  the  Emperor’s 


316 


sons,  for  punishment,  and  would  capture  them  dead 
or  alive. 

After  two  hours  of  wordy  strife  they  made  their 
appearance,  asking  if  their  lives  had  been  promised 
them  by  the  government.  They  were  answered  in  an 
awful  monosyllable,  “ No !”  Having  secured  them  they 
were  sent  toward  the  city  under  guard.  The  captain 
with  the  rest  of  his  men  made  an  examination  of  the 
tomb,  in  wdiich  and  about,  in  the  gardens,  he  found 
not  less  than  seven  thousand  people — the  lowest  of 
their  kind ; the  sewage  of  the  city.  The  surrender  of 
arms  of  every  kind  was  summarily  demanded.  Strange 
to  say,  such  is  the  power  of  the  voice  and  presence  of  a 
brave  Saxon  that  they  instantly  obeyed  and  brought  out 
about  five  thousand  swoids  and  more  than  that  number 
of  fire-arms,  besides  horses  and  bullocks  and  covered 
carts.  These  were  arranged  in  the  centre  and  a guard 
was  placed  over  them.  After  this  was  done  attention 
was  given  to  the  cart-loads  of  nobility  which  had 
started  toward  the  palace.  By  this  time  the  mob  was 
bent  on  rescuing  their  princes  out  of  the  bullock  carts. 
They  were  assaulting  the  guards  who  were  defending 
themselves  and  the  carts  of  royal  lading.  Captain 
Hodon,  seeing  the  purpose  and  danger,  rode  into  the 
mob  and  commanding  them  to  desist,  which  t^ey  did 
not  instantly  obey,  seized  a carbine  from  one  of  the 
guard,  made  short  and  final  work  with  the  idols  of 
the  mob,  the  fag-ends  of  the  Moghuls,  whom  he  shot 
one  after  the  other.  Their  bodies  were  hauled  in 
their  blood,  in  the  bullock  carts,  to  Delhi  and  exposed 
to  public  view. 

The  end  was  horrible,  but  their  crimes  beggar 
description.  They  inaugurated  the  mutiny  and  did 
more  than  their  share  in  instigating  the  butcheries. 


317 


after  dishonoring  English  women  and  completing  the 
destruction  of  helpless  children. 

With  the  end  of  the  last  Moghul  Emperor  came 
one  of  the  surprises  of  history.  He,  now  near  ninety 
years  of  age,  was  put  on  trial  for  treason  in  the  great 
hall  of  audience  of  the  palace,  which  lasted  through 
nineteen  days,  and  found  guilty  in  the  Dewanee  Khas, 
and  sentenced  to  perpetual  exile.  He  died  in  Ran- 
goon in  1861,  the  last  of  the  Tamerlanes  and  last  of 
the  Moghuls.  The  paths  of  glory  came  to  an  abrupt 
and  tragic  termination.  Thus  ended  the  greatest 
dynasty  earth  ever  saw,  which  had  held  sway  for 
eight  hundred  years,  and  now  lay  dead  and  limp 
under  British  military  power.  In  the  great  palace 
of  the  Moghuls  a strange,  all-conquering  race  sang 
in  triumph,  “God  Save  the  Queen.”  Above  the 
crown  of  Britain,  whose  true  lustre  is  but  the  halo 
of  the  divine  “head  over  all,  God  blessed  forever,” 
was  the  crown  of  redeemed  India  placed  on  Christ- 
mas day,  1857.  Christian  worship  was  held  in  the 
pride  and  glory  of  Mohammedanism,  the  Hewanee 
Khas,  when  the  coronation  hymn  was  sung. 

“All  hail  the  power  of  Jesus’  name, 

Let  angels  prostrate  fall, 

Bring  forth  the  royal  diadem 
And  crown  him  Lord  of  all.” 

The  sublimest  victory  ever  yet  achieved  by  the  Son 
of  God  over  the  enemies  of  his  martyr  church.  “ 0 
Kazarene,  thou  has  conquered  at  last.”  A few  words 
will  suffice  to  show  that  this  is  not  an  idle  boast.  In 
Delhi  there  are  prosperous  missions  in  the  hands  of 
the  Society  for  the  Propagation  of  the  Gospel. 

The  city  has  been  slow  to  give  up  its  traditions. 
Here  of  all  India  the  populace  is  saturated  by  hatred 


318 


of  Christianity,  embittered,  no  doubt,  by  the  defeat, 
and  the  awful  retribution  which  came  upon  them.  The 
natives  of  Delhi  are  proud  and  self-satisfied,  with  a 
chronic  detestation  for  foreigners  and  their  religion. 
Bat  progress  has  been  made  in  Delhi;  the  martyr 
blood  shed  here  is  beginning  to  show  signs  of  spiritual 
conquest.  The  chief  work  was  begun  in  1854  by  the 
Society  for  the  Propagation  of  the  Gospel  in  London, 
and  made  hopeful  progress  until  it  was  destroyed  by 
the  mutiny,  in  which  the  chaplain  and  a catechist 
were  put  to  death  by  the  rebels.  But  the  work  was 
again  started  amid  the  ruins  of  life  and  property  and 
has  prospered  since. 

In  1877  the  Cambridge  Mission,  in  connection  with 
the  Society  already  on  the  ground,  was  opened,  which 
originated  in  the  desire  of  many  resident  members  of 
the  University  to  connect  Cambridge  with  some  char- 
acteristic missionary  work.  The  special  objects  of  this 
Mission  are  defined  thus: — “To  afford  means  for 
higher  education  of  young  native  Christians  and  can- 
didates for  Holy  Orders,  to  offer  the  advantages  of  a 
Christian  home  to  candidates  sent  from  mission  schools 
to  the  Government  College, 'and  through  literary  and 
other  labors  to  reach  the  more  thoughtful  of  the 
natives.”  The  labors  of  these  devoted  and  highly 
educated  men  have  as  yet  been  mostly  in  seed-sowing, 
but  seeds  must  come  up,  in  no  conditions  do  they  all 
perish.  Much  good  has  already  been  done  and  there 
is  the  prophecy  of  more.  We  had  the  great  pleasure 
of  meeting  with  several  of  these  Christian  men,  one 
of  whom  had  been  Senior  Wrangler  in  the  University 
of  Cambridge.  Another  of  distinguished  abilities  and 
learning  was  the  Rev.  Mr.  Weitbreeht,  who  is  spoken 
of  as  a coming  bishop. 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 


AGBA. 


GRA  is  one  hundred  and  thirty-nine  miles  south- 


east from  Delhi.  It  is  an  upstart  city  in  India, 
nobody  can  tell  who  was  its  founder.  Its  name  is  pro- 
bably the  continued  history  of  what  was  its  chief  pro- 
duct in  its  beginnings,  as  it  means  “ salt  pan.”  Salt  was 
here  produced  by  evaporation,  and  the  soil  is  still  brack- 
ish and  in  many  places  unproductive.  It  is  situated  on' 
the  right  bank  of  the  broad  and  beautiful  Jumna,  which 
is  fringed  with  the  whitest  sands,  outlined  by  green 
foliage,  and  marks  its  course  by  stately  palms.  The 
city  walls  enclosed  an  area  of  eleven  square  miles, 
only  a half  of  which  has  now  any  population;  the 
rest  holds  the  ruins  of  one  age  after  another  in  the 
turbulent  past.  Two-thirds  of  the  population  are 
Hindus,  one-third  Mohammedans  and  mongrels. 

Agra  began  its  history  with  Akbar,  who  left  Fat- 
tehpur-Sikri  and  established  his  metropolis  here  in 
A.  D.  1566.  There  are  letters  from  English  travellers 
stating  that  “ in  the  seventeenth  century  it  was  a great 
city,  built  of  stone,  having  fair  and  large  streets,  a cas- 
tle entrenched  strongly  within  a ditch,  and  was  a place 
resorted  to  by  merchants  from  Persia  and  other  coun- 
tries. It  is  not  more  than  twelve  miles  from  F uttehpur, 
a city  as  great  as  London.”  The  dream  of  years  was 
at  last  realized  when  at  the  first  hour  of  a Sabbath 
morning  the  city  which  had  lived  in  imagination  as  in 
a golden  dream  broke  into  imperfect  view  through 
the  shining  rays  of  a glorious  moonlight.  Laurie’s 
Hotel  gave  shelter  through  the  hours  of  the  day  of 


319 


320 


Christian  rest,  which  so  distinctly  marks  the  differ- 
ence in  civilization  and  character  between  the  two  peo- 
ples here,  the  rulers  and  the  ruled.  There  is  in 
this  land  no  cessation  of  burdens  or  of  the  cries  of 
traffic  and  its  grinding  servitudes.  It  is  the  country 
where  the  domination  of  ignorance  deified  holds  India 
in  chains  of  moral,  mental  and  civil  bondage. 

It  is  like  the  average  of  Indian  cities,  consist- 
ing of  narrow,  crooked  streets  of  bamboo  huts,  a 
few  plastered  houses  of  European  style,  whitewashed 
or  painted  in  dist('-mper  colors.  There  is  considerable 
business  in  model-making  of  the  Taj  in  marble  and 
alabaster.  Photographs  are  transferred  on  ivory  with 
skill  and  beauty.  Beautiful  rugs  and  soap-stone  carv- 
ings are  also  produced.  The  people  are  not  equal 
in  intelligence  and  force  to  those  further  north — 
every  hundred  miles  southward  in  India  produces 
marked  effects  on  the  people.  Agra  has  no  place 
or  character  in  the  present;  it  lives  only  by  the 
past;  there  is  no  ambition  for  any  thing  better. 
It  lives  as  many  broken-down  families  do,  to  tell 
what  it  has  been  and  to  point  to  some  fragments 
of  the  family  furniture  which  once  existed  per- 
fect, but  is  in  fragments,  to  keep  up  present  self- 
respect.  Palaces  and  tombs  are  all  the  industries 
that  are  worth  speaking  about.  The  duty  of  the  pil- 
grim in  Agra  is  to  see  and  sing,  “ Hark  from  the 
tombs.” 

The  way  to  the  fort  and  palaces  is  through  an  un- 
interesting, filthy  part  of  the  city,  and  these  wonders  of 
the  world  are  indebted  not  a little  to  the  fact  that  there 
is  nothing  in  their  surroundings  to  compare  with 
them.  They  stand  solitary  and  without  rival.  If 
*they  were  in  a city  of  modern  aspirations  other  build- 


321 


ings  would  rival  or  lead  up  to  them,  but  these  works 
of  the  Moghuls  are  like  the  Himalayas,  which  are  not 
buttressed  by  plateaus  or  ranges  and  ])laiiis  like 
stairs  and  platforms,  but  start  up,  abrupt  and  rugged, 
from  the  great  plain  that  stretches  for  hundreds  of 
miles  at  their  base. 

The  fort  is  protected  by  a moat,  over  which  pas- 
sage is  made  on  a draw-bridge.  The  avails  of  the  fort 
are  about  seventy-five  feet  high,  of  red  sand  stone,  very 
like  those  of  Delhi,  but  not  comparing  with  them  as.  a 
work  of  defence.  They  are  built  after  the  modern 
style  in  American  cities  knowm  as  ‘‘skin  fronts.” 
Passing  the  moat  entrance  was  through  a lofty  gate- 
way, flanked  by  two  enormous  towers,  pierced  with 
embrasures  and  crowned  by  light,  airy  pavilions  of 
stone.  The  towers  are  inlaid  with  ornamental  de- 
signs in  white  marble.  The  passage  between  them 
seems  to  rise  on  pillars  so  smoothly  finished  as  to 
have  the  e^ect  of  prisms,  by  which  the  light  itself 
is  changed  into  all  the  variations  of  color. 

At  the  right  is  the  Place  of  the  Carrousel,  where, 
in  past  centuries,  the  Imperial  guard  paraded  in  full 
panoply.  Here  elephants  and  fighting  animals  were 
exhibited  to  the  Emperor  and  his  nobles  as  they  sat  in 
the  open  hall,  protected  from  vulgar  contact  by  a stone 
railing,  the  Moghul  sitting  on  his  throne  raised  on  an 
estrade.  The  Place  of  the  Carrousel  is  now  in  sad  plight. 
There  are  no  more  fights  of  wild  beasts  to  delight 
the  brutal  tastes  of  the  imperial  times.  But  there  are 
instead  dogs  of  war  which  have  done  their  barking 
with  deadly  efiect.  The  English  command  more  re- 
gard in  India  where  their  own  safety  is  more  a 
care  than  native  diversion,  and  to  this  end  they 
have  made  it  a kind  of  artillery  park  for  worn- 


322 


out  guns  and  carriages.  Many  wheels  are  spoke- 
less and  guns  dismounted  and  neglected  ; it  is  rather 
a field  of  army  rubbish,  of  broken  and  cast  away  outfits 
in  the  work  of  human  destruction.  Turning  to  the 
left  is  a pavilion  of  red  sand-stone  of  graceful  arches 
and  brackets,  peerless  in  form  and  entirely  unlike  any 
thing  in  Western  architecture.  This  is  the  Dewan- 
i-Am,  or  hall  of  public  audience.  It  is  five  hundred 
feet  in  length.  Here  Akbar  and  his  successors  heard 
the  complaints  and  defences  of  the  people  and  de- 
cided them  according  to  their  idea  of  justice.  The 
throne  in  this  hall  is  in  a recess  in  the  side  wall  so  as 
to  front  the  people,  and  was  entered  from  a small 
room  in  the  rear.  The  throne  had  a canopy  of  white 
marble  supported  by  pillars,  enclosed  by  a low  balus- 
trade of  the  same  material.  At  present  there  are 
two  chairs  and  a sofa  of  filigree  marble  work  remain- 
ing. The  throne  was  formerly  inlaid  with  precious 
stones,  many  of  which  have  been  taken  out,  but  the 
design  is  apparent  in  what  remains.  The  British 
use  it,  as  they  use  the  Place  of  the  Carrousel,  as  a 
storage  for  the  instruments  of  death.  The  ceil- 
ings have  been  decorated  with  long  rows  of  blue  flags 
on  which  are  the  names  of  the  battles  won  in  India  by 
English  valor.  Near  this  hall  are  shown  the  gates  of 
the  famous  Hindu  Temple  .of  Somnath,  said  to  be 
made  of  sandal  wood. 

Mahmud,  of  Ghuzni,  made  a raid  into  India  for  the 
purposes  of  destroying  idolatry  and  pious  stealing  in 
that  rich  country.  He  was  led  to  the  pillage  by  the 
traditions  of  the  wealth  of  Somnath  and  the  Hindu 
boasts  of  the  power  of  their  idol.  He  captured  and 
rifled  the  temple  after  a desperate  resistance.  Of  his 
plunder  carried  to  Cabul  were  these  gates,  which  were 


323 


wonders  of  elaborate  carving.  After  bis  death  they 
were  put  on  his  tomb  and  treasured  as  trophies  of 
Mohammedan  conquest.  The  booty  of  this  raid  was 
wonderful  in  the  eyes  of  even  the  conquerors.  The 
people  made  but  little  resistance.  They  were  mostly 
engaged  in  praying  to  their  idol.  When  the  Moslems 
had  made  an  entrance  they  were  dazed  by  an  array 
of  golden  idols  around  the  wall  and  a colossal  form 
of  gold  in  the  centre.  The  priests  begged  and  offered 
a vast  ransom,  but  the  religious  conquering  thief  was 
so  overcome  by  a sense  of  outrage  at  the  idolatry  of 
the  Hindu  that  he  smashed  the  great  ugly  idol  with  his 
mace,  beating  it  in  at  the  waist,  and  out  of  its  corpor- 
osity  poured  such  a quantity  of  every  kind  of  pearls, 
diamonds  and  hoarded  treasures  that  the  love  of  plun- 
der became  resistless  and  every  thing  but  the  walls  was 
carried  away,  even  to  the  doors. 

These  famous  gates  were  burned,  and  when ' the 
Mahmud’s  Tomb  was  repaired  a new  set  were  made, 
not  of  sandal  wood  but  of  pine,  a poor  imitation. 
The  English  brought  these  from  Mahmud’s  Tomb 
and  used  ,them  to  make  a great  moral  impres- 
sion on  the  Hindus  that  they  were  the  greater  and 
all-conquering  race.  As  the  Mohammedans  had 
conquered  the  Hindus,  so  they  had  conquered  the 
Mohammedans,  and  had  brought  the  Gates  of  Somnath 
•back  again.  The  English  and  the  whole  world,  for 
that  matter,  have  been  deceived  about  them,  for  the 
evidences  are  conclusive  that  they  are  not  the  original 
Gates  of  Somnath. 

At  the  Jumna  end  of  this  great  hall  are  grated 
passages  of  stone  filigree  work,  cut  into  bee  comb-like 
openings  not  more  than  half  an  inch  thick,  forming 
screens  which  enabled  the  women  of  the  court  to 


324 


look  through  on  the  councils,  receptions  and  trials  pro* 
ceeding  in  the  hall  without  being  seen.  Passing  on 
through  the  lower  rooms  are  the  Emperor’s  bath  and 
other  apartments,  together  with  those  of  his  attendants. 
These  are  all  of  the  purest  white  marble,  polished  to 
the  highest  degree,  but  a little  yellowish  through  age. 
F urgusson  in  his  Modern  Architecture,”  says : 
‘‘  This  palace  is  even  more  interesting  than  that  at 
Delhi,  being  wholly  of,  the  best  age.”  In  the  centre 
of  it  is  the  great  court,  five  hundred  by  three  hundred 
and  seventy  feet,'  surrounded  by  arcades  and  ap- 
proached at  the  opposite  ends  through  a succession  of 
beautiful  courts,  opening  into  one  another.  On  one 
side  is  the  Dewan-i-Khas,  tAvo  hundred  and  eight  by 
seventy-six  feet,  supported  by  three  ranges  of  arcades. 
Behind  are  three  smaller  courts,  the  one  containing 
the  Dewan-i-Am-Khas,  or  private  hall  of  audience,  the 
other  the  harem.  The  greatest  care  was  lavished  on 
this  court,  which  measures  one  hundred  and  seventy 
by  tAvo  hundred  and  thirty -five  feet.  Three  sides  are 
occupied  by  the  residences  of  the  ladies,  not  remark- 
able for  their  size,  nor,  in  their  present  state,  for 
architectural  beauty,  but  the  fourth,  overhanging  the 
river,  is  occupied  by  three  white  pavilions  of  singular 
elegance.  The  walls  and  roof  still  show  the  elegance 
with  which  they  were  adorned. 

That  our  readers  may  have  the  best  authorities  in 
this  description  we  quote  from  Tavernier,  who  visited 
the  palace  in  1666: — “Shah  Jehan  had  undertaken 
to  coA^'er  Avith  silver  all  the  vaults  of  a great  gal- 
lery, which  is  to  the  right,  and  a Frenchman  named 
Augustin  de  Bordeaux  was  to  do  the  work.  But  the 
great  Moghul  seeing  that  in  his  state  he  had  none 
who  was  more  capable  to  send  to  Goa  for  some  nego- 


325 


tiations  with  the  Portuguese,  the  work  was  not  done, 
for  those  who  dreaded  the  intellect  of  Augustin 
poisoned  him  on  his  return  from  Cochin.  The  gallery 
is  covered  with  foliage  of  gold  and  azure,  and  the 
floors  with  carpets  of  the  costliest  textures.  There 
are  doors  below  which  lead  into  small  squares.  The 
three  other  sides  of  the  court  are  all  open,  with  noth- 
ing intervening  but  a slight  balustrade.” 

The  entire  Palace  of  Akbar  rests  upon  a sub-struc- 
ture of  red  sand  stone,  but  the  interior  and  upper 
story  are  of  the  purest  marble.  The  apartments  of 
the  Emperor,  his  private  bath  and  attendants’ rooms  are 
first  seen,  in  which  are  corridors  and  chambers  of  white 
marble  elaborately  wrought.  But  the  apartments  of 
the  chief  Sultana  are  the  crowning  glory  of  the  superb 
palace.  This  is  a suite  of  rooms  overlooking  the  river, 
the  scene  of  the  Emperor’s  yacht  races,  and  the  court- 
yard where  were  held  the  tiger  and  elephant  contests. 
They  are  entirely  of  marble,  elaborately  carved  and 
inlaid  with  jasper,  agate,  cornelian,  blood-stone  and 
lapis  lazuli  in  exqusite  mosaics,  and  finished  with  the 
jeweler’s  art.  The  fretwork  of  the  marble  screens 
which  form  the  windows,  the  balustrades  and  cornices 
resembles  delicate  lace  work.  From  the  pavilions 
which  overlook  the  river,  and  which  seem  as  if  sus- 
pended in  ail’,  can  be  seen  the  fair  white  Taj,  rising 
like  a pearl  from  gardens  of  intensest  green.  Niches 
and  carved  columns  show  a wealth  of  mosaics,  and  the 
groined  ceilings  still  bear  traces  of  rich  decorations  in 
gold  and  colors.  One  of  the  bed- rooms  had  doors 
once  overlaid  with  silver,  and  niches  in  the  sides  of 
the  wall  for  holding  the  ladies’  jewels.  Shah  Jehan 
had  meant  to  have  the  verandah  of  the  gallery 
covered  with  a trellis  of  rubies  and  emeralds  to  imi- 
tate green  grapes  and  those  beginning  to  turn  red. 


While  we  have  been  describing  what  is  called 
Akbar’s  palace  the  names  of  Jehangir  and  Shah 
Jehan  appear,  and  it  needs  to  be  explained  that  it  was 
Akbar’s  only  in  the  sense  of  being  the  original  founder 
of  the  palace  situated  here,  for  little  of  his  work  remains. 
The  Angun  Bagh  is  the  only  place  where  his  work  is 
traceable.  And  even  the  three  sides  thought  to  have 
been  built  by  Akbar  were  greatly  changed  and  elabor- 
ated by  Shah  Jehan  to  bring  them  into  harmony 
with  his  new  works  on  the  river  front.  The  present 
palace  i?,  with  this  exception,  the  work  of  his  son, 
Jehangir,  and  the  crowning  glory  of  all  is  from  the 
genius  of  Shah  Jehan. 

There  is  a building  on  the  south  side  of  the  palace, 
a large  red  sand-stone  building  with  a two-storied 
facade  and  relieving  lines  of  white  marble,  which 
bears  the  name  of  the  son  and  immediate  succession 
of  Akbar,  Jehangir,  indicating  that  he  had  a hand 
in  the  rearing  of  this  wonderful  structure.  The 
two  inner  courts  of  this  building,  the  largest  of  which 
is  seventy  feet  square,  are  of  massive  style,  cut  from 
red  sand-stone,  with  wonderful  Hindu  brackets,  the 
most  graceful  in  form  we  have  ever  seen.  These 
brackets  once  supported  sunshades  in  front  of  the 
upper  stories,  under  which  runs  a moulding  of  lotus 
flowers ; each  flower  is  supported  on  either  side  by 
a pair  of  birds  of  difierent  kinds.  The  building  is  re- 
markable in  India  as  avoiding  almost  entirely  all 
effects  by  arches. 


CHAPTER  XXXII. 


AKBAR'S  PALACE  AT  AGRA. 

IN  the  courtyard  is  the  basin  where  once  played 
jets  of  rose-water  in  the  days  of  the  lazy  sul- 
tanas. In  the  interior  court  is  also  a large  fish  tank, 
once  twenty-two  feet  deep,  surrounded  by  a marble 
verandah  with  cornice  and  mouldings  carved  indelicate 
designs.  Here  the  Emperor  and  his  ladies  used  to 
catch  fish,  sitting  under  a canopy  of  marble — a mono- 
lith twelve  feet  square  elaborately  carved.  The  Shish 
Mahal,  or  Sultana’s  bath,  is  a room,  the  walls,  ceilings 
and  passages  of  which  are  set  with  thousands  of  pieces 
of  mirror-glass,  in  geometrical  designs,  which  flash  forth 
their  splendors  in  reflection  of  the  lighted  torch  of  the 
guide.  The  water  was  heated  for  the  bath  by  small 
cascades  pouring  over  a heated  surface.  Fronting  an 
open  marble  terrace  is  the  Emperor’s  private  audience 
hall,  smaller  than  that  at  Delhi,  and  upon  the  open 
terrace  are  two  thrones,  one  of  white  marble,  for  the 
Emperor,  and  the  other  of  black  slate,  in  which  a long 
split  is  said  to  have  occurred  spontaneously  at  the 
occupation  of  a Jat  usurper,  and  there  is  a tradition, 
at  which  every  Hindu  and  Mohammedan  shudders,  that 
when  a Rajah  of  Bhurtpore  shall  again  come  to  that 
throne  the  streets  of  the  city  shall  run  with  blood. 

The  Black  throne  dates  about  1603  A.  D.,  and  its 
principal  inscription  is  in  recognition  of  the  heir  ap- 
parent, Prince  Sulim,  afterwards  the  Emperor  Jahan- 
gir. Near  this  open  terrace  is  the  Pachisi  board,  a 
space,  perhaps,  twelve  feet  square,  set  in  squares  of 
white  and  colored  marble,  upon  which  the  Emperor 

327 


328 


and  his  ladies  played  a game  of  Eastern  back  gammon 
with  beautiful  slave  girls  doing  duty  as  checker  pieces. 
Near  by  is  the  Jasimine  tower  of  the  chief  Sultana,  of 
carved  marble  and  mosaics.  The  marble  cornice  of 
the  audience  room  facing  the  open  terrace  is  shattered 
and  disfigured  by  English  cannon  balls,  but  while  this 
mark  of  the  conqueror  is  upon  it,  to  the  conquerors 
Agra  owes  the  sacred  preservation  of  her  incomparable 
art,  and  a tablet  to  the  memory  of  Sir  John  Strachey,. 
who  was  chiefly  instrumental  in  this  work,  was  placed 
in  the  wall  of  the  palace  by  the  Earl  of  Lytton  in 
1880.  A small  interior  court  bears  the  name  of  the 
Zenana  market,  and  hither  came  the  ladies  of  the 
palace  to  buy  trinkets  and  rich  fabrics  brought  by 
dealers.  There  is  said  to  be  an  underground  passage 
near  this  place  leading  to  the  Taj. 

The  mother-in-law  in  those  far-away  times  was  an 
object  of  no  more  admiration  than  in  the  present,  and 
this  bit  of  information  is  given  for  the  enlightenment 
of  both  the  mother-in  law  and  daughter-in-law'of  the 
present.  The  old-time  mothers-in-law  in  India  not 
only  obeyed  the  instinct  of  their  meddlesome  natures 
to  be  into  every  household  affair,  but  they  had  the, 
right  to  be  as  tormenting  as  they  chose.  India,  past 
and  present,  has  been  the  Paradise  of  mothers-in-law. 
Society  is  constructed  on  this  basis,  which  is  carried  out 
with  the  utmost  fidelity  on  the  maternal  side  of 
humanity.  The  old  woman  harrasses  her  daughter- 
in-law  until  she  has  a son,  and  then  she  in  turn  sets 
up  an  inquisition  over  her  husband  and  all  beneath, 
so  in  homely  phrase  the  “ old  hen  crows,’’  the  most 
unnatural  thing  in  all  nature,  “ and  the  young  ones 
learn.”  Sometimes  the  daughter-in-law  even  in  India 
gets  ahead. 


329 


In  an  interior  court  of  the  Sultana’s  palace  is  a 
well  into  which  the  beautiful  Nur  Mahal  is  said 
to  have  pushed  her  meddling  mother-in-law,  and 
forgot  to  raise  the  alarm  for  about  two  hours  after- 
wards, when  it  was,  no  doubt,  found  that  she  was 
pickled  in  “ nirvana.”  There  is  no  record  that  her 
beautiful  daughter-in-law  pulled  her  hair  in  her  grief  . 
or  that  she  went  into  mourning.  A ladies’  mosque,, 
small  but  exquisite,  with  a fountain  at  which  these 
Oriental  favorites  of  the  Emperor  cleansed  their 
dainty  feet,  completes  the  number  of  ladies’  apart- 
ments. 

All  these  wonders  lead  up  to  the  last,  the  very  coro- 
nation of  human  genius  in  eccleriastical  architecture,  the 
Pearl  Mosque.  It  is  a marvel  of  Saracenic  taste,  and  of 
its  embodiment  in  peerless  art.  The  Western  Moham- 
medans in  Palestine  and  Turkey  had  no  gift  for 
any  thing  but  destruction.  But  for  India,  Moham- 
medan art  would  never  have  reached  even  observation, 
with  the  solitary  exception  of  the  Alhambra.  The 
Mohammedan  mind  has  produced  little  to  chal- 
lenge admiration  out  of  India,  and  even  here  was  in- 
debted for  its  best  effects  to  European  genius.  The 
Pearl  IMosque  was  the  outcome  of  the  mind  of  the 
wonderful  builder,  Shah  Jehan,  in  1654,  and  cost 
about  three  hundred  thousand  dollars.  The  court  of 
the  mosque  is  a quadrangle  of  about  one  hundred  and 
seventy- five  feet  square.  It  is  surrounded  by  a 
Saracenic  arcade  and  sculptured  pillars,  and  is 
reached  by  a flight  of  marble  steps.  The  entab- 
lature and  cornice  are  of  snowy-white  marble  in 
graceful  designs  cut  with  skill  almost  superhuman. 
India,  the  land  of  superabundant  life,  carries  its  ab- 
stract ideas  of  life  into  its  creations  of  palacer. 


330 


mosques  and  tombs,  so  wherever  the  form  of  tree, 
plant,  flower,  or  animal  life  can  be  placed  to  make 
dead  things  lifelike  it  will  be  found,  so  that  even  her 
architecture  is  a memoribilia.  The  roof  is  sur- 
mounted by  three  bulbous  domes,  with  inverted  lotus 
flowers  and  gilded  finials.  There  are  fifteen  minarets, 
three  upon  each  gate,  and  kiosks  resembling  ex- 
quisite marble  bird  cages,  pleasing  in  proportion  and 
general  efiect.  It  stands  on  a spur  of  a hill,  and  on 
the  east  side  a long  flight  of  red  sand-stone  leads  up 
to  a gate,  which  might  bear  the  name  of  “Sublime 
Porte.”  It  is  the  only  building  on  the  earth  that  com- 
pels devotion,  whether  Christian  or  infidel.  One 
treads  a pavement  of  purest  marble  with  delicate 
variations  of  color.  In  the  courtyard  is  the  fountain 
for  prescribed  ablutions.  The  space  allotted  to  each 
worshipper  is  laid  out  upon  the  floor  in  parallelo- 
grams of  marble. 

Little  did  the  royal  builder  think  of  the  use  this 
sacred  place  would  be  to  him  in  the  adversities  that 
surely  overtake  brilliant  rulers.  In  it  he  was  a pris- 
oner. Here  in  companionship  with  his  only  friend, 
his  devoted  daughter,  the  lovely  Christian,  Jehanira, 
whose  tomb  has  been  described  at  Delhi,  the  royal 
prisoner  came  daily  to  pray  and  to  be  solaced  in  his 
final  tribulation,  when  his  ingrate  son  shut  him 
up  in  the  palace  of  his  former  glory,  in  which  he 
spent  seven  years  of  clouded  sunsetting.  The  heathen 
mind  is  always  affected  by  objective  creations  in  aid 
of  its  worship,  but  here  only  of  all  the  pl.ices  men 
build  in  which  they  think  his  “honor  dwelleth,”  was 
God  not  belittled  to  us.  When  the  evening  approaches 
and  the  sun’s  glare  is  subdued,  it  appears  in  golden 
glints  as  athwart  an  ice  palace  weeping  itself  away  in 


331 


rays  of  heavenly  glory.  It  is  so  pure  in  man’s  eye, 
so  thoroughly  without  spot  or  tarnish,  so  polished  is 
its  marble  that  the  sensuous  soul  exclaims,  “This  is 
the  temple  of  God;  this  surely  is  the  gate  of  heaven!” 

The  reflection  would  come  unbidden  and  the  con- 
trast was  humbling.  How  is  it  that  the  spirituality  of 
God  has  never  shown  itself  in  Christian  architecture  ? 
How  is  it  that  its  purposes  too  often  appear  to  be 
to  deify  man  and  to  belittle  God  ? How  is  it  that 
Mohammedanism,  alone  in  its  places  and  conceptions 
of  worship,  stands  nearer  than  all  other  to  God’s  nature 
and  attributes.  God  is  a Spirit  and  must  be  worshipped 
in  spirit  and  in  truth.  The  answer  is  no  doubt  in 
the  fact  that  as  the  very  devils  must  praise  him, 
every  form  of  religion,  no  matter  how  perverted  and 
debased,  must  bring  some  trophy  to  his  throne,  and  so 
the  sublime  tribute  of  this  bloody  scourge  upon 'idola- 
try was  the  genius  to  produce  a place  of  worship 
without  image  on  stone,  or  picture  or  color,  or  sound 
that  could  divert  the  mind  of  the  worshipper  from 
the  spiritual  presence  and  power  of  the  invisible  God. 
Ours  is  the  singular  age  in  which  the  objective  rules, 
and  architecture  has  been  so  unconsciously  infused 
with  the  true  spiritual  condition  of  the  mind  of  the 
present  that  it  can  think  of  nothing  which  it  cannot 
see  and  cannot  worship  without  the  staff  of  sensation. 

There  are  many  more  interesting  facts  about  this 
fort,  palace  and  temple,  but  detail  is  tedious  and 
the  mind  that  has  not  seen  wearies.  There  are  a few 
facts  which  will  interest,  which  are  given  in  detach- 
ments. On  the  roofs  of  some  of  these  buildings  are 
cisterns,  into  which  the  waters  of  the  Jumna  were  raised 
by  a system  of  lifts  or  compound  leverage.  On  the 
sides  of  these  cisterns  are  the  mouths  of  copper  pipes 


332 


by  which  the  water  was  distributed  throughout  the 
palace,  of  which  the  respective  names  are  engraved  on 
medallions  surmounting  each  pipe.  There  is  a laby- 
rinth of  underground  buildings  intended  for  the 
summer  heats.  Here  the  Emperors  and  companions 
could  change  temperature  without  exposure  to  the 
simoons  and  monsoons.  They  would  descend  early 
in  the  morning,  and  wander  about  in  the  labyrinths, 
which  honeycombed  the  fort,  whose  low  windows  looked 
out  on  the  river.  One  fact  is  certain,  that  glory^and 
adversity  are  twins.  This  splendid  creation  has  seen 
more  sorrow  to  the  acre  than  any  other  known  spot  of 
recorded  history.  Jahangir,  son  and  successor  to 
the  founder,  Akbar,  lived  but  a few  troubled  years,  he 
chose  the  northern  latitudes  of  Kabul  in  1639.  Shah 
Jahan,  the  builder  of  the  principal  part  of  the  palace, 
was  here  imprisoned  seven  years,  deposed  by  his  son, 
and  died  in  1666  in  one  of  the  marble  pavilions  over- 
looking the  river. 

In  Aurungzeb’s  time  the  fort  became  merely  a cita- 
del of  a provincial  town  and  the  residence  of  a Moghul 
governor  until  occupied  by  the  Bhurtpore  Jats 
about  a century  later.  In  1788  it  was  recovered  by 
imperialists  under  Mahajee  Sindhia  and  held  by  the 
Mahratta  troops  in  the  name  of  the  Emperor  until  the 
end  of  1803.  After  the  Franco-Mahratta  army  had 
been  defeated  at  Delhi  General  Lake,  of  the  British 
army,  invested  the  fort — the  Mahrattas  availed  them- 
selves of  the  services  of  General  Sutherland  and  capit- 
ulated. The  indentations  and  breakage  of  Lake’s 
cannon  balls  are  seen  on  s^me  of  the  finest  work  in  the 
palace,  although  there  are  those  who  believe  these  are 
marks  of  earlier  bombardments. 

There  were  scenes  in  1866  that  revived  in  the  memo- 
ries of  the  old  men  of  India  the  famous  days  of  the 


333 


Moghuls.  It  was  the  great  Durbar,  or  audience  of 
the  Queen, who  was  represented  by  Sir  John  Lawrence, 
her  Viceroy.  He  was  seated  on  the  throne  of  Akbar, 
as  if  Queen  Victoria  were  there,  to  receive  all  the 
native  princes  according  to  their  rank.  At  this  time 
there  were  flickerings  of  the  old  life,  outshinings  of 
the  gorgeousness  of  the  past.  This  reception  was  the 
last  suggestion  of  the  glories  departed.  It  was  also 
one  of  the  most  important  movements  of  the  new  Brit- 
ish India,  and  took  place  on  the  20th  of  November, 
the  most  delightful  period  of  the  whole  year.  The 
Viceroy  in  his  own  greatness  and  goodness  of  charac- 
ter, as  a man  respected  by  all.  order-loving  and  honest 
thinking  men,  mighty  as  a ruler,  truthful  and  just, 
terrible  in  battle,  no  man  in  Britain  or  India  could  so 
truly  and  acceptably  have  represented  the  Queen  as 
Sir  John  Lawrence.  Invested  with  all  the  power 
and  honor  of  the  greatest  sovereign  on  earth  he . ap- 
peared for  the  event,  accompanied  by  a staff  of  heroes 
known  for  their  valor  in  battle  and  for  their  honor  as 
men.  They  came  in  the  midst  of  a pestilence  which 
was  slaying  its  thousands.  Cholera  had  possession  of 
the  city  and  was  reaching  after  supreme  control. 

The  native  princes  gave  themselves  up  to  entertain- 
ing and  being  entertained.  The  Maharajah  of  Sind- 
hia,  one  of  the  most  potent  princes  in  Hindustan, 
gave  a magnificent  fete  in  the  Taj,  costing  twenty 
thousand  rupees.  The  Viceroy  presided  over  a grand 
assembly  of  the  Order  of  the  Star  of  India,  at  which 
several  of  the  princes  were  invested  with  the  insignia 
of  the  order,  the  candidate  standing  before  the  dais 
of  the  Viceroy,  where  the  Queen’s  letter  was  read 
aloud,  then  the  Viceroy  embraced  him,  and  then 
fastening  the  ribbon  and  collar  around  his  neck 


I 


334 


declared  him  to  be  a knight.  The  ceremonies 
attracted  thousands,  and  great  masses  of  all  kinds 
of  people  jostled  against  each  other.  Thousands  of 
Europeans  were  quartered  in  tents  outside  the  city 
limits.  One  who  was  present  gives  the  following : 

“ At  noon  the  esplanade  in  front  of  the  camp  pre- 
sented a magnificent  sight.  Each  Rajah,  surrounded 
by  his  court  and  displaying  all  his  riches,  took  up 
the  position  assigned  to  him  from  which  he  was  tO' 
proceed  to  the  Durbar.  Seated  next  to  Scindia, 
are  the  representatives  of  the  Solar  race,  of  the  god 
Rama ; and  they  rank  next  to  the  Rana  of  Oudey- 
poor.  Then  came  the  Begum  of  Bhopal,  the  most  im- 
portant Mohammedan  sovereign  of  Rajasthan.  She 
is  about  fifty  years  of  age,  of  an  energetic  and  almost 
masculine  type.  She  was  dressed  in  a manly  costume, 
with  tight  pantaloons  of  cloth  of  gold  and  a satin  tunic 
decorated  with  several  orders.  Among  the  nobles  of 
her  suite  was  the  dowager  queen  Goadsia  Begum. 
Then  came  the  Maha  Rao  Rajah  of  Kotah,  and  the 
Rajah  of  Kishengurh,  both  of  them  Rajpoots,  wearing 
the  ancient  kangra  or  short  plaited  muslin  petticoat. 
The  Maharajah  of  Kerowly,  the  young  Jat  Rajah  of 
Bhurtpore,  and  the  Maha  Rao  of  Ulwur  formed  a 
group  resplendent  with  jewels;  Sheodan,  wearing  a 
long  tunic  of  black  velvet,  blazing  with  strings  of 
diamonds.” 

Hosts  of  others  are  enumerated,  but  we  will  omit  them 
after  mentioning  one  party  more,  viz : Six  Mirzas, 

members  of  the  ex-imperial  family  of  Delhi,  descend- 
ants of  Akbar,  richly  dressed  and  wearing  the  dress 
of  the  princes  of  the  blood,  saluted  the  English  Vice- 
roy, from  whom  they  receive  pensions. 


335 


“ After  the  ceremony  of  the  nuzzur  came  that  of  the 
khillut,,the  presentation  of  gifts  to  the  rajahs.  These 
consisted  of  elephants,  horses,  jewels,  precious  stuff, 
&c.,  which  were  displayed  in  the  pavilion  and  pre- 
sented to  each  rajah  as  he  came  up.  After  this  dis- 
tribution, an  address  was  made  by  the  Viceroy,  and 
the  Durbar  closed.  Festivals  were,  however,  continued 
till  the  end  of  the  month.  At  a grand  ball,  given  by 
the  Ram  Sing,  a Hindoo  prince,  the  descendant  of 
Rama,  was  seen  to  figure  in  a quadrille  with  an  English 
lady  upon  his  arm.” 


HE  most  incomparable  architectural  gem  in  the 


world  is  the  tomb  that  stands  on  the  Jumna, 
in  a spot  created  as  much  for  the  Taj  as  the  Taj  itself 
for  the  glory  of  India.  All  creation  rests  on  reason, 
and  so  does  the  beautiful  structure  now  to  occupy  our 
thoughts.  Reference  has  been  made  to  the  adventurer 
from  Persia,  or,  as  some  authorities  say,  from  Tartary, 
Mirza  Ghaias,  known  also  as  Kwaja  Aeeas,  honored 
by  Shah  Jehan  as  Itmud-ud-Daulah,  Grand  Vizier,  who 
turned  his  face  to  the  land  of  glory  and  beauty  to  im- 
prove his  threadbare  fortunes';  a seedy  individual  in 
English  parlance,  his  effects  went  into  a bullock-cart, 
wife  included,  and  there  was  little  else  in  the  cart  but 
emptiness.  On  his  adventurous  way  his  wife  varied 
the  tedium  of  the  journey  by  giving  birth  to  a girl 
baby,  who  made  the  liveliest  music  day  and  night.  She 
had  cause  to  do  so,  for  the  lactilic  fluid  was  not  abundant 
in  that  cart,  and  she  began  early  to  make  herself  felt 


CHAPTER  XXXIII. 


THE  TAJ. 


336 


in  the  world,  and  kept  it  up  until  the  world  took  her 
to  its  bosom  to  get  rid  of  her.  This  cart-born  daughter 
became  the  famous  Nur  Mahal,  a prodigy  of  beauty, 
and  what  is  more  wonderful,  of  good  sense.  While 
coming  and  going  to  the  royal  harem  she  was  seen  by 
Prince  MirzaSuleem,  afterward  the  Emperor  Jehangir, 
whose  love  instantly  became  as  hot  as  a sirocco.  He 
fumed  with  devotion  and  kept  the  fires  up  throughout 
life,  an  extraordinary  thing  in  a Moghul  prince.  She 
was  married  to  her  lover,  whom  Jehangir  killed  to  get 
her,  and  firom  this  time  she  was  a star  climbing  to  the 
zenith  in  a halo  of  glory.  Her  father  was  raised 
from  a bullock-cart  to  be  Lord  High  Treasurer,  and 
afterwards  became  a Prime  Minister  of  the  Empire. 

The  mode  of  rising  was  after  the  fashion  of  the  worm, 
which  once  had  the  temerity  to  enter  an  eagle’s  nest, 
and  when  asked  by  the  surprised  lord  of  the  sky  and 
the  air  how  it  came  into  such  kingly  apartments  re- 
plied, I crawled  up.”  Nur  Mahal  and  her  adven- 
turous old  father  crawled  up  fast  and  brought  others 
with  them.  She  had  a daughter  born  in  her  first  mar- 
riage, whose  father  Jehangir  had  killed  as  an  incident 
in  his  love-making.  She  had  no  children  by  her 
imperial  marriage.  This  step-daughter  had  the  adven- 
turous instinct  of  the  family,  and  managed  to  marry 
the  younger  son  of  her  step-father,  the  Emperor. 
Here  is  a mother-in-law  worth  considering.  In  order 
to  secure  the  crown  to  her  son-in-law,  she  induced 
the  Emperor  to  put  out  the  eyes  of  his  oldest  son, 
Kushru,  and  she  herself  disposed  of  her  mother-in-law 
by  shoving  her  into  a well.  But  she  did  not  succeed  in 
putting  her  son-in-law  upon  the  throne ; for  Shah  Jehan 
succeeded  his  father.  This  great  Emperor  could  not  be 
managed  by  her  as  his  father  had  been ; she  lacked  the 


337 


necessary  brains,  and  her  personal  charms  had  departed. 
He  cast  her  in  prison  and  put  out  the  eyes  of  her  son- 
in-law,  Shah  Reear ; nor  did  he  stop  in  his  sanguinary 
recreation,  for  he  strangled  all  her  able-bodied  .rela- 
tions. She  had  governed  the  Empire  fur  ten  years 
and  had  led  the  troops  in  battle.  The  Emperor  Shah 
Jehan  married  her  niece,  who  had  the  same  family 
quality  of  pushing  her  way  in  the  world  and  push- 
ing the  world  for  a way. 

The  incoming  woman  of  her  age  was  Moomtaz-el 
Mahal.  These  Mahals  were  pivotal  characters,  and 
her  satellites  were  ever  obeying  orders.  She  seems 
to  have  had  goodness  in  her  nature  as  well  as'  great 
administrative  power  of  mind.  She  inspired  her  hus- 
band to  good  and  made  him  the  greatest  and  best 
Emperor  of  the  Moghuls.  Her  life  was  long  and 
useful,  and  at  its  close  the  peerless  Taj  was  built 
to  commemorate  her  worth  and  its  appreciation  by 
her  afflicted  husband.  The  ejection  was  begun  in  a 
year  after  his  ascension  to  the  throne  of  his  ancestors, 
for  which  he  had  connived,  fought  and  conquered. 
It  is  about  a mile  from  the  palace,  a superb  road 
made  by  the  English  leads  to  it  between  the  river 
skirting  the  hills.  The  highway  to  it  is  over  the 
ruins  of  the  past,  and  it  has  survived  them  all. 

The  road  to  the  mausoleum  is  the  victory  of  pain  and 
pang,  or  starvation  utilized,  for  it  was  one  of  the 
famine  relief  operations  of  1838.  This  royal  high- 
way is  through  the  remains  of  villas  that  were  once 
occupied  with  the  on-hangers  of  royal  favor,  or  those 
who  vainly  waited  for  it  and  died  without  the  sight.  At 
the  end  of  this  superb  roadway  is  the  object  before  which 
death  itself  is  robbed  of  its  terrors  to  the  living,  and 
beauty  has  substituted  delight  for  dread.  It  is  a temple 


338 


and  palace  of  the  dead,  without  a suggestion  of  death  in 
it  or  about  it.  It  is  rather  the  luarble  embodiment  of 
immortality.  The  way  to  this  wonder  of  the  world  is 
as  if  to  a paradise  fringed  with  delights.  The  peaceful 
Jumna,  subdued  by  the  chill  of  winter  into  gentle  flow, 
its  rippled  and  bubbled  surface  sparkling  in  a cloud- 
less sunshine,  contributes  to  the  effect  produced.  Life 
all  along  struggles  against  life,  and  so  keeps  itself  up 
through  all  the  years,  no  winter  signs  of  death  interven- 
ing. No  shadow  not  bearing  the  moving  images  of 
waving  palms  and  the  varieties  of  color  of  countless 
flowers  ever  flits  over  those  fertile  sands.  Earth, 
skies,  w^aters  and  the  highest  efforts  of  all,  are  servants 
to  this  creation  of  man’s  skill  in  smothering  in  human 
and  natural  effects  what  has  chilled  the  heart  of  man 
in  all  his  existence  on  the  earth  and  subdued  it  to  be 
a charnel  house  or  court  of  death. 

The  “exalted  of  the  palace”  in  life  and  death,  the  wife 
of  Shah  Jehan,  was  married  in  1615,  and  became  the 
mother  of  seven  children,  and  died  in  childbed  of  the 
eighth,  in  the  year  1629  at  Burhanpur,  to  which  she 
had  come  to  share  the  cares  and  fatigues  of  her  husband 
in  his  campaign  in  the  Deccan  against  Khan  Jahan 
Lodi.  Her  body  was  carried  to  the  metropolis  mosque 
until  the  Taj  was  completed  to  receive  it.  The  collec- 
tion of  materials  occupied  seventeen  years,  though 
it  may  have  been  in  process  of  erection  during 
part  of  them.  The  gateway  to  the  garden  surround- 
ing the  Taj  would  be  a wonder  of  itself,  to  which 
the  world  would  make  pilgrimage,  were  it  not  that 
it  is  only  the  opening  to  the  Taj.  It  is  built  of 
that  wonderful  red  sandstone,  more  perfect  than  that 
in  which  Hugh  Miller  wrought,  and  from  which  he 
drew  secrets  of  the  mode  and  time,  the  life  and  its 


339 


Imrial,  of  the  beginnings  of  the  earth  and  its  time 
and  times  before  man  was  created  or  had  lordship 
over  it. 

There  is  in  the  gateway  a niche  with  a pointed  arch, 
which  rises  nearly  to  the  roof,  which  is  about  seventy 
feet  from  the  ground  on  the  sides,  and  over  the  top 
of  this  great  gateway  are  inscribed  texts  from  the 
Koran  inlaid  with  black  marble.  There  are  four  tall 
arched  recesses  in  front  in  place  of  windows;  over 
the  top  of  each,  and  over  the  lofty  entrance  is  a space 
of  white  marble  adorned  with  flowers,  vines  with 
leaves  and  scrolls,  inlaid  with  cornelians,  agates,  lapis 
lazuli  and  other  stones  with  leaves  formed  out  of  green 
marble.  At  the  entrance  on  each  side  are  two 
octagonal  towers  of  brown  stone ; between  each  block 
is  a narrow  band  of  white  marble,  one-fourth  as  wide 
as  the  ashler  above  and  below.  These  octagonal 
towers  are  surmounted  with  kiosks  or  belfries  of  arches 
and  small  columns  crowned  with  domes.  At  the 
bases  are  projections  beyond  the  sides  of  the  towers, 
and  under  these  are  stone  brackets,  the  creation  of 
genius  two  centuries  ago,  which  has  but  lately  reached 
imitation  in  our  own  country.  The  ceiling  is  vaulted, 
the  blind  and  real  openings  are  Saracenic. 

Each  of  the  corners  is  adorned  with  a kiosk  or 
columned  belfry  with  dome  top;  over  the  centre 
opening  of  the  gateway  is  an  archivolt  and  architrave, 
over  which  is  a series  of  small  arches  resting  on  pillars 
not  more  than  four  feet  high,  on  which  is  the  roof 
with  its  cresting.  On  the  inside,  over  the  grand  arch- 
way a great  nest  of  bees  are  sticking  to  the  wall,  partly 
protected  under  one  of  its  arches.  The  swarm  and 
their  products  looked  as  large  as  a half  dozen  swarms 
in  our  country.  Before  proceeding  further  it  is  better 


340 


to  have  the  reasons  for  existing  things,  ^^e  are  told 
that  the  Tartars,  from  whom  the  Indian  Moghuls  are 
descended,  first  built  palaces  for  themselves,  and  en- 
joyed them  as  palaces  as  long  as  they  could  while 
living.  They  luxuriated  until  death  laid  his  chilly 
hand  on  them,  sparing  their  palaces  and  gardens  of  de- 
light. We  are  not  a little  surprised  at  the  statement 
that  Joseph  of  Aramathea  had  a garden  in  which  was 
a sepulchre — this  is  Oriental.  Death  and  life  are 
brought  nearer  each  other  in  India  than  in  the  West. 
The  usual  process  in  the  East  was  for  the  king  or  noble 
intending  to  provide  himself  a tomb  to  enclose  a piece 
of  ground  within  a stone  or  mud  wall  or  cactus  hedge, 
and  then  turn  this  into  a garden,  into  an  emporium  of 
life  and  all  that  can  make  it  joyful. 

In  the  centre  he  erects  a building  alike  for  a home, 
a palace  and  a tomb.  This  kind  of  building  has  al- 
ready been  described ; it  is  always  crowned  by  a dome, 
if  it  is  only  a Dutch  bake  oven  looking  thing,  white- 
washed. During  the  life  of  the  incumbent  the  central 
building  is  called  harra  durri,  and  is  used  as  a place 
of  feasting  and  other  hilarities  by  himself  and  friends. 
When  he  dies  all  is  changed  into  a charnel  house, 
and  the  founder’s  bones  are  laid  to  rest  under  the 
central  dome,  and  mirth  ceases,  and  the  grinders,  if 
there  are  any  left,  are  low. 

The  high  character  for  whom  the  Taj  was  built  was 
an  exception.  She  died,  according  to  her  history,  in 
the  army  campaign.  Her  husband  had  not  yet  goften 
a place  in  the  world  sufficient  to  indicate  what  kind 
of  a tomb  he  should  inhabit  after  he  was  dead.  But 
the  garden  was  then  waiting  the  unerring  event.  It 
was  a favorite  retreat  of  the  deceased  in  her  lifetime. 
Her  youthful  ambitions  had  unfolded  in  this  garden 


341 


by  tbe  river,  and  under  the  skies  so  misty  and  so 
ethereal.  Beyond  the  splendid  gateway,  twining 
right  about  on  either  side,  are  the  inside 'walls  of 
the  garden  enclosure,  which  are  arched,  supporting 
a roof,  rows  of  cloisters  or  arcaded  galleries.  What 
use  they  subserved  it  would  be  hard  to  conjecture.  If 
the  Taj  was  a place  of  worship  these  would  be  taken 
for  magnificent  horse-sheds.  They  are  now  the  abode 
of  bats  and  serpents.  In  front  of  the  gateway  is  a 
long  stone  avenue  or  platform  extending  through  this 
magnificent  garden  eighteen  hundred  feet,  from  the 
east  to  west,  and  one  thousand  feet  from  the  gate  to 
the  river.  In  the  middle  of  the  platform  there  is  a 
basin  for  fountains,  which  extends  the  entire  length 
of  it,  at  least  six  or  seven  hundred  feet.  There  is  a 
great  outflow  from  large  jets,  in  a row  down  the  mid- 
dle of  the  basin,  and  smaller  rows  on  each  side,  and 
when  these  were  playing  it  was  a paradise  festooned 
in  rainbows.  When  it  was  completed  there  was  a 
large  stone  basin  for  fish  reaching  half  the  width  of 
the  larger  basin,  and  which  stands  higher  and  pours 
a circular  sheet  of  water  into  the  large  basin.  This 
is  now  filled  with  earth  instead  of  water,  in  which 
grows  an  indescribable  wealth  of  beauty  in  roses  and 
heliotropes. 

Along  the  sides  of  these  great  basins  are  the  lordly 
cypress,  the  most  dignified  and  aristocratic  tree  in  all 
the  Orient.  There  is  a row  of  them  the  whole  length 
of  the  garden  up  to  the  steps  to  the  Taj.  The 
entrance  is  on  each  side  of  the  basins  through 
dense  foliage  and  every  form  and  kind  of  tropical 
luxuriance  in  flowers.  But  the  sad  reflection  comes 
unbidden,  that  the  first  garden  had  a snake  in  it, 
and  this  rival  garden  is  alive  with  cobras  and  other 


342 


reptiles,  the  descendants  of  those  in  the  first  para- 
dise, and  that  there  is  no  deterioration  is  known 
in  the  fatal  character  of  their  fan^s  in  this  beautiful 
tomb  and  temple  of  the  dead.  The  long  basins  make 
an  open  vista  from  the  centre  of  the  gateway  to  the 
central  door  of  the  Taj,  and  fringed  by  the  tall 
cypresses,  reaching  fifty  or  sixty  feet  upward,  they 
form  a perspective  from  which  the  architectural  jewel 
rises  in  its  peerless  proportions  enshrouded  in  India’s 
mystic  light. 

The  garden  shows  the  same  exquisite  taste  and  a 
genius  that  could  suit  the  majestic  surroundings  to 
the  ultimate  glory  of  the  whole.  It  is  laid  out  as 
nature  would  have  done  if  she  had  chosen  her  own 
paths  through  her  secret  and  shaded  places.  It  is 
a place  of  fruits  as  well  as  flowers;  Oranges  hang 
in  golden  clusters;  Lemons  are  in  contrast  to  the 
green  glossy  leaves  of  the  trees  that  bear  them  and 
are  beautified  by  these  contrasts  in  color.  The  Ban- 
yan tree  is  there,  and  the  Banana,  and  the  Cocoanut 
Palm,  with  its  fruits  above  and  below,  in  the  heavens 
and  lying  on  earth,  offering  themselves  to  the  hungry. 
Here  are  birds  of  every  plume  and  color ; the  Bird  of 
Paradise,  the  Parrot  and  Peafowl,  and  songsters  of 
every  note  on  the  scale,  until  heaven  itself  is  weary 
with  both  beauty  and  song. 

Through  the  majestic  gateway,  up  the  vista  fringed 
with  stately  cypresses  and  misty  with  flowing  foun- 
tains, wreathed  in  rainbows,  rises  in  glory  the  empress 
of  Indian  art,  the  crowning  work  of  the  dynasties  of 
Moghuls — the  monument  of  the  wife  of  the  greatest 
of  all.  The  Moghul  dynasties  rose  successively, 
each  greater  than  his  predecessor,  until  Shah  Jehan, 
the  apex,  was  raised.  Then  each  began  descend- 


343 


• ing  until  the  last,  the  horror  of  humanity,  was 
dethroned  in  Delhi  and  exiled  in  decrepitude  and 
infamy.  It  is  not  possible  to  describe  the  Taj.  The 
mind  looks  upon  it  in  a half-dazed  condition ; one  ob- 
ject of  wonder  drives  another  out,  until  at  last  a con- 
fused outline  of  but  a few  wonders  remains.  To  our 
readers  we  offer  not  a description,  but  our  best  en- 
deavors. The  Taj  rather  hovers  over  than  rests  on  a 
platform  of  red  sand-stone  nine  hundred  and  sixty-four 
feet  long  by  three  hundred  and  twenty-nine  feet  wide, 
between  the  garden  on  one  side  and  the  matchless 
river,  flowing  languidly,  on  the  other. 

From  this  great  platform  of  red  sand-stone  rises  a 
superb  terrace  of  white  marble  three  hundred  and 
thirteen  feet  square,  in  the  centre  of  which  stands  the 
central  figure,  around  which  all  else  is  built  and  to  which 
all  is  supplemental.  It  is  an  irregular  octagon,  the  sides 
facing  the  four  cardinal  points.  There  are  three  en- 
trances, each  one  hundred  and  thirty  feet  long.  The 
edge  of  the  roof  is  seventy  feet  above  the  terrace ; at 
each  angle  is  a slender  minaret  of  snowy  white  mar- 
ble, and  from  the  centre  of  the  octagonal  structure  is 
a great  marble  bulbous-shaped  dome,  the  stones  pol- 
ished into  dazzling  whiteness.  It  is  seventy  feet  in 
diameter,  rising  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet,  on 
which  is  the  usual  Saracenic  gilt  crescent,  the  whole 
fabric  two  hundred  and  sixty  feet  from  the  ground. 
At  the  base  of  the  dome  is  a cornice  wrought  out  of 
marble,  exquisite  in  finish  and  symmetrical  in  propor- 
tion and  effect.  Crouching  at  the  base  of  the  dome, 
at  each  angle,  are  marble  kiosks,  or  cupolas,  follow- 
ing the  same  lines  and  forms,  only  minimized  as  if  to 
point  by  comparison  and  magnify  the  great  central 
dome.  The  whole  of  the  structure  is  supported  by 


344 


four  great  arches.  On  each  side  is  a grand  entrance 
formed  by  a single  pointed  arch  rising  almost  to  the 
cornice,  and  with  these  two  smaller  ones  one  above 
the  other  on  either  hand. 

Having  given  the  proportions  and  outlines  of  the 
central  octagonal  figure  we  will  add  its  deftendent,  or 
supplemental  structures,  and  begin  again  on  the  red 
sand-stone  platform,  which  is  nine  hundred  and  sixty- 
four  by  three  hundred  and  twenty-nine  feet.  At  each 
corner  is  a magnificent  tower,  or  minaret,  rising  about 
two  hundred  feet,  crowned  by  a marble  kiosk,  or  cupola, 
looking  from  the  ground  like  a bird  cage  of  Saracenic 
columns  and  arches  overtopped  by  a dome.  There  are 
two  mosques,  on  the  east  and  west  sides,  of  a style 
material  and  finish  harmonizing  with  the  whole,  each 
having  a central  and  smaller  domes  and  cupolas.  The 
western  mosque  only  is  used  for  worship.  The  eastern 
one  was  built  for  harmony  of  design  and  architectural 
effect,  and  is  called  jawab,  or  “ answer”  to  the  other. 
The  grandeur  of  the  Taj  is  not  only  in  its  magnificent 
proportions,  its  original  conceptions  as  to  form,  its 
peerless  material,  its  incomparable  location,  but  its 
finish  is  without  comparison.  No  jewel-box  of  ivory 
ever  left  Hindu  hand  more  curiously  or  perfectly 
wrought.  Every  part,  even  the  basement,  the  dome 
and  upper  galleries  of  the  minarets,  are  inlaid  with 
ornamental  designs  in  marble  of  different  colors.  The 
arches  are  embellished,  as  are  also  the  portals  and 
windows,  with  the  most  ingenious  designs  executed  in 
marvellous  perfection. 

On  the  cornices  and  domes  and  around  the  recesses 
formed  by  projecting  pillars  and  on  the  walls  are  pas- 
sages of  the  Koran  in  letters  formed  of  black  marble. 
It  is  believed  by  those  qualified  to  state  it  that  the 


whole  Koran  is  thus  imbedded  in  the  walls  of  the  Taj. 
This  jewel  of  man’s  creation  produces  the  impression 
that  it  is  the  work  of  superhuman  beings,  and  lifts  the 
thoughts  nearer  to  the  ideal  and  wonderful  creations 
of  the  Apocalypse  than  any  other  work  on  the  face 
of  the  earth.  If  it  is  surv^eyed  from  above  it  loses 
nothing  of  its  sublimity.  From  one  of  the  minarets^ 
reached  by  a winding  stairway,  an  outlook  may  be 
had  from  a height  of  two  hundred  feet,  and  the  eye 
wanders  half-dazed  among  slender  spires  and  mina- 
rets, as  if  among  the  polished  shafts  of  icebergs  in 
the  Polar  seas,  variegated  by  sunshine  from  a cloud- 
less sky,  and  even  these  are  relieved  from  every  ten- 
dency to  w^eary  by  intervening  varieties  of  domes  of 
glistening  whiteness  and  kiosks  between  like  pearls 
fringed  with  diamonds. 

The  central  dome  is  the  crown  pearl  in  the  won- 
drous group.  Along  the  edge  of  a low  parapet  is  a 
rich  border  of  exquisite  mosaics,  and  around  every 
minaret,  from  pavement  to  the  dome  crown,  are  inlaid 
wavy  lines  of  black  marble  set  in  the  wFite,  in  a man- 
ner so  artful  as  to  give  the  whole  a bluish  or  pearl- 
like color.  If  the  entranced  observer  stands  before 
the  sublime  porte,  or  portal,  looking  toward  the  en- 
trance gate  into  the  garden,  he  will  see  a wainscot 
embellished  by  its  own  polished  whiteness  and  with 
lilies  and  roses  of  Sharon  in  bos  relief  within  a border 
of  matchless  design  of  jewelled  vines,  which  bud  in 
rubies  and  cornelians,  with  leaves  of  malachite  and 
emeralds ; and  this  bordering  extends  around  the  in- 
side bases  of  all  doors  and  window  recesses.  Any 
further  description  of  the  outside  would  only  confuse 
the  thoughts  if  time  and  ability  had  the  temerity  to 
go  further.  We  enter  with  our  reader  to  the  more 


346 


wonderful  interior  and  begin  at  the  basement,  such 
only  in  position,  not  in  finish,  where  lies  in  dust, 
imprisoned  in  glory,  the  beautiful  Nur  Jahan,  mis- 
tress of  the  palace,  discrowned  by  death  that  man 
might  give  her  immortality  through  heaven-given 
genius. 

The  passage  is  a sloping  descent  whose  walls  and 
floor  have  been  so  polished  by  the  hands  and  bare 
feet  of  the  millions  of  devotees  that  there  is  danger  of 
slipping  and  lying  as  low  as  the  illustrious  dead.  No 
light  enters  except  what  comes  through  the  door,  and 
this  lights  with  subdued  splendor  the  tomb  of  the 
queen.  The  air  is  heavy  with  the  dying  odors  of 
tropical  flowers  brought  by  beautiful  maidens  laden 
with  ofierings  of  nature’s  perishing  beauties,  so  that  her 
death  is  still  the  occasion  of  continual  sacrifice  of  life. 
The  Emperor,  Shah  Jehan,  gets  no  such  tributes ; the 
reason  is  said  to  be  the  excessive  anti-idolatrous 
zeal  of  Aurungzebe,  who  feared  that  in  their  coming 
some  impious  foot  might  tread  on  the  words  “ God” 
and  “ Mohammed.”  The  sarcophagus  of  Shah  Jehan 
has  on  it  this  inscription  in  Persian : — “ The  magnifi- 
cent tomb  of  the  King  Inhabitant  of  two  heavens, 
Ridun  and  Khool.  The  most  sublime  sitters  on  the 
throne  in  illeefyun  (starry  heaven) — dweller  in  para- 
dise— Shah  Jehan,  Padshah  Gazel  (peace  to  his  re- 
mains, and  heaven  is  for  him.)  His  death  took  place 
the  26th  day  Rejub,  in  the  year  1665.  From  this  transi- 
tory world  eternity  hath  marched  him  off  to  the  next.” 
Over  the  spot  where  his  face  is  supposed  to  be  is  a 
figure  resembling  a star  which  was  once  set  with 
diamonds,  but  these  are  gone,  made  away  with  by 
vandal  hands,  teaching  that  there  is  no  glory  that  is 
not  stealable  which  is  not  in  the  character  itself.  All 
the  figures  of  baser  stones  are  as  perfect  as  when  formed. 


347 


This  is  the  only  instance  in  kingly  circles  where 
man  has  been  laid  in  humbler  position  than  woman. 
Here  in  these  memorials  of  death  the  weaker  is  the 
more  honored.  Whether  this  was  Shah  Jehan’s  choice, 
or  whether  those  who  might  after  his  death  have 
raised  him  in  the  splendor  of  his  mausoleum  above  his 
wife  neglected  him,  is  not  known ; but  his  is  the  humbler 
and  less  pretentious  tomb,  and  it  is  charitable,  at  least, 
to  give  him  the  glory  of  the  humility,  be  it  from  acci- 
dent or  neglect.  The  dead  give  but  little  thought, 
but  the  place  of  the  remains  of  life  commands  wonder 
and  admiration.  The  ceilings,  walls  and  tombs  are  a 
mass  of  matchless  mosaics,  representing  birds,  fruits, 
flowers,  in  every  form  which  ingenuity  could  invent 
or  imagination  conceive,  amounting  to  millions  of 
shapes  fitted  into  the  design  and  harmonized  with  it. 
These  are  the  true  tombs  and  hold  the  dust  of  dis- 
solved greatness.  Those  on  the  pavement  above  are 
for  display,  and  are  built  over  emptiness.  We  leave 
the  imprisoned  ashes  and  their  magnificent  environ- 
ments to  go  above  and  survey  the  ideal  forms  which 
still  command  homage  to  the  power  and  genius  of 
more  than  two  centuries  ago. 

These  monuments  to  the  genius  o^*  the  builders  of 
monuments  are  in  the  grand  hall,  above  which  is  a 
lofty  rotunda  bghted  both  from  above  and  below  by 
perforated  screens — a stone  lacework  of  marble  and 
jasper,  and  ornamented  with  a 'wainscoting  of  sculp- 
tured tablets  representing  flowers.  The  dustless, 
boneless  tombs,  monuments  to  the  spirituality  of  in- 
tellect rather  than  to  the  remnants  of  mortality,  are 
of  the  purest  marble  exquisitely  inlaid  with  blood- 
stone, agate,  cornelian,  lapis  lazuli  and  other  variations 
of  rare  and  costly  stones,  and  surrounded  by  an  octag- 


348 


onal  screen  six  feet  high,  in  the  open  tracery  of  which 
lilies,  irises  and  other  flowers  are  inwrought.  This 
screen  conforms  to  the  plan  of  the  building  in  form 
and  proportions.  The  circumference  is  ninety-six  feet 
and  the  diameter  of  space  enclosed  is  thirty-two  feet,  the 
delicate  marble  filagree  work  appearing  like  draperies 
of  lace  between  pillars.  Beneath  the  cornice  are  thou- 
sands of  inlaid  cornelians,  agates,  rubies,  emeralds, 
blood-stones,  carbuncles,  garnets,  onyx,  green  marble 
and  malachite.  Trailing  vines  beautify  and  variegate ; 
each  stalk  and  bud  of  which  is  represented  by  jewels 
in  its  appropriate  color  and  shade.  The  same  general 
ornamentation  is  traced  on  the  corners  and  panels  of 
the  screens.  It  is  said,  by  one  curious  and  patient 
enough  to  count,  that  the  precious  stones  in  the  two 
pedestals  on  which  the  sarcophagus  of  Nur  Jehan 
rests  number  one  hundred  thousand,  and  those  on  the 
Emperor’s  at  three  hundred  thousand,  and  this  is,  no 
doubt,  far  below  the  true  number. 

The  pavement  on  which  the  inquisitive  millions  of 
devotees  and  tourists  have  walked  for  more  than  two- 
hundred  years  is  in  harmony  with  all  the  rest — both 
unique  and  beautiful.  The  ground  work  is  white  mar- 
ble in  diamond  squares  bordered  in  black  marble,  a 
kind  of  star  pattern,  which  is  in  pleasing  adaptation 
and  variety.  Over  all  and  greatest  of  all  is  the  in- 
terior dome,  seventy  feet  in  diameter  and  arching 
overhead  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet,  tke  most  mar- 
vellous creation  of  the  kind  on  the  earth,  both  in  its 
vastness  and  its  lightness ; it  appears  to  hang  in  the  air 
as  a bell  supported  by  the  hands  of  unseen  Titans. 
The  light  that  glorifies  it  is  changed  by  it  into  its  own 
image  from  glory  to  glory. 


V 


349 


In  its  acoustic  effects  the  Taj  is  still  more  surprising. 
The  echoings  and  re-echoings,  swelling  into  thunders 
and  dying  into  melodious  whispers  in  the  Baptistry 
of  Pisa,  are  only  the  effects  of  a toy  compared  with 
this.  They  are  only  surprising ; this  is  overwhelming 
and  sublime.  A single  musical  note,  moderately 
uttered,  soars  as  if  caught  and  reproduced  on  lips  and 
harps.  It  is  heard  at  one  side  and  then  at  another, 
as  if  the  winged  harmony  were  checked  alternately 
by  prison  walls  and  broken  by  its  smitings,  down 
from  the  major  to  the  plaintive  minor,  as  if  some 
grieved  and  heart-broken  spirit  were  uttering  its 
plaints  fainter  and  fainter,  until  its  last  note  comes 
as  if  from  lips  that  have  died.  What  funereal  wails 
were  caught  up  into  harmonies  in  the  strains  of  Per- 
sian lament  chanted  here  by  mourning  women,  when 
the  Emperor,  his  sons,  daughters  and  retinue,  were 
bowing  to  the  east  and  calling  to  Allah  from  that 
pavement  which  sends  up  every  whisper  to  be  trans- 
formed into  harmony  and  brought  back  sanctified  in 
the  change,  as  the  dust  of  Nur  Jehan  was  carried 
down  the  marble  steps  into  its  final  resting-place! 
What  responses  would  come  up  from  below  to  join 
those  above,  to  form  wavelike  symphonies  in  that 
arched  section  of  the  skies  I This  is  not  grandeur 
without  devotion.  The  place  suggests  the  spirit- 
uality of  God  and  of  the  worship  becoming  the 
Spirit,  infinite  and  eternal.  All  its  ornaments — all 
its  splendor  of  man’s  elaboration  and  adornments, 
lead  the  soul  out  into  the  unknowable  but  awful,  as 
the  limitless  sense  of  the  undefined  oppresses  the 
soul.  The  sternest  natures  hav«  given  away  before 
it,  and  have  gone  into  impassioned  silence  or  ex- 
pressed their  emotions  in  tears.  It  is  the  inspiration  of 


350 


God  in  great  souls,  embodied  in  form.  Genius  and 
art  have  wrought  as  twins,  and  the  result  is  more  than 
sublime.  It  is  the  ideal  of  a dream  imprisoned  in 
stone,  a solitary  wonder  never  to  be  repeated. 

There  have  been  controversies,  settling  nothing  as  to 
the  conception  and  direction  of  the  work,  whether  it 
were  not  European.  The  chief  reason  given  is  the  re- 
semblance of  the  screens  about  the  sarcophagi  and  the 
workmanship  of  the  tomb  to  Florentine  mosaic,  and 
from  comparisons  so  slender  and  doubtful  it  is  in- 
ferred that  the  architect  was  an  Italian;  but  the  im- 
pression made  upon  a thoughtful  observer  who  has 
no  theory  to  support,  nor  pride  of  country  to  uphold 
at  every  cost,  is  that  the  Taj  is  as  much  Indian  as  any 
structure  in  India,  and  more  Mohammedan  than  the 
architecture  of  Italy  is  Roman  and  Roman  Catholic. 

The  Taj  is  the  highest  accomplished  ideal  of  Sara- 
cenic art  and  architecture.  But  we  have  the  names 
of  the  Moslem  architect  and  his  coadjutors  ju’eserved. 
The  Emperor  caused  a list  of  the  kind  of  stones  used 
to  be  made  in  Persian  characters  on  a stone  tablet, 
where  they  were  procured,  and  the  price  paid,  and 
also  the  names  of  the  workmen  and  their  salaries. 
“Head  master  or  architect,  Isa  Mohamed;  chief  or 
head  illuminator  and  master  of  the  mosaic  work, 
Amarand  Kahn,  of  Shiraz.”  The  master  mason  was 
Mohamed  Kunif,  of  Bagdad.  The  salaries  of  the 
head  workmen  were  the  same,  one  thousand  rupees 
(five  hundred  dollars)  per  month.  The  list  of  stones 
was  as  follows  — Turquoise  from  Thibet ; Lapis  lazuli 
from  Ceylon;  Coral  from  Arabia;  Garnets  from 
Bundelcund;  Diamonds  from  Punah;  Crystals  from 
China;  Rock  spar  from  Kurbuddah;  Chalcedony 
fromValate;  Amethyst  from  Persia;  Sapphire  from 


351  . 


Junka;  Cornelians  from  Bagdad;  Bloodstone  from 
Gwalior;  Onyx  from  Persia;  White  marble  from 
Jeypore  and  Rajputana;  Yellow  marble  from  Niir- 
buddah;  Black  marble  from  Charkow;  Pudding  stone 
from  Jassilmere;  Jasper  from  Punjab.  The  mind  wearies 
over  the  effort  to  picture  and  describe  all  this  magnifi- 
cence— a sense  of  failure  overwhelms  us,  and  we  are 
glad  to  leave  the  scene  of  splendor  and  to  come  down 
from  this  mount  of  human  transfiguration.  It  is  with 
a full  sense  of  becoming  reverence  that  the  allusion  and 
comparison  are  made.  The  poverty  of  the  mind  in 
finding  comparisons  has  compelled  it,  but  thei*3  is  a 
transfiguring  effect  in  it,  for  it  has  power  to  change 
its  impressions  in  the  light.  Early  in  the  morning, 
before  the  sun  is  up,  it  appears  light  blue;  in  the 
rising  beams  of  the  sun  it  is  tranfigured  into  roseate 
hues,  and  as  the  sun’s  rays  become  more  oblique  it  is 
changed  into  a golden  vesture  woven  of  sunbeams. 
When  a storm  lowers  and  the  dark  blue  firmament  is 
dappled  with  clouds,  it  puts  on  the  violet  hues.  It  is 
most  changeful  and  mystic  in  the  glory  of  the  moon, 
when  its  proportions  are  magnified,  w^hile  they  are 
attenuated  into  the  unreal.  As  seen  from  the  entrance 
gateway  it  looks  like  a j^alace  floating  in  the  motion 
of  a balloon  and  coquetting  with  the  beholder,  for  as 
it  is  approached  it  recedes.  The  moonbeams  by  their 
deceptive  indistinctness  magnify  all  in  proportion  until 
it  becomes  a palace  and  temple  let  down,  like  the 
New  Jerusalem,  from  above. 

There  is  a contrast  to  this  dome  which  tells  the  un- 
pleasant fact  that  none  appreciate  man’s  grandeur  but 
himself.  Nature  scorns  it,  and  the  animals  defile  his 
sublimest  attainments.  There  is  a space  between  the 
exterior  dome  and  that  of  the  interior  vault  of  the 


352 


ceiling,  and  of  this  hiding  place  the  bats  have  taken 
possession  in  almost  countless  numbers,  and  treat 
it  as  a stable.  The  roar  of  their  wings  is  deafening. 
Through  the  echoing  power  of  the  dome  it  is  as  the 
noise  of  mighty  waters  in  the  Apocalyptic  descrip- 
tions. No  one  has  been  able  to  dislodge  them  from 
their  kingdom  of  darkness.  The  governn  ents  have 
offered  tempting  bribes  for  their  removal  and  the 
cleansing  of  the  place,  but  the  air  has  become  so  fetid 
and  offensive  that  none  can  be  found  with  the  temerity 
to  undertake  it.  So  man’s  glory  and  his  humiliation 
exist  through  the  ages  side  by  side. 

In  the  court  of  the  mosque  stands  a contrivance  in- 
tended to  illustrate  the  ideas  of  the  day  of  the  stability 
of  Shah  Jehan’s  empire.  It  is  a curious  pillar  made 
of  porous  stone  and  so  admirably  balanced  on  its  plinth 
that  it  can  be  pushed  with  all  a man’s  weight  only  so  far 
either  way  that  it  will  instantly  right  itself,  and  so  the 
empire  might  be  shaken  thought  the  builder  Mohamed 
Kunif,  but  it  is  an  ingenious  monument  to  his  own 
ignorance,  for  Shah  Jehansoon  became  a prisoner  and 
died  a prisoner  in  his  own  palace.  Shah  Jehan  is 
said  to  have  commenced  another  mausoleum  for  him- 
self on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  intending  to  con- 
nect the  two  by  a bridge,  but  his  shekels  gave  out, 
and  the  troubles  of  civil  war  and  the  loss  of  the  ad- 
venturous spirit  by  old  age,  which  led  to  his  final  fall, 
destroyed  this  hope,  the  loss  of  which  has  made  the 
world  poorer.  Across  the  river  is  the  tomb  of  Itmud- 
ud-Daulah  in  a beautiful  garden,  in  which  nature  has 
been  taxed  to  her  utmost  to  bring  forth  her  tribute  oi 
beauty  and  fragrance.  It  stands  within  a quadrangu- 
lar enclosure  upon  a marble  platform.  The  mauso- 
leum is  of  the  white  marble  of  Jeypore  fifty  feet  square 


353 


and  twelve  feet  high,  at  each  corner  is  a round  marble 
tower  forty  feet  high  surmounted  by  a marble  kiosk. 
In  the  centre  of  the  roof  is  a marble  canopy,  the  sides 
being  of  marble  openwork  in  elaborate  design,  and  the' 
whole  inlaid  in  mosaic.  This  creation  holds  the  remains 
of  the  adventurer  from  Persia,  wPo  brought  himself  and 
all  his  belongings  to  India  in  a bullock  cart.  It  was, 
however,  a good  cart,  and  became  a kind  of  Cinderella 
and  her  glass  slipper,  to  the  family.  In  it  was  born 
the  celebrated  Nur  Mahal,  wife  of  Jehangir  and  aunt 
of  the  lady  of  the  Taj.  This  adventurer  became  a 
famous  minister  of  the  Empire,  not  by  brevet,  but  by 
merit  and  service,  and  this  beautiful  tomb  was  erected 
to  his  memory  by  his  illustrious  daughter.  These  are 
but  a few  of  the  wonders  and  beauties  of  Agra,  and  if 
our  readers  are  as  tired  as  we  are  they  will  join  in  the 
Quantum  sufficit. 

CHAPTER  XXXIV. 

CAWNFOEE  AND  ITS  BLOODY  RECORDS. 

The  triumphs  of  genius  and  art  are  now  left 
behind,  and  our  way  is  through  bloody  grounds 
which  have  left  their  record  on  the  darkest  pages  of 
history.  About  six  hours  south-east  of  Agra  is  a 
city  of  perfidy  and  massacre,  unapproachable  even  in 
the  bloodthirsty  Orient.  Cawnpore  is  a name  so 
deeply  dyed  that  all  the  waters  of  multitudinous  seas 
cannot  wash  it  clean.  The  place  was  entered  under 
the  cover  of  the  darkness,  and  when  the  cloudless  sun 
rose  none  could  imagine  that  it  was  the  spot  where 
the  hours  and  powers  of  darkness  had  held  supreme 
sway.  We  must  locate  in  Christian  Britain  the  first 
movements  of  the  story  which  now  follows. 


354 


There  is  a passion  in  England  for  the  entertaining 
and  adulation  of  Oriental  adventurers — an  ill-judged, 
vulgar  hospitality  which  warms  serpents  into  life.  The 
traditional  character  of  such  people  ought  to  de- 
prive them  of  all  trust  until  they  show  themselves 
w'orthy  of  hospitality,  the  very  sacrament  of  confi- 
dence. While  there  are  men  and  women  of  the 
Oriental  races  deserving  of  social  recognition  they 
are  so  few,  and  their  characters  are  so  well-known 
and  vouched  for,  that  they  can  be  honored  without 
dishonor.  But  these  are  entitled  to  no  more  respect 
than  men  of  like  character  and  capacities  in  our  own 
country,  whom  many  of  these  vulgar  people  would 
never  think  of  asking  into  their  companionship. 
“ Fools  make  feasts  and  wise  men  eat  them”  is  the 
verdict  which  experience  has  only  verified.  Too  much 
faith  in  humanity  is  as  wicked  as  too  little,  though  as 
a sentiment  it  is  not  so  beautiful.  A small  fragment 
of  London  society,  or  sensation  mongers,  had,  during 
1855  and  1856,  a genuine  specimen  of  what  they  desired 
— an  Oriental  swell;  a stylish,  sleek,  oily-tongued  pimp, 
who  was  out  recruiting  for  his  master.  ‘‘  Is  he  not  just 
splendid?”  was  the  refrain  over  his  bad  English,  his 
graceful  ways,  his  dark  eyes,  his  fine  shawls  and  his 
sparkling  jewels.  This  fondled  vagabond,  this  cobra 
with  sleek  skin  and  fascinating  eyes,  was  Azimulla 
Khan,  the  moving  spirit  and  the  shadowed  hand  of 
all  the  deviltries  that  stained  with  blood  the  year  1857. 
This  pampering  of  dashing  and  pretentious  adven- 
turers is  not  British  alone;  it  is  American  as  well, 
and  we  have  disgraced  ourselves  perhaps  as  often, 
considering  our  opportunities,  but  not  with  such 
national  disaster. 

This  much-petted  Hindu  monster  was  a spy  sending 
pessimistic  accounts  of  English  military  weakness; 


355 


their  disasters  in  Sebastopol  were  commented  upon 
adversely;  their  inability  to  hold  power  was  proved 
from  them.  Every  thing  English  was  depreciated,  and 
his  missives  fanned  national  hopes  and  hatreds  in 
India  into  flame.  He  was  the  bosom,  friend  of  that 
other  incarnate  fiend,  Nana  Sahib,  whose  grievances 
were  avenged  in  the  bloody  scenes  of  the  darkest  pages 
of  history.  If  the  devil  has  ever  had  an  incarnation  it 
occurred  in  India  at  the  village  of  Bithoor  on  the  Ganges. 
There  lived  a Hindu  of  rank  named  Doondhoo  Punth, 
but  known  among  the  English  as  N ana  Sahib.  He  was 
the  adopted  son  of  Bagee  Bao,  the  last  Peishwa,  or  head 
of  the  Mahratta  confederacy,  and  inherited  his  houses, 
landed  estates,  jewels,  &c.  This  man  felt  outraged  at 
an  indignity  which  stung  him  to  the  quick.  He  be- 
lieved that  he  had  not  only  inherited  the  estates  of  his 
adopted  father,  but  his  titles  and  honors  as  well. 
Five  years  before  the  mutiny  the  death  of  Bagee  Rao 
occurred,  and  Lord  Dalhousie,  for  the  English  govern- 
ment, announced  that  the  titular  dignity  had  ceased,  and 
that  the  heir  by  adoption,  Nana  Sahib,  could  only  succeed 
to  his  private  property  ; his  pension  and  the  customary 
salute  of  a few  guns  accorded  to  those  of  his  dignity  had 
ceased.  This  young  upstart,  with  a vanity  Oriental, 
took  this  as  an  indignity  to  himself,  and  made  desper- 
ate, but  vain,  efibrts  to  have  the  order  for  the  salutes 
restored ; for  these  are,  with  Indian  princes,  the  highest 
expression  of  honor.  And  when  the  occasion  arrived 
his  grievance  came  forth  as  the  demon  of  ven- 
geance. On  the  morning  of  the  6th  of  June  the 
native  troops  mutinied  and  marched  out  of  Kalian- 
pur,  the  first  stage  on  the  Delhi  road,  determined,  no 
doubt,  to  reinforce  the  main  body  at  the  Moghul  capi- 
tal. Th»  mutiny  began  by  a demonstration  in  the 


356 


form  of  burning  European  bungalows  and  the  gath- 
ering of  notorious  crowds  and  demonstration  of  muti- 
nous native  s-'ddiers.  The  following  description  was 
written  by  one  of  Havelock’s  soldiers : 

“ When  General  Wheeler  perceived  these  indica- 
tions of  coming  trouble,  he  desired  the  European  offi- 
cers of  native  regiments  to  ascertain,  if  possible,  the 
c-tuse  of  disaffection.  These  officers,  therefore,  left 
their  wives  and  families  in  their  bungalows  and  re- 
mained with  their  regiments  in  the  cantonments  four 
or  five  days,  and  took  over  the  command  from  the 
native  officers,  and  received  from  them  the  keys  of 
the  stores  of  arms  and  ammunition.  The  native 
officers  were  indignant  that  the  keys  should  be  taken 
away  from  them,  as  they  and  their  forefathers  had  held 
them  for  years. 

“They  were  informed  that  it  was  by  order  of  gov- 
ernment. A few  days  after  the  keys  were  given  back 
for  the  purpose  of  getting  out  their  arms  for  a parade 
ordered  by  the  General.  The  men  took  the  arms 
and  fell  in  on  parade.  When  the  parade  was  over 
they  refused  to  give  up  their  arms,  and  made  a deal 
of  noise,  but  at  the  time  did  no  actual  violence. 
About  the  middle  of  the  night  the  officers,  lying  on 
their  charpoys  (cots)  in  the  midst  of  their  regiments, 
used  to  be  awakened  by  guns  fired  over  their  heads, 
but  could  obtain  no  explanation  from  their  men.  At 
the  same  time  chappatties  (thin  flat  cakes)  were  be- 
ing circulated  in  all  directions,  from  regiment  to  regi- 
ment. Once  the  cake  was  broken  it  was  considered 
that  the  oath  to  the  government,  or  ‘John  Company,’ 
was  supposed  to  be  broken.  When  General  Wheeler 
saw  that  discipline  was  at  an  end,  he  told  the  Euro- 
pean officers  of  those  native  regiments  to  look  to  their 


357 


families,  and  at  the  same  time  ordered  some  hundred 
coolies  to  dig  a ditch  and  throw  up  the  earth  so  as  to 
form  a low  wall  round  the  spot  selected  for  the  en- 
trenchment. When  it  was  nearly  finished  the  Gen- 
eral issued  an  order,  and  sent  round  notices  to  be 
signed  by  the  whole  of  the  European  garrison,  civili- 
ans and  every  one  else,  stating  that  if  they  did  not 
come  into  the  entrenchment  within  so  many  hours  he 
would  not  be  responsible  for  their  safety,  as  the  native 
troops  had  mutinied.  Up  to  this  time  no  damage  had 
been  done  beyond  firing  the  bungalows.  Nana  was 
in  communication  with  General  Wheeler,  who  be- 
lieved him  to  be  friendly,  whom  he  assured  the  rebels 
would  do  no  damage,  but  would  fall  in  and  march  to 
Delhi.  The  Nana,  however,  advised  the  General  to 
collect  all  the  Europeans  in  Cawnpore  and  vicinity 
together  in  some  convenient  place.  The  General 
suggested  the  magazine,  but  Nana  replied  that  it 
was  too  dangerous,  and  he  would  take  care  of  it. 
Then  the  storehouse  of  the  heavy  guns  and  ammu- 
nition was  mentioned,  but  ‘Nana’  said  ‘there  was 
a bungalow  close  by,  from  which  the  rebels  could 
fire  upon  the  women  and  children,  and  it  was  then 
that  the  spot  for  the  entrenchment  was  fixed  upon  as  be- 
ing an  open  plain,  affording  little  or  no  cover  to  the 
enemy.  General  Wheeler,  when  the  entrenchment 
was  nearly  completed,  issued  an  order  that  the  whole 
of  the  garrison  and  the  civilians  (with  their  families) 
who  had  signed  his  memorandum  should  come  in ; 
consequently  they  came  in  provided  with  clothing 
and  necessaries  to  last  them  eight  or  twelve  hours, 
expecting  that  by  that  time  the  rebels  would  have 
marched  to  Delhi.  The  rebels  had  proceeded  one 
day’s  march  out  of  Cawnpore  and  were  starting 


I 


35S 


the  second  morning  when  a message  was  received 
from  the  ‘ Nana’  that  the  English  were  all  in  the  en- 
trenchments.” After  the  Europeans  were  all  in  the 
barracks,  their  calamities  came  thick  and  fast — the 
issue  sped  on  the  wings  of  vengeance. 

General  Wheeler,  who  was  in  command,  a good 
and  sincere  man,  was  afflicted  with  too  much  faith  in 
the  representative,  at  least,  of  a conquered  race,  and 
therefore  caused  as  much  mischief  by  his  over-confi- 
dence as  if  he  had  been  a traitor  outright.  He  threw 
himself  and  those  under  his  protection  in  the  claws 
of  the  tiger.  He  and  his  forces  and  their  dependents 
went  into  the  trap  prepared  at  the  suggestion  of  Nana 
in  the  depot  barracks,  the  site  of  which  is  now  desig- 
nated by  the  Memorial  church.  There  were  within 
this  extemporized  fortification,  two  barracks,  one 
story  high,  each  holding  a company  ; one  was  built  of 
thatch,  and  the  other  of  masonry.  Within  this  enclo- 
sure were  some  officers  and  a well,  which  we  saw  bearing 
now  the  marks  of  roundshot  upon  its  enclosure.  Around 
this  fragile  protection  a trench  had  been  dug  and  an 
embankment  thrown  up  about  four  feet  high,  the 
outlines  of  which  were  recovered  and  marked  by  order 
of  the  Prince  of  Wales  a few  years  ago.  Openings 
were  made  in  these  earth-works  for  the  guns,  but  there 
was  no  protection  for  the  gunners.  The  whole  number 
of  guns  was  ten,  of  all  sizes  and  calibre,  and  a scant 
supply  of  indifferent  provisions,  not  sufficient  for  ten 
days,  much  less  for  the  fearful  month  through  which 
they  had  to  sustain  fainting  life  ere  death  came  to 
their  relief. 

*Durinor  the  siecje  of  Wheeler’s  band  all  the  en- 
trenchments  were  under  fire  of  the  rebel  guns.  On 
the  left  was  a bungalow  held  by  the  rebels,  from 


359 


whicli  they  could  fire  on  the  only  well  from  which  the 
beleaguered  men,  women  and  children  could  get  a 
drop  of  water.  Into  the  other  well,  t^wo  hundred 
yards  outside  the  entrenchment,  held  by  Captains 
Thompson  and  Jenkins,  expobed  on.  the  plain  now 
enclosed  in  a garden  cemetery,  were  thrown  the  bodies 
of  those  who  first  died  in  the  entrenchments  from 
cholera,  small-pox,  heat  and  wounds.  Captain  Jen- 
kins, who  held  a bungalow  near  this  well,  kept  up  a 
constant  fire  to  cover  the  movements  of  those  carrying 
out  the  dead  for  their  watery  burial.  This  well  is  now 
walled  over  and  its  surroundings  beautified  by  flowers 
and  ornamental  trees,  and  over  it  is  a large  cross,  with 
smaller  ones  at  each  corner  of  the  little  cemetery 
garden.  Never  did  burial  sentiments  touch  our  heart 
as  these  did;  the  tears  would  come  however  much  one 
might  brace  himself  against  them.  On  this  central 
cross  was  engraved  “ Here  were  laid  by  the  hands  of 
their  fellows  in  suffering  the  bodies  of  those  men, 
women  and  children  who  died  near-by,  during  the 
heroic  defence  of  Wheeler’s  entrenchment,  when  be- 
leaguered by  the  rebel  Nana,  June  6th  to  27th,  1857.” 
On  the  pedestal  of  the  cross  is  that  sublime  utterance 
of  the  divine  word  which  we  had  read  in  the  one 
hundred  and  forty-second  Psalm,  but  had  never  ap- 
preciated its  soul-stirring  pathos  and  beauty  before. 
“Our  bones  are  scattered  at  the  grave’s  mouth,  as 
when  one  cutteth  and  cleaveth  w'ood  upon  the  earth, 
but  our  eyes  are  unto  thee  O God,  the  Lord.”  The 
smaller  crosses  have  on  them  the  names  of  the  officers 
and  men  whose  bodies  were  thrown  into  this  well.  ^ 
Soon  its  defenders,  while  their  companions  buried 
their  dead  £rom  within  the  walls  of  the  two  barracks, 
had  to  leave  and  take  refuge  with  the  rest,  as  the  rebels 


360 


Lad  concentrated  on  them  a constant  fire.  Captain 
Jenkins  was  wounded  and  died,  and  his  body  was 
also  thrown  into  this  well.  His  monument  is  a cross. 
Of  this  company  of  sixteen,  who  defendt-d  the  burial 
well  only  one.  Private  Murphy,  escaped.  Pie  also 
survived  the  massacre,  which  came  after.  Captain 
Thompson  and  Lieutenant  Delafosse,  comrades  in  the 
same  boat,  were  killed,  but  he  clung  to  pieces  of  the  boat 
and  swam  until  dark,  after  which  he  with  one  refugee 
sought  rest  in  a Hindu  temple.  Some  of  the  obser’<  - 
ing  rebels  determined  to  smoke  them  out,  and  to  this 
end  piled  bramble  brush  and  wood  at  the  door  and 
set  fire  to  it,  but  the  smoke  did  not  reach  them 
sufficiently  to  injure  them.  The  rebels,  suppos- 
ing that  they  were  killed,  left,  and  they  escaped  to 
Futehpore.  During  all  this  time  the  treacherous 
Hana  had  been  the  counsellor  of  the  credulous 
Wheeler  as  to  how  to  protect  the  helpless  women  and 
children  from  the  rebels,  and  to  him  had  been  com^ 
mitted  the  armory  and  treasury  of  the  government. 
He  was  in  constant  communication  with  the  rebels^ 
and  sent  those  word  to  return  to  Cawnpore  who  it 
was  supposed  were  going  to  Delhi,  which  they  did, 
surrounding  the  entrenchment.  A battery  of  three 
guns  was  planted  at  St.  John’s  church,  two  hundred 
and  fifty  yards  away,  entirely  commanding  the  en» 
closure  in  which  Wheeler  and  his  companions  were. 
These  guns  opened  on  their  bungalows  and  nearly 
every  shot  struck  one  or  the  other. 

On  the  eighth  day,  seeing  that  the  English  rem- 
nant had  still  a thatch  covering  over  their  heads,  they 
got  doors  and  windows  from  the  neighboring  bunga- 
lows, which  they  piled  in  a heap,  into  which  they 
fired  hot  round  shot  and  other  inflammables,  setting  on 


361 


fire  the  last  shelter  from  the  burning  heat  of  an  In- 
dian mid-summer,,  and  on  the  coming  day  they  were 
enclosed  only  in  a begrimed,  honeycombed  pen  of 
four  naked  walls,  and  the  work  of  death  by  pestilence^, 
war  and  exhaustion  going  on.  The  men  then  at- 
tempted to  dig  holes  in  the  ground  for  the  shelter  of 
the  helpless  and  dying,  but  this,  for  some  unaccoimta- 
ble  reason,  developed  the  smallpox  to  such  an  alarm- 
ing extent  it  had  to  be  abandoned.  All  the  shelter 
left  for  the"* women  and  children  was  the  ditch  by  their 
low  earth  fortifications  and  from  such  scanty  gar- 
ments as  they  could  find  to  spread  over  bayonets  and 
sticks.  General  AYheeler  had  a tent,  but  when  he 
was  taken  ill  he  was  removed  into  the  magazine. 

On  the  evening  of  the  26th  of  June,  when  the  rem- 
nant was  sinking  into  almost  hopeless  despair,  a letter 
was  received  by  the  hand  of  a Christian  woman,  Mrs^ 
Jacob,  which  was  reported  to  General  Wheeler,  who 
read  it  to  his  staff.  It  was  an  offer  from  Xana 
Sahib  to  provide  all  the  English  with  boats  to  take 
them  to  Allahabad  on  condition  of  surrender  of  all 
arms  and  ammunition.  Wheeler  remarked,  A very 
good  offer,  indeed.  We  had  better  accept  it.’^  Some; 
of  the  older  civilians  said,  “ No.”  Some  of  the  women, 
with  women’s  instinct  of  danger,  said,  “No;  we  had 
better  die  where  we  are.”  The  General  urged  that 
their  losses  had  been  so  severe  while  in  the  entrench- 
ment that  they  'were  now  almost  out  of  ammunition 
and  food,  that  smallpox  and  cholera  were  carrying; 
them  away  every  day,  and  so  senseless  faith  and  des- 
peration prevailed. 

“After  some  discussion  it  was  decided  the  offer 
should  be  accepted,  and  the  General  thereupon  signed 
the  treaty,  and  also  sent  a note  to  the  ‘ Nana’  saying 


362 


that  a committee  of  officers  would  go  down  to  the 
river  and  examine  the  boats.  The  committee  of  offi- 
cers went  to  the  river  the  same  evening  and  found  the 
boats  there.  In  addition  to  the  oi  dinary  country 
boats  there  were  painted  boats  for  the  women,  the 
sick  and  the  wounded.  There  were  no  provisions,  but 
these  were  promised  to  be  put  on  the  boats  during  the 
night.  The  officers  came  back  and  reported,  and  that 
night  there  seemed  to  be  no  care  or  trouble,  and 
many  had  a bath  for  the  first  time  in  twenty-one  days. 
Some  were,  however,  very  apprehensive  of  tieachery. 
The  General  had  arranged  to  open  a breach  to  allow 
the  hackeries  to  come  in  for  the  purpose  of  taking  the 
baggage  to  the  boats ; and  early  in  the  morning  the 
conveyances  were  brought  up  to  the  wall,  and  the 
baggage  loaded  on,  and  supposed  to  go  down  to  the 
boats.  Then  the  ‘ fall  in’  was  sounded,  and  the  sol- 
diers fell  into  line  to  march  out  of  the  entrenchments, 
and  the  women  served  out  the  cakes,  or  chappatties. 
Just  before  the  word  ‘quick  march’  was  given  the 
‘Nana’  sent  a letter  by  a sower  (orderly)  to  General 
Wheeler  saying  he  was  very  sorry  to  inform  him  that 
there  were  not  sufficient  boats  to  convey  the  luggage, 
but  that  the  luggage  would  follow  to  Allahabad 
When  this  was  known  the  ladies  commenced  grumb- 
ling, and  said  they  wanted  a change  of  clothes  which 
were  in  the  boxes.  But  as  the  luggage  was  all  packed 
up  on  the  hackeries  (bullock  carts)  and  tied  down,  it 
could  not  conveniently  be  unloaded,  and  the  word 
was  given  ‘ quick  march’  and  out  of  the  entrenchments 
they  marched  on  the  morning  of  June  27th,  General 
Wheeler  being  carried  in  the  only  palanquin  they 
had.” 


363 


That  march  was  as  sad  as  the  eyes  of  heaven  an<J 
angels  ever  rested  on.  There  were  gentle  women 
who  had  not  been  able  to  change  their  garments 
after  lying  in  ditches  littered  by  rubbish,  spattered 
with  the  blood  of  the  wounded  men,  with  scarcely 
enough  to  cover  them ; and  the  sick  trying  to  drag 
themselves  along,  drooping,  falling,  and  having  to  be 
carried  or  put  in  bullock  carts,  hopeless,  for  by  this 
time  the  conviction  of  treachery  had  taken  hold  of 
every  life.  One  of  the  officers  asked  of  some  one  of 
the  Sepoys,  “ Is  Nana  coming  to  see  us  off?”  He  re- 
plied, ‘‘  Do  you  remember  eighteen  months  ago,  I told 
you  that  the  natives  of  India  would  like  to  make  the 
Europeans  their  servants?  Good  morning,  sir,  the 
day  has  come.”  Poor  exiles  from  their  homes,  far 
away  from  their  children,  many  of  whom  were  in 
England,  and  glad  were  they,  though  no  doubt  long- 
ing to  see  them  once  more,  and  derided  by  a people 
who  were  not  worthy  to  be  set  with  the  dogs  of  their 
fathers’  flocks ! As  they  struggled  toward  the  tragic 
goal,  they  had  to  pass  though  a native  village,  the 
inhabitants  of  which  turned  out  to  jeer  at  them,  to  in- 
sult the  women  by  vile  epithets,  to  shout  and  dance 
with  delight  around  their  heathen  temple,  making  game 
of  the  distress  that  their  perfidy  had  brought  upon 
innocent  hearts.  Passing  this  village,  the  way  was 
lined  by  a gnashing  mob,  even  crowding  on  their  tot- 
tering footsteps.  At  last  the  Suttee  Ghat,  or  sacred 
bathing  place,  was  reached.  They  entered  through  a 
heathen  temple  and  under  a sacred  tree  called  “ Peepul” 
tree,  which  had  grown  to  enormous  proportions,  be 
cause  it  is  an  act  of  worship  whenever  a pitcher  of 
water  is  taken  from  the  Ganges  for  some  to  be  poured 
at  its  roots.  The  Ghat  is  a series  of  steps  rising  from 


364 


out  of  the  wate.’  to  the  top  of  the  bank,  perhaps  fifty 
feet  long  and  thirty  or  forty  steps  high;  to  these 
the  boats  were  to  come  to  take  them  aboard ; at  each 
side  were  stone  parapets,  so  that  they  were  all  securely 
enclosed.  General  Wheeler  saw  that  they  were  at  the 
bathing  place  of  the  women  of  the  old  Peshwar,  and 
turned  to  the  officers  he  had  sent  the  night  before  to 
examine  the  boats,  saying,  “Is  this  the  place?”  They 
replied,  “It  is  not;  that  was  five  hundred  yards 
higher  up  the  river.”  Then  his  heart  failed  him;  he 
woke  up  when  too  late  to  the  dreadful  end  to  which 
they  had  come.  He  walked  down  the  steps  at  the 
river  side  feeble  from  his  sickness,  and  took  his  posi- 
tion, followed  by  his  staff,  where  he  rested  under  the 
shade  of  the  sacred  tree.  The  Nana  and  his  staff 
and  the  mob,  pressing  behind,  occupied  the  opposite 
side  of  the  steps.  The  rebels  were  not  only  pressing 
the  Nana,  but  swarming  on  the  banks  on  both  sides 
of  the  river.  They  had  not  come  out  of  idle  curi- 
osity, but  for  a purpose,  and  were  hurrying  on  to  it. 

The  boats  were  called.  One  came,  and  General 
Wheeler  said  that  the  women  and  children  should 
be  put  on  board  as  fast  as  possible.  Several  had  em- 
barked when  there  appeared  an  excitement  among  the 
rebels,  at  which  General  Wheeler  lifted  his  eyes  to 
heaven  and  folded  his  arms,  as  if  offering  his  dying 
prayer,  and  remained  silent  from  that  moment.*  The 
people  on  the  steps  cried  “treachery,”  and  a panic 
ensued.  While  this  was  going  on  the  Nana  was 
heard  consulting  as  to  who  of  the  women  should  go 
and  who  should  remain,  and  those  selected  were  driven 
back.  The  purposes  of  this  selection  can  easily  be 
imagined.  The  steps  could  only  hold  two  hundred, 
and  the  remaining  fugitives  were  on  the  bank  above 


365 


under  the  shade  of  the  tree  or  in  the  small  temple. 
Twenty-eight  boats  were  loaded  and  sent  adrift,  and 
ten  rebel  boatmen  were  manning  them.  Then  three 
boats  tied  together  were  brought.  It  was  suggested 
that  these  were  for  Wheeler’s  staff,  but  he  again  re- 
fused to  embark  until  the  women  were  all  aboard. 
Kana  had  his  reasons  for  kee]3ing  the  younger  of 
these  back;  he  had  already  embarked  the  older  ones. 
The  three  boats  tied  together  were  soon  filled  with 
women  and  children,  and  the  word  given  to  pull  out, 
when  it  was  found  that  they  were  fastened  by  stakes  in 
the  river  bed,  but  by  hard  pushing  were  broken  loose. 
As  these  boats  moved  out  into  the  river  a flag  was 
hoisted  over  the  heathen  temple,  and  as  soon  as  it  was 
seen  the  boatmen  on  all  the  boats  left  them  and  swam 
to  the  shore.  Then  hell  opened  its  destructive  re- 
sources, and  volley  after  volley  was  poured  in  upon 
the  hapless  remnant  from  every  side.  There  were 
two  batteries  which  had  been  screened  from  view. 
A destructive  fire  was  begun  on  the  remnant  on 
the  steps,  and  then  the  Nana  and  his  staff  rushed 
on  General  Wheeler,  killing  him  instantly.  Where 
he  sat  are  the  stains  of  his  blood.  Our  guide,  one  of 
Havelock’s  soldiers,  ordered  some  of  the  Hindus  who 
had  come  to  bathe,  to  wash  the  steps,  which  revealed 
a dark  stain.  Whether  it  was  his  blood  or  not  he  de- 
clared it  to  be  so,  and  the  natives  confirmed  it. 

After  the  butchery  began  it  was  continued.  One 
boat  after  another  was  sunk,  women  and  children  were 
either  torn  into  fragments  by  the  balls,  drowned  in 
the  river,  or  burned  • in  the  flames  of  the  bamboo- 
covered  boats.  A few  of  the  men  swam  to  the  oppo- 
site shore,  to  be  killed  by  the  rebel  hordes  upon  the 
banks. 


366 


A native  eye-witness  had  the  humanity  and  truth- 
fulness to  disclose  the  facts  as  they  occurred.  He 
gave  in  detail  the  peril  and  disaster  of  all  that  were 
in  the  only  boat  that  escaped.  “ Some  distance  down 
the  river  the  boat  stuck  on  the  shore  and  the  infantry 
and  guns  came  up  and  opened  fire.  The  Sahibs  (for- 
eigners) returned  the  fire  with  their  rifles  from  the 
boats  and  wounded  several  of  the  Sepoys  (native  sol- 
diers) on  the  bank,  who,  therefore,  drew  off  towards 
evening.  At  night  came  a great  rush  of  water  in  the 
river  which  floated  ofl*  the  Sahibs’  boat,  and  they 
passed  down  the  river,  but  owing  to  the  storm  and 
the  dark  night  they  only  proceeded  three  or  four 
koss.  In  the  meantime  intelligence  of  the  Sahibs’ 
defence  had  reached  the  Nana,  and  he  sent  off  that 
night  three  more  companies  and  surrounded  the 
Sahibs’  boats,  and  so  took  them  and  brought  them 
back  to  Cawnpore.  ^ There  came  out  of  that  boat 
sixty  Sahibs  and  twenty-five  mem  Sahibs,  English 
ladies.  The  Nana  ordered  the  mem  Sahibs  (wo-men) 
to  be  separated  from  the  Sahibs  (men)  to  be  shot. 
The  Sahibs  were  seated  on  the  ground,  and  two  com- 
panies placed  themselves  over  against  them  -with  their 
muskets  ready  to  fire.  Then  said  one  of  the  mem 
Sahibs  (women),  the  doctor’s  wife,  H will  not  leave 
my  husband.  If  he  must  die  I will  die  with  him,’ 
so  she  ran  and  sat  down  with  her  husband  and  clasped 
him  round  the  waist.  Directly  she  said  this  the  other 
mem  Sahibs  said,  ‘We  will  also  die  with  our  hus- 
bands.’ Then  their  husbands  said,  ‘Go  back,’  but 
they  would  not.  Whereupon  the  Nana  ordered  his 
soldiers,  and  they  going  in  pulled  them  forcibly 
away,  seizing  them  by  the  arm,  but  they  could  not 
pull  away  the  doctor’s  wife,  who  there  remained. 


367 


Then  just  as  the  Sepoys  were  going  to  fire  the  padre 
(chaplain)  called  out  to  the  Nana  and  requested  to 
read  prayers  before  they  died.  The  Nana  granted  it. 
The  chaplain’s  hands  were  unloosened  so  far  as  to  en- 
able him  to  take  a small  book  out  of  his  pocket,  from 
which  he  read.  After  the  chaplain  had  read  a few 
prayers  he  shut  the  book,  and  after  the  Sahibs  had 
shaken  hands  all  round,  then  the  Sepoys  fired.  One 
Sahib  fell  one  way,  and  another  fell  another  way  as 
they  sat,  but  they  were  not  dead,  only  wounded ; so 
they  went  in  and  finished  them  off  with  swords.” 

The  women  on  Nana’s  side  at  the  Ghat  who  had  been 
kept  back  out  of  the  boats  were  taken  away.  There 
were  still  on  the  steps  about  one  hundred  and  twenty 
officers,  men  and  civilians  who,  with  Major  Vibbard^ 
ffed  to  Shoorajpore,  w^here  they  were  captured  by  a 
picket  of  rebels.  Word  w^as  sent  to  the  Nana,  who 
ordered  them  to  be  imprisoned  in  the  Savada  House, 
a building  down  the  Calcutta  turnpike  still  standing 
but  deserted.  They  were  tied  elbow  to  elbow  after 
each  man’s  hands  had  been  fastened  behind  his  back. 
He  also  ordered  the  women  and  children  at  the  Ghat, 
left  on  the  bank  at  the  Hindu  temple  on  the  river^ 
to  be  taken  to  the  Assembly  Rooms,  two  miles  distant 
with  the  remnant  of  women  saved  from  the  massacre 
in  the  boats. 

On  the  1st  of  July,  the  prisoners  in  the  Savada 
House  were  taken  into  the  yard  one-by-one  and  their 
throats  cut.  The  Rebels  appointed  to  superintend 
the  river  massacre  reported  that. all  on  the  boats  were 
killed  except  a few  picked  up  by  the  way,  which  they 
had  brought  to  him  as  prisoners.  The  Nana  ordered 
these  also  to  be  imprisoned  in  the  Assembly  Rooms 
for  the  night,  and  that  in  the  morning  the  men  should 


36S 


t>e  put  in  another  bungalow.  Some  of  Nana’s  staff 
asked  that  some  of  the  ladies  should  be  given  up  to 
them,  and  they  were  allowed  to  take  some  of  them 
awaj  on  the  promise  to  bring  them  back  on  the  day 
following.  One  of  these  ladies,  a daughter  of  General 
Wheeler,  is  reported  to  have  shot  the  Sepoy  officer 
who  tried  to  take  her,  cut  her  own  throat  and  then 
jumped  into  the  well.  The  officers,  civilians  and 
soldiers  were  confined  in  a bungalow,  thirty  or  forty 
yards  distant  from  the  women  and  children.  The 
latter  were  placed  under  the  care  of  a woman  said  to 
he  a relative  of  the  Nana.  That  night  the  Nana  held 
a najitch  ending  in  a revel  in  his  own  quarters.  But 
in  the  midst  of  these  awful  scenes  the  shadows  of  com- 
ing revenge  disturbed  the  Nana’s  spirit.  He  had 
slaughtered  hundreds  at  the  river ; women  were 
butchered  and  shot  and  burned,  bayoneted  and 
‘drowned.  Close  by  the  altar  of  Suttee  on  which  widows 
had  been  burned  through  centuries,  as  if  in  revenge 
the  English  for  breaking  it  up,  he  sacrificed  some 
of  the  English  women. 

This  bloody  butchery  was  only  the  preface  to  the 
<jhapter  of  horrors  to  be  written  and  read  with  shud- 
fdering.  Thie  women  whom  the  Nana  had  spared 
£or  unspeakable  purposes — the  young  and  beautiful 
whom  he  had  kept  back  when  the  rest  had  embarked 
on  their  voyage  of  death,  together  with  any  who  had 
-escaped,  were  taken  back  to  the  town  and  literally 
stuffed  into  a one-storied  hbuse,  a pen,  but  soon  to  be- 
come both  the  most  famous  and  infamous  spot  on  the 
globe,  now  known  wherever  inhumanity  is  odious  as 
the  House  of  Massacre.  It  consisted  of  two  rooms, 
esLch  ten  by  twenty,  and  five  closets  without  a glint  of 
light  In  this  insufferable  place,  without  either  a ray 


369 


of  hope  or  light,  two  hundred  and  one  English  women, 
refined  and  mostly  of  noble  birth  and  rearing,  with  their 
children,  some  babes  of  but  a few  days  and  weeks,  and 
some  born  amid  the  horrors  of  the  siege,  with  five  men, 
were  confined  nineteen  days  in  that  awful  tropical 
heat,  awaiting  the  determination  of  the  incarnate 
fiend  to  give  them  not  to  death — that  were  a destiny 
beyond  his  widest  stretch  of  mercy — but  to  dishonor. 
Ko  historian  can  depict  in  horrors  the  secrets  over 
which  heaven  drew  its  pall  of  oblivion.  God  would 
not  permit  it  to  be  revealed,  to  be  the  sport  of  the 
low,  nor  perhaps  to  excite  the  merciless  frenzy  of 
the  avengers  of  their  blood  so  soon  to  witness  the 
remnants  of  the  unapproachable  perfidy.  But  mutter- 
ings  of  awful  wrath  came  through  the  air  of  terrible 
bronzed-faced  men  coming  from  Calcutta,  scattering 
hosts  as  chafif  before  the  wind,  taking  no  prisoners, 
asking  no  quarters  and  giving  none.  The  clouds  of 
the  smoke  of  their  cannon  came  over  the  traitor’s 
head,  and  he  began  to  sniff  the  terror  of  fire  and  brim- 
stone from  afar. 

Havelock,  God’s  minister  of  mercy  and  vengeance, 
was,  on  the  15th  of  June,  within  a little  over  a day’s 
march  of  Cawnpore.  He  had  been  saved  as  by  a 
miracle  from  a shipwreck,  because  his  work  was  not 
done,  and  he  could  not  die  by  disease,  storm  or  wave. 
He  had  a few  more  suffering  months  to  fill  in  of  duty 
and  trial  before  he  could  find  his  grave  in  India  in 
sight  of  the  palace  of  the  arch-fiend  who  was  massa- 
cring his  people.  Those  bronzed-faced  Britains, 
blackened  by  powder  and  lime-dust  from  the  high- 
way were  coming  too  late  to  save,  but  not  too 
late  to  teach  “ vengeance  is  mine  and  I will  repay, 
saith  the  Lord.”  If  they  ha(>known  of  the  outrage 


370 


and  butcheries  of  helpless  women  going  on  they  would 
have  mounted  chariots  of  flames  driven  by  the  wings 
of  the  wind.  So  Xana  either  thought  he  would  de- 
stroy all  evidences  of  his  treachery,  or  would  para- 
lyze the  hearts  of  these  avengers,  or  would  leave  them 
without  any  thing  to  save  when  they  did  come.  He 
ordered  every  man,  woman  and  child  to  be  put  to 
death  by  cutting  their  throats  at  ten  o’clock  on  the 
morning  of  July  15th.  Xot  one  ray  of  pity  lies 
across  this  scene  of  imperial  blackness.  His  officers 
endeavored  to  get  men  to  do  the  butcher’s  work,  but 
whether  from  its  horror,  or  through  dread  of  breaking 
their  caste  in  touching  and  holding  Europeans  while  the 
command  was  being  executed,  or  whether  the  fear  of  what 
did  come  had  already  entered  their  murderous  souls, 
no  one  could  be  found  to  do  the  deed.  At  ten  o’clock 
he  commanded  that  at  the  bugle  sound  the  Sepoys 
should  fire.  The  doors  were  opened  and  the  firing 
went  on  for  several  hours,  but  to  his  amazement  only 
two  had  been  killed.  He  then  ordered  fifty  soldiers 
to  go  into  the  city  and  force  the  butchers  to  come,  as 
these  men  had  no  caste.  They  brought  twenty-five  or 
thirty,  who  refused  to  go  in  and  butcher  the  women 
and  children.  Nana  said  he  would  order  his  cavalry 
to  cut  them  down  unless  they  obeyed  his  orders,  and  ^ 
five  of  them  seized  their  axes  and  hatchets  and  went 
into  the  enclosure.  These  men  belonged  to  a low 
gipsy  class. 

They  entered  at  five  o’clock ; the  door  was  shut  be- 
hind them.  The  screams  and  muffled  groans  told  the 
story  without,  that  the  threats  of  the  Nana  to  cut  the 
butchers  down  by  his  cavalry  if  they  did  not  execute 
his  atrocious  commands  was  having  its  effects.  They 
began  their  bloody  work  at  five  o’clock  and  finished 


371 


at  half-past  ten.  They  were  paid  fifty  cents  apiece, 
or  one  hundred  and  three  dollars  for  the  job,  and 
were  sent  away,  and  the  door  was  locked  for  the  night. 
The  next  morning  the  door  was  opened  and  it  was 
found  that  about  a dozen  women  had  escaped  death 
by  falling  inio  the  corners  of  the  buildiugs  until  cov- 
ered over  by  the  bodies  of  their  dead  sisters.  At  the 
sight  of  the  butchers  again  they  fled  out  of  their 
bloody  hiding  places,  and  with  one  accord  dashed  by 
them  and  leaped  into  a well  in  the  enclosure.  The  well 
was  forever  defiled  by  its  use  by  foreigners  and  by 
the  presence  of  the  bodies  of  the  women.  So  it  was 
devoted  to  its  immortal  mission — a burial  place  for 
martyred  women  who  suffered  in  Christ  and  the  faith 
of  his  resurrection.  Scavengers  were  called  in,  for  no 
caste  of  Hindu  or  Mohammedan  would  touch  them, 
and  these  hacked,  pale,  blood-drenched  corpses  of 
beautiful  and  holy  women  were  dragged  by  feet,  arms, 
or  hair  of  the  head  and  tumbled  indiscriminately  into 
the  vrell  which  their  living  sisters  had  chosen  for 
death  and  burial  rather  than  suffer  dishonor. 

When  these  diabolical  brutalities  were  ended  the 
Nana  went  out  to  meet  Havelock,  who  was  com- 
ing up  the  turnpike  from  Calcutta.  The  roar  of 
avenging  guns,  the  clouds  of  dust  and  the  shouts 
of  those  awful  men  of  war  had  already  terrified  his 
craven  soul.  But  the  fatal,  never  to  be  forgiven 
deed,  was  done.  He  could  not  go  back ; he  had 
no  retreat  save  in  the  world  of  despair;  not  a 
European  captive  lived  to  reproach  him,  but  the 
blood  of  his  victims  cried  from  the  ground.  When 
his  mutinous  troops,  blanched  with  fear  at  the  first 
onset,  saw  Sir  Colin  Campbell’s  Highlanders  in  their 
native  costume  and  heard  them  shout  they  were 


372 


overwhelmed  with  guilty  fears,  and  when  they  beheld 
them  fighting  while  still  ignorant  that  their  kin  and 
countrymen  were  massacred,  they  declared  that  they 
were  not  men,  but  the  spirits  of  the  brave  women 
who  had  been  murdered  come  back  to  avenge 
their  wrongs,  and  who  by  death  could  not  be  con- 
quered. The  conflict  of  that  day  was  terrible,  but 
brief.  The  Nana  was  not  now  managing  beleaguered 
women  and  children  overcome  by  disease,  heat  and 
starvation;  he  was  not  meeting  the  martyrs  dead  in 
the  memorial  house,  but  their  kindred,  their  country- 
men, and  the  avengers  of  blood.  Veterans  were 
rushing  on  him  led  by  a brave  and  skilful  comman- 
der who  was  maintaining  the  cause  of  God  and  his 
country,  and  who  had  in  battle  but  two  alternatives 
— victory  or  death. 

The  army  of  the  mutineers  outnumbered  them 
ten  to  one.  The  Nana  led  them  in  person.  He  could 
do  nothing  less,  though  it  was  not  to  the  liking  of  his 
cowardly  spirit.  He  soon  got  his  discharge.  He 
charged  the  advancing  line  of  red  coats,  who  never  drop 
out  of  the  ranks  but  by  death.  The  glistening  of  a cloud- 
less sunshine  on  their  burnished  steel  dazed  him,  their 
fierce  looks  and  steady,  onward  steps  appalled  him, 
and  the  shots  of  the  Sepoys  became  few  and  random, 
and  then  panic  came,  and  the  Nana  headed  the  broken 
ranks,  fleeing  for  his  life.  He  reached  Cawnpore 
at  nightfall  on  a chestnut  horse  covered  with 
foam  and  bleeding  in  the  flanks.  He  goaded  the 
jaded  beast  to  Bithoor,  and  there,  putting  the  many 
wives  and  servants  of  his  harem  on  his  fleetest 
horses,  took  such  treasures  as  he  could  carry  and  fled 
toward  Lucknow. 


373 


From  a writer  of  the  time  we  glean  the  following : 
“ The  relieving  party  eagerly  approached  the  build- 
ing, expecting  to  find  the  women  and  children.  But 
when  the  gates  were  thrown  back  even  these  stern 
men,  accustomed  to  scenes  of  blood,  were  unmanned. 
The  paved  court  was  strewn  with  remnants  of  women’s 
clothing,  children’s  dresses,  bloody  as  if  hacked  from 
the  pers.on  of  the  living  wearers.  Gory  and  dishevel- 
led tresses  of  women’s  hair  lay  trampled  in  blood. 
Traces  of  savage  violence  were  seen  in  every  room. 
At  length  the  fearful  truth  was  realized — in  that  huge 
well  in  the  rear  was  a last  receptacle  in  which  the  victims 
of  lust  and  murder  were  hidden,  and  here  yet,  reek- 
ing, stripped,  dishonored,  mutilated  and  massacred, 
lay  the  bodies  of  two  hundred  and  eight  women  and 
children.  The  walls  of  the  building  were  marked  by 
bullets  and  sword  strokes  low  down,  as  if  the  crouch- 
ing victim  had  been  cut  to  pieces.  On  the  wall  were 
written  brief  scratches,  ^ Think  of  us,’  ‘ Avenge  us,’ 
‘ My  child,  my  child.’  In  one  apartment,  carefully 
ranged  along  one  side,  was  a row  of  women’s  shoes 
with  the  bleeding  amputated  feet  in  them.  On  the 
opposite  side  the  mocking  fiends  had  ranged  a row  of 
children’s  shoes  filled  in  a similar  way.  Living  and 
dead  had  been  thrown  into  the  well.  Fragments  of 
Bibles  and  religious  books,  the  leaves  of  one,  ‘ Prepar- 
ation for  Death,’  were  strewn  all  over  the  room.  The 
courtyard  was  literally  swimming  in  blood.  A num- 
ber of  the  women  had  been  stripped,  lying  on  their 
backs,  fastened  by  the  arms  and  legs,  and  kept  for  five 
or  six  days  in  the  broiling  sun.  Others  were  hacked 
to  pieces  and  both  women  and  children  had  been  sub- 
jected to  most  frightful  outrages.” 


374 


General  Havelock  and  his  forces  arrived  two  hours 
and  ten  minutes  after  the  appalling  massacre  was  over, 
and  from  the  General  down  the  men  wept  like  chil- 
dren— made  helpless  by  what  they  beheld.  After 
the  first  shock  to  their  feelings  they  were  consumed 
with  the  desire  for  swift  and  awful  punishment. 
They  caught  some  of  the  mutineers,  and  dragging 
them  into  the  Christian  blood  they  had  shed  they  lit- 
erally mopped  up  the  pavements  wdth  the  bodies  of 
these  fiends,  the  worst  punishment  that  could  have 
been  inflicted  upon  them,  thus  hopelessly  break- 
ing tUeir  caste,  degrading  them  in  their  own  eyes 
and  those  of  Hindus  and  Mohammedans  as  noth- 
ing else  conceived  by  human  ingenuity  could  do, 
except  one  other  device  of  men  made  infernally 
ingenious  by  outrage.  This  was  the  mode  of  death 
prepared  for  the  leaders  as  far  as  caught  and  in- 
flicted upon  them.  In  the  wonderful  painting  of 
Vallili  Verestchagin,  the  Russian  artist,  are  both  a 
picture  and  a description  of  the  way  it  was  done,  and 
we  are  satisfied  that  it  is  entirely  correct.  About 
a dozen  guns  are  represented  in  line.  Across  the 
muzzle  of  each  is  fixed  a piece  of  wood  as  long 
as  a man’s  outstretched  arms.  This  is  bound  by 
cords  to  the  muzzle  and  the  victim  is  placed  be- 
fore the  piece  of  wood  and  bound  to  it,  and  when 
standing  it  crosses  his  back  at  his  arms,  docking, 
when  lashed  to  it,  as  if  he  had  been  bound  to  a cross ; 
and  a fearful  fiery  cross  was  it  indeed  to  these  transgres- 
sors. In  this  row  the  Hindu  and  Mohammedans  can 
be  distinguished  by  their  features  and  dress.  The 
ball  would  strike  the  wood  first,  and  then  the  body, 
and  the  result  is  practical  annihilation.  This  mode 
of  execution,  terrible  as  it  seems,  is  compara- 


' 375 


tively  humane  to  all  but  natives,  who  are  appalled  at 
its  effects.  The  artist  declares  that  Sepoys  were 
blown  in  this  way  from  guns  by  the  thousand,  and 
that  as  a mode  of  punishment  it  has  been  used  in  In- 
dia for  many  years  before  the  mutiny  and  will  be 
again. 

“ The  Hindu  does  not  fear  any  other  kind  of  capi- 
tal punishment  received  at  the  hands  of  the  ‘ heathen- 
ish, unclean  Europeans.’  They  hold  that  any  one 
shot  down  or  hung  by  the  European  goes  to  swell  the 
ranks  of  the  martyrs  who  are  entitled  to  a high  re- 
ward in  the  future  life.  But  an  execution  by  means 
of  a gun  carries  positive  terror  into  the  heart  of  a 
native,  since  such  a shot  tears  the  criminal’s  body  in 
many  parts  and  thus  prevents  him  from  presenting 
himself  in  decent  form  in  heaven.  In  order  to  hold 
a population  of  250,000,000  in  political  and  economi- 
cal submission  by  means  of  60,000  bayonets,  it  is  not 
enough  to  be  brave  and  to  be  possessed  of,  political 
tact — punishment  and  bloody  reprisals  cannot  be 
avoided.” 

Between  the  place  of  massacre  at  the  Suttee  Ghat 
on  the  Ganges  and  the  railroad  station  of  the  East 
Indian  Company  is  an  enclosure  of  mingled  beauty 
and  sadness.  Hard,  indeed,  would  be  the  heart  which 
would  not  have  a sense  of  depression,  drear  the  eye 
that  had  no  tears  to  shed  as  one  passes  its  portal,  over 
which  ever  lie  the  shadows  of  dismal  death.  One  walks 
here  as  in  no  other  city  of  the  dead  in  the  world. 
Most  of  those  doomed  to  death  have  gone  quietly,  and 
gently  as  love  could  smooth  the  way  to  their  final 
resting-place,  and  most  have  had  time  to  be  so  edu- 
cated by  sufferings  as  to  be  reconciled  to  their  end. 
But  here  not  a single  ray  of  mitigation  appears.  All 


376 


nature  is  at  work  to  dispel  the  gloom — the  brightest 
sunshine  from  a cloudless  sky:  no  flitting  shadows 
cross  this  spot.  Flowers  press  their  beauties  on  the 
senses;  delicious  odors  meet  and  greet  the  pilgrim. 
Never  w’as  spot  so  songful ; never  so  many  birds  of 
beauty  gathered  together.  The  grass  has  closed 
over  the  gaps  in  earth’s  maternal  breast,  hiding 
the  wrecks  of  life  under  its  grateful  coverings.  This, 
“ God’s  acre,”  is  of  indescribable  loveliness,  all  the 
shadows  and  horrors  must  come  by  the  imagination 
only.  Here  was  the  tragic  scene  enacted  that  stands 
monumental  in  the  criminal  records  of  human  history. 

In  the  centre  opposite  the  gateway,  and  the  most 
conspicuous  object,  is  a mound  about  fifteen  feet  high, 
approached  by  a flight  of  steps,  over  the  arch  of  which  is 
inscribed,  “ These  are  they  which  came  up  out  of  great 
tribulation.”  This  is  the  well  into  which  the  victims 
""  of  this  horrid  massacre  were  cast,  and  it  is  incredible 
that  it  held  so  many,  and  can  only  be  explained  in 
the  rapidity  with  which  dissolution  went  on  in  the  in- 
tense heat.  There  is  a beautiful  statue  of  marble  on 
the  top  of  the  mound  over  the  well,  designed  by 
Baron  Marachette  and  erected  by  the  government  of 
India,  inscribed,  Sacred  to  the  perpetual  memory  of 
a great  company  of  Christian  people,  chiefly  women 
and  children,  who  near  this  spot  were  cruelly  massacred 
by  the  followers  of  the  rebel  named  Dundhoo  Punth, 
but  commonly  called  Nana  Sahib,  of  Bithoor,  who 
cast  the  dying  with  the  dead  into  the  well  below.” 
There  is  a most  pathetic  inscription,  one  of  the  won- 
ders that  ingenious  grief-smitten  love  brings  forth  in 
its  distresses  out  of  the  wells  of  consolation  in  God’s 
Word,  never  seen  by  dry  eyes,  “ Sacred  to  the 
memory  of  the  women  and  children  of  the  late 


377 


ill-fated  company  Sixth  Battalion  Bengal  Artillery, 
who  were  slaughtered  near  this  spot  by  the  mutineers. 
This  monument  is  erected  by  a non-commissioned  offi- 
cer, who  formerly  belonged  to  the  First  Company, 
Sixth  Batallion.  ‘Spare  thy  people,  O Lord,  and 
give  not  thine  heritage  to  reproach,  that  the  heathen 
should  rule  over  them.  Wherefore  should  they  say 
among  the  people.  Where  is  their  God?  Fear  not, 
O land,  be  glad  and  rejoice ; for  the  Lord  will  do 
great  things/  A.  D.  15th  day  of  August,  1857.” 
Within  this  enclosure  are  seventy-two  hillocks 
covered  with  the  greenest  grass  and  flowers,  contain- 
ing the  bodies,  or  fragments  of  them,  of  hapless 
women  and  children.  The  two  buildings  in  which  the 
unspeakable  atrocities  of  outrage  and  mjirder  were 
committed,  atrocities  that  even  yet  make  men  grow 
pale,  were  torn  down,  and  as  they  were  being  removed 
men  read  with  horror  the  messages  those  women 
in  their  humiliation  had  written,  on  the  walls 
in  blood,  or  scratched  vr.th  sticks  and  charcoal,  hoping 
that  their  friends  might  read  them,  and,  perhaps, 
avenge  them.  The  dust-covered  faces  of  brave  men 
who  had  fought  their  way  through  blood,  heat  and 
smoke  of  the  battle  were  streaked  by  their  tears 
as  they  read  these  farewells  of  their  sisters  and  were 
moved  by  martyrdoms  that  stand  alone  and  unapproach- 
able in  all  the  infernal  infaniies  upon  which  the  light 
of  heaven  ever  looked,  or  the  darkness  of  night  ever 
shrouded.  Vengeance  was  swift  and  awful,  and  paid 
out  with  an  almost  diabolical  ingenuity. 

A village  has  been  referred  to  through  which  the 
captives  were  led  to  their  massacre  on  the  Ganges, 
where  the  women  were  insulted  and  jeered  at  by  the 
people  and  priesthood  at  a shrine  by  which  they 


V 


378 

passed.  The  guide  who  conveyed  us  to  these  tragic 
spots  was  one  of  the  relieving  party,  who  helped  bury 
the  dead.  He  described  the  utter  destruction  of  this 
village,  men  and  women  driven  back  into  the  flames 
of  their  homes  by  the  infuriated  British  soldiers. 
British  ofl&cers  are  properly  silent  now  over  the  sick- 
ening details  of  the  vengeance  taken,  but  those  who 
remember  reading  of  it  in  the  newspapers  of  the  day 
kave  distinct  recollections  of  its  horrible  character. 
The  natives  know  it,  some  saw  it,  others  heard  it  from 
their  friends,  and  they  will  not  soon  forget  the  dread- 
ful men  who  came  clad  in  Are  and  smoke  demanding 
punishment  for  the  lives  of  their  countrymen  in  the 
blood  and  treasure  of  their  destroyers.  This  veteran 
soldier  pointed  out  the  Savada  house  a half  mile  or 
more  below  the  railway  station  on  the  road  from  Cal- 
cutta over  which  the  avenging  army  came.  The 
Savada  house  is  wkere  part  of  the  luckless  host  was 
imprisoned,  seventy  men  and  officers  being  captured  in 
their  flight  from  the  massacre  at  Suttee  Ghat,  on 
the  Ganges,  after  which  they  were  slaughtered  in 
the  general  massacre.  It  is  a deserted  place,  as  if 
the  habitation  of  lost  spirits;  no  one  ever  living 
in  it  since.  In  front  of  this  and  to  the  north  is  a 
vacant  space  of  about  two  hundred  acres  where  Gen- 
eral Windham  was  surprised  on  his  way  as  a relieving 
force  and  lost  every  thing ; his  men  were  scattered, 
helpless  refugees,  hiding  wherever  shelter  could  be 
found  until  the  remnant  was  gathered  together  again 
by  Havelock’s  force  from  Lucknow. 

On  the  border  of  Wheeler’s  encampment,  where  these 
horrible  tragedies  began,  is  a red  brick  memorial  church, 
poorly  suited  to  the  place  or  object,  but  worthy  of  re- 
spect as  a remembrance  of  what  India  has  cost  Europe 


379 


and  America.  If  she  shall  yet  be  redeemed  from  her 
idolatry  and  vindictive  hate  in  the  song  ef  final 
triumph  will  be  ingrafted  the  apocalyptic  description 
of  the  men  and  women  whose  memorial  tablets  are 
about  its  walls,  ‘‘  These  are  they  which  came  up  out  of 
great  tribulation.’’  This  church  is  of  little  value  for 
any  other  purpose  than  a monument.  The  style  is 
Homanesque.  Of  course,  what  Anglican  could  think  of 
any  thing  else  better  suited  for  India  than  the  gloomy 
religious  dungeons  of  Europe  ? It  is  without  proper 
ventilation  and  stifling  to  the  worshippers  in  this 
exhausting  climate.  The  walls  are  covered  with 
tablets,  on  which  are  inscribed  the  names  of  the  mar- 
tyrs ; so  “ All  Souls”  church  has  become  the  mute  his- 
torian of  these  direful  times.  On  one  of  these  tablets 
is  inscribed,  “ To  the  glory  of  God  and  in  memory  of 
nearly  one  thousand  Christian  people,”  and  of  these 
are  the  names  of  three,  at  least,  of  our  own  country- 
men of  th«  State  of  Pennsylvania,  and  the  city  of 
Philadelphia,  Johnson,  McMullen,  Freeman  and 
Campbell.  There  are  many  beautiful  offerings  of 
love  throughout  the  church,  none  more  touching  than 
one  of  the  plainest  to  one  who  performed  the  sublimest 
service,  a baptismal  font,  the  gift  of  the  Queen,  in- 
scribed, “ In  memory  of  John  Robert  Macke!  lop,  who 
nobly  lost  his  life  while  drawing  water  from  the  well 
for  the  distressed  women  and  children  June,  1857.” 
The  city  of  Cawnpore  is  not  of  much  interest  ex- 
cept as  the  place  of  consummation  of  horrors.  It  is 
like  most  interior  Hindu  cities,  full  of  human  and  in- 
human beings,  a race  crushed  through  nearly  all  its  ex- 
istence, so  that  now  this  is  the  only  existence  for  which 
it  is  fit.  It  will  require  as  many  ages  to  bring  it  back 
into  Christian  civilization  as  it  has  spent  in  departing 


380 


from  the  best  civilization  of  the  past.  The  city  has  a 
population  of  116,000.  The  Ganges  is  navigable  from 
this  point  south  to  the  sea  one  thousand  miles  and 
northward  three  hundred  miles,  chiefly  by  steam  tugs 
and  flat-bottomed  boats,  either  propelled  by  sails  or 
oars.  The  Ganges  Canal  here  discharges  itself  into 
the  river,  from  which  it  is  taken  four  hundred  miles 
higher  up  at  Hard  war.  This  water  way  extends  over 
eight  hundred  miles.  Cawnpore  has  not  much  record 
in  English  history;  its  first  appearance  being  in  1777^ 
when  chosen  as  the  seat  of  the  advanced  British  garri- 
son. It  formed  the  base  of  Lake’s  brilliant  campaign 
in  1803,  by  which  the  British  became  masters  of  the 
Oudh  province. 

There  had  been  some  mission  work  done,  but  no 
stronghold  was  gained  before  the  mutiny.  Since  that 
time,  however,  the  Northern  American  Methodists  have 
occupied  it,  while  the  soil  was  yet  wet  with  martyr  blood,, 
and  have  made  good  progress;  especially  with  Eu- 
ropeans and  Eurasians,  who  had  been  much  neglected. 
The  Conference  sustains  an  English-speaking  minis- 
ter, with  such  support  as  the  worshippers  give,  and 
the  congregation  is  strong  and  progressive.  The  Rev. 
Allan  Maxwell  is  the  efficient  pastor,  a man  of  execu- 
tive ability,  by  which  he  furthers  the  practical  interests 
of  the  mission  people.  He  devised  a way  of  reaching 
the  children  through  the  Sabbath-school.  He  sought 
the  native  Brahmin  school  teachers,  and  agreed  to  pay 
them  for  bringing  their  scholars  during  the  session  of 
the  Sabbath-school  once  a week,  and  the  plan  has 
wrought  wonders. 

Thus  in  Cawnpore  and  environs  the  mission  has  six- 
teen hundred  Sabbath-school  scholars.  To  please  and 
attract  them  an  anniversary  is  given  every  year; 


381 


elephants  are  secured,  on  which  are  placed  the  schol- 
ars who  have  excelled  in  attendance,  behavior  and 
study  of  the  Scriptures — the  distinguished  one  lead- 
ing the  procession.  A band  plays;  there  are  ban- 
ners inscribed  with  texts  of  Scriptures  borne  along, 
and  thousands  following  enjoying  the  scene  with  the 
children.  Refreshments  are  served,  speeches  made, 
singing  by  the  scholars,  recitations  of  Scriptures  by 
boys  and  girls,  and  the  strangest  of  all  is  that  both 
Mohammedan  and  Brahmin  fathers  will  come  and  sit 
and  chuckle  with  delight  over  the  recitations  of  the 
Scriptures  made  by  their  daughters  with  uncovered 
faces,  whose  mothers  are  at  home,  perhaps,  never  per- 
mitted to  cross  the  threshold  of  their  house  enclosure. 
It  will  take  more  than  the  power  of  a harem  to  keep 
these  girls,  having  once  tasted  the  sweets  of  Christian 
freedom,  within  mud  walls. 

In  Cawnpore  they  have  every  form  of  mission  work, 
girls’  schools,  zenana  work.  Mrs.  Maxwell,  the  wife 
of  the  pastor,  has  wrought  to  great  advantage  by 
going  to  the  Ghat,  or  place  of  sacred  bathing,  fre- 
quented by  high-caste  Indian  women,  soon  after  day- 
light, and  distributing  the  Scriptures  and  Christian 
tracts  and  books  in  their  own  language  to  as  many  as 
would  receive  them.  'At  first  they  were  shy  and  dis- 
posed to  give  her  space  for  her  trouble,  but  their  con- 
fidence was  soon  gained,  and  they  became  so  eager 
that  they  crowded  her  until  it  became  unendurable, 
and  she  could  not  furnish  Scriptures  and  leaflets  as 
fast  as  they  wished.  There  is  a school  for  girls  well 
attended  and  self-supporting. 

It  is  said  reproachfully  that  missionaries  are  not 
good  financiers,  which  is  not  true,  and  especially  is  it 
false  in  connection  with  the  IMethodist  mission  work 


382 


in  India,  for  they  have  property  here,  obtained  by 
gift  and  advantageous  purchases,  which,  if  the  country 
prospers,  will  make  them  independent  of  all  aid  in 
twenty  years.  In  Cawupore  and  Lucknow  they  have 
magnificent  situations,  the  best  in  many  respects  in 
these  cities,  and  plenty  of  room  for  school,  publishing 
and  church  purposes,  and  a handsome  income,  if  they 
manage  as  well  in  the  future  as  in  the  past,  for  all  exi-^ 
gencies. 


FUTTEHGUBH  3IISSION  AND  31  ASS  ACRE, 

HIS  city  also  has  a history  written  in  sacrifice  and 


will  live  in  the  memories  thereof  in  the  future. 


It  fringes  the  Ganges  on  the  west  side  and  is  seven  hun- 
dred miles  north-west  of  Calcutta,  the  capital'  of  the 
district  known  as  the  Zillah  of  Furrukabad.  ' The 
city  has  considerable  wealth  and  business  activity, 
but  the  buildings  are  mostly  of  mud  and  covered  with 
thatch,  as  inflammable  as  a straw-stack.  The  houses 
of  European  style  are  comparatively  few  and  of 
the  usual  kind — brick,  plastered  and  painted  in 
distemper  colors.  There  is  nothing  to  interest  a for- 
eigner except  the  efl^orts  made,  and  still  making,  to 
save  the  people.  The  leading  work  is  in  the  hands 
of  the  Presbyterian  Board  of  Foreign  Missions  of  the 
United  States.  Until  the  mutiny  and  massacre  every 
thing  was  encouraging,  but  the  work  has  never  been 
so  unfettered  and  so  hopeful  since.  The  shadows  of 
death  still  lie  upon  it,  though  it  has  been  for  thirty 
years  slowly  reviving.  It  began  as  the  outcome  of 
one  of  the  most  terrible  famines  India  ever  suffered. 


CHAPTER  XXXV. 


383 


The  place  had  so  many  advantages  long  before  the 
famine  that  Drs.  Lowrie  and  Wilson  urged  its  occu- 
pation upon  the  Board  as  a promising  field  of  labor  j 
but  Providence  settled  it  years  after  through  the 
distresses  of  the  dying  people.  Little  children  wan- 
dered about  homeless  and  foodless,  as  poor  as  the 
“ pie”  dogs. 

The  heart  of  Rev.  Gopee  Nauth  Nundy  was  moved 
with  compassion  for  the  distressed  of  his  people,  and 
he  visited  villages  and  highways  to  relieve  the  dying 
and  gather,  the  fatherless  and  motherless  children,  or 
those  abandoned  to  death.  In  his  journeys  mothers 
came  to  him  and  offered  their  children  to  him  in  tears^ 
for  a handful  of  flour,  and  when  he  received  them 
would  lie  down  in  death  without  a murmur  or  strug- 
gle. The  government  and  everybody  else  did  all  that 
was  possible  for  the  sufferers,  except  the  wealthy 
heathen,  who  extorted  the  last  anna  and  then  let 
them  die  on  their  threshold.  These  are  the  fruits  of 
Brahminism,  of  Buddhism  and  Mohammedanism. 
Native  flour  dealers  mixed  lime  in  the  flour  sold  to 
the  starving,  which  produced  diarrhoea.  Dr.  Mad- 
den, in  the  employ  of  the  East  India  Company,  had 
gathered  a numbe*’  of  these  starving  children  and  en- 
gaged Gopee  Nauth  Nundy  and  his  wife  to  take  charge 
of  the  work  of  caring  for  them,  but  owing  to  the  death 
of  Dr.  Madden’s  wife  he  gave  up  the  institution.  It  had 
been  determined  to  send  the  orphans  to  Benares  when 
word  came  that  a man  was  coming  from  the  Presbyte- 
rian Board  from  New  York  to  begin  a school  in  which 
these  could  be  placed.  That  man,  comparatively 
unknown  then,  became  one  of  the  best  known,  trusted 
and  loved  of  all  the  American  ministry,  a man  of 
ability,  integrity  and  of  undying  devotion  to  the 


334 


many  trusts  imposed  upon  him  by  the  Church.  That 
man  was  the  late  Dr.  Henry  R.  Wilson,  who  was  so 
long  engaged  in  duties  in  his  own  country  that  his 
missionary  record  dropped  out  of  sight.  He  was 
urged  by  the  good,  and  afterward  martyred.  General 
Wheeler,  then  stationed  at  F uttehgurh,  who  had  col- 
lected some  of  the' orphans  himseif,  to  take  charge  of 
these  also.  Both  of  these  officers  contributed  liberally 
to  the  support  of  the  orphanage  founded  under  the 
able  management  of  the  Rev.  H.  R.  Wilson. 

The  institution  prospered,  because,  as  his  life  after- 
ward showed,  he  had  fitness  and  capacity  for  any  trust. 
He  had  enough  to  tax  his  piety,  patience  and  abilities, 
for  the  children  were  addicted  to  every  abominable 
heathen  practice.  This  work  had  the  blessing  of 
God  and  the  gratitude  of  the  humane  until,  on  ac- 
count of  the  failing  health  of  his  wife,  he  had  to  give 
it  up.  But  others  carried  it  on  according  to  his  plans 
and  spirit  until  it  perished  in  the  mutiny. 

There  is  a fact  here  worth  knowing  to  young  men 
entering  the  ministry,  that  any  duty  to  which  God 
calls  them,  however  unpromising  it  may  seem  of  future 
promotion,  may  be  the  step  to  the  highest  success  in 
life.  When  Dr.  Wilson  became  Secretary  of  the 
Board  of  Church  Erection,  in  New  York  city,  the 
Board  was  straitened  for  funds,  and  Dr.  Wilson  called 
on  Messrs.  Robert  and  Alexander  Stuart  for  help. 
He  had  no  hope  of  more  than  five  hundred  dollars, 
if  any  thing,  for  he  thought  he  was  a stranger  to  them. 
Mr.  Alexander  Stuart  said,  “Are  you  the  man  who 
carried  on  a school  in  Futtehgurh,  and  made  it  pay  its 
own  way?”  “Yes,”  said  the  Doctor.  No  more  was 
said  ; that  was  introduction  enough  to  the  far-sighted 
business  men.  A check  was  handed  him,  and  when 


385 


he  looked  at  it  he  was  overwhelmed ; it  was  for  twenty- 
five  thousand  dollars.  Reputation  is  made  in  any 
work  God  gives  his  children  to  do. 

In  about  a year  Rev.  Henry  R.  Wilson  was  joined 
by  Rev.  J.  L.  Scott,  and  the  school  was  uiider  their 
joint  care  until  the  return  of  Dr.  'W^ilson,  on  ac- 
count of  his  wife’s  health,  when  the  Rev.  J.  L. 
Scott  was  transfered  to  Agra,  and  the  orphanage 
came  under  the  care  of  the  Rev.  J.  J.  Walsh, 
who  soon  after  was  succeeded  by  Rev.  J.  E.  Free- 
man, whose  service  ended  in  martyrdom  in  a little 
over  six  months.  To  this  asylum  was  added  a Chris- 
tian village  for  those  educated  in  the  school  who 
had  married  and  were  heads  of  families.  This  will 
become  in  future  a successful  method  in  India,  more 
important  than  in  the  past,  as  the  separation  between 
Christians  and  native  idolaters  is  both  a necessity 
and  a blessing.  The  natives  boycott,  and  the  Chris- 
tians are  thus  freed  from  dangerous  contaminations. 
This  will  bring  us  abreast  with  the  subject,  for  the 
fuller  understanding  of  which  these  facts  have  been 
given,  the  martyr  history  of  the  church  in  Futtehgurh, 
when  death  reaped  the  fields  bare  which  seemed  white 
for  the  harvest,  so  that  the  ground  had,  in  most  places, 
to  be  rebroken  and  reseeded.  The  mutiny  was  the  last 
breaking  out  of  Mohammehan  fury,  which,  as  usual, 
furnished  the  fire  that  set  India  ablaze.  Islamism  is 
rather  a military  organization,  fierce,  cruel  and  blood- 
thirsty, than  a religion.  It  has  no  charity  in  it,  though 
individual  followers,  despite  its  teachings  and  practices, 
have  been  charitable.  It  has  but  one  vital  dogma, 
“death  to  the  infidel.”  Its  annals  are  awful  har- 
vestings when  the  outraged  make  inquest  for  the 
blood  it  has  shed.  Its  spirit  is  that  of  the  tiger,  and  to 


386 


the  tiger’s  end  it  will  comp.  It  allied  itself  with  the 
Brahmins,  the  nearest  akin  to,  but  by  no  means  its 
peers  in  cruelties. 

The  first  blow  of  the  mutiny  which  fell  on  the  mis- 
sion was  in  June.  The  troops  at  Shahjehanpore, 
only  forty  miles  from  Futtehgurh,  rebelled,  assisted 
by  a body  of  Oudh  mutineers,  and  on  the  Sabbath, 
while  at  worship,  massacred  the  minister.  Rev.  J. 
McCallum,  and  all  his  people  except  one,  who  only 
was  spared  to  tell  the  story  of  the  suflierings  and  death 
of  his  companions.  A consultation  was  held  among 
the  missionaries  as  to  their  future,  and  to  devise,  if 
possible,  some  escape  from  their  perils.  They  started 
in  boats  for  Cawnpore.  Others  of  the  Europeans  re- 
mained and  fled  to  a mud  fort  for  protection,  and 
there  sustained  a siege  against  well  armed  thousands, 
the  fort  being  exposed  to  fire  from  every  side.  It 
was  twice  undermined  by  the  rebels;  ammunition 
gave  out ; many  were  killed  and  many  died  from  ex- 
posure. At  last  the  remainder  stole  away  in  boats 
under  cover  of  the  night. 

The  history  of  their  journey  to  torture  and  death 
makes  the  heart  sick  and  the  very  breath  labored. 
They  were  fired  upon,  men,  women  and  children,  until 
their  trail  could  be  followed  in  blood  in  the  water 
over  which  they  fled.  They  numbered  when  they 
embarked  one  hundred  and  ten,  but  only  two  escaped. 
Of  the  two  parties  the  whole  loss  was  two  hundred 
and  thirty-four.  In  this  number  the  American  Pres- 
byterian Church  has  its  martyr  trophies  under  the 
throne.  Beautiful  in  person  and  character,  four  finer 
looking  portraits  of  men  and  women  cannot  be  found 
in  all  the  galleries  of  the  choicest  specimens  of  physical 
beauty.  But  what  is  not  usual,  their  character  was 


3g7 


more  glorious  than  the  temples  of  its  manifestation. 
This  testimony  comes  not  alone  from  their  own  coun- 
trymen. The  Rev.  Messrs.  Fullerton,  Marsh  and 
others  of  the  missionaries  were  fine  types  of  Christian 
manhood.  This  opinion  every  English  and  Scotch 
missionary,  military  man  or  civilian  who  knew  them 
confirms. 

The  names  of  Freeman,  Campbell,  Johnson  and 
McMullen  have  been  inscribed  in  the  roll  with 
the  British  martyrs  on  the  walls  of  the  memorial 
church  at  Cawnpore.  But  there  is  in  a sense  a more 
illustrious  roll,  which  has  not  figured  as  yet  in  history. 
More  glorious,  because  with  less  opportunities  for  pre- 
paration for  the  fiery  ordeal.  Martyrdom  might 
have  been  anticipated  by  our  own  countrymen  when 
they  entered  the  ranks  of  Christ’s  followers;  for 
they  were  born  into  this  destiny  with  whatever 
strength  ancestral  piety  through  heredity  gives.  Their 
whole  lives  were  preparatory  to  it.  But  what  was  the 
history  of  the  poor  natives  who  had  come  but  a few 
years  or  months  out  of  the  darkness  of  idolatry?  The 
value  of  foreign  missions  is  tested  by  it.  The  vindica- 
tion of  the  work  is  in  the  quality  of  its  products.  How 
did  the  native  converts  stand  their  fierv  trials?  A 
few  from  the  many  tried  will  sample  the  lot. 

The  church  at  Futtehgurh  was  organized  with  ten 
members,  four  of  whom  were  natives,  and  all  were  made 
to  pass  through  the  fires.  Rev.  Gopee  Nauth  Nundy 
and  his  wife  were  forced  to  fly  to  save  their  lives,  and 
wandered  as  in  a desert,  not  knowing  whither  they 
went.  Their  feet  were  bruised  and  blistered  with  the 
heat  and  hardness  of  the  roads,  their  lips  and  tongues 
parched  and  swollen  for  the  want  of  lood.  They  led 
their  three  little  children,  crying  from  hunger  and 


388 


weaiiness,  until  they  could  walk  no  more,  and  the 
parents  were  too  weak  to  carry  them.  They  were 
stripped  and  robbed  of  their  scanty  clothing,  their 
Bible,  the  last  source  of  consolation,  was  also  taken. 
They  were  beaten,  imprisoned,  intimidated.  Life  was 
offered  on  condition  that  they  should  give  up  their 
faith  and  accept  Mohammedanism,  but  the  offer  was 
refused  and  s railings  accepted. 

Another  of  the  four  was  imprisoned  at  Mynpoorie,  and 
through  torments  the  severest  remained  faithful  to  the 
very  vestibule  of  death.  The  fourth  describes  his  own 
sufferings  and  those  of  his  company  in  tribulation 
thus:  “We  passed  the  day  under  trees,  and  at  night 
slept  in  the  houses  of  some  Hindus,  who  pitied  us.  On 
the  morning  of  the  19th  of  June  our  hearts  were 
ready  to  burst  with  grief  as  we  saw  the  smoke  of  the 
mission  premises.  It  seemed  as  if  the  Lord  had  visited 
us  in  his  hot  displeasure  and  remembered  not  his  foot- 
stool in  the  day  of  his  anger.  All  we  had  in  the  world 
was  gone,,  and  the  whole  country  against  us.  We 
went  about  afflicted  and  tormented  under  the  shades 
of  night,  trying  to  stifle  the  cries  of  our  hungry  little 
ones  on  our  backs,  telling  them  to  be  quiet  or  we 
would  all  be  killed.”  Said  one,  “The  babes  at  the 
dry  breast  came  to  understand  it  and  would  only  sigh 
of  their  grief.” 

These  are  not  the  only  ones  on  the  lists  of  native 
Christian  sufferers.  The  Rev.  Mr.  Fullerton,  since 
gone  to  his  rest,  whose  wife  resides  in  Philadelphia,  and 
one  of  whose  daughters  is  in  his  stead  in  the  church 
of  her  honored  father,  writes  of  the  woes  of  these  poor 
people.  He  visited  Futtehgurh  after  the  mutiny  in 
search  of  wounded  and  scattered  members  of  the  flock. 

“ As  soon  as  it  was  known  that  I had  arrived,  men. 


389 


women  and  children  gathered  about  me;  our  meeting 
was  in  silence ; we  could  not  trust  ourselves  to  speak. 
They  had  been  scattered  like  thfe  leaves  of  a forest ; for 
seven  or  eight  months  they  were  driven  by  it  where  it 
listed.  I saw  its  effects  in  their  miserable  clothing 
and  emaciated  appearance.  I could  foi  ecast  theiT* 
feelings ; they  doubtless  were  thinking  of  their 
murdered  teachers  and  brethren,  whose  faces  they 
would  never  see  again.  When  I could  control  my 
feelings  I asked  for  a Bible  and  hymn-book.  We  then 
sung  the  twenty-third  Psalm  and  read  the  one  hundred 
and  third,  and  kneeling  on  the  bare  ground  of  the 
court  yard,  lifted  our  hearts  in  prayer  to  God, 
thanking  him  for  his  mercies  during  the  terrible 
months  that  intervened  since  these  calamities  had 
overtaken  us,  and  for  permitting  so  many  of  us  to 
meet  again  on  the  ruins  of  our  once  happy  homes.” 
Then  began  the  recountal  of  sorrows.  Many  little  na- 
tive children  had  died  on  the  way  to  Cawnpore.  The  wife 
of  a native  catechist,  having  the  Christian  name  of 
John  F.  Houston,  became  separated  from  the  rest 
of  the  company.  When  found  she  and  her  unweaned 
child  lay  side  by  side  by  a poor  hovel  at  the  edge  of 
a village,  dead.  Nobody  would  bury  them,  and 
when  the  sweepers  came  they  were  rolled  over  into 
the  river.  Next  followed  the  story  of  the  blind  and 
orphan  members  of  this  martyr  church.  As  blind  Lulu 
and  the  leper  Khurga  told  their  sufferings  in  falter- 
ing tones,  they  would  have  dissolved  a heart  of  stone. 
Here  were  seven  sightless  ones,  rolling  their  tearful  orbs 
or  weeping  through  empty  sockets.  Neither  Hindus 
nor  Mohammedans  cared  for  these  afflicted  ones.  They 
were  sometimes  days  and  nights  without  shelter,  or 
had  only  the  mercies  of  a miserable  shed.  “ Their  pov- 


’ 390 


erty,”  said  Mr.  FullertoD,  “ surpassed  any  thing  I ever 
saw.  Hearing  my  voice  they  were  overwhelmed. 
They  thought  these  friends  and  teachers  had  all  been 
killed.” 

“ Poor  Lulu  was  lying  on  the  ground  in  a burning 
fever,  and  with  nothing  but  a few  rags  to  cover  him. 
I asked  him  if  he  had  found  Christ  precious  during 
his  long  months  of  suffering,  ‘O,  yes,’  said  he,  ‘in 
(durk,')  pain,  and  in  (sukh,)  joy,  he  is  ever  the  same.’ 
When  on  my  way  home  I met  poor  blind  Susan,  whom 
I had  heard  was  in  search  of  me.  A little  boy  was 
leading  her.  I asked  her  who  she  was.  She  replied : 
‘A  poor,  blind  girl  I am,  looking  for  mj padre  (min- 
ister), but  cannot  find  him.’  When  I told  her  who 
I was,  her  lips  trembled  with  emotion.  ‘ O,  sir,’  said 
she,  ‘it  is  very  kind  in  you  to  come  so  far  to  look  after 
poor  blind  people  like  us.’  ” ^ 

Another  instance  will  suffice  to  complete  the  purpose 
of  this  narrative,  which  is  to  show  that  the  grace  of  God 
begets  martyrs  worthy  of  the  name  in  every  nation, 
kindred  and  tongue.  Donkal  Pershad  was  a convert 
and  teacher  in  the  high  school  at  Furrukabad,  and 
from  his  conversion  was  a model  Christian;  meek, 
patient,  ever  inquiring  for  the  way  of  duty,  ever 
walking  in  it,  docile,  obedient  and  loving,  yet  with 
the  strength  of  a Boanerges  in  purpose.  He  feared 
none  but  God,  and  yet  deferred  to  all  in  well-doing. 
He  was  a constant  student  of  the  Word  of  God, 
and  as  constant  in  searching  for  the  enlightening 
power  of  the  Holy  Ghost.  His  influence  was  in  a 
wide  circle ; it  was  ever  a halo  about  his  life : 
death  only  removed  his  person,  the  halo  remained. 
He,  with  his  wife  and  children,  was  arrested  and 
thrown  into  a horrible  prison,  and  after  violence  and 


391 


outrage,  seductions  were  offered  him  in  all  forms  of 
temptation  with  life  and  preferment  as  a reward  if 
he  would  deny  his  faith.  But  none  of  these  could 
move  either  husband  or  wife.  His  answer  was, 
“What  is  my  life  that  I should  deny  my  Saviour’ 
I have  never  done  so  since  the  day  I first  believed 
on  him,  and  by  the  grace  of  God,  come  what 
may,  I never  will.”  Then  this  father  and  mother 
and  little  children  were  placed  in  position  to  be 
blown  to  atoms  by  the  Sepoy  cannon.  But  when 
the  order  was  given  to  fire  the  powder  only  flashed. 
Then  the  Nawab’s  soldiers  cut  them  to  pieces  with 
their  swords;  and  so  of  the  native  church  of  India  as 
well  as  from  our  own  country,  and  Great  Britain,  these 
words  are  alike,  the  precious  heritage  of  the  Church ! 

These  are  they  who  have  come  up  out  of  great  tribu- 
lation and  have  washed  their  robes  and  have  made 
them  white  in  the  blood  of  the  Lamb.”  Out  of  this 
torn  web  of  life  a new  history  began  in  which  the 
threads  of  many  noble  lives  since  have  been  woven. 
Alongside  of  the  sainted  Fullerton  was  his  peer.  Rev. 
Mr.  Scott,  who  removed  to  the  ruins,  and  who  began  the 
work  of  restoration  out  of  the  wrecks  of  the  former 
homes.  Rev.  and  Mrs.  Owen,  father  and  mother  of 
the  once  beloved  pastor  of  the  Port  Richmond 
Presbyterian  church,  in  Philadelphia,  joined  in  the 
work  at  Allahabad.  Rev.  Mr.  Munnis  joined  the 
band  of  the  restoration.  The  brother  of  the  martyr 
Johnson  came  also  into  this  field.  While  a student, 
with  no  very  clear  ideas  of  what  should  be  his  work 
or  where,  hearing  of  the  martyrdom  of  his  brother, 
he  determined  to  stand  in  the  gap,  which  he  did 
faithfully  and  successfully  for  twenty  years,  until 
it  was  necessary,  for  the  education  of  his  children. 


392 


that  he  should  return  to  the  home  of  his  childhood. 
He  is  now  President  of  Biddle  University,  Cliarlotte, 
N.  C.  But  our  limits  are  too  narrow  to  follow  the 
illustrious  lives  further  than  to  say  that,  tl)ou2:h  the 
first  workers  have  fallen  and  others  are  scattered,  the 
work  goes  on. 

CHAPTER  XXXVI. 

LUCKNOW,  ITS  SURROUNDINGS  AND  BLOODY 
HISTORIES. 

HIS  city,  whose  name  suggests  reminiscences 


of  magnificence,  heroisms,  sacrifices,  massa- 
cres and  victories,  will  have  more  than  willing 
readers  of  all  that  concerns  it  now  in  the  enjoyments 
of  a conquered  peace.  It  is  in  the  famous  province 
of  Oudh,  about  forty-five  miles  from  Cawnpore.  This 
province  is  a part  of  the  alluvial  valley  of  the  Ganges, 
divided  by  the  river  Gumpti,  on  which  Lucknow  is 
situated.  The  Ganges  and  Gumpti  drain  the  sub- 
Himalayan  ranges  of  Nipal. 

There  is  a long  list  of  rulers  of  the  Oudh ; some  good 
for  the  times  in  which  they  lived ; some  dissolute  and 
abominable;  and  some  imbecile.  At  the  head  of  the 
Nawab  imbeciles  is  the  last  King  Wajia  Ali,  who  be- 
gan to  reign  in  1847.  He  was  an  extravagant  builder 
of  garish  palaces  of  brick  and  plaster.  A worse  speci- 
men could  hardly  be  found  than  the  celebrated  Kaisar 
Bagh,  noted  for  its  architectural  ugliness,  but  celebrated 
by  the  use  made  of  it  by  the  relieving  columns  which 
reached  the  besieged  Residency  in  Lucknow.  The 
ruler  was  so  extravagant  of  the  wealth  of  the  country 
and  so  abominable  in  his  life  that  the  British  felt 
called  upon  to  intercede  in  behalf  of  the  oppressed 


393 


people  and  general  decency  very  mucli  as  a wolf 
would  intercede  for  the  saving  of  the  life  of  an 
endangered  lamb.  Lord  Dalhousie,  who  had  the 
metal  to  go  on  straight  lines  to  the  execution  of  British 
policy  if  he  had  not  the  wisdom  always  to  cover  his 
tracks,  annexed  the  Oudh  without  further  ceremony. 
The  voluptuous  ex-king,  who  could  hardly  trust  him- 
self on  his  legs,  had  one  thousand  wives  (^the  word  “ wives’' 
is  used  for  respectability).  Dalhousie  deprived  him  of 
more  than  one-half  of  them,  and  the  feeble  voluptuary 
was  removed  to  Calcutta  in  1856,  where  he  died  last 
year,  leaving  four  hundred  disconsolate  spouses,  and 
his  b'=‘longings  are  now  offered  for  sale. 

But  his  removal  cost  all  that  followed  the  mutiny 
of  1857  and  1858.  In  June,  1857,  all  authority 
in  the  province  was  lost  to  the  British,  and  the 
Christians,  Europeans  and  Americans  who  survived 
the  first  outbreak  fled  to  the  Residency  at  Luck- 
now for  safety.  This  was  the  mansion  of  the  Gov- 
ernor-General, which  had  some  military  fortifica- 
tions, but  was  by  no  means  secure.  It  is  the  mar- 
vel of  modern  warfare  that  with  such  inadequate 
means  of  defence  they  were  able  to  hold  out  against 
an  army  at  least  ten  thousand  strong,  furnished 
with  the  best  means  of  warfare  of  the  times  and 
drilled  in  British  tactics.  This  heroic  garrison  held 
that  house  and  the  surrounding  buildings  eighty-nine 
days.  The  force  consisted  of  a few  hundred  British 
and  native  soldiers — nine  hundred  and  twenty-seven 
Europeans  and  seven  hundred  and  sixty-five  natives, 
two  hundred  and  thirty  of  whom  deserted — and  offi- 
cers, including  a few  pensioners,  crippled  and  of  ad- 
vanced years.  A monument  to  these  heroes  stands  in 
front  of  the  Bailie  Guard-house,  the  post  defended  by 


394 


most  of  them  throughout  the  perilous  siege.  Had  it  not 
been  for  the  forethought  of  Sir  Henry  Lawrence  in 
storing  the  Residency  for  the  siege  when  others  dis- 
believed and  ridiculed,  the  English  would  not  be 
within  five  thousand  miles  of  India.  They  would  all 
have  been  massacred  without  a monument  to  tell  of 
their  sacrifice  to  official  credulity  and  stupidity.  The 
mutiny  broke  out  on  the  30th  of  May,  1857,  and  from 
this  date  until  the  25th  of  September  was  the  time 
of  the  siege.  During  all  this  dismal  period  the  rebels 
maintained  an  almost  continual  cannonade,  and  the 
fire  of  musketry  came  from  all  sides.  They  mined, 
but  the  Residency  defence  always  beat  them  at  this 
game,  having  better  knowledge  and  skill.  Assaults 
were  frequent,  but  were  always  repulsed,  though  the 
work  of  destruction  went  steadily  on,  the  fine  building 
with  heavy  brick  walls,  which  had  stood  more  than  a 
century,  was  honeycombed,  and  one  after  another  of 
its  defenders  were  falling. 

It  is  one  of  the  enigmas  of  existence  how  much  the 
human  organism  can  endure,  what  a strain  the  “ harp 
of  a thousand  strings”  can  bear  in  the  awful  exigen- 
cies which  give  interest,  power  and  pathos  to  history. 
The  eyes  of  the  world  were  on  those  few  suffering 
heroes ; for  this  Residency  enclosure  was  in  that  siege 
all  the  British  possessed  in  their  new  kingdom  of 
Oudh.  The  place  excites  strange  sensations  even  now 
by  its  beauty  and  desolation.  It  stands  on  the  high- 
est ground  on  all  the  plain  and  gives  relief  to  the 
oppressive  evenness  about  it.  On  one  corner  are  now 
the  ruins  of  the  Residency  church,  with  only  frag- 
ments of  the  piers  of  its  foundations  st^'nding,  the  con- 
tour of  which  is  easily  traced.  Around  this  place  of 
worship  are  laid  the  heroic  dead ; only  their  brave 


395 


deeds  have  built  the  monument  oi  their  greatness  ; 
all  else  is  simple  and  severely  chaste.  That  little  gar- 
den, sown  with  immortal  seed,  is  a wonder  of  its  kind. 
Vines  have  crept  up  the  crosses  that  mark  the  resting- 
places  of  the  departed ; they  have  by  an  instinct  heavenly 
sought  to  beautify  the  wrecks  that  violence  has  made. 
Ivy  has  spread  its  tendrils  and  leaves  over  the  graves ; 
roses  bloom ; trumpet  creepers  have  twined  themselves 
about  the  temple  ruins;  the  banyans  from  without  the 
enclosure  have  spread  out  their  great  boughs  to  keep 
away  the  fierceness  of  the  tropical  suns ; the  cypress 
stands  sentinel  over  the  sacred  trusts ; the  air  is  full  of 
fragrance ; and  the  skies  are  full  of  song.  The  presence 
of  the  pilgrim  seems  to  disturb  all  these  speaking  and 
speechless  creatures  in  their  devotions.  Shadows  are 
tossed  gently  across  by  moving  branches.  Every 
sound  seems  to  be  an  intrusion,  and  one  is  even  sur- 
prised at  the  loudness  and  inharmoniousness  of  his 
own  voice  seeking  for  the  secrets  of  this  abode  of 
deathly  repose. 

From  this  point  a hill  is  climbed  through  a forest 
of  choice  trees,  which  the  humbler  growths  rival  by 
their  beauties,  until  a ruin  is  reached  ; all  that  is  left 
of  the  once  famous  Residency.  It  was  built  of 
bricks  an  inch  and  a half  thick,  with  a mortar  that 
cannot  be  separated  from  the  brick.  Most  of  the  out- 
side walls  are  standing.  The  round  tower  is  still  as  it 
was  when  the  beleaguered  remnant  left  it.  It  was  the 
watch-tower  in  which  all  through  those  terrible  days 
and  nights  an  of&cer  held  his  position  amidst  flying  mis- 
siles, and  with  a glass  watched  the  movements  of  the 
enemy.  The  British  flag  waved  from  that  round 
tower  every  hour  of  that  long  siege.  The  tower,  with 
the  ruin  it  crowns,  is  covered  with  ivy,  in  which  count- 


396 


less  birds  sing  and  twitter.  Across  a hall  on  the 
floor  above  the  basement  is  the  room  in  which  the 
great  and  good  commander,  Sir  Henry  Lawrence, 
was  wounded  by  a shell  that  ended  his  life  on  the 
4th.  He  was  carried  to  the  house  of  the  physician^ 
Dr.  Fay  vers,  and  died  there  in  great  suffering,  but  in 
Christian  composure.  He  had  made  all  preparation 
for  the  event  before  it  came  as  to  who  would  succeed 
him  in  command,  and  knowing,  as  he  did,  what 
awaited  captives  in  the  hands  of  the  mutineers,  a train 
was  laid  that  in  the  last  moment  all  the  men  and  women 
should  be  blown  up,  and  so  dying,  at  least,  without 
outrage  to  the  persons  of  those  whose  honor  was  worth 
more  than  life.  The  partition  walls  where  this  great, 
true  and  good  man  received  his  death  wound  have 
crumbDd  from  the  second  story.  There  is  a strange  fas- 
cination in  the  places  where  heroes  have  fallen  in 
obedience  to  duty  and  in  defence  of  the  helpless.  If 
it  is  sweet  and  becoming  to  die  for  one’s  country,  it  is- 
nobler  and  sublimer  for  those  who  by  their  very  help- 
lessness appeal  to  the  sacrificial  principle  that  under- 
lies all  great  manhood. 

At  one  end  of  the  building  were  two  deep  cellars, 
or  basements,  only  above  ground  sufficient  to  let  in  a 
little  light  through  gratings.  In  this  the  women  and 
children  were  gathered.  And  what  a place  it  became  f 
Heaven  only  can  reveal  its  secrets.  There  children 
were  born  amid  the  continuous  boomings  of  cannon 
and  the  crash  of  falling  walls  breached  by  the  enemy’s 
batteries.  There  children  died  and  were  buried  under 
the  floor  of  earth.  There  the  cholera  raged  in  its 
desolating  furies,  and  the  victims  had  to  be  disposed 
of  as  soon  as  possible.  Husbands  were  killed  above 
and  laid  away,  whose  death  their  family  knew  not 


397 


until  their  deliverance.  Limbs  were  shot  away  from 
the  bodies  of  the  brave  defenders,  but  the  loving  ones 
in  the  cellar  knew  it  not.  Food  was  let  down  in  baskets 
and  water  in  buckets.  This  was  all  that  could  be  done, 
as  husbands,  sons  and  brothers  could  not  be  spared 
from  their  posts  of  duty  to  descend  into  tHat  vault 
where  women  were  more  heroically  fighting  disease 
and  the  king  of  terrors.  Stray  shots  entered  and  did 
their  fatal  work.  One  woman  was  killed  by  the  con- 
cussion ; another  had  her  head  shot  from  her  body ; 
and  another  had  her  babe  shot  away  from  her  arms,  no 
fragment  of  which  did  she  ever  see  again.  Long  and 
weary  and  heart-breaking  was  that  awful  siege  to  the 
soldiers  underground.  Their  groanings  went  up  to 
the  very  throne  of  God.  The  cry  was,  “ How  long, 
O Lord,  will  thou  not  avenge  us  on  our  enemies.” 

The  story  of  the  wife  of  a corporal,  known  as  Jessie 
of  Lucknow,  is  no  idle  romance  to  be  ignored.  She 
dreamed  three  nights  in  succession  that  deliverance 
was  near,  and  w’oke  in  delirium,  crying,  “Dinna 
ye  hear  the  sloghan.”  Heartless  critics  may  waive  it 
into  the  unreal,  but  no  soldier  of  that  remnant  could 
ever  be  found  who  even  distrusts  it.  The  Highlanders 
came  the  day  after  her  last  night’s  dream,  just  as  she 
said,  with  dusky  faces  and  bloody  hands,  both  under 
Havelock  and  Sir  Colin  Campbell,  so  it  matters  little 
between  them  to  whom  it  applied.  The  release  was 
one  of  the  monumental  pages  of  heroism  in  all  the  re- 
cords of  military  achievements,  which  brought  before 
the  world  one  of  the  most  noble  in  the  true  ideal  of 
manhood  who  ever  lived  to  glorify  God  or  serve  his 
race.  Sir  Henry  Havelock.  Poverty  and  nobility  held 
joint  tenure  in  that  life  tip  to  this  moment.  He  had 
not  been  known  before,  because  too  poor  to  purchase 


398 


position,  too  noble  to  get  it  by  management.  He  had 
’ been  sent  to  Persia,  where,  as  usual,  he  had  finished 
his  work.  On  the  way  to  India  for  this  struggle,  he 
was  shipwrecked  and  was  barely  saved  to  a sublimer 
destiny.  His  praises  cannot  be  spoken  without  the 
mention  of  one  so  noble  as  to  give  him  the  opportunity 
to  finish  his  crowning  work.  Sir  James  Outram,  the 
S3nior  officer  in  command,  placed  himself  under  Have- 
lock as  a volunteer,  and  completed  the  work  when  the 
sword  dropped  from  the  hand  of  the  dying  hero. 

It  would  be  impossible,  except  in  a general  way,  to 
describe  General  Havelock’s  advance,  the  reason  be- 
ing that  the  places  are  so  diflferent  from  any  descrip- 
tions. Havelock  appeared  at  the  spot  where  he  lies 
in  death  at  Alam  Bagh,  a large  pavilion,  the  jdace 
provided  by  the  former  King  Wajia  Ali  for  the  occa- 
sional occupancy  of  a favorite  wife.  This  is  about 
two  miles  south-west  of  the  besieged  Residency.  It 
became  an  initial  point  for  the  relieving  forces  of  both 
Outram  and  Sir  Colin  Campbell.  It  was  strongly 
held  by  the  rebels,  but  was  reduced  by  Havelock  on 
his  advance  from  Cawnpore  on  September  23d.  On 
the  25th  of  September  the  rebels  had  moved  men  and 
batteries  up  to  the  Charbagh  Bridge,  across  a canal 
in  the  way  of  the  miniature  army  of  Britons  and  loyal 
Sikhs.  But  these  men  of  iron  forced  the  passage  and 
surprised  the  rebels  by  turning  to  the  east,  an  unex- 
pected move  apparently  away  from  the  Residency, 
and  bewildered  and  completely  disconcerted  the 
Sepoys.  But  they  recovered  themselves  and  threw 
their  weight  again  against  the  relieving  force  which 
was  sheltered  in  the  narrow  streets,  and  this  opposi- 
tion hindered  the  advance  several  hours,  so  that  it  was 
well  on  in  the  afternoon  before  they  reached  Begum 


399 


Koshi,  and  now  the  force  was  divided  into  three  dis- 
connected parts,  weakening  the  whole.  Each  division 
now  pressed  on  for  it.'-elf  until  they  should  meet  on 
the  way  or  at  the  Residency.  The  next  move  was  for 
Secundra  Bagh,  a high-walled  inclosure  in  ruins  now, 
about  one  hundred  and  twenty  yards  square  and  care- 
fully loopholed  on  all  sides,  and  held  by  the  rebels  in 
great  force.  Here,  under  Sir  Colin  Campbell,  they 
were  terribly  punished  on  the  16th  of  November. 
They  were  destroyed  before  Havelock’s  forces,  who 
made  for  the  Moti  Mahal,  or  Pearl  Palace,  in  the 
courtyards  of  which,  under  the  Nawabs,  the  fights  took 
place  between  wild  beasts.  Here  it  was  determined 
to  move  to  the  Residency  at  once,  under  a misconcep- 
tion that  help  must  be  immediate ; and  this  was  done 
with  a divided  force,  which  cost  heavy  loss.  The 
next  move  was  for  the  gate  near  the  Residency,  where 
desperate  fighting  was  encountered  by  more  than  ten 
to  one,  many  of  whom  were  protected  by  walls  and 
other  hiding  places.  ‘ The  fire  was  too  fierce  to  be  en- 
dured except  in  double  quick.  Here  the  brave  Gen- 
eral Neil,  with  his  fusilliers,  was  shot  in  the  archway, 
and  ever  since  that  spot  is  known  as  Neil’s  Gate. 

At  five  o’clock  the  Seventy-eighth  Highlanders 
and  the  loyal  Sikhs  (kept  so  by  the  justness,  kind- 
ness and  wisdom  of  Sir  John  Lawrence,  Governor  of 
the  Punjab)  pushed  through  toward  the  Residency, 
upon  which  they  charged,  loading,  shouting  and  firing 
until  the  relief  was  gained.  The  scenes  at  the  meet- 
ing between  the  beleaguered  and  their  brave  deliv- 
erers can  never  be  described.  But  while  the  rein- 
forcement of  brave  men  cheered,  it  brought  no  relief- 
It  was  in  a sense  a calamity ; for  they  too  were  in  turn 
beleaguered  and  doomed  to  weary  days  and  nights 


400 


of  waiting  until  their  deliverance  came.  The  in- 
crease of  soldiers  had  reduced  the  supplies  danger- 
ously near  starvation,  and  they  were  not  strong 
enough  to  extricate  themselves.  No  help  reached 
them  from  the  25th  of  September  until  the  22d  of 
November. 

Sir  Colin  Campbell  arrived  near  enough  to  be 
heard  on  the  11th  of  November  on  the  Cawnpore 
road.  He  first  released  the  troops  at  the  Alam  Baugh, 
left  by  Sir  Henry  Havelock  forty-seven  days  before. 
He  moved  eastward  up  to  the  Palace  Dilkoosha,  from 
which  the  enemy  retreated  down  to  La  Martiniere, 
and,  being  hotly  pursued,  left  this  in  time  to  give 
the  General  a place  to  stay  for  the  night  in  the  enjoy- 
ment of  a fine  palace.  Next  day  the  mutineers  were 
in  trouble  with  divided  councils  and  had  not  much  ap- 
petite for  fight.  Here  the  General  executed  a feint, 
leading  the  enemy  to  believe  that  he  was  about  to  follow 
the  route  of  Havelock  and  Outram  two  months  be- 
fore. On  the  16th  of  November  the  General  reached 
Seconder  Baugh  unobserved,  bombarded  and  took 
it  by  assault.  The  Chouppar  stables  were  cap- 
tured in  the  afternoon.  The  Shah  Nujuf  succumbed, 
and  the  forces  called  it  a day  and  rested  for  the 
night.  Next  day  Teri  Kothi  was  taken,  Moti  Mahal 
stormed  and  taken  by  the  troops  of  Captain,  now  Sir 
Garnet  Wolseley,  and  in  the  afternoon  communication 
was  opened  with  the  force  of  Sir  James  Outram,  who 
had  forced  his  way  from  Neil  Gate,  and  who  had 
made  the  first  eff^ort  with  Havelock. 

After  Havelock’s  entrance  into  the  Residency  Sir 
James  Outram  assumed  command,  as  Havelock’s 
health  began  to  fail.  Outram  had  fought  his  way 
out  of  the  garden  north  of  the  Shere  Darwazah, 


401 


had  cleared  the  spaces  all  around  him,  and  was  ready 
to  welcome  the  last  relieving  force.  Near  Neil’s  Gate 
he  dismounted  and  ran  through  volleys  of  rebel  bul- 
lets to  meet  and  greet  Sir  Colin  Camp^-ell.  Havelock, 
nearer  the  great  relieving  force  of  heaven,  came  like 
an  inspired  coi’pse  through  the  same  dangers  to  greet 
him  for  the  last  time  in  the  battles  of  earth. 

The  evacuation  began  immediately.  On  the  night 
of  the  22d  of  November  the  Residency  and  its  grounds 
were  silently  left  to  the  ruins  and  loneliness  of  a life- 
less future.  Each  of  the  positions  held  along  the  road 
to  the  Dil  Kusha  was  abandoned  in  turn  until  a 
place  of  restful  respite  to  the  tired,  grief-smitten 
remnant  was  gained,  where  the  sick  had  their  first 
comforts,  and  where  Havelock,  having  finished  his 
work  and  witnessed  the  deliverance  of  those  for  whom 
he  gave  his  life,  sank  down  into  the  arms  of  death  and 
the  rest  which  it  brings  to  the  Christian  soldier  when 
his  last  battle  has  been  fought.  His  dust  lies  within 
the  inclosure  of  Alam  Baugh,  from  which  he  had 
started  in  his  effort  to  relieve  his  suffering  countrymen. 

As  one  gazes  on  that  ruin  now  after  thirty  years 
the  sadness  and  distresses  are  only  as  spent  agonies. 
Imagination  cannot  supply  the  events  now  silent  in 
the  chasm  between.  The  roar  of  artillery,  the  clash  of 
arms,  the  heavy  thuds  of  ordnance  and  exploding 
mines,  the  falling  fragments  of  the  shelter  about  those 
helpless  inmates,  the  torments  of  heat,  the  sleeplessness, 
the  cries  of  sick  and  dying  children,  for  whom  there 
was  no  hope  of  mitigation,  the  explosions  of  roofs,  the 
tumbling  of  side  walls,  the  slow  decay  of  wounds,  the 
raging  of  epidemics  amid  a plague  of  flies  that  would 
not  be  frayed  away,  the  closing  of  the  eyes  of  the 
dead,  the  desperate  efforts  at  burials,  the  unspeakable 


402 


uncleanliness  of  confluent  small-pox,  the  wail  of  birth, 
pangs,  mingling  with  those  begging  to  die,  these  ills- 
can  be  catalogued  at  the  end  of  thirty  years,  but  they 
never  can»^be  described.  The  deep  silence  that  broods 
over  the  places  where  they  occurred  is  a thousand 
times  more  eloquent  than  pen  or  tongue. 

On  the  26th  of  September  the  strength  of  the  garri- 
son was  1,179,  the  loss  being  chiefly  among  Europeans. 
Out  of  nine  officers  of  the  Bengal  Artillery  five  had 
fallen,  eleven  ladies  and  fifty-three  children  had  per- 
ished by  violence  or  disease,  and  between  that  date 
and  the  final  relief  by  Sir  Colin  Campbell,  November 
17th,  one  hundred  and  twenty-two  more  of  the  old 
garrison  and  four  hundred  of  Havelock’s  men  had 
died.  This  is  a fragmentary,  and  necessarily  in  a 
military  sense  an  imperfect  review ; but  it  will  serve 
to  give  an  idea  of  the  siege  and  its  distresses  to  those 
who  have  been  born  since,  and  revive  memories  to 
those  who  lived  in  those  direful  days. 

Lucknow  has  not  the  beauties  of  some  of  the  In- 
dian cities,  but  is  superior  to  Cawnpore,  having  build- 
ings that  are  worthy  of  commendation.  Some  of  the 
number  have  already  been  described.  “ The  great  Im- 
ambara,  or  the  house  of  the  prophet,  which  is  the  archi- 
tectural gem  of  Lucknow,  and  which  was  the  crowning 
work  of  Asufu-dowlah’s  reign,  is  said  to  have  cost  a 
million  sterling,  and  to  have  been  built  after  a com- 
petitive design.  The  condition  imposed  was  that  it 
should  excel  in  beauty  and  magnificence  every  thing 
ever  built,  and  be  unlike  any  thing  of  the  kind  on  the 
earth.  Kyfee-ut-Ullah  is  the  reputed  name  of  the 
architect.”  It  is  built  for  one  purpose,  i.  e.,  ostenta- 
tion, and  is  a moderate  success.  It  subserves  no  end 
but  the  gratification  of  vanity,  and  to  enhance  the  fame 


403 


of  an  Oriental  upstart.  It  is  situated  within  beautiful 
surroundings,  Nature  has  been  forced  into  the  empty 
service,  but  even  the  servile  work  of  nature  carries  in 
it  the  sublime.  The  building  has  a length  of  three  hun- 
dred and  three  feet;  breadth  one  hundred  and  sixty- 
three;  height,  sixty-three.  The  effect  is  dazzling,  and 
the  best  thing  in  its  history  is  that  it  was  built  during 
a famine,  in  order,  it  is  said,  to  provide  for  a starving 
population,  and  was  completed  in  1783.  In  the 
middle  of  the  central  room  are  interred  the  remains 
of  the  late  Nawab  Vizier,  who  died  in  1797.  The 
gorgeous  hall  was  usually  illumined  with  wax  tapers, 
and  literally  bestrewn  with  flowers  of  the  rarest 
and  most  expensive  kind.  Priests  were  in  attend- 
ance day  and  night  chanting  verses  from  the  Koran, 
but  they  are  out  of  business  now,  and  silence,  quite 
as  devout,  reigns  in  their  stead.  The  general  pre- 
vailing style  in  India  of  the  times  is  seen  in  every 
part,  finished  in  domes  and  minarets,  with  the  usual 
display  of  gilding. 

Another  architectural  display  is  the  Hoseinabad 
Imambara.  This  is  a memento  of  Mohamed  xA.li 
Shah  III.,  king  of  Oudh.  It  is  in  the  same  general 
style  of  this  century  prevailing  in  India,  fantastic  and 
frail-looking,  giving  indifferent  ideas  of  permanency. 
It  consists  of  two  rectangular  enclosures  of  different 
sizes,  a series  of  stall-looking  spaces  with  gateways  in 
the  centre  of  each  side.  By  the  larger  quadrangle  en- 
trance is  made  to  the  smaller  one,  in  which  stands  the 
Imambara  on  the  southern  side  of  the  quadrangle,  and 
contains  the  tombs  of  Mohamed  Ali  Shah  and  his 
mother.  The  Imambara  is  an  oblong  building  divided 
lengthwise  into  three  rooms,  the  partition  walls 
arcaded  and  highly  ornamented  in  Arabesque.  In 


404 


the  middle  room  are  the  tombs,  and  in  the  central, 
on  a raised  platform,  is  a silver  tajia  and  a tabooth 
covered  with  net,  under  which  are  the  crown  and  other 
insignia  of  the  defunct  ruler.  The  whole  is  enclosed 
under  a vaulted  roof  and  a gilded  dome.  The  floor  is 
paved  with  marble  of  diflerent  colors  in  beautiful 
patterns.  From  the  ceilings  hang  magnificent  crystal 
chandaliers.  The  sides  are  ornamented  with  pier 
glasses.  The  elevation  in  front  is  a basement,  part 
of  which  form^  an  open  verandah,  which  on  fes- 
tival occasions  is  covered  with  tapestry,  forming 
an  awning  supported  by  poles  encased  in  silver. 
There  is  within  the  quadrangle  a stone  tank  crossed 
once  by  an  iron  bridge.  On  the  west  side  is  a 
small  model  of  the  Taj  Mahal  at  Agra,  in  which  is 
the  tomb  of  the  king’s  daughter.  On  the  east  side, 
uniform  in  plan,  is  a similar  building.  A gateway 
of  three  pointed  arches  wrought  in  stucco  forms  the 
main  entrance.  The  whole  efifect  is  pleasing,  though 
architecturally  it  will  not  bear  inspection  in  the  light 
of  modern  art.  As  it  is  no  part  of  the  purpose  in 
hand  to  produce  a guide  to  Lucknow,  no  more  space 
will  be  required.  Our  readers  are  in  possession  of  the 
best^'land  descriptions  can  only  give  general  impres- 
sions. 

The  mission  work  at  this  place  is  most  important  and 
interesting.  The  Methodists  of  the  North  hold  the  city 
for  the  great  King,  and  they  have  a good  hold.  Their 
property  is  the  best  in  many  respects  in  the  city,  and 
coming  so  soon  after  the  mutiny,  the  government  was 
anxious  to  bring  India  into  a better  moral  condition, 
and  was  liberal,  so  that  the  mission  property  did  not  cost  a 
fourth  of  its  present  value.  There  is  enough  of  it  to  make 
the  mission  entirely  self-supporting  in  the  future  if  the 


405 


English  hold  India.  The  missionaries  are  active,  ag- 
gressive, devout  and  noble  men  and  women,  an  honor 
to  the  Church  of  Christ  at  home  or  abroad.  There 
is  a publishing  house,  large  and  well  furnished,  belong- 
ing to  the  mission,  publishing  books,  doing  job  work, 
not  only  sustaining  itself,  but  a source  of  revenue. 
There  is  a book  depository  with  all  the  literature 
needed  in  every  department  of  the  mission  work.  The 
force  consists  of  Dr.  Johnson,  the  presiding  elder,  a 
man  of  brains,  large  experience  and  executive  abili- 
ties. His  wife  is  also  an  experienced  worker,  having 
learned  this  before  coming  to  India.  Rev.  B.  H.  Bad- 
ley  is  well  furnished  for  literary  work  and  evangelistic 
services,  one  of  the  men  who  can  be  fitted  into  almost 
any  responsibility.  His  wife  has  had  great  success  in 
zenana  work,  and  edits  a popular  paper'which  is  help- 
ful in  the  work,  and  has  already  a large  circulation. 
The  pastor  of  the  English-speaking  church  is  the  Rev. 
Mr.  Schively,  a Baltimorean,  who  is  also  superin- 
tendent of  the  printing  press. 

The  English  church  is  composed  of  Europeans  and 
Eurasians,  at  which  many  of  the  soldiers  wor- 
ship. The  pastor  is  sympathetic  and  draws  men 
around  him  as  sunshine  draws  chilliness  to  itself.  It 
was  a great  pleasure  to  preach  in  this  fine  church  in 
a week  night  service  to  so  many  intelligent  and  devout 
people,  and  to  feel  the  warm  welcome  of  genuine 
Christian  co-workers  at  home  and  abroad.  The 
hospitalities  of  the  mission  were  enjoyed  at  the  house 
of  Miss  Blackmar,  whose  work  is  remarkable  for  its 
originality  of  plan  and  purpose  and  for  its  success.  The 
need  to  which  help  has  been  so  blessedly  applied  is 
old  enough,  and  as  commonplace  as  old.  But  the  re- 
lieving force  is  by  a new  experiment.  It  is  a home 


406 


for  homeless  women  in  Lucknow,  and  was  opened  in 
1882.  Fifty-eight  native  women,  thirteen  children, 
nineteen  English  and  Eurasian  women,  and  ten  chil- 
dren, have  been  inmates  for  longer  or  shorter  periods. 
Some  have  continued  in  the  home  from  its  open- 
ing. It  has  been  open  ^to  Christians,  Hindus  and 
Mohammedans.  The  Christians,  received  and  helped, 
have  come  from  eight  different  missions,  chiefly 
in  the  Methodist  and  church  missionary  connection;  of 
these,  ten  women  and  seven  children  have  been  bap- 
tized. Two  hours  daily  are  given  to  instruction  in 
the  Scriptures.  All  can  read  the  Bible  in  one  of  the 
vernaculars,  or  in  the  English.  They  are  also  taught 
to  work  in  the  way  best  adapted  to  preparing  them  for 
taking  care  of  themselves.  Some  are  taught  to  be 
nurses,  some  housework,  sewing,  &c.  A single  in- 
stance will  show  the  work  in  at  least  one  of  its  phases. 
A young  native  woman,  pretty  and  attractive,  who  had 
lived  as  the  wife  of  an  Englishman,  persuaded  that 
she  was  his  wife  and  true  to  him,  was  cast  off  in 
order  to  make  place  for  a European  wife,  a sadly  com- 
mon occurrence  with  too  many.  She  was  left  without 
a crumb  or  rag  between  her  and  starvation  and  cold.  In 
her  despair  she  sought  the  door  of  th  is  institution  and  was 
received.  Her  conduct  was  unexceptionable;  sheiefused 
to  think  that  she  was  any  thing  but  the  wife  of  the  high- 
toned  vagabond  who  had  cast  her  off.  From  the  first 
she  astonished  all  ‘her  teachers  in  application  and 
ability  to  gain  knowledge.  The  English  language 
was  acquired,  and  with  it  a knowledge  of  the  Scrip- 
tures. At  first  she  would  hear  nothing  on  the  subject 
of  religon  and  would  not  come  to  prayers ; but  the 
policy  of  giving  her  good  reading  and  letting  her  alone 
was  pursued.  At  last,  of  her  own  free  will  and  with 


407 


ti  determination  resistless,  she  yielded  to  the  force  of 
Christianity  and  became  an  intelligent  convert.  An  op- 
portunity came  through  which  she  entered  the  gov- 
ernment medical  college,  and  is  there  carrying  every 
honor  before  her  and  giving  promise  not  only  of  a use- 
ful professional  life,  but  of  Christian  service  in  it  as 
well. 

The  Methodist  mission  has  also  a school  for  boys, 
five  hundred  and  fifty  in  attendance.  It  has  in  Luck-, 
now  a native  church  self-supporting,  which  pays  its 
pastor  thirty-five  rupees  a month.  The  missionaries 
are  well  fitted  for  their  work  and  are  doiug  it  grandly, 
and  it  is  a pleasure  to  testify  in  their  behalf  as  appre- 
ciatingly  as  they  do  to  the  work  done  before  them  by 
the  Presbyterians  in  India,  by  which  they  say  theirs 
was  made  comparatively  easy  because  these  had  per- 
formed the  hard  labor  of  preparing  a literature,  which 
was  an  incalculable  advantage  to  them,  and  had  also 
lent  them  a first-class  missionary  to  help  them  in  their 
beginning. 

CHAPTER  XXXVII. 

ALLAHABAD. 

SOUTH-EAST  of  Cawnpore,  on  the  way  to  Alla- 
habad, the  railway  threads  through  a magnifi- 
cent country,  showing  unmistakably  the  effects  of 
the  Southern  climate.  Vegetation  is  more  tropical ; 
nature  more  winsome.  The  cities  of  Futtehpore  and 
Berhampore  are  the  only  ones  worthy  of  observation. 
As  the  twin  rivers  are  approached  vegetation  becomes 
more  luxuriant.  The  Ganges  is  the  most  wonderful 
river  in  the  world.  It  is  to  India  what  the  river  of 
life  is  to  the  new  Jerusalem.  It  is  believed  by  at  least 


408 


one  hundred  millions  of  the  human  race  to  be  the 
river  of  cleansing  for  soul  and  body,  and  healing  as 
well. 

Allahabad,  the  famous  city  of  the  southern  extrem- 
ity of  the  north-west  provinces,  is  situated  on  the 
south-eastern  part  of  the  Doab,  or  land  of  the  two 
rivers,  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  Ganges,  which 
drains  the  Eastern  Himalayas,  and  the  Jumna,  which 
drains  the  western  slopes  of  the  same  range,  the 
Mewat  Highlands  and  the  great  chain  of  the  Ara- 
vallis.  These  rivers  in  supplies  are  about  eq'ml, 
and  may  be  styled  the  twin  waters  of  India.  The 
natives  have  a legend,  and  believe  it  to  be  the  truth, 
that  there  is  a third  river  which  courses  its  way  below 
the  surface  of  observation,  the  Sarasv/ate,  or  the  lost 
river  of  the  Serhind  Plain,  which  appears  at  Allaha- 
bad and  waters  the  sacred  tree  in  the  crypt  of  the 
fort,  and  running  under  the  walls  joins  the  twins  in  a 
grand  tri-unity.  We  did  not  go  so  deep  into  unseen 
things  and  cannot  dispute  the  belief. 

Allahabad  is  just  now  the  nexus  between  the  past 
and  present,  for  new  India  would  tread  on  the  coat- 
tails of  old  India,  if  she  had  any.  The  city  is  reached 
from  one  direction  by  a work  of  modern  triumph,  a 
magnificent  iron  bridge  crossing  the  Jumna,  one  of  the 
wonders  of  our  times.  The  Jumna  is  as  capricious  as 
the  Missouri  and  quite  as  tricky  in  its  inclination  to 
undermine  and  upset  whatever  is  trusted  to  its  moving 
sands,  and  delights  itself  in  robbing  one  side  to  enrich 
the  other,  running  away  from  its  friends  who  have 
gathered  themselves  into  towns,  and  leaving  them  out 
in  the  dry  desert.  The  engineers  went  about  as  deep 
for  foundations  for  the  piers  as  was  done  at  St.  Louis 
for  the  great  tubular  bridge,  the  marvel  of  Ameri- 


409 


can  enterprise.  The  city  is  growing  into  wealth  and 
importance  and  contains  143,693  inhabitants,  and 
shows  that  civilization  is  elbowing  its  way  through 
the  graveyard  of  the  past  by  a few  fine  modern  build- 
ings and  several  splendid  roadways,  a covered  mar- 
ket-place of  some  pretensions  and  a dispensary,  especi- 
ally noteworthy  because  of  the  great  name  it  commemo- 
rates, the  late  Hon.  John  Russell  Colvin,  who  died  in 
the  mutiny.  Soon  after  the  mutiny  the  seat  of  gov- 
ernment was  transferred  to  this  place  on  account  of 
supposed  military  advantages. 

But  the  changes  of  the  present  are  more  or  less 
reared  on  its  past,  and  cannot  be  considered  out  of  re- 
lation to  it.  It  had  a life  in  religion  and  poetry  be- 
fore the  Briton  set  his  eyes  and  hands  upon  it,  before 
he  was  Briton  to  see  or  clutch  any  part  of  his  now 
vast  dominions.  The  fabled  Naiads  sung  and  danced 
before  they  thought  of  a pilgrimage  to  Greece,  or  be- 
fore Greece  heard  of  them  they  were  happy  in  the 
tropical  glories  of  the  Jumna.  This  is  the  land  of 
myths,  in  which  their  real  or  imaginary  presence  still 
lives  in  vague  reminiscences  of  happier  days.  It.  has 
been  a country  of  poetry,  which  always  loves  to  sun 
itself  in  cloudless  skies.  To  India  one  hundred  and 
seventy-eight  of  the  hymns  of  the  Rig  Veda  are  ad- 
dressed. Greece  has  been  a great  borrower,  and  this 
has  helped  to  make  her  bankrupt,  for  as  the  history 
of  the  world  is  better  known  she  is  being  reduced  in 
her  estate  of  relics  of  dead  empires.  Zeus  was  not  the 
son  of  Homer  ; he  was  not  the  creation  of  this  blind 
songster.  The  Aryans  had  him  before  they  moved 
west,  and  worshipped  him  on  the  steppes  of  Tartary 
and  in  the  Punjab  of  Northern  India. 


410 


Pruyag,  the  moon  god,  had  the  contract  of  lighting 
up  the  sacred  spot  between  the  Ganges  and  the 
rippled  Jumna.  Here  the  Yedic  Rishis,  inspired 
alike  by  poetic  fancies  and  religious  fervors,  ap- 
proached the.  union  of  the  two  river  deities  with  rever- 
ential awe.  Here  the  Aryan  Kshatriyas,  the  second 
caste  of  Hinduism,  with  the  instinct  of  conquest, 
built  a fortress,  which  secured  and  held  to  them  all  the 
upper  valleys  of  the  Ganges  and  Jumna,  and  dominated 
the  country  of  the  Bengalese  to  the  south  of  Pragaga, 
as  the  ancient  city  was  called,  no  doubt  the  oldest 
city  of  the  Rajputs.  There  is  little  doubt  that  a city 
stood  at  the  confluence  of  these  rivers  in  the  days  of 
the  Macedonian  Empire.  Feasts  were  held  here  in 
the  eighth  century  of  the  Christian  era  in  the  presence 
of  the  Chinese  Buddhist,  Hwen  Thsang.  Probably 
from  the  coming  of  the  Aryans,  or  soon  after,  to  the 
present  this  junction  has  always  been  the  holiest  spot  in 
Hindustan,  has  had  happiness  by  the  acre,  has  been 
able  to  make  the  copper  coin  of  the  devotee  equal  to  a 
million  anywhere  else.  When  Aaron  was  in  the  calf 
foundry  business  at  the  foot  of  Sinai  thirty-three  cen- 
turies ago,  the  probabilities  are  strong  that  the  Hindus 
were  worshipping  living  cows  and  calves  between  the 
Ganges  and  Jumna.  There  are  intimations  in  this  cow- 
worship  at  Sinai  and  at  the  confluence  of  the  Ganges  and 
Jumna,  that  the  Hindus  originally  came  from  the  val- 
ley of  the  Euphrates.  This  place  is  also  one  of  the 
supposed  sites  of  the  ancient  city  Paliboothra,  for 
which  historians  have  so  long  been  in  search  of  a 
place  for  it  to  sit  down.  It  is  also  probable  that 
this  was  the  place  where  the  Yakeel  embassador 
of  Seleucus,  Alexander’s  General,  came  to  conclude  a 
treaty  with  Sandracottus,  as  the  G'reeks  called  him,  or 


411 


Sandragutta,  as  he  was  known  to  the  Hindus.  • He 
was  no  myth  to  the  Greeks,  for  he  was  able  to  march  to 
meet  them  on  the  banks  of  the  Indus  at  the  head  of 
six  hundred  thousand  fighting  men  three  centuries  be- 
fore the  Christian  era. 

In  this  connection  there  is  an  incident  and  explana- 
tion of  the  despair  and  victory  of  Alexander  which  is 
interesting,  showing  the  peculiarity  of  both  elephants 
and  Greeks,  the  Greek  cunning  and  the  elephant’s  pre- 
judices and  disgusts.  Alexander’s  army  wa§  over- 
whelmed at  the  magnitude  and  imposing  character  of 
the  Indian  army,  mounted  on  its  castellated  elephants. 
Alexander  was  told  of  the  weakness  of  the  proud  tur- 
reted  elephants  at  the  presence  of  pigs,  their  disgust 
and  horror  of  them,  and  taking  advantage  of  his 
knowledge  he  ordered  to  the  front  herds  of  swine  and 
prodded  them  into  squealing,  grunting  and  snorting, 
upset  the  solemn  demeanor  of  the  elephants,  dissi- 
pated their  courage,  so  that,  according  to  the  quaint  des- 
cription in  ancient  spelling,  “ ye  pygges  upset  the 
elephanntes  altogether,  and  they  began  to  fie  eche  one, 
and  keste  down  ye  castelles  from  their  backes,  and 
slewe  ye  knyghtes.”  By  this  means  “ Alysandre  had 
ye  vyctorie.”  This  is  on  the  authority  of  Job  Mili- 
tant, and  is  regarded  by  the  ancients  as  entirely  re- 
liable. The  antiquity  of  this  famous  spot  in  history 
is  further  confirmed  by  a monument  now  within  the 
courtyard  of  the  fort,  known  as  the  Pillar  of  Asoka, 
forty-two  feet  high.  It  is  a monolith  not  unlike  those 
of  Egypt,  in  a wonderful  state  of  preservation  for  its 
age. 

As  the  most  ancient  city  Pragaga  has  long  ago  disap- 
peared there  are  but  few  traces  of  the  Buddhist  monu- 
ments seen  and  described  by  the  Chinese  pilgrim  in 


412 


\ 

the  seventh  century.  They  may  have  yielded  to  the 
undermining  tendency  of  the  deceitful  waters  of  the 
J umna,  as  the  course  of  that  river  for  three  miles  above 
the  confluence  has  been  due  west  and  east  of  what  it  was 
many  centuries  ago.  This  monolith  becomes  of  vast 
importance  as  the  last  tell-tale  of  the  Buddhist  domi- 
nation in  this  place.  There  were  originaUy  three  of 
these  monoliths  in  India,  one  stood  in  Delhi,  and  the 
third  is  in  Benares.  This  one  in  the  fort  at  Allahabad 
bears  the  inscriptions  of  Asoka  Samudra  Gupta  and 
Jehangir : — Erected  by  Asoka,  before  Christ  two  hun- 
dred and  forty  years,  for  the  purpose  of  inscribing  his  • 
edicts  regarding  the  propagation  of  Buddhism.  It  was 
used  afterwards  by  Samudra  Gupta,  about  the  second 
century  of  the  Christian  era,  for  a record  of  his  univer- 
sal sovereignty  over  the  various  nations  of  India  from 
the  Nepul  to  the  Dakhan  and  from  Gujarat  to  Assam, 
and  subsequently  it  was  re-erected  by  the  Moghul  Em- 
peror Jehangir  to  commemorate  his  accession  to  the 
throne"  in  the  year  1605.  According*  to  an  universal 
instinct  of  common  folk,  in  a strain  after  immortality,  to 
be  writing  names  in  great  and  high  places  this  famous 
pillar  has  been  invaded  and  the  names  of  many  an- 
cient travellers  appear,  from  the  Christian  era  down- 
ward. We  do  not  mean  that  this  instinct  was  a birth 
or  output  of  Christianity,  only  Christianity  has  not 
been  able  either  to  extinguish  it  or  shake  it  off.  In  this 
particular  instance  the  silly  practice  has  been  of  some 
use  in  disclosing  the  periods  in  which  the  pillar  has 
been  standing  and  overthrown.  That  it  was  over- 
thrown about  the  middle  of  the  third  century  before 
Christ  is  proved  by  the  longitudinal  scribbling  of 
names,  in  which  the  “ m”  and  “ b”  retain  the  old  form* 
The  other  reason  for  supposing  that  the  monolith  lay 


413 


prostrate  when  these  names  were  written  is  that  if  it 
had  been  standing  it  would  have  required  a scaffold 
to  scratch  them,  and  this  kind  do  n6t  pay  for  scaffold- 
ing from  which  to  exhibit  their  greatness.  Their 
efforts  at  immortality  are  on  the  side  of  economy. 

The  Mussulmans,  no  doubt,  mistook  it  for  an  idol 
and  upset  it,  for  there  are  no  writings  on  it  of  the 
Pala  or  Saranath  type  of  the  tenth  century.  The 
edi(?ts  of  Asoka  are  of  twofold  character,  one  enlarg- 
ing on  the  scriptural  doctrine  that  the  practice  of  vir- 
tue is  the  best  sacrifice,  and  the  other  teaching  the 
peculiar  doctrines  of  the  Buddhists,  the  sacredness  of 
animal  life  and  the  sin  of  destroying  or  neglecting: 
it ; the  name  also  of  Seleucus  being  mentioned,  and 
other  successors  of  Alexander  the  Great.  The  date 
has  been  approximately  fixed  at  about  the  middle  of 
the  second  century  before  Christ.  In  front  of  monu- 
ments of  this  kind  in  India  is  found  almost  univer- 
sally the  Pipal  tree,  claimed  by  some  to  be  descended 
from  the  tree  of  knowledge,  a faint  tracing  of  an  uni- 
versal tradition  made  use  of  by  the  Buddhists. 

The  tree  belonging  to  this  obelisk  is  here,  and  leads 
us  into  another  wonder,  a subterranean  temple  or  crypt, 
at  the  base  of  which  are  the  roots  of  this  tree,  about 
fifteen  or  twenty  feet  deep.  The  Chinese  tourist, 
Hwen  Thsang,  in  the  seventh  century  saw  prol?ably 
this  now  underground  temple,  though  in  his  time  it 
bad  passed  from  the  hands  of  the  Buddhists  into  a 
place  of  the  bloody  rights  of  Shiva.  The  tree,  a part 
of  whose  trunk  appears  in  the  side  of  the  underground 
crypt,  was  no  doubt  the  original  companion  of  the 
monolith  buried  in  the  rubbish  of  centuries  and  pre- 
served in  this  dry  earth.  The  story  told  to  the  credu- 
lous or  not,  as  the  case  may  be,  is  that  it  was  placed 


414 


there  by  one  of  the  demigods,  who  broke  off  two  ends 
that  he  might  plant  one  at  Guya  and  the  other  at 
Jahanath. 

The  entrance  to  this  underground  temple  is  be- 
tween the  Pillar  of  Asoka  and  Ellenborough  Bar- 
racks. It  is  entered  by  a narrow  and  disagree- 
able passage,  through  which  one  is  conducted  by 
a villainous-looking  son  of  terra  incognita^  who  car- 
ries a smoking  kerosene  lanp — it  used  to  be  a torch 
— but  this  old,  greasy,  begrimed  lamp  of  modern  con- 
struction is  one  of  the  evidences  of  India’s  progress 
into  civilization.  We  were  taken  through  all  the 
places  of  mystery  and  nastiness,  so  offensive  that  the 
man  in  the  moon  was  holding  his  nose.  There  were 
the  usual  explanations  and  the  usual  object— the 
money  of  the  pilgrim.  The  courtyard  is  square,  and 
in  the  centre  is  the  disgusting  Phallic  emblem 
sacred  to  Shiva.  There  are  cloisters  at  the  sides  of 
the  quadrangle,  and  these  are  faintly  visible  in  smoky 
light,  the  air  being  so  foul  as  to  feebly  sustain 
combustion,  while  the  walls  drip  with  scanty  moisture 
said,  by  Hindus,  to  be  from  the  hidden  river  Sarsuti 
previously  described,  the  Indian  Arathusa  on  her 
way  to  join  the  Ganges  and  Jumna. 


CHAPTER  XXXVIII. 


THE  FORT,  STREET  SCENES,  AND  SERAI  GARDENS 
OF  ALLAHABAD. 

HE  present  fort  of  Allahabad  has  been  built 


and  rebuilt.  Its  identity  through  the  gray- 
headed centuries  is  unmistakable  as  to  its  posi- 
tion, but  otherwise  it  is  like  the  boy’s  jackknife, 
which  he  declared  to  be  the  one  owned  by  his  grand- 
father, only  it  had  had  new  handles,  blades  and. 
backspring.  Bishop  Heber  remarks  how  the  pic- 
turesque character  of  the  mediseval  castle  had  been 
sacrificed  to  the  improvements  dictated  by  the  military 
science  of  his  day,  and  there  has  been  little  else  but 
change  since  for  the  same  reasons.  The  lofty  towers,, 
more  for  ornament  than  defence,  have  been  dimin- 
ished and  the  high  stone  ramparts  topped  with  turf 
parapets  and  obscured  by  green  sloping  glacis.  The 
gateway  in  Heber’s  time  was  surmounted  by  a dome 
with  a wide  hall  beneath,  surrounded  by  arcades  and 
galleries  and  decorated  in  rude  designs. 

The  palace  exists  no  more  for  splendor ; it  is  gloomy 
and  neglected,  fighting  quite  successfully  the  ravages, 
of  time,  its  only  surviving  attraction  being  its  age  and 
the  veneration  which  old  age  commands.  The  present 
castle  was  built  by  Akbar,  about  1575,  and  it  has 
been  modified  and  enlarged  by  alternate  rulers  since. 
When  the  late  mutiny  broke  out  it  was  the  only  place 
except  Lucknow  in  Upper  India  which  did  not  fall 
into  the  hands  of  the  rebels.  “ Keep  Allahabad  safe” 
was  the  despatch  sent  from  Calcutta  by  Sir  Henry 
Lawrence.  It  was  held  by  the  heroic  baud,  one  to 


415 


416 


a thousand,  against  all  assaults  till  the  hero  Xeil,  who 
afterwards  fell  at  the  gate  bearing  his  name,  in  the  last 
efforts  of  the  relief  force  to  reach  the  remnant  in  the 
Residency  at  Cawnpore,  raised  the  siege  at  Allahabad. 
Allahabad  has  no  martyr  list  in  the  massacre  of  the 
rebellion,  but  there  were  individual  cases  of  heroism 
as  sublime  as  any  recorded. 

One  turns  from  the  places,  in  which  the  echoes  of 
the  life  of  centuries  seem  to  linger,  with  a sense  of 
loneliness,  as  if  in  the  midst  of  millions  who  do  not 
deign  even  to  nod  at  the  latest  intruder  into  the 
secrets  of  the  past.  The  Buddhists  are  gone,  who 
once  dominated  in  moral  life  here,  and  only  a stone, 
to  which  reference  has  already  been  made,  is  left, 
with  fragments  of  history,  to  redeem  them  from  a 
grave  in  oblivion  over  which  shimmers  no  hope  of  a 
resurrection.  Here  we  behold  the  conviction  of  a 
ruler,  and  his  edicts  two  hundred  and  seventy-three 
years  before  Christ.  What  wonders  have  come  and 
gone  since!  What  continents  discovered!  What 
governments  have  risen  and  fallen ! What  upheavals 
and  what  depressions  in  the  earth’s  crust  and  in  the 
life  that  moved  and  decayed  upon  it!  And  what  is 
more  confounding,  the  same  law  of  human  progress 
existed  and  wrought  its  wonders  then  that  works  now. 
God  lifts  men  up  out  of  the  lines  of  poverty  and  ob- 
scurity to  power,  conquest  and  rule.  Poverty  and 
obscurity  are  the  gates  through  which  men  pass  to 
glory.  The  illustrious  grandfather  of  Asoka,  whose 
edicts  are  graven  upon  the  shaft  before  us,  was  a found- 
ling brought  up  by  a cow-herd,  who  found  him  an  in- 
fant concealed  in  a jar,  hidden  in  a cow-pen.  He,  like 
Pharaoh’s  daughter,  fancied  the  neglected  outcast  so 
well  that  he  gave  him  to  his  wife  Tsandra,  and  her 


417 


name  was  joined  to  his,  as  was  often  done  to  distin- 
guish the  numerous  offsprings  of  somebody  and  every- 
body when  there  were  many  wives  in  the  same  house- 
hold. 

There  was  a strange  destiny  for  this  outcast  child* 
He  was  sold  to  a Brahmin,  who  was  plotting  against 
his  king  and  desired  an  heir,  and  having  heard 
of  his  uncommon  brightness,  he  bought  this  boy 
from  his  foster-parents  for  one  thousand  pieces  of 
silver.  He  had  another  adopted  son,  and  now 
the  two  were  dressed  alike  and  each  wore  a neck- 
lace of  gold.  The  father,  desiring  to  rid  himself 
of  one  of  them,  ordered  the  older  boy  to  take  a sword 
and  go  to  Tsandragutta,  the  one  last  bought,  who 
was  asleep,  and  take  off  his  necklace  without  untying 
or  cutting  it.  He  stood  over  his  adopted  brother  con- 
sidering how  he  could  do  this,  and  returned  to  his 
foster-father  and  said  he  could  not  find  a way. 
The  father  did  not  reply,  but  soon  after  when  the 
older  boy  was  asleep  he  told  the  one  bought  last  to  do 
what  he  had  told  the  other; — “Take  the  necklace 
from  the  neck  of  his  brother  without  cutting  or  un- 
tying the  string.”  He  was  quick  enough  to  take  the 
hint  and  unprincipled  enough  to  act  upon  it,  so  with  a 
single  stroke  he  took  off  his  brother’s  head  and  carried 
the  necklace  unbroken  or  uncut.  It  pleased  the 
old  Brahmin  that  he  was  smart  enough  to  see  the 
main  chance  and  bloodthirsty  enough  to  grasp  it.  He 
soon  after  bestowed  upon  him  all  his  wealth  and  as- 
sured him  that  he  was  appointed  by  fate  to  take  the 
throne  from  the  king,  his  personal  enemy,  and  then 
went  into  a far  country. 

The  young  head  cutter  rose  to  all  the  distinction 
prophesied,  got  the  throne  and  killed  the  king,  and 


418 


from  him  descended  Bindusuva,  and  he  was  father  ta 
one  hundred  and  one  sons,  one  of  whom  was  Asoka,  the 
man  who  had  his  edicts  cut  into  the  monolith  in  the  fort. 
There  was  no  royal  road  to  the  throne  of  India  but 
through  intrigue  and  blood,  and  through  these  Asoka 
took  it,  and  as  soon  as  in  possession  he  slew  all  his 
brothers  except  one,  and  this  noble  Hindu  king,  accord- 
ing to  Hindu  notions,  and  bloody  monster,  according  ta 
ours,  became  a Buddhist,  which  was  a shade  or  two  bet- 
ter than  Brahminism.  But  even  Buddhism  was  too  good 
to  live,  and  Brahminical  persecutions  exterminated  it, 
and  a pillar  alone  is  left  to  tell  the  story,  which  the 
Brahmins  claim  was  the  walking  stick  of  one  of  their 
gods.  The  city  is  some  distance  away  from  the  fort 
and  has  a few  noted  ancient  objects,  which  may 
interest  the  reader.  A city  in  India  would  not  be 
much  without  its  Jumma  Musjid,  and  Allahabad 
has  a structure  which  all  Moghuls  were  proud 
to  name.  It  is  now  only  a dishonored  and  silent 

witness  to  the  faith  of  departed  ages.  It  was  a 
massive  creation,  more  impressive  for  its  magnitude 
than  in  its  detail.  It  has  in  the  eyes  of  Mohamme- 
dans come  to  a level  with  the  sty,  for  in  it,  during 
the  mutiny,  the  English  soldiers  ate  their  rations  of 
salted  hog  beneath  its  lofty  dome.  And  this  only 
shows  one  side  of  the  paradoxical  character  of  the 
natives,  who  are  forever  in  religion  at  antipodes.  The 
Mussulman  abhors  hogs.  The  Brahmin  adores  and 
worships  them. 

It  is  not  more  than  three  hundred  yards  to  another 
temple  of  considerable  pretensions,  where  the  Hindus 
are  bowing  down  to  the  image  of  the  sacred  hogBavaha, 
which  is  the  second  incarnation  of  Vishnu,  who  with 
hoggish  snout  rooted  the  world  up  out  of  the  mud 


419 


froiri  the  bottom  of  the  sea,  for  which  service  he  is 
greatly  adored,  and  gifts  of  grace  roll  in  upon  him  in 
the  form  of  potatoes,  mangoes  and  rice ; women  kiss  his 
snout  and  sprinkle  it  with  holy  water  brought  from 
the  Ganges,  and  hang  garlands  of  choicest  and  most 
fragrant  flowers  over  his  sacred  head  and  ears. 

An  Eastern  market  place  is  always  a wonder  to  the 
American.  There  he  will  see  nearly  all  the  castes  of 
India  in  their  varied  costumes  and  varied  no  cos- 
tumeSy  hear  the  strange  cries  and  observe  the  mov- 
ing partition  of  ages — caste,  which  forever  separates 
them  from  each  other.  They  are  the  noisiest  crea^ 
tures  on  the  earth ; their  tongues  are  double  geared, 
•and  they  are  probably  lying  as  fast  as  they  can  speak. 
The  purchasers  are  dickering  with  the  hucksters  be- 
neath wide-spread  umbrellas,  serving  the  purpose  of 
awnings,  and  supported  by  bamboo  sticks.  The  bodies 
of  some  of  the  women  are  tattooed  in  the  colors  and 
shapes  of  fruit  and  flowers ; some  having  the  likeness  of 
their  stock  in  trade  punctured  into  their  skins — an  im- 
position made  on  them  in  helpless  babyhood.  Babies 
are,  too,  objects  of  wonder.  Their  eyes  are  as  black  as 
polished  jet,  and  they  are  usually  naked,  cunning  and 
mirthful,  getting  the  best  out  of  life — riding  on  their 
mother’s  heads,  straddling  her  shoulders  and  neck, 
bound  to  her  back,  or  on  her  haunches,  or  in  a basket 
swung  to  the  back.  Sometimes  they  are  mad  and 
fighting  the  maternal  back,  pulling  her  hair  and  ears, 
©r  kicking  vigorously  against  her  back  or  side. 

These  markets  are  frequented  by  the  missionaries, 
who  preach  or  wrangle  with  their  foes,  according  to 
circumstances.  We  witnessed  a tussle  of  this  kind 
with  two  young  missionaries,  one  a native.  They 
usually  mount  a block  or  box,  perhaps  a perma- 


420 


nent  stand ; sometimes  they  begin  by  singing  a gos- 
pel hymn,  sometimes  they  carry  about  a portable 
organ,  which  rarely  fails  to  attract  a crowd  who 
listen  often  with  marked  attention,  but  at  times  do 
little  else  than  harrass  the  missionary.  The  Moham- 
medans are  the  worst,  the  most  quarrelsome  and  inso- 
lent, and  more  troublesome,  because  they  know  more 
about  the  history  of  redemption.  This  afternoon  the 
young  missionaries  had  to  fight  both.  Their  opponents 
began  in  the  most  devout  and  res})ectful  manner,  desir 
ing  only  information,  but  w'ound  up  in  a brawl.  The 
pet  question  is  an  assault  on  Christ’s  vicarious  sacrifice, 
they  wanting  to  know  by  whom  men  were  saved  before 
he  came.  But  while  Mohammedans  are  the  most  con- 
tentious, they  are  often  most  docile,  sincere  and  respect- 
ful inquirers.  The  Brahmins  are  subtle,  shallow  and 
pretentious,  and  know  nothing  of  salvation  as  revealed 
in  the  Scriptures,  except  as  they  have  learned  it  from 
the  missionaries,  though  there  are  exceptional  cases. 
They  are  always  ready  to  show  themselves  off  to  the  best 
advantage,  and  to  raise  a laugh  on  the  missionaries, 
which  is  regarded  as  a great  triumph.  But  through 
it  all  the  truth  gets  among  the  people,  and  while  it 
does  not  turn  them  often  into  new  afiiliations,  it  modi- 
fies their  opinions  of  old  ones,  so  the  leaven  is  working 
slowly  but  perceptibly  through  all  India.  The  fight 
was  going  on  sharply  w^hen  the  stand  was  reached, 
and  Rev.  Mr.  Lucas,  being  more  skilled,  came  to 
the  assistance  of  the  young  men,  and  soon  silenced 
out  of  the  Scriptures  the  Mohammedans,  Ayho  have  a 
reverence  for  them,  though  mixed  by  more  “ pure  cussed- 
ness” than  was  ever  known  in  human  form.  The  Hin- 
dus are  less  contentious,  and  care  less  w^hat  they  believe 
themselves,  or  what  is  believed  by  others. 


421 


In  a garden  is  a deep  well,  with  a passage,  down  a long 
flight  of  stone  steps,  leading  to  tbe  water.  It  is  a sacred 
place,  as  they  believe,  watched  over  by  some  of  their  dei- 
ties. When  the  garrison  during  the  mutiny  was  holding 
the  fort  against  the  fiendish  rebels,  one  of  their  leaders 
thought  he  would  show  his  faith  in  the  divine  power 
of  the  goods  by  sitting  on  the  well’s  mouth,  to  incite  the 
people  to  confidence  in  their  ability  to  slaughter  the 
English.  He  had  a magic  carpet  spread  out  for  him- 
self on  which  to  luxuriate  in  divine  favor ; but  a few 
well  directed  shots  from  English  batteries  made 
him  think  the  well  itself  was  on  fire.  He  moved  his 
well  cover  from  off  his  magic  rug  as  fast  as  his  spindle 
shanks  could  carry  him,  and  he  was  not  known  after- 
ward to  try  to  stop  any  more  wells  by  that  part  of  his 
body. 

Another  monument  showing  that  the  old  Moghuls 
were  not  rulers  without  virtue  or  humanity  is  the 
Serai  and  gardens.  The  Serai  was  built  by  the  Em- 
peror Akbar  as  a Khan  -to  accommodate  travellers, 
serving  in  its  time  something  the  purpose  of  the 
present  English  Dak  bungalow.  Some  of  these  Em- 
perors had  a benevolence  that  would  make  them 
famous  in  our  philanthropic  age.  Firoz  Shah, 
who  reigned  from  1353  for  thirty-five  years,  was  a 
philanthropist.  He  built  for  public  comfort  one  hun- 
dred caravansaries,  forty  mosques,  thirty  colleges,  five 
irrigating  canals,  thirty  great  reservoirs  for  the  same 
purpose,  one  hundred  baths  for  the  public  use,  one 
hundred  and  fifty  bridges  and  one  hundred  hos- 
pitals, and  these  were  all  made  free  by  endowment 
of  grants  of  land.  This  Emperor  so  cared  for  the  poor 
that,  lest  they  might  be  neglected,  he  erected  a great 
bell  in  the  open  about  his  palace,  and  so  covered  from 


422 


public  observation,  that  the  oppressed  poor  could 
come  and  ring  it,  to  which  he  answered  in  person 
that  he  might  hear  their  wrongs  and  right  them  by 
royal  edict  and  punishment.  He  also  built  a tomb 
for  his  cruel  predecessor,  who  had  hunted  and  slain 
his  subjects.  He  sought  out  the  families  injured  by 
his  atrocities,  restored  their  losses  as  far  as  possible, 
and  when  they  were  satisfied  they  voluntarily  signed 
a pardon  of  the  old  bloody  tyrant,  which  he  sealed 
in  a strong-box  and  placed  beside  the  bones  of  the 
dead  in  his  tomb  to  help  him  out  in  the  day  of  judg- 
ment. 

A magnificent  gateway  of  that  matchless  Saracenic 
architecture  which  compels  admiration  for  the  genius 
of  two  centuries  and  a half  ago  leads  from  the  Serai 
to  the  garden.  It  is  about  sixty  feet  high  and  about 
as  wide,  with  a high  arched  passage  through  the  cen- 
tre, with  apartments  on  either  side.  This  and  its 
surroundings  were  planned  and  built  by  the  great 
Moghuls — monuments  to  their  taste  and  innate  love 
of  the  beautiful.  The  gate  is  built  of  that  enduring 
wood,  now  the  wealth  and  glory  of  Burmah,  the  teak, 
as  lasting  as  our  live  oak  and  as  beautiful  in  color 
as  mahogany.  It  was  built  and  swung  more  than 
two  hundred  and  fifty  years  ago.  Time  and  the 
elements  have  assailed  it  only  to  be  discomfited.  The 
sun  has  blistered  it  and  the  winds  have  broken  their 
violence  against  it  in  vain  through  the  ages,  yet  the 
grain  is  not  even  marred,  while  the  gates  are  as  firm 
as  when  hewn  from  the  living  tree.  The  Mohamme- 
dans of  the  past  were  not  only  builders,  but  gardeners. 
The  mosques  or  mausoleums  were  built  for  the  gar- 
dens and  the  gardens  were  created  for  the  mosques, 
and  it  is  rarely  that  one  is  found  without  the  other. 


423 


There  are  here  three  stone  mausoleums  two  to 
three  centuries  old,  massive  and  lofty,  with  walls 
panelled  and  covered  with  records  of  the  virtues  of 
famous  princesses.  These  tombs  stand  on  stone  terraces 
fifteen  feet  hign,  and  are  forty  feet  square.  They  are 
crowned  with  marble  domes  glistening  white,  whose 
subdued  crystals  sparkle  in  the  sun.  Here  the  name 
and  fame  of  the  Begum  of  Jehanjir  are  perpetu- 
ated. The  work  is  fine  for  any  age,  and  displays 
the  cunning  of  art  and  artists  of  the  period  when 
Mohammedanism  ruled  supreme  in  India.  But  they 
have  come  down  to  times  and  men  who  care  little  for 
the  beautiful  in  art  and  less  for  dead  greatness.  John 
Bull  believes  implicitly  that  a living  dog  is  better 
than  a dead  lion,  and  shows  his  contempt  for  the  lat- 
ter by  turning  his  tombs  into  billiard  rooms,  so  he 
sends  his  billiard  balls  back  and  forward,  clicking 
their  secularities  where  the  great  Moghuls  prayed  and 
rehearsed  the  virtues  of  defunct  princesses. 

CHAPTER  XXXIX. 

FAIRS  AND  FAKIRS  AT  ALLAHABAD. 

The  religious,  condition  of  Allahabad  is  the  ques- 
tion of  the  present.  The  past  is  a subject  of 
review,  and  some  idea  will  be  gained  by  the  contrasts. 
Buddhism  has  long  since  perished  as  an  organization, 
and  its  persecuting  survivor,  Brahminism,  is  power- 
less ; nothing  but  its  malignities  live.  It  has  a bout  ceased 
trying  to  do  good.  It  is  impotent  even  if  it  had  the 
purpose.  Kemnants  of  its  mighty  past  are  to  be  seen. 
On  the  way  to  the  junction  of  the  sacred  rivers  is  one 
of  the  objects  of  Hindu  veneration,  the  bones  and 


424 


haggard  looks  of  a holy  man,  who  has  been  sitting 
and  lying  on  a stone  for  sixty  years.  He  appears  ta 
be  a hundred  years  old,  at  least — a genuine  speci- 
men of  the  fakir.  He  has  sat  there  dav  and  night  in 
burning  sun  and  chilly  dews,  in  monsoons  and  showers^ 
He  has  endured  all  in  stolid  composure.  The  stone  on 
which  he  sits  is  a boulder  about  two  feet  high  and 
three  or  four  feet  long.  He  has  polished  its  top  surface, 
as  smooth  as  glass,  with  his  bare  skin  rubbing  it  for  sixty 
years.  If  his  seat  were  as  smooth  as  the  stone  on  which 
he  sits  the  life  problem  would  be  how  tc  hold  on. 
His  head  and  face  are  wrinkled  and  grooved,  as  if  the 
elements  had  worn  them  by  their  everlasting  frictions. 
His  hair  has  not  felt  a comb  in  sixty  years,  never  since 
ho  started  out  to  be  holy,  it  it  ever  did  before.  He 
bathed  as  long  as  he  could  every  day  in  the  Ganges,  and 
since  he  has  become  toe  feeble  to  go  himself  he  has  been 
carried,  or  the  water  has  been  poured  on  him.  He  has 
a long  beard  which  would  be  white  if  it  were  introduced 
to  soap  and  water.  He  k now  very  feeble,  his  bones 
are  covered  by  a tough,  leathery  skin,  but  their 
shapes  assert  themselves  through  it.  He  is  a dis- 
gusting, dirty,  old  skeleton,  playing  the  “Iraud” 
on  every  thing  but  on  the  stone  where  he  sits.  Now 
that  he  is  old,  skinny  and  dirty,  he  is  greatly  adored, 
and  is  fed  and  watched,  not  without  hope  that 
either  he  or  the  stone  will  give  out,  to  afford  an 
opportunity  for  some  other  to  take  his  place.  He  has 
two  regular  attendants  who  collect  money  from  all 
who  pass  by,  and  are  making  a good  thing  oi‘  it. 
They  are  sleek  and  well  fed,  but  the  old  man  eats 
very  little,  hardly  enough  to  keep  him  alive , it  would 
not,  if  he  moved  about.  It  is  pitiful  to  see  the  suffer- 
ings which  a man  will  endure  to  save  his  soul,  and  how 


425 


he  will  feed  his  body  to  the  elements  to  lighten  the 
burden  of  sin,  while  he  spurns  salvation  as  a gift  and 
tries  to  work  it  out  in  self-maceration.  , 

On  the  way  to  the  valley  between  the  rivers  and  on 
the  side  of  the  hill  which  is  crowned  by  the  fakir  is 
a sepulchre-like  place  hewn  from  the  rock,  into  which 
entrance  is  made  by  a door  and  steps.  Here  lies  a 
gigantic  form,  painted  red,  the  idol  known  as  the  mon- 
key god,  horrible  looking,  prodigious  in  its  proportions, 
and  in  conception  a cross  between  the  traditional  devil, 
man  and  beast.  It  shows  the  fullest  developments  of  the 
worst  passions  of  each,  a creation  of  an  inverted  ani- 
mal ized  genius.  For  some  it  has  a strange  fascina- 
tion, as  being  a conceit  in  which  no  semblance  of  good 
appears. 

The  tongue  of  land  between  the  rivers  is  at  the  first  of 
January  of  each  year  the  theatre  of  strange  movements. 
It  is  a time  of  a religious  feast,  frequented  often  by  more 
than  one  hundred  thousand  people.  It  is  the  annual 
Mela.  These  multitudes  come  in  every  possible  way. 
Royalty  comes  on  elephants,  bringing  their  peculiar 
furnishings  with  them  and  gorgeous  tents ; others  come 
on  camels  with  the  necessary  outfit  for  a month’s  stay ; 
others  come  in  bullock-carts  and  live  in  them  or  in 
booths.  It  is  a weird  sight ; the  great  multitudes  with 
puggeried  heads  moving  about,  some  in  the  gayest 
colors,  some  in  snowy  white,  some  without  even  a 
streamer  to  float  from  their  meagre  bodies.  The 
noises  are  as  confounding;  the  voices  of  men  in  laugh- 
, ter,  in  prayer,  in  quarrels  and  revels;  the  blowing  of 
elephants,  the  gutturals  of  the  camels  with  curled  lips; 
the  braying  and  squealing  of  asses,  the  lowing  of  cattle, 
the  baying  of  dogs,  the  cawing  of  crows,  and  last  and 
least,  and  yet  not  least,  the  crying  of  twenty  thousand 


\ 


426 


children  and  the  yelling  and  screaming  of  multitudi- 
nous wives. 

These  great  crowds  come  from  all  accessible  points 
of^ the  compass.  The  primal  object  is  worship  in  the 
form  of  bathing  at  the  junction  of  the  sacred  rivers 
every  morning,  and  as  often  through  the  day  as  in- 
clination and  temperature  may  incline  them.  It  is  a 
vision  that  does  not  often  fall  to  the  lot  of  man  to  see 
— fifty  thousand  specimens  of  naked  humanity  in  the 
river  at  once.  There  is  nothing  in  our  country  to 
suggest  it  unless  it  may  be  in  the  vulgarities  and  inde- 
cencies of  men  and  women  in  promiscuous  bathing 
on  the  Atlantic  Coast  in  costumes  as  suggestive  of 
indecency  as  nudity  itself,  women  coquetting  with  men 
and  receiving  their  attentions,  digging  their  toes  in 
the  sand  or  sprawling  about  in  the  sun.  Dawdling 
about  in  an  undress  is  beneath  the  morals  of  the  Mela 
at  the  junction  of  the  Ganges  and  Jumna. 

The  universal  wash  is  not  a means  of  moral  eleva- 
tion anywhere.  The  removal  of  dead  cuticle  is  not  a 
means  of  improving  the  soul  in  either  the  East  or 
West.  One  of  the  peculiarities  of  this  great  corporate 
wash  is  the  shearing  of  the  ‘‘lambs,”  together  with  a con- 
siderable number  that  might  be'called  “goats.”  It  is 
the  great  universal  shearing — all  heads  are  clipped 
of  fleece  and  its  contents.  The  clip  of  one  hundred 
thousand  bushy-heads,  and  perhaps  a half  million 
during  the  fair,  is  something,  to  those  fond  of  magni- 
tudes, worth  considering.  The  capillary  harvests  lie 
like  swathes  all  over  the  holy  ground,  sometimes  knee 
deep.  In  no  spot  on  the  earth  is  the  product  of  the 
dome  and  seat  of  thought  so  apparent.  Knee  deep  in 
head- wealth  is  enough  to  abash  the  great  West,  where 
there  often  is  such  dearth  of  this  product  and  such 


427 


glistening  want  of  the  cast-off  luxury  of  the  Ganges. 
It  is  a productive  product,  so  that  the  only  satety  to 
an  European,  squeamish  about  the  outer  companion- 
ships of  his  thoughts,  would  be  to  ride  through  it  on 
a camelopard  with  a docked  tail  and  tarred  legs. 

These  reKgious  feasts  are  also  arranged  to  conserve 
both  celestial  and  terrestrial  interests.  The  traffic 
of  the  Empire  is  pften  represented  here--:-buying  and 
selling,  trading  on  the  present  and  ^‘futures,”  peddlers 
o’f  every  kind,  dealers  in  all  sorts  of  trinkets,  hucksters, 
food-dealers,  snake-charmers,  rum-sellers,  dancers, 
musicians  and  growlers.  But  this  great  concourse  does 
more  for  Christianity  than  for  Hinduism  or  Moham- 
medanism. It  is  a grand  opportunity  for  the  spread 
of  the  gospel.  It  has  the  advantages  of  the  gathering 
at  Pentecost.  The  missionaries  are  busy;  for  it  is 
their  seed  time,  and  they  work  their  opportunities  to 
the  best  of  their  abilities.  Preaching,  discussing,  in- 
structing, distributing  Christian  literature,  engag- 
ing attention,  placating  prejudices,  attracting  interest 
by  singing  gospel  hyrtms  accompanied  by  portable 
organs,  or  such  other  instruments  as  they  can  com- 
mand, and  by  magic  lantern  exhibitions,  of  which  the 
natives  are  passionately  fond.  The  Mohammedans, 
who  are  fairly  versed  in  the  Old  Testament  Scrip- 
tures, sit  by  the  hour  to  see  pictures  of  Bible  scenes 
and  events,  especially  of  the  patriarchs,  of  whom  they 
believe  themselves  to  be  the  improved  successors.  The 
gospel  is  preached  with  force,  pathos  and  power. 
Many  become  deeply  interested ; some  carry  convic- 
tions in  their  hearts  which  last  through  life  and  modify 
both  thoughts  and  acts.  The  gospel  is  here  winged 
and  borne  upon  the  breath  of  men  by  the  Spirit  of 
the  Almighty,  and  is  establishing  a kingdom  without 


428 


observation,  which  will  come  forth  with  power  some- 
time to  the  surprise  of  the  world. 

These  truths,  from  the  lips  of  the  missionaries,  often 
but  a glimmer  of  something  better  than  the  people  have 
known,  but  have  longed  for,  are  carried  into  solita,ry 
^ homes.  There  they  burn  like  an  unsteady  flame, 
but  it  is  bright,  and  whole  neighborhoods  are  afiected 
by  it  and  transformed  by  a glint  of  truth  divine. 
There  will  be  a gathering  of  these  straggling  rays  yet 
into  the  noontide  of  Christian  day.  The  missionaries 
have  adopted  the  same  popular  idea  and  have  organ- 
ized a Mela  for  Christ.  The  missionaries  of  the  Pres- 
byterian Board  of  Foreign  Missions  in  Allahabad  and 
surrounding  stations  have  held  such  a feast,  which  was 
attended  by  native  Christians  of  every  denomination. 
It  was  observed  with  religious  services,  as  in  the 
native  Melas,  with  the  exception  that  all  business 
matters  were  excluded.  It  aroused  public  attention 
and  led  to  favorable  comment  as  a movement  that 
might  be  fraught  with  good.  It  was  concluded  with 
a feast  in  native  style.  It  was  in  great  contrast 
with  the  confused  and  idolatrous  proceedings  at  the 
common  Melas,  at  one  of  which  lately  several 
hundreds  fakirs,  or  religious  mendicants,  formed  a 
long  public  procession,  these  men  being  shamelessly 
indecent,  in  the  entire  absence  of  their  usually  scant 
clothing,  and  yet  were  held  in  high  honor  by  great 
multitudes  of  heathen  spectators. 

India  can  never  rise  while  this  horde^  of  vultures 
feeds  at  her  heart  and  debauches  her  conscience  as  to 
lingering  sense  of  decency.  They  are  as  disgusting  in 
personal  habits  as  hyenas.  Their  sanctity  is  in  dirt. 
Their  morals  suffer  in  comparison  with  the  beasts. 
They  are  without  honor,  without  affection,  without 


429 


truthfulness,  without  shame,  without  mercy,  and  with- 
out the  commonest  instincts  of  humanity.  They  are 
vitalized  scourges,  in  comparison  with  whom  the 
national  cholera  is  to  be  preferred. 

We  were  conducted  by  the  Rev.  Dr.  Lucas  to  the 
mansion  of  the  wealthiest  Hindu  of  Allahabad.  His 
residence  was  somewhat  pretentious,  and  was  entered, 
as  usual,  through  a court,  where  the  porters  generally 
have  to  be  aroused  from  their  attitudes,  which  are 
ordinarily  longitudinal;  or,  if  this  is  departed  from, 
there  is  an  acute  angle  formed  between  legs  and  body 
as  they  sit  on  their  heels  with  arms  resting  on 
the  knees.  There  was  a display  of  marble  pavement 
unwashed.  The  moneyed  prince  sat  in  the  midst  of 
careless  confusion,  the  feW  articles  of  furniture  be- 
ing in  disorder.  He  received  Mr.  Lucas  with 
cordiality,  and  the  writer  with  kindness  for  his  sake, 
conversing  freely  and  intelligently,  and  was  evidently 
a man  of  parts.  There  was  no  appearance  of  wealth, 
but  of  the  ability  to  acquire  it  there  was  evidently  no 
deficiency.  He  spoke  understandingly  of  the  British 
government  and  what  its  rule  had  done  for  the  country, 
saying  that  before  it  had  held  sway  in  the  Punjab  if  he 
had  crossed  a vacant  square  in  front  of  his  house  with 
a hundred  rupees  he  would  have  been  robbed,  if  not 
killed.  “ Now,”  said  he,  “ I can  go  where  I please 
with  ten  thousand,  unguarded  if  necessary.”  “The 
British  government,”  he  continued,  “ is  a great  blessing 
to  men  of  property  in  India,  and  those  who  desire  its 
overthrow  are  usually  those  who  have  nothing  to  lose 
in  revolutions  and  the  possibility  of  some  gain  in 
the  lawlessness  that  would  succeed.”  To  the  remark 
that  the  government  was  in  the  main  just  and  equita- 
ble, and  promoted  honesty  and  prosperity,  a ready 
and  hearty  assent  was  given. 


430 


During  the  conversation  he  beckoned  to  one  of  hi» 
servants,  and  spoke  to  him  in  the  native  language, 
who  disappeared  for  a time,  and  returning  brought 
each  of  the  guests  a handful  of  cardamom  seeds,  for 
what  purpose  we  never  could  divine.  They  were  na 
doubt  evidences  of  hospitality,  and  were  received  as 
such,  though  no  particular  fondness  for  them  was 
developed.  They  were  deposited  in  the  coat-tail 
pockets,  which  ever  served  us  in  emergencies  in  dis* 
posing  of  disagreeable  articles  of  food,  so  as  not  to 
offend  the  givers. 

As  we  took  leave  his  manner  became  gracious,  per- 
haps to  speed  the  parting  guest.  It  is  hard  to  do 
justice  to  the  motives  and  habits  of  men  only  separ- 
ated  by  the  thin  partition  of  dialects,  but  which 
might  as  well  be  walls  of  stone.  As  the  thresh- 
old was  passed  the  heaven  itself  showed  its  hos- 
pitalities in  a profusion  of  colored  rays  shot  across 
a western  horizon.  The  sun  was  going  into  his  cham- 
ber of  amber,  of  purple  and  gold,  and  the  high  priests 
in  the  temple  not  made  with  hands  were  lighting  the 
firmament  with  their  altar  fires,  while  the  reflections 
of  the  last  fays  of  the  sun-setting  were  gleaming  from 
the  heads  of  the  Himalayas,  clothed  in  virgin  white- 
ness. 


CHAPTER  XL. 


MISSION  WORK  IN  ALLAHABAD. 

HE  mission  work  in  Allahabad  extends  through 


half  a century,  and  its  progress  has  been 
amidst  ups  and  downs,  and  is  now  at  its  highest 
average.  Since  the  beginning  of  this  work  valu- 
able auxiliaries  have  come  to  its  help.  Railways 
are  missionaries,  not  constructively,  but  destruc- 
tively. The  chief  advantage  is  their  innovation 
upon  the  habits  of  communities.  Any  movement 
which  turns  the  paths  on  which  men  have  trav- 
elled for  centuries  one  hundred  feet  to  one  side 
or  the  other  is  of  moral  advantage.  The  best  fore- 
runners to  the  progress  of  the  gospel  are  habit  breakers 
— caste  smashers.  The  railways  of  India  in  the  begin- 
ning were  dreaded  and  boycotted,  but  gradually  the 
necessities  created  by  them  became  the  necessities  of  the 
communities.  Familiarity  with  these  innovations  has 
had  much  to  do  with  the  changed  sentiment.  Natives 
in  the  employ  of  the  companies  have  had  a favorable 
influence.  The  wonderful  cheapness  of  travel  in  the 
cars  suits  the  natives,  and  the  love  of  change,  which 
is  fast  becoming  a passion,  is  carrying  the  people  to 
and  fro,  and  knowledge  is  increasing.  Railroad  travel 
is  constantly  crowding  out  caste,  breaking  it,  and  turn- 
ing society  upside  down,  all  to  the  ultimate  advantage 
of  Christianity. 

Allahabad  is  growing  young  by  its  railway  facili- 
ties, and  will  soon  be  the  most  modern  and  European 


431 


432 


city  in  India.  The  sanctity  of  age  is  losing  its  hold 
and  the  thought  has  at  last  struggled  into  the  public 
mind  that  there  are  advantages  in  new  things  worth 
considering  and  adopting.  An  incident  will  illustrate 
this.  If  a woman  of  higher  caste,  either  purposely  or 
accidentally,  uncovers  her  head  before  strangers  she  not 
only  disgraces  herself,  but  her  husband.  An  English- 
man with  an  opera-glass  was  surveying  the  prospect 
when,  by  accident,  a woman  was  seen  under  a tree 
without  her  veil,  feeling  that  she  was  secure  beyond 
the  range  of  vision,  but  had  taken  no  account  of 
the  magnifying  power  of  English  lenses.  Her  ex- 
posure was  perceived  and  unutterable  woe  was  the 
result.  The  woman  fell  prostrate  at  her  husband’s 
feet,  hiding  her  head  in  shame,  and  the  man,  heart- 
broken, rushed  into  the  presence  of  the  Englishman, 
telling  him  that  he  was  forever  dishonored.  Th,e 
Englishman  called  him  that  peculiar  kind  of  fool 
which  we  need  not  repeat,  and  told  him  to  shut  his 
mouth  and  nobody  would  know  any  thing  about  it, 
adding  a valedictory  from  the  end  of  his  boot,  which 
woke  in  the  mind  of  the  aggrieved  the  thought 
that  neither  he  nor  his  wife  could  be  disgraced  by 
what  they  could  not  help,  unless  they  disgraced  them- 
selves by  telling  it,  and  this  was  the  last  of  it.  So  in 
railways,  mishaps  are  constantly  occurring  to  caste 
notions.  A lurch  of  the  car  will  jostle  three  or  four 
castes  together,  and  a collision  put  high  and  low 
in  a common  heap. 

The  light  of  a beautiful  morning  had  dawned  and  the 
dews  were  dropping  from  the  lustrous  leaves  as  the 
journey  was  made  from  the  railway  station  to  the 
historic  compound  of  the  Presbyterian  Board  of  For- 
eign Missions.  The  hospitalities  of  the  Rev.  Hr. 


433 


Lucas  were  extended,  and  the  dream  of  years  was 
realized  of  which  so  much  had  been  heard  in  monthly 
concerts  duriug  childhood.  It  is  a lovely  spot ; a great 
river  sweeps  silently  by,  the  sun  covering  its  surface  with 
silver  sheens,  its  banks  marked  by  stately  palms,  tossing 
their  proud  heads  to  the  languid  zephyrs.  One  real- 
izes the  majesty  of  this  wonderful  river  coming  down 
alike  out  of  cloud  and  mountains  when  he  reflects  that 
it  has  not  been  diminished  in  volume  or  velocity 
since  the  day  when  man  was  created.  The  mission 
house  was  a restful  place  in  its  own  elements,  in  its 
associations  and  in  the  repose  it  gave  after  a night’s 
journey. 

The  ground  owned  by  our  Church  is  very  valuable. 
It  is  the  best  site  for  beauty,  health  and  general  capa- 
ciousness in  the  country.  The  Church  may  thank  a 
coterie  of  fools  for  this  valuable  investment.  It  be- 
longed to  the  British  government.  The  buildings 
cost  a large  amount  of  money,  but  an  upstart  engineer 
informed  the  authorities  that  in  a few  years  the  whole 
of  it  would  be  in  the  river  or  deposited  on  the  other 
side,  or  might  turn  up  a new  island  in  the  heart  of  the 
river,  and  the  credulous  authorities  had  faith  in  his 
guesses,  and  a new  site  was  selected  for  the  public  oflices. 
The  preachers  were  foresighted  in  respect  to  worldly 
afiairs  for  once,  and  to  some  purpose.  They  made  use 
of  their  observation  of  the  peculiarities  of  the  Ganges 
and  believed  more  in  common  sense  than  pretentious 
science,  and  purchased  the  entire  premises  for  two 
thousand  dollars.  It  is  now  worth  at  least  fifty  thou- 
sand dollars.  This  may  stand  as  a mitigation  to  the 
traditional  idea  that  ministers  are  business  numskulls. 
It  is  historic  ground  in  every  part,  and  it  will  hold  a cen- 
tral place  in  the  history  of  redemption  in  India.  This 
mission  was  founded  in  1836. 


434 


As  Dr.  J.  C.  Lowrie  was  leaving  India  on  account  of 
fast  failing  health,  he  was  met  at  Calcutta  by  incoming 
laborers  on  their  way  to  Lodiana — Messrs.  John  New- 
ton and  James  Wilson  McEwan.  The  latter  located 
at  Allahabad,  which  at  that  time  was  greatly  isolated, 
but  the  choice  was  no  doubt  by  divine  direction.  The 
mission  has  held  on  its  way  ever  since  through  vicissi- 
tudes. It  has  withstood  persecutions;  its  property  has 
been  destroyed,  and  its  missionaries,  at  one  time  or  an- 
other, have  been  crowned  in  martyrdom.  The  church 
in  this  compound  has  had  a wonderful  history.  Those 
who  have  preached  and  listened  are  passing  from  the 
memories  of  men,  but  their  teachings  and  sufferings, 
their  prayers  and  tears,  have  entered  other  personali- 
ties, who  are  waging  the  contest  of  the  present.  The 
most  interesting  links  with  the  past  are  the  native 
ministers  standing  in  their  lot,  their  heads  white  with 
years,  but  their  zeal,  like  the  fire  in  the  “ Pilgrim’s 
Progress,”  sustained  by  an  unseen  hand  ever  replen- 
ishing the  flames  with  oil. 

One  of  the  pleasing  surprises  in  mission  work 
greeted  our  coming.  When  a student  in  Danville, 
Ky.,  we  had  the  pleasure  of  the  friendship  of  an 
estimable  family.  Of  the  children,  a young  boy  was 
the  most  promising.  He  was  seen  in  his  father’s  store, 
a favorite  among  the  customers.  He  was  taught  the 
Shorter  Catechism,  for  his  parents  were  of  Scotch- 
Irish  descent.  That  boy,  grown  into  Christian  man- 
hood, is  the  missionary  in  charge  at  this  Jumna 
mission,  and  one  of  the  ablest  and  most  useful  of  the 
force  in  India.  What  marvels  hath  grace  wrought  I 
Dr.  Lucas  is  a preacher,  teacher,  writer  and  man-of- 
affairs,  with  an  intrepid  spirit  in  all  the  movements 
toward  good. 


435 


Near  the  homestead  occupied  by  so  many  of  Christ’s 
nobility  is  the  school-house  for  boys,  in  which  the 
lamented  Dr.  Alexander  Hodge  lived’  while  a mission- 
ary at  this  station.  Though  he  was  still  living  when 
we  were  there,  the  place  had  a marvellous  interest  in 
the  fact  that  the  inspiration  of  his  life,  which  appeared 
in  his  wonderful  practical  knowledge  of  theology  and 
which  added  to  its  profundity  the  charm  of  the  sermon 
and  the  poetry  of  a Christian  life,  was  born  in  India 
amid  its  natural  glories  and  its  unspeakable  depravi- 
ties, and  in  the  all  conquering  faith  that  the  gospel  of 
Christ  will  yet  bring  all  into  his  own  image.  This 
school  is  prosperous.  It  was  under  the  tuition  of  the 
Rev.  Henry  Forman,  a young  man  of  remarkable 
abilities  and  attainments.  Born  to  the  work,  he 
brought  not  only  the  enthusiasm  of  his  young  man- 
hood to  his  profession,  but  the  constraining  power  of 
the  love  of  Christ.  He  appreciated  the  heritage  of 
service  in  life  and  death,  to  Christ’s  cause  rendered 
by  the  noble  and  the  holy  gone  before.  The  school 
is  a model  in  propriety  and  accurate  scholarship. 
The  Eaglish  would  have  been  creditable  in  our  own 
country.  On  the  blackboard,  in  a language  that 
every  nationality  can  read,  were  the  signs  of  their 
progress  in  mathematics.  These  young  men  desired 
to  hear  from  far-away  America,  the  land  ot  golden 
fancies,  the  goal  of  the  ambition  of  Oriental  youth, 
the  ideal  paradise  for  the  poor  and  oppressed  across 
the  seas,  just  under  the  propitious  rays  of  the  sunsetting. 
This  honor  was  appreciated  and  the  desired  service 
rendered  to  the  best  ability,  and  what  was  a greater 
surprise,  we  found  that  these  dark-eyed  Orientals  can 
perceive  a hit,  or  the  glimmer  of  mirthfulness,  just  as 
quickly  as  the  more  favored  sons  of  the  happiest  coun- 
try under  the  skies. 


436 


Since  this  delightful  visit,  Rev.  Mr.  Forman,  who  is  a 
son  of  the  noted  missionary  at  Lahore,  has  been  assigned 
to  the  place  of  teacher  of  theology  at  Saharanpur,  in  the 
same  institution  where  the  well-known  and  esteemed 
Dr.  Wherry  labors  when  he  is  in  India.  There  is  a 
female  seminary  with  commodious,  and  for  the  country, 
luxurious  accommodations,  an  honor  to  the  women  of 
the  Boa»^d  of  the  North-west,  by  whose  diligence  it  has 
been  prepared  for  its  noblest  mission,  woman’s  work 
for  woman.  There  are  connected  in  some  way  with 
this  compound,  homes  for  native  Christians,  a blessed 
provision  of  good  sense  and  liberality,  for  one  of  the 
greatest  hindrances  to  missionary  work  is  the  awful 
boycotting  of  Christians.  They  are  thrust  through 
the  door  of  want  into  hopeless  starvation. 

Other  homes  were  visited,  one  belonging  to  an 
elder,  a man  of  parts  and  prominence  in  the  church 
and  out  of  it,  who,  by  his  purity  of  life,  has  not 
only  silenced  cavillers,  but  has  commanded  respect 
despite  all  hostility.  He  is  an  eminent  lawyer, 
and  has  a home  after  the  Christian  ideal,  just 
what  can  always  be  predicted  of  those  born  of  God. 
His  wife  was  a ladylike  person,  who  presided  in  her 
home  with  modest  dignity.  The  furniture  was  in 
European  style,  which  is  as  much  a marvel  among 
the  natives  as  is  a Christian.  In  the  list  of  household 
furnishings  we  noticed  the  Bible  in  an  honored  plac®, 
in  reverent  state,  as  it  ought  to  have  been,  for  it  had 
lifted  this  family  from  the  dunghill  and  had  set  them 
with  princes. 

We  were  in  another  home  where  poverty  dwelt,  not 
amidst  meanness,  but  amidst  purity  and  gentility ; for 
where  Christ  is  worshipped  poverty  is  itself  sanctified 
and  takes  on  a saintliness  like  the  Master’s.  The  house 


437 


was  built  of  mud,  which  the  periodical  rains  called  mon- 
soons, which  are  deluges,  wash  away  so  largely  that  a 
man  would  have  to  search  for  a part  of  both  home 
and  real  estate  in  the  rivers  Jumna  or  Ganges. 
These  poor  Christians,  without  an  article  of  furniture 
that  an  American  or  European  would  recognize,  were 
still  in  all  that  makes  up  manhood  or  womanhood 
head  and  shoulders  above  the  highest  caste  about  them ; 
and  still  there  are  Christians  who  do  not  believe  in 
foreign  missions ! 

There  is  nothing  in  connection  with  this  mission 
work  more  pitiful  than  the  home  for  lepers.  The 
disease  is  not  drawn  in  the  Scriptures  a tint  too  highly, 
nor  are  the  colors  too  dark  in  which  its  woes  are 
painted.  The  gates  were  gladly  opened  to  their 
friend,  Mr.  Lucas,  whom  they  love  passionately.  It 
was  the  saddest  sight  we  ever  witnessed.  As  we  entered 
the  news  of  our  coming  brought  into  notice  all  the  mis- 
eries of  the  most  miserable  spot  we  ever  beheld.  There 
were  victims  with  faces  gone  and  eyes  only  pro- 
truding; there  were  men  and  women  from  whose 
limbs  joints  had  dropped  off;  cripples,  blind,  deaf, 
feetless,  handless ; miseries  standing,  lying,  crying 
waiting,  wasting  for  pity  and  help,  seeking  the 
only  earthly  relief  that  could  come  in  telffng  of  their 
pains  and  pangs  to  their  benefactor,  and  a word  of 
pity  from  him  was  like  the  kiss  of  a mother  on  the 
baby’s  burned  fingers.  It  brought  tears  and  sighs 
over  hapless  distress  to  see  its  efforts  to  struggle  after 
its  helper.  Some  were  crawling  on  all  fours,  or  what 
was  left  of  them ; some  blind,  were  groping,  their  poor 
heads  one  way  and  hands  another,  calling  for  recogni- 
tion; some  who  had  sight,  but  were  cripples,  were 
trying  to  lead  the  blind  to  the  only  one  who  had 


438 


cared  enough  for  them  to  provide  for  their  comfort. 
If  they  could  only  kiss  his  hand  it  was  enough. 

Heathenism  has  neither  word,  sympathy  nor  help 
for  them.  Before  the  English  control  lepers  were  buried 
alive.  Heathenism  waves  them  away  by  the  cry  un  dean . 
Only  Jesus  Christ  ever  had  pity,  healing  and  help  for 
lepers.  This  plague  spot  was  in  the  midst  of  sur- 
passing natural  beauty.  The  leprous  spot  was  there, 
but  the  soul  made  clean  dwelt  in  the  decaying  taber- 
nacle, and  what  a glory  could  be  seen  on  the  half- 
consumed  faces  of  those  who  had  found  soul  healing 
and  cleansing  through  his  omnific  word,  “Be  thou 
clean.”  These  poor  creatures  had  been  driven  from 
home,  children  and  friends,  and  had  bidden  fare- 
well to  all  that  could  give  a cheering  ray.  Many 
still  halted  at  the  threshold  of  sovereign  mercy  and 
would  rather  starve  than  come.’  Many  lepers  are 
members  of  our  mission  churches. 

After  the  mission  home-work,  associations  and  his- 
tories on  the  Jumna  had  been  considered,  our  faces 
were  turned  to  another  point  not  so  beautiful,  but  as 
rich  in  its  self-denials,  toils,  hopes  and  victories — the 
Kutra  Mission.  At  present  it  is  under  the  manage 
ment  of  the  Rev.  J.  M.  Alexander,  from  the  neigh- 
borhood of  St.  Clairsville,  Ohio,  and  of  a family  noted 
for  its  sturdy  Presbyterianism  and  piety,  and  from  which 
there  is  always  one  at  least  to  serve  the  Church  in 
the  ministry.  He  is  a scholarly,  able  and  enthusiastic 
laborer,  who  holds  a high  place  in  the  estimation  of 
both  natives  and  Europeans.  The  hospitality  of  this 
home  was  graciously  tendered.  This  is  one  of  the  unmis- 
takable distinctions  of  our  countrymen  in  every  part  of 
the  world.  The  schools  were  visited ; the  scholars  ap- 
peared to  advantage  without  being  coached  for  the 


439 


occasion.  The  pupils  were  studious  and  unusually 
bright  in  all  the  departments.  Mr.  Alexander  is  a 
missionary  of  all  work.  He  can  take  a hand  at  any 
thing  to  be  done,  and  of  course  ever  finds  a place  for 
both  hand  and  head. 

His  work  is  varied,  and  a catalogue  of  his  en- 
gagements would  cover  more  space  than  could  be 
spared.  He  is  a preacher  able  to  cope  with  both 
Brahminism  and  Mohammedanism.  He  preaches  in 
various  parts  of  the  city  and  suburbs  and  has  the  gift 
of  gaining  attention  at  the  native  Melas,  both  heathen 
and  Christian.  He  also  assists  the  native  pastor,  Mr. 
Caleb,  one  of  the  first  and  sturdiest  converts,  whose 
life  has  been  a continual  devotion  to  the  gospel  that 
saved  him.  The  Kutra  church  seemed  to  us  in  the 
present  condition  of  the  city  to  be  in  the  least  advan- 
tageous situation  of  any  of  our  churches,  and  a new 
one  is  sorely  needed,  but  last  year  brought  fourteen 
additions,  raising  the  number  to  seventy-four.  Mr. 
Alexander  is  engaged  also  in  a mission  school  near 
the  Kutra  Station,  which  has  one  hundred  and  sixty- 
two  scholars  and  a bazaar  school  of  twenty-five  scholars. 
But  beyond  this  his  labors  extend,  in  strengthening 
the  churches  and  assisting  other  missions. 

At  this  old  station  one  of  the  most  interesting  instru- 
mentalities of  missionary  efibrt  is  the  printing  and  pub- 
lishing department.  The  printing  is  now  conducted 
by  natives,  who  can  do  it  more  cheaply  than  the  mission- 
aries, upon  whom,  however,  the  work  of  editing  comes 
almost  entirely.  The  press  in  the  early  efforts  of  the 
church  in  India  was  one  of  the  most  efficient  agencies, 
and  could  do  as  much  now  to  bring  in  the  final 
result  if  it  were  pushed  by  the  Board.  This  work 
of  the  American  Presbyterian  Church  is  recognized 


440 


by  all  the  Christian  laborers  of  every  kind  in  India, 
Dr.  Shearing,  of  the  London  Missionary  Society, 
says  that  “the  missions  of  the  Presbyterian  Board 
of  America  deserves  the  credit  of  creatiug  a Christian 
lliterature.”  Amost  the  entire  Bible  has  be-  n trans- 
lated here,  Hindu  and  Hei)rew  grammars,  also  transla- 
tions of  various  standard  works,  a Hindu  Lymii-book, 
and  Dr.  Hodge’s  “Outlines  of  Theology.”  In  the 
work  of  preparing  a literature  the  native  missionaries 
have  done  good  service.  One  of  the  must  eminent 
went  up  higher  years  ago,  the  Rev.  Ishwari  Dass. 
There  is  also  a paper  which  has  lived  through  fourteen 
years,  is  still  alive  and  healthy,  the  Makhzan-il  Masihiy. 
or  Christian  treasury,  and  is  published  in  the  Urdu 
language  for  Christian  families. 

Since  our  visit  there  has  been  a new  church  com- 
pleted in  an  advantageous  place,  from  which  great 
things  may  be  expected.  It  is  at  a centre  of  population, 
especially  of  business,  where  men  of  all  opinions  con- 
gregate, who  will  turn  in  to  hear  the  gospel  at  leisure 
moments  from  curiosity,  malignity,  or  from  honest 
interest  in  its  claims.  It  was  opened  by  special  religi- 
ous services,  attended  by  crowds  of  Hindus  and 
Mohammedans.  It  was  the  occasion  for  the  display 
of  brotherly  love,  in  which  missionaries  everywhere 
excel  all  others.  In  the  services  Episcopalians,  Metho- 
dists and  Baptists  joined  heartily  in  the  joy  and 
triumph  of  the  Presbyterians. 

In  the  home  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Alexander  the  acquain- 
tance of  Rev.  Mr.  Janvier  was  made,  who  with  his 
young  wife,  formerly  Miss  Rankin,  daughter  of  a mis- 
sionary in  China,  began  his  life-work  in  the  strength 
of  his  manhood,  bringing  fine  scholarship,  a well- 
trained  mind,  Christian  enthusiasm  and  a sacred  name 


441 


— a martyr  name ; for  his  father,  the  Kev.  Dr.  Janvier^ 
of  Sabathu,  was  killed  at  a Mela  at  Anandpur  by  st 
Sikh  fanatic  in  1863. 

The  female  missionaries  have  not  received  yet  the 
attention  they  deserve,  for  “ woman’s  work  for  woman’^ 
in  India  stands  the  peer  of  all  that  man  has  done, 
not  a rival,  but  a helper.  The  wives  of  the  mission- 
aries are  all  workers,  in  teaching,  in  attracting  the 
favor  of  the  natives,  in  gaining  their  confidence,  in 
zenanas  where  men  cannot  go,  and  so  reaching  men 
in  the  most  natural  and  heaven  appointed  way,  by 
women.  It  is  a wonderful  revelation  of  the  unfold- 
ing of  divine  grace  that  woman  has  been  elevated  ta 
her  place  in  the  soul-saving  service  in  the  world,  and 
that  she  is  no  longer  in  the  moral  sphere  a cipher  added 
to  a digit,  but  in  herself  is  both  digit  and  cipher  hap- 
pily conjoined.  The  medical  work  is  carried  on  by  Miss 
Seward,  M.D.,  assisted  by  Miss  Syms,  a graduate  from. 
London,  and  no  efforts  of  consecrated  and  qualified 
woman  can  be  more  useful  in  opening  doors  of  oppor- 
tunity for  the  incoming  of  the  Great  Physician  to  soul 
and  body.  The  only  defect  observed  was  a want  of 
laborers  and  a weakening  notion  too  prevalent  among- 
many  good  men,  but  in  our  judgment  narrow  and 
distrustful,  pernicious  both  at  home  and  abroad,  that 
the  English  ought  to  take  care  of  India,  which  is 
about  as  wise  under  the  circumstances  as  to  say  that 
Germany  ought  to  evangelize  France.  It  appeared 
to  us  that  the  foundations  of  society  were  being  under- 
mined and  that  this  is  the  time  to  get  ready  for  a 
reorganization  upon  their  ruins  for  Christ. 

The  Methodist  and  Baptist  Churches  also  have 
missions  in  Allahabad.  The  Methodists  are  com- 
paratively young  in  the  work,  but  are  making  progress^- 


442 


The  Baptists  have  never  in  Northern  India  made  the 
wonderful  progress  which  has  crowned  their  labors  in 
the  South  and  in  Burmah.  Their  work  here,  like  the 
rest  of  the  churches,  is  slow,  but  it  is  a contribution  to 
breaking  down  and  enlightening  needful  before  any 
wide-spread  upbuilding  comes.  Disorganization  must 
come  in  order  to  reorganization.  The  English  Church 
is  strongly  entrenched  in  the  work  of  the  London 
Church  Missionary  Society.  This  Society  has  several 
Divinity  Schools,  one  at  Lahore  and  another  at  Alla- 
habad. 

The  acquaintance  of  Professor  Hacket  was  made 
on  the  Indian  Ocean  in  the  ship.  He  is  a man  of 
abilities  and  attainments  and  a delightful  companion, 
a man  of  broad  sympathies,  as  are  the  missionaries  in 
this  Indian  field.  He  extended  the  hospitalities  of  a 
true  foreign  missionary.  We  were  in  the  Divinity 
School  during  one  of  Professor  Hacket’s  recitations, 
which  seemed  to  be  going  on  all  right,  in  the  native 
tongue,  which  is  about  as  far  as  our  knowledge  would 
warrant.  He  extended  an  invitation  to  us  to  address 
the  students  in  English,  which  was  accepted  and  en- 
joyed on  account  of  the  brightness  and  enthusiasm 
of  the  candidates  for  orders  under  the  commission  of 
our  Divine  Head.  This  missionary  was  one  of  those 
who  exposed  the  tricks  of  the  notorious  Madam  Bla- 
vatsky,  incurring  the  wrath  of  her  dupes  on  every 
side.  Theosophy  received  its  death  blow  through  these 
exposures  with  all  who  do  not  delight  in  the  sensations 
of  fraud.  Theosophy  is  on  the  level  in  India  with 
common  jugglery. 


CHAPTER  XLI. 


SOUTH-EAST  INDIA.— BENARES. 

BOUT  twenty-eight  hundred  miles  have  been 


travelled  over  plains  on  whose  vast  expanse 
not  even  an  undulation  appears.  To  see  a hill  or 
mountain  is  like  meeting  an  old  friend  and  renewing 
a home  acquaintance.  The  spuis  of  the  Himalayas 
run  out  into  the  plain  aud  cut  off  the  line  of  vision 
northward.  This  range  is  singular  in  that  it  starts 
up  abruptly  from  the  level  plain  in  a succession 
of  terraces  rising  to  a height  of  eight  to  ten  thousand 
feet,  followed  by  a plain  extending  northward  hundreds 
of  miles,  broken  by  mountains  of  about  equal  height. 
Rising  from  these  is  another  range,  the  whole  eleva- 
tion being  twenty-eight  thousand  feet,  covered  with 
everlasting  snows,  which  no  tropical  heats  have  ever  de- 
V nuded  of  their  hoary  locks.  But  another  surprise  on 
the  way  is  the  reappearance  of  palm  trees,  graceful 
and  fruitful,  and  in  their  society  the  plantains,  which 
nestle  under  their  great  shadows. 

The  ancient  city  of  Benares  appears  on  the  west 
side  of  the  Ganges,  that  most  sacred  and  most  filthy 
of  all  rivers.  The  one  turned  through  the  Augean 
stables  was  of  crystal  clearness  and  cleanness  com- 
pared to  it.  It  serves  the  purpose  in  India  of  the 
scape-goat  in  Syria,  which  bore  away  the  sins  of  the 
people.  The  Ganges  carries  away  some  portion  of 
the  indescribable  dirt  of  the  Hindus  into  the  sea. 
It  looks  very  much  like  the  Missouri  river  at  this 
time,  but  in  the  rainy  season  is  larger  and  more 
turbid. 


443 


444 


Benares  is  the  brain  of  Indian  idolatry,  and  one 
of  the  oldest  cities  in  the  world.  It  has  not  much  re- 
corded history,  for  it  has  only  been  ambitious  in  up- 
holding that  idolatry  which  has  wrought  its  degradation. 
Its  glory  is  that  it  is  a city  “ wholly  given  to  idolatry.’^ 
Its  original  name  was  Kasshi,  and  first  appears  B.  C. 
1200,  or  to  attach  the  date  to  what  is  more  familiar, 
about  the  period  of  the  Judges  in  the  Old  Testa- 
ment, and  of  the  elopement  of  Helen  of  Troy  in 
the  history  of  the  Greeks.  It  was  not  until  the  sixth 
century  B.  C.  that  the  history  of  this  city  became 
definite.  Then  an  event  occurred  which  not  only 
glorified  Benares  as  a religious  centre,  but  became  a 
moving  impulse  through  all  the  East,  the  results 
of  which  we  survey  to-day.  That  event  was  the  birth 
of  Sakya  Muni  and  the  rise  of  Buddhism. 

Siddharta,  a prince  of  one  of  the  minor  principali- 
ties near  the  Himalayas,  worn  out  with  the  seductive 
luxuries  of  an  Eastern  court,  entered  Gaya  in  the 
guise  of  an  ascetic  in  quest  of  deliverance  from  the  vices 
of  himself  and  his  times.  He  was  sceptical  respecting 
Hinduism,  still  he  was  friendly  with  some  of  its  disci- 
ples and  kept  in  the  society  of  Brahmins,  frequented 
the  schools  of  philosophy  and  practised  the  penances 
which  his  teachers  prescribed ; but  none  of  these  ever 
helped  him  to  solve  the  secrets  of  life  and  death.  He 
turned  from  its  gods,  and  accompanied  by  five  Brah- 
min friends,  retired  to  the  solitudes  of  the  forest  to 
think  out  the  great  problems  of  life.  For  six  years 
he  endured  all  that  Brahmins  did  in  austerities  with 
the  purpose  of  subduing  every  natural  desire,  that  he 
might  triumph  in  the  end  in  the  work  he  had  set  him- 
self to  do.  But  all  that  came  of  it  was  projecting 
bones  and  spindle  shanks,  with  little  disposition  to 


445 


make  any  effort.  This  led  him  to  the  conviction 
that  the  mind  and  body  were  too  dependant  on  each 
other  to  solve  problems  by  starvation.  So  he  resolved 
to  eat,  which  offended  his  Brahmin  friends,  and  they 
left  him.  He  was  greatly  weakened  and  dejected 
by  disappointment,  and  was  about  to  giv^e  up,  but 
resolved  to  make  a last  desperate  effort.  Taking 
forty-nine  days’  supply  of  food  with  him  he  sat  down 
under  a tree  and  gave  himself  to  the  deepest  abstrac- 
tion, the  result  of  which  was  the  system  of  Buddhism. 
Buddha  was  a philanthropist  and  sought  deliverance 
for  others  as  well  as  himself. 

He  had  left  his  father’s  court  with  the  determina- 
tion not  to  return  until  he  could  bring  tidings  of 
deliverance  to  all,  and  now  he  started  on  his  mission. 
He  went  in  search  of  his  offended  Brahmin  friends 
to  reveal  his  discoveries,  and  next  to  the  sages  to  whom 
he  had  listened  the  schools  of  philosophy  to  inform 
them  of  the  better  way.  His  course  was  onward, 
everywhere  proclaiming  his  newly  evolved  system  and 
was  nearly  everywhere  successful.  Multitudes  re- 
ceived his  doctrines,  among  whom  must  have  been 
the  King  of  Benares  and  his  court,  for  it  was  soon 
afterward  a Buddhist  capital.  His  fame  spread  to 
Burmah,  Mongolia  aud  China.  Benares  was  filled 
with  the  prosperity  which  the  new  doctrines  gave, 
its  riches  multiplied  and  its  territorial  sway  extended 
as  far  south  as  Orissa. 

The  Brahmins  were  overwhelmed,  but  not  de- 
stroyed ; they  waited  and  hated.  Driven  from  their 
stronghold  they  took  refuge  in  the  small  kingdom  of 
Kananj.  Their  time  of  recovery  and  vengeance  came*. 
King  Asoka  was  a follower  of  the  new  doctrine  and 
all-powerful  as  paramount  sovereign  of  Hindustan. 


446 


He  was  so  ill-advised  as  to  attempt  to  force  his  faith 
on  the  hostile  faction.  But  this,  as  usual,  united 
them  and  started  them  on  the  aggressive,  quicken- 
ing their  fallen  system  with  new  intellectual  life,  so 
that  it  adapted  itself  to  the  wants  and  weaknesses 
of  the  people.  Thus  they  encroached  at  first  on  Budd- 
hism, then  conquered  it,  so  that  in  the  twelfth  century 
A.  D.  it  was  expelled  from  India.  Nothing  could 
shake  it  in  Benares  until  the  eleventh  century,  when 
it  was  overthrown  and  the  city  again  became  the 
Brahmin  capital  and  the  nerve  centre  of  its  move- 
ments. But  it  is  in  decay  now ; its  shrines  are  being 
deserted,  its  great  temples  falling  into  the  Ganges, 
and  no  man  loves  it  enough  to  put  forth  a hand  to 
avert  its  inevitable  ruin. 

The  first  shock  given  to  the  city  was  in  the  Mo- 
hammedan conquest.  It  was  overcome  by  Mohamed 
Ghory,  the  founder  of  the  second  Mohammedan  dynasty 
of  Delhi,  in  1194.  In  1677  it  received  a second  visit- 
ation from  the  Mohammedan  scourge.  The  Emperor 
Aurungezebe  hated  all  infidels  of  every  name.  Benares 
was  sacked,  its  temples  demolished,  and  as  usual  upon 
the  sacred  sites  mosques  were  erected  from  the  frag- 
ments. This  involved  the  removal  of  nearly  all  that 
was  superb  in  temples  from  the  city.  This  ruler  also 
tried  to  humble  the  English  colony  on  the  Hoogley. 
He  feared  even  then  its  growing  power,  and  with 
good  reason,  for  the  English  had  determined  to  found 
an  empire  in  the  East,  which  was  begun  in  earnest 
under  Clive  and  Warren  Hastings.  Benares  itself  is 
now  included  in  this  new  imperial  sway. 

* The  Sepoy  rebellion  maKifested  itself  at  this  centre, 
but  was  summarily  ended  by  a few  brave  English,  who 
not  only  disarmed  the  insurgents,  but  slaughtered 


447 


many  of  them  as  they  were  carrying  out  their  pur- 
pose, on  June  3d,  1857.  Keligious  Benares  is  all 
that  is  worthy  of  a thought  at  present,  and  this 
thought  will  only  beget  disgust.  It  is  considered 
the  most  sacred  of  all  the  holy  places  in  India,  and 
whoever  dies  within  its  hallowed  area,  be  he  Hindu, 
Mohammedan  or  Christian,  pure  in  heart  or  foul  in 
life,  is  sure  of  a blessed  hereafter.  Men  spend  their 
lives  in  oppression  and  crime  and  then  come  to  die  at 
Benares,  comforted  with  the  thought  that  all  sins  can 
be  washed  away  by  its  sacred  stream.  It  contains  four- 
teen hundred  and  eighty  places  of  idolatrous  worship. 
Their  architectural  characteristics  and  the  fine  carv- 
ings and  tracery  upon  them  will  command  attention, 
and  in  some  special  cases  admiration,  even  when  one 
stands  amidst  the  sickening  degradations  within  and 
about  them. 

Shiva  is  the  tutelary  god  of  the  city  and  his  trident 
is  seen  on  many  spires  and  domes.  Shiva  w'orship 
originated  in  the  conception  of  man’s  ability  to  raise 
himself  by  his  own  austerities  to  an  equality  with  the 
gods.  It  considered  the  human  soul  as  an  emanation 
from  the  divine,  and  urges  its  adherents  to  realize  re- 
newed union  by  subduirig  the  passions  and  mortifying 
the  desires.  The  popular  idea  of  him  is  that  he  is  a 
mendicant  who  gained  and  who  keeps  his  place  by 
his  austerities  ; morals  he  had  none ; he  was  drunken 
and  licentious.  In  his  lifetime  he  rode  a bull  from  city 
to  city  craving  alms  and  indulging  in  vices  that  decency 
dares  not  name.  This  is  the  reason  why  the  bull  is  sacred 
to  him  and  used  as  one  of  his  disgusting  symbols.  His 
aspect  is  frightful  in  the  extreme.  A third  eye  in  his 
forehead  is  supposed  to  recfuce  to  ashes  any  one  bold 
enough  to  interrupt  his  devotions.  A necklace  of 


448 


Imman  skulls  dangles  about  his  neck,  while  serpents 
mingle  with  his  hair  and  crawl  over  his  person. 

There  is  also  Vishnu  worship,  which  is . essentially 
different  from  Shivaism.  It  starts  from  the  idea 
of  God  condescending  to  men  and  revealing  him- 
self in  a series  of  avatars.  The  name  of  the  supreme 
being  is  Brahm,  and  from  him  gods  and  all  existing 
things  have  sprung.  The  first  person  in  the  Hindu 
triad  is  Brahma,  the  creator;  the  second  is  Vishnu, 
who  had  nine  avatars,  or  incarnations;  the  third  Shiv. 
Vishnu  is  represented  as  of  a black  or  blue  color,  and 
as  in  a state  of  repose  resting  on  the  face  of  the 
floods  by  which  the  former  world  was  destroyed.  The 
lotus  flower  is  his  throne,  which  is  supported  on  the 
waters  by  the  great  serpent  Ananta,  and  upon  which 
he  reclines,  oblivious  of  all  objects  and  indiff^erent  to 
the  affairs  of  men. 

This  worship  was  far  too  refined  for  the  common 
mind,  and  to  make  it  popular  avatars  or  second  in- 
<jarnations  were  invented,  nine  in  number,  among 
which  are  the  fish,  tortoise,  boar,  man,  lion,  dwarf. 
But  they  are  of  no  consequence  further  than  to  show 
the  essential  beastliness  of  this  form  of  heathenism. 
It  is  the  sixth  avatar  that  brings  us  on  historical 
ground,  which  is  that  of  Kama,  the  popular  hero  of 
the  Brahmins,  and  of  these  only.  The  seventh  avatar 
was  the  great  warrior  hero,  Kama  Chandra,  with  Sita, 
his  wife,  and  his  brother  Lachman.  This  incarnation 
is  next  to  that  of  Krishna,  the  most  popular  in  North- 
ern India.  Their  deeds  are  celebrated  in  that  mag- 
nificent epic,  the  Ramayan,  of  which  there  is  a first- 
rate  translation  in  English.  Ram  is  the  lip  god,  for  he 
dwells  on  the  lips  of  the  multitudes.  Their  morning 
jsalutation  is  “Ram ;”  the  funeral  cry  is  “Ram  sat  pai — ’* 


449 


*‘he  is  the  self-existent.”  The  pilgrim  hurries  on  crying, 
^‘Siti  Ram,  SitaRam.” 

Ram  was  assisted  by  the  monkeys,  under  their 
great  leader,  Hanuman,  in  his  victory  over  Ravana, 
the  demon  god  of  Ceylon,  who  had  carried  off  his 
beautiful  Sita.  This  victory  is  celebrated  every 
October  in  a festival  which  occupies  tbe  place  of  honor 
in  the  Hindu  calendar.  The  eighth  avatar  was 
Krishna,  the  most  popular  of  the  present  day.  He 
was  born  in  Muttra  some  centuries  before  our  era. 
His  parents  belonged  to  a Nomadic  tribe  called  Yada- 
vas.  He  was  famous  for  his  skill  as  a musician,  and  for 
his  coarse  gallantries  among  the  milk-maids  of  Brinda- 
bun.  He  occupies  his  high  niche  in  the  temple  of 
fame  on  account  of  the  assistance  which  he  rendered*  to 
the  Pandav  brothers  in  their  long  struggle  of  supremacy 
over  their  formidable  rivals,  the  Kanravs.  He  died 
at  Muttra  in  obscurity,  but  his  name  and  memory  are 
imperishable. 

This  story  excites  the  Hindu  of  the  present  day  as  do 
the  events  celebrated  during  the  Muharram  the  Moham- 
medan. Krishna  is  generally  represented  as  a shepherd 
with  his  flute,  or  holding  a huge  snake,  on  the  head  of 
which  he  is  standing.  The  ninth  avatar  is  said  by  the 
Brahmins  to  have  been  Buddha.  Recognizing  Buddha 
as  an  avatar  and  incorporating  his  theories  the  Brah- 
mins gained  his  adherents  and  did  away  with  the 
necessity  of  a separate  sect  in  India. 

The  tenth  avatar  or  incarnation  is  yet  to  come. 
But  many  assert  that  it  has  come  in  the  English  rule, 
which  explains  the  hold  that  the  English  have  on 
some  of  these  people  who  believe  that  they  will 
prepare  the  way  for  greater  future  revelation  and  con- 
summation. There  is  among  the  many  idol  repre- 


450 


sentaticns  of  Benares  one  of  a monkey  wearing  a 
crown  and  holding  a huge  mace  in  his  hand.  This  is 
the  monkey  General  Hanuman,  who  with  his  legions 
helped  Ram  to  conquer  Ravana  and  deliver  Sita,  to 
which  reference  has  been  made. 

The  river  Ganges  is  the  river  esteemed  above  all  by 
the  Hindus,  because  the  Shastras  declare  that  it  flows 
from  the  toe  of  Vishnu.  Durga  is  another  of  these 
deities,  the  consort  of  Shiv,  and  in  this  character  is  said 
to  delight  in  the  afflictions  and  death  of  men.  She  is 
worshipped  by  the  sacrifices  of  animal  blood,  and 
formerly  of  human  beings,  ofiered  to  appease  her 
wrath  and  to  turn  aside  the  calamities  which  she  de-^ 
lights  in  sending. 

This  condensed  outline  will  throw  light  upon  the 
descriptions  which  will  be  given  in  their  order  to 
show  that  idolatry  is  not  a senseless  -thing  in  the 
Hindu  mind,  but  has  a wealth  of  religious  ideas,  gene- 
alogies, philosophies  and  histories.  In  and  through 
these  it  combines  all  the  hues  of  native  thought,  as  the 
white  light  has  in  it  all  the  colors  of  the  rainbow. 

CHAPTER  XLII. 

RELIGIOUS  SHRINES  AT  BENARES. 

NE  of  the  remaining  objects  of  religious  interest  is 


the  Golden  Temple  of  Bisheshwar  Nath.  It  is 
reached  by  a narrow  street  reeking  with  filth.  One 
does  not  know  what  to  do  with  his  feet,  and  his  nose 
is  in  open  rebellion.  He  is  elbowed  and  jammed 
between  dirty  wretches,  quarrelling  among  themselves, 
and  agreeing  only  on  the  one  purpose,  to  devour,  if  pos- 
sible, the  meek  and  unfortunate  European.  The  first 


451 


'building  that  arrests  the  attention  is  a large,  white 
mosque,  which  stands  on  the  site  of  the  old  temple 
Bisheshwar,  destroyed  during  the  persecutions  of  the 
Hindus  by  Aurungezebe,  and  was  designed  to  be  a 
standing  insult  to  the  Hindus.  Its  offensive  proximity 
to  their  most  sacred  centre  in  Benares  has  led  to  many 
a battle  between  Hindus  and  Mohammedans,  in  which 
the  former  are  usually  worsted,  for  the  Mohammedans 
have  about  all  the  courage  shown  in  such  emergencies, 
and  are  never  averse  to  a fracas  in  which  they  can  exer- 
cise it.  The  old  temple  was  thrown  down  by  them, 
but  this  did  not  satisfy  their  rancor,  they  must  add 
insult  to  injury,  so  the  images  were  used  as  steps  for 
the  faithful  to  tread  upon.  They  are  an  insolent  set 
of  wretches,  but  further  than  this  they  ought  not  to  be 
accused  of  moral  obliquity. 

It  is  a pity  they  did  not  lift  the  ground  on  which 
these  abominations  stand,  for  if  Hindu  life  is  worth 
preserving  it  would  have  been  a great  blessing.  In 
such  places  cholera  is  bred  and  will  ever  exist,  for  no 
cleaner  disease  could  live  and  preserve  its  self-respect 
in  such  an  atmosphere.  There  is  an  old  Ficus  religi- 
osa,  the  trunk  of  which  is  overlaid  with  idols.  A lit- 
tle further  on  is  a stone  bull,  six  feet  and  a half  high, 
sacred  to  Mahadeo,  by  whose  name  it  is  known.  The 
Mahadeo’s  image  is  said  to  be  at  the  bottom.  The 
faithful  believe  that  at  the  approach  of  the  Moslems 
he  got  up  on  his  stone  “ pins”  and  cast  himself  down 
into  the  well.  The  well,  of  course,  is  honored;  so 
around  it  is  a carved  stone  wall  covered  by  a large 
cloth  to  prevent  the  flowers  and  other  offerings  from 
dropping  into  decay  in  its  sacred  waters,  but  for  all 
that  a considerable  part  goes  down  and  the  stench  is 
insufferable. 


452 


Two  wells  at  Benares  are  considered  supremely  holy. 
One  is  called  “ the  well  of  knowledge,”  in  which  a 
no  less  dignitary  than  the  god  Siva  is  supposed  to  re- 
side. Its  waters  are  in  a state  of  constant  putrefac- 
tion from  the  flowers  and  offerings  dropped  into  it. 
The  Manikarnaka  is  believed  to  have  been  dug  by 
Vishnu  with  his  discus  and  filled  with  the  perspiration 
of  his  own  body.  Stone  steps  lead  down  to  the 
water,  which  is  only  three  or  four  feet  deep.  These 
steps  a :e  thronged  with  bathing  pilgrims,  many  of 
whom  are  filthy  and  covered  with  sores,  the  stench 
of  which  fills  the  air  around.  These  reeking  waters 
are  believed  to  be  infallible  in  washing  away  the  sins 
of  the  soul. 

But  all  dirt  seems  to  be  holy  in  the  eyes  of  heathen- 
ism. The  divergence  of  Christianity  appears  in 
clearest  contrast  with  this.  There  is  no  nameable 
filthy  thing  that  is  not  either  drunken  or  eaten  by  these 
peoples  at  some  time  or  other  as  a sacred  act.  This 
water,  so  fetid,  is  tasted  by  every  worshipper,  and  some 
glut  themselves  with  this  liquid  nastiness.  A Brah- 
min, seated  at  the  well’s  side,  serves  it  out  to  the  thirsty 
crowd,  who  smack  their  lips  with  an  absolute  relish. 
As  every  spoonful  lines  the  pockets  of  the  priests, 
it  need  not  be  said  that  the  owners  are  men  of  vast 
wealth,  but  this  does  not  stop  the  clamor  for  “ back- 
shish,” and  Christians  might  as  well  know  that  the 
priests  regard  “ backshish”  from  Europeans  as  their 
offerings  to  idols.  These  dumb  stone  and  metal  man- 
made idols  are  constantly  drenched  with  water, 
votive  offerings  from  the  Ganges,  for  its  waters  fur- 
nish a part  of  every  offering ; the  result  is  prolonged 
and  disagreeable  filth. 


453 


Near  by  is  a small,  but  exceedingly  artistic,  build- 
ing of  white  marble,  and  a peep  can  be  taken  through 
the  wall  at  the  east  end  of  the  Golden  Temple  into 
the  interior,  which  is  crammed  with  idols  of  every 
form,  size  aud  ugliness.  Emerging  from  this  passage 
of  stifling  air  and  disgusting  humanity  a shop  is 
reached,  the  floor  of  which  is  covered  with  marigolds 
and  other  garish  flower  sold  to  the  worshippers  for 
offerings. 

From  here  an  ascent  may  be  made  to  the  Naubal 
Khana,  from  which  a soul-sickening  view  may  be  had 
of  heathenism  in  its  most  degrading  manifestations. 
Crowds  in  intermingling  confusion  move  by  each  other, 
going  to  and  fro  ; those  coming  with  holy  water  from 
the  Ganges  suffusing  each  of  the  idols,  at  the  same 
time  touching  with  their  foreheads  some  sacred  stone 
in  the  floor.  But  the  most  indescribable  part  is  the 
rubbing  of  their  faces  with  the  tails  of  the  sacred 
bulls  until  they  were  smeared ; then  going  to  their 
heads  they  kiss  them  on  their  lips,  and  the  most  de- 
vout did  the  same  at  the  roots  of  their  tails.  This 
temple  is  full  of  sleek  bulls  and  cows,  which  are 
objects  of  devotion  to  the  multitudes,  and  eat  the 
garlands  of  marigolds  and  other  flowers  offered  by  the 
degraded  devotees. 

The  Golden  Temple  has  three  towers,  two  of  which 
at  eventime  flash  with  the  glory  of  the  setting  sun.  The 
covering  is  of  the  same  material  as  that  at  Amritsur, 
copper  plated  with  gold.  The  effect,  if  separated  from 
the  indescribable  loathsomeness  of  all  about,  would  be 
splendid,  and  something  which  one  would  instinctively 
pause  and  admire.  The  expense  of  this  temple  was 
borne  by  Maharajah  Runjit  Singh.  We  beg  our 
readers  to  bear  with  this  distasteful  description ; it 


454 


is  all  we  shall  ever  attempt  to  give,  and  we  are  sure 
that  it  is  more  than  enough  were  it  not  for  the  fact 
that  it  is  becoming  the  rage  to  glorify  heathenism 
in  efforts  at  comparative  religion.  Were  it  not  for 
this  there  would  be  no  need  for  the  wearisome  sacri- 
fice of  time  and  delicacy  of  feeling  necessary  to  de- 
scribe any  part  of  the  disgusting  affair. 

But  we  will  have  to  go  through  lower  depths  in  a 
visit  to  the  Annapurna^  or  the  cow  temple.  The  others 
described  were  in  the  positive  degree  of  comparison  ; 
this  is  comparative,  for  there  is  still  another.  Its 
court  was  crowded  with  worshippers  and  Brahminic 
bulls  that  stuff  themselves  all  day  long  on  the  heaps 
of  garlands  cast  before  them  by  the  crowds  of  wor- 
shippers. The  offal  of  these  sacred  beasts  is  received 
in  human  hands  with  delight  at  the  honor  of  the  ser- 
vice. This  place  of  animal  abomination  is  reached  by 
a passage,  just  at  the  door  of  which  is  deposited  the 
offal  of  these  beasts.  This  temple  was  built  about 
1721  by  the  Peshwa  Baji  Rao,  who  was  deprived  of 
his  territory,  thank  heaven!  by  Lord  Warren  Hast- 
ings. 

The  superlative  in  degradation  is  Durga  Kund,  or 
monkey  temple.  We  have  said  before  that  the  mon- 
key is  a sacred  being.  This  temple  is  dedicated  to 
Durga  or  Kali,  (the  authoress  of  all  ills,  sufferings  and 
death)  in  order  to  appease  her  wrath  and  avert 
danger.  She  is  worshipped  not  only  with  the  ordi- 
nary offerings,  but  with  higher  forms  of  life,  such  as  he 
goats,  rams,  and  sometimes  buffaloes.  In  front  of  the 
temple  is  an  altar  about  two  and  a half  feet  high, 
with  a pan-shaped,  shallow  cut  in  the  upper  end  to 
catch  the  blood  when  the  head  of  the  sacrificial  vic- 
tim is  severed.  There  is  a post  cut  in  the  cen- 


455 


tre  like  a two  pronged  fork ; in  this  fork  is 
pressed  the  neck  of  the  animal,  which , is  held 
in  position  by  a firm  fixture  passed  through  the 
prongs  of  the  fork  over  the  animal’s  neck.  The  priest 
holds  a long,  heavy  knife  and  faces  the  temple  in  the 
sacrificial  act.  When  ready  an  attendant  seizes  the 
legs  of  the  victim  and  pulls  his  neck  to  enable  the 
priest  with  one  blow  to  sever  the  head  from  the  body, 
for  if  the  head  is  not  clean  cut  from  the  body  evil 
will  betide  the  offerer  of  the  sacrifice. 

The  temple  stands  in  a quadrangle  surrounded  by 
massive  walls.  Within  are  even  more  shocking  per- 
formances than  without.  Deified  monkeys  with  their 
well-known  habits  command  adoration,  and  they  be- 
have as  if  conscious  of  the  fact.  Hundreds  of  these 
-creatures  scamper  and  chatter ; nothing  escapes  their 
detection.  They  became  so  numerous  and  pestiferous 
that  the  citizens  had  to  request  the  magistrates  to  re- 
move them.  Several  car  loads  were  carried  north 
and  dumped  out  to  continue  their  torments  in  another 
place,  on  the  principle  that  “ turn  about”  in  the 
endurance  of  religious  pests  “ is  fair  play.”  We  have 
always  had  a sense  of  disgust  at  the  monkey  cosmog- 
ony advanced  by  our  modern  materialists,  but  confess 
that  it  has  lost  much  of  its  loathsomeness  and  has 
gained  probability  in  the  worship  heathenism  gives.  The 
difference,  however,  is  in  favor  of  the  monkeys,  who,  so  far 
as  known,  have  never  lowered  themselves  to  the  wor- 
ship of  man,  while  man  has  forced  his  homage  on  them. 

At  the  south  side  of  the  temple  is  an  immense 
Tamarind  tree,  the  body  of  which  looks  as  if  formed 
out  of  monkeys  grouped  lengthwise.  It  has  within 
its  trunk  a hollow  of  about  two  feet  in  diameter,  and 
has  been  the  lying-in  hospital  for  centuries.  No  mon- 


456 


key  of  all  the  temple  multitudes  is  said  to  have  been 
born  out  of  this  place.  This  temple  stands  on  an 
elevated  platform  and  has  several  fine  architectural 
efiects.  In  front  of  it  there  is  a porch  supported  by 
twelve  carved  pillars ; from  the  roof,  which  is  dome- 
shaped, are  suspended  two  bells.  The  temple  was 
built  by  the  Kani  of  Natur  in  the  last  century.  It 
has  brazen  doors,  and  on  a platform  is  the  idol  temple 
in  a small  building,  to  which  the  visitor  may  approach 
so  near  as  to  see  the  idol,  which  has  a face  of  silver,  and 
also  the  priest  officiating.  It  is  magnificently  dressed 
and  adorned  with  numerous  garlands.  A priest,  or 
some  other  dignitary,  throws  over  the  pilgrim’s  hat 
two  garlands,  one  of  marigolds  and  the  other  of  jessa- 
mine, which  part  of  the  performance  was  not  under- 
stood technically,  but  the  ultimate  thule^  “ backshish,’' 
was  comprehended. 

On  the  way  from  the  temple  to  the  Ghats  may  be 
seen  one  of  those  wheeled  monsters,  the  pictures  of 
which  every  boy  and  girl  has  regarded  with  terrified 
wonder,  the  Car  of  Juggernath,  which  means  “ lord 
of  the  world,”  the  Moloch  of  India.  It  has  twelve 
wheels ; on  the  platform  over  them  is  a series  of 
columns  about  two  and  a half  feet  high  and  two  and 
a half  inches  in  diameter,  octagonal  in  shape,  with 
Ionic  capitals.  There  are  about  fifty  of  these  sustain- 
ing the  second  platform,  on  which  is  the  throne,  an 
afiair  enclosed  all  round  except  in  front.  It  is  octag- 
onal and  has  eight  columns  sustaining  the  dome, 
which  is  elongated  and  also  octagonal.  In  this  place, 
painted  and  ornamented  in  fantastic  colors,  the  piiest 
sits,  while  the  car  containing  the  idol  is  being  drawn 
at  frightful  speed  and  regardless  of  consequences. 
This  car  was  an  old  one,  and  looked  as  if  it  had 


457 


crushed  many  a devotee.  It  is  now  only  taken  out 
once  a year,  on  anniversary  days  of  the  car  festival, 
when  the  great  car  at  Puri  is  dragged  out. 

Puri  is  a small  town  on  the  shore  of  the  Bay  of 
Bengal  and  ranks  next  to  Benares  in  sanctity.  Multi- 
tudes of  pilgrims  throng  to  this  place,  many  of  whom 
are  women.  Hundreds  die  by  the  way,  and  skeletons 
lie  scattered  along  the  road.  During  their  stay  they 
must  buy  the  food  presented  to  Juggernath,  which  is 
often  putrid,  badly  cooked  and  very  dear,  and  as  it  is 
sacred  not  a morsel  must  be  thrown  away.  The  result 
is  that  sickness  makes  fearful  havoc  among  them. 
The  images  of  the  god  and  those  of  his  brother  and 
sister  are  horrible  to  behold.  That  of  Juggernath  has 
large  round  eyes,  a peaked  nose,  and  looks  like  an 
owl.  On  festival  days,  of  which  there  are  two,  the 
images  are  bathed  with  sacred  water  and  dressed  in 
costly  robes.  They  are  then  taken  to  a small  room 
called  the  sick  chamber,  where  they  remain  for  two 
weeks,  suffering,  it  is  said,  from  fever  resulting  from 
the  unusual  exposure  of  the  bath,  and  during  this 
time  the  temple  doors  are  kept  carefully  chased  and 
there  is  no  regular  worship.  The  reason,  however,  is 
that  they  are  receiving  a fresh  coat  of  paint.  After 
this  is  done  they  are  brought  out  for  public  inspection 
and  admiration,  and  afterward  dragged  on  three  cars 
to  temples  two  miles  distant,  and  after  remaining  four 
or  five  days  are  dragged  back. 

The  only  other  objects  worthy  of  description  in 
this  heathen  capital,  Benares,  are  the  Ghats,  the 
places  of  religious  ablutions  and  ceremonies  on  the 
banks  of  the  Ganges.  The  following  prayer  is 
addressed  to  the  river : — “ O,  Mother  Ganga ! I 
now  bow  at  thy  feet,  have  mercy  on  thy  servant. 


458 


VTho  can  describe  thy  virtues?  Were  the  greatest 
of  sinners,  the  perpetrator  of  endless  crimes,  to  pro- 
nounce the  word  Ganga,  he  being  delivered  from  all 
his  sins,  shall  be  translated  to  the  blissful  abode  of 
the  celestials.”  Thousands  of  pilgrims  flock  to  its 
brink  and  a constant  traffic  is  carried  on  in  transport- 
ing the  water  to  all  parts  of  the  country.  It  is  be- 
lieved that  if  one  die  with  his  body  half  immersed  in 
these  waters  he  shall  be  happy  thousands  of  thousands 
of  ages  and  resemble  Brahma.  This  leads  to  abuses, 
as  when  one  is  supposed  to  be  dying  he  is  laid  amidst 
a crowd  whose  shrieks  and  groans  disquiet  him,  and  a 
few  moments  before  death  is  placed  in  the  water  and  his 
mouth  fllled  with  mud  and  water.  In  this  way  many 
lives  are  shortened,  and  in  some  cases  men  are  mur- 
dered by  those  who  inherit  their  property.  The 
British  government  was  obliged  to  station  guards  to 
prevent  Hindu  mothers  from  sacrificing  their  children 
by  throwing  them  into  the  liver. 

The  first  of  these  celebrated  bathing  places,  or 
Ghats,  is  called  “ Dasaswamedh  Ghat,”  a place  of 
great  sanctity,  for  here  Brahma  himself  offered  a 
sacrifice  of  ten  horses  to  place  it  on  an  equality 
with  Allahabad.  It  is  the  very  gate  of  the  Hindu’s 
heaven,  and  so  holy  that  nothing  can  defile  it,  and  this 
we  were  ready  to  believe ; for  as  dirt  with  them  is  sanctity, 
it  is  so  dirty  that  nothing  in  the  range  of  the  universe 
could  defile  it.  It  is,  perhaps  on  account  of  its  incom- 
parable filthiness,  one  of  the  five  principal  places  of  pil- 
grimage. Above  the  Ghat,  pundits  or  teachers  may  be 
seen  seated  amidst  a group  of  idols  reading  the  sacred 
books  to  the  passing  worshippers.  During  an  eclipse 
it  is  thronged  so  densely  that  they  jostle  each  other 
into  the  river,  leaving  “ the  devil  to  take  the  hindmost.” 


459 


There  is  a series  of  steps  rising  to  a superb  build- 
ing with  extraordinary  tracings  in  sand-stone.  It  is 
called  the  Man  Mandira  Observatory  and  Ghat,  both  of 
which  were  erected  by  Mana  Sindha,  the  Rajah  of 
Ambherim  Rajputana. 

There  is  another  Ghat  which  may  be  of  interest, 
not  on  account  of  the  multitudes  of  the  creatures  that 
dabble  in  the  water,  called  Manikarnika  and  Scindia 
Ghat.  This  is  awfully  sacred ; its  sanctity,  however, 
affects  the  visitor  chiefly  at  the  nose;  instinctively  he 
grasps  this  facial  organ  and  holds  on  as  if  in  some 
way  it  were  to  be  his  salvation,  as  all  heathen  sanctity 
in  India  smells.  But  his  eyes  will  disclose  to  him  at 
this  place  the  marvellous  advantages  of  cremation,  for 
which  some  of  our  countrymen  are  trying  to  work  up 
a sentiment.  The  place  where  this  goes  on  is  called 
the  marghat,  the  place  of  burning.  There  is  a com- 
fort in-the  thought  that  a man  will  not  have  to  go 
through  this  process  until  he  is  dead;  and  therefore  it 
has  some  advantages  over  the  Papal  institution  of 
martyrdom  by  fire.  The  place  is  black,  greasy  and 
grimy,  and  is  colored  by  the  charred  dust  that  has 
accumulated  for  centuries.  Though  it  is  asserted  that 
what  remains  is  put  into  the  Ganges,  many  shall  wake 
to  the  future  out  of  their  watery  graves  to  find  that 
they  are  not  all  present,  part  having  been  left  upon 
the  shores  of  clay  and  time. 

Burning  was  going  on  within,  three  bodies  were 
passing  through  the  fires  of  purgation,  all  except 
what  escaped  in  the  air,  which  was  identified 
as  belonging  to  the  natives,  being  the  odor  of 
their  living  precepts  and  examples.  One  was  fin- 
ished all  but  the  skull,  from  which  the  hair  had 
not  all  been  burned  at  the  back,  protected  by  the  sand 


460 


in  which  it  lay.  This  was  poked  up  by  a stick,  pro- 
bably by  the  eldest  son,  whose  duty  it  is  to  break 
his  father’s  skull  with  a bamboo  pole.  It  was 
kicked  into  the  river  among  a crowd  of  women, 
who  were  filling  their  water  pitchers  for  home  use. 
The  ashes  were  shovelled  into  the  waters,  raising  a 
cloud  of  dust,  flying  all  about,  so  that  they  did 
not  get  entirely  into  the  sacred  river.  Another  body 
was  in  process  of  roasting,  the  feet  sticking  beyond 
the  pile  of  wood,  and  which,  when  burned  off,  would 
go  in  whole,  being  deprived  of  their  upper  appurte- 
nances. 

This  is  enough  “ to  sample  the  lot,”  and  we  have  no 
doubt  our  readers  are  as  anxious  as  we  to  get  away. 
But  while  we  were  moving  out  another  burial  per- 
formance came  in  sight ; it  was  the  last  rite  given  to 
a holy  fakir,  who  departed  this  life  for  want  of 
breath.  This  class  will  not  be  burned  at  death,  but 
have  the  distinguished  honor  of  being  buried  in 
the  Ganges.  He  was  a bony  specimen  even  of  the 
Hindu  kind,  whose  legs  in  their  best  estate  are  not 
thicker  than  ball  clubs  and  give  no  more  appear- 
ance of  fleshiness.  There  was  no  effort  to  disguise 
his  butternut-colored  legs.  He  was  wrapped  about 
the  body  with  something;  not  being  desirous  of 
too  accurate  knowledge,  we  cannot  tell  what ; clogs 
were  fastened  to  his  body  and  he  was  rowed  out  into 
the  middle  of  the  river  under  the  last  rays  of  a 
beautiful  sunsetting,  streaking  the  face  of  the  river  in 
golden  ripples,  and  was  there  dumped — “sic  tramit 
gloria  mundi” 

About  this  horrible  burning  place  are  many  small 
stone  tablets,  standing  upright  like  grave-stones. 
These  are  the  memorial  stones  of  Satis,  or  women  who 


461 


have  gone  through  the  abominable  Suttee  rather  than 
be  enslaved  in  perpetual  widowhood,  and  in  view  of 
the  light  which  they  possessed  we  cannot  be  hard  on 
them. 

Below  this  Ghat  is  a confusing  scene  of  architectural 
glory  and  degradation,  and  it  is  one  of  the  riddles  of 
history  how  intimately  the  grandest  architectural 
achievements  and  vast  hopeless  human  degrada- 
tion are  associated.  Below  this  place  of  burning  lie 
massive  and  splendid  ruins.  The  Ganges,  like  the  Mis- 
souri, is  always  undermining  its  banks,  which  to  the 
depth  of  one  hundred  feet  are  but  heaps  of  sand,  and 
these  magnificent  buildings,  all  clustered  at  the  river’s 
edge,  are  gradually  sinking  down  into  the  water. 
Several  of  the  Ghats  are  tipped  over  river  ward  and 
whole  blocks  stand  at  an  angle  of  forty-five  degrees. 
Great  clustered  towers,  peculiar  to  India,  pyramidal 
in  shape,  with  groups  of  pinnacles  of  exquisite  work- 
manship cut  on  their  sides,  bases,  columns  and 
architraves  are  all  being  moved  by  the  religious  in- 
stinct of  the  country  to  take  a dip  in  the  Ganges,  or 
perhaps  are  more  suggestive  to  the  Christian  of  the  top- 
pling processes  of  heathenism  bowing  before  the 
supremacy  of  the  all- conquering  power  of  the  truth. 
Even  in  Benares,  the  head  centre  of  heathenism  in 
India,  the  final  desolation  is  evident.  Juggernath  is 
gone;  Suttee  is  gone ; snake  worship  is  gone ; men 
are  found  boldly  denouncing  child-marriage.  Many 
are  trying  to  repair  the  old  system,  which  is  a declara- 
tion that  it  is  inadequate  to  the  needs  of  the  day. 
The  Somajs  are  only  acknowledgments  of  felt  weak- 
ness. 

The  Church  Missionary  Society  is  here  making  most 
encouraging  progress.  But  the  decay  of  the  people 


462 


will  go  on.  Only  by  death  can  life  be  evolved.  How 
can  a people  do  any  thing  but  die  physically,  men- 
tally and  morally  in  such  foul,  destroying  contact, 
such  unspeakable  religious  beastiality,  as  is  seen  on 
the  banks  of  the  Ganges?  Priests  are  quarrelling 
as  to  who  will  do  the  abominable  deception  best,  and 
the  devotees  are  travelling  around  holding  on  to  a 
bull’s  tail,  while  he  symbolically  takes ‘them  inta 
heaven,  they  using  his  tail,  wiping  their  faces  there- 
with, to  take  their  sins  away.  The  very  sight  of  it 
is  debasing ; a Christian  who  has  seen  it  afar-off  feels 
defiled  even  by  its  vision.  The  cry  of  Peter  came 
again  and  again  into  memory,  as  the  only  fitting 
expression  after  witnessing  these  horrible  realities: 
“ Lord,  wash  not  my  feet  only,  but  my  hands  and  my 
head.” 

There  is  little  else  worthy  of  notice  in  Benares  except 
mud  houses,  stagnant  ponds  givingoutpoisons,  cesspools 
from  which  the  people  drink  and  die,  the  perpetual 
home  of  cholera,  a few  good  modern  buildings,  a 
Queen’s  College,  a government  institution.  Prince  of 
Wales  Hospital,  the  Town  Hall,  &c.  But  nature 
never  fails  in  India  to  clothe  all  desolations  with  her 
beauties,  as  if  instinctively  to  hide  man’s  self-wrought 
ruin.  The  thought  of  getting  away  from  the  intoler- 
able weariness  and  despairings  of  a city  almost  wholly 
given  to  idolatry  was  entrancing  ; so  we  set  our  faces 
toward  Calcutta.  The  country  has  the  same  general 
characteristics  already  described,  only  growing  more 
tropical  as  we  advance.  The  air  has  that  indescriba- 
ble mistiness  which  lends  enchantment  to  all  objects 
far  and  near.  Reaping  was  going  on  by  the  wayside, 
which  was  peculiar  in  that  men  and  women  reaped 
squatting,  so  that  when  a hundred  or  more  of  them 


463 


moved  on  it  was  a hoptoad  motion,  but  so  nimble  are 
they  that  they  work  in  this  painful  position  all 
day. 

The  first  hogs  seen  in  the  country  were  at  Benares ; 
to  whom  they  belonged  would  be  hard  to  even  sur- 
mise, for  the  Mohammedans  would  not  own  them,  and 
the  Brahmins  would  not  if  they  had  to  be  killed,  and 
it  could  hardly  be  imagined  that  they  were  kept 
merely  as  scavengers.  In  the  specimens  seen  was 
well  illustrated  a tendency  of  animal  life  in  the  coun- 
try to  go  back  to  original  types.  These  swine  were 
all  head  and  shoulders,  their  hinder  parts  being  very 
insignificant.  Their  hair  was  long  and  brindled;  their 
tails  reached  to  the  ground  and  were  straight.  The 
centre  of  gravity  had  been  moved  to  the  shoulders,  so 
that  in  running  fast,  if  their  snouts  struck  on  any 
object,  over  went  the  hind  end,  hoofs  over  appetite. 
This  is  also  apparent  in  dogs  brought  from  England 
— heavy  in  their  hinder  parts  at  first,  in  three  or  four 
years  they  will  go  all  to  head,  the  head  getting  dis- 
proportionately long  and  the  body  growing  slender ; 
an  evident  deterioration  toward  the  original  type. 

On  the  way  also  the  work  of  the  white  ants  is  seen ; 
an  institution  of  the  country.  They  keep  the  soil 
well  dug  up,  or  are,  in  other  words,  subsoilers.  Hun- 
dreds of  acres  in  places  are  burrowed  under  by  these 
insignificant  creatures, . and  turned  under  side  up 
ready  for  the  seed,  and  in  a country  where  no  good 
ploughing  is  done  their  value  as  agriculturists  can 
hardly  be  overestimated.  The  soil  is  renewed  by  these 
busy  creatures  which  had  only  been  scratched  by  the 
fork  of  a tree,  thp  longer  part  being  used  as  the  beam 
and  the  shorter  part  set  into  an  iron  socket  like  that 
of  a mortising  chisel;  a primitive  contrivance,  but 


464 


all  that  the  country  has  had  for  more  than  three 
thousand  years. 

But  these  white  ants  are  not  an  unmixed  blessing ; 
for  they  are  the  most  destructive  creatures  of  their 
size  ever  created.  They  eat  up  in  a few  days  the  thick 
beams  on  V7hich  rests  the  roof  of  a house  Were  it 
not  authenticated  by  the  best  of  proof  and  bad  we 
not  seen  the  wreck  of  timbers  it  would  be  incredible. 
The  roofs  of  houses  in  this  climate  are  very  hea\^  in 
order  to  keep  out  the  heat.  There  is  nearly  a foot  in 
thickness  of  clay  and  lime  mortar,  so  that  the  inmates 
live  in  the  shadows  of  terror,  for  beams  are  often  eaten 
up  to  the  whitewash  without  detection,  and  roofs  have 
fallen  down  without  warning  that  have  crushed  every 
life  below  them. 

There  are  but  two  kinds  of  wood  that  offer  them  re- 
sistance, and  these  not  always,  teak  and  pitch  pine. 
Many  are  using  iron  rails  as  the  only  perfect  security. 
But  this  is  not  all,  they  will  eat  furniture,  and  pic- 
tures on  the  wall  have  been  destroyed  in  a single 
night,  and  houses  built  of  clay  and  plastered  with 
lime  mortar  have  been  thrown  down,  as  have  been 
those  built  of  sun-dried  brick.  Even  hard  bricks  will 
net  always  withstand  them,  for  they  work  out  the 
mortar  from  between  or  undermine  the  foundations. 
There  is  no  overcoming  them,  and  they  are  admitted 
as  tenants  with  inalienable  rights. 

Another  of  the  calamities  which  waste  the  popula- 
tion is  the  abominable  water,  and  the  unclean  tastes 
and  habits  of  the  people  in  its  use.  They  believe  it 
has  self-purifying  power,  and  no  amount  of  filth  and 
animal  and  vegetable  putrefaction  will  deter  them 
from  drinking  it  and  using  it  in  the  preparation  of 
their  food.  The  village  pond,  in  which  they  all  wash 


465 


and  throw  decaying  and  dead  things,  is  so  horrible 
that  one  turns  from  ic  even  in  the  passing  train.  But 
with  all  the  mania  for  bathing  the  person,  they  are  about 
as  filthy  a people  as  can  be  found  on  the  globe.  Dirty 
clothes  are  both  honorable  and  religious.  The  women 
are  worse  in  this  respect  than  the  men,  and  the  reason 
they  give  for  their  revolting  dirtiness  is  that  outcast 
women  are  spotlessly  clean,  and  they  would  be  as  far 
from  them  in  every  respect  as  possible.  Therefore 
assured  virtue  consists  in  indissoluble  dirt. 

The  following  was  written  by  a native  who  had 
gotten  his  eyes  partially  open,  wide  enough  to  see  the 
truth  in  some  of  its  aspects,  at  least,  and  who  was  hon- 
est enough  to  tell  his  impressions  to  his  countrymen : 
Put  the  average  Indian  in  Paradise,  and  in  no  time 
he  will  make  it  a pig-sty ; for  dirt,  dust  and  flies  are 
to  him  what  the  water  is  to  the  fish.  If  you  doubt 
me,  look  to  your  sacred  city  of  Benares,  where  men 
and  women  go  in  quest  of  beatitude  in  this  earth  of 
misery,  or  to  your  red-ochred  Paris  of  India — Jaypore 
— where  in  spite  of  the  efforts  of  European  and  en- 
lightened native  ofllcers,  look  what  your  countrymen 
have  done  a few  steps  behind  the  main  street.  Or, 
better  still,  remember  how  some  years  ago  you  fought 
tooth  and  nail  against  the  introduction  of  pure  drink- 
ing water  into  Calcutta.  . . Ah,  my  friends!  we 

are  a tremendously  religious  people.  Put  a European 
in  a pig-sty,  and  he  will  soon  make  it  a place  that 
will  charm  the  eye  and  cheer  the  heart.  If  you  doubt 
me,  then  go  to  Sealdah  and  see  for  yourself  the  hum- 
ble cottages  where  the  employees  of  the  Eastern  Ben- 
gal Railway  have  made  the  naked  stem  of  the  cocoa- 
nut  blossom  in  all  shades  of  colors  and  the  land 
around  smile  as  the  flower-beds  of  Cashmere.  If  all 


466 


want  to  be  nice,  neat  and  tidy  you  can  imagine  what 
the  country  will  be.  Besmear  your  walls  with  betel 
leaf  spittings,  allow  the  spider  to  spread  its  net  from 
beam  to  beam,  let  cockroaches  live  in  peace  among 
your  boxes  and  vermin  suck  your  blood,  have  weeds 
to  cover  your  house,  a dirty  tank  to  poison  you,  and 
all  around  excrement  of  man  and  animal  as  fuel  for 
nature’s  decomposition,  and — Wl,  you  do  not  know 
that  there  is  any  thing  better  in  this  world.  So  go  on 
vaunting  about  your  cleanliness.  The  very  goddess 
of  cleanliness  ought  to  be  grateful  to  you  for  the 
trouble  you  take  in  rubbing  a little  oil  on  your  body 
and  plunging  into  a neighboring  cesspool.” 

But  strangest  of  all  is  that  all  the  animal  creatures 
here  are  beautiful  in  some  proportion  to  man’s  filth. 
The  crow  with  us  in  America  is  ugly ; here  he  is  beauti- 
ful, dove-colored  to  the  ruiddle  of  his  wings,  is  lively, 
familiar  and  happy,  and  exceedingly  smart.  A friend 
gave  us  an  incident,  or  rather  one  of  many,  of  his  ex- 
ceeding cleverness.  A crow  saw  a dog  gnawing  at  a 
bone  which  he  desired,  and  the  dog  not  being  willing 
to  part  with  it,  the  crow  hied  away  and  returned  with 
reinforcements.  One  sat  down  as  close  to  the  dog’s 
mouth  as  was  safe,  while  the  other  peeked  at  his  tail 
until  the  dog  lost  his  temper,  and  turning  quickly  on 
his  tormenter  lost  his  bone,  for  when  he  regained  his 
composure  the  two  crows  were  devouring  it  on  the 
top  of  a tree.  In  the  pastures,  on  the  backs  and  sides 
of  the  cattle,  the  crow  is  found  making  himself  at 
home.  This  is  generally  in  the  chilly  evenings  and 
mornings,  and  is  to  keep  his  feet  warm  in  the  hair 
of  the  animal  and  from  the  heat  of  his  body. 


CHAPTER  XLIIL 


CROSSING  THE  HOOGHLY. 

The  country  south  of  Benares  is  flat,  and  would  be 
ugly  but  for  its  tinted  atmosphere  and  countless 
palm  trees,  its  glorious  sunrises  and  gorgeous  draperies 
of  variegated  clouds  at  sunset.  The  people  in  the 
south  lands  are,  as  usual,  inferior  to  those  of  the 
north  in  almost  every  particular.  They  are  smaller, 
less  intelligent,  without  courage,  debased  and  grovel- 
ling. Heathenism  has  full  sway,  and  its  products  are 
the  illustrations  of  its  degrading  power.  The  towns 
by  the  way  are  populous,  wretched  and  dirty.  The 
great  fields  of  wheat  and  their  rich  harvest  odors 
were  grateful.  It  is  a country  without  living  streams, 
and  the  water  used  is  taken  from  ponds  and  hollows 
thick  with  mud  and  mantled  with  slime,  in  which 
hogs  and  cows  wallow  and  stand  and  the  natives 
bathe. 

Twenty  hours  south  by  rail  bring  the  pilgrim  to 
the  famous  river  Hooghly,  along  which  was  the  begin- 
ning of  Indo-English  history,  and  on  whose  banks  is 
the  famous  city  of  Calcutta.  A glorious  sunrising 
welcomed  us,  its  rays  glistening  on  the  ripples  of 
swiftly  moving  waters.  Here  was  encountered  a 
horde  of  moving,  gesticulating  life,  screaming  in 
the  Bengalese  language,  or  broken  and  inadequate 
English,  to  gain  the  eyes  and  pockets  of  the  tourists. 
This  historic  river  being  crossed  a new  centre  of  his- 
tory is  found.  Before  describing  this  heart,  whose 
throbbings  are  felt  around  the  world,  it  will  be  neces- 
sary to  show  how  Western  civilization,  an  antagonis- 

467 


468 


tic,  yet  life-giving  force,  was  introduced  through 
native  decay  and  what  would  have  been  final  death. 

India  on  the  map  looks  like  a triangular  penin- 
sula hanging  by  its  broad  side,  its  apex  washed 
by  the  sea.  It  is  encompassed  by  the  Himalayas, 
which  cut  off  India,  east  and  west,  from  the  rest  of 
the  Continent.  It  was  divided  by  its  Creator  into 
three  natural  divisions  by  two  great  rivers,  the  Indus 
and  Ganges,  one  flowing  into  the  Bay  of  Bengal  and 
the  other  into  the  Indian  Ocean.  The  other  division 
is  the  triangular  district,  two  of  whose  sides  are  washed 
by  the  sea.  The  base  is  formed  by  drawing  a line 
from  a little  south  of  the  mouth  of  the  Indus  to  the 
opposite  coast.  These  three  districts  are  known  as 
the  Punjab,  or  basin  of  the  Indus,  Bengal,  or  basin 
of  the  Ganges,  and  the  Deccan,  or  Southern  India. 
India  has  always  been  her  own  despot,  her  own  con- 
queror. The  hostilities  of  her  people  to  each  other  are 
without  parallel,  and  thousands  of  petty  ftuds  on  ac- 
count of  tribal  relations,  castes,  &c.,  have  always  invited 
invaders.  Any  brave  ten  thousand  men,  who  are 
bound  by  principle  or  greed,  can  conquer  her.  Besides 
the  rich  plains  and  genial  clime  have  always  tempted 
the  nations  of  the  North.  Her  more  than  two  hun- 
dred millions  have  lived  lor  centuries  on  a small  part 
of  her  fruitful  lands.  To  the  nations  beyond  the 
Himalayas  she  has  always  been  a land  flowing  with 
milk  and  honey.  It  has  been  both  her  fortune  and 
misfortune  that  there  was  any  opening  through  the 
Himalayas.  Her  mercy  and  her  misery  always  came 
by  the  Khyber  Pass.  Conquering  hosts  have  come 
through  Afghanistan  until  imagination,  running  back, 
is  itself  lost  in  the  mists  of  antiquity. 


When  Europe  was  in  barbarism  the  Hindus  had  a 
civilization  all  their  own.  They  had  a philosophy, 
poetry,  art  and  agriculture ; but  mere  culture  usually 
ends  in  imbecility.  They  were  cultivated  into  iner- 
vation;  courage  had  gone  out  of  them;  it  had 
perished  in  their  vices.  The  Afghans  spoiled  a 
people  already  decayed  by  luxury.  Their  attack 
was  made  in  the  time  when  'William,  the  Conqueror, 
was  swooping  down  upon  the  people  of  England. 
But  the  Afghans,  in  turn,  perished  in  the  luxury 
and  laziness  of  the  tropics ; they  died  on  the  field  of 
their  victories.  In  the  time  of  Henry  VIII.  they  went 
under  before  the  Moghuls,  the  first  of  whom  were  men 
of  brains  and  power,  and  in  the  sixteenth  and  seven- 
teen centuries  their  dynasties  were  brilliant  as  mighty; 
but  they  were  smitten  in  the  same  way  as  their  prede- 
cessors. The  Empire  dissolved.  Idleness  and  beastly 
indulgence  conquered  them.  The  first  despot  is 
always  a man  of  power,  or  he  would  not  get  there ; 
but  the  last  is  usually  an  imbecile,  the  illustration 
of  decay  of  the  virtues  and  the  product  of  the  vices 
of  his  greater  predecessors. 

This  condition  of  things  invited  conquerors  from 
the  far-ofl*  West.  They  had  gotten  foothold  in  the 
Empire  peacefully,  merely  as  merchants  and  manufac- 
turers. They  had  come  in  without  other  purpose  than 
to  better  their  fortunes  and  leave.  They  had  crept 
around  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  by  the  aid  of  idle  winds 
that  d’d  no  more  than  flap  a sail.  The  first  were 
Portuguese,  whose  blood  can  be  distinctly  traced  to 
this  day  in  its  mixture  with  the  natives.  The  Hol- 
landers came  next;  then  the  English  and  French. 
The  English  had  an  organized  existence  in  the  East 
India  Company,  which  was  formed  in  A.  D.  1600, 


470 


just  before  the  death  of  Queen  Elizabeth.  The  first 
factories  of  this  Company  were  at  Surat  and  Madras. 
Then  Bombay,  which  had  been  settled  by  the  Portu- 
guese, was  given  to  the  English,  and  the  three  focal 
points,  Madras,  Calcutta  and  Bombay,  are  to-day  the 
centres  of  influence  for  the  Western  invaders. 

The  French,  always  at  the  heels  of  the  English, 
were  making  settlements  and  getting  ready  to  contest 
their  claim  to  the  Empire.  India  had  first  fallen 
into  disorder,  then  into  a comatose  state,  in  which  she 
could  not  resist  approaching  political  death,  and  this 
state  of  things  gave  hope  and  opened  an  opportunity  of 
getting  rid  of  the  English  and  mastering  the  country. 
France  had  the  man  in  the  field,  Dupleix,  Governor 
of  Pondicherry,  a place  of  importance  on  the  South, 
still  occupied  by  the  French.  He  was  a man  of  great 
ability  and  foresaw  that  all  government  in  India  would, 
perish  through  the  idleness,  incompetency  and  petty 
rivalries  of  the  natives.  He  knew  that  soldiers  would 
be  in  lively  demand  ready  to  hire,  first,  to  one 
Nabob,  and  then  to  his  rival  until  both  would 
be  worn  out.  He  saw  that  soldiers  could  be  made 
out  of  the  natives  if  they  had  European  officers 
and  training ; he  could  do  what  he  pleased  in  In- 
dia. There  were  plenty  of  European  drill  sergeants 
and  leaders  waiting  to  be  hired,  who  were  not  par- 
ticular where,  nor  for  whom,  they  fought.  So  he 
soon  had  plenty  of  well* disciplined  troops,  not  cost- 
ing more  than  a penny  a day  each  person,  content 
if  they  got  no  more  than  the  rice  they  ate. 

The  English  were  not  idle  observers  of  the  move- 
ments of  the  French  (they  never  have  been),  and  had 
to  adopt  the  same  tactics  or  leave  the  country ; so  they 
hired  and  drilled  Sepoys.  But  the  French,  outside  of 


471 


France,  always  sacrifice  tlieir  opportunities.  They  can 
win  colonies,  but  cannot  keep  them ; so  Dupleix  was 
not  supported  and  was  finally  recalled,  and  John 
Bull  was  left  to  fight  it  out  and  to  change  the  face  of 
the  world,  and  to  deflect  the  course  of  history.  But  this 
was  not  done  without  blood. 

The  East  India  company  had  a young  clerk  who 
was  to  settle  the  destinies  of  two  hundred  and  fifty 
millions  of  people,  and  to  change  the  future  of  as  many 
more  east  and  west.  This  young  clerk  had  genius  which 
has  not  been  more  than  equalled  in  modern  times;  'but 
courage  and  great  genius  for  battle  were  not  the  half  of 
his  power,  he  was  a master  of  intrigue  and  diplomacy. 

The  matchless  Oriental  cunning /was  never  equal  to 
his  foresightedness.  This  was  Robert  Clive,  founder 
of  the  Anglo-Indian  Empire.  There  were  two  deter- 
mining battles  at  the  beginning  of  this  Franco- Angli- 
can struggle  which  have  become  famous  among  the 
moulding  forces  of  the  world.  The  first  fought  by  the 
English  was  by  Clive,  the  battle  of  Plassey,  1757,  in 
which  the  young  clerk  and  a thousand  English  and  three 
thousand  Sepoys  overwhelmed  twenty  thousand  led  a 
by  the  Nabob  of  Bengal,  who,  incited  by  the  French, 
had  attacked  the  English  and  destroyed  their  settle- 
I ments  on  the  Ganges  and  had  immured  the  East  India 
servants  in  the  celebrated  Black  Hole  of  Calcutta. 

The  second  battle  was  of  W andewash  in  1760  between 
the  English  and  French  commanded  by  the  famous 
soldier  Eyre  Coote,  but  counseled  by  Clive,  a battle 
which  disposed  of  all  the  hopes  of  French  domination 
in  India.  These  were  not  all  the  results  of  CKve's 
genius.  He  made  the  East  India  Company  practi- 
cally master  from  that  moment.  He  devised  the  plan  of 
leaving  the  conquered  rulers  to  play  with  their  titles 


472 


and  to  destroy  themselves  by  their  incomes,  but  the 
Brit’sh  kept  a hand  ever  on  the  helm.  This  Company 
never  set  aside  a native  government.  It  was  rapa- 
cious, but  extremely  modest,  and  consujned  a prince 
while  acting  as  his  agents.  The  changes  were  good 
for  the  captors,  but  hard  on  their  southern  cap- 
tives. 

This  brings  us  abreast  with  the  rule  of  the  great 
but  unprincipled  Warren  Hastings,  another  illustrious 
clerk.  He  was  from  a family  long  distinguished  in 
British  history,  made  an  orphan  by  the  loss  of  both 
parents,  and  was  wholly  dependent  upon  the  benevolence 
of  a grandfather.  He  was  born  with  a Jove  for  books.. 
He  lived  daily  in  sight  of  the  estates  which  his  an- 
cestors squandered,  and  which  in  his  boyish  desires  and 
dreams  he  determined  to  win  back.  He  formed  the 
scheme  when  seven  years  old,  lying  on  his  back  by  the 
Isis,  to  restore  them  again  to  the  family  name,  in  which 
purpose  he  never  faltered  through  all  the  vicissitudes  of 
his  eventful  career.  It  dominated  all  desires,  modified 
all  ambitions,  ruled  his  spirit  amidst  tropical  suns,  and 
led  him  to  control  one  hundred  millions  so  that  he  might 
gratify  his  life  passion  to  be  Hastings  of  Daylesford,  and 
though  he  had  reached  life’s  sunsetting  before  he  was 
master  of  his  long  coveted  possession,  here  at  last  he 
found  repose  and  here  he  died.  He  was  almost  a 
pigmy  in  size,  which  he  attribute  d to  bad  feeding  at 
school.  He  had  a wonderful  mind,  flashing  with 
genius,  self-possession,  and  an  indomitable  will.  He 
obtained  a clerkship  at  seventeen  years  of  age  in  the  East 
India  Company  and  sailed  to  Bengal  to  engage  in  his 
duties.  So  Calcutta  became  the  Fcene  and  centre  of 
this  great  man’s  career,  audacious,  illustrious  and 
cruel. 


At  the  desk  of  the  Company  in  Calcutta  he  labored 
two  years,  after  which  he  was  sent  up  the  Hooghly, 
about  a mile  from  a place  known  as  Moorshedabad. 
This  was  a city  of  the  Prince,  ’i^'ho  by  an  authority 
ostensibly  derived  from  the  Moghul,  but  really  inde- 
pendent, ruled  the  three  great  Provinces  of  Bengal, 
Orissa  and  Bahar.  Here  the  company  had  established 
a small  factory,  and  Hastings  employed  himself  -in 
bargaining  for  materials  with  the  natives.  While  he 
was  here  Surajah  Doulah  succeeded  to  the  govern- 
ment and  declared  war  against  the  English.  Hastings 
was  sent  a prisoner  to  Moorshedabad,  but  through  the 
intervention  of  the  Dutch  Company  was  treated 
humanely.  The  Nabob  marched  on  to  Calcutta  and 
most  of  the  English  prisoners  perished  in  the  Black 
Hole.  The  Governor  w^as  shut  up  at  Tulda,  and  be- 
ing desirous  of  knowing  how  the  hostile  Nabob  was 
getting  on  he  employed  Hastings  to  keep  him  posted, 
and  by  this  opportunity  he  became  a diplomat  as 
shrewd  and  far-sighted,  as  insincere  and  treacherous 
as  any  native  could  be.  Clive  came  to  the  rescue,  and 
Hastings,  inspired  by  the  success  of  the  clerk,  deter- 
mined to  make  his  own  life  as  illustrious,  and  to  this 
end  joined  the  ranks  in  the  successful  battle  of  Plassey, 
followed  the  Nabob,  w’ho  was  discomfited.  Meer  Jafiier 
succeeded  him  and  Hastings  was  appointed  to  reside 
at  the  court  of  the  Prince  as  agent  of  the  Company.. 
He  afterwards  became  a member  of  the  Council,  and 
was  in  consequence  returned  to  Calcutta. 


CHAPTER  XLIV. 


WARREN  HASTINGS,  THE  BUILDER  OF  THE  BRITISH 
EMPIRE  IN  INDIA. 

INDIA  is  tlie  country  of  all  others  where  the  best 
and  worst  qualities  of  the  Anglo-Saxon  have 
entered  into  history.  The  most  appalling  spectacle  the 
world  beholds  is  the  strength  of  civilization  without 
its  mercy.  And  this  condition  has  made  the  evils  of 
submission  a greater  curse  than  resistance.  But  resis- 
tance in  Bengal  was  impossible.  English  rule  in  the 
days  of  Hastings  had  the  power  without  the  restraint 
of  conscience,  and  hardly  of  decency.  It  wrung  life 
dry,  squeezing  the  'last  drop  that  would  bring  a price 
in  the  market.  But  Hastings  was  made  repulsive  to 
the  world  through  the  rapacity  of  his  masters  in 
England.  If  he  had  been  left  to  himself  he  would 
have  been  above  the  average  in  justice,  if  not  in 
humanity..  He  never  lost  his  love  for  letters  and 
his  generosity  to  his  family.  He  was  appreciated 
by  that  autocrat  of  letters,  Johnson.  He  returned 
to  England  for  four  years  a recognized  statesman, 
a man  of  integrity,  with  a genius  for  government. 
It  was  not  till  after  his  return  that  the  cloud  began 
to  lower  upon  his  fair  name. 

In  1769  he  embarked  for  his  future  career,  so  dark 
and  so  unrelieved  by  nobility  and  humanity.  He  found 
the  affairs  of  the  Company  at  Madras  in  a bad  condi- 
tion. So  the  politician  and  statesman  was  reduced  to 
a financial  agent  to  devise  ways  and  means  of  ingenious 
extortion.  This  pleased  the  Company,  and  he  was 
placed  at  the  head  of  the  government  of  Bengal. 


475 


There  were  no  restraints  on  the  Company  except  what 
glimmerings  of  conscience  might  remain  to  them, 
which  in  a contest  with  greed,  where  the  cries  of  the 
victim  could  not  be  heard,  nor  his  woes  seen,  were  sure 
to  be  extinguished.  The  English  for  a long  time  held 
their  power  nominally  as  vassals,  but  they  really  exer- 
cised it  as  rapacious  despots.  The  Nabob  in  Bengal, 
whose  name  appeared  in  documents,  was  fed  into 
impotence,  so  that  he  would  care  more  for  his  belly 
than  his  estates.  The  power  of  the  Governor  was  that 
of  a dependency,  which  could  be  restrained  or  over- 
ruled on  the  gravest  questions. 

The  Company  did  not  trouble  itself  much  about 
police;  the  administration  of  justice  and  the  details 
of  the  collection  of  revenues  were  neglected.  It 
was  forever  intriguing  for  the  extension  of  territory 
and  political  power.  The  ostensible  government  of 
Bengal  was  in  the  hands  of  a native  minister, 
at  Moorshedabad,  to  whom  every  thing  was  con- 
fided but  military  and  foreign  affairs.  His  own  allow- 
ance was  one  hundred  thousand  pounds  sterling  a year, 
and  he  had  the  control  of  the  income  of  the  Nabob, 
amounting  to  more  than  three  hundred  thousand 
pounds  annually.  For  this  and  the  collection  of 
revenues  and  the  administration  of  justice  he  was 
responsible  to  none  but  his  British  masters.  Such 
an  office  would  arouse  the  cupidity  of  an  Oriental  to 
the  highest  pitch. 

The  most  powerful  aspirant  for  this  place  was 
Mohamed  Reza  Khan,  of  Persian  origin  and  a Mo- 
hammedan— this  will  show  one  side  of  the  case. 
His  rival  was  a Hindu  Brahmin,  whose  name  in 
death  has  been  twisted  into  the  strands  of  the  history 
of  Hastings.  He  was  an  unprincipled  schemer  ' 


4.0 


and  made  every  thing  focalize  upon  himself.  After 
the  defeat  of  Surajah  Doulah  he  had  his  head 
and  hands  in  all  affairs.  His  force  operated  through 
the  channel  of  his  cunning;  a servile  life  had  devel- 
oped only  the  qualities  of  the  fox.  He  could  manage 
to  cut  off  the  skirts  of  the  garments  of  kings  without 
their  knowing  it.  This  is  to  this  .day  the  character 
of  the  Bengalese.  But  Bengal  had  no  soldiers  and  no 
manliness. 

This  Maharajah  Nun  comar  had  all  these  quali- 
ties; he  was  cruel,  lying  and  utterly  unprincipled 
in  his  intrigues,  always  plotting  against  the  Eng- 
lish and  anybody  else  that  stood  in  the  way  of  his 
ambitions.  He  was,  as  usual,  of  high  caste,  and  was 
regarded  by  the  people  as  a paragon  of  holiness.  He 
carried  his  intrigues  to  London  and  ingratiated  himself 
with  the  Company  in  England.  Hastings  was  advised 
to  use  him,  which  was  not  according  to  his  tastes,  for 
even  then  there  was  little  else  between  them  but  dis- 
guised hostility.  This  gave  Hastings,  who  was  never 
wanting  in  an  expedient,  an  occasion  to  break  up  the  dual 
mode  of  government  in  Bengal.  Mohamed  Reza  Khan, 
who  had  been  Governor  seven  years  when  Hastings 
became  Governor,  against  whom  the  sneaking  Maha- 
rajah had  plotted,  was,  by  order  of  the  Company, 
removed  and  imprisoned,  and  with  him  Schilab  Roy, 
a brave  man,  who  had  fought  heroically  for  the  British. 
They  were  prisoners,  treated  with  respect,  while 
Hastings  completed  his  revolution.  The  double 
government  was  dissolved  and  the  Company  installed 
in  full  sovereignty  in  Bengal.  The  office  of  min- 
ister was  abolished,  and  a system  of  civil  and  crimi- 
nal justice,  under  English  superintendence,  was  estab- 
lished. The  Nabob  was  not  even  to  have  an  osten- 


477 


sible  share  in  the  government,  but  was  to  have  his 
allowance,  and  was  permitted  to  play  sovereign 
under  the  espionage  of  guardians. 

A son  of  the  unprincipled  Maharajah  Nuncomar 
was  made  treasurer.  This  was  the  turning  on 
him  of  his  own  tactics;  he  could  not  be  spared, 
nor  trusted,  and  the  sop  he  wanted  for  himself 
was  given  to  his  son.  These  changes  being  accom- 
plished and  the  Maharajah  beaten  at  his  own  game, 
the  prisoners  were  acquitted  and  released  in  great 
dignity  and  with  apologies.  The  Maharajah  Nuncomar 
did  his  best  to  have  them  destroyed.  This  was  owing 
to  Brahminical  hate  to  the  Mohammedan,  and  the 
design  was  to  accomplish  his  ends  by  this  overthrow. 
But  Hastings  had  in  turn  used  him,  and  had  accom- 
plished what  he  desired.  All  his  intriguing  and  lying  in 
London  against  his  Mohammedan  rivals  came  to  noth- 
ing ; and  worse  than  all,  the  government  was  trans- 
ferred from  Moorshedabad  to  Calcutta,  and  changed 
from  native  to  European  hands,  while  his  enemies  had 
been  set  at  liberty,  and  showered  with  honors  and 
apologies. 

Hastings  then  turned  aside  to  money-getting.  His 
masters  in  England  must  have  a heavy  quota  above 
the  expenses  of  the  government.  Money  and  morals 
were  alike  demanded ; but  a man  of.  Hastings’  percep- 
tions could  easily  see  that  the  morals  were  only  the  ass 
on  which  rested  the  needed  booty.  The  morals,  being 
interpreted  along  side  of  the  demands  for  money, 
would  read,  “ Be  fatherly  and  oppressive,  be  just  and 
unjust,  moderate  and  rapacious.”  He  was  not  long 
in  determining  that  morals  without  money  would  not 
sustain  Governors ; so  he  reduced  the  allowance  of  the 
Nabob  of  Bengal  from  three  hundred  and  twenty 


478  . 


thousand  pounds  a year  to  the  half  of  it,  notwithstand- 
ing that  the  Company  had  pledged  this  amount  to  the 
great  Moghul  in  lieu  of  the  provinces  which  he  had 
given  up,  and  had  added  the  districts  of  Corah  and 
Allahabad.  But  Hastings  now  announced  that  the 
English  would  take  immediate  military  possession  of 
the  ceded  provinces,  and  were  determined  to  get  rid  of 
them  to  the  highest  bidder.  The  province  of  Oudh, 
at  the  breaking  up  of  the  Moghul  dynasty,  had  come 
into  possession  of  the  great  Mussulman  House.  This 
Surajah  Doulah,  the  Nabob  Vizier,  was  rich,  and 
Allahabad  and  Corah  were  just  what  he  wanted,  and 
they  were  worth  nothing  to  Hastings  or  the  Company. 
The  provinces,  therefore,  were  transferred  to  him  for 
a half  million  of  pounds  sterling. 

The  sale  was  made,  but  the  possession  of  property 
is  always  nine  points  in  law.  How  to  get  rid  of  the 
bravest  people  in  India  was  a problem  that  could  only 
be  solved  by  infamy.  Among  the  invaders  originally 
from  beyond  the  Himalayas  were  the  Rohillas, 
heroic  people  virtually  independent.  They  wero 
unlike  the  Hindus  in  their  beauty  of  form  and  fair- 
ness of  skin.  They  were  soldiers  in  danger  and 
prosperous  in  peace,  and  loved  either  according  to  the 
exigencies  of  their  situation.  During  the  last  throes 
of  the  dissolving  Moghul  Empire  they  were  in  the 
midst  of  peace  and  prosperity.  Surajah  Doulah  was 
the  Ahab  and  England,  through  Hastings,  played 
the  part  of  Jezebel.  There  was  no  more  justice  in 
this  than  in  the  Old  Testament  outrage.  But  the 
beautiful  vale  of  Rohilicund  must  be  wrested  and 
given  as  a morsel  to  avarice.  There  were  no  natural 
defences,  but  the  Afghan  had  too  much  courage 
to  be  conquered  by  any  native  soldiery;  none  but 


479 


English  troops  could  do  it.  So  the  Surajah  began  to 
negotiate  for  the  English  troops  to  massacre  the  best 
subjects  England  had  in  India ; and  he  was  successful. 
An  English  army  was  to  be  sent  to  perform  one  of 
the  basest  tragedies  th«t  man  or  devil  could  conceive 
— the  price  of  blood  ws  s four  hundred  thousand  pounds 
sterling  and  the  expenses  of  the  troops. 

England  during  her  history  has  not  been  averse  to 
hiring  troops  to  fight  her  own  kin ; but  this  is  the 
first  time,  to  our  knowledge,  when  she  hired  out  her 
own  troops  to  inhuman  work.  Three  brigades  were 
marched  ofiT  to  a butchery  as  horrible  as  that  of  the 
Sepoys  in  the  massacre  of  English  men  and  women  in 
Cawnpore,  at  which  the  world,  after  thirty  years  stands 
aghast.  The  Rohillas  pleaded  not  to  be  obliged  to 
fight  the  soldiers  of  the  government  to  which  they 
had  ever  been  loyal.  A large  sum  of  money  could 
not  buy  peace ; so  they  determined  to  make  it  cost 
England  as  much  as  possible  in  the  blood  of  her  sons. 
The  cowardly  Surajah  Doulah  fled  with  his  butchers, 
and  the  English  h ad  to  fight  the  b attl  e alone.  Only  when 
all  their  leaders  had  fallen  did  the  Rohillas  weaken. 
After  the  day  had  been  gained  the  merciless  wretches, 
for  whom  England  in  the  person  of  her  brutal  Gover- 
nor fought,  reappeared  to  despoil  and  mutilate  the  slain. 
More  than  one  hundred  thousand  of  the  conquered 
took  refuge  in  the  mountains  and  jungles,  to  perish 
by  disease,  hunger  or  wild  beasts,  any  of  which  forms 
of  death  was  a blessed  relief  from  the  rule  of  the 
inhuman  and  hated  Vizier  and  his  English  confeder- 
ates, who  had  sold  them  for  pounds,  shillings  and 
pence. 

The  British  ofiicers  tried  to  stay  further  brutality  to 
the  remnant,  and  appealed  to  Hastings,  who  said  he 


480 


could  not  dictate  to  the  Nabob,  nor  permit  the  com- 
mander of  the  troops  to  dictate  how  the  war  ought  to 
be  carried  oh and  so  ended  the  second  tableau  of 
Hastings  Gubernatorial  career.  The  noblest  race  in 
India  was  crushed,  and  their  prosperous  province  was  so 
- blighted  that  it  became  a waste.  But  a remnant  of  the 
people  lived,  and  traces  of  its  nobility  are  yet  perceived 
in  their  hatred  to  England,  while  all  that  can  be  said 
of  Hastings,  or  of  his  country,  is  that  it  was  a finan- 
cial success.  There  is  one  more  act  in  the  Hastings 
drama,  then  our  readers  will  have  a general  impression 
of  the  way  the  foundation  of  the  Indo-British  Empire 
was  laid  and  the  policy  of  its  upbuilding  outlined. 

During  the  ministry  of  Lord  North  there  were 
brought  into  the  Parliament  what  was  thought  would 
be  reforms  in  the  government  of  the  Indian  depen- 
dency. The  bill,  known  as  the  Regulating  Act,  or- 
dered that  the  Presidency  of  Bengal  should  dominate 
the  affairs  of  the  Company,  and  that  the  head  of  that 
Company  should  be  Governor-General.  A Council 
was  provided  of  four  members,  and  a Supreme  Court 
of  Justice,  with  a Supreme  Judge  and  three  others, 
which  should  be  maintained  at  Calcutta,  and  this 
Court,  independent  of  the  Governor-General  and  Coun- 
cil, had  unlimited  civil  and  criminal  jurisdiction.  The 
Governor-General  and  Councillors  were  appointed  for 
five  years,  consisting  of  Hastings,  Governor-General; 
Barwell,  a servant  of  the  Company,  Clavering,  Monson 
and  Francis,  who  is  believed  to  be  the  author  of  the 
celebrated  letters  of  Junius,  which  shook  England. 
Francis  was  the  man  of  brains  and  knowledge,  and  as 
determined  as  brainy.  The  two  new  ruling  bodies 
were  installed  in  their  several  departments,  but  they 
never  would  stay  there ; meddling  and  intermeddling 


431 


were  the  code  of  Court  and  Council.  The  Chief  Jus- 
tice Impey  belonged  to  Hastings  soul,  body,  ears  and 
appetite. 

The  Council  was  never  in  a good  humor,  and  Hast- 
ings disliked  it  thoroughly,  and  the  chronic  dissen- 
sion began  which  convulsed  India  and  occasioned  more 
eloquence  in  Parliament  for  eight  years  than  any 
other  event,  unless  it  was  the  contest  over  the 
American  colonies.  Clavering,  Monson  and  Francis 
seized  the  government,  and  justified  the  act  in  Eng- 
land and  India  by  the  atrocious  proceedings  of  Hast- 
ings in  selling  the  English  army  to  the  Nabob  Vizier, 
the  butchery  of  the  Rohillas  and  other  matters  of  the 
Oovernor’s  jurisdiction.  They  recalled  the  troops  from 
the  Nabob’s  service,  exercised  authority  over  the  sub- 
ordinate presidencies,  until  life  and  property  were 
in  constant  peril. 

The  Hindus  were  quick  to  understand  the  weakness 
of  the  government.  They  sat  like  wolves  watching  a 
dying  bufifalo,  thinking  their  time  had  come.  They 
began  at  the  strongest  personality  in  India,  whom 
they  had  fawned  upon  and  feared,  as  mice  will  gnaw 
the  paw  of  a dying  lion.  Charges  began  to  come 
into  too  eager  ears.  And  now  the  occasion  came  to 
the  old  intriguing  scoundrel,  Nuncomar,  the  Brahmin. 

He  furnished  Francis  with  evidence  against  Hast- 
ings, with  a seriousness  becoming  the  final  judgment, 
charging  him  with  accepting  bribes  and  other  offences. 
He  could  not  let  the  affair  of  the  release  of  Mohamed 
Reza  Khan  from  prison  with  great  honor  and  many 
apologies  pass.  So  he  presented  an  amended  edition 
of  his  charges,  in  which  Hastings  was  represented  as 
receiving  a great  ransom.  Francis  read  it  and  it 
raised  a storm  in  Council.  The  Governor-General  in 


4S2 


turn  denounced  Kuncomar,  and  rejected  the  authority 
of  the  Council  in  such  matters;  he  declared  the  sit- 
ting at  an  end  and  left.  Nun  comar  braced  his  lies  by 
other  and  bigger  ones,  as  is  the  Oriental  habit.  Out- 
siders were  with  the  General ; they  knew  his  work  and 
saw  the  disorder  which  must  follow  from  the  loss  of 
his  power.  There  was  an  appeal  to  the  government  at 
London,  and  if  that  went  against  him  he  was  undone. 
He  sent  Lis  resignation,  with  instructions  that  it 
should  not  be  used  unless  the  company  was  against 
him.  Nuncomar  was  jubilant,  but  he  did  not  know 
that  he  was  playing  with  a threshing  machine ; a man  • 
whose  ingenuity  was  ever  equal  to  his  adversities.  He 
had  not  thought  that  in  Bengal  there  was  a court  as 
'well  as  a Council. 

Through  the  influence  of  Hastings  this  court  was 
none  too  well  disposed  to  the  autocratic  Council. 
The  chief  justice  belonged. to  him.  One  bright  day 
all  India  was  confounded  at  the  arrest  of  Nuncomar 
upon  the  accusation  that  six  years  before  he  had 
forged  a bond.  The  Council  was  frenzied  and  de- 
manded that  he  should  be  admitted  to  bail,  but  the 
iudges  were  immovable.  Nun  comar  was  brought 
before  Chief  Justice  Impey,  and  a jury  of  Englishmen 
and  pronounced  guilty.  The  law  was  made  for  Eng- 
land, and  conviction  for  forgery  had  never  been  heard 
of  in  India,  but  it  suited  the  code  of  revenge.  It  was 
impossible  in  the  eyes  of  the  natives  that  a man  of  high 
caste  should  be  hung.  According  to  their  law  a Brah- 
min could  not  so  suffer  for  any  crime.  The  Mohamme- 
dans were  on  the  side  of  the  Governor-General  and 
the  court.  They  remembered  the  malignity  of  Nun 
comar  to  their  co-religionist,  Mohamed  Riza  Khan 
Nuncomar  met  his  fate  with  great  fortitude  ; not  an^ 


483 


audible  murmur  was  heard.  Hastings  was  ahead 
and  again  master  of  Court  and  Council.  He  no  doubt 
excused  it  as  a war  measure,  and  all  India  feared  and 
fawned  upon  the  man  who  could  subdue  his  ene- 
mies in  such  a magnificent  fashion.  Their  faces  were 
again  turned  from  the  setting  to  the  rising  sun.  The 
trial  of  Hastings  in  London,  one  of  the  events  of  the 
century  followed,  unequaled  in  forensic  strife  and 
ability.  After  eight  years  contention  he  was  acquitted. 
But  he  had  laid  the  foundations  of  the  British  Empire 
in  India.  Politically,  England  owes  more  to  him  than 
to  any  ruler  who  ever  labored  for  his  country’s  glory. 
Morally,  our  readers  can  judge  for  themselves. 

We  have  gathered  these  facts  from  reliable  authori- 
ties, that  the  true  relations  of  England  to  India  may 
appear. 


CHAPTER  XLV. 

CALCUTTA  AND  ITS  ENVIRON 3IENTS. 

• 

Calcutta  is  the  most  European  city  in  India. 

The  European  part  of  it  is  the  most  prominent. 
The  native  quarters  appear  to  be  on  the  outskirts. 
January  is  the  height  of  the  pleasure  season.  It  is 
winter  when  the  mercury  stands  at  sixty-five,  but  one 
cannot  dismiss  the  thought  of  eternal  summer.  The 
trees  are  green ; the  flowers  bloom ; the  fruits  are  abun- 
dant. The  part  of  the  city  which  best  presents  the 
native  home  in  Southern  India  is  on  Chittypore  Road. 
It  is  a continuous  bazaar,  in  which  is  to  be  found  every 
queerly  shapen  thing  on  earth ; every  oddity  in  mechan- 
ism and  life  representing  all  countries.  These  little 
shops  are  about  ten  feet  square  and  five  or  six  in 


height.  They  are  receptacles  for  native  trinkets, 
bracelets  for  the  arms  and  ankles,  &c. 

It  is  said  that  it  takes  nine  tailors  to  make  a man; 
the  saying  must  have  originated  in  India,  for  a dozen 
natives  would  weigh  no  more  than  an  average  Eng 
lishman.  They  sit  crossed-legged  like  their  fellows 
the  world  over.  Small  as  they  are  they  project  over 
on  the  sideway,  so  that  they  can  scarcely  be  passed  with- 
out dragging  their  spindle-legs  first  one  way  and  then 
the  other,  according  to  the  direction  of  the  passer  by. 
They  were,  so  far  as  we  could  observe,  all  sewing 
muslin,  andthis  will  benosurprise  when  we  remembered 
that  a native  is  well-dressed  on  fifteen  cents.  If  he 
have  a shirt  reaching  to  his  knees  he  belongs  to  the  well- 
to-doclass  of  society.  He  is  a citizen  fairly  well  off  if 
he  have  enough  muslin  to  tie  around  his  loins. 

Other  shops  glittered  with  tinsel  head-gear  for 
stylish  native  men.  There  were  also  gilded  slippers 
to  match.  There  was  in  one  of  these  bazaars  an 
old  time  regulation  picture  of  George  Washington. 
It  was  one  of  the  many,  amazements,  ever  recurring 
in  this  strange  land,  where  marvels  grow  as  fruits 
of  the  country,  how  it  ever  got  there,  and  stranger  still 
it  was  on  Cornwallis  street.  The  keeper  of  the  bazaar 
informed  us  that  he  had  been  a sailor.  He  was  about 
half  Portuguese,  spoke  English,  and  was  better  versed 
in  the  world’s  affairs  than  most  natives.  The  question 
as  to  how  George  Washington  got  so  far  away  from 
home  was  propounded  for  an  answer,  knowing  that  it 
was  against  native  principles  to  say,  “ I don’t  know.” 
He  said,  with  great  gravity,  “ It  was  taken  from  the 
wreck  of  an  American  ship,”  which  w^as  probable 
enough,  but  he  said  that  he  found  it  and  knew  its  value 
when  nobody  else  did.  He  declared  that  it  was  very 


485 


dear  to  him,  and  putting  his  hand  to  his  bare  and  hairy 
breast  as  if  in  an  agony  of  emotion,  asserted  that  he 
esteemed  it  the  greatest  event  of  his  life  to  find  in  his 
home  an  American  who  would  give  him  the  worth  of 
this  wonderful  picture,  and  take  it  back  again  to  its 
home. 

“ O,”  said  he,  “ I could  weep  over  the  loneliness  of  that 
picture.  If  we  had  had  such  a man  to  do  so  much 
for  us  in  India  we  would  kiss  the  dust  on  which  he 
walked  ; but,”  said  he,  “ your  countrymen  don’t  de- 
serve such  a country  and  such  freedom.  If  they  did 
they  never  would  let  the  picture  of  the  Father  of  their 
Country  stay  so  long  so  far  from  home.  It  is  enough 
to  bring  on  you  the  downfall  of  your  great  country,” 
and  then  he  assumed  the  attitude  and  look  of  unspeak- 
able pity.  “But,”  said  he,  ‘ I think  I see  a nobler 
specimen  of  America,  that  proud  country,  that  coun- 
try of  aspirations,  that  country  of  the  all-conquer- 
ing eagle,  the  noblest  bird,  in  whose  beak  is  held 
the  destiny  of  liberty.  You  can  have  the  proud  dis- 
tinction of  taking  to  its  native  skies  the  picture  of  the 
Father  of  his  Country.  I feel  that  you  have  come  to 
my  bazaar  to  save  the  honor  of  America.” 

The  reply  was  not  reassuring  and  enlivening.  The 
stranger  was  provokingly  cool.  He  said  that  he  was 
delighted  to  meet  such  overwhelming  regard  for  the 
picture  of  the  Father  of  his  Country,  and  so  much 
love  for  Americans  and  the  American  eagle,  which 
was  a bird  of  considerable  proportions,  and  when  he 
spread  himself  on  the  Fourth  of  July,  and  soared  until 
with  a spy-glass  one  could  hardly  see  the  tip  of  his 
tail,  he  still  had  an  eye  that  scorned  the  brightness 
of  the  sun,  and  as  for  the  moon,  he  sat  on  his  legs 
and  winked  at  it  as  an  owl  blinks  at  a lucifer  match. 


486 


The  man  was  overcome  but  for  a moment.  And  then 
said  he  wished  the  gentleman  from  America  would 
get  him  some  of  those  eagle’s  eggs.  He  would  have 
them  hatched  for  India,  where,  he  replied,  he  could  look 
on  the  sun  all  the  time.  Said  he,  “ I will  give  you 
the  picture  of  the  sublime  Father  of  your  Country 
and  will  take  for  it  the  eggs  of  your  great'  American 
eagle.  When  they  reach  Calcutta  I will  send  the 
picture  on  the  first  American  steamer.  I will  have  it 
well-covered  so  the  gilding  will  not  rub,  for  the 
American  ships  are  such  ‘ leetle  tinks.’  ” We  were  not 
insensible  to  the  thrust  at  the  great  American  navy, 
and  this  was  also  an  extinguisher  on  the  great  Ameri- 
can eagle. 

In  reply,  for  he  was  waiting  with  his  eyes  fixed  upon 
the  floor,  we  assured  him  that  the  great  American 
eagle  was  ot  the  male  persuasion,  and  could  not  do 
much  in  the  way  of  laying  eggs ; he  had  to  look  after 
the  afiairs  of  the  nation  in  the  skies.  But  our  states- 
men often  sat  on  things  and  did  a great  deal  of  hatch- 
ing. He  looked  on  the  floor  again  and  then  said,  “ You 
have  more  love  for  the  great  American  eagle  than 
for  the  Father  of  your  Country.  I see  how  I missed 
it  in  having  so  much  moneys  in  that  picture ; I ought  to 
have  bought  a picture  of  the  great  American  eagle, 
and  then  the  gentleman  pay  me  greater  moneys  than 
for  the  Father  of  His  Country,  ze  noble  George  Wash- 
ington, what  fought  for  American  liberty  and  con- 
quered the  British  before  the  great  American  eagle  was 
hatched,  somewhere  in  the  great  American  clouds.” 

By  this  time  the  American  needed  somebody  to  help 
him  let  go  his  Indian  shopkeeper.  He  said,  You 
ought  not  to  sell  that  picture  of  George  Washington. 
I"  exactly  suits  Cornwallis  Street.  Some  unseen  hand 


487 


and  wiser  mind  must  have  guided  you  to  bring  it  here. 
That  picture  is  for  the  saving  of  India.  You  don’t 
know  how  much  you  are  losing  in  the  sale  of  this 
picture  of  Washington.  When  he  was  a little  boy  his 
father  gave  him  a little  hatchet,  and  he  used  it  on  his 
father’s  cherry  tree.  His  father  said,  ‘ George,  what 
did  you  do  with  my  cherry  tree  ?’  ‘ I barked  it,  sir.’  He 
would  not  tell  a lie  for  one  cherry  tree.  I doubt  if 
he  would  have  told  a lie  for  two  or  three.  His  father 
was  greatly  pleased  at  the  thought  of  a son  who  would 
not  lie  for  two  or  more  cherry  trees,  and  to  show  his 
appreciation  of  his  son’s  truthfulness  he  did  not  whip 
him,  but  kept  thinking  that  he  would  come  to  some- 
thing great  some  day.  Now  you  ought  to  keep  in 
India  the  picture  of  a man  who  would  not  lie  for  a 
cherry  tree.  You  ought  to  take  it  and  hang  it  up  in 
your  temple.  You  might  make  money  in  taking  it 
about  as  a show ; everybody  would  pay  a rupee  in 
India  to  see  the  picture  of  a man  who  would  not  lie ; 
the  fact  is  it  would  be  the  greatest  novelty  in  the  Em- 
pire. No,  sir.  I would  think  that  in  the  condition  of 
of  your  country  it  would  be  wicked  to  buy  that  pic- 
ture. I have  too  much  interest  in  your  people  to  re- 
move from  Cornwallis  street  the  picture  of  George 
Washington.  You  ought  to  study  that  physiognomy, 
for  when  the  people  of  India  get  in  the  notion  of 
telling  the  truth,  even  about  their  hatchets  and  cherry 
trees,  there  will  be  a revolution.  Beside  all  this,  you 
hope  to  conquer  the  English  and  to  drive  them  out 
of  the  country.  That  face  of  George  Washington, 
in  parting  with  which  you  are  so  foolish  and  disloyal 
to  your  race,  is  the  only  one  the  British  ever  feared. 
He  did  the  business  for  Cornwallis  and  the  rest  of 
them,  and  if  you  wish  to  get  rid  of  the  British 


488 


you  must  not  tell  lies.  You  must  be  brave  as 
Washington,  and  learn  to  stand  in  line  Tv-ith 
moral  principles,  and  if  needful  to  smell  powder. 
Do  you  understand  ? I will  never  do  India  such  a 
wrong  as  to  buy  the  only  picture  of  George- 
Washington  in  it.” 

The  Oriental  barber  is  an  institution  by  himself. 
He  carries  with  him  his  shop,  as  does  the  land  turtle 
his  house,  and  squats  wherever  he  finds  a man 
unshaven,  with  cash  enough  to  pay  for  ids  services. 
The  bathing  places  are  sought,  and  when  a bargain  is 
made  they  both  seat  themselves  in  the  dust,  and  the  face 
mowing  begins.  The  barber  has  no  visions  of  butcher’s 
bills,  nor  of  landlords.  He  sniffs  the  fragrant  morn 
ing  air  in  the  truest  elements  of  a freeman — free  from 
shoes,  clothes  and  care.  He  is  the  man  to  consider 
the  lilies,  and  as  for  Solomon’s  being  “ arrayed”  he  gave 
no  care  to  that,  for  if  he  were  he  would  be  out  of 
fashion  in  India. 

The  drinking  vessel  is  the  most  important  article  in 
life;  everybody  has  one.  If  there  is  no  covering- 
to  his  personality  but  the  mystic  draperies  of  the 
skies  there  will  be  a copper  or  brass  vessel  out  of 
which  he  drinks.  This  is  polished  on  all  occasions, 
frequently  in  the  mud-puddles  of  the  street.  If 
the  owner  be  a Mohammedan  he  will  not,  if  he  can 
help  it,  let  even  this  touch  his  lips,  but  from  it  pours 
the  contents  down  his  throat,  holding  it  a foot  or  more 
from  his  lips,  letting  it  dribble  into  his  mouth  with  the 
precision  of  a Wimbledon  rifleman  firing  at  his  target. 
The  same  washing  of  pots  and  vessels  goes  on  spoken 
of  so  often  in  Bible  times,  especially  of  the  “outside  of 
the  cup  and  the  platter.”^ 

The  Hindu  has  somewhat  modified  the  Mohammedan, 


but  has  been  greatly  modified  by  him,  the  weaker  always 
succumbing  to  the  stronger,  even  in  the  most  unchange- 
able sanctities  of  his  religion.  One  of  the  greatest 
industries  in  Indian  towns  and  cities  is  the  making  of 
copper  and  brass  vessels,  and  the  clink  of  the  tinkers 
hammer  is  heard  on  all  the  streets  of  the  natives. 
These  vessels  are  shaped  on  an  iron  form  not  unlike 
the  horn  of  an  anvil,  and  the  makers  have,  no  doubts 
continued  in  their  craft,  making  no  change  in  shape, 
material  or  workmanship,  since  the  days  of  the  world’s 
childhood,  when  Tubal  Cain  started  a shop  somewhere 
on  the  Valley  of  the  Euphrates  under  the  curtains  of 
the  skies. 

The  European  of  Calcutta  quarters  are  outlined 
by  Chouringhee  Road  and  the  Maidan,  or  Park, 
which  shows  the  presence  of  the  Western  stranger  in 
the  land.  This  park  is  to  Calcutta  more  than  Cen- 
tral or  Fairmount  Parks  can  be  to  New  York  or 
Philadelphia.  It  is  noted  for  beauty  and  for  the  dis- 
plays of  royalty  and  its  splendors,  which  make  such 
a profound  impression  on  the  Oriental  mind.  This 
park  is  in  its  full  glory  from  five  to  six  in  the 
evening.  Rotten  Row  seems  to  have  been  moved 
into  the  East  without  the  loss  of  its  follies  and  fashions 
All  that  every  man  possesses  in  the  varying  degrees 
from  pretension  or  “ shabby  genteel”  up  to  the  ex- 
tremes of  lavish  wealth,  are  here  present  and  in  con- 
trast. Most  of  this  display  is  a sham  and  looks 
as  if  the  bottom  rupee  was  being  tossed  to  the  top  in 
equipages  and  extravagances. 

The  Governor-General  leads  the  concourse  and  in- 
spires that  awe  so  peculiar  to.  countries  ruled  by  birth 
and  ostentatious  display.  He  has  outriders,  accord- 
ing to  the  customs  cf  the  Moghuls.  The  way  is 


thronged  by  the  aristocracy  of  birth,  wealth,  mili- 
tary and  civil  service,  a magnificent  moving  pano- 
rama of  life  trying  to  exercise  itself  in  a climate 
which  forbids  activity  during  the  hours  of  the 
day.  The  army  is  more  generally  represented  than 
any  other  profession,  as  it  is  still  a mighty  factor 
in  India — they  see  enough  of  it.  The  uniforms  and 
imposing  size  of  Englishmen  are  in  marked  constrast 
to  the  slender  and  diminutive  natives.  Their  reputa- 
tion for  courage,  and  the  reverence  that  weakness 
always  has  for  power,  makes  them  objects  of  servile 
deference,  while  the  natives,  in  their  true  inward- 
ness, hold  them  as  objects  of  detestation,  so  that 
they  are  feared,  revered  and  cursed  at  every  foot  of 
their  magnificent  progress.  Britain  rules  wherever 
her  presence  is  manifest;  old  things  are  passing 
away  and  all  things  becoming,  new.  The  equipages 
and  processions  of  the  Moghuls  are  disappearing  just 
as  “the  fuss  and  feathers,”  moccasins  and  warpaint  of 
the  North  American  Indians,  are  giving  way  to 
trousers  and  cut-away  coats.  The  elephants  must  go, 
as  their  splendid  masters  have  gone.  Near  the  Maidan 
Esplanade,  or  parade  ground,  is  Fort  William — the 
strongest  on  this  side  of  the  mountain  passes  into  Afghan- 
istan. It  is  an  object  of  fear  to  the  natives,  who  have 
never  acquired  a taste  for  balls  or  burning  powder. 
Adjacent  are  the  Cathedral  grounds  on  the  south,  to- 
gether with  other  enclosures  surrounding  the  govern- 
ment house,  separated  only  by  an  open  square. 

The  city  does  not  have  what  in  Europe  or  America 
would  be  called  fine  houses.  They  are  showy  and 
good  enough  for  this  warm  and  steady  climate,  but 
lack  substantiality,  being  mostly  built  of  soft  brick 
stuccoed,  and  usually  only  painted  in  distemper 


491 


colors.  The  house  of  the  Governor-General  is 
formed  by  two  semi-circular  buildings,  standing  back 
to  back,  united  by  a great  hall  in  the  centre,  giving 
SL  kind  of  uniformity  to  both  sides.  The  whole  is  sur- 
mounted by  a great  dome  of  lofty  and  imposing  regula- 
tion pattern,  while  rows  of  graceful  columns  formed 
into  porticoes  give  architectural  varieties.  These  great 
buildings  form  a society  centre,  around  which  are 
pretentious  residences  of  the  people  of  style. 

Such  is  the  exuberance  of  the  country  in  every  form 
of  natural  and  floral  beauty  that  a greater  show  can  be 
made  on  less  cash  in  it  than  in  any  other  other  part  of 
the  habitable  world.  Calcutta  is  a city  of  magnificent 
contrasts.  It  has  been  called  the  City  of  Great 
Palaces,  but  has  equally  great  degradations  in  the 
styes  called  homes  and  in  the  wretchedness  of  the 
people.  The  best  of  the  abodes  are  but  wattled  huts 
of  bamboo  and  clay  mixed  with  cow  manure,  which 
make  a fair  roof,  besides  giving  great  sanctity  to  the 
concern. 

Nothing  beyond  the  English  quarters  appears  ever 
to  have  been  cleaned.  There  are  no  sewers  through  the 
native  part  of  the  city,  and  everywhere  the  nose  rebels  at 
the  cesspools  into  which  all  filth  runs  and  from  which 
the  miserable  people  drink  pestilence  and  death.  This 
is  by  no  means  an  exaggerated  description  of  the  black 
town  in  Calcutta.  There  is  nothing  in  a name  in 
India,  and  white  town  would  be  no  better.  This  city 
of  Calcutta  has  grown  into  its  present  prodigious  impor- 
tance since  1686,  when  it  was  a mud  village  called  Kali 
Ghat,  Kali  being  the  name  of  the  Hindu  goddess  of 
death,  and  Ghat,  a sacred  bathing  place,  or  rather  a 
series  of  steps  leading  down  to  it.  It  is  said  that  the 
present  name  is  a corruption  of  the  two  words.  Bathing 


492 


here  is  a religious  duty,  a habit,  a fashion  and  a pleas- 
ure. There  is  no  weather  that  will  stop  it  any  more 
than  will  Alpine  frigidity  the  ducks  of  St.  Bernard. 
The  Ganges  washes  more  human  bodies  than  all  the  rest 
of  the  rivers  put  together.  When  the  long  rays  of  the 
morning  sun  lie  aslant  the  earth,  and  when  Europeans 
are  shivering  in  their  heavy  wraps,  the  great  crowd  of 
natives  rush  wildly  into  the  sacred  waters.  Each 
holds  a copper  or  brass  pot  called  a lota,  which  is 
used  for  lifting  up  and  pouring  the  water  while  the 
bather  looks  toward  the  sun,  as  if  worshipping  this 
monarch  of  the  skies,  and  many  others  scatter  rice 
on  the  waters. 


RELIGIOUS  CONDITION  OF  BENGAL. 
URIOUS  religious  contrivances  are  the  prayer 


rosaries,  made  by  fastening  with  a string  many 
small  natural  flowers  resembling  the  petals  of  the 
white  lilac,  or  yellow  flowers  not  unlike  buttercups, 
and  as  the  praying  goes  on  these  are  counted,  and 
when  the  “ Amen”  is  reached  they  are  thrown  on  the 
bosom  of  the  river  to  float  to  the  sea. 

Sun-worship,  of  which  Persia  was  the  originator, 
still  exists.  It  prevails  largely  in  the  mountain 
regions  of  India,  where  her  noblest  youth  have  been 
sacrificed  on  altars  dedicated  to  the  sun,  and  would 
be  yet,  if  the  British  government  had  not  interfered.. 
The  idea  that  the  waters  of  the  Ganges  are  purga- 
torial was  a substitution  for  human  blood-shedding 
in  the  interest  of  humanity  and  a great  advance 
over  the  cruelties  of  the  dismal  past.  This  is  all  the 


CHAPTER  XLVI. 


493 


religion  the  Hindus  have,  and  nothing  is  benefited 
by  it  but  their  skins.  They  wash  themselves  and 
their  garments,  and  then  fill  their  lota-pots  from  the 
soakings  of  dirty  bodies  and  the  dirtier  rags  about 
them,  taking  the  sacred  liquid  home  in  which  to 
cook  their  food  and  slake  their  thirst,  leaving  the  rest 
to  the  crocodiles,  with  an  occasional  leg  and  foot 
snapped  off  from  the  bathers  in  the  holy  waters,  which 
is  of  too  frequent  occurrence  to  excite  startling  remark. 
Everywhere  on  the  eastern  shore  of  the  Ganges  these 
Ghats,  or  stone  steps,  anywhere  from  one  hundred  to 
one  thousand  feet  in  length,  appear.  They  are  the 
only  substantial  work  of  the  hands  of  the  natives. 
They  are  of  red  sand-stone  beautifully  dressed,  the 
perfection  of  which  is  found  in  this  land  of  sunshine. 
These  stones  are  bound  together  by  great  iron  clamps, 
for  the  shores  of  the  river  are  as  changeful  as  the 
banks  of  the  Mississippi. 

The  finest  buildings  of  European  style  through- 
out India  are  the  railway  stations.  The  grandest 
one  of  this  description  of  building  in  the  world  is  in 
Bombay,  and  those  at  Calcutta  would  be  considered 
respectable  in  any  country.  The  coaches  are  English 
in  clumsiness  and  discomfort.  The  most  curious  rail- 
way contrivance  ever  seen  for  the' accommodation  of 
human  beings  is  the  cars  for  the  poor  natives. 
They  are  in  stories  about  four  feet  high,  like  sheep 
and  hog  cars,  only  not  so  good  as  those  in  America. 
As  the  natives  never  get  off  their  seats  unless  they 
sit  down  on  a wasp’s  nest,  or  on  fire,  their  capacity 
is  estimated  from  the  hips  up,  so  that  three  feet  is 
high  enough  for  the  movement  of  their  heads,  and  a 
third-class  car  comes  into  the  station  like  a chicken, 
geese  or  duck  wagon  into  a country  market.  The 


494 


cars  are  boarded  with  slats  for  air  and  the  dissipation 
of  the  smoke  of  tobacco  and  other  vile  concoctions. 
Bad  as  this  may  seem,  it  is  revolutionizing  India;  the 
railways  are  breaking  up  caste,  which  has  not  allowed 
the  people  to  go  out  of  a narrow  district.  When  the 
cars  are  jostled  they  tumble  castes  and  outcasts 
over  on  each  other.  This  plan  reduces  the  expense 
of  travel  to  the  merest  trifle,  as  the  natives  carry  their 
own  food  and  bedding,  and  curiosity  is  a mightier 
force  than  caste.  Now,  the  railway  is  substituted  as  a 
means  of  pilgrimage  when  formerly  they  had  to  walk, 
so  in  India  the  way  to  the  heavenly  Nirvana,  or  their 
Paradise,  is  by  rail. 

The  history  of  European  India  centres  about  Cal- 
cutta, and  to  get  the  thread  of  this  a detour  will  have 
to  be  made.  About  twenty-flve  miles  from  Calcutta  is 
the  first  point  of  Indo-European  history  in  connection 
with  Bengal.  It  is  Hooghly,  the  first  spot  on  which 
were  planted  European  feet.  It  was  purchased  by  the 
Dutch  and  a colony  for  traffic  was  founded  in  1625. 
Job  Charnock  founded  Calcutta  sixty  years  afterwards. 
Hooghly,  bearing  the  name  of  the  famous  river,  was 
alternately  ruled  by  the  Dutch,  Portuguese,  French 
and  finally  the  English.  In  Akbar’s  time  the  Dutch 
colony  of  the  Hooghly  forbade  English  traders  to 
share  the  traffic  with  them  of  the  Ganges.  They  com- 
menced hostilities,  which  ceased  when  the  English  had 
captured  or  purchased  the  forts  and  trading  posts  of 
their  Dutch  enemies.  Hooghly  was  the  vast  grain 
depot  of  all  the  valleys  of  the  Indus  and  Ganges. 

When  the  Portuguese  occupied  it  they  introduced 
Roman  Catholicism,  and  their  Mariolatry  was  so  ofien- 
sive  to  the  beautiful  wife  of  Shah  Jehan,  after  the  con- 
version of  her  daughter  Jehanira,  that  she  prevailed 


495 


on  the  Emperor  to  destroy  the  image  worshippers^ 
which  he  was  only  too  willing  to  do.  The  result 
was  an  order  to  destroy  the  whole  colony.  But  they 
sold  their  lives  as  dearly  as  possible.  In  their 
little  fort  they  stood  a Moslem  siege  three  months, 
and  when  nothing  was  left  to  shelter  them  they  eutered 
their  ships.  Fearing  that  they  would  fall  iuto  the 
hands  of  the  fiendish  Mohammedans,  and  preferring  ' 
death  to  dishonor,  they  blew  up  the  largest,  in  which 
were  two  thousand  souls,  and  all  perished.  Of  the 
sixty-four  ships  into  which  the  Eoman  Catholics  at- 
tempted to  escape,  all  were  lost  but  three. 

Two  miles  distant  there  is  still  a living  remnant  of 
the  martyred  faith,  a college  established  by  the  liber- 
ality of  a French  general,  who  entered  the  Mahratta 
service,  in  which  he  became  immensely  wealthy. 
By  the  law  of  compensation  by  which  outrages 
prompt  nobler  natives  to  pity,  a Mohammedan  gen- 
tleman has  given  the  institution  a yearly  income  of 
twenty-five  thousand  dollars.  It  has  about  six  hun- 
dred pupils  in  all  its  departments. 

Further  up  the  Hooghly,  close  to  the  railroad 
bridge,  are  the  remnants  of  a city  great  in  the  time  of 
Pliny.  The  Romans  traded  here,  and  it  is  interesting 
to  think  of  the  line  of  their  journeyings  on  beasts  of 
burden,  for  then  animal  back-bones  were  the  ships 
of  mountain,  valley  and  desert.  Their  journey  was 
first  made  from  Rome  across  the  Mediterranean, 
thence  by  Damascus  to  the  City  of  Zenobia,  across 
the  desert  of  Persia  to  the  Hindu  Koosh  Mountains, 
through  the  Khyber  Pass,  through  the  Valley  of  the 
Indus,  and  then  by  the  Ganges  to  the  “ City  of  Mag- 
nificence.” Now  there  are  not  more  than  a half  dozen 

marks,  outside  of  history,  of  its  existence. 


496 


Pundoak,  almost  in  sight  of  the  Hooghly,  had  a 
circumference  of  wall  and  moat  of  about  five  miles, 
nnd  was  in  its  day  as  impregnable  as  forts  could 
make  it.  But  it  is  more  celebrated  for  its  long  line 
of  kings,  who  reigned  within  those  defences  in  an  un- 
broken line  sixty-one  in  number,  nine  more  than  all 
the  Afghan  and  Moghul  Emperors  of  Delhi  since  it 
was  invaded  in  the  twelfth  century.  The  downfall 
of  the  city  and  country  was  by  the  scourge  of  the 
nations,  the  Mohammedans,  on  account  of  an  insult 
offered  through  a sacred  beast.  The  interpreter  of 
the  nephew  of  Mohamed  Togluk  butchered  a sacred 
cow  to  celebrate  a feast  in  honor  of  the  birth  of  his 
child,  an  unpardonable  outrage  to  the  Hindus.  He 
took  more  than*  ordinary  care  to  avoid  giving 
offence  by  burying  her  bones  in  his  compound,  but  the 
jackals  became  his  unexpected  foes  and  dug  them  up, 
exposing  them,  to  the  horror  of  the  cow-worshipping 
natives,  who  demanded  that  the  outrage  should  be 
expiated  in  human  blood.  The  infuriated  populace 
seized  the  child  for  whom  the  sacrifice  had  been  made 
and  killed  it.  The  father  carried  the  body  of  his 
murdered  child  all  the  way  to  Delhi,  and  presented 
its  mangled  and  decaying  form  before  the  Emperor, 
who  wanted  just  such  an  opportunity  to  justify  him  in 
conquering  the  country  and  exterminating  its  inhabi- 
tants. 

He  sent  Shah  Sufi,  who  made  swift  and  awful  set- 
tlement by  both  sword  and  cunning.  The  Hindus 
fought  with  desperation,  looking  for  the  reward  of 
being  immersed  in  a sacred  reservoir,  which  would 
restore  them  immediately  to  life  again,  so  that  they 
could  resist  their  foes  and  render*  the  fighters  immor- 
tal. But  the  Moslem  determined  to  end  their  expecta- 


497 


tions  of  immortalitv  by  pitching  into  the  reservoir  the 
carcass  of  a cow,  and  then  no  Hindu  under  any  stress, 
not  even  of  death,  would  touch  that  water.  The 
spirit  of  defence  was  gone;  this  was  more  dreaded 
than  Moslem  guns  and  sabres ; for  in  this  water  they 
rendered  worship.  They  must  drink  it,  too,  and  in  it 
they  w’ere  obli^red  to  cook  their  food.  It  was  an  irre- 
parable calamity.  According  to  their  faith,  it  would 
bring  on  their  souls  and  those  of  their  children  an 
interminable  series  of  beastly  transmigrations  from 
which  none  could  hope  for  a return  into  manhood  again. 
So  they  submitted  after  the  extremity  of  the  ancient 
mariner,  “Water,  water  everywhere,  and  not  a drop  to 
drink.”  This  offence  and  defeat  occurred  five  hun- 
dred and  fifty  years  ago.  Mohammedans  only  occupy 
Pundoak  now,  and  the  tank  is  still  there,  near  the 
railway  station. 

The  Togluks  were  great  on  domes.  They  were 
their  architectural  play-things  and  embellishments; 
so  upon  the  roofs  constructed  in  their  reigns  some 
have  as  many  as  sixty.  There  is  in  this  ancient  site 
of  Mohammedan  conquest  a mosque  with  sixty  domes 
full  of  curious  and  startling  reverberations,  where 
whispers  are  caught  and  carried  back  and  forth, 
through  the  arches.  Hei’e  Shah  Sufi  had  his  prayer 
platform  and  rug,  and  went  through  the  ritual  of  de- 
votions. Women  have  special  places  for  the  offering 
of  petitions  for  motherhood.  If  there  is  a great  desire 
to  increase  the  family  circle  by  a few  additional  links, 
and  if  the  prospects  are  not  encouraging,  the  wife 
brings  her  gift  and  places  it  on  the  water.  If  it  is 
heavy  enough  to  sink  it  is  placed  on  something  that 
will  float  it,  and  she  prays  and  watches  for  the  favor- 
able gale,  which,  if  it  bring  it  back  toward  her,  is 


498 


bracing  to  her  faith,  and  she  considers  her  prospects 
good,  and  waits  the  lights  and  shadows  of  coming 
events  with  hope  and  fortitude. 

In  marked  contrast  with  the  native  religion  is 
the  birthplace  of  Christianity  in  Bengal.  Thirteen 
miles  north  of  Calcutta  is  Serampur,  originally 
a Danish  trading  point  founded  in  1598.  This 
city  was  famous  for  its  fabrics,  the  finest  of  the 
century,  woven  in  the  most  primitive  fashion.  But 
genius  was  the  shuttle,  and  the  splendid  results  ap- 
peared in  the  gossamer  muslins  of  Dacca,  the  royal 
robes  of  the  most  magnificent  courts  of  the  times ; be- 
sides these  were  the  Cashmere  shawls,  only  within  the 
reach  of  a few,  even  in  palaces.  One  hundred  and 
forty  years  were  spent  in  these  industries,  and  then 
the  whole  plant  was  purchased  for  three  hundred 
thousand  dollars  by  the  rival  English  Company  of 
Calcutta. 

This  is  the  industrial  and  material  side  of  the  his- 
tory of  this  city ; but  its  greatest  glory  consists  in  its 
soul-saving  histories,  especially  in  the  first  efforts  at  its 
redemption  from  sin  by  the  Baptist  missionaries^ 
Carey,  Ward  and  Marshman.  Their  dust  lies  here, 
the  pledge  that  India  will  yet  be  redeemed.  They 
hold  it  in  trust  even  in  death.  Their  graves  are  in 
the  little  burial  place,  and  are  the  noblest  treasures  of 
the  Empire.  They  need  no  monuments  of  stone  or 
brass ; their  name  and  fame  is  in  the  memory  of  the  good. 
They  are  not  without  what  the  world  calls  a monu- 
ment— a great  college  started  by  their  own  gifts.  It 
stands  upon  the  banks  of  the  Hooghly,  which  glides 
by,  murmuring  praises  of  the  institution  to  the  hopeful 
and  faithful. 

There  is  a well  filled  library,  containing  rare  sources 


499 


of  Oriental  knowledge.  Between  the  College  and 
the  river  was  room  originally  for  the  residence  of  the 
immortal  Carey,  but  the  river  has  taken  it  to  its  bosom 
and  keeps  guard  over  its  sacred  remains.  Carey  es- 
tablished a botanical  garden,  in  which  were  thousands 
of  species  of  plants.  The  First  Church  Missionary 
Society  was  organized  by  the  Baptists  in  1793,  by  the 
“ consecrated  cobbler”  Carey,  who  was  the  first  mis- 
sionary. He  sailed  in  1793,  accompanied  by  his  family 
and  Mr.  Thomas,  his  co-laborer.  The  first  hindrance  the 
devil  contiived  was  worked  by  the  East  India  Com- 
pany for  all  that  it  was  worth.  Parliament  lent  itself 
to  this  infamous  act  by  decreeing  that  if  any  subjects 
of  His  Majesty,  not  being  lawfully  licensed,  should  at 
any  time  repair  to,  or  be  found  in  the  East  Indies,  such 
person  should  be  declared  guilty  of  a high  crime 
and  misdemeanor,  and  liable  to  fine  and  imprison- 
ment. 

Carey  lived  in  extreme  poverty;  sometimes  he  dwelt 
in  the  midst  of  malaria  and  wild  beasts,  his  passion 
was  for  saving  the  souls  of  the  natives.  For  this  end 
he  was  preparing  himself,  and,  with  the  aid  of  an  in- 
terpreter, soon  began  to  preach  in  places  of  public 
resort.  He  found  a friend  in  need  and  deed,  the  pro- 
prietor of  an  indigo  factory  in  the  district  of  Mudna- 
batty,  and  to  escape  the  torments  of  the  East  India 
Company  he  was  reported  as  in  his  employ.  For  six 
years  he  and  Thomas  labored  among  the  natives  in  the 
factories  without  apparent  results.  They  were  sowing 
seed  beside  great  waters. 


CHAPTER  XLVII. 


CHRISTIANITY  PERSECUTED  BY  ITS  OWN  FRIENDS. 

The  East  India  Company  has  written  its  infamy 
in  its  treatment  of  the  cross,  and  planned  and 
executed  its  own  downfall  in  its  behavior  toward  the  first 
missionaries.  The  Baptist  missionaries,  Marshman  and 
Ward,  followed  Carey,  the  cobbler,  and  to  avoid  arrest 
from  the  East  India  Company,  embarked  in  an  Ameri- 
can vessel  and  passed  by  Calcutta  to  Serampur,  sixteen 
miles  above,  to  the  Danish  settlement  and  protection. 
Marshman,  upon  touching  land,  knelt  and  thanked 
God  for  a safe  voyage  to  their  field  of  labor. 

The  company  was  in  a rage ; one  of  the  directors  de- 
clared that  he  would  rather  see  a band  of  devils  in 
India.  An  order  was  issued  to  the  Danish  governor  for 
the  immediate  arrest  of  the  missionaries,  that  they  might 
be  sent  out  of  the  country.  But  the  governor  was  not 
subject  to  scares,  and  determined  to  defy  the  British 
and  to  protect  the  missionaries.  Frederick  VI.,  of 
Denmark,  when  he  heard  that  the  missionaries  had 
taken  shelter  in  his  domains,  informed  them  that  he 
was  well  pleased,  and  would  take  them  under  special 
protection.  The  governor  assisted  them  in  the  * pur- 
chase of  a house,  which  became  their  headquarters. 
A printing  press  was  set  up  and  the  New  Testament, 
translated  by  Carey  into  Bengalee,  was  issued.  In 
1801,  an  edition  of  2,000  copies  of  the  New  Testament 
Scriptures  were  published,  and  in  1809  the  whole 
B bie  was  published  in  five  volumes.  Carey’s  motto, 
“ Expect  great  things  from  God  and  attempt  great 
things  for  God,”  was  carried  into  resistless  execution. 

500 


501 


In  1800,  Marshman  and  his  wife  opened  two  boarding 
schools  which  became  very  popular,  yielding  an 
income  of  £1,000  a year.  The  next  movement  was 
by  Carey ; the  translation  of  the  Bible  into  fourteen 
other  Oriental  languages,  and  their  printing  on  the 
presses  of  Serampur.  His  power  was  summarized  in  his 
words  to  his  son,  “ If  anyone  shall  attempt  to  write  my 
biography  when  I am  gone,  his  best  criterion  will  be 
the  character  of  a plodder.  I can  plod  and  persevere 
on  any  definite  principle ; to  this  I owe  every  thing,’^ 
and  so  he  went  on.  It  took  him  into  the  Ganges  on 
the  28th  of  December,  1800,  to  baptize  the  first 
Hindu,  Krishno,  who  stood  the  test  of  persecution 
from  the  Brahmins,  and  his  own  son  Felix  became 
true,  useful  and  faithful.  Soon  Krishno’s  daughter, 
Golok,  embraced  Christianity,  and  for  it  was  forcibly 
carried  off  by  her  heathen  husband.  As  he  was  beating 
her  by  the  way,  and  passing  a police  station,  she  ex- 
claimed, “I  have  heard  of  the  sufferings  of  Christ; 
these  things  have  laid  hold  on  my  mind,  and  I have 
become  a Christian  from  choice,  and  am  not  willing  to 
go  with  this  man.” 

This  work  of  conversion  went  on  until  thirty- 
five  were  baptized  and  a church  organized,  and 
then  a cold  wave  swept  over  them,  and  Dr.  Carey 
and  other  ministers  were  forbidden  to  preach  to  the 
natives  of  British  India.  The  subject  reached  Parlia- 
ment. Sidney  Smith  reproached  the  uneducated  men, 
who  were  trying  to  cope  with  a philosophy  which  had 
withstood  centuries.  But  Southey  espoused  their  cause ; 
and  defended  them  against  the  charge  of  being  low- 
born and  low-bred,  showing  the  prodigious  amount 
of  learning  displayed  in  the  translation  of  the  Scrip- 
tures into  ten  different  languages.  He  said,  These 


502 


low-bred  and  low-born  have  done  more  in  four  years 
toward  the  spreading  of  the  knowledge  of  the  Scrip- 
tures than  all  the  world  besides.”  The  persecution 
was  ended  by  an  agreement,  that  all  matter  printed  in 
the  house  at  Serampur  should  be,  before  publication, 
submitted  to  the  inspection  of  the  Governor-General. 
For  this  they  observed  a day  of  prayer  and  thanks- 
giving. 

In  1809  a commodious  house  of  worship  was  built  in 
Calcutta,  and  the  work  greatly  extended  in  Serampur.  In 
1814  all  restrictions  on  the  missionaries  were  removed 
and  great  activity  followed.  Missions  were  established 
in  all  the  north-western  provinces.  Then  came  internal 
disturbance  through  an  attempt  to  manage  the  work  at 
home  by  people  who  knew  nothing  of  the  conditions  and 
difficulties  of  the  field ; which  has  been,  more  or  less,  a 
hindrance  in  all  missionary  work  till  this  day.  These 
difficulties  continued  until  the  death  of  the  senior 
missionaries,  but  the  Serampur  mission  was  so  near 
self-sustaining  that  Carey  and  his  brethren  pushed 
their  work  in  the  face  of  all  difficulties. 

A book  society  was  established  in  Calcutta.  Marsh- 
man  had  within  a range  of  twenty  miles  forty-five 
schools,  in  which  were  two  thousand  pupils.  A col- 
lege was  established  in  which  lectures  were  delivered 
on  mathematics,  medicine,  ethics,  theology  and  all 
other  branches  found  in  average  colleges  in  England. 
When  the  year  1832  was  reached  the  whole  enterprise, 
like  a ripe  seed-pod,  collapsed  in  the  death  of 
Ward,  and  three  years  after  of  Carey,  after  a mis- 
sionary career  of  forty  years  service.  On  his  tomb  the 
man  appears  in  the  epitaph  cbosen  by  himself: 

“A  wretched,  poor  and  helpless  worm, 

On  thy  kind  arm  I fall.’^ 


This  was  the  final  blow  to  the  Serampur  Mission. 
There  was  a scattering  of  the  seed  grown  there,  and 
soon  after  a consolidation  of  the  work  in  Calcutta. 
From  1817  and  1827  there  was  a chronic  quarrel 
between  the  Serampur  missionaries  and  the  parent 
Society,  respecting  the  property  at  Serampur,  caus- 
ing division  and  independent  work,  which  lasted 
about  ten  years.  Harmony  and  union  were  re- 
stored between  the  parent  Society  in  Calcutta  and 
the  Society  at  Serampur,  and  in  1887,  the  Society  has 
over  100  native  evangelists,  about  5,000  children  in 
day-schools  and  nearly  4,000  in  Sunday-schools.  The 
largest  number  of  Christians  connected  with  it,  are  at 
Backergunge,  where  the  Christian  community  is 
about  5,000.  Native  members  are  about  as  many,  and 
adherents  about  12,000.  These  figures  are  from  the 
best  sources  we  could  obtain.  They  are  old,  and  are 
under,  rather  than  over,  the  present  status.  This  Society 
gives  itself  more  to  preaching  and  evangelizing  than  to 
educational  work,  the  lack  of  which,  in  our  judgment,  is 
a defect  apparent  in  most  other  societies.  Educational 
and  literary  work  is  easier,  and  freer  from  the  disagree- 
able features  of  mission  work,  and  has  drawn  too  much 
of  the  time  and  force  of  the  churches  from  the  preach- 
ing to  the  multitudes  the  doctrines  of  salvation. 

There  is  another  name,  which  can  no  more  be  left 
out  of  mission  work  in  India  than  the  title  page  in  a 
history.  That  swiftly  passing  orb  of  heavenly  light, 
Henry  Marty n,  who  was  born  at  Truro,  Cornwall, 
England,  1781,  from  humble,  but  godly  parentage. 
He  was  sensitive,  proud  and  ambitious,  of  high  and 
indomitable  temper.  A genius,  distinguishing  him- 
self in  his  studies  and  winning  a fellowship  at  St. 
Stephens.  His  religious  life  wa?  formed  and  inspired 


504 


under  the  wonderful  character  of  the  godly  Rev.  Charles 
Simeon  in  the  glory  of  his  ministry  in  Cambridge.  Of 
the  honors  gained  at  graduation,  Martyn  s;iid,  “ I ob- 
tained my  highest  wishes,  but  was  surprised  to  find  that 
I had  grasped  a shadow.” 

He  studied  for  the  law,  hilt  turned  to  the  ministry. 
Carey’s  work  in  India  and  the  life  of  David  Brainerd 
among  the  American  Indians  were  the  force.s 
shaping  his  plastic  nature.  He  says,  “I  rejoice 
in  thinking  I shall  meet  this  dear  man  in  heaven.” 
Martyn  ofiered  himself  to  the  Church  Missionary^ 
Society  of  England  to  work  in  India.  He  was  ac* 
cepted  and  ordained  at  Ely,  1803,  being  twenty-one 
years  old.  He  could  not  at  this  time  go  to  India 
without  a license  from  the  East  India  Company. 
Such  was  the  spirit  of  Satan  in  it  that  he  could  get 
no  license.  He,  like  the  Baptist  missionaries,  would 
have  to  sail  in  a foreign  ship  and  put  himself  under 
foreign  protection.  He  would  have  to  leave  the  love 
of  his  young  heart  behind,  who  had  not  his  spirit  of  self- 
denial,  and  whom  he  never  saw  again.  The  Company, 
under  strong  pressure,  appointed  him  to  a chaplaincy. 
When  he  was  on  his  way  he  learned  that  the  ship 
had  been  sent  out  for  the  capture  of  Good  Hope» 
which  gave  him  great  distress ; but  he  was  not  idle  in 
this  calamity,  but  labored  with  the  wounded  and 
dying  in  a miserable  hospital  where  two  hundred  men 
were  weltering  in  their  blood. 

At  Cape  Town  he  met  the  famous  Dutch  mis- 
sionary Van  derkemp,  whom  he  asked  if  he  had  ever 
regretted  leaving  his  native  country.  “ No,”  said  the 
old  man ; “ and  I would  not  exchange  my  work  for  a 
kingdom.”  He  arrived  in  Calcutta  May,  1806,  and 
like  Sampson  laid  hold  of  the  piUars  of  heathenism  ; 


505 

and  if  they  did  not  fall  he  loosened  them  on  their 
bases.  Near  the  city  of  Calcutta  he  became  the  guest 
of  Mr.  David  Brown,  who  gave  him  a pagoda  as  hia 
dwelling-place,  in  which  Martyn  studied  the  language 
and  prayed  aloud,  as  he  said,  ‘‘To  my  God and  the 
echoes  returned  from  the  Vaulted  roof,  “ O,  may  I sa 
pray  that  the  dome  of  heaven  may  resound.”  Every- 
body was  captivated;  he  was  the  central  figure  and 
charm  of  European  society;  but  it  did  not  capti- 
vate him.  His  face  was  toward  the  heathen  millions. 

His  first  work  was  at  Dinapur ; and  the  preparation 
required  was  a knowledge  of  the  Hindustani.  He  be- 
gan a school  for  natives,  and  also  the  work  of  trans- 
lating the  Bible  and  preparing  religious  tracts  for 
the  multitudes.  In  two  years  and  a half  he  could 
speak  the  native  language  fluently.  He  established 
and  maintained  five  schools  against  both  European 
and  native  hostility.  His  version  of  the  New 
Testament  was  unsurpassed  ia  beauty  of  diction  and 
power.  While  in  Dinapur,  great  trials  came  upon 
him.  Two  sisters  died  of  consumption  in  England, 
and  the  last  hope  of  being  united  to  the  only  love  of 
his  life  perished.  The  fell-destroyer  consumption 
was  at  this  time  shadowing  him,  it  loves  a shining 
mark,  and  soon  fastened  on  his  classic  features 
the  look  of  death.  He  saw  that  there  was  no  hope 
save  in  leaving  Cawnpore  for  Persia,  which  was  not 
wholly  disagreeable;  for  it  would  give  him  greater 
facilities  for  the  revision  of  his  Persic  Testament. 
Pie  bade  his  friends  in  Serampur  and  Calcutta  fare- 
well and  departed  for  Shiraz.  Five  months  were  con- 
sumed in  the  journey.  Hi's  travels  on  land  shattered 
his  already  enfeebled  constitution.  He  was  consumed 
by  heat  during  the  day  and  chilled  by  night. 


5UG 

When  the  journey  was  over  he  was  in  the  most 
delightful  spot  on  earth — the  city  of  scholars  and 
learning,  of  rarest  flowers  and  finest  fruits,  and  fields 
laden  with  richest  grain.  Here  the  Persian  rose 
becomes  a tree  and  is  weighted  down  with  petals 
and  perfumes.  It  is  the  land  of  feathered  songsters. 
Here  the  nightingale  fills  the  air  with  bewitching  notes ; 
it  is  a place  of  cloudless  skies  and  pure  air.  In  this 
earthly  paradise  the  man  with  the  arrow  of  death  in 
his  heart  was  braced  for  his  last  work.  The  scholars 
of  Shiraz  were  astonished  at  his  attainments  in  their 
language.  He  began  a revision  of  his  translation 
of  the  New  Testament  June,  1811,  and  completed  it 
February  9th,  1812,  and  in  a month  the  Psalms  were 
completed.  In  the  midst  of  such  labors  he  found 
time  to  teach  Christianity  by  word  and  example.  He 
received  all  that  would  come  into  his  garden.  He 
confronted  the  Mohammedans  so  successfully  that  all 
Shiraz  was  excited.  He  was  sapping  the  foundations 
of  their  ancient  faith.  He  had  a debate  with  the 
chief  professor,  which  resulted  in  his  discomfiture  and 
the  opening  of  the  eyes  of  the  people.  He  did  not  live 
to  see  the  results,  but  others  have.  However,  he 
knew  of  the  conversion  of  Mohamed  Rahem,  to  whom 
he  gave,  as  he  was  leaving  his  presence,  a copy  of  the 
New  Testament,  on  the  fly-leaf  of  which  was  written: 
There  is  joy  in  heaven  over  one  sinner  that  repent- 
eth.” 

His  health  was  slipping  away  from  him,  and  he 
knew  that  the  battle  was  almost  over.  A great  longing 
came  over  him  to  see  dear  old  England  once  more, 
and  in  the  fever  of  a last  desire  he  started  for  Con- 
stantinople, a journey  of  twelve  hundred  miles.  His 
manuscripts  were  left  in  the  care  of  the  English  Em- 


507 


baasador,  Sir  George  Ouseley.  He  succeeded  upoi 
bis  departure  in  doing  what  he  had  failed  in  a short 
time  before,  in  getting  the  King  to  accept  a copy  of 
his  translation  of  the  New  Testament,  which  he  did 
with  public  thanks.  His  journey  was  long,  try- 
ing and  exhausting,  but  the  shortest  and  quickest 
road  to  heaven.  His  escort  was  composed  of  human 
wretches,  who  hurried  his  death.  Alternately  burning 
with  fever  and  shivering  with  ague,  he  was  forced  to 
pursue  his  journey  on  horseback  at  a rate  that  would 
have  worn  out  a trooper. 

On  the  16th  of  October  he  had  reached  Tocat, 
twenty-five  miles  from  Constantinople,  where  he  laid 
his  head  quietly  down  for  the  last  time  and  his  soul 
went  up  to  God  as  sweetly  as  music  flies  from  the 
throbbing  string.  He  was  thirty-one  years  old,  and 
in  six  years  of  missionary  life  he  had  done  forty  years 
work,  left  his  impress  on  the  great  Empire  and  won  a 
martyr’s  crown.  Claudius  James  Ritch,  an  English 
resident  at  Bagdad,  erected  a monument  over  his  re- 
mains with  the  inscription,  “ As  he  was  returning  to  his 
native  land  the  Lord  here  called  for  him  to  his  eternal 
joy,  A.  D.  1812.”  His  native  land  mourned  for  him. 
The  beauty  of  her  manhood  had  fallen  by  the  wayside, 
weary  with  the  strife. 


CHAPTER  XLVIII. 

SURAJAH  DOWLAH. 

O URAJAH  DOWLAH  is  a character  that  cannot 
lO  be  overlooked.  Bad  and  good  men  are  tangent 
to  humanity  at  so  many  points  that  their  memories 
cannot  be  annihilated.  This  incarnate  fiend  has  an 
immortality  of  infamy;  he  has  smirched  the  face 
of  British  history  in  India.  Moorshedabad  was 
the  centre  of  the  movements  of  this  cruel  man. 
The  Delta  of  the  Ganges  was  the  richest  of  all  the 
provinces,  the  diadem  on  the  bosom  of  India.  It 
yielded  sugar,  silk,  fruits  and  fabrics,  and  its  pro- 
ducts and  resources  were  immense.  Its  Viceroys 
reveled  in  the  luxuries  of  its  wealth.  They  were 
independent  of  the  Moghul  Emperor  in  every  thing  but 
name.  Surajah  Dowlah  was  master  of  this  great  do- 
main. He  stands  solitary  and  unapproachable  even 
in  the  records  of  Oriental  official  crime.  Cruelty  gave 
to  him  greater  delight  than  music  to  better  natures. 
He  loved  to  see  the  people  drowned  in  the  Ganges,, 
and  the  more  he  saw  going  down,  never  to  rise,  the 
happier  he  was.  He  enjoyed  more  than  wine  the 
dying  struggles  of  men  and  women ; even  the  sight  of 
drowning  babes  gave  him  ineffable  pleasure.  When 
he  felt  ,well  and  peculiarly  exuberant,  he  would  walk 
through  the  streets  with  a doubled-edged  sword,  cut- 
ting the  people  down  right  and  left  and  splitting  the 
heads  of  those  who  did  not  duly  honor  him.  That  hor- 
rible distrust  of  men  which  comes  over  bloody  tyrants 
seized  upon  him,  and  he  would  no  longer  trust  to 
the  protection  of  his  own  sex ; so  he  called  to  be  his 

508 


509' 


body-guards  Amazons  from  Tartary  and  Abyssinia. 
Moorshedebad  was  the  pivot  of  his  fiendishness,  but 
he  swung  round  the  circle  until  he  struck  the  English 
a blow  that  filled  the  world  with  horror. 

In  1756,  he  invaded  Calcutta  and  took  the  city.  He 
was  a fierce  hater  of  the  English  and  took  one  hun- 
dred and  forty-six  prisoners.  These  he  ordered  to 
be  shut  up  in  a room  twenty  feet  square,  with  little 
ventilation.  They  were  driven  in  at  the  point  of  the 
sword,  expostulating  against  what  they  could  not,  at 
first,  believe  to  be  a veritable  order.  They  cried  for 
mercy,  tried  to  break  down  the  doors,  fought  for  a gasp 
of  air  at  the  barred  window,  and  trampled  upon  each 
other  to  get  the  few  drops  of  water  which  were  spar- 
ingly doled  out.  The  jailers  held  torches  to  the 
barred  window  and  jeered  at  the  frantic  struggles  of 
their  victims.  When  the  doors  were  opened  in  the 
morning,  only  twenty-three  ghastly  survivors  strug- 
gled out  of  the  heap  of  corpses  already  festering  in  the 
intense  heat.  The  Nawab,  after  giving  the  fiendish 
order  the  night  before,  had  sunk  into  a sleep  after  a 
debauch.  W ord  was  sent  to  the  merchant  soldier  Clive, 
who  answered  promptly  by  his  movement  of  ships 
with  one  thousand  English  soldiers  and  two  thousand 
Sepoys  to  avenge  the  horrible  act.  He  rose  into  the 
highest  stature  of  manhood,  and  was  more  than  equal 
to  the  emergency ; he  was  no  longer  the  boy  soldier  of 
Arcot.  On  the  way  from  Benares  to  Calcutta  is  seen 
the  spot  where  that  English  courage,  which  is  peerless, 
flashed  its  grandeur  and  heroism  into  history.  It  was 
where  one  did  “ chase  a thousand,  and  two  put  ten 
thousand  to  flight.”  This  occurred  on  the  23d  of  June, 
1737.  One  thousand  Englishmen  were  all  he  could 
trust  with  certainty  to  avenge  the  outrage  upon  the 


Britisli  at  the  Black  Hole  of  Calcutta.  They  had  ta 
meet  fifty  thousand  foot  and  fourteen  thousand  horse- 
men. 

Clive  halted  the  morning  before  at  Cutwa,  where 
the  battle  was  fought,  though  Plassey  carries  the 
honor.  Sixty-four  thousand  soldiers  and  fifty  pieces 
of  heavy  artillery,  drawn  by  oxen  and  elephants, 
were  to  be  met  only  by  skill  and  courage.  He  called 
a council  of  his  officers.  The  majority  decided  not  to 
fight,  and  he  yielded.  The  officers  went  to  their  quar- 
ters ; but  Clive  was  working  the  problem  over  again  in 
a battle  between  prudence,  duty,  outrage  and  courage. 
He  sat  down  in  a grove  and  gave  himself  to  reflection 
for  an  hour.  The  destiny  of  the  world  revolved  over  and 
over  in  that  hour;  for  he  saw,  even  then,  that  the 
cause  of  India  was  the  cause  of  the  world  and  its 
higher  civilization.  If  he  turned  back,  all  British 
advantages  gained  were  lost ; it  was  really  the  begin- 
ning of  retreat ; besides  his  country  was  already  reel- 
ing at  home  under  her  defeats  and  national  disasters. 
His  , unconquerable  spirit  asserted  itself,  and  he  de- 
termined to  fight.  The  little  army  crossed  the  river, 
the  gallant  89th  fought  the  battle,  gained  the  victory, 
and  changed  the  tide  of  destiny  both  in  England  and 
India,  and  so  added  to  England’s  crown  its  brightest 
star.  Civilization  moved  on  to  the  front;  Chris- 
tianity became  possible ; and  men  rushed  in  from  her 
ranks  to  hold  the  advantages  of  this  day’s  triumph. 
Clive  put  the  cruel,  cowering  wretch  to  death  in  a 
garden,  where  he  had  taken  refuge,  in  a starving 
condition;  and  one  more  monster  went  to  his  own 
place.  This  is  the  history  of  the  Black  Hole  of  Cal- 
cutta. 

The  pilgrim,  a century  and  a half  away  from  its 


511 


horrors,  still  shudders  at  the  fact  now  stripped  of  all 
its  visible  terrors.  The  wealth  this  official  fiend 
had  extorted  from  the  enslaved  people  was  astound- 
ing. It  was  in  his  palace  that  it  is  said  Clive 
stood  dazed  amid  the  glittering  heaps  of  gold  and 
silver,  of  diamonds  and  precious  stones.  He  took 
forty  millions  of  dollars  for  the  East  India  Company, 
and  between  one  and  two  million  for  himself,  and  ever 
after  mourned  his  modesty. 

Extortion  evokes  the  sublimest  ingenuity  in  In- 
dia. Another  Mohammedan  tyrant,  a predecessor, 
invented  a scheme  for  the  collection  of  arrears  of  rents 
from  his  tenants,  which  we  have  not  heard  of  in  the 
lists  of  the  reported  atrocities  of  Irish  landlords, 
showing  how  little  they  have  read  of  Indian  history. 
Cooley  Khan  took  vengeance  on  his  defaulting  tenants 
by  putting  live  cats  into  their  breeches.  We  do  not 
vouch  for  this  statement,  though  history  is  thought  to  be 
veracious,  because  the  people  must  have  been  in  better 
condition  then  than  now ; as  no  garments  can  be  found 
on  any  natives  that  would  hold  a cat,  it  is,  therefore, 
relegated  to  the  improbable.  If  Cooley  Khan  did,  as 
•alleged,  it  was  the  coldest  catastrophe  they  ever  had 
in  Bengal. 

Changes  are  violent  in  India ; and  our  readers 
need  not  be  surprised  if  we  make  a short  turn  from 
the  Black  Hole  and  its  tragic  history  to  the  domes- 
tic life  of  the  people.  The  wedding  there  means  far 
more  than  in  any  European  country ; and  as  the  de- 
scription of  a great  Oriental  city  is  more  a thing 
of  legs  and  eyes  than  of  logic  or  continuity  of  event,  we 
will  describe  a wedding  procession.  It  breaks  in  upon 
the  Westerner  like  the  coming  of  a combined  menag- 
erie and  circus.  Loud,  inharmonious  blasts  of  trum- 


pels  rend  the  air  and  drums  keep  it  in  motion  followed 
by  the  ding-dongs  of  gongs,  the  shrill  notes  of  flageo- 
lets, and  the  long  agonizing  of  bows  drawn  across 
ill-tuned  violin  strings,  the  whole  moving  through 
colored  lights.  If  the  bridegroom  is  rich,  his  marriage 
awakens  more  wonderment  than  the  change  of  a dynasty 
in  an  empire.  His  nearest  friends  make  it  a magnificent 
affair  according  to  Indian  ideas.  They  come  riding 
in  a triumphal  car  shaped  and  feathered  in  the  form 
and  fashion  of  a peacock,  the  sacred  bird  of  the 
Empire.  This  wheeled  carryall,  the  body  of  which  is 
a man-made  peacock,  is  drawn  by  white  oxen,  the  most 
beautiful  creatures  except  the  peacock  in  all  Bengal. 
The  young  companions  of  the  bridegroom  in  this  chariot 
are  arrayed  in  costly  robes  covered  with  gold  lace, 
sparkling  with  diamonds  and  every  other  glittering 
stone.  In  the  hands  of  each  are  flags  and  banners  with 
strange  devices.  They  carry  what  makes  humanity 
hilarious,  a tribute  to  its  vast  maw,  bushels  of  bon  bons 
which  they  scatter,  and  for  which  the  crowds  jostle, 
push  and  run  over  each  other,  picking  them  out  of  the 
dust.  Following  them  is  the  joy  of  the  urchins,  gangs 
of  boys  in  red  tunics  with  gold-braided  turbans,  be- 
neath purple  canopies,  yelling  from  shrill  throats  that 
never  weary. 

On  a platform  carried  on  the  shoulders  of  men  the 
bridegroom  is  seated  in  a golden  chair  with  two  pages 
at  his  side.  Over  him  is  a gorgeous  canopy,  its  roof, 
spangled  with  silver  stars,  protecting  him  from  the  dan- 
gers of  being  star  or  moonstruck.  His  robes  are  of 
cloth  shot  through  and  through  with  threads  of  gold ; 
his  turban  is  of  the  same.  A mantle  of  embroidered 
silk,  such  as  only  the  deft  fingers  and  ingenuity  of 
these  natives  can  devise,  is  thrown  loosely  over  his 


513 


shoulders ; a sash  of  richest  crimson  silk  sur- 
rounds his  waist ; a gold  chain  of  heavy  links  and  a 
necklace  of  costliest  pearls  adorn  his  person.  He  is 
following  the  order  of  Bible  weddings,  and  going 
to  the  home  of  the  bride,  whom  he  has  never  seen. 
She  may  not  be  a dozen  years  old,  a very  baby  she 
would  appear *to  a Westerner,  one  who  ought  to  be  in 
the  nursery  saying  her  prayers  in  her  night-gown ; she 
has  seen  nothing  and  knows  nothing  but  the  silly 
babble  of  her  mother  and  servants.  When  the  feast- 
ing at  her  father’s  house  is  ended,  she  will  go  to  her 
husband’s  father  to  be  tormented  by  her  mother-in- 
law  until  she  shuffles  off  the  mortal  coil.  When, 
however,  she  becomes  a mother  she  can  torment  all 
who  have  come  in  after  her.  This  much  can  always 
be  guessed,  but  more  will  not  be  known  of  her  until 
her  corpse  is  earned  to  the  Ganges,  and  she  enters  her 
second  estate  in  the  maw  *of  a crocodile. 

During  our  stay  in  India  the  death  of  one  of 
the  famous  rulers  of  the  most  mutinous  provinces 
occurred — the  King  of  Oudh.  The  British  govern- 
ment worked  its  way  into  the  kingdom  of  Oudh  as  the 
fabled  camel  which  first  put  in  his  nose  and  then  thrust 
in  his  whole  body.  On  the  death  of  Asaph-ud-Dow- 
lah,  who,  through  inheritance  and  assistance  of  the 
British  government  and  good  management,  had  a 
revenue  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  millions  of  pounds 
sterling,  there  occurred  a struggle  for  the  succession. 
The  Indian  government  was  not  unwilling  to  hear 
that  the  claimant  was  not  the  legitimate  heir,  and  Sir 
John  Shore,  the  British  Governor-General,  went  to 
Lucknow  and  seated  a tool  of  his,  Saadat  Ali,  who 
soon  saw  the  benefit  of  submitting  to  his  foreign 
masters.  From  this  time  the  native  rulers  of  Oudh 


514 


lost  their  grip  on  their  kingdom,  and  instead  of 
ruling  they  were  encouraged  rather  to  turn  their 
attention  to  beast  and  cock  fighting,  to  fire-works  and 
dancing  prostitutes,  in  building  seraglios  and  fur- 
nishing them  with  lustres  and  mirrors,  with  glass 
lions  and  porcelain  negroes,  together  with  wines  and 
whiskies. 

In  1816  Saadat  was  succeeded  by  Ghazi-ud-din,  and 
he  by  Nasir-ud-din-Haddar  in  1827,  who  at ’once 
plunged  into  the  very  slums  of  degradation.  Upon  his 
native  genius  for  and  heredity  in  vice  he  engrafted  all 
the  lowest  forms  of  foreign  abominations.  He  was 
succeeded  by  one  worthy  of  his  example,  the  last 
Wajia  Ali,  in  1842,  who  built  the  Kaiser  Baugh  in 
Lucknow  already  described,  on  which  he  spent  a mil- 
lion pounds  sterling.  He  had  one  thousand  wives, 
and  according  to  Mohammedan  law  was  required  to 
be  husband  to  them  all.  His  abominations,  wiich 
would  not  have  shocked  his  people  if  they  had  not 
been  so  extravagant,  were  reported  to  the  British  In- 
dian government,  and  gave  Lord  Dalhousie  the  oppor- 
tunity he  desired  to  annex  the  country  and  dispose 
of  the  feeble  voluptuary,  who  instead  of  walking 
rather  dragged  his  legs  after  his  diseased  body.  He 
was  removed  to  Calcutta  in  1856,  and  this  was  the 
lighted  match  which  set  Oudh  afire,  and  resulted 
in  the  butcheries  of  Cawnpore  and  Lucknow.  This 
mutiny  ought  not  to  have  been  a surprise  in 
view  of  such  antecedents  as  the  East  India  Com- 
pany’s godless  rule,  their  rapacity  and  their  hatred 
of  the  Christian  religion.  The  reward  of  the  native 
princes  for  their  faithfulness  was  to  be  drawn  into 
the  jaws  of  this  great  boa  constrictor.  The  creature, 
known  as  the  King  of  Oudh,  lived  in  what  in  Euro- 


,515 


pean  estimation  was  prodigal  luxury.  He  had  a pen- 
sion from  the  Anglo-Indian  government  of  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty-five  thousand  pounds  per  annum. 
But  he  was  so  poor  he  could  only  support  four  hundred 
wives  in  Calcutta.  He  was  in  his  penury  “ very  much 
married,”  and  no  doubt  died  of  the  “ muchness”  of  the 
institution.  His  great  palace  and  its  wonders  in  the 
form  of  luxurious  furnishings  and  his  large  collection 
of  wild  animals  and  serpents  were  sold  under  the 
hammer.  The  amount  of  costly  furnishings  of  every 
kind,  if  stated,  would  be  thought  fabulous.  Boxes 
of  rare  fiirniture  and  bric-a-brac,  purchased  in  Eu- 
rope, were  piled  up  in  the  rooms  of  the  palace  un- 
opened, while,  it  is  said,  the  King  and  his  wives 
squatted  on  their  native  mats  and  ate  with  their  fingers. 
The  poor  creature  did  not  use  scarcely  any  part 
of  his  palace.  He  had  little  intellect,  was  a self- 
cultivated  Oriental  idiot,  and  the  world  is  well  rid  of 
him.  His  English  masters  were  governed  by  greed, 
and  ministered  to  his  crimes  to  gratify  it,  but  it  all 
resulted  in  the  interest  of  India  and  humanity. 

Another  Calcutta  institution,  we  suppose,  is  the  mov- 
ing  of  the  efiects  of  foreigners.  Such  an  expedition 
from  one  locality  to  another  was  witnessed.  It  was  a. 
strange  procedure.  There  seemed  to  be  a servant,, 
or  servants,  for  every  single  article,  head  and  shoul- 
ders did  the  work.  Each  table  rested  on  a head  cor- 
responding to  each  leg ; every  article  was  mounted  on, 
from  one  to  eight  heads  ; mattresses  were  laid  on  heads,, 
bedsteads  and  bureaus  on  heads  ; rugs  and  mirrors  were 
borne  in  the  same  manner ; every  native  servant  had! 
something.  They  did  not  proceed  individually,  but 
when  every  article  in  the  house  had  been  poised  on  a 
cranium  they  all  started  together ; the  largest  articles 


516 


on  the  greatest  number  of  heads  first ; then  the  next 
number,  until  the  simple  articles  which  could  rest  on  a 
single  head.  Some  had  brooms,  some  mats,  some  tubs 
and  kitchen  utensils,  and  the  last,  bringing  up  the  rear 
of  the  procession  as  orderly  as  a Philadelphia  funeral, 
were  eight  men,  each  crowned  by  eight  unmentionable 
utensils,  handles  turned  to  their  backs,  glistening  glori- 
ously in  the  sun. 


CHAPTER  XLIX. 

MISSIONARY  HUMBUGS.” 

This  is  a senseless  common-place  sneer  with 
multitudes  of  ignoramuses,  who  visit  India, 
and  who,  by  that  law  known  popularly  as  “birds 
of  a feather,  flock  together,”  find  each  other.  Such 
find  their  kind  by  instinct,  and  fortify  each  other 
in  the  propagation  of  hackneyed  lies.  Men  satur- 
ated with  rum,  who  frequent  brothels,  say  that  mis- 
sionaries are  humbugs ; men  who  . live  in  constant 
breach  of  the  Seventh  Commandment  echo  it ; like- 
wise loose  livers,  infidels,  spiritualists.  Madam 
Blavatsky  and  Colonel  Olcott,  et  id  genus,  shout 
it  so  that  all  the  world  can  hear ; and  this  with 
some  reason,  for  their  trickeries  have  more  than 
once  been  exposed  by  these  peerless  and  scholarly  men. 
“Lazy  beggars”  is  another  form  of  reproach,  while 
others  say  that  their  efforts  are  well  meant,  but  don’t 
amount  to  any  thing.  Facts  withstand  all  surgings  of 
the  slums.  The  census  returns  in  the  Empire  give  the 
number  of  native  Christians  connected  with  the 
Protestant  churches  in  India  as  nearly  two  hundred 


517 


and  fifty  thousand,  and  this  represents  Protestant 
missionary  efforts  of  a century.  These  are  church 
members ; and  do  not  represent  those  who  are 
dominated  by  this  influence,  nor  children  of  believing 
parents,  nor  as  great  a number  in  the  Christian 
schools  of  the  Empire.  What  does  it  amount  to? 
Let  the  British  government  answer  out  of  its  Blue 
Book,  as  it  has  so  often  done.  If  to  this  is  added  the 
work  of  Roman  Catholic  missions,  the  longest  in  the 
field,  the  number  is  raised -to  over  a million.  What  is 
the  value  of  this?  Suttee  has  been  abolished;  also 
child- marriage  in  parts  of  India;  and  the  best  of 
the  natives  are  discussing  the  change  seriously  every- 
where. The  ideal  standard  of  Christianity  has  been 
raised,  so  that  the  British  army  has  been  called 
to  a halt  in  its  nefarious  business  of  legalized 
prostitution,  supported  by  a Christian  govern- 
ment. The  cry  of  not  more  than  a half  dozen 
missionaries  in  London,  supported  by  those  who 
believed  in  them,  has  shaken  both  the  home  and  Indian 
government  into  an  awakened  sense  of  decency.  Has 
any  greater  evidence  of  moral  power  appeared  in  any 
Christian  country  on  earth?  They  are  denounced  as 
“ humbugs,”  but  they  have  succeeded  in  humbugging 
people  to  give  up  the  disgusting  practices  of  ages,  and 
are  strong  enough  to  call  the  English  government  in 
both  Britain  and  India  to  an  account,  and  to  compel 
it  to  act  on  the  side  of  religious  morality. 

The  nation  has  caught  the  enthusiasm  of  the 
missionaries  for  knowledge.  They  are  knocking  and 
pleading  at  its  gates  everywhere.  Multitudes  of 
the  Baboos, . the  wealthier  and  cultivated  classes, 
are  desiring  to  have  their  wives  educated.  Man 
has  come  in  India  to  feel  the  force  of  the  Bible 


518 


statement  that  it  is  not  good  for  man  to  be 
alone.  Moral  and  intellectual  isolation  leads  to 
inanity.  Woman  is  the  God-given  stimulant  to 
man’s  moral  and  intellectual  nature.  What  great 
thought  or  aspirations  could  the  grandest  genius  have 
in  a household  of  chatteriug  monkeys?  Man  can- 
not rise  with  woman  hanging  as  a clog  ever  at  his  feet. 
The  Hindu  people  have  genius,  and  more,  have  sub- 
stantial talents,  which  would  bring  them  to  the  front  in 
national,  intellectual  and  moral  greatness.  They  are 
diligent,  patient  and  docile.  But  all  efforts,  until 
Christianity  took  up  the  work,  began  at  the  wrong 
end  of  society.  Woman  was  left  out.  The  mothers 
make  a nation,  but  these  mothers  can  only  be  reached 
by  their  own  kind.  Hence  the  Zenana  phase  of  the 
work  is  beginning  at  the  right  end.  Here  is  the  lever 
that  will  overturn  the  practices  of  dead  centuries. 

Such  incidents  as  the  following  illustrate  this.  Dr. 
Valentine,  a Scotch  missionary  of  the  Free  Church, 
was  travelling  through  Kajputana;  the  wife  of  the 
Rajah  was  very  sick;  he  heard  of  the  Christian  medi- 
cal missionary,  and  sent  for  him  to  treat  her;  but 
the  wife  would  rather  have  died  than  that  any  man 
should  look  on  her  face.  All  her  husband  could  get 
her  to  do  was  to  put  her  tongue  through  a hole  in  a 
screen  and  to  allow  him  to  put  his  fingers  through  to  feel 
her  pulse.  She  recovered  under  the  treatment,  and  the 
Rajah  was  so  grateful  that  he  would  not  hear  of  the 
Doctor’s  leaving  his  kingdom.  He  offered  him  three 
thousand  dollars  a year  if  he  would  stay  in  his  terri- 
tory, and  told  him  he  might  preach  where  he  pleased 
and  as  much  as  he  desired. 

We  have  now  come  abreast  of  one  of  our 
American  missionary  organizations — the  Woman’s 


519 


Union  Mission.  The  association  has  eleven  ladies 
employed,  who,  besides  their  direct  labors,  have  the 
supervision  of  thirty-five  native  teachers,  having 
about  eight  hundred  women  of  the  higher  classes 
under  instruction.  They  reduce  the  labor  of  going 
from  house  to  house  by  having  a meeting  of  several 
women  at  one  of  their  houses.  They  are  taught  plain 
sewing,  reading,  writing  in  English  and  Bengali.  It 
is  an  interesting  sight  to  see  the  Zenana  teachers  start 
for  their  work.  They  are  more  than  welcome  to  the 
hungry  souls  and  minds.  Their  messages  are  caught 
from  their  lips  with  avidity.  The  native  women  have 
never  heard  any  thing  so  wonderful  before.  They  are  as 
eager,  when  once  the  mind  is  aroused,  as  a bevy  of  chil- 
dren for  stories.  There  is  often  only  one  chair  in  the 
apartment ; this  is  for  the  missionary.  They  all  squat, 
or  sit  about,  at  her  feet.  They  desire  to  learn  em- 
broidery and  hear  stories,  but  they  are  obliged  in  order 
to  get  these  to  learn  the  alphabet,  and  from  this  on  to 
spelling  and  reading ; and  so  these  faithful  Christian 
women  have  taken  hold  at  the  right  end  of  the  only 
means  to  the  redemption  of  India.  The  mission  is 
well-located  in  Calcutta,  with  fairly  good  buildings. 

One  of  the  early  roots,  which  has  stayed  in  the  soil, 
sending  out  constant  scions,  is  the  work  of  Miss  Cook, 
begun  in  1821.  This  school  for  girls  almost  took 
the  breath  out  of  the  natives.  This  work  was  inaugu- 
rated by  the  Church  Missionary  Society  of  England, 
one  of  the  most  successful  in  all  the  ages  of  soul-sav- 
ing service.  Miss  Cook  began  with  one  pupil  the  first 
day,  and  thirteen  the  second.  Soon  three  schools  were 
established  with  about  fifty  pupils.  At  the  close  of 
1825  there  were  thirty  schools  and  four  hundred 
pupils.  One  of  the  native  princes,  Kajah  Bordenath 


520 


Koy,  gives  two  hundred  pounds  a year  in  support  of 
this  work. 

The  Society  for  the  Propagation  of  the  Gospel  fol- 
lowed soon  afrer.  It  has  a strong  organization  in  Cal- 
cutta, and  a flourishing  n\ission  in  Chotamagpore  of 
more  than  eleven  thousand  members. 

Orissa  is  the  hardest  spot  in  Indian  heathenism. 
The  greatest  Juggernaut  temple  in  the  country  is  at 
Puri,  in  this  province.  The  structure  shows  a great 
dome  on  the  principal  edifice,  rising  above  two  lower 
ones.  This  dome  is  two  hundred  feet  high.  In  the 
main  building  are  Juggernaut  and  his  brother  Bullub- 
pudra,  and  his  sister  Soobhoodra.  In  the  next  room, 
dancing  girls  perform  for  the  entertainment  of  the 
Juggernaut  family.  Great  quantities  of  food  are 
brought  before  these  gods.  They  are  only  entitled  to 
the  smell;  the  Brahmins  eat  it.  The  enclosure  is  six 
hundred  feet  square,  and  the  wall  twenty  feet  high. 

~ The  idol  is  the  consummation  of  ugliness ; his  hands 
and  feet  are  made  of  gold.  The  Brahmins  fit  it  out 
in  Cashmere  shawls  and  jewels,  and  like  the  bride, 
who  took  off  her-  false  nose  and  teeth  as  she  retired, 
this  idol  has  his  hands  and  feet  and  toggery  taken, 
off  at  night  lest  some  of  his  devotees  should  get  away 
with  them. 

The  car  is  a platform  thirty-four  feet  square,  forty- 
three  feet  high,  mounted  on  sixteen  great  wheels  and 
hauled  by  six  heavy  ropes  three  hundred  feet  in. 
length.  Juggernaut  is  entitled,  according  to  Brah- 
min descriptions,  to  be  known  as  the  god  of  nastiness. 
The  descriptions  of  the  priests  respecting  this  attribute 
» are  abominably  obscene,  and  according  to  the  details 
of  filthy  and  unbridled  imaginations  is  the  loudness  of 
the  applause.  This  scrap  of  history  is  introduced  to 


521 


show  that  there  is  no  heathenism  so  desperate  that 
Christian  missionaries  have  not  modified  it. 

‘ In  1821  the  General  Baptist  Missionary  Society 
sent  out  Mr.  Lacy  to  establish  a station  at  Cuttack, 
the  capital  of  the  province  of  Orissa.  Three  mission- 
aries labored  six  years  without  a convert.  The  Society 
in  1880  had  six  churches,  nine  hundred  and  ninety- 
four  actual  communicants  and  twenty-eight  hundred 
and  twenty-two  holding  the  Christian  faith. 

The  Free-Will  Baptists  began  work  in  the  country 
of  Jugeernaut  in  1836.  In  1879  this  Society  had  in 
Orissa  five  congregations,  four  hundred  and  seventy- 
eight  communicants  and  four  hundred  and  fifty-three 
pupils  under  instruction,  with  seventeen  young  natives 
preparing  for  the  Free-Will  Baptist  ministry. 

The  Church  of  Scotland  was  behind  in  missionary 
zeal  and  effort,  but  when  they  did  begin  their  work 
were  wonderfully  successful  under  the  leadership  of 
that  remarkable  missionary.  Dr.  Alexander  DuflL 
He  entered  the  field  in  1829,  was  a scholar  and 
thinker,  a man  of  great  executive  powers,  and  as 
fearless  as  great.  He  was  left  to  his  own  judgment 
in  his  work,  thus  evincing  great  wisdom  on  the 
part  of  the  society  that  sent  him.  Multitudes  have 
been  crippled  by  grevious  home  meddling.  He  de- 
termined to  establish  a great  English  school  for  the 
natives ; he  would  teach  them  the  religion  of  Christ 
in  a language  which  would  not  debauch  its  truth.  In 
these  schools  he  made  the  Bible  the  chief  text-book. 
He  foresaw  that  if  the  English  government  held  India 
that  it  could  never  suit  itself  to  the  multitudes  of 
dialects  spoken.  He  saw  that  the  trade  of  the  Em- 
pire must  go  through  the  channel  of  the  English 
language,  and  that  it  would  ever  be  taking  the  young 


522 


life  of  the  nation  with  it.  He  opened  his  school 
against  the  evil  predictions  of  everybody,  in  1830. 
He  brought  the  Bible  into  immediate  competition 
with  their  sacred  books,  and  set  them  to  fighting  for 
their  religion.  They  had  to  meet  it  in  the  mouths  of 
their  children.  The  young  men  went  to  his  schools, 
talked  about  the  sacred  classic,  and  absorbed  the 
spirit  of  their  great  teacher. 

The  Brahmins  were  compelled  to  examine  the  Bible, 
to  refute  it,  and  in  the  minds  of  many  its  superiority  was 
apparent.  The  following  testimony  of  a learned 
Brahmin  will  stand  against  some  of  the  silly  slanders 
of  the  people  who  spend  their  intellectual  and  moral 
force  crying  that  the  missionary  cause  is  a humbug. 
In  the  presence  of  two  hundred  Brahmin  students  he 
said: — ‘‘I  have  watched  the  missionaries  and  seen 
what  they  are.  What  have  they  come  to  this  country 
for  ? What  tempts  them  to  leave  their  parents,  friends 
and  country,  and  come  to  this,  to  them,  unhealthful 
clime  ? Is  it  for  gain  or  profit  that  they  come  ? Some 
of  us,  country  clerks  in  government  offices,  receive 
larger  salaries  than  they ! . Is  it  for  an  easy  life  ? See 
how  they  work,  and  then  tell  me.  Look  at  the  mis- 
sionary. He  came  here  a few  years  ago,  leaving  all, 
and  for  our  good.  He  was  met  with  cold  looks  and 
suspicious  glances.  He  was  not  discouraged ; he 
opened  a dispensary,  and  we  said,  ‘ Let  the  pariahs 
take  his  medicine,  we  will  not,’  but  in  the  time  of  our 
sickness  and  our  fear  we  were  glad  to  go  to  him,  and 
he  welcomed  us.  We  complained,  at  first,  if  he  walked 
through  our  Brahmin  streets  ; but  ere  long,  when  our 
children  were  in  sickness  and  anguish,  we  went  and 
begged  him  to  come,  even  into  our  inner  apartments, 
and  our  children  now  smile  upon  us  in  health.  Has 


523 


he  made  any  money  by  it  ? Not  even  the  cost  of  the 
medicine  he  has  given  has  been  returned  to  him.  Now 
what  is  it  that  makes  him  do  all  this  for  us  ? It  is  the 
Bible!  I have  looked  into  it  a good  deal  in  the  different 
languages  I chance  to  know.  It  is  the  same  in  all 
languages.  There  is  nothing  to  compare  with  it  in 
our  sacred  books  for  goodness,  and  purity,  and  holi- 
ness, and  love,  and  motives  of  action.  Where  did  the 
English  people  get  their  intelligence,  and  power,  and 
energy,  and  cleverness  ? It  is  their  Bible  that  gives  it 
to  them.  And  they  now  bring  it  to  us  and  say,  ‘That 
is  what  raised  us ; take  it  and  raise  yourselves.’  They 
do  not  force  it  upon  us,  as  did  the  Mohammedans 
their  Koran,  but  they  bring  it  in  love,  and  say,  ‘ Look 
at  it,  read  it,  examine  it  and  see  if  it  is  not  good.’  ” 

The  new  mode  became  contagious,  and  those  that 
condemned  praised  the  Lord.  Wm.  Bentick  declared 
the  results  to  be  incomparable.  Other  helpers  came, 
MacKay,  Evart,  Smith  and  McDonald.  They  labored 
not  only  in  teaching,  but  with  converting  power  until 
the  harvest  came.  Many  distinguished  natives,  some 
of  high  caste,  were  among  the  saved.  They  suffered 
the  loss  of  caste  and  its  reproaches  and  inflictions, 
with  unconquerable  flrmness. 

The  Disruption  of  the  Church  of  Scotland  carried 
most  of  the  missionaries  and  their  converts  over  to  the 
Free  Church,  and  the  work  went  on.  The  subject  of 
Zenana  missions  was  agitated  in  1840.  Rev.  Thomas 
Smith,  of  the  Free  Church,  said  if  the  women  and 
girls  of  India  would  not  come  to  the  missionaries  they 
ought  to  go  to  them.  In  1855  he  obtained  the  con- 
sent of  several  wealthy  Brahmin  families  to  have 
Christian  governesses  for  their  daughters,  and  that 
was  the  first  systematic  Zenana  work.'  This  was  soon 


524 


followed  by  a bigb  caste  school  which  was  also  a suc- 
cess, and  so  the  work  went  on.^  It  is  said  that  Phidias 
so  formed  the  brazen  shield  of  Minerva  that  it  could 
not  be  held  in  any  light  that  his  image  could  not  be 
seen.  This  is  the  moral  and  intellectual  likeness  in 
the  thought  of  all  India.  Dr.  Duff  will  be  the  last  man 
to  die  in  all  its  two  hundred  and  fifty  millions.  He  is 
dead,  and  behold  he  liveth.  The  work  is  still  in  pro- 
gress, but  it  lost  momentum  in  the  death  of  its  mag- 
nificent leader. 

The  Established  Church  of  Scotland  came  into  the 
field  and  took  possession  of  the  original  College  build- 
ing, while  the  Free  Church  built  in  another  place.  The 
College  belonging  to  the  Established  Church  was  vis- 
ited, and  a gracious  welcome  was  extended  to  us  by 
Principal  Smith.  It  was  genuine,  Scotch-like,  hearty 
and  ministerial.  The  Principal  and  Professors  con- 
ducted us  through  the  class  rooms  while  the  stu- 
dents were  reciting.  In  the  department  of  Meta- 
physics, and  in  two  others,  the  request  was  made  for 
an  address,  seconded  by  the  students.  No  country 
produces  a handsomer  class  of  men,  nor  with  higher 
abilities  in  acquiring  knowledge.  The  recitations 
would  compare  favorably  with  the  same  departments 
in  either  Scotland  or  America.  These  are  men  of 
' quick  susceptibilities,  and  can  see  and  appreciate  a 
point  with  startling  quickness.  'We  have  never  ad- 
dressed a more  thoughtful  audience,  nor  have  we 
ever  had  from  Principal,  Professors  and  students  a 
more  enthusiastic  reception.  This  College  and  its 
Faculty  and  students  were  worth  a journey  to  India 
to  see.  The  institution  is  on  the  high  tide  of  pros- 
perity. 

The  Free  Church  College  was  visited  with  a desire 


to  know  something  of  its  work  and  progress  as  the 
successor  to  the  glorious  heritage  of  Dr.  Duff  and  his 
co-workers.  But  the  excuse  for  very  scanty  information 
was  that  they  were  in  the  midst  of  examinations,  and 
something  else  not  worth  remembering.  After  some- 
what limited  observations  wo  are  obliged  to  say  that  the 
Established  Church  people  usually  took  more  pains  to 
be  courteous  to  those  seeking  knowledge  than  those 
who,  on  account  of  their  Free  Church  principles,  have 
in  America  been  the  greatest  favorites.  The  Scotch 
churches  were  also  visited  during  the  religious  services; 
neither  of  them  were  very  well  attended  according  to 
English  and  American  ideas.  Nor  were  the  services 
so  inspiring  as  in  the  churches  at  home.  The  impres- 
sion made  by  what  could  be  seen  or  heard  was  that 
these  churches  had  not  reached  the  Scotch  element  in 
India  in  any  fair  proportion  to  their  numbers,  and  that 
many,  who  were  members  of  the  Church  at  home,  had 
drifted  into  lives  of  utter  irreligiousness.  The  tenden- 
cies are  in  this  direction,  and  the  blame  may  not  be 
altogether  attributed  to  want  of  attention,  adaptation 
and  attractiveness  of  the  churches. 

In  Calcutta  the  Kali  Ghat,  or  bath  of  Kali,  may 
be  seen-;  also  the  temple  and  horrid  idol.  But  in 
contrast  may  be  seen  the  work  of  the  “missionary 
humbugs.”  Fifty  years  ago  heathen  mothers  were 
bringing  their  babes  by  the  thousands  to  this  move- 
less, senseless  destroyer.  But  the  “humbugs”  have 
brought  these  rites  to  an  end.  The  British  govern- 
ment, inspired  by  the  work  and  progress  in  Christian 
public  sentiment  of  the  missionaries,  has  put  its  hand 
on  it  and  stopped  them.  The  temples  still  remain, 
and  disgusting  ceremonies  are  continued,  but  human 
sacrifices  cannot  be  made.  The  priests  pour  out 


526 


blood  so  that  it  runs  and  stands  in  pools  before  the 
idol;  they  may  be  seen  pouring  warm  blood  on  her 
tongue  and  wallowing  themselves  in  blood  as  an 
act  of  worship.  But  over  against  this  degrading- 
temple  the  “ missionary  humbugs”  have  built  a Me- 
morial Church  to  perpetuate  the  name  of  the  saintly 
Bishop  Heber,  author  of  the  song,  “ From  Greenland’s 
Icy  Mountains,”  which  has  inspired  the  Church  to 
sacrifice  and  battle,  and  which  we  expect  to  hear 
after  the  Song  of  Moses  and  the  Lamb  in  heaven, 
when  Christ  receives  the  heathen  for  his  inheritance, 
and  the  uttermost  parts  of  the  earth  for  his  posses- 
sion. 

The  Methodist  work  in  India,  started  by  Bishop 
Butler,  has  been  already  referred  to.  The  statistics 
given  will  show  what  these  “missionary  humbugs’^ 
have  been  doing.  In  1886  their  church  property  was 
valued  at  $202,404 ; parsonages,  $122,443 ; value  of 
orphanages,  schools,  hospitals  and  book-rooms,  $156,- 
550.  They  had  23  missionaries,  17  assistants,  32 
Eurasian  and  European  assistants,  282  native  workers, 
41  native  ordained  preachers,  203  "native  teachers, 
11  foreign  teachers,  3,527  members  and  1,183  con- 
versions during  the  year,  one  Theological  School,  with 
55  students,  8 high  schools,  with  1,091  students,  559 
day-schools,  with  13,761  students.  There  is  a phase 
of  the  work  which  the  Methodist  Church  has  taken 
up  with  great  success,  for  which  they  deserve  the 
highest  praise.  The  Eurasians  are  the  half-breeds 
born,  in  and  out  of  wedlock,  from  English  and  native 
parentage.  In  the  early  days  of  British  rule  the 
English  women  could  not,  and  would  not,  go  to  India. 
Many  British  officers,  civil  and  military,  married 
native  women,  against  whom  there  could  be  no  re- 


527 


proach;  and  many  others  ought  to  have  married 
them,  against  whom  stands  this  everlasting  disgrace. 
This  class  of  European  Asians  are  called  Eurasians. 
They  were  almost  entirely  neglected  until  the  Metho- 
dist Church  began,  under  Bishop  Taylor,  with  con- 
siderable success,  the  effort  of  organizing  congregations 
from  these  largely  English-speaking  people.  The 
plan  of  Bishop  Taylor  has  not  been  quite  successful, 
but  is  encouraging.  It  has  given,  at  least,  probability 
to  the  hope  of  self-sustaining  congregations  through- 
out their  missions.  They  have  fallen  on  what  they 
call  the  grant-in-aid  plan,  which  means  that  the  home 
society  will  give  as  much  to  the  support  of  a church 
as  the  natives  and  Europeans  give. 

Dr.  James  M.  Thoburn  has  been  a great  moral  force 
in  Calcutta  ; perhaps  the  greatest  in  his  peculiar  form 
of  work  since  the  days  of  Dr.  Duff.  The  largest  con- 
gregation, and  the  most  lively  one,  is  his.  It  is 
self-sustaining,  has  plenty  of  people  formerly  Scotch 
Presbyterians  in  it,  has  Sunday-schools  and  out  mis- 
sion stations;  also  a large  and  flourishing  female 
seminary,  w^iose  pupils  are  mostly  Eurasians. 

There  are  one  or  two  more  peculiarities  about  these 
“missionary  humbugs,”  which  are  worthy  of  note. 
One  is,  that  they  die,  regretted  by  the  people  whom  they 
have  humbugged.  This  is  a marvel.  It  is  not  so  in  our 
country ; when  noted  humbugs  die  their  victims  do  not 
cry  and  follow  them  to  their  graves  with  great  mourn- 
ing. “ He  loved  all  men  alike  and  never  despised  any 
one,”  were  the  words  of  the  Melanasian  boy,  over  the 
body  of  Bishop  Patterson.  And  after  the  death  of 
Rev.  Philip  Smith,  of  the  Oxford  Mission  to  Calcutta, 
at  a meeting  held  a few  days  after  the  mourning  had 
-spread  over  the  community,  Mr.  Protap  Chunder 


528 


Mozoomdar,  the  leader  in  the  Bramo  Samaj  since  the 
death  of  Chunder  Sen,  spoke  as  follows : — “ Truly  did 
^ the  Rev.  Philip  Smith  imitate  the  glorious  ideal,  by 
whose  name  he  was  known,  by  living  in  this  country 
& life  deep  and  profound.  What  shall  I say  of  his 
life  ? It  was  so  gentle,  so  good,  that  his  features  have 
painted  themselves  on  our  mental  vision  foi*  all  time. 
Manhood  and  womanhood,  tenderness  and  strength, 
blended  in  his  sweet  character.”  Such  overflowing 
love  to  people  of  strange  heart  and  tongue  and  color 
has  been  the  uniform  characteristic  of  those  who  have 
carried  the  Messianic  tradition  of  love  beyond  the 
bounds  of  national  creeds  and  the  home  centres  of 
national  faith.  There  is  not  time  or  space  to  take 
up  a dozen  more  of  these  missionary  societies,  as  de- 
serving as  those  mentioned,  which  are  doing  blessed 
and  abundant  work. 


Chapter  l. 

FRAGMENTS  GATHERED  UP. 

Before  leaving  Bengal  there  are  a few  frag- 
ments to  be  gathered  up,  to  give  a symmetrical 
idea  of  the  country  and  its  people,  though  the  observa- 
tions of  the  traveller  must  be  more  or  less  in  scraps ; 
but  even  these  will  help  to  give  a correct  idea  of 
a land  and  its  inhabitants.  The  Bengalese  should 
be  described  in  their  peculiar  characteristics.  The 
typical  Bengalee  is  efieminate,  with  no  more  power  of 
resistance  than  a sheep,  though  he  is  as  cunning  as  a 
fox.  Courage  has  been  wrung  out  of  him  by  the  more 
resolute  men  of  the  North.  But  the  law  of  compen- 


529 


sation  has  given  him  for  protection  a cunning  which 
is  marvellous. 

The'  English  government  would  never  think  of 
looking  in  Bengal  for  any  thing  but  a soldier  on 
parade.  The  mind  of  the  native  is  as  powerless  as 
his  body  in  any  ability  to  resist  oppression.  But 
Bengal  is  the  place  for  tigers  and  tiger  defence 
and  tiger  cunning.  Whatever  is  peculiar  in  a Ben- 
gal tiger  represents  the  force  and  tact  of  the  Ben- 
galese. It  is  the  country  of  intrigues,  of  cabals,  of 
ambuscades,  of  craftiness,  of  insincerity.  The  native 
is  an  adept  in  flattery,  in  deceit,  in  falsehood.  He 
can  tell  a lie  so  probable,  that  if  one  knew  the  truth 
one  would  be  bewildered.  Chicanery,  perjury,  false 
witnessing  and  forgery  are  his  strongholds,  into  which 
he  retreats  as  a coney  to  its  rocks.  As  a born  sharper 
he  is  unspeakably  grand.  This  may  be  the  effect  of 
rice,  a vegetable  diet,  which  makes  a man’s  conscience 
flabby,  as  well  as  his  body.  Vegetarian  diet  will  pre- 
vail, no  doubt,  in  the  new  heavens  and  earth  where 
there  will  be  nothing  to  fight  and  virtue  will  not 
have  to  contend  with  evil.  But  in  a world  con- 
stituted like  ours  carniverousness  is  a moral  neces- 
sity, if  backbone  is  at  all  desirable  in  our  person- 
ality. The  meat-eater  always  conquers  the  vegetarian 
in  both  moral  and  physical  conflicts.  An  example  of 
this  is  seen  in  tribes  bordering  on  the  delta  of  the 
Ganges.  The  Bengalese  occupy  the  valley,  but  on 
the  hills  is  a class  superior  in  the  very  things  in 
which  they  are  contemptible — the  Santhals,  descen- 
dants of  the  hill  tribes,  who  were  there  when  the 
Aryans  came  down  from  the  regions  of  the  Caspian 
and  settled  in  the  Valley  of  the  Indus.  They  are,  in 
character,  neither  Bengalese  nor  Hindus. 


530 

\ 


They  have  not  caught  the  religious  contagion  of 
either,  noi^has  Mohammedanism  been  able  to  conquer 
them.  They  are  naked  and  flesh  eaters,  who  feed  on 
snakes  and  animals  and  insects.  The  Santhal  is  not  par* 
ticular  about  his  diet,  nor  any  culinary  arrangements,, 
but  he  is  a man  for  “ a’  that.”  He  is  the  most  truthful 
native  in  India,  showing  that  it  takes  something 
stronger  than  cabbage  or  turnips  to  make  men,  who 
have  had  no  Christian  training,  truthful.  We  do 
not  go  so  far  as  to  say  that  flesh  eating  makes  the 
difference ; but  do  say  that  a man  full  of  good  beef 
is  more  likely  to  overcome  the  total  depravity  of  con- 
stitutional lying  than  one  filled  with  boiled  greens. 
These  tribes  are  as  harmless  as  they  are  truthful  and 
brave.  Their  religion  is  a childlike  trust  in  the  few  beliefs 
they  possess,  having  no  doubt  about  God.  Their  con- 
sciences are  active  in  deciding  between  right  and 
wrong,  so  far  as  they  know  one  from  the  other.  The 
Santhal  women  do  not  wear  veils,  but  are  passionately 
fond  of  jewelry.  A belle  will  carry  thirty  pounds 
of  jewelry  in  one  form  or  another  on  her  person. 

The  comforts  and  discomforts  of  life  are  distributed 
and  adjusted  according  to  mercy  and  justice  the  world 
over.  There  is  no  spot  so  cold  that  there  is  not  a 
warmer  side  within  reach,  or  provisions  of  nature  to 
moderate  the  temperature;  nor  is  there  a place  so 
warm  that  there  is  not  some  refreshing  mitigation. 
Calcutta  in  its  steaming  heat  is  intolerable,  but  the 
mountains  are  near,  where  a temperature  may  be 
found  ranging  from  comfort  to  freezing.  Dhargel- 
ing  sits  upon  the  side  of  the  Himalayas,  affording 
a deliverance  from  the  exhaustion  and  peril  of  the 
heat,  where  withering  babyhood  from  the  steaming 
valleys  can  get  vigor  and  smiles,  and  weary  mothers 

/ 


531 


can  recover  from  tropical  debilitation.  The  last  rays 
of  the  parting  sun  fall  languidly  upon  this  mountain 
city,  while  it  is  kissed  by  the  first  rays  of  the  new 
morn. 

In  the  twilights  of  a glorious  sunrise  Calcutta  was 
left  for  the  weariness,  storms  and  tossings  of  the  seas. 
The  passage  through  the  famous  Hooghly  was  made 
in  the  bright  and  balmy  hours  of  early  day.  The 
isles  and  banks  presented  a new  phase  of  life  m India. 
In  these  jungles,  coming  flat  down  to  the  edges  of 
the  river,  for  there  are  no  blufls,  lives  every  destruc- 
tive creature.  Here  the  battle  goes  on  between  them 
and  man  for  his  primaeval  sovereignty.  When  he 
rebelled  against  his  Lord,  his  subjects  in  turn  re- 
belled against  him,  and  the  contest  still  continues  in 
swamps  and  jungles.  Tigers  glide  sullenly  away 
before  the  noise  of  the  floating  monster,  with  its 
strange  cargo ; monkeys  hang  by  their  tails,  or  sit  on 
the  branches,  seemingly  discussing  the  situation  or 
ridiculing  what  they  cannot  understand.  Here  the 
boa  constrictor  finds  his  congenial  home  and  susten- 
ance ; alligators  lie  lazily  in  the  lagoons,  grown  fat 
on  human  bodies,  dead  or  living,  which  are  still 
thrown  to  them;  wild  hogs,  wild  cattle,  wild  fowls, 
every  creature  of  wing,  hoof  or  claw,  obtains  home 
and  living ; in  all,  it  is  a relentless  contest  for  the 
survival  of  the  fittest. 

As  the  ship  threads  its  way  between  islands,  where 
the  sand  is  constantly  falling  into  the  water  as  on 
the  Lower  Mississippi,  amid  wonderfiil  growths  of 
every  form  of  floral  beauty,  one  has  time  to  con- 
sider both  the  delights  and  privations  of  this  great, 
empire  of  Indian  life.  There  are  no  well-defined, 
changes ; things  shade  oflf,  blending  into  each  other.. 


532 


This  country  never  disrobes  herself ; never  changes  her 
garments  until  they  drop  oS  in  rags.  Man  and  nature 
in  this  respect  are  alike.  There  are  no  surprises  in 
sudden  incomings  of  vital  energy.  All  the  divisions 
known  are  hot,  hotter  and  hottest;  rain,  rainier  and  rain- 
iest; monsoon,  monsoonier  and  monsooniest.  The  hot 
begins  in  March  and  lasts  until  July;  then  the  exodus 
begins  to  every  part  of  Europe;  great  steamers,  with 
prows  set  to  the  Red  Sea  and  Mediterranean,  groan 
under  the  loads.  Of  those  who  cannot  get  away, 
the  Himalayas,  Afghanistan,  the  Dhargeling  spurs 
and  the  Nilgherry  of  the  Malabar  coast  receive  the 
^ worn  and  wasted. 

' Western  India  has  its  sanitarium  in  the  mountains 
near  Poonah.  It  is  fly  or  die;  for  two  or  three  years 
in  this  heat  thins  the  blood  and  poisons  with  malaria 
what  is  left.  First  is  the  hot  season ; then  comes  the  hotter 
or  the  rainy  season,  which  is  a steam  bath  from  July  to 
the  1st  of  November.  And  such  is  the  dependence  of 
the  country  on  the  monsoon,  or  rainy  period,  that,  how- 
ever uncomfortable  it  may  be,  every'man  and  woman 
prays  for  it  as  a hungry  child  begs  bread.  Famine  or 
monsoons  are  the  inevitable  issues  presented  to  all.  The 
monsoon  breezes  are  looked  for  in  May;  and  if  they 
do  not  come,  there  is  national  uneasiness.  On  the 
Western  coast  they  begin  about  the  10th  of  June. 
They  are  heralded  by  light  clouds,  or  alternate  clouds 
and  sunshine.  These  clouds  thicken  and  move  up  in 
battalions,  and  soon  the  war  of  elements  begins.  The 
breaking  of  these  monsoons  on  the  mountains,  which 
enclose  India  on  the  north  and  west,  and  north  and  east 
as  a bow,  is  more  terrific  than  the  thunders  of  a battle. 
Blackness  gathers,  over  which  run  wrathful  flashes  and 
resounding  thunders ; clouds  move  backwards  and  for- 


533 


wards  as  if  taking  position  in  some  great  engagement; 
resistless  gales  howl  like  lost  spirits  bent  on  destruction, 
before  which  the  abodes  of  men  are  as  feathers  in  a 
tornado;  houses  go  to  fragments,  and  fly  through  the 
air ; great  forests  sway  and  groan  and  are  torn  up  by 
the  roots  in  the  fury. 

Then  the  floods  come  as  if  the  sea  had  been  caught 
up  into  the  heavens  and  suddenly  turned  upside  down, 
and  these  are  emptied  on  the  mountains  to  come 
down  upon  the  plains  and  into  the  rivers  with  the 
velocity  gained  by  a fall  of  more  than  twenty  thou- 
sand feet.  Then  come  restorations  by  which  the 
seas  above  are  replenished  from  below;  heated  mists 
carry  oceans  again  above ; the  air  is  clammy  and  the 
human  body  has  its  moisture  drawn  from  it ; erery 
thing  is  saturated  with  dampness;  drops  gather  and 
stand  on  the  walls;  mold  collects  on  the  driest  objects; 
boots  polished  will  be  covered  with  a crop  of  fungi 
in  twenty-four  hours  ; yellow  spots  appear  on  them  as 
if  the  leprosy  were  breaking  out;  fires  must  be  kept 
in  all  the  apartments;  braziers  of  burning  charcoal 
must  be  put  into  the  closets  to  counteract  the  damp- 
ness. 

Then,  every  thing  seems  to  be  alive.  This  is  the 
time  when  serpents  begin  to  crawl  into  the  houses, 
to  drop  from  ceilings,  to  start  up  in  bathrooms  and 
sleeping  chambers,  and  to  hide  themselves  in  the  beds. 
Insects  swarm  as  if  the  very  air  were  passing  into 
this  form  of  life.  Creeping  creatures  innumerable  buzz 
as  if  the  millions  would  take  refuge  in  one’s  ears. 
They  dive  into  the  food,  and  combine  to  put  out  the 
lights  until  they  lie  thick  about  them  in  determined 
but  abortive  attempts.  Fleas  without  number  get  into 
the  beds,  playing  hide  and  go  seek  over  the  body,  giv- 


534 


ing  nipping  salutations,  which  make  the  martyr  cry, 
‘‘Would  it  were  morning,”  or,  as  “ in  all  the  desperate 
fight  the  cry  of  Ajax  was  for  light  to  see  his  foeman^s 
face.”  When  the  terrors  of  the  night  cease,  the  ter- 
rors of  the  day  come  like  giants,  refreshed  with  wine ; 
gnats  go  straight  for  one’s  eyes ; and  others,  if  one’s 
mouth  is  open,  will  go  for  the  throat ; some  bite  and 
others  sting  into  welts,  while  others  pester  by  their 
noise  until  life  has  its  very  hopes  flattened  to  the 
ground. 

The  white  ants  enter  the  contest  against  humanity. 
They  will  eat  up  the  ties  of  railroads  for  miles  in  two 
or  three  nights.  The  bridges  of  railways  must  be 
built  of  iron,  and  the  ties  will  soon  have  to  be  of  the 
same ; the  beams  and  rafters  of  houses  as  well.  They 
eat  up  a library  in  a week ; clothing,  furniture  and  bed- 
ding are  speedily  devoured.  All  food  is  consumed  in 
their  destructive  marches,  unless  it  is  kept  in  earthen 
jars ; bed  posts  must  be  set  on  glass  or  iron  dishes  filled 
with  salt  water.  These  are  some  of  the  torments  of 
India. 

But  joy  comes  after  the  wet  season ; all  nature  is 
washed  clean ; all  filth  has  been  borne  away.  India, 
like'  Philadelphia,  is  more  indebted  to  the  storms  for 
her  sanitary  condition  than  to  any  street- cleaning  con- 
tractors. And  when  the  cool  season  comes,  it  is  para- 
dise regained.  The  foliage  is  dark  and  velvet  like ; 
rich  in  texture  and  hues.  The  flowers  are  fragrant, 
and  gorgeous  in  colors  and  combinations.  The 
sun  shines  out  of  cloudless  skies;  the  days  are  serene; 
while  the  heavens  display  their  altar  fires  in  their  first 
magnitudes.  As  the  ship  ploughs  through  the 
Bay  of  Bengal  it  is  under  the  Southern  cross,  and 
the  constellations  shine  in  indescribable  glory. 


535 


It  was  not,  however,  long  until  another  experience  was 
encountered.  A cyclone  had  swept  by ; the  barometer 
showed  a violent  change;  every  thing  on  the  ship  was 
put  in  order  to  fight  the  elements.  The  captain  looked 
depressed  and  uneasy.  Cyclones  usually  come  between 
monsoons.  Fierce  winds  blow  from  June  to  October 
from  the  south-west,  and  from  November  to 
May  from  the  north-west.  They  lie  in  wait  on  the 
Bay  of  Bengal  and  sweep  up  the  Ganges  to  Calcutta> 
where  buildings  are  wrecked,  ships  are  beached, 
dashed  into  fragments,  or  go  down  almost  entire. 
During  some  of  these  storms,  thousands  of  natives 
perish  in  the  lowlands. 

One  of  them  had  passed  just  ahead  of  our  ship,  ' 
which  rolled  from  side  to  side  and  then  reared  up  until 
it  stood  nearly  on  its  beam  ends,  while  the  clouds 
deluged  us  with  torrents.  This  lasted  all  the  way 
from  the  mouth  of  the  Ganges  to  Madras.  Except 
for  the  danger,  it  did  not  make  much  difference,  for 
the  passage  is  dreary,  and  when  the  coast  could  be 
seen  it  was  scarcely  above  the  water  line,  being 
marshy,  scrubby  and  deserted,  while  hardly  a town 
was  visible. 


CHAPTER  LI. 


3IADBAS. 


FTER  days  and  nights,  tossed  by  monsoons  ana 


enveloped  in  alternate  fogs  and  rains,  when 
neither  sun,  moon  nor  stars  appeared  over  the  dreary 
Bay  of  Bengal,  the  ship,  which  had  been  true  amid 
the  treacherous  waves,  was  driven  against  the  hidden 
banks  of  Madras.  There  are  no  rising  coasts  along  the 
seas  in  this  part  of  India.  There  is  no  commercial 
city  in  the  world  so  badly  located  with  reference  tc 
the  sea.  It  is  on  the  western  shore  of  the  Bay  of  Ben- 
gal, noted  for  its  indescribable  treacheries.  Its  waters 
are  filled  with  venomous  creatures.  The  bites  of  water 
snakes  are  as  deadly  as  the  cobra.  It  is  filled  with 
moving  forms  of  death,  and  swept  without  warning 
with  terrific  storms,  so  that  the  business  of  the  mari- 
ner is  to  be  alternately  reefing  and  unreefing  sails, 
putting  ships  in  fighting  trim,  and  shutting  and  open- 
ing the  hatches.  Madras  afibrds  no  more  safety  to 
vessels  than  when  they  lie  in  the  middle  of  the  sea. 
The  roadstead  is  open  to  every  gale  except  from  the 
west,  and  in  case  of  storm  in  port,  if  such  a term  can 
be  used,  ships  have  to  run  out  to  sea  to  keep  from  being 
dashed  to  pieces,  or  set  over  into  the  interior  of  the 
Empire.  There  is  no  river  or  inlet  to  give  the  slight- 
est protection.  The  government  has  tried  to  wall  in 
a part  of  the  sea  into  a harbor,  and  the  best  eflforts  of 
modern  engineering  have  been  employed  but  to  little 
avail. 

The  walls,  on  account  of  the  terrific  rollers,  are  as 
likely  to  endanger  ships  as  the  waves  themselves. 


536 


537 


About  one-half  of  the  work  is  broken  down,  and  the 
rest  makes  too  small  an  enclosure  to  be  of  ^ any 
practical  good.  The  sea  laughs  at  them  and  the 
waves  run  and  jump  on  them  until  they  loosen  and 
sink  down.  Disembarking  is  something  appalling  to 
Europeans,  though  the  natives  with  their  rickety  boats 
care  little  more  for  it  than  sea-gulls.  The  country  is 
flat  and  unproductive  except  at  the  expense  of  painful 
tillage.  During  the  hot  months  there  is  a perpetual 
steam  bath,  the  thermometer  ranging  above  one  hun- 
dred in  the  shade.  In  calm  weather  the  surf  breaks 
three  hundred  feet  from  the  shore,  and  during  storms 
one  thousand  feet  landward  from  the  shore  line, 
with  waves  fourteen  feet  high.  During  the  winter 
months  there  is  an  almost  constant  sea  Dreeze  which 
modifies  the  heat  until  it  is  tolerable  to  Europeans, 
which  is  called  the  “doctor,”  and  lasts  from  noon  till 
night.  The  city  is  flat,  and  in  America  would  be 
called  “ Stringtown,”  following  the  line  of  the  sea  nine 
miles.  It  has  about  a dozen  suburbs,  some  of  which 
would  be  called  geese  and  goat  towns.  This  is  to  give 
our  readers  an  idea  of  their  style,  sanitary  condition 
and  character  as  seen  by  foreign  eyes. 

Fort  St.  George  is  the  centre,  and  perhaps,  rightly; 
for  it  has  been  the  pivot  on  which  the  destinies  of  the 
people  have  revolved,  besides  being  in  a good  position  to 
display  the  sainthood  of  the  Georges.  It  is  garrisoned 
according  to  exigencies,  but  usually  by  not  more 
than  a regiment  of  English  and  a few  companies  of 
natives.  North  of  the  Fort  is  Blacktown.  Its  favor- 
able reputation  consists  in  the  fact  that  like  Elim  of 
old  it  has  wells  of  pure  waters  while  the  number  of 
its  palm  trees  were  not  determined.  The  city  is  a 
garden  of  beauty ; it  lacks  position,  but  it  has  com- 


538 


pensation  in  its  wealth  of  tropical  growths,  in  its 
fruits,  and  flowers  and  everlasting  green.  The  build- 
ings are  not  costly,  but  in  efiect  they  make  a better 
appearance  than  the  expensive  fabrics  of  the  Western 
world.  They  have  sunshine  to  magnify  their  pro- 
portions, and  are  washed  clean  from  heaven  without 
money  and  without  price. 

As  usual,  in  India  the  flner  modern  buildings  belong 
to  the  government.  These  do  not,  however,  reach  the 
splendor  of  those  in  Bombay  and  Calcutta.  The  light 
house  to  the  north  of  the  Fort  is  one  hundred  and 
twenty-eight  feet  above  the  sea  level,  and  claims  to 
have  the  most  brilliant  light  in  the  world.  The  peo- 
ple are  not,  in  appearance,  equal  to  any  other  part  of 
India  in  strength,  energy  and  progress,  but  average 
fairly  with  those  dwelling  in  the  same  climatic  condi- 
tions throughout  the  world.  They  are  cursed  by 
chronic  lassitude.  Their  minds  are  quick  and  flashing, 
but  they  lack  the  courage  and  persistence  of  the  North. 
It  is  a wonderful  city  in  its  manufacturing  instincts, 
tastes  and  skill.  It  has  a population  of  about  four 
hundred  thousand,  twenty-two  thousand  Europeans. 
Its  commerce  can  be  estimated  from  the  number  of 
vessels  in  port  during  the  year,  amounting  to  about 
2,400  foreign  vessels.  The  imports  of  1871-72  were 
reported  at  £2,615,078,  and  exports,  £7,006,227.  The 
municipal  institutions  consist  of  a government  house. 
University,  with  European  and  native  Professors  and 
Teachers,  a valuable  Museum,  a Library,  male  and 
female  orphan  asylums,  a medical  school,  a branch  of 
Royal  Asiatic  Society,  the  Madras  Polytechnic  Insti- 
tution, the  Government  Observatory,  and  a Mint, 
with  many  other  buildings  of  less  prominence.  The 
interest  of  the  moral  world  in  Madras  lies  in  the 


539 


progress  of  Christianity  and  its  civilization.  Its 
political  history  has  been  anticipated,  and  the  actors 
while  under  French  and  also  the  English  domination 
have  been  described.  In  the  city  of  Madras  are  seen 
the  monuments  of  the  labors  of  the  Scotch  Presby- 
terians. The  Scotch  church  of  St.  Andrews,  one  of 
the  most  central,  historic,  and  imposing,  was  built 
in  1818.  The  English  Church  is  represented  in  the 
St.  George  Cathedral.  In  its  enclosure  are  the  monu- 
ments of  the  heroes  of  the  cross,  who  have  given 
their  lives  for  Christ  in  this  land.  There  are  two  or 
three  monuments  by  Chantrey ; ^ one  of  these  is  of 
Bishop  Heber;  there  are  also  some  by  Flaxman. 

The  first  missionaries  in  the  southern  part  of  India 
were  Danish.  After  the  death  of  Schwartz,  mission 
work  was  paralyzed  for  a time ; it  had  lost  its  head ; 
but  there  was  a revival  upon  the  sending  out,  in  1805, 
of  two  missionaries  of  the  London  Society,  who  estab- 
lished themselves  at  Madras,  and  who  were  joined 
soon  after  by  Kichard  Knill.  In  1815  the  Church 
Missionary  Society  entered  the  city;  and  in  1816  the 
Wesley ans  followed.  The  work  of  the  Danes,  which 
had  been  taken  in  charge  by  the  Society  for  the  Pro- 
motion of  Christian  Knowledge,  was  turned  over,  in 
1825,  to  the  Society  for  the  Propagation  of  the  Gospel. 
As  a commentary  on  the  words,  “He  that  goeth 
forth  and  weepeth  bearing  precious  seed,  shall  doubt- 
less come  again  rejoicing,  bringing  his  sheaves  with 
him,”  it  has  been  found  the  most  wonderful  field  of 
Indian  missionary  efibrt. 

The  Tinnevelly  district,  so  well  prepared  by  the 
Danes,  has  made  the  most  astonishing  progress. 
Tinnevelly  must  always  be  associated  with  Schwartz, 
the  most  revered  missionary  India  ever  had.  Sir 


540 


John  Shore,  Governor* General,  said: — “I  have  never 
heard  his  name  mentioned  without  respect.”  His 
character  for  sincerity  and  purity  made  him  the 
friend  of  all  men.  His  face  inspired  trust  and  his 
smile  won  affection.  He  was  master  of  human  hearts. 
When  full  of  years  and  with  honors  from  a heathen 
people  his  end  drew  near.  They  were  wild  with  joy 
if  they  could  only  see  him,  and  at  his  death  a long 
and  a bitter  cry  arose  from  the  multitudes  who  had 
heard  him  during  all  his  preaching  journeys  through 
the  South  of  India.  The  Rajah,  who  had  been  his 
friend  and  protector  so  long,  was  overwhelmed  with 
grief,  and  as  his  remains  were  to  be  removed  he  covered 
them  with  a cloth  of  gold.  So  died  the  apostle  of 
India  in  1798,  after  forty  years  service,  and  his  death 
marks  the  first  Protestant  mission  period  in  India. 

The  next  began  on  glorious  foundations.  We  must 
remember  how  limited  were  the  resources  of  the  first 
period.  The  entire  number  of  missionaries  to  the  end 
of  the  eighteenth  century  was  fifty,  and  at  no  one 
time  were  there  more  than  ten  in  the  field,  while 
they  had  to  begin  with  their  A B C’s,  and  with  every- 
body else’s  A B C’s,  and  endure  not  only  the  super- 
stition, idolatries  and  castes  of  the  people,  but  the 
diabolical  oppression  of  the  East  India  Company,  and 
a degrading  apathy  on  the  subject  in  the  home 
churches.  In  converts  it  was  the  golden  age.  In 
nineteen  years  there  were  19,340  persons  baptized, 
and  during  the  century  the  number  of  converts 
amounted  to  50,000.  In  Madras  as  many  as  4,000 
natives  were  received  into  the  Church.  Then  came 
a declension,  which  was  no  doubt  largely  attributable 
to  the  fact  that  there  were  no  men  capable  of  taking 
the  places  of  the  fallen.  Such  men  as  wrought  in 


541 


the  eighteenth  century  do  not  have  successors.  Their 
death  was  the  beginning  of  a new  era  in  both  men 
and  opportunities.  The  modern  work  is  more  thor- 
ough and  carries  less  driftwood.  In  the  Tinnevelly 
of  the  present  the  work  of  missions  most  concerns  us. 
The  province  is  at  the  southern  extremity  of  India 
and  is  separated  from  Travencore  by  the  Ghats,  a 
mountain  chain  running  from  the  north  to  south. 

We  cannot  follow  the  steps  in  the  progress  of  the 
work.  The  present  age  demands  results,  and  not  an 
exhibition  of  the  ladders  by  which  they  have  been 
attained.  The  missions  of  Tinnevelly  are  under  the 
government  of  the  foreign  missionaries  alone,  which 
deserves  consideration  in  missionary  circles.  They 
are  governed  by  local  councils  on  a well-considered 
feudal  system,  in  which  the  natives  themselves  take 
a principal  part.  Since  1877  the  members  of  this 
native  community,  under  the  care  of  the  Church 
Missionary  Society,  have  risen  from  22,000  to  44,000; 
that  is,  their  accessions  since  1877  have  been  22,000, 
their  numbers  having  doubled  in  six  years.  To 
this  must  be  added  the  work  of  the  Society  for  the 
Propagation  of  the  Gospel,  which  has  26,000  baptized 
Christians.  Tinnevelly  carries  the  banner  as  the 
most  Christianized  province  in  India. 

There  are  also  missions  from  our  own  country  in 
Madura,  and,  as  usual,  they  are  the  most  extensive 
and  important  in  the  field.  They  were  begun  in  1834. 
There  the  Tamil  is  spoken,  and  the  work  was  started 
by  missionaries  from  Ceylon.  The  first  was  Messrs. 
Hoisington  and  Todd.  In  1837  the  American  Board 
had  eleven  missionaries  in  this  field.  This  mission  in 
the  beginning  was  built  up  by  preaching  and  school 
teaching.  Two  years  after  their  arrival  they  had  35 


542 


teachers  and  1,200  children;  in  1840  they  had  3,316 
scholars.  There  was  in  1845  a considerable  loss  in 
consequence  of  a change  of  policy  in  the  Board,  and 
in  1853  the  heathen  schools  were  closed ; the  mission- 
aries were  ordered  to  abolish  them  all,  except  for 
Christian  families,  and  to  pay  special  attention  to  the 
multiplication  of  Christian  congregations. 

This  mission  had  peculiar  trials  from  the  indulgence 
extended  by  other  missionary  societies  to  caste  dis- 
tinctions, which  were  not  tolerated  by  it.  The  storm 
blew  over,  and  calm  skies  and  a purer  atmosphere 
came  after  it.  The  progress  of  this  work  shows  that 
turning  from  school  teaching  into  preaching,  making 
this  the  leading  instrumentality,  was  wise,  and  has 
received  the  blessing  of  God.  The  mission  has  now : 
native  ordained  preachers  13,  American  missionaries 
13,  native  preachers  135,  churches  33,  converts  11,389, 
congregations  217,  seminaries  and  boarding  schools  33, 
Christian  teachers  202,  scholars  4,261.  This  detour 
from  Madras  to  Tinnevelly  has  been  made  to  show 
that  the  Lord  is  not  slack  concerning  his  promise, 
*‘Lo  I am  with  you  alway;”  that  faithful  work  done 
in  heathendom  will  be  rewarded;  that  the  money 
given  in  America  has  been  well  and  faithfully  ex- 
pended, and  that  we  may  combat  the  contemptible 
lies  that  foreign  missionaries  are  idlers  living  in 
luxury,  and  that  missions  are  failures. 

But  our  own  countrymen  appear  once  more  in  labors 
to  save  India.  In  1819  the  American  Board  sent  the 
Rev.  John  Scudder  first  to  Ceylon,  and  then  to  the 
district  of  Arcot,  west  of  Madras,  among  the  Tamil- 
speaking people,  in  which  field  he  labored  thirty  years. 
Three  of  his  sons  joined  him,  who  desired,  with  their 
father,  to  cultivate  a neglected  field  among  this 


543 


people.  But  the  Board  would  not  spare  the  father 
from  his  field  at  Madras,  and  the  sons  occupied  the 
North  and  South  Arcot  district,  which  has  since 
become  the  special  field  of  the  Reformed  Church, 
to  which  the  family  belonged.  The  Rev.  Henry  M. 
Scudder  explored  this  region  in  company  with  the 
late  Secretary  of  the  Board  of  Publication  of  the  Pres- 
byterian Church,  the  lamented  Dr.  John  W.  Dulles, 
whose  missionary  zeal  was  only  measured  by  his  in- 
tense love  of  souls.  While  his  health  lasted  he  wa& 
peer  of  the  best  of  his  associates,  and  he  only  gave 
up  his  work  when  his  strength  had  utterly  failed. 
God  had  another  place  for  him  to  fill,  which  he  Jdid 
faithfully,  standing  in  his  lot  until  rest  came  and  took 
him  to  its  bosom,  freed  from  all  pain  and  care. 

Dr.  Scudder  died  in  1854  at  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope  while  on  a journey  for  his  health.  Two  more 
of  his  sons  joined  the  mission  in  that  year,  making 
it  the  most  famous  missionary  family  in  the  world. 
In  a population  of  3,000,000  a soul  could  not  be  found 
that  knew  of  the  Saviour  of  mankind.  But  twenty- 
five  years  gave  another  history  for  these  unsaved 
natives.  The  Scudders  had  gathered  a native  popu* 
lation  of  6,000 ; 1,300  of  whom  were  communicants, 
and  had  in  their  schools  1,000  scholars. 

The  great  work  of  the  Established  and  Free  Churches 
of  Scotland  must  come  in  brief  review  in  order  even 
to  outline  the  soul-saving  work  done  in  and  about 
Madras.  In  1835  Dr.  Duff’s  influence  indirectly  inau- 
gurated this  great  movement.  A committee  was  formed 
for  the  establishment  of  a school  for  native  education 
in  the  neighborhood  of  St.  Andrews  church,  after  the 
model  of  Dr.  Duff’s  in  Calcutta.  The  Governor,  Sir 
Frederick  Adam,  started  a subscription  with  an  offer- 


544 


ing  of  700  rupees,  and  the  school  opened  with  fifty- 
nine  scholars. 

The  great  man  who  was  to  obtain  immortality  through 
this  movement  arrived  in  1837,  Rev.  John  Anderson, 
the  first  missionary  sent  to  Madras  by  the  Assembly. 
The  object  of  this  institution  was  to  give  the  highest 
form^  of  education,  of  Christian  life,  and  activity  to 
the  better  classes  of  native  society  in  Madras.  The 
Assembly  .gave  specific  directions  to  its  mission- 
ary that  he  should  give  his  energies  to  imparting  a 
Bible  education  to  his  students,  and  from  such  as  God 
should  give  him  in  conversion  from  time  to  time  to 
raise  up  a native  ministry  of  preachers  and  teachers 
who  might  go  forth  to  evangelize  their  countrymen. 

The  institution  was  opened  April,  1837,  with  fifty- 
nine  scholars,  but  beifore  the  year  ended  the  num- 
ber had  increased  to  two  hundred  and  seventy- 
seven.  It  was  as  soon  broken  up  by  the  cantanker- 
ousness of  caste.  The  occasion  for  the  outburst 
was  the  admission  of  two  pariah  boys.  The  prin- 
cipal, Mr.  Anderson,  felt  that  he  could  not  refuse 
them,  as  the  object  was  to  save  men  without  respect 
of  persons,  and  he  could  not  justify  the  refusal 
before  his  own  conscience.  Besides,  the  refusal  would 
be  a precedent  which  would  cripple  him  in  all  his 
future  work.  He  planted  himself  on  the  principle  of 
perfect  equality  as  the  basis  of  his  future  operations. 
Petitions  from  the  parents  who  had  withdrawn  their 
sons  came  in,  and  deputations  waited  on  him  to  get 
the  dismission  of  the  despised  pariahs,  or  to  set  them 
on  separate  benches;  but  it  was  in  vain.  But  what 
always' comes  to  a man  planted  on  moral  principle 
came  in  the  end.  Soon  the  high  caste  boys  began  to 
return,  and  the  institution  was  stronger  than  before ; 


545 


and  soon  pariah  and  Brahmin  could  be  seen  sitting 
side  by  side,  which  was  a startling  victory. 

The  first  converts  from  the  institution  were  baptized 
in  1841,  and  were  three  of  the  best  students  of  high 
rank  and  great  intelligence.  Then  another  religious 
and  social  tempest  surged  all  over  Madras,  and  the 
institution  was  again  emptied  of  four  hundred  schol- 
ars, while  only  thirty  remained.  But  the  tide  of 
indignation  flowed  backward,  and  slowly  forward 
again.  The  schools  were  moved,  and  in  the  follow- 
ing year  there  were  two  hundred  and  seventy-eight 
present.  Those  first  baptized  became  ministers,  and 
held  honorable  place  and  influence  before  their  coun- 
trymen. 

In  1842,  two  other, baptisms  occurred  without  much 
agitation,  and  the  students  increased  to  five  hundred. 
In  1846,  eight  students  were  baptized,  and  at  the 
beginning  of  1858  ninety- three  had  received  baptism. 
In  1881,  the  numbers  constituting  the  native  com- 
munity of  the  Free  Church  Mission  in  Madras  were 
three  hundred  and  forty-two,  and  nearly  all  of  these 
were  well  educated,  the  result  mainly  of  the  school  work 
among  the  higher  classes,  who,  on  this  account,  became 
influential  in  the  community.  This  institution  has 
been  a well  spring  of  continual  good.  It  has  always 
had  workers  most  gifted  in  talents  and  piety.  The 
names  of  its  principals  are  known  not  only  in  India, 
but  wherever  men  and  women  have  been  interested  in 
any  form  of  the  work  of  saving  heathen. 

Anderson,  Johnston  and  Braidwood,  were  active  in 
the  troubled  times  of  the  mission’s  formation.  Since  it 
has  been  steered  through  perils  by  Campbell,  MacMillan 
and  Miller,  the  present  popular  and  efficient  Principal. 
He  is  a type  of  new  India,  progressive  and  inspiring. 


546 


a genius  in  his  place,  attractive  and  attracting.  The 
Scotch  Churches  have  achieved  greater  results  in  the 
three  presidencies  through  educating  and  elevating 
the  people  by  means  of  the  moral  power  of  this  in- 
stitution than  any  other  body  in  the  field. 

These  Scotch  Missions  have  had  remarkable  suc- 
cess among  high  caste  women  in  Madras.  In  1843, 
schools  for  these  women  were  commenced  in  Black- 
town  and  Treiplicane.  There  was  a boarding-school 
started  in  1847,  which  wag  a necessity  forced  on 
the  missionaries  by  the  converting  power  of  divine 
grace.  Many  of  the  girls  in  the  senior  classes  in 
the  day-school  became  awakened  to  their  spiritual 
condition  and  determined  to  leave  home  and  kin- 
dred, and  cast  themselves  solely  on  the  mercies  of 
God.  Shelter  was  given  them,  and  this  was  the 
beginning  of  the  school  over  which  Mrs.  Anderson 
presided  with  such  marked  favor  of  God.  The  com- 
munity exploded  again  when  five  of  the  adult  girls 
sought  baptism.  A writ  of  habeas  corpus  was  served 
on  Principal  Anderson,  issued  in  the  case  of  one  of 
the  girls.  The  whole  matter  was  referred  to  the 
Supreme  Court,  which  judged  that,  as  the  girl  was 
of  age,  and  well  qualified  to  determine  for  herself 
she  must  be  protected  in  h*er  purpose  to  be  baptized. 
Girls  have  been  of  great  service  to  the  Free  Church 
Missions.  In  1851,  there  were  eighteen  hundred 
scholars,  male  and  female,  in  this  Institution  and 
in  the  schools  of  the  Church,  four  hundred  and 
thirty-nine  of  which  were  caste  girls.  In  1871,  the 
entire  number  of  scholars  was  twenty-two  hundred 
and  thirty-three ; of  these,  eight  hundred  and  eighteen 
were  women. 

The  money  paid  by  parents  for  the  education  of 


547 


these  girls  is  steadily  increasing,  showing  the  growing 
influence  of  Christian  education  over  the  minds  of 
the  natives.  Two  native  churches  are  connected 
with  the  mission,  and  a medical  missionary.  The 
four  great  Scotch  Institutions  in  Calcutta,  Bombay, 
Madras,  Nagpoi#  and  their  satellites  had  in  1882 
eleven  thousand  students,  most  of  whom  were  securing 
a superior  English  education,  in  which  is  included 
a thorough  knowledge  of  the  Scriptures.  The  result 
in  soul  saving  has  been  at  least  twenty-six  hundred 
and  thirty-six  converts,  nearly  all  being  well  edu- 
cated. 

The  Established  Scotch  Church  is  working  side  by 
side  with  the  Free  Church,  and  doing  as  prosperous  and 
noble  a work.  In  1850  it  had  four  hundred  and  fifty 
young  men  in  its  institutions,  while  its  female  schools 
were  attended  by  two  hundred  and  nine  girls.  In 
1881  they  had  eleven  schools,  twelve  hundred  and 
thirty-six  pupils,  of  these  five  hundred  and  fifty-four 
were  women,  and  a native  Christian  community  of 
two  hundred  and  forty-nine.  Many  of  these  facts  and 
figures  are  culled  largely  from  the  work  of  the  Rev. 
M.  A.  Shearing,  and  while  they  are  not  within  eight 
years  of  date,  progress  has  been  very  much  on  the 
same  ratios.  This  source  of  information  has  been 
used  because  of  its  undoubted  integrity. 

Another  departure  was  made  out  into  the  sea. 
Wrapped  in  mists,  tossed  by  ungovernable  waves,  the 
ship  bobbed  about  like  a cork,  while  the  incessant 
roar  of  the  monsoons  was  terrible.  The  rain  did  not 
come  down  in  drops,  but  in  sheets,  as  if  the  bottom  had 
fallen  out  of  heaven’s  floating  cisterns.  Through 
the  darkne'ss  and  billows,  Pondicherry  was  reached. 
While  anchored,  the  waves  were  humping  their  backs 


548 


as  if  a thousand  pounds  of  dynamite  had  been  exploded 
under  each  swell,  and  the  ship  was  plunging,  prow  up 
and  stern  up  alternately,  and  almost  every  thing  taken 
for  the  sustenance  of  human  life  was  “ up”  too.  As 
the  prow  would  go  up  there  would  be  one  long  inter- 
jection, “ Ah !”  and  as  it  went  down  and  the  stern 
came  up  there  was  a long  heave  and  an  outerjection. 
The  decks  were  drenched,  and  for  sanitary  purposes 
there  was  plenty  of  water. 

But  in  the  midst  of  discomforts  it  was  impossible 
not  to  be  interested  in  the  natives.  They,  in  their 
tubs,  made  principally  of  bamboo  poles,  swarmed 
about  the  ship  as  if  bent  on  devouring  it.  Their 
boats,  manned  by  from  four  to  ten  men,  were  the 
craziest  crafts  ever  sent  out  to  do  business  on  great 
waters.  They  brought  fruits  and  products  of  every 
kind  for  shipment  and  took  back  whatever  had  been 
brought  from  Europe  and  India  for  them.  They 
shouted  until  the  ocean  felt  itself  beaten,  and  grew 
modestly  silent.  Their  boats  crashed  against  each 
other,  and  then  they  would  shout  and  scream  and  ges- 
ticulate as  if  there  would  be  a massacre ; but  there 
was  never  a blow  struck,  because  it  was  all  “ blow.” . 

One  of  the  strangest  sights  of  all  was  the  fact  that 
there  was  not  a rag  on  one  of  them  five  inches  wide 
and  a foot  long.  They  all  had  umbrellas  like  those 
known  among  us  as  of  Chinese  manufacture.  The 
captains  of  the  crafts  stood  on  the  sterns  giving  com- 
mand in  the  trousers  in  which  they  were  born,  and 
so  fleshless  that  their  ribs  could  have  been  counted. 
Bare-footed  and  bare-headed  and  bare-backed,  but 
sheltered  under  their  umbrellas,  they  stood,  tossed  by 
the  storm  of  waves,  and  of  waters  coming  down  too 
fast  to  arrange  themselves  in  drpps.  They  came  rather 
in  a celestial  splash. 


549 


Native  passengers  embarked,  which  was  an  ordeal 
that  would  chill  the  heart  of  the  bravest,  for  the  ship 
was  tossing  and  groaning  as  if  sea-sick,  and  the  little 
convoys  were  tossed  about  as  bubbles ; so  that  the  pas- 
sengers were  thrown  down  as  they  raised  themselves 
to  be  drawn  by  the  tackle  into  the  ship.  The  trials 
of  a native  girl  were  exceedingly  severe.  She  evi- 
dently belonged  to  high  caste ; her  father  and  mother 
were  with  her ; but  she  had  to  endure  an  exposure  so 
humiliating  to  a woman  in  India.  Her  face  was,  by 
the  violence  of  the  storm  and  the  handling  she  re- 
ceived in  saving  her  from  drowning,  exposed,  and  the 
wrapping  of  cloth  rolled  around  her  body  of  thin 
material,  not  thicker  than  cheese  cloth,  was  drenched, 
and  her  body  was  exposed.  When  drawn  up,  she  was 
nearly  denuded.  When  she  reached  her  mother,  who 
had  been  lifted  up  first,  she  put  her  head  in  her  lap 
and  wept ; and  though  no  word  could  be  understood, 
her  tears  told  the  story  of  her  fears  and  girlish  shame. 
These  winter  monsoons  are  cold,  and  she  shivered  like 
an  aspen  leaf  without  any  thing  to  keep  her  warm. 
The  natives  protect  themselves  from  the  effects  of  cold, 
not  by  clothing,  but  by  anointing  with  mustard  oil, 
filling  the  pores  of  the  skin  with  this  irritating,  stimu- 
lating oil,  so  that  it  generates  heat  by  counter-irritancy. 
The  oil  has  not  the  fierce  pungency  of  American  or 
English  mustard.  It  is  penetrating;  and  would  be  of 
service  in  anointing  after  baths  to  prevent  colds,  and 
to  keep  the  joints  supple. 

The  permission  of  the  captain  of  the  ship  was  sought 
to  go  ashore  to  see  this  old  town  of  Dupleix,  famous 
in  the  early  struggles  between  the  English  and  French 
for  the  mastery  in  India ; but  he  shook  his  head.  On 
further  importunity  and  the  promise  that  his  ship, 


550 


the  Tiber,  should  be  mentioned  favorably  he  con- 
sented, but  on  the  one  condition  that  his  best  sailor 
should  go  along,  a fearless  brawny  fellow,  who  neither 
cared  for  man  nor  winds.  We  were  lowered  into  one 
of  the  rickety  boats  by  a half  dozen  natives  eager  to 
receive  a rupee.  The  tossing  and  heaving  began,  and 
but  for  our  reputation  we  would  have  gladly  turned 
back. 

The  protests  of  the  one  left  behind  sounded  omin- 
ously enough  until  the  pier  was  reached,  and  there  it 
seemed  as  if  boat  and  all  would  crash  in  common  ruin ; 
but  at  last  through  the  luggings  of  a multitude  the 
landing  was  made.  The  thought  that  it  had  all  to  be 
gone  over  again,  did  not  stimulate  hope  into  assurance. 
This  chief  of  the  French  settlements  in  India  is  situ- 
ated in  the  district  of  South  Arcot,  in  the  Madras 
Presidency.  The  French  have  in  India  about  one 
hundred  and  eighty-eight  square  miles. 

Pondicherry  is  situated  on  the  Coromandel  coast. 
It  has  a territory  of  one  hundred  and  seven  square 
miles  and  has  ninety-two  villages.  The  total  French 
population  in  India  in  1872  amounted  to  266,308. 
The  population  of  Pondicherry  is  fifty  thousand.  It 
has  had  a vicissitudinous  history,  being  captured  and 
recaptured  between  the  French,  Dutch  and  English,  de- 
molished and  rebuilt.  In  1815  it  was  for  the  last 
time  restored  by  the  English  to  the  French.  Our 
visit  was  made  by  water,  and  in  water.  The  streets 
were  rivers  flowing  madly  to  the  sea.  The  first 
attempt  to  navigate  was  in  a baby  carriage ; for  here 
people  are  carried  about  in  carriages  with  handles 
behind,  like  invalid  chairs,  pushed  by  a man.  In 
the  front  is  a wheel  and  a long  handle  or  lever,  by 
which  the  rider  is  expected  to  steer  it  according  to  hia 


551 


purpose  and  direction,  but  there  was  no  go  to  this 
mode  of  conveyance  when  the  water  on  the  streets  was 
waist  high. 

The  only  carriage  in  the  town,  drawn  by  a horse, 
was  secured  for  the  pilgrim  in  the  deluge  and  his 
sailor  companion.  It  was  a State  carriage,  in  which 
only  nobility  rode ; but  the  price  offered  easily  raised 
the  pilgrim  into  the  place  of  official  eminence.  Seated 
within  amidst  the  cascades  from  the  clouds,  with  a 
naked  driver  with  an  umbrella  over  his  head,  and  an 
outrider  on  the  seat  behind,  the  tour  of  inspection  began. 
The  horse  was  a chestnut  sorrel,  and  the  swimming  cur- 
rent swept  past  his  belly.  He  breasted  the  floods  from 
above  and  from  below ; sometimes  the  waters  reached 
his  flanks,  and  then  he  would  snort  like  a hippopota- 
mus ; sometimes  he  would  stop  altogether,  and  coachee 
would  cry  in  a language  not  understandable  for  the 
passengers  to  get  out ; he  would  make  motions  at  the 
door,  but  the  answer  was,  “ Cannot  understand.”  The 
French  sailor,  who  could  talk  English,  would  tell  him 
to  go  on,  that  he  had  on  board  an  American  Coman- 
che, and  if  he  got  mad  he  would  shoot  somebody ; 
then  another  effort  would  be  made,  and  another  square 
reached.  The  horse  would  stop  at  times  and  try  to 
kick  up  behind ; but  the  floods  were  too  much  for 
him,  and  then  he  would  rear  and  snort. 

The  whole  city  was  out  witnessing  the  strange  sight. 
One  old  fellow,  with  a long  white  beard,  stood  out  in 
the  rain  naked  with  an  umbrella  over  his  head.  Side- 
by-side,  beginning  at  the  oldest  and  going  down  to  the 
youngest,  stood  in  a row  seven  wives,  with  nothing  on 
their  persons  describable,  but  all,  under  umbrellas, 
watching  the  strange  proceeding  of  the  American 
Comanche  on  a royal  ‘'tear”  with  the  only  horse  and. 
gharry  in  the  city. 


552 


The  drive  was  continued  through  a part  of  the 
suburbs  and  through  the  most  magnificent  grove  of 
Cocoa  Palms  ever  seen.  The  wind  and  rain  were  sway- 
ing them  backward  and  forward,  their  bodies  crossing 
each  other  in  bewildering  confusion.  In  this  park- 
like suburb  was  seen,  at  a distance,  a tiger  with  head 
down,  not  concerning  himself  much  about  the  Ameri- 
can visitor;  but  the  visitor  said  he  had  seen  enough 
of  the  Pondicherry  suburb,  and  was  quite  willing  to 
curtail  the  drive  in  that  direction. 

The  city  was  in  the  midst  of  tropical  abundance ; 
even  in  the  winter  all  was  in  bloom.  Every  kind 
of  fruit  appeared  here,  where  nature  is  so  prodigal 
of  her  gifts.  It  is  a Roman  Catholic  city.  Mission 
work  has  been  carried  on  for  centuries,  and  their 
labors  everywhere  appear  in  schools,  churches,  con- 
vents and  monastries.  The  government  buildings 
average  fairly  with  any  part  of  India.  The  people 
are  Christians  after  the  Roman  Catholic  kind,  but 
their  teachings  show  at  every  point  their  superiority 
to  Mohammedanism  and  Brahminism  or  Buddhism. 
The  circle  through  the  flooded  streets  being  com- 
pleted, and  the  royal  outfit  being  paid  for,  and  numer- 
ous hangers-on  being  satisfied,  the  pier  was  reached, 
and  Pondicherry  was  left  in  its  glory. 

And  now  the  time  for  farewell  to  India  had  come. 
This,  we  knew,  would  be  our  last  gaze  on  the  lovely 
country,  whose  images  of  beauty  will  always  be  present 
in  happy  reminiscences.  The  dream  of  a life  had  been 
more  than  realized.  India  had  been  to  us  vastly  more 
than  could  be  known  from  books.  No  more  had  been 
outlined  by  imagination  than  was  actually  realized 
when  seen.  From  our  entrance  to  our  departure 
India  had  been  a growing  surprise.  Her  people  grew 


553 


upon  us  as  we  became  used  to  their  almost  naked 
forms;  the  sense  of  impropriety  departed  through 
familiarity  and  the  human  form  grew  into  higher 
estimate  on  its  own  account.  As  a race,  they  are  not 
only  handsome  but  beautiful.  Such  heads,  such  eyes  and 
teeth,  such  erectness  of  carriage  are  not  approached 
except  in  the  American  Indian.  But  how  is  the 
manhood  of  India  fettered!  how  is  it  shorn  of  its 
possibilities  by  the  enslavements  of  caste  I how  is  she 
denuded  of  her  power  until  as  a nation  she  cannot 
throw  herself  into  any  beneficent  effort  for  her  own 
national  uplifting  I Farewell,  beautiful  India,  in 
which  we  received  nothing  but  kindness  from  the 
natives,  hospitalities  from  the  Scotch  and  English, 
and  cordial  and  fraternal  greetings  from  our  own 
countrymen. 


THE 


Moghdl,  Mongol,  Mikado 


Essays,  Discussions,  Art  Criticisms,  Political 
Institutions,  History,  Religions,  Rail- 
way Systems,  Fortifications  and 
Defences  of  India,  Afghanis- 
tan, China  and  Japan, 


SAMUEL  A.  MUTCHMORE,  D.D. 


VOLUME  II. 


PHILADELPHIA  ; 

Peesbyterian  Publishing  Compajcy, 
1510  Chestnut  Street. 

1891. 


AND 


BY 


Copyright  1891 

By  Pr©ibyt«rian  Publishing  Co. 


CONTENTS. 

VOLUME  II. 


PAGE 

Chapter  I, — Ceylon 3 

Paradise  of  the  East;  Precious  Stones;  Situa- 
tion; Size  and  Population;  Geological  Forma- 
tion; Gems;  Exports;  Flora  and  Fauna ; Life  in 
Sea  and  Air ; An  Enchanted  Island ; The  Sing- 
halese; Candians;  Tamils;  Moormen;  Veddahs; 

Home  of  Buddhism;  Demon  Worship 3-9 

Chapter  II. — Ceylon;  Its  Beauties^  Utilities  and 

Varieties lO 

Fruits  and  Spices ; Orchids  ; Banyan  and  Other 
Trees;  Arrogant  “Ancestors;”  Bears  and  Other 
Wild  Beasts;  Reptiles  and  Rodents 1O-17 

Chapter  III. — Animal  Life  in  Ceylon 18 

Elephants  without  Tusks;  Intelligence  of  Ele- 
phants; High  Caste  Elephants;  Elephantine 
Highways ; Outcasts ; Loyalty  to  Leaders ; Cau- 
tion; Capturing  Wild  Elephants;  Decoys;  Ele- 
phants as  Masons;  Sagacity 18-36 

Chapter  IV. — Ceylon;  Past  and  Present 36 

Ancient  Ruins;  Invasions;  Portugese  and  Dutch; 

Missions  of  the  American  Board ; Pearl  Fisheries; 
Crocodiles;  Musical  Fish;  Mammoth  Oysters; 

Digging  for  Gems 36-47 


{voi,  a.) 


ii 


PAGB 


Chapter  V. — Columbo 47 

Town  and  Harbor ; Monuments  of  Dutch  Gov- 
ernors ; Kandia ; Visit  to  Arabi  Pasha ; Preach- 
ing to  a Highland  Regiment;  English  Wesleyan 
Mission;  Historic  Dutch  Church 47-55 

Chapter  VI. — Twenty -four  Days  in  Deep  and  Shal- 
low Seas 55 

Passenger  Lost ; A Mourner  without  Comfort ; 

Malacca  and  Sumatra ; The  Home  of  the  Malay ; 


The  Malay  Archipelago ; Volcanic  Belt ; Bay  of 


Singapore 55-62 

Chapter  VII. — Singapore 62 

Churches,  Temples  and  Mosques;  Botanical  Gar- 
den ; Ceram  the  Sago  District ; A Rajah’s  Ruse ; 

A Nest  of  Pirates ; Dyaks ; A Waste  of  Meat ; 

Tigers 62-68 

Chapter  VIII. — A Munition  of  Rocks 69 

Island  of  Hong  Kong;  Geological  Features; 

Flora ; Insects ; Fighting  Mantidae  ; Snakes  ; 


Birds ; Location  of  the  City ; Ceded  to  the  Brit- 
ish ; Cyclones  and  Fires ; Crown  of  Victoria ; A 
Jinrickshaw  Disaster ; Moral  Deformities ; Mission 
Work ; Testimony  to  the  Work  and  Character  of 
Missionaries;  Enemies  of  Christianity ; The  Abo- 


rigines   69-85 

Chapter  IX. — In  China  Land. 85 


The  City  of  Rams ; Along  the  Pearl  River ; A 
“Floating  Population;”  Floating  Restaurant; 
Pagodas;  The  Dragon;  Missionary  Hospitality ; 
The  Five  Genii ; Fatshan;  Cities  of  the  Delta; 
Shrines ; Benevolence  Street ; Betting  ; Buddhist 
Priests ; Temple  of  Buddha ; Cost  of  Heathen- 
ism; Confucianism;  Buddhism  ; Three  Precious 
Ones 


(vo/i  it.) 


85-101 


PAGB 


iii 


Chapter  X. — Our  Countrymen ; Their  Homes  and 

. Work loi 

A Walled  City ; The  Tseping  Uprising ; Defeat 
by  Colonel  Gordon ; Seizure  of  an  English  Ship ; 

Capture  of  Peking  and  Canton  by  the  British; 

Schools  and  Hospital ; Mothers  at  School ; In- 
fluence of  Preaching  Chapels ; Basketed  Pigs ; 
Dispensary  Work;  Cost  of  Confessing  Christ; 


Railroads  as  Missionaries 101-119 

Chapter  XI. — A Nation  as  Her  Religion 120 


Taoism;  Temple  of  Horrors;  Buddhist  Hell; 
Ancestral  Worship;  “Longevity  Planks;”  Sig- 
nificance of  the  Queue ; Temple  of  the  Five 
Genii;  Chinese  Dainties;  Passenger  Vehicles; 
Hatred  of  Foreigners ; Viceroy’s  College ; A 
Wedding  in  High  Life  ; Shamien ; A Popular 


Consul;  Manly  Testimony 120-13S 

Chapter  XII. — Scenes  and  Observations  on  the  Coast 

of  China 138 


Swatow  ; Amoy ; Mission  Work  ; Problem  of  Self 
Support ; Church  Extension  ; Punishment  of  Dis- 
loyalty; Wooden  Judges;  Chinese  Homes;  Se- 
lect Family  Circle ; Binding  the  Feet;  Enforced 


Marriages 138-155 

Chapter  XIII. — A City  in  the  Delta 15b 


Great  Rivers;  Shanghai  Arsenal ; Beggar  Boats; 
A Chinese  Lady ; Loan  Associations ; Chinese 
Remedies ; Doctors ; Chinese  Business  Men ; 

Litigation;  Marquis  Tseng;  South  Gate  Mission; 
Mission  Press;  Bridgeman  Home  and  Margaret 


Williamson  Hospital ; Sectarianism 156-176 

Chatter  XIV. — Ningpo 176 


Chinese  Burial ; Home  of  the  Cholera ; Death  of 
Rev.  Walter  Lowrie  ; Confidence  in  Miss'onaries ; 
Missions;  Merchant  Fleets;  Chinese  Naval  Prow- 
ess; Rice  Christians;  China  Inland  Mission; 

Opium  Refuges;  “ Extreme  Unction.” 

{yoU  ii.) 


176-197 


IV 


Chapter  XV. — The  yapanese  Empire 

A Land  of  Living  Green ; Shintoism  and  Buddh- 
ism; Image  Worship ; Church  of  Christ  in  Japan 

Chapter  XVI. — Way77iarks  of  yapa7iese  History..... 
A Land  of  Flame  and  Flood  and  Tremors ; Ori- 
gin of  the  Japanese;  The  Arnos;  Aboriginal 
mericans;  The  Mikado  Divine;  Empress  Jirgn 
ogo;  Condition  of  Women  in  Japan;  Demand 
for  Educated  Wives ; Results  of  the  Corean  Con- 
quest  

Chapter  XVII. — JapuTtese  Buddhism 

Kabo;  Sects;  Nicheren  ; “The  Flowing  Invoca- 
tion;” Buddhist  Reformations 

Chapter  XVIII. — lntroductio7i  of  Christianity  into 

Japan 

The  Advent  of  Romanism ; Xavier ; An  Easy 
Transition;  Martyrs;  Foreigners  Banished 

Chapter  XIX. — Events  Leading  to  a Tragic  Ejiding 
Christianity  Persecuted;  Martyrdoms;  Rock  of 
Pappenberg;  A Re-animated  Christianity  ; Chris- 
tianity Caricatured  by  the  Jesuistry  ; Will  Adams ; 
Harbor  of  Nagasaki ; Natural  Resources  of  Japan 

Chapter  XX. — The  Reign  of  Feudalis77i 

The  Shoguns  ; A Dual  Rulership ; The  Decline 
of  the  Mikado  ; The  Sword  Omnipotent ; Revo- 
lution ; Revival  of  Letters ; Arrival  of  the  Ameri- 
can Fleet;  A Trap  for  the  Tycoon;  Abdication 
of  thi  Shogun;  Treaty  with  the  United  States; 
Exchange  of  Presents ; Edict  against  Christianity 
Revoked;  Advance  in  Civilization;  Yokohama; 
Street  Scenes 

Chapter  XXL — Revolution  and  Reformation 

First  Protestant  Missions;  Dr.  Hepburn;  Origin 
of  the  Presbyterian  College;  Celebration  of  the 
Complete  Translation  of  the  Bible ; Japanese 

Worshippers;  A Wedding 

{vol,  ii.) 


PAGE 

197 

197-204 

205 

205-221 

221 

221-229 

230 

230-237 

238 

238-245 

246 


246-258 

259 


259-268 


V 


PAGE 

Chapter  XXII. — The  Ozalca  and  Kioto  Country 268 

Ozaka;  Progress;  Missions;  Kioto;  Palaces; 

The  Sacred  Mirror 268-283 

Chapter  XXIII. — Rise  and  Progress  of  Christianity 

and  its  Civilization  in  Kioto 283 

The  Church  of  Christ  in  Japan  ; The  Example  of 
a Godly  Life;  Joseph  Xeeshima 283-292 

Chapter  XXIV. — Tokio,  the  Capital  of  Japan 292 

Buddhist  Temp’ e ; Mikado’s  Palace ; Temple  of 
Shiba;  Shrines  of  the  Shoguns;  Asakusa;  “The 
Helper  of  the  Sick;”  Educational  Institutions; 

Work  in  Kochi ; Progress  in  Self-Support 292-309 

Chapter  XXV. — Queer  things  in  Japan 309 

The  Dragon ; The  Phoenix  ; The  Kappa ; Wind 
Demon ; Thunder  Cat ; The  God  Catcher ; The 
Imp  Worm ; Shoji ; A Land  Without  Founda- 
tions  309-317 

Chapter  XXVI. — l^Vhat  the  Children  do  in  Japan....  318 
A Playful  People  ; Street  Theatre , Lotteries ; 

Games;  Kite-Flying;  Feast  of  Dolls 318-325 

, (vol.  ii ) 


CHAPTER  I. 

• CEYLON, 

Monsoons  and  ocean  swells  were  all  passed  in 
the  night,  and  as  bright  a morning  as  ever 
dawned  welcomed  the  weary  pilgrims  to  the  Island  of 
Ceylon,  a solitaire  in  the  bosom  of  an  ocean.  It  is  the 
traditional  paradise  of  the  East,  and  there  is  more 
ground  for  the  prevalent  belief  in  its  elements  of 
beauty,  healthfulaess  and  varied  provision  for  the 
sustenance  of  life  than  of  any  other  spot  on  the  earth. 
It  has  a climate  ranging  in  many  places  from  seventy 
^ to  eighty  degrees  and  rarely  going  below  sixty-five. 
The  changes  in  climatic  extremes  are  not  more  than 
ten  degrees.  If  Adam  had  such  a piece  of  real  estate 
in  fee  and  fooled  it  away  for  so  little  he  was  not  fit. 
for  any  thing  better  than  a brier  patch. 


1 


2 


If  the  people  were  all  holy,  it  would  be  a miniature 
heaven  worthy  of  the  glowing  descriptions  of  the 
Apocalypse.  Inde^,  it  contains  nearly  all  the  pre- 
cious stones  mentioned  there,  and  is  as  near  a realiza- 
tion of  the  statement  that  “ there  shall  be  no  night 
there*’  as  can  be  found  on  the  globe.  There  is  more 
wealth  to  the  acre  to  be  gathered  out  of  the  ocean, 
and  on  its  strands,  and  in  its  sea  beds  than  can  be 
found  in  all  the  Indies.  The  wealth  of  Ceylon  has 
never  been  developed.  A few  of  its  treasures  have 
been  eixposed,  but  only  the  few  that  require  least  toil, 
money,  machinery,  and  science  to  develop  them. 
Ceylon  is  the  Taprobane  of  the  Greeks  and  Romans, 
and  the  Serendib  of  the  Arabian  Nights.  It  now 
belongs  to  the  British  government,  and  is  a pendant 
to  the  south-east  of  the  peninsula  of  Hindustan,  from 
which  it  is  separated  by  Manaar  and  Palks  Strait.  Its 
dimension  is  24,454  square  miles.  Its  population  is 
nearly  two  millions ; there  are  about  fourteen  thousand 
foreigners.  Its  geology  will  give  some  idea  of  its 
wealth.  The  mountains  are  mainly  composed  of  meta- 
morphic  rocks,  gneiss,  with  intruded  granites.  There 
are  traces  of  dolamitic  limestone. 

The  soil  is  formed  largely  of  disintegrated  gneiss. 
Coral  reefs  run  from  the  northern  end  of  the  island, 
leading  the  land  into  the  sea.  The  hidden  wealth  is 
incalculable,  and  can  only  be  estimated  at  all  by  what 
appears  upon  the  surface.  Iron  in  carbonate  form  is 
apparent  in  great  quantities,  and  so  pure  that  it  looks 
like  silver.  Tin  is  found  in  the  alluvium  at  the  bases 
of  the  mountains,  as  is  also  tellurium,  nickel  and 
cobalt  in  small  quantities,  there  are  also  rich  veins  of 
plumbago.  The  wealth  in  gems  has  been  marvellous 
in  all  ages  of  the  world’s  history ; and  they  are  sur- 


3 


prisingly  cheap.  They  are  displayed  in  the  streets 
of  Columbo  as  formed  by  nature,  and  others  cut, 
polished  and  set  by  the  highest  art.  Gems  are  abun- 
dant in  the  alluvial  plains  at  the  foot  of  the  hills 
of  Safifragam.  These  consist  of  rubies,  sapphires, 
oriental  topaz,  garnets,  amethysts,  cinnamon  stones, 
cats  eye,  diamonds,  corals  and  others  of  less  value. 
The  most  abundant  and  valuable  are  sapphires,  one  of 
which,  found  in  1853,  was  worth  $20,000.  The  value 
ot  stones  picked  up  is  £250,000  each  year.  The 
pearl  beds  are  the  finest  in  the  world.  These  are  in 
the  gulf  of  Manaar,  and  the  yearly  revenue  to  the 
government  from  them  is  over  $100,000  a year. 

The  exports  of  Ceylon  to  England  in  1873  were 
£4,331,006.  It  has  been  the  greatest  coffee  grower, 
though  this  source  of  wealth  is  now  nearly  gone ; but 
tea  is  fast  filling  its  place.  In  1873,  coffee  exported  to 
Great  Britain  amounted  to  more  than  £3,000,000; 
cocoanut  oil  and  cotton  as  much  more,  and  this  is  only 
a fragment  of  its  resources.  The  island  is  built  on 
jewels,  and  is  covered  with  nature’s  living  wealth. 
The  botanical  treasures  are  indescribable;  it  is  a 
garden  where  the  senses  revel  in  delights.  Most  of 
the  flora  is  identical  with  that  of  Southern  India, 
but  here  it  is  more  gorgeous  in  color,  greater  in  pro- 
portions and  richer  in  odors.  Parts  of  Ceylon  abound 
in  beautiful  ixoras,  crythrinas,  buteas,  and  jonesias; 
these  and  other  varieties  bloom  in  the  forests.  At 
an  elevation  of  6,500  feet,  the  aconthacea  cover 
great  tracts  of  ground,  ahd  the  tree  fern  grows  twenty 
feet  high,  and  on  the  highest  ground  the  rhododen- 
drons are  like  trees  in  the  forest.  The  coral  tree, 
the  murutu,  and  the  jonesiaasoca  are  magnificent 
flowering  trees.  Fig  trees  are  planted  about  the 


4 


temples.  In  the  forests,  climbing  plants  reach  pro- 
digious proportions,  covering  the  trees  with  masses 
of  parasitical  foliage.  The  palmacese  are  abundant 
and  imposing.  The  cocoa  palm  tosses  its  feathery 
branches  to  the  zephyrs;  most  of  these  are  as  straight 
as  arrows,  but  many  are  lying  lazily  across  each  other, 
interlocked  in  each  other’s  branches ; there  are  20,000,- 
000  of  these  trees.  The  flora  and  fauna  vie  with  each 
other  for  the  most  striking  eflects.  There  are  sixteen 
species  of  the  bat  tribe,  and  they  are  not  the  dull  and 
colorless  creatures  which  we  despise,  but  arrayed  in  the 
most  brilliant  colors,  exquisitely  blended.  The  flying 
fox  is  from  four  to  five  feet  from  tip  to  tip  of  its  out- 
stretched wings.  Of  the  stronger  and  more  ferocious 
animals  are  bears  and  leopards.  There  are  plenty  of 
deer,  buffaloes  and  humped  oxen ; the  little  musk-deer 
is  found,  less  than  two  feet  long.  The  elephant,  the 
monarch  of  his  kind,  dwells  in  this  sea  bound  isle. 
The  wild  boar  is  lord  of  all  he  surveys  in  Ceylon. 

The  seas  are  as  full,  and  as  interesting  in  their 
variety,  as  the  land.  Great  whales  and  minnows  flout 
their  tails  about  around  its  coasts.  Bird  life  is  equally 
wonderful.  There  have  been  classified  two  hundred  and 
twenty  species,  peerless  in  plumage,  a fair  proportion  of 
them  songful.  Kobins  give  forth  their  songs  to  air  all 
balmed  to  receive  them.  There  are  the  long-tailed 
thrushes  and  the  flute-like  notes  of  the  oriole.  These 
all  wait  on  God  for  their  food,  and  make  the  sweetest 
music,  day  and  night,  from  all  the  mountain  zones  far 
down  into  the  plains.  Among  the  birds  of  flight,  whose 
plumage  and  motion  sweep  in  great  shadows  across 
the  earth,  are  majestic  eagles,  beautiful  peregrine  fal- 
cons, owls  as  white  as  snow,  and  thousands  of  smaller 
kinds,  with  and  without  gay  plumage:  enough  to 


5 


fill  every  perch,  contributing  in  an  essential  way 
to  the  wondrous  general  effect.  With  all  these  must 
be  combined  the  physical  features  of  a country  built 
without  a model,  original,  and  like  no  other  ever 
formed. 

The  island  comes  up  daily,  shaking  its  locks  in 
showers  and  torrents,  hastening  back  to  the  sea  again 
as  if  the  night  had  immersed  it  in  the  ocean.  The 
picture  of  it  in  the  Arabian  Nights  is  not  an  exaggera- 
tion, but  fails  rather  of  an  adequate  expression  of  what 
is  true.  It  seems  to  the  pilgrim  like  an  enchanted 
island  dropped  into  a beautiful  sea.  Its  hills,  the 
wrinkles  below  its  mountain-brows,  are  draped  in 
forests  of  everlasting  green,  while  from  these  lower 
altitudes  the  eye  travels  over  these  wrinkles  on  the 
body  of  nature  up  and  up  until  they  are  lost  in  clouds 
and  mist. 

Skirting  these  plains,  hills  and  mountains  are  the 
watery  garments  in  which  the  island  is  folded, 
while  beyond  is  a sea  of  sapphire  dashing  in 
broken  colors  against  a rock-bound  coast.  The 
beach  is  bleached,  and  the  jewelled  sand  sparkles  in 
the  sunshine  when  the  tides  run  low.  Over  these  glis- 
tening sands  are  cast  the  shadows  of  the  nodding  palms 
which  come  down  to  the  strand.  The  people  of  Ceylon 
describe  it  as  one  of  their  elongated  pearls.  Four 
parts  of  the  island  consist  in  undulating  plains; 
and  the  fifth  part  is  composed  of  a stony  skeleton  and 
buttresses  to  hold  it  up.  The  mountain  zone  of  the 
central  south  has  an  elevation  of  about  8,000  feet 
above  sea  level.  Piduru  Tallagalla,  the  dome  over  all 
the  highest  in  the  range,  is  8,280  feet. 

The  population  has  for  its  substratum  the  Singha- 
lese; the  descendants  of  colonists  from  the  Valley  of 


6 


the  Ganges,  543  B.  C.  They  have  never  changed  in 
custom  and  appearance  since  the  time  of  Ptolemy. 
They  are  an  effeminate  race,  with  fine  features,  black 
flowing  locks  and  short  dresses  about  their  waists  like 
petticoats.  The  women  wear  garments  much  in  the 
same  shape,  but  cover  the  upper  parts  of  the  body 
with  muslin  jackets  and  adorn  themselves  with  about 
every  thing  that  they  can  hang  to  their  persons.  The 
race,  in  its  un-Christ ianized  condition,  is  insincere  and 
cowardly.  Its  most  marked  virtues  are  love  of 
relatives  and  reverence  for  old  age.  Among  them 
men  do  not  have  all  the  immunities  growing  out  of 
being  “ too  much  married.”  One  woman  may  have 
six  husbands.  This  custom  was  once  universal,  but 
now  only  appears  in  places  of  luxury. 

The  mountaineers,  as  usual,  are  the  hardier  races. 
There  are  highlanders  in  Ceylon.  These  are  the 
Candians,  who  maintained  their  independence  for 
more  than  three  centuries  after  the  conquest  of  the 
lowlands  by  Europeans. 

The  Tamils  are  strongly  represented,  descended 
from  the  Malabar  invaders,  who  swept  at  several 
periods  across  from  Southern  Hindustan,  and  fought 
with  the  Singhalese  kings  for  the  mastery  of  the 
country.  These  have  been  represented  in  the  popula- 
tion of  Jaffna  for  two -thousand  years. 

The  Moormen  are  the  enterprising  traders,  and  are 
found  everywhere,  a people  who  have  no  historic 
origin,  and  are  not  akin  to  any  of  the  other  races; 
they  are  thought  to  be  of  Arabic  descent.  Tennent, 
the  best  authority,  believes  them  to  be  a remnant  of 
the  Persians  of  the  fourth  and  fifth  centuries. 

We  find  apparent  exceptions  to  the  statements  that 
no  races  have  been  found  without  ideas  of  God.  The 


7 


Veddahs,  in  a district  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  island, 
who  are  believed  to  be  the  remnants  of  the  Aborigines, 
are  hardly  above  animals.  They  have  shown  no  pro- 
gress worth  speaking  of  for  two  thousand  years.  There 
are  two  classes  of  these  Aborigines — the  Rock  Veddahs, 
who  live  in  the  solitary  places  of  the  jungles,  subsisting 
on  wild  beasts  and  vegetables,  and  sleeping  in  trees  and 
caves.  They  cook  their  food;  the  delicacies  most 
appreciated  are  roast  lizards  and  broiled  monkeys. 
The  Village  Veddahs  are  loungers  about  European 
centres,  watching  for  any  thing  that  may  be  picked  up. 
The  government  and  missionaries  are  doing  some- 
thing to  lift  them  out  of  their  degradation. 

Ceylon  is  the  only  place  where  Buddhism  may  be 
said  to  have  a home  for  itself.  It  was  driven  out  of 
India,  but  is  in  Ceylon  the  prevailing  religion.  It  is 
degraded  and  weakened  by  the  absorption  of  all  kinds 
of  corruption  and  superstitions,  and  lacks  the  purity 
still  existing  in  the  Indo-Chinese  peninsula.  Some 
of  its  demoralizing  adulterations  were  introduced  by  the 
Malabar  kings,  who  mixed  Brahminism  with  it.  Caste 
was  acknowledged  by  the  Singhalese  prior  to  the  in- 
troduction of  Buddhism,  which  is  antagonistic  to  it ; 
but  caste  was  so  deeply  rooted  that,  like  poison  ivy,  it 
smothered  that  to  which  it  clings.  Buddha  is  said  to 
have  preached  his  doctrine  on  the  summit  of  Adam’s 
Peak.  It  would  of  its  own  force  never  have  gained  a foot- 
hold, but,  like  all  prevailing  religions  of  the  Orient, 
it  was  forced  into  recognition  by  royal  power;  priests 
were  increased  in  number,  wealth  and  influence. 

Devil  worship  exists  among  many  of  the  tribes  of 
Ceylon.  It  without  doubt  was  the  original  supersti- 
tion extending  over  Asia,  and  still  survives  from  Siberia 
to  Southern  Ceylon.  The  Singhalese  are  more  under 


8 


its  influence  than  they  ever  were  under  control  of 
Buddha.  It  belongs  especially  to  the  Aborigines.  The 
Aryan  invaders  encountered  this  superstition  in  those 
whom  they  conquered,  and  their  night  yells  in  their 
attacks  on  the  foes,  who  were  taking  their  lands,  led 
the  Aryans  to  believe  and  call  them  devils.  The 
natives  and  invaders  soon  fell  into  each  other’s  arms, 
and  then  the  fears  of  devils  became  general. 

This  tormenting  fear  is  so  great  that  in  many  places 
the  doors  of  the  houses  are  not  permitted  to  be  opened 
southward,  lest  the  entrance  of  some  dreaded  demon 
should  be  facilitated.  The  most  of  these  demons  are 
supposed  to  have  been  human  beings ; especially  those 
who  came  to  death  through  violence.  A British 
officer,  mortally  wounded,  was  afterward  worshipped  as 
a demon.  The  wife  of  a missionary  who  died  of 
cholera  during  a journey  in  a desolate  place-,  was 
likewise  worshipped  as  a demon,  and  this  became  so 
great  a mania  that  her  remains  had  to  be  removed  to 
Madura. 

If  a woman  dies  before  the  fifteen  days  allowed  for 
purification  after  child  birth,  she  becomes  a demon, 
and  is  on  the  watch  for  all  others  about  to  become 
mothers.  A robber  was  hung  for  murder,  and  he 
became  so  popular  as  a demon  that  multitudes  of 
children  were  called  after  him.  These  imaginary 
tormentors  must  be  appeased : one  demon  prefers  the 
sacrifice  of  a billy  ; another  a hog ; and  a third  a cock.. 
Most  of  the  demons  are  supposed  to  dwell  in  trees ;; 
they  need  protection  from  the  weather,  and  seek  it  in 
boughs  and  branches. 

Dancing  has  as  its  beneficent  mission  in  Ceylon 
the  pleasing  of  the  devils.  There  has  always  been 
a similar  private  opinion  as  to  its  utility  in  many 


9 


places  in  America.  In  Ceylon  there  is  an  idol 
form,  which  is  a representation  used  by  devil  dancers 
to  frighten  ignorant  people  into  the  performances  of 
appointed  ceremonies. 

Nightmare  is  thought  to  be  produced  by  the  devil 
sitting,  squat  like  a toad,  on  the  breast,  winking  into 
the  eyes  of  the  sleeper  and  trying  to  look  him  out  of 
countenance  and  to  suffocate*  him.  The  devil  dancer 
is  an  indispensable  institution,  and  is  paid  for  his 
services ; in  our  country  he  is  not  so  considerate  of 
his  devotees,  whom  he  obliges  work  for  nothing  until 
they  become  breathless.  Devil  dancers  begin  swing- 
ing around  in  some  places,  making  a circle  with  their 
petticoats;  when  they  are  naked  they  work  them- 
selves up  into  ungovernable  fury,  the  excitement 
rising  with  the  quickening  motion.  Sometimes  they 
lash  themselves  with  a whip  or  cut  themselves,  and 
the  sight  of  blood  makes  them  wild.  They  open  their 
mouths  and  take  in  the  spurting  blood  from  a slain 
goat.  At  last  the  dancer  becomes  a “ snorter,”  not 
of  the  theological  kind,  but  through  the  self-inflicted 
pangs  of  a fiend.  After  he  is  broken  down  he  be- 
comes a doctor,  so  that  doctors  are,  according  to 
this  religion,  broken  down  fiends  that  can  be  con- 
sulted about  all  manner  of  diseases,  and  especially 
about  the  offerings  to  be  made  to  placate  them.  These 
demons  thirst  for  the  lives  of  their  votaries,  especially 
for  those  of  their  children,  and  they  must  be  bought 
off  by  great  attention,  dances,  music  and  sacrifices. 
These  dances  are  performed  in  times  when  pestilence 
is  feared  and  last  the  whole  night  through,  and  by 
morning  they  are  in  the  embrace  of  cholera,  so  that 
the  very  religion  of  these  votaries  has  the  spores 
of  pestilence  in  it,  and  is  more  to  be  feared  than  the 
pestilences  themselves. 


CHAPTER  II. 


CEYLON— ITS  BEAUTIES,  UTILITIES  AND  VARIETIES 

The  mountains  arf*,  not  to  be  compared  to  the 
Alps  in  height  or  extent,  but  are  more  beautiful 
and  imposing.  They  are  snowless,  more  abrupt,  with 
greater  evidences  of  the  ravages  of  the  forces  which 
formed  them,  and  are  decorated  with  all  the  ingenuity 
and  wealth  of  nature.  Our  own  sense  of  beauty  may 
cause  weariness  to  the  reader,  but  it  would  be  a slight 
to  nature  not  speak  of  a few  of  her  embellishments  on 
these  peerless  heights. 

Vegetation  comes  down  to  the  water  margins.  Dense 
groves  of  mangroves  cling  to  the  shore,  under  whose 
roots  wash  the  ripples'of  the  sea.  Back  of  them  are 
groups  of  pandanus,  with  stems  like  dwarfed  palms, 
around  which  the  serrated  leaves  ascend  in  spiral 
convolutions  until  they  terminate  in  a pendulous 
crown.  From  it  drop  the  amber  clusters  of  fruit  re- 
sembling the  pineapple.  Inland,  on  the  plains,  are 
thorny  jungles.  Conspicuous  among  its  valuable 
woods  are  the  mustard  tree  of  Scripture,  continuing 
all  the  way  from  Palestine,  the  margosa,  satin  wood, 
Ceylon  oak,  tamarind  and  ebony.  On  the  south- 
western coast  are  still  taller  growths  with  darker 
tinged  foliage.  Here  is  cinnamon ; its  seeds  have  been 
carried  by  birds  from  the  gardens  near  the  coasts; 
it  looks  like  young  sassafras  on  the  Alleghenies. 
There  are  pepper-worts  festooning  the  forests,  of 
which  the  Dutch  during  their  occupation  had  a 
monopoly. 


10 


11 


Creepers  flourish  here  in  the  greatest  variety,  beauty 
and  abundance.  Their  mission  is  to  cover  ugliness 
and  hide  decay  and  death.  They  take  possession  of 
the  tallest  trees  and  conceal  their  bark,  and  thus 
present  efiects  of  confusing  beauty.  The  pitcher 
plant,  not  unlike  our  trumpet  creeper,  is  here  seen 
in  its  glory,  and  with  a curious  mechanism  which 
distills  a quantity  of  limpid  fluid  into  vegetable  vases 
placed  at  the  extremity  of  its  leaves.  Here,  too,  is 
the  home  of  the  orchids,  which  suspend  their  pendu- 
lous flowers  from  the  angles  of  branches ; their  roots 
are  covered  by  fungi  of  the  most  varied  and  gorgeous 
colors  of  bright  red,  yellow  and  purple. 

On  the  east  side  of  the  island,  in  the  highlands,  a 
change  is  visible  in  the  greater  size  of  the  leaves.  Here 
the  more  than  blood-red  shoots  of  the  ironwood  tree 
give  a pleasing  variety  to  a foliage  of  nearly  uniform 
color.  The  wild  plantain,  with  its  broad  leaves,  rises 
from  the  clefts  of  the  rocks  where  the  soil  has  col- 
lected. The  bamboo  is  at  home,  tossing  shadows  from 
its  feathery  head.  The  tea  plant  takes  to  the  hills, 
and  only  needs  skilled  care  to  develop  into  a great 
industry.  The  timber,  at  a height  of  sixty-five  hun- 
dred feet,  while  of  magnificent  proportions,  is  suc- 
culent and  perishable;  yet  no  dead  trees  encumber 
the  ground  as  in  colder  climates.  They  are  eaten  by 
white  ants  and  by  beetles,  which  are  nearly  as  de- 
structive. Some  of  the  trees  in  the  highest  ranges  are 
remarkable  for  their  instincts  to  protect  themselves  in 
storms.  To  attain  their  aspirations  they  must  push 
through  the  dense  foliage  at  their  feet  which  has 
kept  them  from  lengthening  their  roots  and  gaining  the 
strength  of  body  to  withstand  the  leverage  of  their 
trunks.  They  throw  out  guys,  or  rather  buttresses  to 


12 


widen  their  base,  or  perhaps  radiated  bases  would  bet- 
ter express  the  process.  These  radiating  buttresses  are 
from  six  to  twelve  inches  thick  and  start  from  fifteen 
to  twenty  feet  up  the  trunk. 

In  the  higher  mountains  the  forests  are  flower 
gardens.  The  rhododendrons  are  covered  with  flowers, 
as  if  liquid  vermilion  had  been  sprinkled  as  dew- 
drops  upon  them.  The  asoca  has  been  the  inspira- 
tion, of  the  poets  of  the  East.  Its  orange  and  crim- 
son flowers  grow  in  graceful  abundance.  The 
banyans  are  aggressive  and  destructive,  no  one  of 
which  ever  comes  to  perfection  without  the  destruc- 
tion of  some  other  tree  on  which  it  must  fix  itself 
for  support.  It  is  the  tree  that  grows  at  both  ends ; 
string-like  rootlets,  dropping  down  from  the  branches, 
grow  into  the  ground ; in  this  way  a single  tree  will 
cover  acres. 

The  India  rubber  tree  is  a foreigner  very  much  at 
home.  It  has  a pink,  leathery  covering  which  en- 
velopes the  leaves  before  expansion.  The  nerves 
appear  in  delicate  tracery,  which  run  in  parallel 
rows  at  right  angles  from  the  mid  rib.  Its  roots 
look  like  a pile  of  snakes  intercoiled  and  festooned, 
and  on  this  account  is  called  by  the  natives  the  snake 
tree.  These  are  seen  near  Columbo. 

The  Kumbuk  revels  in  its  strength  on  the  margins 
of  rivers  or  canals,  and  overshadows  the  banks  of  the 
Mahawelli-ganga,  which  starts  near  Kandia  and  reaches 
to  the  sea.  One  of  this  kind,  a monster,  an  ancient  of 
years,  rears  its  proud  head,  three  miles  out  of  Co-  ^ 
lumbo,  so  far  above  its  fellows  that  it  is  recognized 
not  only  as  a monarch,  but  as  a landmark  for  the  native 
boatmen,  discernable  for  twenty  miles.  The  circum- 
ference of  its  trunk  is  over  fifty  feet  at  the  ground  and 


13 


twelve  feet  above  the  ground  measures  twelve  feet- 
It  is  the  kind  of  timber  used  in  making  gods,  is 
adapted  to  carving,  and  is  very  durable.  Its  bark  U 
highly  prized  as  a medicine  and  also  for  dyeing  pur 
poses. 

Nature  is  ingenious  to  a marvellous  degree  in  its 
adaptations  in  this  island.  There  is  a tree  that  grows 
over  one  hundred  feet  without  a branch,  and  has 
thorn-like  spikes  protecting  its  fruit,  which  is  as 
large  as  a cocoanut.  Another  tree  is  noted  on  ac- 
count of  its  intolerable  odor,  which  is  so  bad  that  a 
hyena  would  have  to  hold  his  nose.  It  is  one  of 
the  lords  of  the  forest,  but  has  catarrh.  From  the 
end  of  its  branches  hang  large  bunches  of  dark 
purple  flowers  of  extreme  richness.  The  air  is 
heavy  with  the  odor  of  spices  and  with  the  oozing 
balsams  and  the  humbler  beauties  that  lie  close  to 
the  earth,  all  fulfilling  their  allotted  mission  in  -the 
atmosphere  of  this  paradise  of  delights. 

We  dare  not  trespass  longer  on  the  tired  senses  of 
our  readers,  and  will  now  turn  to  the  animal  life  for 
rest  in  the  marked  contrasts  which  are  to  follow.  Our 
so-called  ancestors,  the  monkeys,  are  here,  as  lively  as 
when  in  the  original  paradise.  They  must  have  kept 
Adam  busy  to  prevent  them  from  pulling  the  feathers 
from  the  paradisiacal  parrots,  or  robbing  the  peacocks 
of  their  glories,  or  twisting  the  dogs’  ears,  or  chasing 
the  goats  among  the  trees  of  the  garden.  At  Jaffna 
they  treat  the  inhabitants  as  if  in  the  onward  march 
of  time  man  had  deteriorated,  and  his  kindred, 
which  have  held  on  to  their  prehensile  glory,  look 
down  on  him.  These  aborigines  have  no  respect  for 
the  moderns,  and  will  hardly  get  out  of  their  way. 
A flock  of  them  will  take  possession  of  their  food  and 


14 


not  relinquish  it  until  it  is  under  a hairy,  moveable 
covering.  They  hide  so  efiectively  in  a palm  tree, 
huddled  together,  as  to  elude  observation ; but  they  are 
withal  a little  weak,  for  if  a dog  passes  under  the  tree 
their  curiosity  is  so  great  that  they  crawl  out  and  ex- 
pose themselves  to  the  wrath  treasured  against  them.. 
Sometimes  they  take  possession  of  a roof  or,  if  they 
choose,  go  through  the  house.  In  one  instance  they 
found  a little  child  of  a missionary  asleep,  which  they 
tortured  and  bit  until  it  died. 

There  are  four  monkey  species  in  Ceylon.  The  best 
known  to  Europeans  is  the  Wanderoo,  of  the  lower 
country.  He  is  better  behaved  than  the  others,  and 
is  the  gravest  of  creatures  in  his  manner;  his  fun 
is  all  in  his  gravity.  He  looks  even  as ' if  he  had 
been  disappointed  in  love  and  wanted  to  write 
poetry  about  it.  His  beard  is  snowy  white,  and 
he  has  the  look  of  a chronic  widower.  He  is  the 
cleanliest  monkey  born  of  earth,  and  can  be  seen  in 
those  of  his  descendants  who  are  always  at  work  on 
their  personal  appearance,  whose  happiness  is  greatest 
in  seeing  themselves  in  the  glass.  This  hairy  little 
fop  is  on  all  occasions  trimming  his  fur,  and  cleaning 
his  hair  of  every  particle  of  dust.  His  home  is  in  the 
deep  forest ; he  lives  on  berries,  and  does  mot  often 
come  to  the  ground. 

Monkeys  move  from  limb  to  limb  and  tree  to  tree, 
making  prodigious  leaps,  and  land  on  a strong,  long 
limb,  which  by  its  springing  saves  them  from  jarring 
themselves,  then  the  limb  immediately  returning  throws 
them  upon  the  next  tree;  in  this  way,  with  their 
young  ones  holding  by'tufts  of  hair  at  the  back  of  the 
neck,  they  soon  are  beyond  danger,  when  they  enjoy 
their  triumph  in  general  conversation  and  subdued 
laughter. 


15 


There  are  bears  on  the  island ; but  only  one  kmd 
is  dreaded  by  the  natives.  They  are  lovers  of  honey 
and  find  it  in  trees  and  rocks ; they  feed  also  on  ants. 
Near  Jafiha  a bear  was  heard  growling  from  the  top 
of  a tree  at  early  dawn.  He  was  trying  to  eat  an 
ants’  nest  with  one  paw,  while  he  was  scratching  the 
stinging  creatures  away  from  his  eyes  and  lips,  and 
was  a literal  example  of  the  slang  phrase  in  the  far 
West,  “He  had  bit  ofi*  more  than  he  could  chew.” 
He  is  more  dreaded  by  the  Singhalese  than  any  other 
animal ; while  he  is  not  inclined  to  bring  on  an  en- 
gagement, yet  if  crowded,  he  is  ready  to  take  a paw 
in  it.  He  always  strikes  for  the  face  and  eyes,  know- 
ing that  it  is  all  over  with  his  victim  when  he  has  lost 
his  sight.  Honey  cannot  be  hidden  away  in  a house 
where  bears  will  not  be  drawn  by  it ; and  if  hungry 
they  will  attack  the  house  and  family.  The  govern- 
ment postmen,  who  always  travel  at  night  along  the 
coast  of  Pallam  to  Aripo,  carry  torches  to  give  bears 
due  notice  to  go  out  of  the  way,  if  they  feel  inclined 
to  be  thus  obliging. 

Leopards  are  likewise  to  be  dreaded ; though  they 
seldom  attack,  they  are  found  about  pasture  lands  in 
search  of  deer,  and  if  these  are  not  to  be  had  they  will 
attack  cattle  and  other  defenceless  animals.  They  are 
caught  in  snares,  which  is  the  safest  mode  of  disposing 
of  them.  Like  the  tiger,  if  they  have  ever  tasted  human 
blood,  they  are  always  dangerous.  Another  strange  fact 
is  that  they  are  attracted  by  the  odor  of  smallpox. 
The  natives  will  not  be  vaccinated,  and  this  makes  the 
disease  a terrible  scourge ; and  to  segregate  the  families 
hospital  huts  are  built  for  the  sick  in  the  jungles,  but 
the  leopards  are  attracted,  and  often  patients  are  in 
more  danger  from  these  foes  than  from  the  disease. 


IG 


The  mongoose  is  the  pluckiest  creature  for  his  size 
extant.  He  is  nimble  in  his  movements,  but  out  of  ac- 
tion is  sleepy,  heavy-eyed,  gentle  to  his  master,  if  he  has 
one,  usually  crawling  through  the  opening  in  his  shirt 
under  his  arm.  He  is  the  great  historic  snake  killer. 
There  is  a story  that  he  finds  some  plant  as  an  anti- 
dote to  poison,  but  it  has  never  been  verified ; he  may 
use  something  to  cleanse  his  mouth,  for  he  behaves  in 
the  fight  as  if  he  did  not  like  the  taste  of  his  victim. 
The  probabilities  are  that  his  success  is  won  by  his 
brains  and  quick  movement. 

We  do  not  believe  that  the  ichneumon  is  provided 
with  a prophylactic.  It  is  in  his  genius  that  his 
success  must  be  found ; he  is  the  most  audacious  and 
adroit  creature  that  dares  a conflict.  We  saw  a fight 
between  one  and  a large  cobra  in  India.  It  was  a bat- 
tle in  which  the  wisdom  of  the  serpent  was  over- 
matched. The  serpent  at  the  sight  of  his  foe  under- 
stood that  it  was  a life  and  death  conflict.  He  raised 
himself  nearly  half  his  length,  put  out  his  hoods  back 
of  his  eyes  fiery  red.  The  mongoose  was  calm,  but 
with  eyes  set  he  let  his  antagonist  strike,  and  dodged 
as  quick  as  thought,  sprung  back  and  planted  his 
teeth  back  of  the  head  of  the  cobra,  and  as  quickly 
left  to  frisk  about  the  feet  of  his  master,  looking  for 
approbation,  but  was  ready  again  when  the  cobra  was 
in  position.  The  explanation  may  be  found  in  the  fact 
that  the  poison  of  serpents  may  not  afiect  his  organiza- 
tion. 

The  cobra  is  a terror  in  Ceylon ; as  in  India  he  is  of 
a friendly  nature,  and  gets  into  houses  for  warmth,  and 
no  one  is  surprised  to  find  him  anywhere.  Dr.  Lins- 
ley,  pastor  of  the  Presbyterian  church  in  Columbo, 
gave  a ludicrous  incident : Suddenly  opening  the  door 


17 


into  iiis  bath-room  he  started  back  at  the  sight  of 
what  he  supposed  to  be  the  head  of  a cobra  on  the 
floor.  He  sent  his  servant  in  to  kill  it,  but  the  natives 
are  always  cowardly  and  indifferent,  and  would  rather 
let  them  alone  until  they  take  it  into  their  heads  to  go 
out.  To  be  sure  of  his  dispatching  him  he  fastened  him 
in.  After  he  had  been  in  long  enough  to  end  the  conflict 
he  opened  the  door.  The  servant  was  sitting  down 
greatly  amused,  holding  in  his  hand  his  master’s  cra- 
vat, which  was  the  kind  known  as  a “ fly”  fastened  on 
the  button  of  the  collars,  the  peculiar  shape  of  which 
resembled  the  hood  of  the  cobra. 

Rats  in  Ceylon  live  in  forests,  and  this  kind  are 
known  as  tree  rats;  they  make  their  nests  on  the 
branches  and  from  these  swinging  households  make  pre- 
datory visits  to  the  houses  of  the  natives,  making  them- 
selves at  home  in  their  lofts,  chasing  each  other  back- 
ward and  forward  and  having  a nightly  circus.  But 
there  is  no  unalloyed  pleasure  even  to  rats  any  more, 
since  Adam  fooled  away  his  estate  in  Ceylon,  for  there 
are  rat  snakes  laying  in  wait  for  them,  determined  to 
spoil  their  fun.  And  stranger  still,  the  natives  like  the 
snakes  the  best,  and  make  them  welcome.  A gentle- 
man came  upon  a rat  snake  with  its  mouth  too  full 
for  utterance,  and  dropped  over  it  a glass  shade  and 
waited  for  future  operations.  The  serpent  was  confused 
by  the  sudden  change  affairs  had  taken,  and  let  the 
rat  out  of  its  jaws^  which  cowered  at  the  other  side  of 
the  glass  cover  in  pitiable  terror ; the  two  were  left 
alone  to  their  fears.  The  glass  was  removed  and  the 
rat  made  for  a fence,  but  quick  as  lightning  the  snake 
glided  like  a flying  shadow  after  him  and  caught  him 
again,  and  made  for  a place  where  he  could  quietly 
dispose  of  him. 


CHAPTER  III. 


ANIMAL  LIFE  IN  CEYLON. 

CEYLON  is  the  home  of  elephants ; their  paradise 
and  where  they  show  the  greatest  perfection. 
They  are  to  a great  extent  tuskless,  which  is  an 
unaccountable  departure  from  the  Indian  and  Afri- 
can species,  and  this  fact  has  largely  kept  the  race  in 
Ceylon  from  destruction  for  their  ivory.  There  are 
tusked  elephants  in  Ceylon,  but  they  are  exceptional; 
hardly  one  in  a hundred  is  found  with  these  valuable 
appendages,  so  common  to  both  male  and  female  in 
India. 

Some  of  the  Ceylonese  elephants  which  have  tusks 
put  them  to  the  severest  uses.  It  is  clearly  a mis- 
take to  think  that  tusks  are  given  for  defence,  though 
they  are  sometimes  clumsily  used  for  this  purpose. 
The  difficulty  of  raising  the  head  above  the  level 
of  the  shoulders  contradicts  the  idea  that  their 
tusks  are  intended  for  conflict,  as  they  are  on  the 
stag,  deer  or  buffalo.  Elephants  love  solitude,  and 
are  by  nature  shy  of  men,  and  their  constant 
slaughter  by  men  have  made  them  more  so,  as  they 
possess  memory  in  a high  degree.  But  once  driven 
into  defence  they  are  fearful  foes  ; as  is  evident  from 
the  number  of  people  killed  in  Ceylon  by  them. 
This  is,  however,  small  compared  with  the  popula- 
tion and  the  continuous  attacks  made  on  them.  The 
elephant  has  his  restraints  in  his  hatred  to  dogs ; is 
frightened  at  rabbits ; and  his  aversion  to  hogs  is  his- 
toric. He  is  no  rival  to  other  animals,  and  can  be 
seen  browsing  in  their  midst  without  encroaching  on 
their  rights. 


18 


19 


In  his  wild  state  he  hates  man,  and  the  two  animals 
he  sees  with  man — the  dog  and  the  horse — and  these 
he  hates  on  man’s  account.  He  has  been  known  to 
kill  the  rider  of  the  horse  without  iojuring  the  horse. 

This  patience  of  good  nature  elephants  do  not 
manifest  toward  each  other;  contentions  arise  and 
deadly  onsets  are  made,  when  the  head  and  trunk 
are  used.  When  down,  the  assailant  can  and  does 
pierce  and  gore  with  his  tusks,  which  cannot  in  any 
other  position  be  used  effectively.  The  trunk  is  the 
more  powerful  weapon  of  the  two,  as  it  is  known 
that  one  tusk  in  particular,  weighing  thirty  pounds 
and  measuring  two  feet  in  length,  was  pulled  out  by 
the  trunk  of  the  foe  in  a battle. 

The  chief  weapon  is  the  ponderous  foot  with  all  the 
strength  of  the  beast  concentrated  in  it ; he  prostrates 
by  his  head  and  trunk  and  crushes  by  the  weight  of  his 
foot.  The  tusks  are  probably  the  result  of  the  demands 
of  particular  localities  for  the  preparing  of  their  food. 
The  jagged  palms  and  young  palmyras  are  opened 
with  the  tusks,  and  the  farinaceous  core  loses  noth- 
ing of  its  moisture,  while  the  tuskless  elephants  of 
Ceylon  have  to  crush  them  with  their  feet,  fouling  the 
feet  and  losing  the  delicious  food.  The  tusks  often 
hinder  them  in  feeding,  and  have  to  be  sawn  off  from 
the  government  elephants,  because  they  impede  the  free 
action  of  the  trunk  in  conveying  food  to  the  mouth. 

In  captivity  the  elephant  learns  a new  use  for  his 
tusks,  in  carrying  heavy  timbers  balanced  upon  them, 
sometimes  thirty  to  forty  feet  long.  Major  Davy 
records  the  following: — “Riding  in  the  vicinity  of 
Kandy  his  horse  startled  in  the  narrow  road  through 
the  jungle  at  the  repeated  noises  sounding  like 
^urm'pK  in  a hoarse  and  dissatisfied  tone*  It  was 


20 


occasioned  by  an  elephant  carrying  a long  and  heavy 
timber,  who  evidently  appreciated  the  dilemma.  He 
had  no  attendant  and  was  trying  by  himself  to  do 
the  right  and  polite  thing  to  get  into  p ^sition  to  let 
the  gentleman  pass  by.  He  had  swung  his  timber 
lengthwise  with  the  road,  and  had  backed  himself 
into  the  jungle,  but  the  horse  was  afraid  and  the  ele- 
phant was  telling  him  in  his  way  that  there  was  no 
danger  and  to  go  on,  for  lie  was  in  a hurry.  As  the 
horse  hesitated,  he  backed  himself  still  further  into 
the  jungle  and  umiphed  more,  and  at  last  quite  im- 
patiently. The  horse  went  by,  and  he  gave  his  urmph 
of  satisfaction,  took  up  his  burden  and  worked  it 
end  at  a time  by  the  trees  in  his  onward  progress.” 
There  are  high-bred  and  high-toned  elephants. 
The  law  of  caste  seems  to  be  almost  universal.  The 
natives  know  the  qualities  and  points  of  distinction^ 
and  value  them  for  all  service  accordingly,  A high- 
bred elephant  is  more  intelligent,  and  usually  better 
behaved.  Some  of  the  marks  are  the  softness  and 
beauty  of  the  skin,  the  red  human  color  of  the  mouth 
and  tongue,  the  expanded  forehead  which  is  hollow  on  a 
line  with  the  eyes.  The  high  caste  elephant  has 
twenty  nails,  and  those  of  lower  caste  have  less.  The 
trunk  is  broad  at  the  root,  and  blotched  with  pink  at 
the  front ; the  eyes  are  bright  and  kindly ; chest  square 
and  forelegs  short;  hind-quarters  plump,  and  five 
nails  on  each  foot  polished  and  round.  There  ia 
wonderful  wisdom  «in  their  habits  in  the  wild  state. 
They  are  not  necessarily  tropical  creatures.  In  Ceylon 
they  live  seventy-five  hundred  feet  above  the  sea; 
and  will  graze  or  browse  in  the  crisp  frost.  No  clim- 
ate seems  to  be  too  cold  for  them  when  they  have 
plenty  of  water. 


21 


They  do  not  like  sunshine,  and  get  away  from  it  as 
quickly  as  possible.  They  spends  their  days  in 
the  shadows  of  the  jungle,  and  nights  in  excur- 
sions tor  food  or  mischief.  Their  sight  is  short, 
and  defective  in  preceptive  power ; they  cannot  see 
above  their  eyes,  and  this  makes  them  timid;  but 
ears  and  scent  are  wonderful  in  range  and  accuracy, 
and  by  these,  when  the  herd  is  scattered  in  the  forest, 
they  are  able  to  get  together  again.  They  have  also 
a language  all  their  own  ; tones  and  modulations  by 
which  they  can  understand  each  other.  These  sounds 
can  be  classified  into  three  kinds.  In  some  coun- 
tries blowing  through  the  trunk  means  pleasure; 
the  second  sound,  produced  by  the  mouth,  indicates 
want,  and  the  third,  proceeding  from  the  throat, 
is  a roar  of  anger  and  revenge,  and  denotes  that 
somebody  is  about  to  be  hurt.  In  Ceylon  the  shrill 
noise  made  by  blowing  through  the  trunk  is  the  cry 
of  rage  as  they  rush  on  an  assailant,  which  is  known 
as  trumpeting.  "When  in  pain,  or  under  compulsion, 
their  condition  is  known  by  a grunt  or  groan  from 
the  throat,  with  the  proboscis  turned  up  and  the  lips 
widely  parted.  Alarm  is  spread  by  the  sentinel  by  a 
motion  of  the  lips  making  a twittering  sound.  When 
they  are  frightened  in  the  night,  they  make  a noise 
like  the  drumming  of  a pheasant. 

The  Ceylon  elephants  are  not  up  to  the  traditional 
and  poetic  height  recorded  in  books  of  fiction  or 
adventure.  They  are  not  often  more  than  nine  feet 
high.  One  was  found  near  Jaflfoa  measuring  twelve 
feet  one  inch  high.  Another  of  the  strange  things 
about  these  creatures  is  the  noiselessness  of  their  motion ; 
they  go  as  if  their  feet  were  shod  with  wool,  and  pass 
through  the  thickest  undergrowth  without  shaking 


oo 


the  top  of  a bush.  There  has  been  through  the  ages 
a myth  that  they  have  no  joints  in  their  legs,  and  can- 
not lie  down,  but  sleep  leaning  against  trees  and 
rocks.  This  is  a mistake ; the  peculiarity  of 
-elephants  in  lying  down  is  that  they  extend  the  hind 
legs  backwards,  manlike,  instead  of  bringing  them 
under  as  the  horse  does.  We  see  in  this  the  provision 
of  wisdom  considering  their  weight.  If  they  had  the 
trouble  the  horse  has  in  raising  himself  from  the 
ground  it  would  be  impossible  to  lift  five  tons  in  this 
manner  without  breaking  down  their  limbs.  Hence, 
their  motion  is  a shuffle,  suited  to  their  ponderosity, 
which  can  be  increased  to  equal  the  movements  of  a man, 
but  cannot  hold  out  so  long.  Their  limbs  are  pecu- 
liarly adapted  to  mountain  climbing.  There  is  not  a 
range  in  Ceylon  which  they  do  not  climb.  They  are 
great  engineers,  laying  out  roads  which  possess  all  the 
advantages  of  position,  and  availing  themselves  of  all 
that  nature  afibrds  in  gradients  and  passes.  So  well  is 
the  work  done  that  the  government  surveyors  were 
greatly  assisted  in  locating  their  roads  in  the  Kandian 
ranges  by  following  the  elephantine  highways,  usually 
over  the  backbone  of  a chain  of  hills.  These  animals 
also  reach  the  streams  at  the  best  grades  and  the  best 
fording  places. 

A herd  of  elephants  is  a family ; they  are  all  akin 
by  blood,  and  have  family  likenesses.  The  eyes 
of  thirty-five  in  one  corral  were  of  the  same  color. 
Different  families  may  browse  together,  but  in  danger 
will  separate  and  defend  themselves.  There  are 
but  few  males,  whether  this  is  the  result  of  birth,  or 
because  they  are  the  mark  of  huntsmen,  is  not  cer- 
tainly known.  There  is  not  entire  segregation,  how 
■ever ; in  the  meeting  of  difierent  herds  some  females 


go  beyond  family  propriety,  and  the  result  is  an  occa- 
sional illegitimate ; but  this  improves  the  stock,  and 
keeps  the  family  from  the  physical  deterioration. 

Roving  elephants  or  outcasts  are  a subject  of  discus- 
sion and  there  is  much  doubt  as  to  the  causes  of  their 
roving  habits.  The  general  impression  is  that  they  are 
turned  out  of  the  herd  for  misconduct,  and  never  per- 
mitted to  return  to  it  under  any  circumstances.  There 
is  no  forgiveness  in  the  elephant  code.  No  other  herd 
will  accept  them ; they  may  frequent  the  same  place 
to  drink  and  bathe,  but  no  recognition  is  permitted ; 
this  isolation  is  continued  if  they  happen  to  be 
driven  with  any  herd  into  a corral  where  they  are  all 
frightened  out  of  their  senses ; they  never  lose  their 
caste  distinctions.  The  outcast  is  repulsed  in  every  at- 
tempt to  find  shelter  among  them.  This  exclusion 
makes  him  desperate,  hating  man  and  beast ; so  desper- 
ate does  he  become,  that  he  is  the  terror  of  any  part 
of  the  country  where  he  appears. 

Others  think  this  roving  characteristic  is  due  to  dis- 
appointment in  love,  or  to  being  driven  out  of  the 
herds  by  rivals.  Others  that  some  of  the  rogues 
may  have  been  tame  elephants  escaped  from  bondage, 
and  so  changed  in  habits,  appearance  and  lan- 
guage that  they  can  find  no  herds  that  will  accept 
them,  their  own  herds  not  recognizing  them,  or.  having 
gone  beyond  their  reach.  There  is  another  strange 
freak  in  the  line  of  recognition,  published  in  the  Philo- 
sophical Transactions  for  1793,  to  wit,  that  “if  a wild 
elephant  be  separated  from  its  young  for  only  two 
days,  though  giving  suck,  she  will  never  recognize  or 
acknowledge  it  again,  though  the  young  recognize 
its  mother  and  cry  pitiously  for  her,  or  make  loving 
advances  to  her.” 


24 


L3adership  is  another  interesting  phase  of  ele- 
phant life.  The  government  is  despotic;  a single 
head  is  invested  with  whatever  power  may  be  necessary 
for  the  protection  and  government  of  the  herd.  A 
tusker,  if  there  is  one  in  the  herd,  is  generally  at  the 
head.  Sometimes,  not  oftenj  the  ruler  is  a female, 
a Victoria  Regina,  if  she  is  fearless  and  possesses 
executive  ability.  This  superiority  is,  no  doubt, 
unconsciously  assumed  by  those  born  to  it  and 
fitted  for  it,  just  like  other  reasoning  bodies  who 
follow  and  obey  “bosses,”  they  do  not  know  why.  The 
herd  are  like  their  British  masters,  possessed  by  the 
instinct  of  loyalty  to  trousers  or  petticoats  alike,  only 
so  it  be  a king  or  queen.  If  the  king  be  a tusker,  he 
is  sought  by  hunters  for  his  ivory  appendages,  and  is 
therefore  the  target  for  the  hunters’  bullets.  In  such 
an  emergency  his  subjects  do  all  in  their  power  to  pro- 
tect their  royal  head.  They  place  him  in  the  centre,, 
and  crowd  around  him  until  the  sportsmen  have  to 
shoot  all  between  them  and  royalty.  Major  Rodgers 
wounded  one,  and  his  loyal  subjects  braced  him  up, 
putting  their  trunks  under  his  body,  thereby  actually 
covered  his  retreat,  until  he  was  lost  to  his  pursuers 
in  the  interior  of  a jungle. 

Observations  have  been  made  of  orders  being  given 
by  the  rulers,  which  are  as  implicitly  obeyed  as  the 
orders  of  a commander-in-chief  in  battle.  The  follow- 
ing is  reported  on  the  authority  of  Major  Skinner, 
which  shows  the  existence  of  reasoning  powers  seem- 
ingly quite  human.  It  occurred  in  a drought — the 
only  pond  of  water  was  watched  by  the  Major,  con- 
cealed in  a tree.  It  was  on  a clear  night,  when  the 
elephants  could  be  seen  several  hundred  yards.  He 
had  to  wait  two  hours  in  breathless  stillness  before 


there  was  a movement  among  any  of  the  herds  which, 
not  five  hundred  yards  away,  were  hid  in  the  jungle. 
At  first  an  unusually  large  elephant,  which  was  about 
three  hundred  yards  off,  advanced  cautiously  across 
the  open  space  to  within  about  one  hundred  yards  of 
the  water,  where  he  stood  perfectly  motionless.  The 
ponderous  sentinel  made  three  successive  stealthy  ad- 
vances of  several  yards,  halting  some  minutes  between 
each,  with  his  ears  bent  forward  to  catch  the  slightest 
sound,  and  then  cautiously  moved  up  to  the  water’s 
edge,  and,  though  half  famished,  he  would  not  drink. 
With  his  fore  feet  in  the  tank,  he  only  listened. 

Alter  this  he  cautiously  returned  to  his  original 
position ; here  in  a little  while  he  was  joined  by  five 
others ; with  these  he  went  over  the  ground  to  the 
tank  again,  listening  and  smelling  and  seeing,  and 
then  posting  the  five  comrades  in  strategic  position,  to 
give  warning  or  battle,  he  returned  to  the  herd  in  the 
jungle,  and  here  called  the  whole  herd  about  him, 
and  carried  on  a conversation,  and  then  an  agreement 
was  entered  into  as  to  their  movements.  There  were 
about  eighty  in  the  herd;  these  he  led  across  the 
opening  with  great  composure  and  precision  until 
they  reached  the  first  of  the  five  advance  guards ; thea 
he  left  the  herd,  and  made  another  reconnoissance  Iby 
himself,  set  his  ears  up  and  his  trunk  forward  until 
he  again  planted  his  feet  in  the  tank,  after  which 
he  returned,  and  by  a peculiar  sound  gave  orders  for 
a general  advance  of  the  whole  herd,  who  came  bound- 
ing in  wild  confusion  for  the  water,  drinking  and 
squirting  it  all  over  themselves  in  the  highest  glee. 
After  they  were  enjoying  themselves,  the  tusker  and 
his  sentinels  followed  cautiously  and  in  constant 
watchfulness  for  danger.  After  they  had  enjoyed 


26 


their  drink  and  bath  the  Major  broke  merely  a twig^ 
and  they  darted  wildly  for  the  jungle,  carrying  on  ' 
their  shoulders  and  back  each  of  the  calves. 

In  swimming  great  rivers,  though  his  great  body 
bears  him  up,  the  elephant  prefers  to  sink  himself 
like  an  ironclad  ram  in  getting  ready  for  action,  leav- 
ing no  part  above  the  water  except  his  trunk,  through 
which  he  breathes,  and  occasionally  lifting  his  head  to 
keep  his  direction.  When  during  drought  the  water  is 
dried  from  the  beds  of  the  rivers,  he  digs  holes  in  the 
sand  five  or  six  feet  deep,  and  lets  the  water  rise,  or 
sucks  it  up  through  the  sands ; and  to  prevent  his 
weight  from  caving  his  well  in,  he  scoops  a ditch  to  it 
so  that  he  can  reach  it  without  closing  the  well.  It 
is  believed  by  many  that  he  has  a water  apartment- 
in  his  stomach,  like  the  camel,  because  he  can  retain 
and  discharge  water  through  his  trunk  when  he  has 
had  no  water  to  drink  for  days. 

It  is  a strange  instinct  in  this  knowing  creature 
that  he  dreads  fences,  however  fragile.  Near  the  old 
Tank  Tiss-weva  the  natives  cultivate  rice  which  they 
enclose  with  sticks  not  thicker  than  a man’s  thumb, 
and  leave  passage  ways  between  the  fields  for  the 
elephants  to  pass  and  repass  on  their  way  to  water,  and 
these  are  sufficient  to  protect  their  grain.  When 
wounded,  and  maddened  with  pain,  they  will  not 
break  through  a fence  after  their  pursuer,  but  follow  it 
round  for  an  open  place  through  which  they  will  rus'h 
in  thier  retaliatory  efforts.  No  sufficient  reason  can  be 
given  for  this,  except  the  general  dread  of  man’s  machi- 
nations resulting  from  unfavorable  experiences.  They 
are  creatures  of  reasonable  caution,  as  will  be  seen  in 
this,  and  many  well-authenticated  incidents  which  we 
have  gathered  from  various  sources. 


27 


They  will,  during  the  night,  pull  up  the  wooden 
stakes  set  by  the  engineer  corps  of  the  British  Army 
for  indicating  lines  and  grades,  so  that  this  work 
has  frequently  to  be  done  over  again.  This  arises 
from  a curiosity  to  investigate  unfamiliar  objects. 
Another  fact  well  corroborated,  is  that  during  terrific 
thunder  storms  in  the  mountains  elephants  will  come 
out  of  the  forests  and  from  under  the  trees  into  the 
open  ground,  where  they  remain  until  the  lightning 
ceases,  when  they  go  back  info  the  forests  again. 
They  also  give  warnings  of  coming  rain.  It  is  a 
proverb  among  the  Tamils,  “ listen  to  the  elephants ; ^ 
rain  is  coming.”  These  creatures,  next  to  man  in 
his  natural  rational  powers,  are  slain  without  mercy, 
and  for  mere  sport.  Major  Kodgers  killed  1,400, 
There  was  a reward  offered  by  the  government, 
and  3,500  were  destroyed  in  less  than  three  years. 
There  is  no  skill  in  shooting  them,  for  the  ear, 
the  forehead  above  the  eyes,  and  just  over  the  trunk  are 
all  vulnerable  points.  They  are  slow  to  die,  and  often 
several  balls  must  be  put  in  vital  points  to  finish  their 
existence  quickly.  Corralling  furnishes  the  best  op- 
portunity to  learn  the  surprising  peculiarities  of  their 
character. 

Formerly,  when  Indian  princes  were  in  their  glory, 
there  was  quite  a trade  in  elephants  to  supply  the  de- 
mands of  royalty  and  its  armies,  and  also  for  the  sacred 
processions  of  Buddhist  temples.  Since  European  con- 
trol they  have  been  devoted  to  the  duties  of  clearing 
forests,  making  roads,  laying  great  stones,  building 
bridges,  &c.  The  corrals  are  government  institutions. 
Many  elephants  have  been  captured  by  decoys,  which 
the  male  tuskers  will  follow  almost  anywhere.  They 
have  followed  the  female  trained  deceivers  into  the 


23 


enclosures  of  king’s  palaces,  showing  that  in  this 
feature  at  least  that  they  are  human.  The  men 
who  follow  the  profession  of  capturers  are  usually 
from  Moorish  villages  in  the  north  and  north-east 
of  the  Island,  who  have  come  into  both  cunning 
and  courage  by  heredity.  So  delicate  is  the 
sense  of  smell  in  the  elephant  that  he  must  be 
hunted  against  the  wind,  or  he  could  neither  be  found 
nor  driven.  One  Moorish  hunter  alone  has  been 
known  to  capture  elephants,  and  often  not  more  than 
two  will  manage  the  largest  tuskers,  their  only  weapon 
being  a flexible  rope  made  of  elk  or  buffalo  hide 
which  they  first  manage  to  get  round  the  hind  legs. 
This  is  done  by  stepping  up  to  the  hind  legs,  throwing 
the  noose  while  he  moves  forward  or  tickling  his 
foot  until  he  lifts  it  up,  or  hiding  the  noose  on  the 
ground  covered  with  roots  and  leaves,  into  which  he 
is  driven  or  coaxed.  If  there  is  no  tree  strong  enough 
near,  one  of  the  Moors  badgers  him  and  lets  him  pur- 
sue him  until  one  can  be  reached.  Another  strange 
freak  is  that  the  elephant  cannot  abide  the  sound  of 
the  word  “dah;”  this,  with  the  gesticulations  of  his 
tormentor,  will  bring  on  a contest  almost  immediately. 
After  the  hind  feet  are  secured,  the  forefeet  are  next 
captured.  Then  a brush  house  is  built  to  keep  off 
the  sun.  The  captors  build  a wigwani  and  proceed 
leisurely  to  the  end.  The  taming  fires  are  built  in  front 
of  the  prisoner,  which  he  fears,  and  his  eyes  are 
smoked,  which  makes  him  weep  over  his  pitiable  con- 
dition ; he  is  liberally  supplied  with  water  and  plan- 
tains, which  mollify  his  rage.  Man’s  supremacy  over 
all  beasts  is  evinced  in  the  conquest  of  a single 
monster ; but  when  it  reaches  out  to  herds  it  shows  the 
image  at  least  of  a divine  sovereignty.  Herd  cap- 


29 


turing  was  introduced  during  the  Dutch  occupation, 
when  two  elephant  hunts  a year  were  appointed. 
They  supplied  their  own  needs,  and  exported  about 
two  hundred  a year. 

There  are  corrals  in  Ceylon  in  operation,  built  by 
planting  logs  eight  or  ten  feet  high  in  the  ground  and 
bracing  them  with  cross  timbers,  and  from  these 
extending  stays  at  right  angles  back  into  the  ground. 
A corral  may  enclose  five  or  ten  acres  within  which 
there  is  a smaller  one  bringing  them  into  close 
quarters.  The  beating  of  the  forest  is  a feature 
of  great  interest  to  the  natives,  who  are  fond  of  the 
excitement  and  of  the  very  small  rewards  for  their 
services.  A large  territory  is  taken  in  order  to  be 
certain  of  several  herds.  These  are  driven  toward  the 
corral  slowly,  and  at  first  listlessly,  as  if  nothing  were 
intended,  but  the  hundreds  of  “ beaters,’’  as  they  are 
called,  using  drums,  guns,  torches  and  every  conceiva- 
ble noise  and  alarm,  close  in  gradually.  This  some- 
times requires  six  weeks  and  is  a most  wearying  ser- 
vice; men  have  to  sleep  and  eat  anywhere  the  necessity 
of  the  drive  requires,  and  a part  of  them  must  always 
be  awake ; often  all  have  to  be  on  the  watch,  yelling, 
running,  retreating,  swinging  torches.  Sometimes  the 
elephants  will  not  scare,  and  break  over  all  restraints, 
and  thus  the  toil  and  privation  of  weeks  are  lost. 

One  of  the  most  successful  of  these  corrals  is  de- 
scribed by  a British  officer  of  distinction  as  occur- 
ring on  the  Alligator  river,  in  the  District  of 
Kornegalle,  one  of  the  ancient  capitals  of  the  Island, 
and  the  residence  of  its  kings.  “The  ground  all 
about  is  strewn  with  columns,  and  capitals,  carved 
stones  and  wrecks  of  royal  outfittings.  A grander 
spot  was  never  seen  than  the  home  of  these  defunct 


30 


kiDgs.  The  palaces  were  located  under  the  shade  of 
an  enormous  gneiss  rock  nearly  seven  hundred  feet 
high,  barren  and  worn  by  time  into  the  shape  of  an 
elephant,  and  is  called  the  rock  of  the  Tusker,  but 
this  is  only  one  of  three  worn  into  animal  shapes  over- 
shadowing these  ancient  palaces,  the  other  two  called 
Tortoise  and  Eel  rocks.  They  are  stupendous  masses 
grand  and  awe-inspiring.” 

Kornegalle  is  the  home  of  the  Buddhists,  the  Jeru- 
salem to  which  they  come  to  visit  the  ancient  temple 
on  the  summit  of  the  great  rock,  nearly  seven  hun- 
dred feet  high,  which  is  reached  by  steps  cut  in  the 
stone.  There  the  chief  object  of  worship  is  a copy  of 
the  sacred  footstep,  hollowed  in  the  granite  like  that 
which  makes  sacred  the  apex  of  Adames  Peak,  pre- 
viously described.  The  great  forests  are  entered,  and 
the  dead  silence  so  attractive  to  elephants  disturbed. 
The  corral  is  five  hundred  feet  in  length  and  about  half 
this  pxtent  in  breadth.  The  beaters  are  set  to  work  in  a 
circle  of  many  miles.  The  elephants  at  first  are  timid,, 
and  will  retreat  before  men  into  deeper  solitudes;  but 
they  are  crowded  in  the  direction  of  the  corral  by  the 
closing  lines  of  their  pursuers.  When  their  fears  are 
awakened  and  their  desperation  begins,  bolder  meas- 
ures must  be  adopted.  Fires  must  be  kept  burning  at 
ten  or  twelve  feet  apart  night  and  day  all  along  the 
beat.  The  corps  of  three  thousand  beaters  are  closing 
up,  and  to  this  end  paths  must  be  cut  through  the  jun- 
gle, and  when  the  animals  are  brought  near  the  corral 
all  efforts  must  be  strengthened  and  intensified.  If 
takes  two  months  to  get  them  that  far. 

Now  the  tame  elephants  come  to  the  beaters,  who 
understand  their  business  both  through  natural  sagac- 
ity and  education.  They  usually  belong  to  the  Budd- 


31 


hist  temples ; they  are  picketed  in  the  shade,  lazily 
fanning  themselves  and  dreamily  plotting  mischief  to 
their  fellows.  These  tame  fellows  are  told  to  be  as 
sly  and  silent  as  mice,  so  that  the  rustle  even  of  a 
leaf  may  not  be  heard.  The  signal  for  the  final  drive 
is  given ; and  amid  deafening  shouts,  beating  of  drums, 
tom-toms,  and  firing  of  guns  the  elephants  are  scared 
forward  at  breakneck  speed,  and  rush  toward  the  open- 
ing into  the  corral.  As  suddenly  they  turn  about  and 
plant  themselves  for  consultation  and  delay.  Then 
everybody  must  wait  for  them ; they  cannot  be  moved. 
The  cause  of  this  is  the  running  across  their  way  to 
the  corral  of  a wild  hog,  which  the  elephant  abhors. 

Night  is  the  best  time  to  manage  the  stubborn  and 
aflPrighted  beasts ; every  thing  in  the  night  has  a more 
terrible  a^ect;  the  lights  are  more  distinct,  noises 
louder,  and  movements  more  hideous.  A tusker  again 
approaches  the  entrance  to  the  corral,  pauses,  stares 
wildly  and  rushes  in,  when  all  torches  are  brought 
up  to  the  pickets,  and  all  noises  are  increased  until 
pandimonium  itself  might  have  sneaked  away  with 
the  headache.  The  poor  creatures  dash  from  side  to 
side,  never  running  quite  against  the  fence,  of  which 
they  seem  always  to  be  afraid. 

The  next  movement  is  the  bringing  in  of  the 
tame  elephants  to  help  in  the  capture  of  the  wild  ones. 
Nine  large  and  two  little  ones  were  in  the  corral,  and 
one  of  the  large  ones  is  an  outcast,  a rogue,  and  he 
was  boycotted.  Even  in  the  midst  of  their  fears,  they 
would  not  let  him  come  into  their  society.  The  tame 
elephants  and  their  riders  enter  with  coils  of  rope, 
ready  to  make  the  wild  ones  fast.  Following  the 
tame  elephant  is  a little  wiry  attendant,  seventy-six 
years  old,  ready  to  fasten  the  feet  of  the  wild  ones 


when  the  tame  elephants  shall  get  one  on  each  side 
of  them  to  hold  them  fast.  One  of  the  tame  ones, 
in  the  hunt  which  we  are  describing,  was  a monster ; 
she  was  one  hundred  years  old,  and  had  been  in 
the  service  of  both  the  Dutch  and  English  govern- 
ments. This  one  enjoyed  deceiving  the  wild  ones, 
and  when  she  saw  them  bound  was  possessed  with  a 
half  fiendish  delight.  She  would  go  indiflferently 
toward  the  wild  herd,  eating  as  she  went.  The  wild 
ones  advanced  to  meet  her ; the  leader  of  the  herd 
passed  his  trunk  gently  over  her  head,  then  returned 
with  the  rest  of  the  wild  herd  to'  consult  as  to 
what  to  do.  The  tame  monster  followed  them,  as 
if  she  had  no  business  in  particular,  and  drew  up 
close  behind  the  tusker  of  the  wild  herd,  giving 
the  nooser  the  chance  to  go  under  her*  and  pass 
the  noose  around  the  wild  tusker’s  foot.  This  he 
resented,  and  would  have  soon  despatched  the  nooser, 
but  the  government  decoy  understood  it,  and  raising 
her  trunk  beat  him  into  the  centre  of  the  wild  herd. 

The  wild  herd  rallied  and  put  their  heads  to- 
gether, leaving  their  hinder  parts  exposed.  The 
largest  one,  a tusker,  was  singled  out  by  the  two  tame 
elephants,  who  pushed  one  on  each  side  of  him,  and 
held  him  fast  while  the  noosers,  crawling  under  the 
tame  ones,  soon  had  him  fixed.  A rope  from  his  feet 
was  tied  to  the  great  government  elephant,  which 
she  pulled  until  he  was.  drawn  from  the  herd ; then 
another  great  monster,  belonging  to  a temple,  got 
before  him,  and  forced  him  back,  while  the  wild  one 
bellowed  and  plunged.  They,  however,  knew  how  to 
manage  him  until  he  was  bound  to  two  trees.  The 
great  she  elephant  hauled  him  back,  and  the  temple 
elephant  pushed  and  beat  him  back  with  his  trunk, 


until  she  had  wound  the  rope  which  she  was  pulling 
around  a tree,  while  the  noosers  bound  his  forefeet  to 
another.  Thus  these  artful  creatures  managed  until 
they  tied  up  the  wh^de  herd. 

While  the  tame  elephants  stood  by  their  captive,  he 
was  quiet;  but  when  they  left,  he  was  wild  with  Urror 
and  rage.  Human-like,  misery  loves  company.  The 
captive  pulled  himself  down  upon  his  knees ; then  the 
other  way  on  his  haunches ; he  felt  the  ropes  with 
his  trunk  and  tried  to  untie  the  many  knots.  He 
screamed  in  anguish,  with  his  proboscis  raised  high 
in  the  air;  then  falling  on  his  side  to  the  ground 
he  laid  his  head  on  it,  first  one  cheek  and  then  the 
other ; then  he  put  his  brow  to  the  ground  and  doubled 
his  trunk  under  his  head  as  if  he  would  bury  it  in  the 
earth.  This  scene  of  unutterable  anguish  lasts  for 
hours,  with  intervening  pauses  of  stupor,  until  at  last 
the  struggles  end  and  he  remains  motionless,  the  tears 
running  down  his  face  in  torrents  incessantly. 

Sometimes  the  animals  simply  beat  the  ground  in  des- 
peration with  their  trunks,  as  a man  in  despair  beats  his 
breast  with-  his  hand.  They  will,  in  their  sor- 
row, take  up  dust  in  the  coils  of  their  trunks  and 
throw  it  all  over  their  bodies,  and  then,  inserting  their 
trunks  in  their  mouths,  draw  from  the  depart- 
ments of  their  stomachs  water,  with  which  they  turn 
the  dust  on  themselves  into  soft  mud,  repeating  the 
operation  until  all  parts  of  the  body  are  plastered. 
The  distress  of  the  wild  captives  is  not  less  wonder- 
ful than  the  wisdom,  ingenuity  and  reasoning  powers 
of  the  tame  ones.  They  display  the  most  perfect 
conception  of  each  movement,  both  as  to  means 
and  end,  and  enjoy  it  as  it  goes  on.  They  never 
lose  their  tempers,  are  no  more  cruel  than  the  end 


34 


to  be  attained  requires,  and  are  even  sometimes 
pitiful.  Their  caution  is  only  equalled  by  their 
sagacity.  There  is  no  excitement;  they  never  run 
foul  of  the  ropes,  and  make  no  mistakes. 

There  were  two  little  fellows  about  ten  months  old 
in  the  corral  .described,  little  bullet  heads  covered 
with  wool,  who  were  the  most  belligerent  of*  the 
herd;  with  their  little  trunks,  not  a foot  long,  dis- 
tended, they  were  rushing  at  every  opponent.  The 
mother  of  one  of  these  creatures  was  dragged  to 
a tree,  but  her  calf  kept  by  her  side  and  would 
not  permit  the  men  to  put  a second  noose  upon 
its  mother ; it  ran  between  her  and  them  and 
tried  to  seize  the  rope;  it  butted  them  and  struck  them 
with  its  tiny  trunk  until  they  had  to  drive  it  back  to 
the  herd.  It  retreated  slowly,  shaking  its  head  de- 
fiantly, and  screamed  as  if  it  had  been  a child,  instead 
of  an  animal,  bereft  of  its  mother.  When  driven 
back,  it  attached  itself  to  the  largest  female  in  the 
remaining  group,  which  stroked  it  tenderly  as  if  it 
were  a motherless  babe.  Here  it  kept  moaning  and 
lamenting  until  the  noosers  ceased  binding  its  mother, 
when  it  instantly  returned  to  her  side. 

The  outcast  or  rogue,  whom  the  flock  would  not 
recognize,  was  the  last  captured.  He  dashed  furiously 
about,  and  roared,  and  tore  against  his  lopes.  In 
retaliation  for  the  unfriendliness  of  the  herd  that  had 
rejected  him  from  their  society,  as  he  was  being 
dragged  by  the  ropes  past  one  of  these  lying  bound, 
he  flew  at  him,  and  tried  to  fasten  his  teeth  in  his 
head.  When  tied  up  he  was  noisy  and  violent  at  first, 
but  soon  lay  quietly  down ; a well-known  sign  that  his 
death  was  at  hand,  which  was  true ; he  died  in  a few 
hours  with  a broken  heart.  His  death  was  assured 


35 


by  myriads  of  black  flies  settling  on  him  in  his  death 
agonies. 

The  captives  were  found  in  every  degree  of  despair. 
While  in  this  condition  a Kandian  flute  was  played, 
at  the  sound  of  which  several  revived,  turned  up 
their  heads  in  the  direction  from  which  the  music  came, 
and  expanded  their  broad  ears,  showing  that  they 
were  being  soothed  in  their  bitter  bondage. 

The  tame  elephants  help  in  the  taming  processes;  if 
one  is  unreasonably  refractory,  they  beat  him  into  sub- 
jection with  their  trunks;  but  if  he  is  inclined  to  be 
docile,  they  show  him  great  kindness.  The  government 
uses  them  in  stone-laying ; the  tuskers  will  take  up  a 
great  stone  when  the  mortar  is  spread  and  put  it  in 
place,  and  if  it  varies  from  a straight  line  will  step 
back  and  sight  it,  and  put  their  heads  against  it  until 
it  is  exactly  straight — no  mason  can  do  it  better. 
They  will  pile  up  great  timbers  with  regularity  and 
precision.  Their  skill  is  wonderful,  but  their  power 
of  generalization  is  equally  as  great. 

The  following  well  authenticated  sketch  will  illustrate 
this : — “ Some  gentlemen  were  travelling  by  a river 
when  it  was  observed  that  the  ground  was  insecure  ; 
they  dismounted  from  the  houdah  and  walked,  and 
instructed  the  mahout  to  take  the  elephant  around 
by  a safer  road.  He  thought  he  knew  better,  and 
kept  on,  when  the  elephant  began  trumpeting — a 
well-known  sign  of  distress.  He  was  going  down  in  a 
quicksand  and  his  driver  was  getting  out  of  his  way, 
for  to  be  on  his  back  or  within  reach  is  certain  death, 
for  he  will  put  a man  under  his  feet  to  hold  himself  up. 
How  to  relieve  the  poor  beast  we  did  not  know,  for  he 
was  i^inking  deeper  and  deeper.  There  happened  to 
be  near  by  some  large,  heavy  planks  which  were  pitched 


oo 


to  him ; lie  reached  out  his  trunk  for  them  and  drew 
them  close  to  his  forelegs,  and  piling  them  lengthwise, 
and  then  crossing  them,  to  bind  them  so  the  pressuie 
would  be  upon  all,  he  made  a desperate  effort,  and 
raised  his  fore  parts  out  of  the  sand,  and  then  press- 
ing down  his  front  part,  he  pulled  up  his  hind  limbs, 
and  then  moved  his  planks  again  until  he  struck  solid 
ground.  He  had  yards  to  go  before  he  reached  the 
river,  but  he  moved  his  planks  before  him  until  the 
whole  distance  had  been  traversed ; he  had  no  experi- 
ence in  this  kind  of  work ; it  was  all  the  result  of 
reasoning  out  his, best  way  of  escape  out  of  danger.” 
Another  incident  was  related  about  a picnic  given 
to  some  native  Sunday-school  children  in  India.  A 
Rajah  had  loaned  his  elephants  to  carry  the  children 
to  a grove  some  miles  away.  Some  of  the  children 
were  favorites  of  the  elephants,  as  are  all  children  who 
are  kind  to  them.  While  playing  at  the  edge  of 
a jungle,  a tiger  made  his  appearance,  when  one  of  the 
elephants  gathered  up  the  children  he  had  brought, 
lifted  them  carefully  on  his  back,  and  then  planted 
himself  on  the  defensive,  ready  for  any  thing  that 
might  come.  The  tiger  had  no  further  disposition 
for  the  conflict. 

CHAPTER  IV. 

CEYLON,  PAST  AND  PRESENT. 

HIS  jewel  in  the  English  crown  was  known  in  the 


days  of  Solomon.  It  is  pretty  well  established 
that  Ceylon  was  a part  of  Ophir  and  Tarshish.  Arab 
traders  introduced  the  coffee  plant  into  the  island.  It 
was  the  locality  of  many  of  Sinbad,  the  sailor’s,  ad- 
ventures. Mohammedans,  the  world  over,  believe  it  to 


37 


be  the  second  paradise  of  Adam  and  Eve,  given  to 
comfort  them  upon  the  loss  of  their  first  real  estate. 
No  spot  on  earth  has  so  attracted  the  attention  of 
writers  in  so  many  different  countries.  It  is  rich 
in  history,  not  only  in  songs  and  legends,  but  in 
records  verified  by  coins,  inscriptions  and  monuments. 
Some  of  the  structures  in  and  about  the  ancient  capi- 
tals of  the  Singhalese  are  more  than  two  thousand 
years  old.  Some  of  the  ruins  in  the  magnitude  of 
the  fallen  stones,  prostrate  columns,  capitals  and  broken 
arches,  in  vastness  of  extent  and  in  architectural  pro- 
portions and  detail  of  finish  are  almost  equal  to  the 
finest  specimens  exhumed  in  Egypt.  About  453  B.  C., 
Uijaya,  a prince  from  Northern  India,  invaded  Ceylon, 
and  overthrew  its  government.  Other  adventurers 
ruled  until  1815,  when  the  last  of  them,  a cruel  mon- 
ster, the  King  of  Kandia,  was  slain.  The  Singha- 
lese chronicles  record  about  one  hundred  and  ninety 
kings  and  queens  of  various  nationalities  with  varying 
degrees  of  usefulness  and  disaster  to  the  country. 

Under  some  of  these  the  island  attained  a certain 
degree  of  civilization  and  material  progress  heard 
of  nowhere  else  in  the  far  east  at  that  remote  age, 
A Chinese  army  early  in  the  fifteenth  century  pene- 
trated to  the  heart  of  the  hill  country,  defeated 
the  Singhalese  forces,  captured  the  king,  took  him 
away  to  China  and  made  the  island  a tributary. 
But  its  chronic  foes  were  Malabar  princes  and 
followers  from  the  South  of  India,  who  were,  when 
not  in  power,  almost  continually  at  war  with 
the  Singhalese.  The  northern  half  of  the  island 
became  permanently  occupied  by  the  Tamils.  The 
country  was  worn  out  by  bad  rule  when  the  Por- 
tuguese appeared  in  1505.  They  were  cruel,  rapa- 


38 


€ious  and  bloodthirsty;  but  were  in  some  respects 
better  than  the  inhabitants  were  used  to  when  the 
island  had  no  less  than  seven  rulers.  It  was  nothing 
more  for  a long  time  than  a military  post  for  the 
Portuguese.  Their  creed  was  greed,  and  their 
religion  was  Popish.  They  fastened  their  priests 
on  the  people  either  by  force  or  trickery.  The  people 
became,  at  last,  at  heart  Buddhists,  and  officially 
Romanists.  There  was,  in  1544,  a terrible  persecu- 
tion of  the  converts  who  embraced  Christianity  under 
Francis  Xavier.  The  Portuguese  undertook  to 
avenge  the  wrong  in  bloody  frays,  in  which  they  were 
often  worsted,  which  terminated  in  1617  in  the  con- 
quest of  the  peninsula  on  which  Jaffna  is  situated. 

The  Dutch  drove  out  the  Portuguese  in  1658.  The 
Portuguese  were  diligent  propagandists.  They  put 
force  into  their  mission  efforts,  and  it  must  be  admitted 
if  they  were  kept  up  for  a century  they  would  revolu- 
tionize permanently  the  faith  even  of  heathen.  The 
sword  gave  Mohammedanism  its  victories,  and  this  was  a 
vast  improvement  on  what  it  conquered.  The  ruins  of 
churches  built  during  Portuguese  occupation  show 
that  they  were  busy  builders,  and  converters  of  the 
Tamils  into  the  Catholic  faith.  Many  of  these  build- 
ings have  done  good  service  all  along  the  ages,  having 
sheltered  the  worshippers  espousihg  the  faiths  of  Hol- 
land and  England,  in  which  the  service  of  Roman 
Catholics,  Reformed  Episcopalians  and  English  Wes- 
leyans  have  been  held. 

The  change  from  the  Portuguese  to  Dutch  rule  in 
1656  was  a great  advance  in  every  feature,  moral,  in- 
tellectual and  commercial.  It  was  a bitter  dose  to  the 
deposed  rulers.  It  was  harder  to  bear  than  their  present 
grievance  against  Great  Britain,  due  to  their  own 


39 


neglect  and  oppressiveness  in  Africa.  Their  ambition 
then  was  to  own  the  earth  without  improving  it.  The 
Lisbon  authorities  said  they  would  rather  lose  all 
India  than  imperil  their  hold  on  Ceylon.  The  Dutch 
administration,  on  the  other  hand,  while  it  was  grasp- 
ing, was  enlightening  and  advancing  their  material  in- 
terests. They  built  great  reservoirs  and  tanks  for 
irrigation,  improved  the  means  of  transportation, 
especially  by  canals,  according  to  Dutch  associations; 
for  to  a Dutchman  a country  without  canals  would  be 
as  great  a calamity  as  a country  without  mountains  to 
a Swiss.  The  education  of  the  people  was  duly  con- 
sidered, a commendable  advancement  being  made  in 
this  direction.  They  also  labored  for  their  Christian- 
ization, but  in  a’  Dutch  way.  They  had  a staff  of 
Dutch  chaplains  and  made  the  profession  of  the  Prot- 
estant faith  a sine  qua  non  to  any  employment  by  the 
government. 

This  policy  no  doubt  promoted  hypocrisy  in  all 
who  were  inclined  to  dissimulation.  But  it  built  up, 
strange  as  it  may  seem,  a better  class  of  people  out  of 
the  natives  in  character  and  numbers  than  have 
appeared  since.  Whatever  in  heathen  countries  breaks 
up  prevailing  habits  and  turns  men  in  the  beginning 
toward  the  right,  even  though  the  motives  may  be 
partially  selfish,  will  through  generations  lift  the 
people  up.  Their  chifdren  will  be  above  their  fathers, 
and  theirs  will  be  above  them.  Any  thing  starting 
a revolution,  even  indirectly  towards  the  right,  will  be 
a blessing  in  time  through  habit  and  heredity.  There 
are  no  better  men  than  the  remnants  of  a vigorous 
Christian  church  founded  by  the  Dutch,  modified  by 
the  policy  that  a man’s  interests  in  time  and  eternity 
run  in  the  same  channel.  Though  we  would  be  slow 


40 


to  recommend  it  as  a policy,  yet  we  are  as  slow  to 
condemn  it  as  wholly  vicious. 

Agriculture  was  promoted  by  enforced  labor  which 
covers  the  country  now  with  prosperity  and  smiles 
as  abundant  as  sun-glints.  This  improvement  is  seen 
in  the  magnificent  forests  of  cocoanut  palms.  When 
the  English  conquered  and  succeeded  the  Dutch  the 
whole  south-western  coast  presented  unbroken  groves 
of  palms.  In  1815  the  Island  became  an  appendix 
to  the  British  crown,  and  so  great  was  its  value  in  the 
eyes  of  the  English  as  the  key  to  India,  as  well  as  on 
account  of  its  supposed  fabulous  * wealth  in  precious 
stones,  pearls,  perfumes,  spices,  cofifee,  and  tea,  that 
Britain  preferred  in  the  general  peace  to  give  up  Java 
to  the  Dutch,  and  retain  Ceylon,  though  inferior  in 
area  and  population. 

The  Dutch  departed ; but  they  left  volumes  of  writ- 
ten and  unwritten  history  behind  them.  The  same 
style  of  houses  abide.  Some  of  the  towns  are  as 
Dutch  as  when  they  occupied  them.  Jaffna  is  a 
Dutch  town  to  this  day  in  architecture  and  manners. 
It  does  not  matter  where  the  inhabitants  come  from, 
they  still  fall  into  the  surviving  Dutch  ways. 

The  houses  have  only  a single  story,  but  are  large 
and  commodious,  with  wide  porches  and  high  ceilings. 
They  are  situated  in  gardens  of  tropical  beauty  and 
fruitfulness.  The  streets  of  the  town  are  broad  and 
regular,  and  are  planted  in  lines  of  sunga  trees  selected 
on  account  of  their  grateful  shade  and  yellow  flowers. 
There  is  still  an  abiding  monument  of  the  Dutch  in 
the  form  of  a little  fort  of  hexagonal  shape,  built  of 
blocks  of  white  coral,  and  surrounded  by  a moat.  It 
has  a house  for  the  commander  of  its  forces  and  an  old 
church  in  the  form  of  a Greek  cross.  This,  by  agree- 


41 


ment  in  tlie  capitulation  in  1795,  was  reserved  for. the 
Presbyterian  consistory;  but  by  a courtesy,  whose 
reciprocity  is  always  all  on  one  side,  it  is  occupied 
by  the  Church  of  England. 

The  native  town  is  the  home  of  Tamils  and  Moors. 
The  industries  consist  of  the  weaving  a thick  cotton 
cloth,  which  is  dyed  and  ornamented  by  designs  of 
calico  painters — a class  that  came  by  invitation  of  the 
Dutch  government  two  hundred  years  ago.  Here  is  the 
home  and  industry  of  goldsmiths,  who  make  bangles, 
chains  and  rings  which  are  exceedingly  tasteful  in 
design  and  finish.  The  people  are  more  than  usually 
industrious,  but  exceedingly  degraded.  Their  homes 
are  pandemoniums.  Their  habits  are  indescribably 
disgusting.  Though  there  are  many  persons  lifted  up 
by  Christianity  it  is  as  yet  leaven  on  the  edges  rather 
than  in  the  heart  of  the  masses.  And  this  brings  us 
abreast  with  the  mission  work  of  our  own  country- 
men under  the  American  Board  of  Foreign  Missions. 

The  Protestant  faith  in  Ceylon  declined  upon  the 
departure  of  the  Dutch.  The  English  government 
removed  the  religious  restraints  which  the  Dutch 
required  in  order  to  any  governmental  advantages 
in  business,  and  when  the  natives  found  that  they 
could  believe  and  do  as  they  pleased,  multitudes  of 
the  Dutch  converts  went  back  to  Buddhism,  Brahmin- 
ism  and  Papacy.  For  a time  it  looked  as  if  the  Pro- 
testant cause  would  fail  altogether.  The  Baptists,  mis- 
sionaries of  the  Established  Church  of  England,  and 
the  Wesley ans  all  tried  to  maintain  it,  but  the  attempt 
was  a failure. 

In  this  hopeless  crisis  the  American  Board  of  For- 
eign Missions,  in  1815,  sent  thither  five  missionaries — 
Rev.  Messrs.  Poor,  Meigs,  Warren,  Richards  and  Bard- 


42 


well,  noble  men,  to  whom  sacrifice  for  Christ  and  a 
dying  world  was  a happiness.  They  repaired  the  ruins 
of  Dutch  churches,  built  up  fallen  walls,  restored  the 
deserted  houses  left  by  the  Dutch,  and  (turned  them 
again  into  Christian  homes,  for  Christianity  has  a 
right  to  live  by  occupancy,  as  the  Nestorians  were 
there  until  exterminated  by  the  Portuguese.  They 
understood  that  nothing  could,  duriug  this  terrible 
reaction,  be  done  with  the  adult  heathen  population. 
The  children  were  the  only  hope  for  the  future,  and 
schools  were  at  once  opened  for  both  boys  and  girls. 
It  was  a prodigious  undertaking  to  get  the  girls  into 
school.  They  could  at  first  only  reach  the  low  castes, 
who  had  every  thing  to  gain  and  nothing  to  lose. 

A school  of  the  highest  grade  was  started  at  Batti- 
cotta.  This  was  the  work  and  care  of  Dr.  Poor.  His 
first  efforts  had  been  put  forth  at  Tillipatty,  where  the 
eminent  Secretary  lof  the  Board  of  Education,  Dr. 
Daniel  W.  Poor,  was  born.  The  great  missionary.  Dr. 
Poor,  wrought  after  the  methods  that  made  Dr.  Alex- 
ander Duff  afterwards  so  famous  at  Calcutta,  India. 
While  struggling  on  with  every  thing  in  its  formative 
state.  Judge  William  Ottley  gave  him  a large  sum 
to  aid  in  sustaining  his  school. 

Mrs.  Winslow  started  a corresponding  school  of  girls, 
which  became,  after  toil  and  much  discouragement,  a 
great  success.  Both  these  schools  furnished  teachers  and 
catechists.  Preaching  was  carried  on  by  the  mission- 
aries in  village  bungalows  and  churches  attached  to 
each  mission.  It  was  slow  work.  About  all  they 
could  do  was  to  hold  on  to  the  promises  of  God,  but 
a change  came  gradually,  as  dawn  comes  out  of  dark- 
ness. They  had  every  thing  to  endure.  Sometimes 
the  Board  had  not  the  support  to  give  them  which 


43 


they  needed.  There  was  no  system  of  exchange  by 
which  they  could  get  their  remittances  regularly. 
They  were  isolated  from  their  kind  and  were  sufferers 
by  disease. 

The  Board  reinforced  them,  and  sent  printing  presses 
in  order  to  reach  the  multitudes  by  the  printed  page ; 
but  these  presses  were  seized  by  the  British  Governor, 
Sir  Edward  Barnes,  who  gave  them  to  the  Episco- 
palians, and  sent  the  pressman  and  superintendent 
back  to  America.  But  the  dark  clouds  rolled  back 
and  light  broke  as  morning  comes  from  the  darkest 
hour  of  night — the  work  went  on,  and  the  laborers  fell 
by  its  side. 

There  is  a little  graveyard  which  holds  their  hon- 
ored dust.  Nature  has  clothed  it  in  her  own 
beauties  and  the  sun  smiles  upon  it.  The  natives 
treasure  their  precious  memories  and  speak  of  them  to 
their  children.  Dr.  Poor  lies  here.  It  is  worth  a 
pilgrimage  to  see  even  where  the  form  of  one  so  schol- 
arly, so  eloquent,  so  devout,  so  loving  to  his  .Master, 
and  so  devoted  to  those  for  whom  Jesus  shed  his  blood, 
descended  into  the  bosom  of  the  mother  whose  dust,  ^ 
tempered  with  tears,  gives  us  our  birth.  But  now  the 
fruitage  appears.  They  sowed  in  tears ; their  successors 
are  gathering  the  harvest.  “These  all  having  ob- 
tained a good  report  through  faith,  received  not  the 
promise,  God  having  provided  some  better  thing  for 
us  that  they  without  us  should  not  be  made  perfect.’* 

Turning  aside  from  the  religious  aspect  of  the  Island, 
it  will  no  doubt  interest  our  readers  to  know  some- 
thing of  the  pearl-oyster  fisheries.  These  are  on  the 
coast  between  Kalaar  and  Arrive  rivers.  The  shore  is 
raised  many  feet  by  enormous  mounds  of  shells  from 
millions  of  oysters  robbed  of  their  pearls,  being  the  ac- 


44 


cumulations  of  ages.  These  pearls  are  the  efforts  of 
wounded  nature  to  repair  its  own  injuries.  In  the 
pearl-diving  season  these  banks,  ordinarily  dreary, 
become  alive  with  human  beings  from  all  parts  of 
India.  Like  California  in  its  early  days,  towns  spring 
up  in  a day  in  which  are  food,  clothing  and  shelter  for 
the  divers  and  adventurers.  The  native  divers  are 
geneially  Tamils  and  Moors.  The  machinery  is  very 
simple.  A stone  weighing  thirty  pounds  is  attached  to 
the  diver  to  pull  him  down  to  the  bed  of  the  sea. 
He  has  a net  basket  which  he  carries  to  the  bottom 
and  fills  with  the  oysters.  In  the  ninth  century  the 
pearl  divers  in  the  Persian  gulf  filled  their  ears  with 
cotton,  steeped  in  oil,  and  compressed  their  nostrils 
with  a piece  of  tortoise  shell.  This  practice  still 
continues  in  the  Persian  gulf ; but  the  Ceylon  diver 
does  not  trouble  himself  with  even  this  much  machin- 
ery. He  fastens  his  foot  to  the  sinking  stone,  put- 
ting it  through  a loop  in  a cord  bound  to  it,  takes  a full 
breath,  presses  his  nostril  with  his  left  hand,  sinks, 
and  lying  on  his  face  works  his  best  in  grabbing 
oysters,  which  he  places  in  his  net  basket  and  then 
gives  the  signal  for  being  hauled  up.  The  longest 
time  any  one  can  stay  under  the  water  is  not  more 
than  two  minutes,  but  usually  one  is  all  he  can  stand, 
and  he  can  go  no  deeper  than  thirteen  fathoms. 

The  sharks  are  believed,  by  the  Tamils  and  Moors, 
to  be  kept  away  by  professional  charmers  who  are 
always  on  hand ; but  the  fact  is  that  they  are  scared 
away  by  the  commotions  of  the  oars  and  the  shoutings 
above  and  the  spectres  of  the  divers,  whom  they  have 
not  yet  learned  are  good  to  the  shark’s  taste. 

The  crocodiles  of  Batticaloa  will  bring  to  the  minds 
of  the  classic  reader  the  descriptions  in  the  Cyropoe- 


45 


dia.  They  are  here  prodigious;  their  teeth  are  so 
large  that  the  natives  mount  them  with  silver  lids  and 
use  them  as  we  do  tobacco  pouches.  The  crocodiles  are 
from  fifteen  to  nineteen  feet  long.  The  clashing  of 
their  jaws  is  frightful;  as  they  have  no  lips,  it  is  a crash 
of  bones — like  two  pieces  of  ivory  or  hard  wood.  It  is 
almost  impossible  to  kill  them;  a rifle-ball  may  be 
fired  through  them,  and  unless  it  reaches  the  brain  or 
heart  it  will  not  affect  them..  Like  oppossums  they 
will  feign  death,  but  woe  to  him  who  believes  it. 

Another  wonder  in  Ceylon  is  the  musical  fish.  It 
is  heard  at  night,  and  most  distinctly  when  the  moon 
is  full.  It  is  thought  that  this  music  is,  produced 
by  a shell  which  the  Tamils  call  the  crying  shell. 
An  English  investigator  says: — “We  rowed  about 
two  hundred  yards  north-east  of  the  jetty,  by  the 
gate  of  an  old  Dutch  fort,  and  on  coming  to  this  point 
I distinctly  heard  the  sounds  described.  They  came 
up  from  the  water  like  the  gentle  thrills  of  a musical 
chord,  or  the  faint  vibrations  of  a wine  glass  when  its 
rim-  is  rubbed  by  a moistened  finger.  It  is  not  one 
sustained  note,  but  a multitude  of  tiny  sounds,  each 
clear  and  distinct  in  itself,  the  sweetest  treble 
mingling  with  the  lowest  bass.  On  applying  the  ear 
to  the  woodwork  of  the  boat  the  vibrations  were 
increased  in  volume  and  distinctness.  These  sounds 
are  not  distributed  generally,  but  come  from  several 
‘ points  and  are  most  probably  produced  by  mollusca.’^ 
.Such  sounds  are  heard  under  water  at  Bombay.  In 
some  places  the  tones  are  described  as  like  the 
harp. 

The  singing  mollusca,  however,  do  not  furnish  all  the 
marvels  of  the  deep.  The  coasts  have  their  products, 
not  musical  but  invigorating  and  healthful.  There  are 


4G 


oysters  that  would  confound  a New  Jersey  coastman 
until  his  eyes  would  dilate  like  the  flame  of  a head- 
light on  a locomotive.  There  are  oysters,  the  shells 
of  which  measure  eleven  inches  in  length  by  five 
broad.  This  is  enough  to  bewilder  the  epicure  as  to 
the  philosophy  of  the  descent  into  the  gullet.  This 
changes  into  fact,  what  was  thought  in  Alexander’s 
campaign  in  India  to  be  a monstrous  lie,  that  oysters 
were  found  a foot  long. 

The  process  of  digging  for  gems  is  thus  described : 
“Ratnapura  is  the  centre  of  a district  twenty  or 
thirty  miles  square,  in  almost  all  of  which  a stratum 
of  gravel  six  to  twenty  feet  under  the  surface  exists. 
Throughout  this  area  gem  pits  are  to  be  seen  near  the 
villages,  some  being  now  worked,  others  being  aban- 
doned. 

“ The  natives  work  there  in  companies  of  six  or  eight, 
and  pay  a rupee  per  man  per  month  for  the  privilege 
of  working  a certain  allotment,  where  they  begin  by 
marking  oflf  a square  of  about  ten  feet.  After  remov- 
ing about  three  feet  of  soil  the  sounding-rod,  a piece 
of  iron  about  half  an  inch  in  diameter  and  six  feet 
long,  is  used  to  sound  for  the  gravel.  If  successful, 
the  digging  is  begun  in  earnest  until  about  four  feet 
deep.  On  the  second  day  gravel  is  taken  out  by 
baskets  handed  from  one  man  to  another  until  all 
within  the  square  is  excavated. 

“ Should  the  miners  find  the  soil  fairly  firm  at  the 
bottom  of  the  pit  they  tunnel  all  around  for  about 
two  feet,  drawing  out  the  gravel  and  sending  it  up 
also  to  be  heaped  with  the  rest,  which  usually  com- 
pletes the  work  of  the  second  day,  a watchman  re- 
maining near  it  all  night.  On  the  third  day  it  is  all 
washed  in  wicker  baskets  by  a circular  jerking  motion. 


47 


which  throws  out  all  the  surplus  light  stone  and  rub- 
bish, until  a good  quantity  of  heavy  gravel  is  left  in  the 
bottom,  which  is  carefully  examined.  There  is  hardly 
a basketful  that  does  not  contain  some  gems  of  inferior 
value,  which  are  usually  sold  by  the  pound  for  about 
nine  rupees.  Should  no  valuable  stones  be  found  an- 
other pit  is  sunk,  and  so  on  until  one  or  two,  perhaps 
three,  really  valuable  gems  are  unearthed,  when  the 
work  is  stopped,  and  the  whole  party  goes  off  to  Rat- 
napura  with  the  prizes.  If  these  are  worth,  say  a few 
thousand  rupees,  they  are  kept  secret  and  only  shown 
to  one  or  two  men  of  money,  who  make  the  owners 
an  advance  and  look  after  the  custody  of  the  precious 
stones. 

“ Then  they  gamble  and  drink  for  some  time  until  an- 
other advance  becomes  necessary,  and  so  on  until  half 
the  value  is  obtained.  Then  the  party,  with  the  mort- 
gagee, proceeds  to  Columbo,  or  Italutara,  where  rich 
Moorish  traders  are  summoned  to  purchase,  and  the 
gems  soon  find  their  way  to  London.  The  general 
public  know  nothing  about  these  transactions,  and 
valuable  gems  are  never  heard  of  in  Ceylon,  and 
scarcely  see  the  light  of  day  till  they  reach  Bond 
Street.  The  natives  have  a great  fear  of  exposing 
their  finds  until  they  are  sold,  and  they  have  most  ex- 
traordinary superstitious  ideas  about  showing  them.” 

•CHAPTER  y. 

COLUMBO, 

COLUMBO,  the  capital  of  Ceylon,  is  a place  of  in- 
comparable beauty,  with  a climate  so  exhilarat- 
ing that  the  pilgrim  forgets  to  be  weary.  It  is  a city  of 
120,000  inhabitants,  with  a magnificent  harbor  built. 


48 


in  concrete,  the  work  of  Sir  Hercules  Robinson.  It 
is  regularly  laid  out  with  broad  and  shaded  streets ; 
the  soil,  of  red  shale,  looks  very  much  like  that 
about  New  Brunswick,  N.  J.  The  drives  are  un- 
equalled in  the  world  by  reason  of  the  smoothness  of 
the  road  and  the  surrounding  natural  beauties.  They 
extend  for  miles  in  every  direction  from  the  city  along 
the  sea.  On  one  of  them  is  a beautiful  lake  embosomed 
in  abounding  foliage  and  the  Kelani  river  with  its 
bridge  of  boats.  There  is  also  a public  museum. 
The  historic  Dutch  church  contains  tombs  and 
monuments  of  Dutch  governors  and  other  notables; 
a kind  of  Westminster  Abbey,  with  more  dead  than 
living  celebrities.  The  entire  floor  is  made  of  mar- 
ble tablets  with  heraldic  designs.  On  all  highways 
are  the  bungalows  of  Europeans,  some  almost  pala- 
tial in  appearance  and  proportion,  though  very  cheap 
in  their  finish  and  structure. 

The  streets  teem  with  people  of  every  variety 
of  Oriental  races  and  costumes.  The  efieminate 
light  colored  Singhalese  wear  their  hair  tied  up 
in  knots  at  the  back  of  their  necks,  the  men 
using  combs  and  the  women  hair-pins.  Then 
appear  the  darker  and  more  manly  Tamils,  Hindus 
of  every  class  and  dress,  Moormen  or  Arabs,  Afghan 
traders,  Malay  policemen,  Parsees,  Chinese,  Kaffir 
descendants,  Eurasians,  half-bloods,  Dutch,  Portu- 
guese and  English. 

The  first  to  greet  the  stranger  is  the  native  peddler, 
who  has  his  wares  at  his  feet  wherever  he  may  stop 
even  for  a minute:  pearls,  precious  stones,  cat’s-eyes, 
rubies,  sapphires,  jewelry  in  gold  and  glitter,  native 
products  and  pinchbeck  from  France,  Italy,  and  Eng- 
land. 


49 


V 


There  is  a seaside  railway  twenty  miles  in  length  to 
Kalutara,  bordered  on  each  side  by  cocoanut  trees. 
The  cool  shade,  the  freshness  of  the  grass,  the  gor- 
geous beauty  of  the  flowering  shrubs,  ihe  d^nse 
woods  of  the  mountains,  the  purple  zone  of  the  hills, 
above  which  the  sacred  mountain  Ada'u’s  Ptak  is 
often  seen,  form  a beautiful  vision.  If  the  climate  is 
oppressive  in  the  lowlands,  it  can,  in  three  hours, 
be  exchanged  for  the  coolness  of  the  mountains 
by  a railway,  rising  by  incline  plane,  sixteen  hundred 
feet,  to  the  last  capital  of  the  k ng^  of  the  Idand 
Kandia.  This  is  a city  of  22,000  inhabitants,  situated 
in  a valley  surrounded  by  hills,  with  an  artificial  lake, 
and  Buddhist  and  Hindu  temples,  including  the 
Maligawa,  the  most  sacred  in  the  world,  in  which 
is  Buddha’s  tooth,  held  in  great  reverence  in  India, 
Thibet,  China  and  Japan. 

Columbo  is  also  noted  as  the  home  of  the  exiled 
Arabi  Pasha,  to  whom  a visit  was  made,  and  whose 
ambition  once  reached  to  the  restoration  of  the 
Mohammedan  power  over  the  Soudan,  Egypt  and 
Asia  Minor.  In  the  same  ship  with  us,  coming 
from  Calcutta  to  Ceylon,  was  a young  Greek, 
quite  agreeable  and  bright  but  greatly  afiected 
with  a marked  peculiarity  of  the  Greeks,  some- 
what prevalent  in  other  nationalities,  inordinate  vanity. 
He  proposed  the  visit  to  Arabi,  whom  he  said  he  knew 
well,  and  would  give  us  the  benefit  of  his  personal  in- 
timacy. The  familiarity  was  represented  as  being  so 
complete  that  the  conclusion  was  that  they  had  played 
marbles  together,  or  had  slid  on  the  same  cellar  door. 

We  submitted  to  such  gracious  proffers  and  a landau 
was  hired,  the  expenses  to  be  divided,  but  in  considera- 
tion of  his  valuable  services  we  concluded  to  pay 


,50 


it  all  and  to  esteem  it  a privilege.  Cards  were  pro- 
vided, and  whatever  respectability  belonged  to  the 
visitors’  places  of  residence  was  inscribed  thereon. 
He  put  on  his  card  in  Arabic,  so  he  said,  Athens,. 

' Greece;  on  ours  was  Philadelphia,  Pennsylvania, 
U.  S.  A. 

Almost  dazed  by  our  prospects,  the  carryall  was  set 
in  motion,  amidst  torrents  of  rain,  or  rather  amidst  a 
celestial  splash,  for  it  was  the  time  of  monsoons.  All 
the  way  out,  two  miles  from  the  city,  our  Greek  was  for- 
mulating his  speech  to  deliver  to  his  only  auditor, 
asking  how  it  would  do,  and  then  gesticulating  and 
repeating  it  in  an  unknown  tongue.  He  outlined 
Arabi  as  the  Washington  of  Egypt,  as  the  Kossuth 
of  Hungary,  as  the  Kosciuszko  of  Poland,  crushed  by 
* cruel  fate.  But,  said  he,  “ truth  crushed  to  earth  will 
rise  again,”  &c.  He  was  in  a high  strain,  in  sublime 
fervor,  when  our  carryall  brought  up  at  the  door. 
A man  of  more  than  medium  height,  heavy  and 
dignified,  came  to  the  carriage,  received  the  cards 
in  his  hands,  invited  the  distinguished  guests  to  seats 
in  the  reception  room,  retired  a moment,  and  then  our 
noble  Greek  grew  restless,  struck  an  attitude  and  com- 
menced something  in  a strange  language. 

He  was  waiting  to  see  the  hero,  his  friend  and  com- 
panion. Soon  the  servant,  as  he  supposed  him  to  be, 
appeared  with  pipes  and  cigars,  and  retired.  The 
moments  grew  oppressive,  ears  were  up,  and  eyes  strained 
to  see  his  majesty  from  afar.  But  soon  the  same  man, 
dressed  in  white  linen,  with  a ravelled  collar  and  one  not 
very  clean,  appeared  with  coffee.  He  sat  down  this 
time,  and  began  a conversation  with  the  American  in 
good  English.  But  the  Greek  was  nervous ; he  went 
to  the  door  twice,  looking  up  the  hall  to  catch  the  first 


51 


glance  of  the  defeated  hero  of  Tel  El  Keber,  but  the 
big  man,  with  high  forehead,  against  all  Oriental  pro- ' 
priety,  kept  on  talking  with  the  American  about  the 
army  officers  of  his  country,  and  particularly  about 
General  Stone,  for  whom  he  had  great  admiration. 
He  said  our  American  Generals,  so  far  as  he  had 
known  them  and  known  about  them,  were  very  clever. 
This  servant,  doing  the  menial  duties  of  the  house 
according  to  the  ideas  of  the  Greek,  seemed  well- 
versed  in  American  affairs. 

Finally  it  began  to  dawn  on  the  Greek  that  there 
was  something  out  of  order ; and  while  he  was  laboring 
to  give  birth  to  his  speech  said  to  the  man,  ‘‘  Do  you 
speak  in  Arabic  ?”  The  big  man  said,  “ No.”  “ Do 
you  speak  Greek  ?”  “ No,”  said  he,  “ I only  speak  a 
little  English,”  and  never  addressed  a word  further 
to  him  during  his  stay.  This  was  Arabi  himself,  and 
the  explanation  of  the  whole  affair  is  beyond  our  knowl- 
edge. He  had  in  democratic  fashion  received  an 
American  at  the  door,  and  had  performed  all  the 
honors  and  duties  of  hospitalities  himself,  while  he 
had  more  than  fifty  servants.  Nobody  in  Columbo 
could  explain  it,  unless,  as  one  suggested,  that  he 
feared  the  Greek ; or  by  intuition  recognized  this  man 
as  a fraud,  who  had  evidently  prevaricated  about 
knowing  him,  or  being  intimate  with  him. 

When  a move  was  made  to  retire  he  asked  that  the 
interview  might  be  prolonged,  and  said  he  liked  Ameri- 
cans, and  that  they  were  sincere.  He  complained 
of  being  lonesome  and  his  opportunities  of  seeing  men 
limited.  He  made  no  other  reference  to  his  bondage, 
but  it  is  galling  and  heart-breaking,  as  could  be  seen 
in  his  appearance.  He  is  a man  from  whom  the 
ambitions  of  life  are  fast  departing.  There  was  a 


52 


sadness  in  his  grave  and  subdued  tones  unmistakable 
in  its  significance.  He  is  handsome  and  manly* looking, 
having  a military  bearing  and  the  impress  of  a 
leader  of  tact  and  courage. 

When  the  time  came  for  paVmg  he  proffered  his 
hand  only  to  the  American,  thanking  him  for  his  visit, 
conducting  him  to  the  carriage  and  waring  adieus  by 
his  hand.  His  clothes  were  in  European  style,  and 
his  head,  well  sprinkled  with  gray,  was  uncovered. 
Our  Greek  was,  or  professed  to  be,  outraged.  He 
said  he  lied  when  he  said  he  did  not  speak  in  either 
Arabic  or  Greek,  for,  he  said,  I have  heard  him 
speak  both  fluently.  This  is  true  beyond  doubt.  He 
did  not  choose  to  speak  either,  and  this  was  his  mode 
of  escape,  probably,  from  the  ordeal  of  the  interviewer. 
■He  looked  quizzically  on  the  young  Greek,  as  if  there 
were  mischief  in  his  eye.  Perhaps  he  saw  the  illy- 
concealed  extremities  of  that  speech  prepared  by  him, 
and  determined  to  leave  it  still-born  where  it  had  been 
conceived.  He  may  have  thought  him  a spy  and 
determined  not  to  give  himself  away  to  the  British 
government. 

But  for  the  Greek,  my  countrymen,  what  a fall 
was  that!  It  reminded  us  of  the  dishonor  of  a proud 
peacock  that  we  once  saw  exhibiting  himself  in  a 
garden,  with  every  inch  of  his  feathered  glories 
given  to  public  observation.  There  was  a fire 
in  that  garden,  being  the  burning  of  the  last 
year’s  rubbish.  The  plumed  knight  of  the  prem- 
ises seemed  to  be  enraged  by  the  crackling  flame. 
He  walked  up  to  it  and  then  tuimed  indignantly 
away  from  it,  swinging  his  magnificent  train  into  its 
blazes,  when  all  his  glories  went  heavenward  in  smoke 
and  only  a lew  crisped  quills  remained.  Sic  transit 


gloria  mundi.  He  betook  himself  to  a board  pile,  and 
crawling  under  it  refused  to  appear  on  the  public 
theatre  until  starvation  compelled  him  to  come  forth, 
sadder  and  wiser  for  his  experience  with  unknown 
forces. 

We  parted  with  our  Greek  companion,  thanking 
him  for  the  service  he  had  rendered,  hoping  that  we 
would  meet  again.  He  gave  a sickly  smile,  amid  sup- 
pressed emotions  of  shame  and  anger,  and  begged  one 
favor,  and  that  was  that  we  would  not  tell  the  wife. 

The  religious  condition  of  Ceylon  has  been  par- 
tially outlined,  and  a brief  account  of  it  as  it  appears 
at  the  capital  will  suffice.  This  can  be  done  by  relat- 
ing the  incidents  of  a Sabbath  day’s  work.  The  Kev. 
J.  Burnet,  chaplain  in  the  service  of  the  English 
army,  extended  us  hospitalities,  being  just  such  a wel- 
come as  a Scotch  Presbyterian  can  give  to  one  whose 
ancestors  were  of  his  own  national  blood.  He  has 
the  care  of  one  of  the  two  Presbyterian  churches  in 
Columbo. 

The  writer  was  invited  to  preach  to  a battalion  of  a 
Highland  regiment  at  7 o’clock,  A.  M. ; early,  but 
the  best  hour  in  the  day  for  comfort.  The  air 
was  cool,  coming  from  the  sea  which  lay  near,  and 
breaking  its  spray  on  the  glistening  sands.  The 
troops  were  grand  looking  fellows,  nearly  all  six 
footers,  dressed  in  linen,  snowy  white,  with  white 
pith  hats,  in  shape  not  unlike  those  worn  by  fire- 
men, coming  down  over  the  neck  and  front  of  the 
forehead  to  protect  them  from  the  sun.  They  were 
in  their  native  kilts,  the  pride  of  the  Highland  soldier. 
They  w^ere  seated  in  the  church  reverently  waiting, 
only  as  the  Scotch  can  wait,  to  hear  all  the  words 
God  shall  speak  by  his  servant.  They  stood  in  prayer. 


54 


and  rose  and  sat  down  as  if  they  were  one  mass  of  life, 
directed  by  one  motion.  They  s^g  that  grand  old 
Psalm,  “All  people  that  on  earth  do  dwell,”  and 
sounded  it  out  so  that  all  heaven  and  earth  might 
hear. 

There  are  no  grander  effects  possible  than  men  can 
produce  in  harmony  and  in  earnest  song.  When  the 
Scriptures  were  read  every  man  had  his  Bible,  and 
when  the  leaf  was  turned  by  the  minister  the  turning 
by  the  soldiers  seemed  like  the  rustle  of  December 
winds  through  the  sere  leaves  of  the  forest.  They 
heard  the  preaching  as  men  who  hungered  and  thirsted 
after  righteousness.  From  scenes  like  this,  old  Scotia’s 
grandeur  springs,  making  her  loved  at  home  and 
revered  abroad. 

At  10  o’clock,  service  began  at  the  English  Wes- 
leyan Mission  church,  over  which  Dr.  Scott  presides. 
He  is  one  of  the  most  learned  and  influential  mission 
aries  on  the  island.  He  is  an  editor,  preacher,  teachei , 
translator,  executive,  and  whatever  else  the  necessi- 
ties of  his  position  require.  The  writer  preached  here 
to  the  European  and  Eurasian  congregation,  many 
of  them  being  descendants  of  the  Dutch ; and  sturdy 
disciples  they  are.  There  had  been  a service  in  Tamil 
at  nine,  and  one  followed  as  soon  as  the  second  was  over. 
The  hospitalities  of  this  home  were  extended  to  us,  in 
which  were  present  beside  Mrs.  Scott,  Miss  Prideaux,  a 
grand-daughter  of  the  great  African  Missionary  Moffat, 
whose  aunt  married  Livingston,  and  of  whom  he  said ; 

On  Supranga’s  brae,  poor  Mary  lies  and  beaks  for- 
nent  the  sun.” 

Dr.  Lindsley  is  pastor  of  the  old  historic-  Dutch 
church  already  referred  to.  This  church,  and  its 
work  throughout  the  island,  is  now  under  the  care 


oo 


of  the  Assembly  of  the  Irish  Presbyterian  Church. 
Dr.  Lindsley  is  a genuine  Irishman,  of  piety  and  cul- 
ture, a graduate  from  Belfast  in  both  his  literary 
and  theological  courses. . He  is  a strong  man  as  a 
preacher  and  pastor,  and  an  administrator  of  church 
affairs,  this  being  an  essential  quality  here.  He  is 
greatly  beloved  by  his  people  and  respected  by  the 
community.  He  needs  assistance,  as  there  ought  to 
be  a new  church  organized  and  a house  built  in  the 
city,  the  old  church  being  in  the  suburbs  and  too  far 
away  from  the  people  for  holding  more  than  one 
service  on  the  Sabbath.  There  ought  to  be  a chapel 
of  ease  in  the  city  and  also  an  assistant.  It  was  like 
water  in  the  desert,  far  from  home,  to  meet  this  most 
genial,  hospitable  and  companionable  man,  and  to 
enjoy  a few  hours  of  delightful  intercourse  with  him 
and  his  accomplished  sister. 

The  sermon  of  the  third  service  on  this  blessed 
Sabbath  was  assigned  to  us.  It  was  a source  of  real 
joy  to  preach  in  that  famous  house,  amidst  shadows 
of  centuries  falling  from  its  illustrious  dead,  and  in 
the  presence  of  a large  congregation  of  their  descen- 
dants, the  gospel  that  saves  alike  the  world  around. 
It  was  also  pleasant  to  be  greeted  so  warmly  by  the 
hands  of  Christians  dwelling  more  than  ten  thousand 
miles  away,  and  to  part  from  them  with  all  time  in 
the  hope  of  the  life  to  come  without  time.  Nor  was 
it  less  delightful  to  be  told  that  Mr.  De  Silva,  an 
honored  elder,  had  been  a reader  of  the  Presbyterian 
for  years.  In  the  last  rays  of  this  beautiful  Sabbath’s 
sunsetting  we  bade  farewell  to  these  new-made  but 
long-to-be-remembered  friends  on  the  other  side  of  the 
world,  and  set  our  face  across  an  unknown  sea  for 
China. 


CHAPTER  YI. 


TWENTY-FOUB  DAYS  IN  DEEP  AND  SHALLOW  SEAS. 

The  first  event  of  this  new  sea  experience  was 
tragic  and  touching.  One  of  the  passengers 
of  the  Messageries  steamer  Sindh,  bound  from  Cey- 
lon to  China,  was  a German,  apparently  in  good  cir- 
cumstances, with  a wife  and  two  children,  one  a babe. 
They  travelled  “first-class,”  had  a Chinese  nurse,  and 
seemed  happy.  The  man  exposed  himself  to  the  hot 
sun  of  Aden,  in  the  extreme  south  of  Arabia,  against 
the  remonstrance  of  the  commander  of  the  ship.  He 
also  doubtless  drank  too  much.  As  the  ship  neared 
Ceylon,  he  acted  strangely  and  seemed  possessed  with 
Franco-mania,  a disease  becoming  chronic  with  the 
German  nation.  He  thought  that  the  officers  of  the 
ship,  being  French,  were  plotting  against  him,  and 
blaming  him  for  some  trifling  disaster.  His  suffering 
from  these  unfounded  fears  must  have  been  terrible. 
He  appealed  to  the  British  passengers  to  protect  him, 
and  they  tried  in  vain  to  pursuade  him  of  the  misap-f 
prehension  under  which  he  was  laboring. 

It  was  thought  by  some  of  them  that  he  ought  to 
have  been  deprived  of  his  liberty  on  account  of  in- 
dications of  insanity.  But  this  would  have  been  a 
dangerous  experiment,  for  if  he  had  not  been  insane, 
he  could  have  had  recourse  against  the  company ; but 
while  all  action  was  in  a state  of  suspense,  he  himself 
solved  the  problem  of  his  insanity.  He  had  superin- 
tended the  preparation  of  a bath  for  his  wife,  and 
while  she  was  taking  it,  disappeared  never  to  be  seen 
again.  He  was  a partner  in  a business  in  the  Manilla 
Islands,  and  was  on  his  way  from  Hamburg  to  take 

5G 


charge  of  the  affairs  of  the  firm.  He  had  the  money 
necessary  for  the  expenses  of  the  journey  in  a belt 
around  his  waist  and  other  valuable  papers,  all  of 
which  he  took  with  him  into  the  depths  of  the  sea. 
It  was  thought  that  he  let  himself  down  through  a 
port-hole.  The  result  was  pitiful  in  the  extreme ; his 
poor  wife  could  not  believe  that  he  had  drowned  him- 
self, and  was  looking  everywhere  and  beseeching  in 
her  German  tongue,  which  could  only  be  imperfectly 
undemtood  by  two  persons  on  the  ship,  the  passen- 
gers to  search  for  him  among  the  freight  and  every 
other  place.  Only  the  ingeniousness  of  love  and 
despair  could  suggest  a doubt  of  his  fate. 

There  was  not  a woman  aboard  the  ship  who  could 
speak  a word  of  cheer  or  consolation  to  her ; she  would 
grasp  her  head  with  her  hands  and  cry  in  the  most 
passionate  strains  of  grief,  but  while  all  knew  it  meant 
the  anguish  of  a solitary  soul  in  distress,  no  one  could 
interpret  or  answer  it.  In  this  event,  we  learned  the 
impressive  lesson  that  while  all  sorrows  are  awful  and 
struggle  for  vent  in  the  human  breast,  they  are  simply 
terrific  when  they  cannot  be  uttered  in  the  ears  of 
pitying  natures.  It  was  a lesson  in  the  solitariness  of 
sorrow,  which  life  gives  but  few  opportunities  to  learn. 
The  wife  finally  lost  strength,  and  for  the  time  reason 
as  well.  None  to  explain,  none  to  comfort,  none  to 
hear  the  story  of  her  grief,  she  was  truly  treading  the 
wine  press  of  a comfortless  sorrow  alone.  The  Chinese 
nurse  wandered  for  days  about  the  ship  as  she  listed 
with  the  two  hapless*  children,  for  the  mother  con- 
sidered them  not.  How  slender  is  the  thread  that 
binds  us  to  each  other!  Any  of  the  passengers  would 
have  been  gla^  to  give  some  poor  mitigation  to  her 
sorrow,  but  for  that  lingual  gulf  that  lay  between. 


58 


She  had  only  a little  money,  not  enough  to  take  her 
home,  and  no  friends  who  could  advise  with  her. 
Her  case  was  indescribable.  A third-class  passenger, 
the  only  one  who  understood  German  to  any  extent,, 
said  she  was  raving  about  “ all  thy  waves  and  thy 
billows  have  gone  over  me.”  This  he  did  not  under- 
stand, but  the  Christian  caught  the  pathos  and  power 
of  it  from  the  knowledge  of  the  Psalms,  and  was 
assured  that  she,  at  least,  knew  the  source  of  all  help- 
ful sympathy,  which  the  Psalmist  named  when  he 
said,  “ When  my  father  and  my  mother  forsake  me, 
then  will  the  Lord  take  me  up.” 

As  the  days  went  by,  she  became  calmer  and  took  her 
children  to  her  arms,  and  then  her  pent  up  grief  was 
subdued  by  a torrent  of  tears,  as  she  exclaimed,  “ My 
poor  children,  what  will  become  of  us  without  money 
and  without  friends.”  She  had  left  two  older  ones  in 
Germany,  and  with  the  younger  she  must  return  over 
the  forlorn  track  of  her  blighted  hopes.  She  was  taken 
in  charge  by  the  German  Consul  at  Singapore,  to  be 
returned  over  the  same  dark  seas  which  had  covered  her 
husband  from  her  sight,  and  out  of  which  had  come  up- 
the  anguish  of  her  soul.  It  was  reported  after  we 
had  parted  from  the  ship  that  the  Consul  would  have 
to  send  her  and  her  babies  back  alone,  third-class,  in 
company  with  the  rude  kind  that  might  be  her  com- 
panions. This  also  was  the  result  of  no  one  being  able 
to  understand  the  language,  as  the  passengers  would 
gladly  have  made  up  the  difference.  This  is  one  of 
the  solemn  inexplicable  breaks  in  the  currents  of  life 
which  God  only  can  explain. 

Most  of  this  long  journey  through  these  seas  must  be 
practically  along  the  coiists  of  unknown  countries. 
The  ship  sighted  land  first  at  the  Straits  of  Malacca, 


59 


very  narrow ; a conical  mountain  at  one  side,  and  a 
long  range  of  undulating  hills  on  the  other,  which 
were  covered  with  green  grass  and  foliage  peculiar  to 
the  equator.  On  the  one  side  is  Acheen,  where  the 
Dutch  have  had  so  hard  a time  in  conquering  its  plucky 
inhabitants,  who  keep  themselves  quiet  long  enough 
to  inspire  the  confidence  that  the  Island  is  pacified, 
and  then  rise  and  murder  their  oppressors.  Bold 
and  hardy,  they  will  brook  restraint  no  more  than 
the  goats  on  their  mountains,  or  the  eagles  that  flit 
across  their  sunny  skies.  Malacca  lies  on  the  north 
side  of  the  Strait,  and  Sumatra  on  the  south ; this  may 
give  some  general  idea  of  our  whereabouts. 

Here,  situated  near  the  equator  and  bathed  by  the 
tepid  water  of  the  great  tropical  oceans,  is  a region 
which  enjoys  a climate  more  uniformly  hot  and  moist 
than  any  other  part  of  the  globe,  and  produces  growths 
nowhere  else  known.  Giant  insects,  such  as  the 
great  green  winged  ornithoptera,  princess  among 
the  butterflies,  the  man-like  orang-outang  among  the 
beasts,  and  the  gay  beauties  of  the  bird  of  paradise,, 
abound.  The  home  of  the  Malay  is  found  nowhere 
but  in  this  island  and  its  immediate  vicinity.  It  is  less 
known  than  many  parts  of  Africa.  It  will  surprise 
the  reader  that  some  of  the  separate  islands  of  this 
cluster  are  larger  than  France  or  the  Austrian  Em- 
pire. 

The  tourist  may  sail  for  weeks  along  the  shores  of 
one  of  these  islands,  and  the  inhabitants  of  the  several 
islands  are  often  as  little  known  to  each  other  as  the 
Chinese  and  American  Indians.  It  is  a region  lonely 
and  self-contained,  with  races,  customs  and  lan- 
guages peculiar  to  itself.  These  islands  have  been 
nearer  to  each  other  in  the  past  and  have  formed  a com- 


60 


pact  geographical  whole,  but  are  now  divisible  into 
two  portions  nearly  equal  in  extent,  which  widely 
differ  in  natural  products  and  really  form  two 
parts  of  the  primg,ry  divisions  of  the  earth. 

The  geology  of  the  island  is  interesting.  Judg* 
ing  from  the  distribution  of  animal  life,  the  Malay 
Archipelago  may  include  the  Malay  Peninsula  as 
far  as  Tenasserim  and  the  Nicobar  islands  on  the 
west,  and  Philippine  and  Solomon  Islands  beyond 
New  Guinea  on  the  east.  It  is  enclosed  in  a network 
of  watery  threads,  and  with  few  exceptions  all 
have  a uniform  climate  and  are  covered  with  the 
most  luxuriant  vegetation.  The  Malay  Archipel- 
ago extends  for  more  than  four  thousand  miles 
in  length,  is  about  one  thousand  three  hundred  in 
breadth,  and  includes  three  islands  larger  than  Great 
Britain,  while  Borneo  is  vastly  larger.  Sumatra  is 
as  large  as  Great  Britain.  Java,  Luzon  and  Celebes 
are  each  as  large  as  Ireland.  One  of  the  chief  volcanic 
belts  of  the  globe  passes  through  the  Archipelago.  A 
curving  line  marked  out  by  scores  of  active,  and  hun- 
dreds of  extinct,  volcanoes  may  be  traced  through  the 
whole  length  of  Sumatra,  and  Java,  &c.  In  this  belt 
have  occurred  some  of  the  most  disastrous  earthquakes 
of  time.  In  1772  forty  villages  were  destroyed  by 
the  eruption  of  Papadayang. 

The  present  distribution  of  life  is  mainly  the  result 
of  the  last  series  of  changes  that  the  earth  has  under- 
gone. We  know  from  geological  research  that  the 
surface  of  the  land  and  the  distribution  of  land  and 
water  are  everywhere  slowly  changing.  It  also  indi- 
cates that  the  forms  of  life,  which  inhabit  the  dis- 
turbed surfaces,  have  been,  during  every  period  of 
which  we  have  certain  knowledge,  slowly  changing  aa 


G1 


•well.  Every  stratum  of  sedimentary  rock  proves  that 
changes  of  level  have  taken  place,  and  different  species 
of  animal  life  and  plants  remaining  in  these  deposits 
show  that  corresponding  changes  did  occur  in  the 
organic  world.  Many  naturalists  now  admit  that 
these  facts  can  only  be  explained  by  the  greater  or 
less  lapse  of  time  since  the  upheaval  of  all  islands 
from  the  bed  of  the  ocean,  or  their  separation  from 
the  nearest  island,  and  the  relative  period  can  be  de- 
termined generally  by  the  depth  of  the  intervening 
sea. 

The  depth  of  the  sea  may  be  taken  as  a measure  of 
time,  as  well  as  the  change  of  organic  forms.  The 
soundings  of  the  wide  expanse  of  sea  separating 
Malacca  from  Siam,  which  we  are  crossing,  are 
usually  so  shallow  that  ships  can  anchor  in  any  part 
of  it,  rarely  exceeding  forty  fathoms,  and  therefore 
the  separation  of  these  islands  must  be,  according  to 
geological  computation,  comparatively  recent.  A simi- 
lar change  is  perhaps  going  on  now  in  the  Atlantic. 
In  the  cycles  of  the  future  it  may  be  divided  up  in  the 
same  way,  ships  threading  their  way  for  thousands 
of  miles  between  islands. 

While  we  were  indulging  in  speculations  as  a matter 
of  diversion,  the  beautiful  opening  into  the  Bay  of 
Singapore  appeared  through  a narrow  channel  be- 
tween steep  hills  It  is  hilly  and  well  timbered ; the 
only  country  that  looked  like  home.  Its  ploughed  hill- 
sides, its  hard  woods,  all  reminded  us  of  the  land  best 
loved,  but  very  far  away.  It  is  a centre  of  commerce, 
and,  of  course,  belongs  to  Great  Britain.  It  was 
not  captured,  but  honestly  bought.  It  has  the 
activity  of  Chicago,  with  all  the  varieties  of  race, 
language,  custom,  costume  and  products  of  the 


• \ 

G2 

whole  East.  It  is  an  estuary  into  which  they  are 
all  drawn.  The  government  and  army  people  and 
chief  merchants  are,  of  course,  English;  but  the 
mass  of  the  population  is  Chinese.  “ John”  is  here 
with  his  “trigger  eye”  set  to  the  main  chance.  He 
is  merchant,  banker,  shopkeeper,  mechanic,  house- 
keeper, road-maker,  and  is  the  horse  of  the  town.  He 
hitches  himself  into  a two-wheeled  coach  and  delivers 
passengers  all  over  the  city  in  a trot;  and  if  paid 
enough,  will  gallop  away  with  his  load  as  if  it  were 
but  a pile  oT  feathers.  It  is  always  the  result  of  Brit- 
ish rule  either  to  make  men  or  jackasses  of  the  inhabi- 
tants. They  are  bound  to  be  something. 

The  native  Malays  are  usually  fishermen,  both  lazy 
and  hopeful,  for  it  is  only  such  can  catch  fish.  They 
are  also  boatmen,  and  have  every  kind  of  craft,  either 
for  coasting  or  for  use  in  port.  The  Klings  of  Western 
India  are  a numerous  body  of  Mohammedans,  who 
adhere  to  their  faith  with  the  usual  pertinacity.  There 
is  but  little  doing  to  reach  this  teeming  mass  of  idola- 
trous humanity.  The  Roman  Catholics  have  some 
missions  among  the  Chinese  and  Malays,  and  there  are 
a few  Protestant  missions  in  Singapore.  The  Scotch 
have  a mission ; the  American  Methodists  are  doing 
something,  chiefly,  however,  with  the  English-speak- 
ing people,  who  often  get  more  religiously  astray  than 
the  heathen  when  they  are  beyond  home  restraints 
in  a city  like  Singapore. 

We  had  fraternal  interviews  with  Rev.  Messrs. 
McPhee  and  McKenzie.  Mr.  McPhee  is  the  pastor 
of  the  Presbyterian  church,  a man  of  mind  and  cul- 
ture, but  is  isolated  and  needs  helpers.  His  church 
could  support  an  assistant,  and  there  are  Europeans 
enough  to  employ  the  time  of  two  vigorous  men,  be- 


63 


sides  laying  foundations  and  directing  missionary 
work  among  the  natives.  There  could  be  no  better 
field. 

We  did  .not  see  Kev.  Mr.  Cook,  who  has  been  de- 
voted to  mission  work  here  for  some  time,  but  heard  a 
good  report  of  his  labors  and  devotion.  But  “ what'  is 
one  among  so  many  ?” 

The  Kev.  Mr.  McKenzie  belongs  to  China,  where 
he  has  wrought  for  years,  and  will  soon  return  to  his 
former  place  of  labor.  It  is  sad  to  see  a population 
and  centre  for  all  nations,  in  a very  paradise  of  natural 
beauty,  so  neglected.  Here  is  every  kind  of  incen- 
tive to  the  gathering  of  the  nations.  It  is  a 
great  distributing  centre.  The  harbor  is  crowded 
with  men-of-war  and  trading  vessels  of  every  nation 
except  our  own,  though  once  the  Americans  floated  the 
finest  merchant  navy  in  the  East,  but  its  supremacy 
was  destroyed  by  the  rebel  cruiser,  the  Alabama. 

CHAPTER  VII. 

SINGAPORE. 

SINGAPORE  is  a combination  of  grandeur  and 
squalor,  having  magnificent  houses  and  Chi- 
nese and  native  bungalows  built  of  bamboo  and 
thatched  with  the  same,  which  would  burn  up  as 
quickly  as  a palace  of  newspapers.  There  are  fine 
public  buildings ; a Cathedral  of  the  English  Estab- 
lished Church,  a very  pretty  Presbyterian  church ; the 
Methodists  have  also  a church,  and  likewise  the 
English  Baptists.  There  are  mosques,  Hindu  tem- 
ples and  Chinese  Joss  houses.  The  French  Jesuits 
are  here,  having  established  missions  among  these 
island  Chinese,  which,  through  long  patience,  have 


64 


been, successful  to  a considerable  extent.  The  Jesuits 
do  their  work  thoroughly,  as  of  old.  In  Cochin,  Ton- 
quin,  and  China  itself,  they  never  go  backward.  On 
our  ship  are  recruits  on  their  way  to  take  the  places 
of  those  murdered  by  the  Chinese  in  their  resistance  to 
the  French  occupation  of  Tonquin  and  Hainan. 

The  island  of  Singapore  is  a series  of  hills,  some 
rising  to  an  elevation  of  three  or  four  hundred  feet, 
the  tops  covered  with  virgin  forests.  The  trees  are 
cut  and  sawed  by  whip-saws  in  the  hands  of  Chinese. 
In  the  hills  are  dug  tiger  pits  fifteen  feet  deep 
and  wider  at  the  bottom  than  at  the  top.  The  tigers 
come  into  the  suburbs  of  Singapore  and  chew  up  on 
an  average  a “ Celestial”  a day,  and  yet  they  are  not 
happy.  There  is  a botanical  garden  here,  which  is 
filled  with  all  that  grows  under  this  productive 
sun;  for  Singapore  is  only  sixty  miles  from  the 
equator.  Here  was  a new  form  of  palm,  which  we 
called  “radiating,”  because  its  long  branches  start 
from  the  stock  about  forty  feet  from  the  ground,  and 
from  what  resembles  a capital  radiated  like  the  spokes 
of  a wheel,  producing  a novel  efiect.  It  is  called 
“ Traveller’s  Palm.”  In  this  garden  were  orchids,  the 
Vanda  Lowii,  which  attaches  itself  to  trees  and  throws 
out  pendant  spikes  from  six  to  eight  feet  long,  some- 
times reaching  nearly  to  the  ground.  These  plants  are 
covered  with  flowers  of  orange  tint,  deepening  into 
red  and  spotted  with  dark  purple. 

Ceram  is  a great  “Sago  district,”  from  which  the  sur- 
rounding islands  obtain  a supply  of  their  staple  food. 
The  Sago  Palm  somewhat  resembles  the  Cocoanut 
Palm,  having  large  spiny  leaves.  When  ten  or 
fifteen  years  old  it  sends  up  an  immense  spike  of  blos- 
soms, and  then  dies.  It  thrives  in  swampy  low- 


65 


lands ; its  leaves  are  used  by  the  natives  for  building, 
flooring  and  thatching  houses,  and  in  many  other 
useful  ways.  A full-grown  tree  is  selected  just  before 
the  period  of  floweriug;  it  is  cut  down  and  trimmed, 
and  a broad  strip  of  bark  taken  from  its  upper  side, 
the  whole  length  of  the  trunk.  This  lays  bare  the 
pith,  which  consists  of  starchy  matter  interwoven  with 
vegetable  fibre.  This  is  yellowish  in  color  near  the 
bottom  and  pure  white  higher  up.  An  implement  of 
wood,  with  a piece  of  quartz  in  the  end,  is  used  in 
dislodging  the  coveted  contents,  which  are  gathered 
in  baskets,  made  of  the  leaves  of  the  tree,  and  washed 
in  open  troughs  of  the  same.  The  starch  is  thus 
separated  from  the  fibrous  matter,  which  is  rejected^ 
The  Sago  is  made  into  rolls  and  wrapped  in  leaves, 
and  is  thus  sent  to  market.  It  is  boiled,  baked  into 
bread  or  cakes,  and  eaten  with  butter,  a little  sugar 
and  grated  cocoanut,  and  prepared  in  other  ways. 
One  tree  will  yield  about  six  hundred  pounds,  and 
this  will  supply  a man  with  food  for  a whole  year,  and 
in  ten  days  he  can  perform  the  whole  labor  of  obtain- 
ing the  supply,  which  when  dried  keeps  perfectly; 
the  total  cost  being  about  twelve  shillings  for  the 
year. 

The  ease  with  which  this  is  obtained  is  a great  in- 
centive to  idleness ; the  people  therefore  wander  about, 
fishing  a little  and  doing  some  petty  trading  with 
others  as  aimless  and  careless  as  themselves.  There 
is  a story  told  of  the  Rajah  of  one  of  the  islands  of 
this  group  which  shows  the  adroitness  of  the  native 
mind.  His  revenues  were  derived  from  a small  tax 
on  rice,  a trifling  measure  to  each  individual.  Hav- 
ing reason  to  believe  himself  defrauded,  it  was  not 
in  his  power  to  right  matters,  as  he  did  not  know  the 


6G 


number  of  bis  subjects,  and  to  take  a census  would 
put  the  thieves  on  the  alert  to  defeat  his  purpose.  So 
he  devised  the  following  way  of  accomplishing  it. 
He  fell  into  a state  of  profound  melancholy,  which 
continued  about  a week.  His  wives  were  unable  to 
cheer  him ; he  ate  nothing  and  lost  all  interest  in  his 
accustomed  amusements,  and  his  courtiers  began  to 
fear  that  he  had  fallen  under  “ the  evil  eye.”  One 
day  he  sent  for  all  his  chiefs,  and  announced  that  the 
spirit  of  the  fire  mountain  had  appeared,  and  sum- 
moned him  to  an  interview  at  the  top,  to  receive  an 
oracle  of  great  importance  to  himself  and  all  the 
people.  He  then  commanded  them  to  clear  a road 
for  him  through  the  forest  and  up  the  steep  ascents. 
So  all  the  people  turned  out  and  made  the  way ; and 
when  it  was  all  ready,  he  was  escorted  by  a great 
procession  amidst  much  rejoicing. 

The  Rajah  and  his  courtiers  were  mounted  upon 
black  horses  with  gay  saddle-cloths,  and  thousands 
followed,  some  on  foot  and  some  on  horses.  Several 
days  were  passed  in  making  the  journey,  and  when 
near  the  top  the  Rajah  announced  that  he  must  go 
alone  into  the  presence  of  the  great  spirit.  He  went 
a little  *way,  and  fell  asleep  under  the  shadow  of  a 
rock — his  nap  lasting  four  hours — while  his  waiting 
followers  thought  the  god  must  have  much  to  say 
from  the  length  of  the  interview.  When  he  awoke  he 
appeared  with  a very  grave  face  and  refused  to  say  a 
word  to  any  one,  and  the  procession  returned  in  solemn 
silence.  After  three  days  he  summoned  his  chiefs, 
and  told  them  what  had  happened.  A shining  spirit 
had  appeared,  whose  brightness  dazzled  him  so  that 
he  had  fallen  prostrate  before  it.  It  prophesied  that 
disaster,  sickness  and  death  would  come  upon  people, 


67 


horses  and  cattle.  He  commanded  that  twelve  sacred 
krisses  (or  cutlasses)  should  be  made  at  once,  and  that 
every  man,  woman  and  child  in  every  village  through- 
out the  realm  should  send  a needle.  When  any  dis- 
ease or  plague  should  appear  one  of  the  sacred  krisses 
should  be  sent  thither,  and  if  every  person  in  that  vil- 
lage did  his  duty  in  sending  a needle,  the  calam- 
ity would  be  averted,  but  if  one  failed  the  kriss 
would  have  no  influence.  So  all  the  chiefs  announced 
the  wonderful  vision  to  the  people  and  all  made  haste 
to  comply  with  its  conditions.  The  Rajah  received  the 
needles  in  bundles,  each  with  the  name  of  the  head 
man  of  the  village  marked  upon  it,  and  when  every  vil- 
lage and  district  had  sent  in  its  bundle  they  were  care- 
fully divided  into  twelve  parts  and  the  best  craftsman 
was  summoned  to  make  them  into  krisses  under  the 
Rajah’s  own  supervision,  and  when  finished  they  were 
carefully  folded  away  in  silk  wrappings.  At  the  time 
of  the  rice  harvest,  when  the  royal  revenues  fell  short, 
the  Rajah  mildly  referred  to  the  number  of  needles 
representing  the  derelict  district  or  village.  Soon 
his  coffers  overflowed  with  the  tribute  which  poured  in, 
and  he  became  the  richest  and  the  most  powerful  of 
Rajahs. 

The  Malays  are  an  interesting  people  in  all  respects 
except  personal  courage.  They  never  commit  suicide. 
No  Malay  has  the  courage  to  do  that.  When  he  is  dis- 
appointed in  love  he  will  suffocate  himself,  however, 
by  a pan  of  lighted  charcoal.  Despondency  is  almost 
an  epidemic,  and  when  a neighbor  discovers  it  in  a 
neighbor  he  tells  the  police,  and  the  victim  is  locked 
up  until  he  is  over  it.  The  Malay  is  like  his  country, 
the  climate  of  which  is,  in  evenness  of  temperature,  so 
aweetly  moderated  by  heat  and  moisture  that  there  is 


68 


not  a month  in  the  year  that  does  not  ripen  fruits.  Hia 
wants  are  few,  and  mother  earth  supplies  him  with  prodi- 
gality. If  no  friend  offers  rice  when  he  is  needy 
there  are  plenty  of  fish  in  the  streams,  and  a never* 
failing  supply  of  wild  fruit  in  the  jungles.  His  hos- 
pitality is  only  limited  by  his  resources ; he  will  divide 
the  last  morsel  of  rice  with  an  acquaintance,  and  is  so 
well-behaved  that  the  English  in  many  towns  had  to 
instruct  him  as  to  the  necessity  and  use  of  prisons, 
when  he  replied : — “ England  a very  bad  country — 
you  must  learn  Malay.” 

Notwithstanding  the  general  good  disposition  of  the 
Malays,  it  was  the  greatest  nest  for  pirates  in  the  whole 
East,  and  had  to  be  cleared  of  them  by  English  steamers. 
Sir  James  Raffles,  the  first  Governor,  was  the  first 
efflcient  teacher  of  civilization  to  the  piratical  Dyaks. 
He  went  to  them  most  pacifically  in  a fleet  of  gun- 
boats. He  only  wanted  peace ; but  they  were  not  dis- 
posed to  give  up  their  evil  habits.  They  would  not  hear 
to  it,  and  nearly  captured  his  fleet;  but  he  rudely 
opened  their  eyes  and  ideas,  and  bodies,  too,  by  his 
cannon,  which  led  to  the  peace  he  so  much  desired 
for  both. 

The  Dyaks  were  the  agriculturists  of  the  islands. 
The  Malays  plundered  them  in  their  foraging  expedi- 
tions, and  the  Dyaks  in  turn  rushed  to  their  homps  by 
the  sea,  cutting  off  Malay  heads  with  which  to  decor- 
ate their  temples.  A young  Dyak  was  not  accounted 
eligible  for  marriage  to  one  of  their  dusky  maidens 
until  he  could  show  one  or  more  heads  adorning  his 
walls.  Sir  James  made  a treaty  with  them  binding 
them  to  stop  cutting  off  Malay  heads.  The  chief  begged 
for  the  privilege  of  a few  for  their  grand  festival  and 
their  dance  in  the  temple.  “Not  a head,”  said  Sir 
James,  “ until  you  have  taken  mine.” 


1 


G9 

Singapore  is  a place  where  the  faces  of  almost 
every  nationality  of  the  world  can  be  seen.  Here 
there  is,  with  most  of  the  inhabitants,  neither  God  nor 
ruler  bigger  than  a dollar.  The  images  of  dollars  may 
be  seen  in  the  pupils  of  their  eyes.  Even  the  coolies 
are  intent  upon  the  main  chance.  They  understood 
that  the  government  would  pay  a bounty  for  dead 
tigers.  They  found  a boa  constrictor  and  thought 
he  would  bring  a bonanza.  They  watched  him 
until  he  had  filled  himself  with  a hog,  and  had 
laid  down  for  a three  days’  siesta,  when  they 
got  a rope  round  his  neck  and  tail,  and  dragged  him. 
through  the  streets  to  the  government  oflice ; but  the 
government  had  no  bounty  for  boa  constrictors.  He 
was  forty  feet  long  and  two  feet  in  diameter.  He 
made  a great  sensation;  so  the  coolie,  with  the  instinct 
of  a Barnum,  started  a show — white  gentlemen,  one 
dollar,  but  from  the  natives  he  took  whatever  he  could 
get.  At  first  it  was  a success ; but  the  boa  constrictor 
got  his  revenge  by  his  odor,  which  was  so  intolerable 
that  the  whole  city  had  to  hold  its  nose  until  his  mor- 
tal remains  were  thrown  into  the  sea.  At  which  a 
Chinaman  said  sadly : — “ What  a pity  that  there 
should  be  so  much  waste  of  meat.” 

The  tigers  in  this  island  are  immense  in  number, 
cunning  and  size.  But  what  is  most  remarkable  ia 
their  passionate  fondness  for  Chinese  flesh.  It  is  said 
that  tigers  kill  a man  on  an  average  of  every  day  in 
the  year.  If  they  can  only  get  a Chinaman  they  die 
happy.  Convicts  are  employed  in  killing  them  under 
the  direction  of  European  police. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


A MUNITION  OF  ROCKS, 

SUCH  a strongliold  as  this  is  exceedingly  .restM 
after  being  tossed  on  the  sea  more  than  twenty 
days.  It  is  the  result  of  a commotion  at  seme  time 
in  the  centre  of  the  earth,  out  of  which  came  the 
mountains  under  whose  shelter  Hong  Kong,  China, 
has  seated  herself.  The  whole  Eastern  Continent  must 
have  quivered  under  the  rendings  of  the  upheaval. 
There  can  be  no  mistake  as  to  its  birthplace ; it  was 
born  of  fire  and  water,  and  looks  even  now  as  if  still 
dripping  from  its  ocean  bed.  The  formation  of  this 
island  mountain  is  not  wholly  granitic.  The  skeleton 
structure  is  of  granite,  basalt,  silicious  and  schistose 
rock.  There  are  also  traps  and  trachytic  porphyries, 
iron  and  galena,  lead  and  iron  pyrites.  These 
cannot  resist  the  deposits  of  salts  from  the  sea, 
and  also  yield  to  the  erosions  of  the  monsoons.  Car- 
bonic acid  is  a powerful  solvent  to  these  rocks,  and 
especially  on  those  having  a calcareous  base.  There 
is  also  an  abundance  of  feldspar,  and  this  invites  the 
destructive  acids  to  its  surface.  The  presence  of 
feldspar  is  dangerous  to  health,  and  many  of  the  fatal 
epidemics  of  fever  have  been  traced  to  its  influence. 
Frequent  thunderstorms  during  ^spring  and  sum- 
mer develop,  too,  large  quantities  of  nitric  acid,  which 
the  rains  absorb,  and  this  brings  another  solvent  to 
work  on  the  rocks,  the  results  of  which  are  thought  to 
be  hurtful  to  health,  especially  in  the  desperate  heat 
of  most  of  the  year. 

Parts  of  the  island  abound  in  bowlders,  which  are 

70 


71 


produced  by  the  decomposing  tendencies  of  the  granite, 
to  which  they  will  themselves  soon  yield.  The  forma- 
tion of  these  is  not  unlike  the  action  of  gangrene  in 
the  body,  in  which  large  portions  of  apparently 
slightly  diseased  matter  are  sloughed  off.  The  result 
of  all  these  forces  is  a constant  change  of  the  con- 
figuration of  the  island,  which  is  very  observable 
in  the  course  of  even  a quarter  of  a century.  The 
mountain  ranges  are  flattening  and  losing  their 
altitudes.  The  time  will  come  when  men  will 
wonder  where  the  mountains  have  hidden  themselves. 
The  headlands  of  the  southern  coast  are  composed  of 
granite,  with  large  admixtures  of  quartz,  their  ap- 
parent stratification  being  due  to  the  effects  of 
crystallization  arising  from  the  cooling  of  the  igneous 
rocks. 

Next  in  interest  to  the  geology  of  a place  are  its 
embellishments — the  flora  of  the  Hong  Kong  island. 
There  is  but  little  doubt  that  these  silent  mountains  were 
once  covered  by  a dense  foliage.  So  they  will  soon  be 
again ; for  thousands  of  trees  are  being  planted  ever;^ 
month,  the  object  being  not  only  to  promote  natural 
beauty,  but  to  protect  the  soil  on  the  mountains  from 
crumbling  and  sliding  away.  The  original  growth  was 
of  Pemus  Sinensis;  but  on  the  northern  and  western 
sides  there  is  a wonderful  abundance  and  variety  in  the 
flora.  There  have  been  catalogued  ten  hundred  and 
fifty-six  species,  distributed  into  five  hundred  and 
ninety-one  genera  and  one  hundred  and  tAventy-five 
orders ; thirty- two  of  these  speqies  are  probably  only 
escapes  from  cultivation;  nearly  one  hundred  more 
must  be  classed  'as  weeds  of  cultivation,  yet  many 
of  the  latter  are  scattered  so  widely  over  tropical 
Asia  that  they  have  a fair  show  to  be  classed  among 


the  native  flora.  There  are  constant  additions  being 
made  to  the  large  number  already  given. 

The  food  vegetables  are  sweet  potatoes,  radishes 
Irish  potatoes,  peas,  water  melons,  ground  nuts,  rice, 
millet,  sugar  cane  and  maize.  The'  fruits  are  pumel- 
oes,  oranges,  logouts,  the  lotus,  and  one  well-known 
on  many  of  our  Western  American  rivers,  j^awpaws, 
guavas  and  rose  apples,  whampis,  lychees,  longans, 
mangoes  and  bananas;  also  one  which  grew  in  the 
time  of  the  Lake-dwellers  in  Switzerland,  and  is  now 
almost  extinct  in  most  countries ; cotton  jute,  the  betel 
pepper  and  small  quantities  of  indigo  are  cultivated 
by  the  natives.  Of  the  arborescent  flora  there  are  ten 
species  of  oaks — a new  one  discovered  recently  added 
to  the  number — three  species  of  palms  are  indigenous. 
Ferns  abound  in  great  variety  and  beauty.  There 
are  also  several  species  of  orchids. 

Ascending  the  mountains  we  strike  the  Euro* 
pean  level,  where  vegetation  is  very  European-like. 
Here  we  meet  old  home  friends,  under  which  child- 
hood delighted  itself,  the  honeysuckles,  clematis 
and  rhododendron.  But  these  would  be  incomplete 
without  their  insect  and  animal  admirers.  This  island 
is  celebrated  for  the  number  and  beauty  of  its  insect 
inhabitants.  The  coleopteraj  or  beetles;  the  lucemidoRy 
of  which  there  are  twenty-seven  species,  nearly  all  be- 
longing to  the  tropics.  Of  the  sand-beetles  genus 
cicindela  has  twenty  species,  the  lamili  corniace  two 
hundred  and  fifty;  the  water-beetles  number  fifty  spe- 
cies. These  are  only  a few  to  indicate  the  superabun- 
dance of  insect  life,  their  quality  and  beauty. 

In  the  number  America  is  represented,  as  might  be 
expected,  in  the  mosquito  and  the  cockroach  of  mon- 
strous proportions.  The  only  reason  we  have  ever 


73 


heard  for  the  existence  of  the  mosquito  (“  except  pure 
cussedness”)  is  that  he  is  a first-rate  febrifuge.  The 
philosophy  of  this  munificent  Chinese  discovery  has 
not  been  given,  and  the  only  one  imagination  can 
supply  is  that  it  compels  sleepers  to  keep  them- 
selves covered  in  damp,  cool  nights  when  the  air  is 
full  of  malaria.  No  one  is,  however,  obliged  to  accept 
this  little  hypothesis  who  can  furnish  a better  one.  But- 
terflies are  like  birds  in  size  and  of  exquisite  beauty, 
and  in  such  numbers  that  each  citizen  may  have  a 
dozen  or  more  of  his  own.  The  moths  are  monsters, 
sometimes  measuring  eleven  inches  from  end  to  end. 
The  best  known  and  longest  to  be  remembered  is  the 
creature  popularly  called  white  ant,  but  is  a genus  dis- 
tinct from  the  ant,  though  similar  in  some  respects  in 
its  habits.  It  masticates  great  timbers,  beams,  floors, 
furniture,  books,  and  produces  such  dangers  where 
heavy  weight  is  borne,  as  in  bridges,  warehouses,  &c., 
that  all  government  buildings  are  inspected  yearly. 
Tobacco  acts  as  a poison  to  it,  and  we  hope  that 
for  the  good  of  humanity  the  demand  in  this  direction 
will  exceed  the  produgt. 

The  mantidse  abound  in  large  and  superior  species ; 
by  their  name  hangs  a tale  which  comes  from 
their  habit  of  joining  their  long  flattened  forelegs 
together,  as  if  in  the  attitude  of  prayer.  It  is  re- 
ported on  Roman  Catholic  authority  that  one  day 
Francis  Xavier,  the  first  missionary  to  China,  saw 
one  in  this  devout  and  ceremonious  attitude  which  he 
instantly  commanded  to  chant  a prayer ; the  result, 
as  might  have  been  expected  from  the  high  authority 
exercised,  was  that  the  creature  did  it  in  the  regu- 
lation ecclesiastical  whine.  The  Chinese  heathen 
have  no  respect  for  his  prayerful  attitudes  and  have 


74 


struck  him  on  the  evil  side  of  his  nature  and  set 
him  to  fighting  his  fellows  in  genuine  cock  fashion, 
with  lively  bets  on  the  issue.  They  also  employ  the 
field-cricket  for  fighting  purposes ; the  males  are  quar- 
relsome, and  if  two  are  confined  in  the  same  cage 
will  fight  until  there  is  not  strength  enough  to  clinch 
and  then  they  will  be  pouting  and  kicking  in  the 
direction  of  each  other,  and  look  as  if  they  might  be 
scolding,  when  the  Chinese  stir  them  up  with  straws. 
They  go  at  it  again  until  one  side  or  the  other, 
into  which  the  crowd  has  divided  itself,  has  ail  the 
cash.  The  traditional  pugnacity  of  red-heads  is 
put  beyond  all  controversy  in  these  matches,  for  the 
red-headed  crickets  are  the  quickest  to  fight  and  the 
“ gamiest,”  and  bring  in  the  market  as  high  as  six 
dollars. 

No  country  in  this  latitude  is  considered  well  fur- 
nished without  its  quota  of  snakes.  Hong  Kong  has- 
the  Indian  Python,  but  it  is  much  smaller  than 
in  its  native  country,  and  behaves  like  a foreigner. 
It  probably  came  as  a stowaway  in  the  hold  of 
a ship,  nestled  in  cotton  or  other  goods.  The 
largest  specimen  caught  on  the  island  measured 
seven  feet.  The  Cobra  is  here,  contending  for  a place 
in  the  struggle  for  life ; he  is  probably  also  a foreigner. 
There  are  song-birds  of  varied  notes.  The  mocking- 
bird is  larger  than  in  America;  his  voice  is  louder  and 
shriller.  There  are  dainty  little  twitterers,  whose  notes 
are  indescribably  sweet.  The  impudent  sparrow  is  all 
about,  self-possessed,  self-asserting  and  as  quarrelsome 
as'an  Oriental.  There  are  birds  of  the  gayest  plum- 
age, of  wonderfiil  variety  and  combination  of  color, 
all  challenging  admiration  either  on  account  of  beauty 
cf  plumage  or  sweetness  of  song. 


Having  given  a faint  conception  of  the  furnishing 
of  the  island,  its  location  and  history  must  be  consider- 
ed. It  lies  off  the  coast  of  the  Kwang-lung  Province,  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Canton  river.  Its  greatest  length  is 
about  eleven  miles,  its  breadth  from  two  to  four  miles,, 
its  circumference  twenty-seven  miles,  and  it  has  sn 
area  of  twenty-nine  square  miles.  A narrow  strait 
separates  it  from  a stretch  of  small  mountains  or 
hills  at  the  end  of  a promontory  and  the  Ly-ee-moon 
Pass,  being  only  a half  mile  wide.  The  name  means 
fragrant  streams,  called  so,  no  doubt,  from  its 
abundant  and  healthful  waters.  Its  cone-shaped 
hills  are  discernable  on  each  side  of  the  channels  long 
before  the  main  island  is  sighted,  and  these  look  like 
lone  sentries  standing  in  the  deep,  keeping  guard  over 
the  central  treasure.  It  was  first  rescued  from  the 
pirates.  Only  within  a few  years  have  the  waters  been 
cleared  from  piratical  junks,  and  even  now  the  coast  and 
river  steamers  have  in  their  saloons  stacks  of  rifles, 
swords  and  navy  revolvers  in  case  of  attack,  while  some 
carry  cannon  for  these  pillaging  crafts  which  still 
hover  around. 

In  1816  Lord  Amherst  used  this  island  as  a place 
of  storage  and  rendezvous.  It  was  so  well  situated 
for  a harbor  for  the  merchant  marine  of  the  East  that 
its  purchase  from  the  Chinese  was  under  negotiation 
for  a long  time.  The  advantages  of  its  possession  be- 
came apparent  to  the  Biitish  after  their  complication 
with  China  during  their  assault  on  the  foreign  opium 
merchants  in  1839.  The  Chinese  determined  to  rid 
themselves  of  foreigners  any  way  easiest  of  execution, 
and  matters  were  brought  to  a crisis  by  a general  ex- 
odus of  British  subjects.  In  August,  1839,  war  was 
declared,  and  Hong  Kong  was  given  to  the  British 


76 


crown  in  1841,  and  six  days  later  the  British  flag  was 
hoisted  on  the  island.  Its  settlement  was  com- 
menced in  May  following,  and  on  June  7th  it 
was  declared  a free  port.  It  increased  with  wonderful 
rapidity  until  1856,  when  some  Chinese  sailors,  serving 
on  the  British  Steamer  Arrow,  were  forcibly  taken 
away  -by  native  authorities,  as  was  done  by  Great 
Britain  to  America,  leading  to  the  war  of  1812. 
Great  principles  often  turn  on  “whose  ox  it  is  that  is 
being  gored.”  This  insult  to  the  British  flag  led  to 
the  bombardment  and  capture  of  Canton,  in  1857. 
In  1860  the  peninsula  Kowwong  was  ceded,  as  an  in- 
demnity, to  Great  Britain.  Many  reverses  since 
then  have  overtaken  the  island.  The  suppression  of 
the  coolie  trade  brought  great  financial  depression. 
Cyclones  and  fires  have  conspired  against  its  exist- 
ence. 

In  1862  in  Canton,  Hong  Kong  and'  Macao  fifty 
thousand  lives  were  destroyed.  Subsequently  at  diflTer- 
ent  times  there  have  been  four  of  these  typhoons 
almost  as  disastrous ; still  the  city  climbed  them  and 
climbed  up  higher  on  the  side  of  its  mountain  bastion. 
The  situation  is  simply  magnificent ; the  world  might 
be  travelled  over  for  an  age  and  such  a spot  discovered 
nowhere  else,  or  any  thing  even  approaching  it  in 
grandeur.  It  is  unique  in  proportions.  There  is  a 
chain  of  mountains,  dome  topped,  extending  from  one 
end  of  the  island  to  the  other.  The  remainder  of  the 
island  is  finished  out  with  small  hill-domes ; every  eleva- 
tion is  round-topped.  This  chain  has  in  the  centre  a 
great  dome,  or  central  mountain,  towering  above  all 
the  rest,  to  the  height  of  near  two  thousand  feet,  and  is 
more  perpendicular  on  its  sides  than  has  been  seen 
anywhere  else.  It  lifts  its  bald  head  to  the  heavens 


77 


and  catches  the  first  and  last  rays  of  the  sun  and 
hands  them  on  over  sea  and  land.  The  most  entranc- 
ing sunset  we  ever  witnessed  was  seen’  in  this  harbor 
as  the  ship  set  its  prow  towards  Shanghai.  The  bitu- 
minous smoke  of  the  hundreds  of  steamships  and 
factories  rose  and  lay  in  dark  wreaths  around  the  head 
of  Victoria — the  crown  of  all  the  mountain-glories. 
On  the  brightest  days  this  smoke  often  obscures  the 
crown  altogether ; so  it  was  as  this  scene  began.  It 
seemed  as  if  there  were  a hidden  altar  there  and  a high 
priest  obscured  in  sacrificial  smoke,  when  the  sun  broke 
in  upon  it  and  changed  all  into  a halo  of  amber  and 
gold,  throwing  beams  in  radiating  points  all  down  the 
side.  It  was  a grander  crown  than  it  ever  entered  human 
thought  to  devise.  The  glory  of  the  scene  remained 
long  after  the  sun  had  withdrawn  from  our  vision. 
The  harbor  was  aglow  along  its  whole  length,  and  the 
ships  moved  in  a golden  glimmer.  The  mountains 
across  the  harbor  were  tipped  with  the  glory  of  the 
crown  of  Victoria.  This  central  dome  has  borne  the 
name  of  the  illustrious  queen  for  a long  time,  and 
she  herself  could  not  sustain  her  crown  so  glori- 
ously. Sloping  down  on  gradual  lines  are  a series 
of  hills  of  the  same  shape,  scalloped  between,  until 
the  last  on  either  side  is  not  more  than  two  hundred 
feet  high,  being  a few  of  the  stalwarts  that  brace  this 
throne  and  crown-head.  Back  of  Victoria  is  High 
West,  seventeen  hundred  and  seventy-four  feet  high; 
to  the  west  is  Mount  Davis,  eight  hundred  and  thirty- 
three  feet  high ; to  the  east  and  south  is  Mount  Gough, 
fifteen  hundred  and  fifteen  feet  high,  and  Mount 
Killet,  eleven  hundred  and  thirty-one  feet  high. 
There  is  so  little  space  between  this  range  and  the 
bay  that  the  citizens  have  had  to  dig  into  the  mountain 


78 


sides  for  space,  but  with  all  their  efforts  to  spread  out, 
they  have  the  appearance  of  those  who  are  pinched  to 
pain  by  tight  shoes  and  over-lacing. 

The  business  part  of  Hong  Kong  is  constantly 
encroaching  on  the  bay.  The  project  is  under  con- 
sideration to  fill  up  two  hundred  and  fifty  acres  of 
the  upper  part  of  the  bay  to  give  more  room  for  the 
increasing  business  and  population.  There  are  many 
l^alatial  residences,  built  of  granite  and  sandstone, 
embowered  in  luxuriant  foliage.  The  streets  are 
on  rising  grades  around  the  mountain  in  spiral  fashion, 
so  that  the  traveller  has  to  go  to  the  extreme  end  of 
the  city  in  order  to  get  to  the  street  above  him,  or 
has  to  climb  an  ascent  altogether  too  near  the  per- 
• pendicular  for  comfort,  if  he  would  shorten  his  way. 

The  conveyance  is  by  man-power.  The  Chinese 
either  carry  sedan  chairs,  or  pull  the  traveller  in 
jinrickshaws,  which  are  chairs  on  two  wheels  with 
shafts,  in  which  the  Chinaman  bends  himself  in  a semi- 
circle to  move  his  load.  .Sometimes  in  coming  down 
steep  grades  he  stumbles  and  falls,  and  the  roads 
being  of  concrete  are  so  smooth  that  the  shafts  will 
not  catch  in  any  thing,  and  the  rider  has  the  prospect 
of  “ crossing  the  Jordan.” 

A rich,  stuffy  Chinaman,  weighing  about  two  hun- 
dred pounds,  dressed  in  a blue  silk  outer  shirt,  being 
conveyed  down  a steep  grade,  the  man  in  the  shafts 
stumbled  and  fell,  letting  loose  his  hold,  and  the  jin- 
rickshaw rolled  and  **  scooted”  over  the  pavement  at 
a breakneck  speed.  The  Chinaman  shouted  to  the 
bystanders,  mostly  Europeans,  who  were  laughing, 
Makee  stopee,”  and  growing  more  pressing  as 
the  wheels  rolled  on,  he  said,  “Won’t  you  makee 
stopee?”  The  ends  of  the  shafts,  shooting  over 


79 


the  smooth  road,  took  a Chinaman  who  was  carry- 
ing a pole  on  his  shoulder  with  ^wc  immense  buckets 
of  water,  one  at  each  end,  by  the  heels.  Over  he 
went  back  on  the  jinrickshaw,  emptying  one  bucket 
of  water  on  the  Chinaman  on  the  seat.  He  then 
rolled  over  on  the  side  of  the  road.  The  buckets 
went  thumping  down  the  hill;  the  wheels  of  the 
furious  machine  struck  a fruit  stand,  which  whirled 
it  around;  then  it  went  faster  backward,  until  it 
struck  a goods  box  on  a pavement  and  threw  the 
grand  Celestial  sprawling  in  the  dirt,  which  clung 
to  his  wet  clothes  until  he  was  hardly  recognizable 
as  the  man  riding  in  serenity  on  the  jinrickshaw. 
He  gathered  himself  up,  rubbing  the  place  most  ex- 
posed to  such  disasters,  looked  defiance  at  the  crowd 
that  laughed  at  him,  and  commenced  calling  for  the 
coolie  who  had  caused  his  discomfiture.  In  his  descent 
his  cue  had  parted,  the  artificial  end  with  the  ribbon 
tied  to  it  was  gone,  and  the  rest  flopped  around  his 
head  like  a hairless  calf  tail. 

As  usual,  surprising  beauty  and  moral  deformity 
dwell  together  in  Hong  Kong.  Every  conceivable 
form  of  sin  lives  and  thrives.  Gambling  is  a national 
passion.  Every  thing  is  pitted  that  can  be  matched 
for  a fight,  except  the  Chinaman  himself.  John  has 
no  appetite  for  the  manly  art  in  his  own  person. 
Gambling  was  too  strong  an  institution  to  be  sup- 
pressed, so  the  government  tried  to  regulate  it,  in  which 
it  was  about  as  successful  as  regulating  the  cholera. 
It  was  licensed,  and  brought  a revenue  of  fourteen 
thousand  dollars  monthly ; but  gambling  was  neither 
reduced  nor  regulated.  Another  unaccountable  phe* 
nomenon  appeared.  The  authorities  had  a conscience 
or  superstition  about  appropriating  these  funds,  and 


80 


some  had  the  transcendental  idea  of  emptying  them 
quietly  in  the  sea.  Public  opinion,  however,  put  a 
stop  to  the  license,  thinking  it  better  to  let  the  Chinese 
go  to  the  bad  than  to  join  them  and  go  with  them. 

Prostitution  is  simply  appalling.  It  has  baffled  the 
colonial  government  at  every  step.  Of  course,  there 
were  the  vulture  moralists  here,  who  would  propose  to 
taint  all  society  by  licensing  the  evil.  This  class  is 
easily  described,  if  decency  would  allow,  for  in  every 
community  they  are  well  marked.  Their  way  of  cur- 
ing social  vice  is  to  smear  it  over  the  faces  of  every 
community,  make  it  honorable,  and  render  the  whole 
community  responsible  for  it  and  then  debauch  the 
public  conscience  by  the  use  of  Its  abominable  gains. 
These  reformers  are  sometimes  found  in  the  medical 
profession,  men  who  ought  to  be  muzzled  like  curs  on 
dog-days  when  they  approach  homes  where  virtue 
dwells. 

This  picture  would  be  dark,  indeed,  if  there  were 
no  softening  lights  to  mitigate  it ; but  there  are  antag- 
onistic forces  in  active  operation.  There  are  public 
schools,  reformatories,  and  a new  college  is  in  process 
of  erection.  But  the  trouble  with  the  Chinese  popu- 
lation in  Hong  Kong  is  very  much  like  that  in  Cali- 
fornia, and  other  parts  of  the  United  States  where 
the  residence  is  only  transient.  The  Chinaman  is 
intent  on  making  money,  and  he  never  thinks  of 
enjoying  it  where  he  makes  it.  He  is  not  disposed 
to  care  much  for  his  moral  life,  especially  in  any 
place  which  he  is  not  to  make  his  home,  and  he  is, 
we  are  sorry  to  say,  not  alone  in  this  idea.  There 
are  plenty  of  church  members  in  the  cities  of  the 
United  States  quite  as  heathenish.  They  will  not 
take  their  certificate  from  the  churches  out  of  whose 


81 


bounds  they  are  moving  because  they  do  not  know 
just  where,  or  when,  they  will  locate.  Nor  will  they 
come  into  church  connection  where  they  are,  for  they 
do  not  know  how  long  they  will  stay.  So  they  sail 
on,  between  wind  and  weather,  until  death  comes,  and 
when  he  twists  them  hard  they  will  let  out  the  secret 
of  their  lives,  and  tell  that  their  church  and  marriage 
certificates  are  tied  together  with  the  locks  of  hair 
cut  from  the  heads  of  their  children,  all  safely  kept 
in  the  odor  of  camphor.  The  Chinese  in  cool  in- 
difference and  poetic  fancy  cannot  come  up  to  this 
semi- Christian  heathenism. 

Mission  work  has  been  carried  on  here  for  a long  time. 
Francis  Xavier  was  here  in  his  missionary  journeys. 

The  Roman  Catholic  Church  has  a considerable  fol- 
lowing among  the  natives — has  schools  and  itinerat- 
ing missionaries.  The  Church  of  England  has  also 
missions  and  schools  for  girls  and  boys,  and  Bible 
readers,  libraries.  Sabbath-schools,  sailors’  homes,  and 
its  labor  has  not  been  in  vain.  It  has  hundreds  of  \ 
followers  reclaimed  from  heathenism.  But  the  Church 
Missionary  Society  has  the  strongest  hold,  has  done 
the  best  work,  and  has  most  to  show  for  it.  Dr. 
Chalmers  directs  this  work.  He  has  been  long  in  the 
service  and  was  a long  time  in  Canton.  He  preaches  in 
what  is  known  as  the  Union  church,  which  is  the  wor- 
shipping place  of  all  dissenters,  and  of  many  who  are 
evangelical  in  the  Established  Church  of  England. 

The  building  is  large  and  is  one  of  the  imposing 
objects  in  the  city.  This  Society  has  several  native 
churches  and  mission  stations,  day  and  Sabbath- 
schools,  a large  female  seminary  and  an  advanced 
schooLfor  boys.  The  Basle  Mission  is  large  and  well- 
rooted  ; in  all  departments  of  work  among  the  natives 


82 


is  strong ; and  is  well  supplied  with  those  whose  lives 
are  consecrated. 

The  English  Wesleyans,  under  the  direction  of  Rev. 
Mr.  Turner,  are  patiently  sowing  and  waiting  for  their 
harvest,  which  will  come  as  surely  in  China  as  in 
America  or  Britain ; for  the  same  Lord  is  over  all, 
and  the  promises  as  well  as  the  power  by  which  they 
will  be  fulfilled  are  the  same.  The  American  Board 
has  a representative.  Rev.  Mr.  Hagar,  whose  work  is 
chiefly  in  the  country,  and  who  is  self-denying  even  to 
the  peril  of  his  health.  The  mission  cause  in  China  is 
not  an  experiment.  It  has  been  shown  too  often  for 
controversy,  except  with  those  wilfully  ignorant  and 
stupidly  unjust,  that  for  the  number  of  laborers  en- 
gaged and  money  expended  in  pushing  the  work  there 
are  as  many  brought  to  a saving  knowledge  of  Christ, 
with  all  the  disadvantages  of  heathenism  operating 
against  them,  as  either  in  Great  Britain  or  America. 
Of  course,  we  hear  the  clumsy  lies  about  the  worthless- 
ness of  missionary  eflfort  from  the  lips  of  a certain 
shallow  class,  which  say  that,  first,  one  eminent  mis- 
sionary, and  then  another,  has  soberly  declared  that 
he  never  knew  of  a converted  Chinaman ; and  when 
these  petty  gossips  are  pressed  for  the  names  of  these 
missionaries  in  one  city,  they  flee  to  another.  One  is 
constantly  reminded  of  a former  prevailing  inquiry  in 
the  South,  “ Did  you  ever  see  a dead  ass  ?”  and  we 
always  had  to  confess  ignorance  of  such  an  event. 
In  our  whole  life,  nearly  half  of  which  was  spent  in 
the  South,  we  never  saw  one,  and  yet  we  cannot 
get  over  the  impression  that  even  asses  are  not  exempt 
from  the  power  of  death. 

Another  of  these  falsehoods  is  the  story  of  a mis- 
sionary who  had  built  a church  and  wrote  home  that 


83 


there  were  some  materials  left,  and  asked  permis- 
sion to  build  a house  for  himself,  and  when  it  was  done 
it  was  a palace,  while  the  church  was  not  better  than 
a cow  stall.  We  have  been  in  sharp  search  after 
that  man — he  was  heard  of  in  India— but  neither  that 
man  nor  the  house  could  be  found ; he  was  pursued 
over  into  Ceylon,  but  no  such  man  nor  house  could 
be  found  there,  and  then  he  was  followed  to  Burmah 
and  Siam,  and  now  we  are  after  him  in  China.  We 
have  had  his  name  and  city  mentioned  several  times, 
but  our  quest  has  been  all  in  vain.  The  man  and  his 
deeds  are  ubiquitous,  and  but  for  the  silly  fools  who 
serve  the  devil  in  chasing  his  ghost  no  such  imagina- 
tion could  ever  exist. 

The  people  who  give  the  information  to  the  travelling 
public  are  usually  fast  young  men,  captains  of  steamers, 
dragomen  and  guides,  army  and  navy  officers,  vaga- 
bond English  and  American  Consuls,  &c.  Strange 
to  say,  these  stories  carry  more  weight  than  the  tes- 
timonies of  the  most  reputable  Consuls  and  Ministers 
of  both  countries  and  of  men  who  have  visited  these 
stations  and  have  examined  them  thoroughly.  W e have 
seen  hundreds  of  converted  Chinese  people.  We  have 
seen  their  sacrifices  in  supporting  their  churches. 
Their  contributions  to  benevolence,  according  to  their 
ability,  would  shame  multitudes  of  church  members 
at  home.  We  have  seen  men  who  were  once  in  prison 
cages  waiting  execution  for  their  faith,  and  were  released 
through  the  influence  of  an  United  States  Consul,  and 
are  now  active  workers  and  givers  in  the  church.  We 
have  heard  them  in  prayer;  have  seen  a Chinese 
preacher  carried  about  in  his  chair  a hopeless  para- 
lytic, spending  his  very  feebleness  in  his  Master’s  ser- 
vice, and  have  seen,  too,  the  graves  of  those  who  have 


84 


died  for  the  faith.  It  will,  therefore,  require  more 
than  migratory  rumors  of  peripatetic  “ lalagags’^  to 
convince  us  that  there  are  no  converted  Chinamen. 

One  of  our  United  States  Ministers,  Hon,  Charles 
Denby,  at  Pekin,  says  : 

‘‘  I have  made  it  my  business  to  visit  every  mission 
in  the  open  ports  of  China.  This  inspection  has  satis- 
fied me  that  the  missionaries  deserve  all  possible  re- 
spect, encouragement  and  consideration.  I find  no 
fault  with  them  except  excessive  zeal.  Civilization 
owes  them  a vast  debt.  They  have  been  the  educa- 
tors, physicians  and  almoners  of  the  Chinese.  All 
over  China  they  have  schools,  colleges  and  hospitals. 
They  were  the  early  and  only  translators,  interpreters 
and  writers  of  Chinese.  To  them  we  owe  our  diction- 
aries, histories  and  translations  of  Chinese  works. 
They  have  scattered  the  Bible  broadcast,  and  have 
prepared  many  school  books  in  Chinese.  Commerce 
and  civilization  follow  where  these  unselfish  pioneers 
have  blazed  the  way.  Leaving  all  religious  questions 
out  of  consideration,  humanity  must  honor  a class 
which,  for  no  pay,  or  very  inadequate  pay,  devotes 
itself  to  charity  and  philanthropy.  Entertaining 
these  views,  it  has  afforded  me  pleasure  to  assist  the 
missionaries  in  every  way  that  was  consistent  with 
public  duty.’’ 

The  worst  enemies  that  Christianity  has  in  China 
are  the  European  officials  and  business  men,  many 
of  whom  are  living  lives  of  unblushing  shame  with  the 
Chinese  women.  They  have  families  born  out  of  wed- 
lock, and  some  dishonor  their  homes  and  wrong  the  wives 
of  their  youth  by  relations  that  they  do  not  even  take 
the  trouble  to  hide.  One  prominent  European  firm 
will  not  permit  the  young  men  in  its  employ  to 


85 


marry,  and  the  disastrous  results  are  everywhere  to  be 
seen  in  these  disgraceful  relations.  The  pressure  of 
this  class  is  so  great  that  it  is  a crucial  trial  for  a 
young  man  to  resist  their  machinations  to  bring  him 
into  the  same  condemnation. 

We  do  not  mean  even  to  intimate  that  there  are 
not  honorable  exceptions,  but  one  with  long  experi- 
ence said  sadly,  “ They  are  in  the  minority.”  All  of 
the  former  class  are  hostile  to  missions  and  mission 
work,  because  both  are  hostile  to  their  lives  and  con- 
demn them  without  the  utterance  of  a word;  they 
hate  them  as  the  disfigured  face  hates  the  mirror. 
There  is  another  fact  in  this  connection  necessary  to 
the  formation  of  a proper  estimate  of  the  cause  of 
this  vile  opposition.  Chinese  in  cities,  who  have 
been  brought  into  contact  with  Europeans  in  trade,, 
are  worse  in  character  and  harder  to  influence  than 
are  those  in  the  country  away  from  these  corrupting 
surroundings.  The  latter  have  more  manhood  left  to 
them,  are  more  truthful,  honest  and  chaste,  and  more 
accessible  to  the  gospel.  The  country  work  is  more 
prosperous  in  proportion  to  the  time  and  labor  ex- 
pended. It  is  true  that  when  men  do  come  to  the 
side  of  truth  in  the  city  they  become  stronger  in 
Christian  character,  for  they  have  more  temptations, 
and  there  can  be  no  great  virtue  without  temptation. 
But  it  also  shows  that  bad  European  example  has 
made  them  worse  men  than  they  would  have  been 
of  themselves.  The  aborigines  in  the  interior  who 
were  the  original  inhabitants  before  the  country  was 
overrun  by  the  people  of  northern  regions,  the  last 
of  whom  was  the  present  Tartar  dynasty,  are  a larger 
race,  of  more  symmetrical  features,  and  of  a darker 
color,  have  better  elements  of  moral  character,  and 


88 


receive  the  missionaries  with  the  greatest  kindness 
and  good  will.  Though  there  is  yet  no  organized 
work  among  them,  they  are  ready  to  accept  teachers, 
and  the  field  ought  to  be  immediately  occupied. 

CHAPTER  IX. 

IK  CHINA-LAND. 

IT  seems  like  the  materialization  of  a dream,  here 
in  Canton,  in  the  last  days  of  December,  amid 
the  glories  of  a summer  foliage,  the  weather  delight- 
fully cool,  but  warm  enough  to  sustain  a luxuriant 
vegetation.  This  city  is  reached  by  a night’s  travel 
from  Hong  Kong  in  a steamboat  not  unlike  the  float- 
ing palaces  from  New  York  to  Albany,  while  the  dis- 
tance is  about  the  same.  The  scenery  along  the  Pearl 
river  is  peculiar,  prepared  for  Chinese  alone,  or,  may 
be,  it  has  prepared  the  Chinese.  They  look  like  their 
country  and  their  country  looks  like  them.  They  have, 
no  doubt,  mutually  conformed  to  each  other.  Along 
the  river  is  a level  plain  extending  back  from  half  a 
mile  to  a mile.  When  the  tide  is  up  there  are  no 
perceptible  banks,  but  back  of  these  plains  on  each 
side  are  wavy-looking  sand  hills,  the  product  of  the 
sea,  no  doubt,  in  past  ages.  The  hills  look  like  the 
wide-brimmed,  bell-crowned,  peaked-topped  Chinese 
hats  in  the  spelling  books  of  our  childhood.  They 
are  usually  covered  with  grass  and  other  vegetation 
to  the  top,  and  some  of  them  are  quite  high.  The 
plains  are  well-tilled,  and  farming  does  not  seem  much 
different  from  European  countries. 

Coming  out  of  Hong  Kong  the  steamer  traverses  the 
bay  of  the  Lonely  Isle,  through  the  Tiger  Gate,  up 


87 


the  beautiful  watery  expanse  of  the  Pearl  river,  and 
in  sight  of  broad  rice  fields,  banana  plantations,  often 
fringing  the  river  banks,  past  the  historic  Whampoa, 
the  key  to  Canton  through  quiet  centuries,  once  the 
key  to  the  sealed  Empire,  and  then  the  towers  of 
the  city  of  Rams  come  into  sight. 

On  the  river  all  about,  Chinese  junks  are  constantly 
in  sight,  crazy-looking  crafts  turned  up  at  each  end, 
resting  on  what  seems  to  be  a flat  bottom,  and  worked 
by  long  oars  at  the  stern,  which  serve  the  purpose  in 
ordinary  cases  of  both  helm  and  propulsion,  worked 
by  a process  which  might  be  called  sculling.  These 
contrivances  can  live  at  sea,  because  the  Chinese 
are  remarkable  boatmen,  and  boatwomen  too,  for  the 
women  are  as  skilful  and  daring  as  the  men.  This 
will  not  be  surprising  when  it  is  known  that  families 
are  born  on  board  of  these  boats  of  every  kind  and 
size,  live  on  them,  die  on  them,  and  are  buried  from 
them.  In  Canton  alone  three  hundred  thousand  live 
in  these  queer  vessels.  They  are  not  often  away  from 
them ; are  always  bare-footed ; and  the  women  manage 
the  boats.  The  old  mother,  seventy  years  old,  is 
commander  of  the  craft.  Her  son  and  daughter-in- 
law  and  their  children  all  work,  but  she  makes  the 
bargains,  receives  the  money,  gives  commands,  and 
pulls  on  one  of  the  oars  until  it  bends  with  her  force. 
Again  and  again  have  women  of  seventy  managed  a 
small  ship,  and  with  old  hands  and  bare  feet  have 
been  nimble  in  getting  about,  doing  any  thing  need- 
ful to  be  done. 

A man  fifty  years  old,  soliciting  passengers,  said  to 
a lady  about  to  embark  in  his  boat,  “ Do  you  see  that 
woman ; that’s  my  mother.  She  is  eighty  years  old 
and  manages  this  boat.”  Every  member  of  the 


88 


family  sleeps  on  the  hard  board  benches  on  the  sides 
and  on  the  seats.  There  are  no  beds,  not  even  for 
the  old  woman,  and  cooking  and  ail  else  pertain- 
ing to  life  is  done  in  a space  not  six  feet  square  in 
a craft  not  larger  than  an  ordinary  life-boat.  Over 
the  middle  is  a bamboo  covering.  The  mother 
has  her  babe  set  astride  her  back  above  che 
hips  and  a shawl  or  some  other  bandage  round 
it,  enclosing  his  body  from  the  feet  to  the  waist. 
With  this  protuberance,  which  she  does  not  seem  to 
notice,  she  steers  and  pulls  at  the  oars,  the  little  fellow 
swinging  backward  and  forwai  d with  the  movements 
of  her  body.  She  stoops  over  the  edge  of  the  boat 
to  dip  water  or  wades  into  the  water  to  push  the  boat 
off,  and  the  little  fellow  holds  to  her  dress  with 
his  hands  and  looks  around  on  the  world  in  an  in- 
vestigating way,  hardly  ever  crying,  and  doing  his 
part  in  the  battle  of  life  manfully. 

The  baby  is  sometimes  seen  on  the  back  of  a daugh- 
ter not  of  greater  age  than  seven  or  eight,  and  she 
carries  it  about  on  the  boat  and  rows,  or  does  what- 
ever is  necessary  with  it  on  her  back  just  as  the 
mother  would  do. 

There  is  a passenger  boat  which  is  peculiar  to 
China.  It  is  a stern-wheeler  about  as  large  as  some 
of  the  smaller  boats  on  the  Ohio,  of  the  class  de- 
scribed as  “built  to  run  on  the  dew.”  These  are 
propelled  by  about  twenty  men  on  a tread  wheel, 
holding  to  a bar  in  front  of  them,  with  their  feet 
employed  in  an  exercise  not  much  harder  than  walk- 
ing. They  force  the  boat  along,  with  fifty  or  more 
passengers,  or  light  freight,  at  a speed  of  from  six 
to  eight  miles  an  hour. 

There  are  also  floating  restaurants,  propelled  by  man- 


89 


power,  to  which  a Chinaman  brings  his  friends  to  en- 
tertain them,  his  home  accommodations  often  being 
no  more  ample  than  he  and  his  family  can  occupy 
when  they  stretch  out  for  sleep,  and  sometimes  they 
have  to  take  up  a joint  or  two  as  a lady  ^ doubles  the 
handle  of  her  parasol.  These  are  gaudily  painted, 
according  to  native  taste.  There  are  boats  for  mar- 
riage ceremonies  and  festivities,  filled  with  crystal 
chandeliers,  gay  trappings  and  tasteful  furniture; 
are  are  engaged  for  the  guests  and  furnished  with 
provisions  according  to  financial  ability,  taste  and 
position. 

As  the  tourist  nears  Canton  the  pagodas  come  into 
the  range  of  vision.  Not  far  from  shore  there  are 
two  of  them  which  are  about  as  high  as  lighthouses  on 
the  ocean  coast,  and  ornamented  by  lines  of  bal- 
conies around  them.  Most  of  them  are  rapidly  going 
into  decay,  as  is  the  religious  system  of  which  they  are 
an  outcome ; the  object  in  having  them  is  luck.  They 
have  the  nine  chambers  of  the  delights  of  Buddha, 
a paradisiacal  representation  and  contrivance  on  earth 
for  the  promotion  of  general  prosperity.  The  greatest 
care  is  taken  in  their  location,  as  a failure  would  bring 
everlasting  disaster.  A young  man,  who  had  gradu- 
ated and  taken  his  degree,  bright,  and  up  in  modern 
science,  &c.,  declared,  with  the  greatest  seriousness,  that 
the  cause  of  the  general  decay  of  his  native  city  was 
owing  to  a mislocation  of  the  city  pagoda.  Their  theory 
of  the  earth’s  formation  represents  it  as  a dragon ; the 
soil  the  accummulations  on  his  back,  and  the  place  for 
the  pagoda  is  over  his  eyes.  Our  informant  said  that 
on  more  careful  investigation  of  the  conformation  of 
the  ground  for  the  purpose  of  relocating  the  pagoda 
in  question  at  a place  where  prosperity  would  come, 


the  investigators  found  the  eyes  of  the  dragon  and 
had  cleaned  them  out ; and  though  the  pagoda  had  not 
yet  been  removed,  such  was  the  resulting  favor  that 
two  men  that  year  from  his  city  had  taken  degrees  in. 
the  University,  an  event  that  had  not  occurred  before 
in  his  memory.  This  will  show  the  value  of  merely 
secular  education  in  freeing  the  mind  from  its  super- 
stitious servitude.  This  is  civilization  without  God. 

Another  illustration  of  this  superstition  is  in  the' 
case  of  a missionary,  who  had  completed  a chapel, 
when  the  wiseacres  discovered  that  it  was  located  on 
the  back  of  the  dragon,  and,  being  at  this  point,  it 
would  tickle  him  where  he  could  not  scratch,  and 
would  result  in  his  kicking  at  one  end  or  the  other, 
thus  bringing  disaster  on  the  community.  They  urged 
him  to  remove  it,  which  he  was  not  disposed  to  do,. 
saying  he  was  not  afraid  of  the  dragon ; but  the 
Chinese  tore  it  into  fragments. 

At  first  glance  Canton  looks  like  an  aggregation 
of  huts,  for  such  they  are  that  fringe  the  shores  of  the 
river,  and,  stranger  than  all,  between  these  wooden 
shanties  and  the  river  are  hay  and  straw  stacks  set 
upon  stakes,  or  piles.  The  first  impression  is  ugly ; 
its  name  and  fame  have  deceived  the  world;  only 
here  and  there  an  attractive  object  lifts  its  head, 
among  which  is  the  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral,  which 
they  have  been  building  since  before  the  downfall  of 
Napoleon  III.,  who  was  a large  contributor.  It  has 
received  yet  little  more  than  an  external  completion. 
After  the  boat  is  left  the  impression  of  ages  reaches 
one  through  the 'nose  and  convinces  him  that  this  is 
China.  The  surly  remark  made  by  Johnson  when 
he  with  Boswell  was  going  for  the  first  time  through 
the  narrow  streets  intersecting  High  street,  Edin- 


91 


burgh,  after  a few  moments  silence  was,  “We  are  all 
right,  Boswell ; ‘ I smell  you,’  ” meaning  the  Scotch 
in  him.  So  China  takes  hold  of  the  visitor  first  by 
the  nose. 

There  is  no  hotel,  even  endurable,  for  Europeans  in 
Canton ; but  upon  the  steamboat  from  Hong  Kong' 
travellers  can  sleep  and  be  accommodated  by  chang- 
ing from  one  boat  to  another  every  day,  or  from 
the  boat  going  out  to  the  one  last  in  port,  or  they 
must  be  dependent  on  the  hospitalities  of  friends. 
This  was  kindly  tendered  us  by  the  Kev.  B.  C. 
Henry  at  the  missionary  compound,  where  we  had  the 
great  pleasure  of  becoming  acquainted  wit^h  his  wife, 
the  daughter  of  one  of  our  Professors  in  college  days. 
Professor  Snyder.  In  the  home  of  these  delightful 
friends  time  slipped  by  quite  unconsciously.  But  such 
hospitality  is  becoming  a burden  to  the  missionaries. 
They  do  not  complain  when  only  a few  come,  who  are 
interested  in  their  work.  It  was  great  pleasure  to 
them,  but  to  have  to  furnish  hotel  accommodations 
for  all  kinds  of  people  possessed  to  go  round  the 
world  will  be  an  intolerable  nuisance,  and  they  either 
must  have  an  increase  of  salary,  or  there  must  be  a 
hotel  in  Canton.  The  latter  is  the  easiest  and  most 
becoming  solution  to  all  concerned  except  to  vagrant 
cranks,  whose  creed  is  that  the  earth  is  the  Lord’s  and 
the  fullness  thereof,  and  that  they  are  without  doubt 
the  Lord’s  own.  What  is  true  in  this  respect"  of 
Canton  is  more  or  less  true  of  all  the  missionary 
stations  on  the  lines  of  travel. 

. The  city  of  Rams  has  a birth-history  which  may  be 
of  interest.  The  most  veracious  account  is  that  five 
genii  came  to  this  locality  astride  of  so  many  horned 
rams,  and  located  the  city  and  predicted  its  prosperity 


92 


and  then  disappeared.  The  rams  were  turned  into 
stone,  and  are  preserved  in  a heathen  temple,  and 
can  be  seen  by  the  aid  of  two  senses,  to  wit,  credul- 
ity and  imagination.  We  can  trace  the  strange 
origin  no  further  than  to  suggest  that  the  peculiar 
hostihty  of  the  Chinese  to  all  foreigners  may  be 
the  result  of  this  original  ramgenic  founding  of 
the  city,  for  which  there  is  a slang  word  in  America 
called  “Rambunctiousness.”  But  Canton  can  only 
be  seen  as  the  brain  of  a great  body,  and  a bird’s  eye 
glance  at  least  must  be  taken  of  its  surroundings. 

Fifteen  miles  to  the  east  is  the  great  river-mart  of 
Fatshan,  the  Birmingham  of  China,  with  a population 
of  a half  million,  the  home  of  almost  every  industry 
of  the  great  Empire.  Beyond,  on  the  northern  side, 
is  the  great  Delta,  formed  by  the  union  and  division 
of  the  waters  of  three  great  rivers  flowing  into  the 
sea  to  the  south.  This  Delta,  with  the  exception  of 
Egypt,  is  one  of  the  most  fertile  and  remarkable  on 
the  earth,  and  is  better  tilled  than  that  of  Egypt. 
The  Pearl  river  bounds,  on  the  east  and  north,  about 
one  hundred  miles  of  territory,  which  is  skirted  on 
the  west  by  the  West  river,  about  eighty  miles  long, 
while  the  base  side  of  the  Delta  is  on  the  sea. 
The  most  of  this  is  plain,  some  parts  hilly,  some 
marshy,  some  table  land,  but  much  is  within  reach  of 
the  tides,  which  enrich  it  every  day.  Here  are  great 
rice  fields,  which  yield  two  harvests  each  year,  and 
between  them  vegetable  crops  may  be  grown.  The 
western  portion  is  given  up  to  the  cultivation  of  mul- 
berry trees,  the  leaves  of  which  are  for  the  sustenance 
of  the  silk  worm  and  his  golden  threads.  These 
shrubs  yield  a fresh  supply  of  leaves  every  forty  days, 
and  are  stripped  six  times  a year,  and  produce  in 


93 


value  from  fifty  cents  to  three  dollars  for  every  one 
hundred  and  thirty-three  and  one-third  pounds. 

This  Delta  is  like  Holland  in  its  water  intersections, 
though  here  they  are  natural  channels.  By  these  the 
whole  country  can  be  easily  and  cheaply  visited.  It 
contains  seven  cities  of  over  one  hundred  thousand 
population  each,  and  as  many  more  of  fifty  thousand, 
with  towns  and  villages  ranging  from  this  down  to  a 
thousand  or  less.  In  the  silk  district  is  Kon  Kong, 
which  contains  one  million  or  more  of  population; 
Lung  Shan  and  Lung  Kong  having  several  hundreds 
ot  thousands.  ■ In  the  south  are  Wong-lien,  Lak-low 
and  Korn-chuk,  well-known  by  silk  dealers,  having 
fifty  thousand  inhabitants  each.  These  are  but  dots 
of  the  moving  life  on  this  broad  expanse,  and  must 
suffice  to  give  some  idea  of  the  vital  force  and  com- 
mercial advantages  of  Canton  and  explain  how  in  its 
broad  river  boats  are  jamming  against  each  other 
from  morning  unto  morning  day  and  night  through. 

Canton  has  a population  of  one  million  and  a half ; 
three  hundred  thousand  persons  live  in  boats.  The 
city  is  a strange  affair;  life  is  rolling  over  itself 
day  and  night;  it  is  life  in  the  smallest  packages  from 
childhood  and  in  the  smallest  possible  spaces.  The 
streets  are  not  more  than  eight  feet  wide ; the  boule- 
vards may  be  twelve.  No  wheels  ever  trundle  over 
its  streets ; all  life  either  trots  on  its  own  legs,  or  is 
carried  on  the  legs  of  others  between  two  poles  rest- 
ing on  the  shoulders  of  moving  pillars  of  society. 
This  is,  perhaps,  the  most  religious  people,  after  its 
own  fashion,  in  the  world.  Every  place  big  enough 
for  a Chinaman  to  turn  his  feet  has  a shrine,  and  offer- 
ings are  burnt  every  day,  and  by  many  all  through 
the  day ; the  smoke  of  incense  is  literally  ascending 


94 


forever  and  ever.  More  than  two  hundred  millions  are 
spent  yearly  in  worship,  and  eighty  millions  alone  in 
ancestral  piety.  The  apostle  could  have,  with  greater 
force,  exclaimed,  as  he  did  in  Athens,  “ Chinaman,  I 
perceive  that  in  all  things  ye  are  religious  over  much.” 
Little  incense  sticks  are  made  of  the  dust  of  sandal  wood, 
and  it  would  be  hard  to  find  a spot  where  they  are 
not  burning,  sputtering,  or  where  the  ashes  of  those 
burnt  may  not  be  found  on  the  streets,  in  the  houses, 
stores,  shops,  boats,  windows ; wherever  one  can  be 
set  down,  it  consumes  itself  into  the  smoke  and  ashes 
of  worship  to  some  'unknown  vagary  of  a supersti- 
tious imagination. 

The  city  of  Canton  has  a strange  combination  of 
oldness  with  newness,  the  latter  trying  to  push  the  old 
into  the  grave;  while  the  old,  with  its  greater  force, 
but  with  stiffened  limbs  and  rickety  joints,  resists. 

, America  is  here  with  its  young  life,  doing  its  share 
in  trying  to  bury  old  China.  American  clocks  have 
come  to  stay — they  are  everywhere — and  American 
oil  and  lamps  are  giving  light  to  the  world.  More 
light  comes  from  America  than  from  the  heavenly 
bodies,  the  sun  and  meon  excepted.  The  Chinese 
are  well  up  in  the  popular  virtues  and  in  their  pro- 
clamation. They  have  no  large  dailies  in  which  to 
advertise  their  liberality,  but  they  accomplish  the 
same  end  by  placarding  it  on  a street  known  as 
Benevolence  Street,  where  there  is  a temple  for  gen- 
eral traffic  in  benevolence.  A certain  amount  given 
to  any  benevolent  object  entitles  a man  to  be  posted 
in  the  subscription  of  his  class.  The  lowest  amount, 
we  believe,  is  one  dollar,  which  is  rather  higher  than 
with  us,  for  we  have  known  people  to  get  their  names 
and  praises  into  the  great  dailies  and  the  religious 


95 


weeklies  for  less  than  a dollar,  and  often  for  no  con- 
tribution of  their  own,  making  their  reputations  on 
the  judicious  use  of  other  people’s  money. 

We  passed  snlall  gambling  tables,  at  which  Budd- 
hist priests  were  taking  a hand,  suggestive  of  the 
fact  that  the  ways  of  men  repeat  themselves  the 
world  over,  for  this  .frequently  appears  among 
Koman  Catholic  priests,  who,  if  they  are  at  a water- 
ing-place, and  there  is  a raffle  or  a horse  ra<;e, 
or  any  thing  they  can  bet  on,  usually  take  a hand. 
Qnly  lately  is  it  that  similar  betting  has  been  carried 
on  in  Catholic  and  at  some  Protestant  fairs  unrebuked, 
in  another  prominent  Protestant  church  dancing  is 
now  sanctioned  to  increase  the  resources  of  a hospital. 
Getting  money  for  religious  purposes  by  trickery  is 
also  practised  in  China,  and  is  as  reverently  con- 
ducted by  the  heathen  as  by  his  more  modern  imitator, 
the  Christian. 

It  was  a suggestion  of  a knowing  one  that  the  re- 
ligions in  the  city  should  be  “ done  up”  first,  and  so 
the  temple  of  Buddha  with  its  five  hundred  gods  was 
visited  by  us.  These  are  modern , specimens  of  the 
regulation  patterns,  who  slipped  on  the  last  round  of 
the  ladder  of  Buddhistic  perfection  and  could  not 
enter  the  eternal  felicity  of  their  great  head,  and  who 
had,  therefore,  the  task  of  sitting  in  the  temple 
without  the  poor  privilege  of  changing  their ' posi- 
tion, and  they,  like  those  sitting  for  pictures  accord- 
ing to  photographic  art  in  times  of  yore,  are  not  per- 
mitted to  think  lest  they  spoil  their  pictures.  They 
are  a weary-looking  lot  of  defuncts. 

There  are  a million  of  temples  in  China  which 
have  cost  more  than  one  thousand  dollars  each, 
or  one  thousand  million  dollars  in  temple  property.. 


96 


The  best  key  to  a city  or  country  is  found  in  its  re- 
ligious belief,  for  this  will  run  as  a chain  in  the 
fabric  through  the  whole  national  character.  Accord- 
ingly we  will  now  indicate,  at  least,  the  direction  of 
religious  thought  in  China.  Confucianism  is  in  its 
primal  condition,  Confucius,  who  has  had  such  uni- 
versal sway,  was  born  551  B.  C.  From  childhood 
he  showed  that  seriousness  which  is  the  result  of 
thoughtfulness.  After  the  death  of  his  mother,  when 
he  was  twenty-four  years  old,  he  retired  to  a medita- 
tive life.  Three  years  of  this  seclusion  wire  devoted 
to  study  in  ancient  recorded  thought ; he  became  an 
enthusiast  in  this  kind  of  lore.  He  took  up  the  study 
of  government  or  politics,  and  in  pointing  out  a 
course  to  be  pursued,  truthful  and  just,  he  fortified 
his  position  by  noble  examples,  which  he  urged  upon 
the  rulers  of  his  day  as  models.  He  became  a famous 
teacher.  Pupils  waited  on  his  instruction  from  all 
parts  of  the  empire.  When  fifty-two  years  old  he  had 
the  opportunity  to  show  that  his  theories  of  govern- 
ment could  be  made  practical.  He  was  made  a 
magistrate  of  Chung*Tu,  which  he  held  for  three 
years,  directing  its  affairs,  judicial  and  administra- 
tive, with  so  much  ability  that  his  district  became  a 
model  for  the  Empire. 

The  men  of  his  day  did  not  to  any  extent  appre- 
ciate him,  and  many  assailed  him  in  his  most  unsel- 
fish endeavors,  but  this  is  an  inevitable  result  to  any 
one  thinking  a thousand  years  beyond  his  time.  His 
treatises. and  rulings  Were  political,  judicial,  adminis- 
trative, and  contained  a system  of  practical  ethics  con- 
cerning man’s  life  and  its  relations,  in  lime  alone. 
He  had  no  conception  of  another  life,  and  gave  no 
clear  opinions  concerning  it.  ' His  golden  rule  is 


97 


reciprocity.  His  philosophy  requires  subordination  to 
superiors,  and  kind  and  upright  dealings  with  men. 
He  had  an  ideal  which  he  constantly  held  up  before 
his  followers,  in  the  form  of  a princely  scholar,  a being 
pure,  unselfish,  dignified,  just,  manly,  beneficent,  the 
embodiment  of  all  virtues.  He  was  not  original, 
or  a projector  of  any  thing  new,  but  rather  a 
collator  of  what  was  already  in  the  world,  which 
means  he  secured  for  them  greater  supremacy  over 
the  minds  of  men.i  He  approached  to  the  con- 
ception of  what  is  now  in  all  systems  regarded,  a 
fact,  to  wit,  conscience.  The  power  of  his  system 
in  the  world  is  largely  due  to  this  fact;  which  is 
evidenced  in  its  echoes  ever  since,  in  tones 'louder 
or  weaker,  in  the  lives  and  conduct  of  the  people. 
His  practical  ethics  are  contained  in  the  five  relations 
and  five  virtues  existing  between  the  prince  and  his 
minister,  the  father  and  son,  husband  and  wife,  elder 
and  younger  brothers  and  friends.  These  five  virtues 
are  arranged  under  the  distinctions  of  humanity, 
righteousness,  propriety,  knowledge,  fidelity.  Hu- 
manity is  a fundamental  virtue.  This  includes  the 
relations  between  man  and  man,  without  which  there 
may  be  superior  men,  while  none  can  be  inferior 
with  it.  Righteousness  is  put  in  contrast  with  sel- 
fishness, while  virtue  is  exalted  righteousness.  Pro- 
priety is  the  mode  or  modes  in  which  righteous- 
ness becomes  practical.  “ The  virtues  are  coiiipleted 
by  propriety.”  Knowledge  is  alone  practical  by  his 
definition,  is  confined  to  men  and  things,  and  embraces 
three  particulars,  knowledge  of  one’s  destiny,  of  the 
rules  of  propriety  and  eloquence  of  expression.”  Here 
a glint  of  moral  light  shines  across  that  which  has 
only  been  earthly:  “mere  knowledge  is  useless,  and 


98 


pel  feet  knowledge  should  be  followed  by  the  choice 
of  that  which  is  good.’’  Faith  is  limited  to  social 
confidence.  The  other  books  of  Confucius  are  largely 
elaborations,  and  some  of  them  merely  contain  the 
commentaries  and  opinions  of  others,  which  are  in  our 
day  of  no  practical  advantage,  and  not  worth  the 
space  they  would  occupy. 

His  system  has  worn  out  of  every  thing  but  one 
book,  and  the  memories  of  the  Chinese.  It  has  no 
practical  control  in  their  lives,  and  is  only  an  ancient 
ornament  in  the  Empire.  It  fetters  living  thought, 
and  bandages  their  minds,  as  tyrannical  and  sense- 
less custom  does  their  women’s  feet.  It  has  made  all 
social  relations  artificial,  and  has  strangled  “ the  recip- 
rocity” which  its  framer  gave  as  the  golden  rule.  His 
great  name  lives,  but  his  virtues  are  consigned  to 
oblivion.  His  teachings  are  the  coverings  cast  over 
hypocrisy,  injustice,  oppression  and  lust.  China  has 
faced  about  since  his  time,  and  now  stands  with  her 
back  to  the  great  future.  Ancestral  worship  is  now 
the  only  vital  conception  in  his  system.  There  are 
in  China  one  thousand,  five  hundred  and  sixty  Con- 
fucian  temples  where  his  name  is  worshipped  while 
his  teachings  are  dishonored.  The  religious  outcome 
of  the  system  is  Atheism,  Materialism  and  Agnosti- 
cism. Men  who  laugh  at  idols  have  yet  a conviction 
that  custom  compels  them  to  get  on  all  fours  in  a 
worship  which  they  despise.  What  is  the  value  of  a 
religion  that  neither  inspires  nor  braces  courage  ? 

Some  explanation  of  Chinese  Buddhism,  those 
features  of  it,  at  least,  that  are  peculiar  to  China, 
may  here  be  noted.  The  history  of  Buddha  has 
been  given  in  connection  with  the  temple  service  and 
doctrines  of  the  people  in  India,  and  it  does  not 


99 


need  to  be  repeated.  The  propelling  power  in  Bud- 
dhism from  the  beginning  has  been  its  propagandism. 
It  was  a missionary  religion;  it  took  root  by  this 
means  in  Ceylon,  Burmah  and  Siam. 

Northern  Buddhism  extended  first  to  Nepaul,  then 
to  Thibet,  China,  Mongolia,  Japan  and  Corea,  using  the 
Sanscrit  as  the  vehicle  of  its  thoughts  and  life.  The 
report  of  its  introduction  to  China  is  decidedly  mythical. 
The  Emperor  of  the  time,  Hang-Ming-Ti,  had  a won- 
derful vision,  the  central  object  of  which  was  a golden 
image  whose  head  was  within  a halo,  which  entered  his 
palace.  The  Emperor  took  counsel  as  to  the  interpreta- 
tion of  such  a dream.  His  brother.  Prince  Tso,  who 
had  given  some  attention  to  the  religion  which  had 
spread  with  such  rapidity  in  the  West,  said  the  vision 
concerned  Buddha.  An  embassy  was  sent  to  verify 
the  suggestion ; it  was  absent  for  years,  and  when  it 
returned  brought  a sandal-wood  image  of  the  golden 
one  seen  in  the  dream,  one  book  and  a Hindu  priest. 
So  this  system  began,  but  it  was  slow  work;  and  for 
three  hundred  years  the  people  had  only  one  book. 
But  about  two  centuries  later  eighteen  missionaries 
came,  whose  images  now  are  seen  in  more  than  one 
thousand  temples.  There  were  at  one  time  three 
thousand  Buddhist  missionaries  in  China.  The  system 
was  pushed  but  was  not  a success ; its  roots  did  not 
sink  deep  enough  in  Chinese  thought  to  secure  univer- 
sal conquest. 

Chinese  Buddhism  is  a system  of  moral  servitude ; 
subtle,  tenacious  and  degrading.  Jt  may  be,  in  some 
features,  a repetition  of  what  has  been  already  said, 
but  in  its  Chinese  relations  this  is  necessary  to  a 
clear  understanding  of  the  subject.  Its  first  postulate 
is  that  misery  is  the  result  of  sentient  existence; 


100 


second,  the  accumulation  of  misery  is  caused  by 
desire;  third,  the  extinction  of  desire  is  possible; 
fourth,  there  is  a path  which  leads  to  that  extinc- 
tion. This  involves  the  suppression  of  desire  as 
being  the  author  of  misery,  or  the  gradual  annihilation 
of  life,  or  its  absorption  in  the  great  void  of  non-exist- 
ence. Its  highest  development  is  found  in  the  so- 
called  Buddhist  trinity  known  as  the  “ Precious  Ones.’’ 
A temple  dedicated  to  this  trinity  was  visited ; at  the 
entrance  stood  two  gigantic  images  of  terra  cottar  found 
almost  universally  in  these  temple  portals.  They  are 
sentinels.  They  are  as  ugly  in  disproportionate  fea- 
tures as  one  could  conceive,  whose  object  was  to  em- 
body the  traditional  raw  head  and  bloody  bones 
spectre  to  scare  children.  The  temple  is  of  the 
Pagoda  style ; the  ends  of  the  corners  being  turned  up 
scroll-fashion.  The  building  externally  is  contempti- 
ble, but  covers  a great  space ; perhaps,  with  its  clois- 
ters for  its  priests  and  other  buildings,  its  gardens  of 
fruits  and  flowers  extends  over  at  least  ten  acres,  in 
the  heart  of  Canton.  Within,  at  the  altar,  are  the 
great  terra  cotta  images,  gilded  and  painted,  of  the 
“ Three  Precious  Ones,”  the  past,  present  aod  future 
Buddhas.  Their  forms  are  nearly  thirty  feet  high  and 
from  eight  to  ten  feet  in  diameter.  Their  names,  in 
Sanscrit,  are  Buddha,  Dharma  and  Lenga.  The  flrst 
Buddha  is  represented  as  he  existed,  as  personified 
intelligence ; the  second,  is  the  law  of  religion  estab- 
lished by  him ; and  the  third,  is  the  practical  result  oi 
the  two — that  is,  the  priesthood,  central  to  their  idea 
of  a church. 

The  ten  commandments  of  Buddha  run  thus:  1. 
Against  killing ; 2.  Stealing;  3.  Adultery;  4.  Lying; 
5.  Wine  selling;  6.  Speaking  of  others’  faults;  7. 


101 


Praising  one’s  self,  and  defaming  others;  8.  Parsi- 
mony, joined  with  scoffing ; 9.  Anger  and  refusing  to 
be  corrected ; 10.  Reviling  the  three  Precious  Ones. 
Buddhism  is  an  eclectic  religion  and  this  gives  it  the 
power  of  incorporating  what  others  hold  with  itself; 
it  is  a grand  co-partnership  between  itself  and  any 
thing  it  can  get  into  compact,  and  where  it  cannot 
overcome  it  is  accommodating.  As  Caesar  could  not 
conquer  the  Nervii,  he  called  them  “our  friends  or 
allies.”  Buddhism  begins  at  Atheism  and  ends  with 
Polytheism.  Its  evil  influences  must  be  counteracted 
before  China  can,  in  any  true  sense,  be  civilized. 

The  Buddhists  were  ready  to  engraft  the  wor- 
ship of  the  dead  growing  out  of  perverted  Con- 
fucianism, and  in  conjunction  with  the  Taoists,  super- 
intend the  ceremonies  of  the  Yu-lan-ui,  or  association 
for  finding  the  dead.  They,  by  adopting  this  feast 
of  all  souls  and  emphasizing  it  by  their  doctrine 
of  the  transmigration  of  souls,  gained  great  power. 
The  monastery  where  the  Three  Precious  Ones  appear 
to  the  best  advantage  is  called  the  Ocean  Banner 
Monastery  or  Horiam  Joss  House.  At  the  entrance 
are  four  idols  of  prodigious  size  and  of  disgusting  mien ; 
they  are  the  Four  Kings  of  Heaven  who  preside  over 
the  four  cardinal  points  of  the  compass,  having  power 
to  interfere  with  the  affairs  of  the  world,  and  to  bestow 
great  happiness  on  those  who  honor  the  three  Precious 
ones.  Their  names  are  To-Man,  the  much-hearing 
one ; Chi-Kuok,  controller  of  nations ; Tsang-Chung,  in- 
creased grandeur ; and  Knong-Muk,  large  eyes.  The 
images  of  the  Three  Precious  Ones  are  set  in  lotus 
flowers,  while  on^  either  side  are  representatives  of 
the  eighteen  early  missionaries.  The  evening  ritual 
service  was  being  performed  by  about  thirty  prksts. 


102 


in  yellow  robes,  cbantiug  like  Romish  and  Ritualistic 
priests,  and  one  could  not  fail  to  mark  the  similarity 
in  many  points.  It  had  processionals,  it  had  inton- 
ings,  prostrations,  worshipping  towards  the  altar,  bow- 
ings, incense  burnings,  vestments,  bell-ringings,  &c. 
The  copy  is  easily  traceable  to  the  heathen  original. 
The  priests  are  dirty  and  unprincipled,  who,  to  increase 
their  finances,  fastened  the  doors  upon  us,  but  Messrs. 
Wisner  and  Henry,  with  the  courage  of  our  country- 
men, indicated  that  if  they  were  not  opened  they 
would  break  them  open;  they  then  unloosed  the 
bolts  and  bars.  There  is  within  the  enclosure  a fur- 
nace for  cremation  and  two  ash-houses  filled  with  the 
incinerated  remains  of  these  monks,  There  is  one 
* for  the  lower  and  higher  styles  of  the  inorganic  de- 
posits. 


OUR  COUNTRYMEN— THEIR  HOMES  AND  WORK. 
ANTON  is  the  capital  of  Kwong-wing  Province. 


It  is  the  residence  of  the  Viceroy  of  the  two 
Kwong  provinces,  and  of  the  nigh  military  and  civil 
officials.  The  city  is  built  in  two  districts  or  counties. 
The  wall  around  the  city  is  a little, less  than  six  miles 
in  circuit,  and  a cross  wall  running  east  and  west 
divides  it  into  two  unequal  portions,  called  the  old 
and  new  city.  The  average  height  is  twenty-five 
feet,  and  the  width  about  the  same;  it  is  faced  with 
stone  and  bricks  and  filled  in  with  clay.  The  walls 
around  the  old  city  were  built  in  the  eleventh  century 
and  were  completed  as  they  now  appear  A.  D.,  1380; 
the  new  city  was  enclosed  in  1568.*  There  are  six- 


CHAPTER  X. 


103 


teen  gates,  two  of  which  are  in  the  west  wall,  six  in 
the  south,  two  in  the  east,  and  three  in  the  north. 

This  city  became  a port  for  foreign  commerce  in 
the  eighth  and  ninth  centuries.  In  1637  a fleet  of 
English  ships  entered  the  Pearl  river,  and  the  East 
India  Company  was  established  in  Canton  in  1684.  The 
city  was  taken  by  the  Tartars  in  1650,  who  signalized 
their  advent  by  destroying  thousands  of  the  natives.  It 
was  menaced  by  the  English  in  1841,  but  was  ransomed 
by  the  payment  of  $6,000,000.  It  was  captured  by  the 
allied  forces  of  England  and  France  on  December  29, 
1851,  and  held  by  them  for  four  years.  The  occasion 
for  this  interference  was  singularly  like  that  protest 
in  our  own  country,  which  culminated  in  throwing 
the  tea  overboard  in  the  harbor  of  Boston.  The 
Chinese,  with  better  reason,  destroyed  two  ship  loads 
of  opium. 

The  history  of  China  has  a golden  thread  running 
in  it.  Strange  as  it  may  seem,  China  has  had  a 
Christian  revolution,  which  perished,  according  to  the 
Master’s  words  uttered  when  his  disciples  would  have 
resorted  to  the  sword  in  his  defence : “ Put  up  again  thy 
sword  into  his  place ; for  all  they  that  take  the  sword 
shall  perish  with  the  sword.”  This  command  has 
received  fulfilment  in  all  the  ages  of  the  Church’s  his- 
tory. Either  they  who  have  taken  the  sword  in 
defence  of  the  Chris'fcian  religion  have  perished,  or  the 
defended  Christianity  has  perished.  The  fall  of  what 
was  a genuine  Christian  movement  in  the  beginning, 
in  China,  was  the  result  of  a vain  endeavor  to  defend 
itself  against  its  foes. 

In  1847  came  an  unexpected  uprising  of  a great 
multitude,  many  of  whom  were  inspired  by  the 
highest  hopes  that  can  animate  the  human  soul.  It 


104 


was  a sporadic  movement  in  the  beginning,  but 
became  wildly  contagious.  It  began  in  the  dominat- 
ing power  of  the  divine  life  in  the  soul  of  a single  man 
from  a province  about  forty  miles  from  Canton, 
who  was  impelled  into  this  revolutionary  zeal  by  a 
tract  written  by  a Chinese  Christian  convert,  which 
led  him  to  the  study  of  the  New  Testament  until 
conviction  of  its  truth  took  captive  his  whole  life. 
He  was  no  longer  a Chinaman,  but  became  a new 
creation  through  the  truth.  All  who  knew  him  only 
recognized  the  former  man  by  his  face ; in  all  else  he 
was  as  much  a surprise  to  them  as  if  they  had  seen 
him  come  out  of  another  world. 

This  renewed  man  applied  to  the  Baptist  Mission  to 
be  baptized,  which  was  not  immediately  granted.  He 
then  went  to  Lein  Chow  and  other  cities  and  villages, 
and  gathered  around  him  those  like-minded  with  him- 
self. About  3,000  became  his  followers  by  accepting 
the  teachings  of  the  New  Testament,  which  they 
printed  and  distributed  as  widely  as  their  means  and 
opportunities  would  permit.  He  became  a preacher 
of  wonderful  power  over  the  Chinese ; they  believed 
in  him  and  followed  him  in  perfect  trust.  Christ  was 
the  centre  of  his  preaching,  and  hostility  to  false  gods 
and  a false  and  sinful  life  was  its  outward  expression. 
But  such  teaching  would  not  only  raise  up  followers 
but  persecutors  as  well ; so  the  gentry,  who  feared  the 
effects  of  such  a change  on  their  position  and  immuni- 
ties, opposed  them,  and  soon  compelled  them  to  take 
up  arms  in  self-defence.  They  had  not  learned  that 
a living  Christianity  must  be  a suffering  faith,  and 
that  its  followers  must  endure  persecution. 

How  sad  it  was  that  this  uprising,  which  would 
by  this  time  have  revolutionized  China,  and  set  her 


105 


in  the  constellations  of  progressive  nations,  should  be 
dashed  out  of  e^stence  by  a single  misconception  of 
the  character  of  Christianity.  Having  so  far  departed 
from  its  spirit  and  purpose  as  to  1 ake  up  the  sword, 
they  had  to  abide  its  fatal  issue ; from  that  moment 
the  movement  became  merely  political,  and  adven- 
turers and  men  hostile  to  all  organized  government 
strangled  the  Christianity  out  of  it.  The  form  re- 
mained, but  it  was  dedicated  to  politics,  and  became 
merely  an  agency  working  for  a selfish  end. 

Important  victories  were  gained  at  the  first;  these 
led  the  insurgents  to  advance  on  Nanking,  which  was 
intended  to  be  the  capital  of  the  expected  Christian 
commonwealth ; but  the  cold  weather,  and  the  fanati- 
cism of  the  leaders,  and  the  corruption  which  always 
comes  to  the  surface  of  an  insurgent  army  not  under 
strict  moral  control,  brought  them  to  a defeat  by 
Colonel  Gordon,  in  July  1855,  forty-five  hundred  of 
the  Tsepings  were  executed.  If  the  English  had 
encouraged  this  movement,  China  would  have  been 
Christian,  for  it  was  a movement  from  within  and 
would  have  been  resistless.  Centuries  may  roll  away 
before  there  is  another  such  opportunity  favorable  for 
its  national  elevation. 

In  1856  China  seized  the  Arrow,  an  English  ship, 
and  hauled  down  the  flag ; for  this  England  seized 
the  forts,  and  later  on  opened  fire  on  Canton ; the 
French  and  Americans  joined  in  the  fracas  on  Novem- 
ber 16.  The  American  forces  destroyed  the  forts 
between  Canton  and  Whampoa,  because  the  Chinese 
had  fired  on  Captain,  afterwards  Admiral  Foote’s 
ship,  the  Portsmouth.  The  next  act  of  aggression  on 
the  part  of  the  Chinese  waa  the  burning  of  all  the 
factories  of  the  foreigners,  and  this  was  followed  by 


106 


the  English  burning  the  western  suburbs  of  Canton. 
After  this  the  Chinese  made  an  attempt  to  kill  all  the 
foreigners  by  mixing  poison  in  the  bread.  In  l867 
the  Chinese  attacked  foreign  steamers.  But  the  war 
in  India,  and  the  necessity  for  troops  there  occasioned 
the  transferring  of  the  seat  of  war  to  the  north,  which 
ended  in  the  capture  of  Peking  on  December  28th. 
Canton  was  bombarded  by  the  allies  and  captured. 
The  Viceroy  was  taken  prisoner  and  held  for  a long 
time. 

This  war  record  is  given  because  it  stands  related  to 
the  trials,  labors  and  work  of  the  American  mission- 
aries. The  Canton  Mission  was  founded  in  October, 
1844,  by  DrSo  Culbertson,  Loomis  and  Happer,  and  Mr. 
Lloyd.  In  November  the  mission  was  organized; 
Dr.  and  Mrs.  Cole  came  in  December,  1846,  Dr. 
Speer  and  wife,  and  Rev.  I.  B.  French,  all  came  to 
Macao,  and  in  1847  located  in  Canton.  Dr.  Happer 
and  Mr.  French  opened  a boarding  school,  were  twice 
driven  out,  and  had  to  take  refuge  in  foreign  factories. 
Mrs.  Speer  was  soon  taken  from  the  dangers  and 
anxieties  of  these  troublous  times.  In  1849  Mr. 
French  opened  the  first  chapel  in  a poor  location; 
in  1850,  Dr.  Happer,  in  addition  to  his  day  school 
work,  within  a year,  began  a hospital,  which  still  ■ 
exists,  the  best  in  all  China,  and  which  is  under  the 
management  of  Dr.  Kerr,  assisted  by  Dr.  Swan  and 
Dr.  Mary  Niles.  It  has  been  a continual  blessicg 
to  the  whole  Chinese  Empire,  not  only  in  its  service 
to  diseased  humanity,  but  in  stimulating  others  to 
this  kind  of  work  and  furnishing  a model  of  what  a 
hospital  ought  to  be.  There  have  been  wonderful 
surgical  operations  and  cures;  the  work  increases 
with  the  years  and  the  knowledge  of  its  beneficent 
existence. 


107 


Dr.  Kerr  is  one  of  the  best  known  physicians  and 
surgeons  in  China.  One  of  the  prevailing  forms 
of  disease  in  this  district  is  stone  and  urinary 
calculi.  Some  of  these  which  have  been  successfully 
removed  are  of  enormous  size  and  hardness.  This 
hospital  as  it  now  stands  is  the  result  of  three  com- 
bined, to  wit,  the  one  started  by  Dr.  Peter  Parker,  an 
eminent  missionary  of  the  American  Board,  and  the  first 
United  States  Minister  to  China,  Dr.  Happer’s  hos- 
pital, and  that  of  the  London  Mission.  The  Presby- 
terian Board  pays  the  salaries  of  the  physicians  in 
charge,  but  the  hospital  is  sustained  by  voluntary 
contributions  from  the  Chinese  officials  and  the 
foreign  population.  There  was  started  in  1850  the 
first  day  school  for  boys;  in  1852  the  second  was 
organized  ; and  in  1853  a girls’  boarding  school  was 
opened  by  Mrs.  Happer,  but  she  did  not  live  to  enjoy 
the  results  of  its  splendid  career,  which  twenty  years 
after  was  taken  in  charge  by  Miss  Noyes. 

The  boarding  department  is  a model  of  neatness. 
The  beds  would  seem  hard  according  to  our  ideas  of 
comfort,  instead  of  a mattress  there  is  only  a strip  of 
matting.  This,  with  a quilt  and  a block  of  wood,  con- 
stitutes the  Chinese  idea  of  sleeping  furniture.  There 
are  four  classes  in  this  school.  The  primary  consists 
of  little  girls  from  six  to  eight  years  old.  At  the 
presence  of  visitors  they  all  come,  two  at  a time,  and 
bow  most  deferentially.  This  went  on  in  every  class 
until  it  became  not  a little  tiresome,  and  did  not  end 
until  we  asked  how  long  this  funereal  leave-taking 
would  continue. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  features  of  the  school 
was  the  class  of  mothers.  They  enter  with  their 
little  children,  lodge  and  board  in  the  building,  take 


108 


care  of  their  children,  and  study  with  the  rest. 
Both  aged  and  young  submit  to  the  requirements 
and  discipline  of  the  institution.  Some  of  these 
mothers  were  nearly  sixty  years  old  and  were  diligent 
in  their  studies  and  makiug  remarkable  progress. 
No  such  enthusiasm  and  self-control  could  be  found 
in  either  Europe  or  America,  and  it  shows  the  wonder- 
ful possibilities  of  the  Chinese  people.  They  all 
attended  worship  in  the  chapel.  It  was  a touch- 
ing sight  to  hear  the  aged  and  young  singing 
gospel  hymns  together.  The  worshippers  followed 
the  prayer,  reciting  the  words  as  spoken  in  a low 
murmur,  all,  even  to  the  youngest,  closing  their  eyes 
while  the  prayer  was  being  offered.  This  institution, 
in  the  absence  of  Miss  Noyes  to  America,  is  conducted 
by  Misses  Butler,  Lewis  and  Preston. 

Miss  Preston  is  the  daughter  of  one  of  our  most 
devoted  missionaries  who  has  gone  to  his  reward  and 
rest.  He  labored  a quarter  of  a century  without  ever 
returning  home  and  died,  worn  out  by  excessive 
work.  Long  after  he  was  gone  the  fruit  of  his  labors 
appeared  in  different  localities  in  China,  like  the 
blooming  of  solitary  flowers  where  a single  seed  had 
been  carried  by  the  birds,  or  upon  the  wings  of  the 
wind.  The  Methodist  missionaries  were  searching  in 
vain  for  a place  in  which  to  start  a mission  in  a city 
which  was  a long  distance  from  Canton,  and  they  were 
about  giving  up  the  effort  in  despair  when  a Chinaman 
came  and  offered  a large  place,  far  better  than  they 
had  expected  to  obtain.  And  when  in  surprise  they 
asked  the  reason  of  the  favor,  he  said,  “ O,  I know 
all  about  the  religion  you  preach ; when  I lived  in 
Canton  I often  went  to  listen  to  a minister,  with  big 
eyes,  whom  I loved  to  hear.  I understand  all  about  it, 


109 


you  can  have  my  hall.”  This  minister  was  the  faithful 
Preston,  who  did  his  work  out  of  a sense  of  love  and 
duty  and,  perhaps,  never  knew  that  he  was  accom- 
plishing any  thing  by  the  service  which  he  was  render- 
ing. 

Another  of  this  faithful  band  was  Rev.  Mr.  French, 
who  had  labored  from  the  first  starting  of  the  mission. 
Exhausted  by  his  long  services  he  had  started  for  rest 
to  the  United  States,  but  died  on  the  Indian  Ocean 
There  is  a notable  fact  in  connection  with  this  mission 
work,  and  that  is,  that  it  was  ten  years  before  there 
was  a single  convert.  How  trying  this  must  have 
been  to  the  faith  of  those  first  workers,  who  verily 
endured  “ as  seeing  him  who  is  invisible,”  and  believed 
in  his  promise,  though  no  sign  of  its  fulfilment 
greeted  them. 

The  first  Presbyterian  church  waa  organized  Janu- 
ary 9,  1862,  with  seven  native  and  five  foreign  mem- 
bers. In  this  year  a great  typhoon  swept  over  Can- 
ton, destroying  both  life  and  property.  Amidst  the 
wreck  of  this  storm  were  lost  the  home  and  life  of  the 
Southern  Baptist  Missionary,  Rev.  Mr.  Gaylord. 
Dr.  Kerr  and  Mr.  Preston  took  his  body  out  of  the 
ruins. 

Disconnected  as  these  facts  may  seem,  they  have 
been  culled  from  the  minutes  of  the  Presbytery,  and 
have  all  entered  into  the  life  of  this  mission.  On 
Christmas  Day  of  the  year  1862,  while  the  war  was 
distracting  us  at  home,  another  chapel  was  opened  by 
means  of  funds  raised  by  Mr.  Preston  from  among 
personal  friends  in  China  and  the  United  States.  Such 
a man  would  surely  have  responsive  friends.  After  this 
an  addition  was  made  to  the  lot,  and  a book  depository 
started.  In  1866  the  Rev.  H.  V.  Noyes  and  his 


110 


wife  arrived,  lots  were  bought,  and  mission  school 
houses  were  erected  next  to  the  hospital.  In  186& 
Miss  Noyes  took  up  the  work  dropped  by  the  death 
of  Mrs.  Happer  and  has  carried  it  on  into  its  pres- 
ent prosperity.  In  1872  Rev.  E.  McChesnej  was 
killed  by  an  accidental  shot  from  the  gun  of  a pirate, 
while  on  a trip  to  the  country  with  Rev.  Mr.  Noyes. 
Thus  these  minutes  are  only  the  records  of  lights  and 
shadows  of  missionary  life. 

Our  Mission  in  Canton  is  divided  into  two  sec- 
tions, east  and  west,  and  has  under  its  care  eight 
churches  with  a membership  of  five  hundred  and 
eighty-six.  Three  of  these  are  in  Canton  and  five 
in  the  interior.  The  Rev.  B.  C.  Henry  has  two 
chapels,  eight  boys’  and  two  girls’  schools,  twelve 
country  stations,  twenty  native  assistants  and  two 
Bible  women.  He  had  thirty-seven  additions  last 
year  to  his  churches.  Being  still  in  his  youth  and 
fiill  of  promise  he  is  not  only  efficient  in  his 
work  but  the  author  of  two  valuable  books,  one 
published  in  New  York  and  London  called  “The 
Cross  and  the  Dragon,”  and  the  other  in  London, 
which  contains  an  interesting  account  of  his  explora- 
tion of  the  almost  unknown  Island  of  Hainan. 

We  are  indebted  to  him  and  his  books  for  many^ 
valuable  facts,  which  it  gives  us  pleasure  here 
to  acknowledge.  His  wife  has  charge  of  fourtee^i 
little  waifs  and  could  have  an  orphanage  full  of  them, 
at  the  trifling  expense  of  thirty  dollars  a year  each,  if 
she  had  the  means.  Infant  hands,  motherless  and 
fatherless,  are  outstretched  to  some  childless  household 
in  our  own  country  imploring  aid  in  this  work  which 
will  surely  have  heaven’s  smile  upon  it. 

The  youngest  church  in  the  mission,  under  Mr. 


Ill 


Henry  s care,  has  a self-sacrificing  people,  so  poor 
that  one  wonders  how  they  live,  struggling  against 
adversity  on  every  side;  and  yet  with  not  more 
than  forty  communicants  it  contributed  to  benevolent 
work  last  year  one  hundred  dollars. 

The  First  church  is  under  the  care  of  Rev.  H.  V. 
Noyes,  assisted  by  the  Rev.  O.  F.  Wisner,  who  also 
have  three  native  assistants  in  the  church  and  chapel, 
one  of  whom  is  supported  by  the  church,  the  mem- 
bership of  which  is  one  hundred  and  fifty-six.  The 
pastor  of  the  Second  church  is  the  Rev.  Kwnan  Loy, 
a native  preacher  of  ability  and  faithfulness.  It  is  self- 
supporting  and  is  in  connection  with  the  hospital  work. 
The  Sabbath-school  is  under  the  management  of  the 
ladies  of  the  Female  Seminary.  This  church  has  a 
membership  of  two  hundred  and  forty-two.  The 
First  Presbyterian  church,  of  Shek  Lung,  is  under 
the  care  of  the  Rev.  B.  C.  Henry.  It  is  located 
fifty  miles  east  of  Canton  and  has  encountered  the 
bitter  hostility  of  the  natives,  and  the  consequent  dis- 
persion of  its  members,  but  all  these  discouragements 
it  has  withstood.  A new  chapel  has  been  provided,  to 
the  cost  of  which  the  people,  according  to  their  means, 
have  been  very  liberal  contributors.  It  has  thirty- 
three  members. 

The  First  church,  of  Liu-Po,  is  also  under  the  care 
of  Pastor  Henry;  is  ten  miles  east  of  Canton,  has 
a membership  of  twenty-seven  and  is  gaining  the 
good  will  of  the  natives.  His  assistant  is  Ho  Kwai- 
tok.  The  First  Presbyterian  church,  of  San  Ui, 
under  the  ministry  of  Rev.  W.  J.  White,  one  hun- 
dred and  fifteen  miles  south-west  of  Canton,  has 
prospered  amidst  many  adversities.  The  chapel  was 
destroyed  and  local  hostilities  are  still  strong,  but 


112 


the  members,  twenty-nine  in  number,  are  steadfast, 
and  native  prejudices  are  softening. 

There  are  six  chapels  in  Canton,  and  the  fact  is 
surprising  that  preaching  is  conducted  in  most  of 
the  churches  and  chapels  every  day,  the  service  last- 
ing for  three  hours,  so  that  the  congregations,  coming 
and  going  as  may  be  convenient  to  the  people,  aggre- 
gate a large  number;  sometimes  in  the  three  hours 
services  as  many  as  a thousand  hear  the  gospel.  One 
of  the  preachers  is  a paralytic,  and  has  been  so  most 
of  his  active  life.  Pain-worn  and  emaciated,  his  zeal 
and  faithfulness  put  stronger  ones  to  the  blush. 
He  is  carried  in  his  chair  to  preach  to  the  people  and 
is  appreciated  by  them,  which  is  not  surprising  when 
the  marks  of  his  mission  of  suffering  are  studied. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  institutions  ihere 
is  the  Men’s  Training  and  Boys’  Boarding  Schools. 
It  is  a fact  well  known  in  China  that  Mr.  Noyes 
is  one  of  the  best  scholars  in  the  empire,  and  has  done 
as  much  literary  work  as  any  man  of  his  age  in  it. 
The  teaching  in  this  school  is  under  his  supervision 
and  he  is  assisted  by  Mr.  and  Miss  Wisner,  all  of  whom 
are  thoroughly  posted  in  every  respect,  especially  in 
the  Scriptures.  We  were  asked  to  address  the  school, 
which  we  did  through  an  interpreter.  At  the  end 
of  a fifteen  minute  speech  a Chinese  boy,  not  more  . 
than  twelve  years  old — the  son  of  a native  Christian 
— arose  and  repeated  it  almost  verbatim.  One  of  the 
boys  recited  the  whole  of  tbe  First  Epistle  to 
the  Corinthians,  and  there  was  another  who  had 
committed  to  memory  the  entire  New  Testament. 
In  another  department  the  pupils  were  hearing  a 
lecture  and  receiving  instruction  in  letter-writing, 
while  in  another  the  chalk  marks  of  problems  in 


113 


‘conic  sections  were  fresh  on  the  black-board.  Yet  we 
hear  that  missionaries  are  lazy  and  live  on  the  fat  of 
the  land,  and  never  do  any  thing,  and  some  say  that 
they  never  heard  of  a converted  Chinaman. 

There  is  a church  alongside  of  this  School  in  which 
services  are  held  every  day  of  the  year  and  sometimes 
two  or  three  times  a day.  One  is  impressed  by  the 
surroundings.  The  Chinese  being  a pork-eating 
class  of  humanity  the  mission  has  been  located 
to  reach  them  more  readily.  Beside  the  church  is  a 
large  hog-market,  from  which  the  reflection  comes  ever 
and  anon  of  death  and  its  solemn  realities.  While 
the  preacher  is  praying  there.is  an  agonizing  squeal, 
and  when  he  is  returning  thanks  for  spared  life 
there  is  another  squeal  of  desolation,  and  “another 
porker”  has  gone  through  the  gates  of  death;  when 
he  reads  another  lifts  up  his  dying  groans,  and  as 
they  sing,  their  melody  is  mingled  with  the  deep  misere- 
ries  of  expiring  hogs.  It  is  a vicissitudinous  service  in 
which  the  audience  ought  to  be  humble  and  mindful  of 
death  and  that  change  is  written  on  the  face  of  all 
things  earthly,  for  before  the  service  is  over  the  first 
hogs  that  squealed  are  hanging  in  linked  sausage 
before  the  church  door. 

This  market-place  is  interesting  in  other  respects 
beside  its  propinquity  to  the  church  of  the  Pres- 
byterian Board  of  Foreign  Missions.  The  “ put  up” 
of  the  pigs  for  market  was  novel,  each  pig  being 
imprisoned  in  a basket  all  his  own,  in  which  he  can 
grunt,  wriggle  and  squeal  without  distracting  his 
neighbor.  In  the  boats  passing  up  and  down  the 
river  are  hundreds  of  these  basketed  treasures,  some 
coming  from  as  far  away  as  the  Island  of  Hainan, 
being  brought  to  this  choice  place  to  die. 


114 


In  the  united  effort  of  treatment  to  both  soul  and 
body  in  Canton,  is  the  new  hospital  work  of  Dr.  Mary 
Fulton,  a graduate  of  that  useful  medical  college,  in 
Philadelphia,  which  was  under  the  skillful  manage- 
ment of  the  late  Dean  Bodley  and  her  able  staff. 
Many  will  remember  the  mob  which  drove  away  Rev. 
and  Mrs.  Fulton  and  Dr.  Fulton  from  Quarping.  It 
was  an  escape  from  the  very  jaws  of  death.  Dr.  Ful- 
ton began  medical  work  in  Canton  temporarily  until 
such  time  as  they  could  all  return,  but  there  has  been 
as  yet  no  opening  and  her  work  has  been  a great 
success.  She  has  now  three  dispensaries  and  one 
hundred  patients  a day.  The  myth  that  women  will 
not  make  good  surgeons  has  been  dissipated  here,  for 
according  to  the  testimony  of  Dr.  Kerr,  one  of  the 
most  eminent  in  the  profession,  both  Drs.  Fulton  and 
Niles  are  succeeding  in  this  department  in  a most 
satisfactory  degree.  Rev.  Mr.  Fulton  is  engaged  in 
mission  work  in  and  out  of  the  city,  preaches  in  the 
First  church,  and  is  'meeting  with  encouraging  results 
in  his  work.  Miss  Baird  and  Miss  Happer  are  en- 
gaged in  schools  in  the  city  and  villages  and  are  doing 
mission  work  in  the  homes  of  the  women. 

Mr.  White  has,  in  Macao,  a chapel  and  an  exten- 
sive country  work  comprising  seven  stations  in  the 
district,  from  which  come  most  of  the  Chinese  emi- 
grants to  America.  Mrs.  White  has  the  care  of  two 
girls’  schools.  Di.  Thompson  has  a medical  work  at 
Macao,  a dispensary,  chapel  and  a new  church.  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Gilman,  Dr.  McCandlass  and  Mr.  Jever- 
niassen  are  in  the  interesting  country  just  opened  up 
to  the  public  knowledge,  Hainan,  and  are  meeting 
with  remarkable  success.  This  will  inform  revilers, 
who  may  be  interested  in  the  subject,  what  this  Can- 


115 


ton  Mission,  so  far  as  we  could  ascertain,  is  doing; 
and  that  the  missionaries  and  their  work,  judging 
them  even  from  a most  brief  and  fragmentary  report, 
are  worthy  of  support  and  confidence. 

The  London  Missionary  Society  also  has  estab- 
lished here  its  soul-saving  efforts.  Those  controlling 
it  are  the  English  Congregationalists  or  Indepen- 
dents. Rev.  Messrs.  Pierce  and  Eichler  have  two 
chapels  and  an  organized  church,  in  Canton,  with  a 
membership  of  seventy-nine.  One  connected  with 
the  chapel  at  Fatshan  has  eighty-two  members. 
They  have  also  two  other  stations  in  the  interior 
with  forty  members  each.  At  one  of  these  the  natives 
built  their  own  house  of  worship.  The  Southern  Bap- 
tists have  one  church  which  has  lifted  itself  up  out 
of  the  adversities  common  to  all,  and  has  the  prospect 
of  better  progress  in  the  future. 

To  understand  and  fairly  estimate  Foreign  Mission 
"Work  it  is  necessary  to  know  that  the  lists  of  com- 
municants do  not  give  a correct  idea  of  its  strength. 
For  many  reasons  heathen  people  are  slow  in  taking 
the  final  step  which  brings  them  into  full  fellowship 
with  the  Church.  Sometimes  it  involves  the  loss  of 
employment,  banishment  from  home,  a practical  sever- 
ing of  marriage  relations,  and  sometimes  the  sever- 
est persecutions  and  even  death*.  Those  so  sorely 
tried  often  attend  church,  live  as  Christians,  con- 
tribute to  its  support  and  conform  to  the  require- 
ments of  Christian  life  in  every  other  respect. 
Others  are  timid  and  fear  the  reproach  they  will 
bring  on  the  cause  which  they  reverence  far  beyond 
what  they  feel  to  be  their  ability  to  honor.  Often  it 
has  been  found  at  death  that  men  and  women  have 
been  quiet  followers  of  Christ,  who  never  declared 


116 


in  any  other  way  than  by  coming  to  the  services  and 
going  away  without  being  known  even  to  the  mission- 
ary. One  of  the  surprises  at  the  harvest  time,  when 
the  fruit  of  all  sowing  shall  be  gathered,  will  be  the 
many  who  have  believed  and  been  saved  without 
coming  into  formal  church  connection.  Of  course,  it 
is  to  be  regretted  that  they  did  not  confess  Christ 
before  men,  but  if  they  have  confessed  before  God 
under  the  trying  circumstances  of  their  lives,  who  is 
there  that  will  not  rejoice  that  even  this  was  done? 

Besides  multitudes  of  the  young  attend  these  ser- 
vices and  receive  lasting  impressions,  who,  when  they 
arrive  at  manhood  and  womanhood  may  be  far  away ; 
but  the  truth  follows  them  and  they  have  often  raised 
the  Standard  of  the  cross  in  their  distant  homes. 
They  tell  their  neighbors  and  friends  of  the  things 
heard  in  childhood,  and  of  Jesus  Christ  who  came 
to  seek  and  save  the  lost ; and  thus  the  seed  sown 
as  it  seemed  to  the  wind,  has  been  often  the  beginning 
of  a church  or  mission  station  in  some  remote  corner 
of  the  Empire.  Then  a^ain,  the  church  which  may 
not  have  more  than  one  hundred  communicants, 
modifies  prejudices,  makes  friends,  prepares  the  way 
for  future  progress,  scatters  seed-thoughts,  teaches  the 
husbands  and  wives  of  the  natives  better  ideas  of  duties 
to  each  other,  and  teaches  the  husband  that  his  wife  is 
not  his  slave,  but  his  equal.  It  impart  ideas  of  clean- 
liness, of  virtue  in  the  relations  of  the  sexes,  of 
resignation  in  affliction,  of  how  to  utilize  the  dark 
phases  of  life,  all  these  and  more  than  these  could  be 
enumerated,  just  as  a fire  kindled  has  more  blessings 
than  merely  keeping  men  from  freezing. 

Nor  are  the  judicious  missionaries  anxious  to  have 
men  and  women  connect  themselves  with  the  church 


• 117 


quickly  without  careful  consideration.  They  know 
their  lamentable  want  of  knowledge  of  the  simplest 
Christian  requirements.  They  know  how  much  ia 
against  them,  both  within  and  without,  and  prefer 
to  impress  them  with  the  solemnity  of  the  step  and 
the  consequences  involved.  The  most  promising 
are  kept  waiting  a long  time  until  they  have  had 
opportunity  to  see  their  unfolding  characters,  and 
until  the  applicant  may  know  by  contact  with  tempta- 
tion more  of  his  or  her  own  weakness,  spiritual  needs 
and  sustenance. 

The  general  condition  of  the  Chinaman  is  unfavor- 
able to  the  ready  reception-  of  the  gospel.  He  is  ex- 
ceedingly self  conceited,  and  this  is  the  parent  of  that 
contempt  which  never  gives  up  a fault  or  acquires  a 
virtue.  He  dotes  on  his  civilization  and  education, 
while  both  are  the  cast-off  rags  of  antiquity.  They 
may  be  of  some  service  as  a system  of  intellectual  gym- 
nastics, but  have  no  moral  hope  in  them  and  are  of  no 
present  practical  value.  The  greatest  difficulty  in 
the  way  of  the  advancement  of  this  nation  is  the  want 
of  railroads.  That  was  a bad  time  in  Israel  when  they 
had  no  roads,  and  when  every  man  did  that  which  was 
right  in  his  own  eyes.  So  every  man  will  ever  do. 
Society  becomes  disintegrated  without  adequate  and 
available  means  of  travel.  The  Chinese  cannot  realize 
how  far  they  are  behind . in  the  world  and  how  decep- 
tive is  the  dream  of  their  civilization  and  progress. 
There  are  no  more  effective  missionaries  of  the  gospel 
for  a specific  work  than  railroads ; they  rend  the  veil 
of  darkness  and  bring  in  the  light ; they  pierce  the 
clouds  that  the  sun  of  heaven  may  shine  in ; they  are, 
in  a sense,  the  John  Baptists  of  the  wilderness  crying, 
“ Prepare  ye  the  way  of  the  Lord,  and  make  his  paths 


118 


straight.”  Hence,  it  is  not  surprising  that  the  Prophet, 
fortelling  a coming  brighter’ day  for  Israel,  gave  the 
railroad  features  of  it  in  this  description: — “The 
chariots  shall  rage  in  the  streets;  they  shall  jostle 
one  another  in  the  broad  ways ; they  shall  seem  like 
torches,  and  they  shall  run  like  the  lightnings.” 

When  the  news  went  forth  of  the  formation  of  an 
American  and  Chinese  syndicate  to  build  railroads 
and  found  banking  institutions,  it  was  felt  that  the 
day  of  Christian  progress  was  coming  for  China.  The 
forces  in  the  field  ought  to  be  multiplied  so  that 
Christianity  shall  march  on  with  the  material  pro- 
gress and  greater  knowledge,  in  an  increased  contact 
with  the  outside  world.  The  fact  is  apparent  that 
China  must  be  shaken  up  by  outside  contact,  even 
bloody  contact  if  needs  be,  horrible  as  it  is,  until  she 
learns  her  weakness — until  her  intolerable  egotism 
and  excessive  but  ignorant  insolence  is  taken  away. 
Then  she  will  in  her  true  strength  arise ; for  she  has 
tremendous  capacities  if  only  rightly  directed.  There 
is  a disposition  on  the  part  of  a class  of  literary 
cranks  in  Europe  and  America  to  go  into  admiring 
spasms  over  Confucianism  and  the  fungi  which  have 
grown  out  of  it.  All  this  is  calculated  to  keep  the 
Chinese  still  in  the  background,  just  as  the  admira- 
tion of  the  same  class  for  Buddhism  et  id  genus  omne, 
contributes  to  the  filthy,  disgusting  self  conceit  of  the 
natives  of  India,  who  waUow  in  styes  without  even 
the  ambition  to  turn  over. 

Neither  of  these  peoples  will  be  elevated  by  praising 
what  has  ceased  to  be  of  the  slightest  value  in  practi- 
cal life,  however  beautiful  it  may  have  been.  AH 
this  ado  over  Confucianism  and  Buddhism  is  only  an 
cfibrt  to  restore  the  breath  of  corpses  by  sprinkling 


119 


them  with  cologne.  They  are  dead,  and  produce  only 
death,  and  ought  to  go  the  way  of  carcasses.  The 
hyena  instinct  that  disentombs  them  can  be  produc- 
tive of  nothing  better  than  continued  death  to  the 
nations  to  whom  they  once  belonged,  and  of  general 
malaria  everywhere  else.  This  revived  interest  in 
heathen  religion  is  but  another  illustration  of  that 
contradiction  in  human  nature,  whereby  radicalism 
and  progressive  religious  thought  and  reaction  ajy 
tendencies  assert  themselves  in  the  same  mysterious 
personalities. 

It  is  said  with  emphasis  that  all  things  are  possible 
with  God.  It  may  also  be  said  that  under  certain 
conditions,  all  things  are  possible  with  man ; and  this 
^s  much  on  his  believing  as  on  his  unbelieving  side. 
The  Chinese  have  all  the  low  vices  of  the  worst 
heathenism  with  more  force  in  them  to  effect  their 
degradation.  The  Hindu  with  his  evil  passions 
can  hardly  be  persuaded  to  rise  from  his  seat  even 
when  he  drops  down.  Inertia  is  a saving  force 
in  his  nature;  but  the  Chinaman  loves  activity  even 
if  it  is  in  the  direction  of  self-destruction.  Hence, 
abominable  sins  for  which  decency  has  no  nomencla- 
ture prevail  to  an  immeasurable  extent.  Nor  is  his 
honesty  of  higher  cast  than  in  other  heathen  countries. 
He  has  a wiser  regard  for  self,  and  makes  his  calcula- 
tions of  selfish  advantage  much  farther  ahead.  His 
intellectual  force  is  greater,  but  his  deflections  are,  in 
this  respect,  quite  as  great.  He  will  lie  to  obtain  the 
smallest  advantage. 

On  the  ship  that  conveyed  us  to  Shanghai  there 
was  an  example  not  at  all  exceptional.  A Chinese 
woman  came  to  the  captain  saying  she  was  a widow 
and  had  several  little  children,  and  so  wrought  on  the 


120 


captain’s  feelings  that  he  reduced  the  fare  by  one-half. 
Then  she  went  straight  to  her  husband  for  the  money. 
This  goes  on  all  the  time,  so  that  years  of  experience 
by  the  most  expert  are  unavailing  for  their  detection. 
Another  dodge  is  always  to  bring  a few  cents  less  than 
the  required  amount,  and  declare  that  this  is  all  the 
money  they  have.  Their  love  of  gambling  of  every 
species  is  a mania.  On  the  ships  the  Chinese  passen- 
gers gamble  every  cent  of  their  money  away,  and  are 
often  found  far  from  home,  penniless.  One  of  the 
methods  adopted  by  the  officers  of  ships  to  get  the 
money  for  the  passage  when  they  have  gambled  it 
away,  is  to  tie  up  the  delinquent  by  his  cue,  when  he 
howls  in  the  ears  of  the  Chinese  passengers  until  they 
compel  the  man  who  has  gotten  his  money  to  pay  it 
for  him. 

Sometimes  a servant  will  be  faithful  for  years  until 
intrusted  with  every  thing  by  his  employer,  and  then 
without  a ripple  on  the  surface  of  confidence  will  de- 
camp with  every  thing  he  can  carry  away.  Of  course 
it  is  not  here  meant  to  convey  the  idea  that  all  China- 
men are  of  this  class.  The  character  of  a people  must 
not  be  measured  by  its  best,  but  by  the  average  mani- 
festation in  every  station  and  condition  of  life. 


CHAPTER  XI. 


A NATION  AS  HER  RELIGION. 

Religion  is  a factor  which  cannot  be  eliminatde 
from  a nation’s  history.  It  is  a controlling 
principle  of  her  life  and  will  be  found  to  affect  her 
politics,  commerce,  literature  and  philosophy.  Athe- 
ism in  China  is  a clustered  product.  There  is,  along 
side  of  Confucianism  and  Buddhism,  Taoism  or  Ration- 
alism, a bundle  of  absurdities  with  a taking  name, 
whose  devotees  are  truth  seekers  just  as  moles  might 
be  called  light  seekers.  Its  founder  was  a contem- 
porary of  Confucius,  and  it  is,  therefore,  like  Con- 
fucianism in  its  nature,  while  Buddhism  is  a “ foreign 
devil.” 

Latsz  was  its  founder ; the  most  remarkable  of  his 
productions  is  the  canon  of  truth  and  virtue.  It 
is  a popular  treatise  with  the  people  because  they 
cannot  understand  it.  The  unintelligible  is  relegated 
to  the  superstitious.  Modern  rationalism  has  its 
salient  characteristics ; it  is  mere  transcendentalism  or 
looking  at  unknowable  truth  through  smoked  glasses. 
Taoism  has  had  to  be  transformed  to  be  practical, 
and  in  these  changes  only  the  dross  is  left,  and  it  is 
now  the  lowest  and  most  demoralizing  of  all  the 
popular  superstitions.  The  system  was  made  some- 
what intelligible  by  its  great  champion,  Changtsz. 
It  was  built  on  materialism,  and  proclaimed  the 
eternity  of  matter  and  the  spontaneous  origin  of  the 
world.  Its  purpose  was  sublime,  but  not  practicable^ 
It  wrestled  with  the  undefinable.  The  following  will 
give  an  idea  of  it  in  his  definitions  of  Tao : 

“ the  Tao  that  can  be  expressed  is  not  the  eternal 

121 


122 


name.  The  nameless  being  is  before  heaven  and 
earth ; when  named  it  is  the  mother  of  all  things.’^ 

In  his  labor  to  make  virtue  intelligible,  he  says, 
“The  highest  form  of  Teh  (virtue)  only  proceeds 
from  Tao,  and  Tao  is  a thing  impalpable  and  indefin- 
ite.” The  following  is  perhaps  his  most  intelligible 
utterance: — “The  perfect  man  has  no  immutable  senti- 
ments of  his  own,  for  he  makes  the  mind  of  mankind 
his  own,  he  who  is  good  I would  meet  with  goodness,, 
and  he  who  is  not  good  I still  would  meet  with  good-  • 
ness.”  His  idea  of  the  origin  of  the  earth  and  its  life 
was  that  “ the  coarser  parts  of  matter  descend  and 
form  the  earth  and  inanimate  things,  while  the  refined 
essences  of  one  eternal  matter  tend  upward  and  are 
possessed  of  life  and  individuality,  wander  through 
space,  infect  purer  life,  having  their  abodes  in  the 
stars,  which  have  a controlling  influence  on  man  and 
things.”  This  system  has  produced  magicians,  alchem- 
ists, astrology,  monastics  and  elixirs  that  would  give 
immortality. 

The  name  of  this  philosopher  Latsz  means  “ the  old 
boy ;”  he  has  been  born  and  worked  over  many  times, 
having  existed  as  a living  principle,  pervading  the 
great  force  of  space  prior  to  creation,  and  being  well 
evoluted  appeared  at  several  times  in  personified  form 
in  three  great  deities.  After  creation  he  is  said  to 
have  appeared  in  the  guise  of  kings  or  statesmen.  It 
will  be  seen  at  once  what  a continuous  harvest  of 
myths  and  superstitions  such  teachings  must  produce. 
The  highest  ideal  of  perfection  of  his  disciples  is  to 
attain  a state  of  sin-yan  or  genii,  a class  a little  lower 
than  the  gods ; ^nd  the  means  for  attaining  this  state 
are  such  as  are  in  active  use  in  the  Roman  Catholic 
Church — fastings,  liturgies,  magic,  &c. 


123 


This  system  has  been  a favorite  with  the  rulers  of 
China,  and  its  forms  are  engrafted  into  the  State  wor- 
ship. The  other  world  is  a recast  of  this ; and  in  the 
various  State  temples  throughout  the  Empire  the 
chief  wizard,  through  many  mythical  processes 
continuing  during  nine  years,  gained  the  power  to 
ascend  to  heaven  and  to  prostrate  himself  before  the 
Three  Pure  Ones,  and  then  settled  in  the  Dragon  and 
Tiger  mountains,  where  his  descendants  still  have  the 
power  of  expelling  demons  and  of  protecting  by 
charms,  &c.  This  wizard  chooses  certain  spirits  to 
preside  over  human  affairs  for  a term  of  years.  Thus 
in  years  past  the  presiding  spirit  in  Canton  was  that 
of  the  celebrated  Commissioner  Lin,  who  played  a 
conspicuous  part  in  the  war  between  the  allies  and 
China  in  1841.  From  this  system  has  come  the  terror- 
ism due  to  the  fear  of  evil  spirits.  As  usual,  the 
priests,  following  their  universal  instincts,  do  all  they 
can  to  keep  the  people  under  by  means  of  their  fears; 
so  that  all  China  is  terrified,  and  at  every  door 
mysterious  characters  are  posted  against  malignant 
interferences. 

This  priestly  influence  explains  their  sudden  out- 
breaks against  foreigners ; it  is  used  to  excite  their 
fear,  and  to  keep  it  up.  The  most  intense  hatred 
exists  all  over  China,  growing  deeper  and  more 
malignant,  against  all  foreigners.  It  is  a mistake 
that  they  have  any  liking  for  Americans ; they  make 
no  distinction  in  their  favor,  and  would  cut  their 
throats  if  they  dared.  The  Chinese  have  never 
suffered  in  San  Francisco  what  they  have  inflicted, 
and  would  again  inflict,  on  Americans  if  they  had  the 
opportunity.  The  reproach  which  they  heap  upon 
them  daily  and  hourly  is  more  than  has  ever  entered 


124 


^ hoodlum  imagination.”  “ Foreign  devil,”  “ red- 
haired  devil,”  are  the  epithets  muttered  and  shouted 
as  foreigners  walk  the  streets.  A vileness,  in  under- 
tone, of  unspeakable  blackguardism  is  the  birth-right 
and  cherished  form  of  heredity  transmitted  through 
all  the  years  of  Chinese  life.  It  is  a species  of  home 
culture ; it  is  used  among  themselves,  and  is  poured 
out  alike  upon  foreign  men  and  women  going  along 
the  streets.  We  do  not  say  that  they  all  do  it,  any 
more  than  that  all  Americans  are  hoodlums ; but  the 
greater  number  do  so,  and  no  one  lifts  up  bis  voice 
against  it,  and  no  policeman  restrains  it.  We  do  not 
justify  by  this  the  oppression  to  which  they  are  sub- 
jected in  America.  It  is  a burning  shame  to  us, 
for  we  are  a Christian  people,  claiming  a higher  civili- 
zation and  a country  open  to  the  oppressed  of  all 
nations.  Nevertheless,  according  to  equity,  the 
Chinaman  suffers  in  America  fewer  outrages  than  he 
inflicts  in  China. 

There  are  one  hundred  and  twenty  temples  in  Can- 
ton, some  of  which  are  popular  favorites,  such  as  the 
Temple  of  Kam-fa,  the  Goddess  of  Women  and  Chil- 
dren ; and  Kun-Yam,  the  Goddess  of  Mercy,  whose 
business  it  is  to  bestow  sons ; accordingly  the  temple 
is  full  of  those  who  desire  such  blessings,  making 
their  sacrifices  and  “booming  their  expectations.” 
The  Temple  of  Horrors  is  another.  There  is  a 
fascination  to  human  nature,  even  in  its  best  estate, 
for’horrible  sights ; hence  the  common  mania  for  exe- 
cutions. This  sentiment  is  gratified  in  China  by 
means  of  the  sanctities  of  worship.  It  is  situated  on 
one  of  the  most  frequented  streets,  and  is  entered  by 
a wide  passage  without  ornamentation,  except  the 
usual  monstrous  and  grotesque  images  which  are 


125 


supposed  to  guard  the  temple.  One  sees  here  the  ex- 
tremes of  heathenism  in  dirty,  persistent  beggars, 
moving  masses  of  vermin,  with  distorted  faces  and 
twisted  limbs,  a species  of  humanity  looking  like  a 
cross  between  the  devil  and  the  brute. 

'I'hrough  another  gateway  we  enter  a larger  court ; 
on  each  side  of  which  are  sections  of  the  Buddhist’s 
hell,  containing  shocking  representations  of  the  tor- 
ments inflicted  in  the  next  abode.  All  about  it  is  the 
refuse  of  half  burnt  candles  and  paper;  but  in 
front  are  fortune  tellers,  herb  doctors,  jugglers|and 
goggle-eyed  adventurers,  all  engaged  in  the  deception 
popularly  called  “the  healing  art.”  Beyond  this 
through  another  lofty  portal,  to  the  right  and  left  of 
the  main  hall,  are  the  city  defenders,  the  police  gods, 
images  of  Chinese  patrolmen,  and  as  these  peripatetic 
guardsmen  in  life  are  all  opium  eaters,  the  mouths^ 
chins  and  stomachs  of  the  idols  are  daubed  with  the 
same  disgusting  black  stufl*.  This  is  done  in  deference 
to  the  defunct,  who  loved  it  while  living,  their  spirits 
being  supposed  to  retain  the  same  appetite.  Ch  ristianity 
has  compelled  the  temples  to  adopt  some  substitute  for 
preaching;  hence  a professional  story-teller  is  pro- 
vided, who  entertains  the  crowds  with  marvellous 
stories,  while  on  the  other  side  a Chinese  preacher  is 
discoursing  on  the  ancient  doctrines  of  the  sages. 

In  the  main  hall  is  the  image  of  the  patron  deity ' 
of  walled  cities,  black  with  smoke  and  dust ; in  front 
of  which  are  two  or  three  women  prostrate,  who, 
under  a great  sense  of  grief  or  burdens  of  anxiety, 
have  come  out  of  their  privacy  into  a public  exposure 
which  overwhelmed  them,  but  they  brave  all  for  the 
hope  of  relief.  In  a censer  upon  a tripod,  incense 
sticks  are  sputtering  and  smoking,  and  wax  candles 


1Q6 


are  blushing  at  the  daylight.  At  each  act  of  devo- 
tion a great  drum  is  thumped  to  wake  up  the  sleepy 
deity  and  to  notify  all  concerned  how  matters  are 
coming  on.  There  are  other  shrines,  with  small  images, 
one  to  the  presiding  genius  of  each  year.  Some  are 
lifted  up,  having  there  bricks  under  them  instead  of 
one.  In  such  a case  this  Buddah  has  given  special 
prosperity  to  some  devotee  during  the  year,  so  that 
he  has  become  a “choice  brick.”  Further  back,  near 
which  the  curious  dare  not  go,  is  a deity  who  has 
undergone  matrimony  to  the  extent  ot  a son  and 
daughter ; the  special  benefit  to  men  of  this  primeval 
arrangement  is  not  clear  to  the  uninitiated.  Offerings 
of  considerable  value  are  made  to  this  god  and  his 
family,  and  the  floor  is  covered  with  the  copper  coin 
called  cash.  In  the  month  of  August  his  birthday 
occurs,  at  which  time  he  is  supposed  to  descend  and. 
spend  the  night  in  these  apartments.  It  is  a time  of 
excitement.  The  gates  of  the  city  are  left  open,  and 
a breathless  jam  ensues.  Women  come  from  all  sides, 
especially  from  the  country,  and  remain  all  night  to 
get  any  family  benefits  through  his  descent.  This 
place  is  rented  by  the  city  to  a company,  who  pay 
five  thousand  dollars  per  year,  and  make  ten  out  of 
the  business. 

Another  form  of  idolatry  is  ancestral  worship.  This 
ia  based  upon  the  idea  that  each  person  has  three  souls, 
which  part  at  death.  One  enters  the  tablet,  one  re- 
mains with  the  body  in  the  grave,  while  the  third  is 
arrested  and  imprisoned  in  the  other  world.  Each 
of  these  souls  has  consciousness,  and  their  happiness 
or  misery  depend  on  the  favorable  location  of  che 
grave  and  upon  the  offerings  of  the  living.  The  dead 
are  believed  to  have  pressing  needs,  and  to  be  able 


127 


to  enjoy  the  same  things  as  are  desired  and  possessed 
in  life ; such  as  houses,  lands,  clothing  and  money. 
Not  being  able  to  get  them  they  must  be  dependent 
for  them  on  their  living  relatives,  and  being  invisible 
all  articles  for  their  use  must  be  also  rendered  invisi- 
ble by  burning,  smoke  being  the  only  medium  of 
communication,  except  food.  This  they  smell ; their 
olfactories  are  in  a high  state  of  cultivation;  they 
absorb  odors  which  lift  them  into  the  highest  state 
of  felicity ; hence  over  the  odor  of  the  flesh  of  a pig 
they  will  swing,  straining  for  higher  flights  in  glory, 
as  a balloon  does  over  a gasometer.  They  have  power 
to  come  to  those  neglecting  them,  and  are  able  to  show 
them  their  duties  most  effectively. 

Neglected  ancestors  become  beggar-spirits,  and,  as 
misery  loves  company,  they  “ hob-nob”  with  hungry 
ghosts,  who  go  up  and  down  the  world  dependent  on 
public  charity.  The  result  is  that  stinginess  to,  and 
neglect  of,  ancestors  are  supposed  to  be  the  cause  of 
nearly  all  the  ills  that  afflict  men ; so  the  motives  to 
look  after  their  dead  are  well  loaded  with  selfish 
concern. 

The  worship  is  not  different  from  the  regulation 
kind.  After  a man  dies  the  duties  of  the  devout  are 
specific,  a cup  of  water  at  the  door,  so  that  as  the 
spirit  comes  out  it  may  take  a drink,  a suit  of  clothes 
of  cloth  or  paper  according  to  ability,  all  are  burned  so 
that  the  smoke  may  travel  with  him.  Gilded  paper 
is  changed  into  coin  in  the  spirit  world,  by  which  the 
dead  can  bribe  the  judge  or  celestial  tailor.  For  they 
will  not  say  coffin,  but  call  them  “ longevity  planks,”' 
a delicate  circumlocution.  How  much  more  impres- 
sive, had  they  but  known  it,  is  the  slang  used  in  some, 
parts  of  America  by  which  it  is  designated  as  a man’s 


128 


wooden  overcoat/’  The  outfit  is  a very  important 
affair,  because  in  this  he  is  to  make  his  debut  into 
celestial  society,  It  must  be  of  the  best  possible 
material  and  pattern,  and  must  be  put  on  before  he 
dies,  while  upon  the  location  of  the  grave  depends  all 
his  enjoyments  in  the  other  world.  After  his  demise 
the  female  members  of  the  family  must  howl  and 
scream,  and  harrass  the  celestial  judges  into  pity,  or 
lure  them  until  they  “let  up”  or  modify  the  conditions 
in  favor  of  the  departed.  The  priests,  of  course, 
v^ill  have  a hand  in  the  business ; a host , of  spirits 
accompanying  that  of  the  departed  come  back  at  a 
certain  period  after  death,  when  the  priests  elevate  the 
tablet  of  the  deceased  into  a place  of  eminence,  and 
the  walls  about  the  door  are  hung  with  scrolls  and 
inscriptions  of  various  kinds.  The  priests  in  robes 
march  about  in  processionals,  bow,  chant,  ring  bells 
and  wave  the  magic  wand  or  the  spirit-quelling 
sword,  lay  a heavy  tax  on  the  living  for  their  ser- 
vices, and  ever  after  this,  regular  offerings  are  made 
at  the  time  of  the  worship  of  the  tombs,  which  occurs 
about  Easter. 

This  account  will  give  some  idea  of  this  strange,  and 
to  us  meaningless,  performance.  Here  a misconcep- 
tion might  as  well  be  corrected,  as  to  the  place  of  the 
“ pig-tail”  in  Chinese  life.  It  has  been  associated  with 
this  service  to  the  dead,  but  this  is  a mistake;  it  has  no 
religious  significance  whatever;  it  is  only  political. 
It  came  into  China  through  the  Tartar  invasion, 
and  was  ordered  to  be  worn  as  a mark  of  loyalty 
to  the  reigning  house ; those  who  would  not  conform 
were  proscribed.  But,  to  return  to  the  ancestral 
cer^^monies,  it  is  the  duty  of  the  eldest  son  to  pre- 
side over  them,  or  in  case  of  his  death  his  heir  must 


129 


preside.  It  is  absolutely  necessary  to  secure  a male 
descendant  to  perform  these  ceremonies,  and  the 
oldest  son  inherits  the  greater  part  of  his  father's 
property  to  enable  him  to  meet  these  obligations.  If 
he  is  cut  off,  the  brothers  must  appoint  one  of  their 
sons,  and  if  this  one  is  absent — ten  thousand  miles 
away — he  must  return  to  perform  this  duty  no  matter 
at  what  cost.  If  there  is  no  son,  or  if  he  dies,  or  if  he 
turns  Christian,  one  can  easily  see  what  a consterna- 
tion it  makes  in  Chinadom;  hence  the  ancestral 
hall  is  the  most  sacred  in  the  land.  In  it  are  the 
tablets  of  the  deceased  fathers  of  the  clan  in  which 
their  spirits  reside.  If  both  parents  are  dead  the 
names  of  both  are  in'scribed  in  equal  honor.  A lamp 
with  fragrant  oil  is  always  kept  burning,  and  many 
other  ceremonies  are  observed.  It  is  impossible  to 
convey  an  understanding  of  the  direful  influence  of 
this  ancestral  tyranny,  in  which  all  Chinese  life,  hope 
and  progress  are  entombed. 

We  now  turn  from  the  prevailing  religious  sys- 
tems to  the  temples.  The  founding  of  the  city 
of  Canton  by  the  five  genii  riding  on  rams  has 
been  previously  referred  to.  The  temple  to  their, 
honor  was  visited,  and  in  the  first  pavilion  the  chief 
idol  is  Shangti,  On  the  right  side  are  three  halls 
having  several  idols.  Beyond  the  pavilion  is  a square 
tower  with  an  arched  passage  twenty  feet  high ; in  an 
opening  over  this  arch  is  a bell  said  to  weigh  ten 
thousand  pounds.  There  is  a sacred  legend  that  any 
stroke  by  which  this  bell  should  ever  be  rung  would 
be  the  harbinger  of  great  calamity  to  the  city.  A 
workman  was  repairing  some  part  of  the  frame  on 
which  it  is  suspended  and  accidently  struck  it,  and,  as 
the  story  goes,  a great  pestilence  followed,  from  which 
unnumbered  multitudes  died. 


130 


There  is  a circular  break  in  the  rim  which  was 
made  by  a cannon  ball  from  the  allied  besiegers,  the 
French  and  English,  in  1857,  and  this  made  it  hum ; 
and  the  influence  of  the  existing  superstition  is  thought 
to  have  caused  the  surrender  of  the  city  in  three  or 
four  days  after.  In  the  rear  of  the  bell  tower  is  the 
shrine  of  the  five  genii,  and  before  the  images  are 
five  stones  which  represent  the  five  rams.  It  is  hard 
to  see  the  rams  in  those  shapeless  stones,  except  in  the 
same  way  in  which  Michael  Angelo  saw  an  angel  in 
an  uncut  block  of  marble. 

The  habits  of  the  .Chinese  are  as  remarkable  as  their 
te^jnples.  China  is  remembered  from  our  childhood  in 
a picture  in  the  second  reader  of  the  schools  of  that 
day.  There  were  two  Chinamen  with  pigtails,  and 
with  wide  brimmed  hats,  both  belled  and  conical  at 
the  top.  A Chinaman  was  at  each  end  of  a pole, 
and  between  the  poles  were  puppies  and  rats  dangling. 
This  juvenile  representation  has  been  indignantly  de- 
nied as  a slander  not  long  since  in  the  Presbyterian. 
But  its  truth  so  far  as  Canton,  at  least,  is  concerned 
must  be  confessed ; our  eyes  have  seen  dogs  in  market 
skinned,  with  a tuft  of  hair  on  their  tails,  and 
their  claws  left  to  prove  the  genuineness  of  the  article ; 
we  saw  them  cooking  and  cooked,  and  men  at  work 
on  these  canine  dainties.  All  this  was  seen  in  several 
markets.  In  the  cat  meat  market  is  a pot  sim- 
mering day  and  night  over  which  is  a placard, 
“Pure  sweet  black  cat  always  on  hand.’’  This  is  a 
dainty,  and  is  very  scarce  and  expensive.  It  is 
eaten  to  renew  flagging  courage,  and  is  valuable 
in  fitting  the  Chinese  for  fighting.  The  govern- 
ment has  not  the  wealth  to  purchase  this  aid  to 
courage,  and  so  the  Chinese  have  often  been  worsted 


) 


131 

because  they  have  not  much  pluck  of  their  own. 
There  are  also  rats  dressed,  rat  sausage,  and  dried  or 
jerked  rats.  So  that  the  glowing  account  given  of 
Chinese  progress  is  not  manifest  in  Canton,  and  cer- 
tainly not  in  any  adaptation  to  civilized  ideas  as  to 
food. 

The  fact  is  clear,  that  nothing  but  a national  earth- 
quake will  shake  this  people  out  of  their  ancient 
ideas  and  habits.  Those  who  have  lived  in  America 
are  never  again  happy  at  home.  Even  with  their 
limited  opportunities  here,  they  see  and  learn  too 
much  to  go  backward,  and  will  move  forward  ever 
after,  be  it  ever  so  slowly.  The  greatest  obstacle  in  the 
way  of  Chinese  progress  is  the  almost  insuperable 
difficulty  in  reaching  the  masses.  Even  Chinese  cul- 
ture, such  as  it  is,  is  only  partial,  and  belongs  to 
the  few  rather  than  to  the  many.  All  the  influences 
from  contact  with  other  nations  and  with  mission  work 
of  every  kind  have  not  produced  a shimmer  on  the 
edges  of  the  heaving  masses!  There  are  millions  who 
have  been  no  more  affected  by  them  than  an  iceberg 
is  by  moonlight. 

The  modes  of  transfer  of  humanity  are  peculiar. 
The  trundle  of  wheels  is  not  known  in  the  native  cities 
in  China;  all  passengers  from  place  to  place  are  carried 
in  a square  box  or  palanquin  suspended  between  poles, 
which  rest  on  the  shoulders  of  the  bearers.  When  the 
load  is  heavy,  four  will  take  it  on  their  backs  and  shoul- 
ders. In  these  narrow  streets  those  carrying  bundles 
have  the  right  of  way;  and  their  peculiar  call  to  clear 
the  way  is  always  in  hearing.  The  front  man,  when  a 
corner  is  to  be  turned,  calls  to  the  rear  man  to  harmon- 
ize his  end  to  the  movement.  The  curiosity  of  the  people 
amounts  to  impertinence ; they  come  up  and  remove 


132 


the  curtains  from  the  sedan  chairs  to  examine  the 
European  or  American,  and  take  hold  of  their  gar- 
ments, inspect  them  and  remark  on  them.  There  is 
not  another  nation,  unless  it  be  the  African  savages, 
that  will  take  such  liberties;  and  their  disgusting  re- 
marks about  foreign  ladies  on  the  street  are  often  so 
low  that  a man  blushes  as  he  hears  them,  and  feels 
that  it  would  be  a pleasing  exercise  to  knock  them 
“ into  the  middle  of  the  next  week.”  The  insolence 
of  the  nation  to  foreigners  is  proverbial.  They  are 
cowards,  and  if  an  European  calls  them  to  a stern 
account  they  will  cringe  like  dogs,  and  beg  pardon, 
but  will  go  away  cursing  in  their  hearts. 

The  educated  classes,  as  they  are  called,  are  the 
instigators  of  this  insolence,  which  will  some  day 
cost  them  another  war.  The  Viceroy  of  this  district 
has  cherished  this  hatred  to  foreigners  until  it  has 
become  a mania.  He  is  starting  a college  which  is 
said  to  have  been  inspired  to  counteract  the  proposed 
American  college,  the  funds  for  which  have  been 
secured  by  Dr.  Happer  in  the  United  States.  Whether 
this  be  his  motive  or  not  for  the  movement,  he  has 
enough  of  this  hateful  animus  to  hinder  or  destroy  it 
if  he  could. 

The  buildings  of  the  Viceroy’s  College  are  immense 
in  extent,  covering  twenty  acres  of  ground  walled  in, 
with  a surrounding  moat.  They  are  one  story  high, 
of  the  blue  brick  of  the  country,  laid  in  and  pointed 
with  white  mortar.  The  brick  work  is  not  good, 
the  walls  wind,  and  the  horizontal  lines  are  not  level. 
The  architectural  construction  of  the  roof  is  heavy 
and  clumsy ; the  trusses  are  made  of  round  logs ; and 
the  ends  are  cut  to  fit  sections  of  their  circles.  There  is 
provision  for  stalls  which  are  to  be  the  abiding  places 


133 


of  the  students,  with  floors  of  porous  red  tiles  laid  on 
the  ground.  The  brick  walls  will  have  no  ornamen- 
tation but  white  or  colored  wash.  The  buildings  give 
the  impression  of  being  designed  for  military  and  naval 
education.  The  prospect  of  a new  American  College 
has  taken  hold  on  the  minds  of  many  progressive  Chi- 
nese as  well  as  the  Christian  population.  There  was  a 
movement  on  foot  by  the  Chinese  gentry  toward  rais- 
ing money  for  the  buildings.  There  is  no  doubt  that 
the  money  can  be  raised ; the  only  question  is  as  to 
the  place  in  its  control  which  they  may  demand. 

This  might  render  their  gifts  a curse  rather  than  a 
blessing,  but  it  is  thought  that  all  can  be  so  managed 
as  to  have  co-operation  without  domination.  There 
is  no  doubt  as  to  the  securing  of  students ; many  have 
•already  signified  their  determination  to  enter  as  soon 
as  it  is  organized,  and  others  will  leave  the  native  in- 
stitutions which  do  nothing  toward  preparing  men  for 
the  life  of  the  times.  The  Chinese  teachers  have  no 
ideas  of  modern  scientific  progress ; their  pride  is  in 
their  old  classics,  at  best  but  literary  patch- work.  An 
education,  according  to  Chinese  ideas,  is  simply  an 
entombing  of  the  mind  and  its  activities  in  a highly 
ornamented  Chinese  sepulchre.  Christian  civilization 
is  what  China  needs,  and  many  of  her  people  are 
coming  to  know  it,  and  are  ready  to  walk  out  of  the 
sw0,ddling  bands  of  walled  China  or  of  China  in  her 
ancient  comatose  state.  The  people  are  constitution- 
ally above  the  average  of  Orientals.  The  Chinaman 
is  conservative,  slow  in  movement,  but  has  a stead- 
fastness of  character  which,  set  in  the  direction  of 
good,  will  make  him  a power  in  the  world. 

Opportunity  was  afi’orded  us  in  an  unexpected  man- 
ner to  see  something  of  higher  social  life  at  a wedding 


134 


in  the  chapel  of  the  Second  church,  better  known  as 
the  Hospital  chapel.  The  bridegroom,  Mr.  Liang 
Yang,  was  a nephew  of  Yung  Wing,  who  married 
lately  in  New  England.  He  was  a handsome  young 
man,  who  had  been  in  America  and  partially 
educated  there.  He  desired  to  be  married  by  Chris- 
tian ceremonies.  His  wife  was  the  niece  of  a China- 
man who  studied  medicine  in  Edinburgh,  and  had 
amassed  a fortune,  which  the  bride  inherited.  She 
was  about  ten  year  older  than  the  groom,  and  had 
determined  not  to  marry,  and  according  to  the  cus- 
tom had  signified  an  intention  of  perpetual  celibacy 
by  putting  up  her  hair,  but  the  sight  of  this  young 
man  caused  her  to  take  it  down  again.  There  is  a 
custom  in  China  which  permits  a man  to  wear  royal 
ciolors  just  one  day  in  his  life.  Accordingly  the 
groom  appeared  crowned  with  a red  head-covering. 
The  bride  was  about  the  usual  height,  and  walked 
awkwardly  on  her  compressed  feet.  They  did  not 
enter  the  church  together.  He  came  first,  and  waited 
a long  time  on  her  movements,  not  without  indica- 
tions of  nervousness,  for  her  mother  was  exceedingly 
hostile  to  the  union,  and  left  no  possible  means  unused 
to  break  it  up,  so  that  he  had  reason  to  pace  about  dis- 
quietedly.  The  lady  had,  however,  a will  of  her  own 
and  also  the  sinews  of  conquest. 

It  is  a social  requirement  in  China  that  the  bride 
must  go  from  her  own  or  her  parent’s  house,  and  as 
she  could  not  have  a parent’s  home  she  rented  one  for 
herself,  and  from  this  came  to  the  church  accom- 
panied by  her  sister.  The  church  being  divided  so 
that  women  were  on  one  side  and  the  men  on  the  other, 
they  came  down  the  separated  sides  and  met  before 
the  pulpit.  She  was  thoughtful  and  timid ; her  face 


135 


•was  painted;  her  hair  combed  smoothly  back  from 
the  forehead  without  pufis  or  other  front  ornament, 
but  put  in  a peculiar  Chinese  twist,  covered  with  an 
ornamented  head-dress  of  flowers  and  pearls.  Her 
dress  was  a mass  of  elaborate  embroidery. 

The  clergymen  officiating  were  Rev.  Mr.  Wisner,  Dr. 
Phraner,  of  New  York,  and  the  writer.  After  the 
ceremony  all  received  refreshments  in  the  home  of 
Dr.  Kerr,  Superintendent  of  the  Hospital.  Dr. 
Swan,  in  the  same  institution,  was  a friend  of  the 
groom,  and  had  much  to  do  in  bringing  the  cere- 
monies to  an  issue  so  delightful  to  the  couple  mar- 
ried, and  so  interesting  to  those  of  us  who  had  to  take 
their  flrst  lesson  in  the  ways  of  Chinese  social  life, 
modified  and  elevated  by  Christian  affinities  and 
sentiments. 

The  social  life  of  the  English-speaking  people  in 
China  is  delightful.  Isolation  always  draws  together 
genial  spirits ; a small  but  dependent  circle  has  many 
affinities  growing  out  of  common  necessity  as  well  as 
congeniality. 

The  missionaries  are  in  the  lead  in  numbers,  and 
are,  as  a class,  cultivated  and  agreeable.  There  are 
many  others  who  are  engaged  in  professions  and  busi- 
ness and  contribute  a variety  of  taste  and  occupation 
to  the  circle.  Hospitality  is  at  the  heart  of  all  life, 
and  it  is  found  here  in  its  highest  expression.  During 
our  stay  there  was  a daily  round  of  social  entertain- 
ments, not  only  with  the  people  of  our  own  country, 
but  with  the  English  as  well.  It  was  a pleasing  sur- 
prise to  meet  here,  just  half-way  round  the  world,  our 
old  friend.  Dr.  Phraner,  who  left  New  York  for  the 
westward  about  the  same  time  that  our  course  was 
set  to  the  eastward.  It  is  superfluous  to  say  that  he 


136 


is  a genial  companion,  and  full  of  the  facts  and  events 
of  travel — a very  centre  of  intellectual  and  social  life. 

There  is  an  island-strip  of  laud  belonging  to  Great 
Britain  and  France,  on  which  the  consular  agencies 
live  together,  with  many  other  Europeans  so  favored, 
which  is  called  Shamien,  and  is  a centre  of  foreign 
official,  commercial  and  social  life.  Here  is  the 
residence  of  the  American  Consul,  Mr.  Seymour, 
a citizen  of  the  State  of  Wisconsin.  He  is  a great 
favorite  with  his  countrymen  of  all  parties,  and  has 
honored  his  office  more  than  it  has  honored  him ; 
a man  whose  personal  character  dignifies  his  official 
standing,  and  is  of  grander  proportions  than  any 
political  office  can  confer.  He  has  rescued  his  fellow- 
countrymen  from  the  great  perils  of  two  insurrections 
by  his  firmness  and  quiet  fearlessness.  He  not  * only 
saves  from  danger,  but  ever  keeps  a sharp  eye  upon 
their  best  interests,  and  is  so  firm  and  yet  so  moderate 
in  temper  and  honest  in  his  demands  that  the  Chinese 
officials  usually  grant  what  he  asks.  Therefore  he 
has  the  respect  of  the  Chinese  and  the  devotion  of 
his  countrymen.  His  hospitality  was  extended  to  us 
in  genuine  American  fashion,  and  an  evening  passed 
quickly  in  the  society  of  himself  and  accomplished 
wife  and  daughter,  together  with  the  coterie^of  friends 
he  had  invited.  He  gave  us  a very  interesting  esti- 
mate of  the  progress  and  future  of  foreign  missions 
in  China.  His  testimony  is  of  especial  value,  as  it 
is  given  by  one  who  looks  from  an  outside  point 
of  observation,  and  speaks  in  the  light  of  a statesman. 
Furthermore,  though  a man  of  religious  conviction 
and  appreciations,  he  is  not,  as  we  understand,  in  con- 
nection with  any  branch  of  the  church. 

'He  spoke  of  the  slowness  of  Chinese  minds  to 


137 


receive  any  ideas  of  which  they  have  had  no  ex- 
perience, and  that  the  Christian  religion  had  hardly 
an  analogy  in  all  that  they  knew  of  God  or  of  any 
relation  he  may  sustain  to  the  race.  It  is  all  a new 
creation  to  them — an  amazement  if  they  think  about 
it  at  all,  and  altogether  too  strange  to  be  suggestive. 
But,  said  he,  ‘‘it  is  making  its  way  against  all  this 
silently  and  apparently  inoperatively,  but  I have 
seen  the  steadfastness  of  those  who  have  received  it, 
and  believe  that  when  once  it  is  received  they  will  hold 
to  it  with  greater  tenacity  than  to  their  present  forms 
and  customs  of  belief.’’  He  did  not  give  examples, 
but  in  the  church  ministered  to  by  the  Rev.  B.  C. 
Henry  we  saw  two  men  whom  the  pastor  said  were 
very  useful,  and  added  that  during  the  last  riots 
they  were  arrested  and  put  in  prison  cages,  and  did  not 
know  what  moment  their  heads  would  be  cut  off. 
“They  were  as  faithful  in  the  prison  cages  as  here 
in  the  church  to-day.”  “How  did  they  get  out?” 
was  the  anxious  question.  “ O,  our  Consul  got  them 
out.” 

In  this  strange  way  we  found  out  some  of  the  cases 
that  tended  to  assure  the  Consul  of  the  Christian 
stability  of  the  Chinese.  ' How  many  more  he  saw 
in  trial  we  do  not  know,  but  he  spoke  as  one  having 
knowledge.  He  gave  us  another  element  in  Chinese 
character  which  would  tell  in  the  extension  of  the 
Christian  religion  among  them.  This  relates  to  the 
despotic  power  in  the  family  of  the  wife  and  mother 
in  arranging  for  the  future  of  her  children.  A China- 
man loved  a young  woman  and  desired  to  marry  her ; 
but  his  mother  had  arranged  a marriage  for  him. 
For  a long  time  he  resisted,  and  left  his  home  to  get 
away  from  it.  But  his  mother  came  a long  distance 


138 


to  bring  him  to  terms.  He  at  last  consented  to  make 
a visit  home,  still  declaring  that  he  would  not  obey ; 
but  after  his  return  he  was  questioned  as  to  the  result, 
when  he  said,  “Yes,  I had  to  submit  to  my  mother.’’ 
Said  the  Consul,  “ With  such  power  over  their  children, 
how  resistless  will  these  Chinese  women  become  if 
Christianized — when  right  instead  of  might  shall  con- 
trol both  their  convictions  and  actions.”  He  also- 
spoke  of  the  ability  and  faithfulness  of  the  missionaries 
in  general  in  their  work,  and  looked  forward  to  the 
time  when  this  should  result  in  harvest. 

Such  is  an  outline  of  his  views  as  nearly  as  can  now 
be  recalled,  though  not  stated  so  forcefully.  Such 
testimonies  are  in  manly,  truthful  contrast  with  those 
given  by  many  in  official  position  who  represent 
our  government,  but  who  have  no  sympathy  with 
those  of  their  countrymen  who  have  left  their  homes 
to  endure  the  danger  and  discomforts  of  foreign  resi- 
dence in  order  to  elevate  those  who  have  fallen  behind 
in  the  march  of  life.  Usually  these  self-sacrificing 
men  are  superior  in  learning,  in  talents,  in  social  posi* 
tion  at  home  and  abroad,  and  receive  meagre  salaries 
for  their  services,  yet  are  snubbed  abroad  and  traduced 
at  home  by  officials  whose  very  bones  and  marrow 
have  been  made  by  public  benefactions,  who  will 
not  take  the  trouble  to  see  what  they  are  doing  lest, 
the  truth  might  compel  them  to  be  honest.  It  is  by 
such  men,  and  others  who  are  living  dissipated  lives 
abroad,  and  to  whom  the  missionary  is  a reproach, 
that  most  of  the  adverse  gossip  is  manufactured  for 
the  use  of  vagabond  correspondei>ts  of  secular  papers. 
They  never  take  a step  in  the  direction  of  the  hundreds 
of  schools  and  thousands  of  heathen  children  whom 
devoted  men  and  women  are  instructing.  They  never 


139 


cross  the  threshold  of  the  hospitals,  where  earnest 
work  is  beiag  done  without  other  reward  except  the 
comfort  that  the  relief  of  sufferings  give.  They  never 
go  into  the  orphanages  to  see  the  washed  and  fed  and 
well  taught  waifs,  picked  up  in  alleys  and  commons. 
If  such  people  do  not  like  the  churches,  why  then 
have  they  not  the  common  honesty  and  decency  to 
praise  the  humanity  displayed  by  men  and  women  who 
work  amidst  daily  self-denials,  come  in  contact  with 
uncleanness,  and  breathe  the  continuous  taint  of 
diseases  as  horrible  as  leprosy? 

CHAPTER  XII. 

SCENES  AND  OBSEE  VA  TIONS  ON  THE  COAST  OF  CHINA 

The  coast  of  the  Chinese  Sea  is  peculiar  in  respect 
to  ruggedness,  bareness  and  fertility.  The  rocks 
are  volcanic,  and  lie  on  each  other  in  the  confusion 
incident  to  stupendous  upheaval.  Some  of  these  rock- 
built  mountain  conformations  reach  an  abrupt  eleva- 
tion of  one  thousand  feet;  between  are  deep  depres- 
sions, dreary  and  lifeless.  Then  between  these  pro- 
montories and  walls  are  stretches  of  plain  fertile  and 
attractive.  Between  Hong  Kong  and  Shanghai  are 
seen  these  diversities ; in  the  midst  of  some  of  them 
are  little  cities  spread  on  the  plains  or  perched  on 
the  mountain  sides.  One  of  these  is  Swatow.  The 
place  is  almost  entirely  inhabited  by  Chinese,  except 
the  missionaries. 

The  native  houses  are  poor ; the  streets  are  narrow 
and  filthy.  They  have  about  as  much  indication  of 
order  as  is  found  in  Washington  Irving’s  description 
of  the  city  of  New  Amsterdam,  when  civilization 


140 


followed  the  trails  and  browsings  of  the  cows  in  their 
meanderings  over  the  rocky  hills  on  which  New 
York  now  stands.  There  is  nothing  in  Swatow  which 
will  be  of  any  interest  except  the  missionary  work  of 
our  own  countrymen  under  the  auspices  of  the  Ameri- 
can Baptist  Missionary  Union,  and  of  the  English 
Presbyterians.  Both  of  these  missions  are  prosperous. 
This  is  the  field  of  labor  of  Miss  Adele  M.  Fields,  so 
well-known  through  her  devotion  to  mission  work  at 
home  and  in  China,  and  the  author  of  the  interest- 
ing little  book  entitled  “Pagoda  Shadows.”  The 
beginning  of  her  missionary  life  may  be  familiar 
to  some  of  our  readers,  but  will  be  new  to  most 
and  is  full  of  pathetic  interest.  It  may  not  be  accu- 
rate in  all  particulars,  but  the  story  is  that  she  was 
betrothed  to  a promising  young  missionary  in  Swatow, 
who  had  provided  a home  for  his  betrothed  wife, 
furnished  it  with  the  enthusiasm  of  a young  man  for 
the  love  of  his  heart,  and  counted  the  hours  of  her 
coming.  But  on  the  very  day  she  sailed  he  died,  and 
when  she  arrived,  flushed  with  hopes  so  near  realiza- 
tion, the  sad  tale  of  her  henceforth  widowed  heart  was 
told  her.  She  staggered  under  the  blow,  but  did  not 
fall,  save  into  martyr-fortitude.  She  entered  the  home 
provided  for  her,  where  every  object  revealed  both 
the  love  of  his  heart  and  the  work  of  his  hands.  She 
wiped  her  tears  away,  for  they  were  not  hopeless,  and 
then  became  his  in  a higher  sense,  by  doing  the  work 
he  had  left  her  to  do,  and  thus  gaining  the  blessings 
<)f  both,  in  a career  of  usefulness  which  reads  like  a 
romance. 

On  another  rock- built  coast  nearer  Shanghai  is 
Amoy.  Behind  are  gray-stone  mountains,  not  re- 
lieved by  any  evidence  of  vegetation.  The  city  lies 


141 


in  a curve,  presenting  the  same  general  characteristics 
of  all  native  towns  and  cities.  There  is  a European 
quarter,  which  is  inviting.  It  is  occupied  by  mission- 
aries and  others,  whose  business  compels  them  to  be 
exiles  from  their  own  land.  The  mission  work  here 
is  divided  between  the  English  Presbyterians,  the 
Reformed  of  our  own  country,  known  better  as  the 
Dutch,  and  the  London  Mission ; all  are  unusually 
prosperous.  Dr.  Talmage,  brother  of  the  noted 
preacher  of  the  Brooklyn  Tabernacle,  and  Rev.  I. 
MacGowan,  of  the  London  Missionary  Society,  have 
become  centres  of  power.  The  work  of  the  English 
Presbyterian  Church  and  the  American  Reformed 
(Dutch)  Church  is  one  of  the  most  prosperous  in  all 
China. 

The  Reformed  have  five  missionaries  in  Swatow. 
In  Amoy  and  Swatow  they  have  twenty-one.  The 
English  have  five  ordained  native  missionaries  and  a 
membership  in  all  their  stations  of  3,553  communi- 
cants. In  the  Reformed  Mission  are  Drs.  Talmage, 
Kipp  and  Vandyke.  Both  the  English  and  Reformed 
have  prosperous  schools.  There  is  a bit  of  romance 
about  these  missions  which  will  be  of  interest.  Drs. 
Culbertson  and  Bridgeman,  pioneer  missionaries  in 
China,  were  with  their  families  on  a ship  which  struck 
a rock,  and  in  addition  to  other  injuries,  lost  her 
anchor,  and  had  to  put  into  Amoy  to  get  another; 
and  this  movement  caused  another  result  more  re- 
markable. The  Rev.  Mr.  Kipp  was  wifeless  at  this 
time,  and  the  disabled  ship  and  a kind  Providence 
brought  him  through  that  disaster  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  Christian  woman  in  all  China. 

But  no  phase  of  the  mission  work  in  China  is  more 
wonderful  than  that  of  the  London  Mission  Society, 


142 


as  presented  in  a pamphlet  by  Rev.  I.  MacGowan  in 
the  form  of  a history  of  self-support.  There  is  no 
subject  connected  with  foreign  Christian  work  looming 
up  with  such  vital  importance  as  this.  The  life  of  the 
church  in  heathen  lands  is  involved  in  it.  For  a de- 
pendant church  is  at  first  a cripple,  and  afterward  a 
dead  church.  Babyhood  is  a condition  in  order  to 
manhood,  but  is  not  reached  until  the  ability  for  self-  . 
support  is  developed.  If  these  missions  cannot  assume 
the  functions  of  life  the  church  might  as  well  finish 
its  missions  efforts  by  the  purchase  of  coffins,  and 
interring  therein  its  helpless  dead.  A quarter  of  a 
century  is  long  enough  for  infancy.  It  is  long  enough 
to  feed  any  living  organism  out  of  a spoon ; and  if 
its  limbs  cannot  be  strengthened  and  the  use  of 
them  obtained  through  self-care  it  will  always  be  a 
paralytic  lying  at  the  beautiful  gate  of  Christian 
charity.  Self-support  is  therefore  the  unsolved  prob- 
lem in  connection  with  evangelizing  of  the  world,  and 
will,  like  the  doctrine  of  justification  of  faith,  though 
in  another  sense,  become  the  test  of  a standing  or  fall- 
ing church.  Any  hopeful  effort  in  this  direction  will 
be  hailed  with  delight  as  the  harbinger  of  final  victory 
in  accomplishing  the  world’s  salvation.  There  are 
two  disastrous  influences  going  out  from  the  chronic 
helplessness  of  many  of  our  older  missions.  One  is  the 
general  impotency  of  the  missions,  which  can  never  be 
transformed  into  churches,  and  so  must  be  stinted  in 
their  growth  and  ugly  in  their  proportions,  and  have 
the  rickets  or  other  like  deformities.  On  the  other 
hand,  the  nurturing  mother  churches  will  become  cross 
because  they  cannot  wean  these  life  sucking  depen- 
dencies. Another  deleterious  influence  is  the  impres- 
sion made  upon  heathen  that  the  home  churches  are 


143 


simply  subsidizing  institutions,  so  that  after  sitting  like 
tailors  on  their  limbs  until  they  are  asleep  they  can 
never  be  persuaded  to  put  them  out  for  the  purpose  of 
motion,  or  to  develop  their  strength. 

The  year  1866  was  an  eventful  one  in  the  work  of 
the  London  Missionary  Society  in  Amoy.  It  was  the 
beginning  of  an  experiment  in  the  direction  of  an 
attempt  to  make  the  church  indigenous  to  the  soil,  and 
to  give  it  the  robustness,  the  activity,  the  self-respect, 
caused  by  the  consciousness  of  self-propelling  power. 
The  first  efibrt  was  to  cut  off  the  appropriation  by 
the  parent  society  for  incidental  expenses  amounting 
to  two  dollars  a month,  devoted  to  the  purchase  of 
oil  for  the  lamps,  tea,  coffee,  tobacco,  &c.,  to  entertain 
visitors  in  Oriental  fashion,  customs  of  hospitality 
which  were  at  that  time  essential  to  public  good  will. 
This  is  the  Chinese  idea  of  the  command,  “ Be  not 
forgetful  to  entertain  strangers.”  The  reduction  pro- 
duced murmuring.  But  it  was  a good  place  to  begin 
showing  these  Christians  the  absurdity  of  expecting 
other  people  to  do  their  hospitality.  The  missionaries 
then  told  them  about  the  story  of  Nathan  to  David, 
or  of  the  man  that  spared  his  own  flock  and  took  the 
poor  man’s  lamb.  They  soon  saw  the  point;  and 
stingy  as  they  are  by  nature  they  began  to  ridicule 
such  hospitality,  and  soon  furnished  these  delicacies 
themselves  and  denounced  them  in  other  churches. 
The  next  move  was  to  get  the  members  to  subscribe 
to  their  minister’s  salary.  All  the  Scriptures  bearing 
on  the  subject  were  well  ventilated  before  they  saw 
where  the  missionary  was  driving.  After  they  had 
gotten  them  into  the  humor  of  nodding  as  each  truth 
was  advanced,  they  got  them  to  talking  in  the  same 
direction.  They  gave  them  all  a chance  to  do  a. 


'144 


little  amateur  preaching  until  they  liked  it  and  were 
well  up  on  the  subject.  Then  they  sent  them  out 
into  other  congregations  to  preach  on  the  subject. 
After  they  had  enjoyed  the  matter  in  the  form  of 
opinions  Dr.  MacGowan  brought  it  home  in  the  form 
of  practical  application.  Some  had  anticipated  him, 
and  had  already  adjusted  themselves  t)  the  situation; 
others  were  startled  as  by  a flash  of  lightning  from  a 
clear  sky ; others  became  cross  and  ill  tempered  and 
began  to  prophesy  evil.  The  stingy  ones  thought  it 
was  so  uncharitable  to  think  that  the  churches  in 
England  did  not  want  to  continue  their  help  to  the 
poor  people  of  China.  But  the  minister  showed  them 
that  the  money  which  had  supported  them  so  long 
ought  to  go  to  start  churches  where  men  had  never 
heard  the  gospel. 

At  last  the  day  of  trial  came.  After  preaching 
on  the  subject  the  minister  announced  his  purpose 
and  asked  a deacon,  whose  opinions  he  well  knew, 
to  come  forward  and  subscribe.  Then  followed  a scene 
full  of  the  elements  of  fine  humor,  mingled  with  smiles, 
frowns  and  perturbations.  The  first  man  that  re- 
sponded to  his  appeal  got  up,  and  stated  that  he 
thought  it  was  only  right  that  they  should  subscribe 
towards  their  self-support.  He  was  not  at  all  well 
off*  himself,  he  said,  but  he  had  been  thinking  over 
the  matter  very  seriously,  and  he  had  decided  to  give 
one  hundred  cash  a month.  Soon  a surly  specimen 
was  attacked,  the  richest  man  in  the  lot.  He  assumed 
the  pious  tone,  and  quoted  Scripture  on  the  other  side. 
He  flung  his  passages  about  wildly.  He  struck  some 
of  his  brethren  hard  who  had  subscribed  about  pay- 
ing their  debts  before  being  liberal.  They  took  his 
tilts  about  hypocrisy  and  showing  ofli  as  well  as  they 


145 


could,  and  kept  right  on  plying  him  first  with  one 
argument  and  then  another. 

They  spoke  of  the  joy  that  came  from  giving  a portion 
of  their  substance  to  the  Lord,  and  showed  that  they 
as  Chinamen  should  be  above  taking  help  from  others 
when  they  could  assist  themselves.  The  heathen,  they 
said,  had  reproached  them,  telling  them  that  theirs 
was  a foreign  religion,  and  that  they  were  supported 
by  foreign  money.  It  lay  with  themselves  to  com- 
' bine  and  take  away  this  reproach.  From  every 
side  voices  were  heard  urging  him  to  allow  his  name 
to  be  put  down.  The  deacon  with  pen  in  hand, 
moving  impatiently  over  the  paper,  implored  him  to 
mention  some  sum  that  he  could  record.  At  last  the 
man  was  touched  ; there  was  a weak  spot  in  his  heart 
after  all,  and  there  was  a power  that  could  unloose 
the  hard  grip  with  which  he  held  his  money.  I am 
sorry  to  say  it  was  not  the  highest  motive  that  had 
made  him  yield.  It  was  shame.  He  could  not 
endure  the  quiet  irony  that  had  been  gently  and 
delicately  mixed  in  the  arguments  of  some  of  the 
brethren,  and  so  in  desperation  he  blurted  out,  “Well! 
I’ll  subscribe  fifty  cash  a month  I ” There  was  a look 
of  amazement  on  the  faces  of  all  around,  and  many 
protests  were  raised  against  such  a paltry  sum  being 
received.  It  was  indeed  ridiculously  out  of  propor- 
tion to  the  man’s  means,  “ but  I decided,”  said  the 
missionary,  “that  this  would  do  for  the  present.  We 
had  gained  a great  victory.  We  had  got  him  to  give 
something,  and  I hoped  that  in  the  future,  as  his  soul 
grew,  his  liberality  would  grow  also.”  This  picture 
of  the  first  effort  in  China  at  church  self-support 
among  the  men  of  strange  visages  and  vestures  is 
not  different  from  thousands  of  scenes  of  like  character 


148 


at  home,  where  both  money  and  experience  are  more 
abundant,  and  it  was  a magnificent  success. 

The  next  boom  that  self-support  received  *was 
another  surprise.  A native  church  had  been  going 
down ; some  thought  it  was  owing  to  a bad  location, 
while  others  mentioned  hindrances  of  other  kinds. 
The  deacons  knew  the  true  cause  and  were  serious 
over  it,  they  said  » they  were  not  satisfied  with  the 
preacher  that  had  been  sent  to  them,  and  suggested  a 
change  to  one  who  was  a great  favorite.  The  mis- 
sionaries were  slow  to  accept  the  suggestion,  but  at  last 
thought  they  would  put  a stop  to  the  fruitless  talk. 
They  said,  “ Yes,  the  mission  will  give  him  to  you  if 
you  will  support  him,  but  you  must  not  ask  the  mis- 
sion for  any  help.”  They  objected,  but  the  mission- 
aries would  not  relax,  and  the  Chinese  would  not 
give  up  their  purpose ; so  when  they  all  met  again  it 
was  to  say  that  the  salary  was  all  raised.  This  was 
the  beginning  of  a new  era  in  the  history  of  the 
church ; for  the  knowledge  of  the  independence  of  this 
church  spread  to  others,  who  had  secretly  chafed  under 
the  custom  of  the  missions  appointing  their  ministers. 

The  Chinese  remind  us  of  the  man  who,  speaking 
of  the  contrary  characteristics  of  a wild  pig,  said, 
“ I had  to  pull  his  ears  out  to  get  him  to  the  trough, 
and  then  I had  to  pull  his  tail  out  to  get  him  away.” 
Small  churches,  so  weak  that  they  could  not  engage 
in  worship  without  leaning  against  some  object  of 
support,  now  started  up  with  the  spirit  of  young 
giants  refreshed  with  wine.  AYe  might  multiply  ex- 
amples of  the  changes  from  subserviency  to  Chris- 
tian manhood  under  this  new  birth  into  self  respect, 
but  this  will  show  the  drift.  It  will  reveal  the  vital 
relation  between  self-support  and  church  extension. 


147 


No  church  ever  yet  gave  itself  up  to  church  extension 
until  it  was  able  to  take  care  of  itself.  One  of  these 
self-supporting  churches  made  up  its  mind  to  occupy 
a city  centre;  the  mother  church  was  in  the  country. 
The  mission  discouraged  them,  but  they  persisted  until 
they  promised  that  the  new  church  should  never  come 
on  the  mission  for  any  part  of  its  support.  The  people 
were  as  good  as  their  word ; and  this  one  of  their  own 
forming  is  one  of  the  largest  and  liveliest  in  the  whole 
mission.  And  all  this  throws  light  on  the  future 
policy  of  the  church  in  China. 

The  time  will  come  when  mission  work  will  be  con- 
fined to  the  education  of  a native  ministry  to  the  work 
of  founding  and  general  superintendence,  leaving  the 
individual  churches  to  the  management  of  their  own 
church  affairs,  the . mission  only  looking  after  the 
doctrines  preached,  and  advising  where  it  is  needed. 
These  Chinese  pastors  are,  in  the  administration  of 
their  parishes  and  in  their  ecclesiastical  bodies,  strict 
constructionists.  The  Presbyterian  missionaries  in 
Ningpo  pointed  us  to  two  native  pastors,  and  said 
these  men  contend  with  us  in  Presbytery  for  the  strict 
<jonstruction  of  the  Form  of  Government,  and  they 
will  not  give  up  until  they  are  satisfied  that  they  are 
in  the  exact  line  of  conformity.  This,  of  course,  is 
helped  by  the  conservative  character  of  the  people. 
The  following  is  the  result  of  the  effort  at  self-support 
made  in  the  London  Mission  of  Amoy.  When  they 
commenced  in  1866  they  had  eight  principal  stations 
and  two  out  stations,  all  of  which  were  practically 
supported  by  the  mission.  To-day  they  have  twenty- 
five  of  the  former,  and  twenty-three  of  the  latter. 
Nineteen  of  the  principal  stations  are  not  only  self- 
supporting,  but  maintain  fourteen  of  the  out  stations. 


148 


The  condition  and  administration  of  rne  govern- 
ment exhibit  a side  of  the  Chinese  moral  and 
political  character  which  should  not  be  overlooked. 
The  government  is  despotic  ; whatever  irs  theories  may 
be,  practically  it  is  oppressive  in  the  extreme.  The 
country  is  governed  by  mandarins,  who  raise  the 
revenues,  squeeze  the  people,  and  keep  the  peace.  An 
example  which  occurred  near  Ningpo  will  show  the 
methods  of  Chinese  administration.  A man’s  inheri- 
tance was  an  island,  and  from  time  beyond  memory 
it  had  been  in  his  family.  Butthe  river  had  been 
depositing  sediment  and  in  creasing  his  acreage. 
The  land  sharks,  the  mandarins,  discovered  this, 
and  levied  higher  taxes,  but  the  incumbent  re- 
fused to  pay,  saying,  “The  river  may  take  away 
a part  of  my  inheritance ; will  the  government  then 
lower  my  taxes  correspondingly?”  They  replied,^ 
“ That  had  nothing  to  do  with  it ; that  would  be  in 
the  future,  this  was  in  the  present.”  They  sent, 
the  tax  gatherer,  and  the  farmer  and  his  sons  carried 
him  to  the  other  shore.  Then  the  police  came,  and 
the  farmer’s  neighbors  helped  him  and  gave  them  a 
drubbing.  Then  soldiers  came,  and,  capturing  the 
culprits,  cut  their  heads  off,  also  those  of  their  sons 
over  fifteen,  and  the  heads  r ff  all  the  neighbors,  who 
had  engaged  in  the  contest,  expatriated  their  children,, 
and  thus  satisfied  the  demands  of  the  paternal  govern- 
ment. 

There  is  a quiet  antagonism  going  on  between  the 
native  Chinese  and  the  Tartar  dynasty.  But  the  pres- 
ent administration  makes  short  work  with  those  upon 
whom  the  suspicion  of  disloyalty  rests.  They  are 
arrested  and  decapitated  without  formality.  During 
the  war  with  the  French  many,  who  had  not  been 


149 


known  to  have  had  even  disloyal  thoughts,  were  carried 
beyond  the  gates  and  beheaded,  so  that  the  people  do 
not  know  what  may  come  next;  they  are  forever 
dazed  by  uncertainty.  The  late  Marquis  Tseng  a 
short  time  before  his  death  had  a number  of  men 
taken  outside  of  the  gate,  and  their  heads  cut  off  with- 
out trial  for  robbing  the  grave  of  his  daughter  of 
trinkets  and  offerings.  This  man,  then  over  eighty 
years  old,  saw  the  conduct  of  all  the  foreign  minis- 
ters about  the  thhone,  and  had  been  himself  a Min- 
ister Plenipotentiary  to  foreign  nations,  but  nothing^ 
modified  his  cruel  spirit. 

The  government  is  poor.  The  marriage  of  the 
young  king  was  deferred  on  account  of  the  poverty 
of  the  exchequer.  The  fortifications  which  they  are” 
building  and  furnishing  at  every  weak  point  are  con- 
suming the  wealth  of  the  Empire.  The  people  are 
poor,  and  what  is  worse,  there  are  no  resources  to 
meet  emergencies.  Political  reconstruction  must  come 
before  prosperity.  There  is  little  doubt  that  it  will 
start,  as  did  the  Tseping  rebellion,  from  some  mind 
enlightened  in  some  of  the  Christian  schools.  No 
government  schools  will  ever  raise  up  a reformer,  for 
their  teachings  are  a.  thousand  years  behind  the  age, 
and  there  is  no  moral  faith,’  nor  even  national  cohesion, 
through  which  the  Empire  can  be  roused,  even  to 
the  purpose  of  turning  over  in  its  coflSn. 

There  is  much  to  be  learned  respecting  the  prevail- 
ing opinions  of  the  people  through  their  customs 
and  idolatries.  They  refer  disputes  for  settlement  to 
wooden  judges.  When  there  is  neither  testimony  nor 
evidence,  a suspected  man  may  swear  himself  innocent 
before  a wooden  god,  and  if  no  judgment  in  the  form 
of  a disaster  follow  he  is  regarded  as  innocent.  Some- 


150 


times  the  brazen-faced  scoundrel  is  overtaken  bj  some 
calamity  after  he  has  cleared  himself;  if  so,  the  injus- 
tice of  the  judgment  is  declared,  and  the  god  becomes 
very  unpopular,  but  the  wrong  is  never  righted.  A 
story  is  told  of  a man  in  Swatow  making  a passage 
in  a boat,  who,  having  fifty  dollars  in  his  pocket,  gave 
it  to  the  captain  for  safe  keeping.  He  put  it  in  his 
cabin,  which  was  entered  by  a trap-door,  on  which  he 
stood  while  steering,  and  was  never  off  it.  Only  one 
man  had  access,  the  boatswain,  and  when  the  money 
was  called  for,  it  could  not  be  found.  The  boatswain 
was  straightway  charged  with  the  theft.  But  he  de- 
clared his  innocence,  and  his  purpose  to  go  before  the 
wooden  judge  and  take  the  oath  of  imprecation  on 
himself  and  all  the  members  of  his  family,  if  he  were 
not  innocent.  One  of  the  imprecations  was  that  he 
should  have  his  leg  broken.  As  he  passed  out  from 
the  temple  he  stumbled  over  the  stone  door-sill,  and 
broke  his  leg,  which  was  considered  positive  proof  of 
guilt.  The  wooden  god  came  at  once  into  great  favor 
with  the  multitude,  and  the  man  was  execrated.  But 
the  captain  returned  to  his  cabin,  overhauled  every 
thing,  and  found  the  fifty  dollars  where  he  had  placed 
them,  when  there  was  another  reversal  of  public  favor, 
and  the  ged  was  execrated.  The  captain,  however, 
acknowledged  the  wrong  he  had  done  the  crippled 
man,  paid  the  doctor  and  the  expenses  of  his  injuries, 
and  left  the  ideas  of  the  community  on  the  advantages 
of  wooden  judges  greatly  muddled. 

Along  the  coast  can  be  seen  fair  specimens  of 
Chinese  houses.  The  Chinese  live  in  villages  both 
from  social  instinct  and  need  of  protection.  There 
are  no  farm-houses.  The  people  do  not  move  about 
much,  and  the  ancestral  spot,  called  home,  is  a place 


151 


of  many  centuries’  association.  The  house  may  grow 
older,  filthier,  and  more  tumble  down  in  appear- 
ance ; but  it  has  a pedigree  of  hundreds  of  years. 
The  house  as  a stable  would  be  apologized  for  in 
England  or  America.  Every  creature,  and  creep- 
ing thing,  fowls  of  the  air  and  fowls  of  the  barn- 
yard, pigs,  goats  and  hares  all  live  and  pursue 
their  natural  avocations  in  the  same  room.  Beside 
all  these  tenants  in  common,  cholera  lives  there  in 
the  summer,  and  smallpox  hides  in  the  dirty  rags  of 
winter,  and  vermin  cling  close  to  the  vital  parts.  In 
bleak  lands  these  houses  are  sometimes  built  of  stone, 
usually  of  a frame  filled  in  with  mud  and  with- 
out windows  because  the  evil  spirits  would  come  in 
to  torment  the  family,  or  go  out  to  torment  their  neigh- 
bors. The  roof  is  made  of  tiles  laid  on  poles,  usually 
of  bamboo.  There  is  but  one  chance  for  air  and 
light — the  door  ; the  floors  are  of  clay  pounded  hard; 
the  furniture  consists  of  bedsteads  of  bamboo  poles. 
The  cooking  range  is  made  of  clay  or  plaster,  with  no 
chimney,  and  the  only  opportunity  for  the  dispersion 
of  the  smoke  is  when  the  door  is  opened.  The  fuel  is 
dried  leaves  and  grass,  which  requires  one  person  to  be 
putting  it  in  all  the  time  to  keep  the  heat  up  for 
eooking  purposes.  There  is  usually  a small  yard,  where 
clothes  and  meat  are  sun-dried.  There  are  sometimes 
a couple  of  rooms  for  the  older  women  of  the  house- 
hold, but  in  this  place  are  stored  away  all  products — 
human,  vegetable,  animal  and  insect. 

When  the  sons  grow  old  enough  to  marry,  and  wives 
are  brought  home  for  them  space  is  apportioned  to 
each  one  under  that  ancestral  roof,  and  their  numerous 
children  live  with  parents  and  grandparents  and 
great-grandparents,  while  the  old  black  sow  with  her 


152 


pigs  pushes  her  way  into  society,  and  the  yellow 
dog  finds  a locality  for  himself,  and  the  buflalo  stands 
with  head  and  shoulders  inside  the  door.  According  to 
European  ideas  that  house  is  both  well  stocked  and 
stored.  E very  nine  hundred  and  ninety-  nine  thousand 
of  the  Chinese  live  in  this  way. 

The  houses  of  the  wealthy  cover  more  ground,  have 
more  carvings,  more  trees,  but  not  more  light  nor 
cleanliness.  There  are  some  reasons  for  this  kind  of 
domicile.  Thieves  are  discouraged  where  there  are  no 
windows.  The  women  cannot  get  ^bout  to  clean  them 
because  of  their  crippled  feet.  The  houses  are  ever  full 
of  the  children  of  three  or  four  generations. 

As  the  effects  of  the  custom  are  before  us,  the 
subject  of  binding  the  feet  may  be  noticed  in  this 
connection.  This  is  the  result  of  the  tyranny  of  fashion, 
which  is  stronger  in  China  than  any  other  country  in 
the  world.  A Christian  father  j ustified  himself  in  hav- 
ing his  daughter’s  feet  bound  by  saying : “ My  daughter 
must,  according  to  the  customs  of  her  country,  be 
married ; I am  not  able  to  support  her,  and  she  cannot 
do  it  herself  as  a single  woman,  with  subjection  to  the 
awful  temptation  to  female  dishonor  or  to  the  social  dis- 
grace that  attaches  to  single  life.  It  breaks  my  heart  to 
think  of  indicting  this  pain  on  her,  which  I know  now 
is  useless  and  wicked.  There  are  not  as  yet  Chris- 
tian young  men  to  marry  the  daughters  of  Christian 
parents ; and  if  there  were,  she  would  always  be  re- 
proached by  the  Chinese,  which  would  be  a shame  to  her 
and  her  husband  as  well ; and  if  she  cannot  marry  a 
Christian,  she  never  can  a native  unless  he  is  of  the 
lowest  and  most  degraded  class.  What  then  can  I do,, 
inffict  physical  pain  or  doom  every  child  to  life  long 
shame  and  dishonor?”  We  leave  the  ethics  of  the  case 


153 


to  those  who  choose  to  speculate  and  proceed  to  describe 
the  mode  of  torture. 

The  well-to-do  bind  the  feet  of  their  daughters  at  six 
or  eight  years,  for  they  can  then  spare  them  from  the 
service  which  poor  girls  must  perform ; the  poor  bind 
their  feet  usually  at  thirteen.  The  change  is  made  en- 
tirely by  bandages,  linen  cloths  being  the  best,  cut  in 
strips  about  two  inches  wide  and  eight  or  ten  feet  long. 
They  begin  by  laying  one  end  of  the  bandage  over  the 
instep,  which  is  then  carried  over  the  four  small  toes, 
pressing  them  down  against  the  sole  of  the  foot ; then 
it  is  passed  under  the  foot,  over  the  instep  and  around 
the  heel,  drawing  the  heel  and  toe  closer  together,  mak- 
ing a bulge  on  the  instep  and  a deep  interstice  on  the 
■ sole  underneath  ; then  the  bandage  follows  the  course 
already  laid  out  until  it  is  entirely  exhausted,  when  the 
end  and  edges  are  sewed  fast  to  each  other. 

Once  a month  the  feet  are  soaked  in  hot  water, 
the  bandages  are  taken  off  and  all  the  dead  cuticles 
and  flesh  scraped  off,  the  foot  brought  into  the 
ideal  shape  by  pressure,  and  bandaged  again  with 
clean  bandages,  the  flesh  being  covered  with  pulver- 
ized alum.  This  must  be  done  quickly,  for  as  soon 
as  circulation  begins,  pain  sets  in  and  swelling 
follows.  After  the  flesh  sloughs  off,  frequently 
the  toes  drop  off ; sometimes  the  nails  grow  into  the 
flesh  on  the  under  side  of  the  foot,  causing  the  in- 
tensest  pain  .This  process  usually  lasts  a year,  and  at 
the  end  of  two  years  the  feet  are  painless.  While  this 
process  is  going  on  the  sufferer  lies  across  the  bed  with 
her  feet  hanging  over  the  side,  swinging  them  back- 
wards and  forwards — moaning,  crying  and  raving, 
filling  up  the  hours  of  this  terrible  ordeal.  When  it  is 
over  a more  disgusting  object  rarely  confronts  human 


154 


gaze.  There  is  little  else  below  the  knee  than 
skin  and  bones.  The  four  small  toes  are  so  twisted 
that  their  ends  may  be  seen  on  the  lower  side  of  the 
foot,  and  the  bones  belonging  to  the  middle  of  the 
foot  are  pressed  into  the  instep.  The  poor  cripple  ' 
walks  ever  after  as  if  on  wooden  pegs,  timidly  and 
awkwardly  shambling  through  life  following  the 
fashion.-  The  bandages  are  always  worn;  the  alum 
powder  is  always  needed  to  disinfect  the  dying  cuticle; 
the  odors  (except  to  love,  we  suppose,)  must  be  un-^ 
bearable,  but  a Chinaman’s  nose  has  no  discriminat- 
ing power.  By  this  practice  more  than  half  the  pro* 
ductive  labor  of  Chinese  women  is  lost,  and  this  in  a 
country  where  there  are  but  two  facts,  the  struggle 
for  existence  and  the  survival  of  the  fittest  is  an 
incalcuable  national  calamity.  It  is  one  of  a pair  of 
national  curses.  The  other  is  child-betrothal  with  its 
paralyzing  obligations.  This  will  be  manifest  from 
the  following  facts.  A wealthy  mandarin  who  lived  in 
Wuchang,  had  a house  walled  up  on  every  side.  Ta 
the  women  within  this  was  the  size  of  their  world.  He 
had  three  beautiful  daughters,  cultured  after  Chinese 
fashion.  Their  embroideries  were  exquisite.  They 
had  in  their  caged  lives  little  to  divert  them,  and 
less  to  improve  their  minds.  They  knew  how  to 
play  cards,  but  even  this  will  not  satisfy  a heathen 
mind.  The  only  alternative  left  was  to  listen  to  the 
gossip  of  old  women  permitted  to  roam  the  streets, 
fortune  tellers  and  moral  scavengers,  and  match 
makers,  for  marriages  in  China  are  arranged  by  mid- 
dle Women,  go-betweens. 

These  anxious  young  ladies  knew  that  they  would 
be  separated  some  day,  and  their  desire  to  know  by 
whom,  how  and  when,  consumed  them  like  fire.  They 


155 


wished,  when  together,  that  it  might  never  be,  but 
this  was  impossible,  for  they  had  all  been  betrothed 
years  before  when  they  were  little  children.  Soon 
they  would  be  sent  for,  and  the  cruel  day  of  parting 
would  come.  The  day  came  at  last  when  the  nest 
was  to  be  broken,  and  the  fledglings  were  to  be 
perched  under  other  roofs.  Their  father  had  died 
since  their  betrothals,  and  what  looked  fair  to  him  waa 
all  frost-bitten  now,  a decayed  and  worthless  thing. 
The  little  boy,  six  years  old,  who  was  to  be  the  hus- 
band of  the  eldest  daughter,  had,  after  the  betrothal, 
fallen  on  a stone  and  broken  his  skull,  and  had  never 
even  a gleam  of  intelligence  afterwards;  he  was  a 
hopeless  idiot,  and  his  friends  said  it  was  caused  by 
his  betrothal  to  this  girl.  Evil  influences  on  her 
account  had  destroyed  him,  so  she  had  an  idiot  for  a 
husband  and  the  wrath  of  a mother-in-law,  with  whom 
she  must  always  live,  arrayed  against  her  as  the  de- 
stroyer of  her  only  son.  The  news  next  came  to  the 
second  sister  and  her  heart  was  crushed,  but  through 
another  form  of  calamity.  When  her  father  betrothed 
her,  the  family  of  her  husband  was  rich  and  held 
honorable  place  under  government.  But  the  father 
was  cashiered  and  disgraced;  all  that  he  had  was 
taken  from  them  and  her  husband  could  scarcely  keep 
himself  alive,  so  that  she  would  have  to  accept  a life 
of  social  degradation  and  starvation  at  last. 

The  youngest  sister  had  not  come  to  the  age  when 
she  could  know  her  destiny.  In  the  night  these 
almost  children  in  years,  and  babes  in  knowledge 
wept  in  each  other's  arms — no  one  could  or  would 
soothe  their  griefs.  They  devised  and  proposed  plans 
of  relief,  one  thought  and  then  another  would  present 
itself,  until  the 'day  dawned  afcer  a comfortless  nighL 


I 


156 

Their  nearest  of  kin  was  angry  that  they  should 
be  disturbing  themselves  over  a future  which  he 
said  might  never  come.  Said  he:  “You  ought 
to  have  more  sense  than  to  think  of  breaking 
the  betrothal  of  your  dead  father.”  Night  came 
down  with  its  black  wings  on  another  dreary  day. 
A suggestion  sprang,  as  by  instinct,  into  the  minds  of 
the  older  sisters,  who,  without  saying  a word  to  each 
other,  understood  its  significance.  They  dressed 
themselves  in  their  beautiful  bridal  garments,  and 
leisurely  surveyed  themselves  in  woman’s  vanity  of 
dress.  After  they  had  thus  satisfied  themselves 
they  turned  the  drama  into  tragedy  with  equal  self- 
possession.  Opium  was  prepared  and  the  youngest 
now  understood  their  strange  proceeding.  She 
begged  them  not  to  leave  her  alone  in  the  world. 
They  had  to  soothe  her,  telling  her  that  her  fiiture 
would  be  better,  but  she  cried  only  the  more  piteously, 
clasping  them  each  with  a slender  arm.  Said  she  at 
last,  “ Let  me  go  with  you.  I can’t  stay  here  when  you 
are  gone.”  “ Let  her  go  with  us,”  said  the  second 
sister,  “ Let  us  take  no  risks.”  Then  the  oldest  sister 
gave  to  each  of  her  sisters  a pill  from  the  palm  of  her 
hand  and  took  one  herself.  Then  she  said,  “ How  I 
would  like  to  know  something  of  the  dark  beyond 
into  which  we  soon  shall  go,  but  there  is  none  who 
can  tell ;”  and  kissing  each  other,  they  laid  down  in 
their  wedding  dresses,  the  baby,  as  they  called  her,  lay 
between.  The  sun  looked  into  the  window,  as  he  had  all 
their  lives  before ; his  beams  lighted  up  their  beauti- 
ful faces,  but  no  smile  responded  to  his  greeting ; no 
hand  was  lifted  to  rub  away  sleep  from  heavy  eyes. 
The  chamber  was  flooded  with  still  brighter  rays,  but, 
alas,  his  beams  fell  on  faces  never  to  smile  again ! They 
had  slept  themselves  to  death. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


A CITY  IN  THE  DELTA. 

CHINA  is  a country  of  great  rivers  and  great 
tributaries.  If  any  one  doubts  its  commercial 
possibilities,  let  him  trace  on  his  map  its  rivers  and  reflect 
on  what  advantages  a navigable  river  involves,  such  as 
mountains,  the  reservoirs  of  their  supplies ; snows  the 
replenishers  of  nature’s  drainage,  the  security  of  life; 
irrigation  and  distributed  fruitfulness ; diversities  of 
soil  and  temperature ; fertilization  by  tides  and 
floods;  alluvial  soil  always  recreating  itself;  trans- 
ference of  life  the  counteractive  of  human  stagnation ; 
diffusion  of  knowledge  by  commerce ; unity  of  life  by 
intercourse ; distribution  of  vital  forces ; and  multitudes 
of  other  beneflts  which  can  be  more  easily  conceived 
than  written. 

The  great  rivers  of  China  are  one  of  its  constant 
surprises.  It  will  never  need  half  the  railroads  of 
other  countries  less  favored  by  nature,  for  railroads 
can  never  compete  with  deep  rivers,  many  of  which 
have  tides  that  swell  for  hundreds  of  miles.  Our  im- 
pression is  that  a system  of  canals  would  be  more  con- 
sonant with  the  configuration  of  the  country  in  most 
parts  of  it  than  railways.  The  Chinese  mind  takes  to 
this  mode  of  commerce  and  travel  more  naturally,  and 
can  work  it  more  advantageously  than  railroading. 
The  Chinamen  take  to  water  from  childhood.  They 
are  a race  of  boatmen  and  boatwomen ; for  the  women 
are  as  skillful  in  propelling  and  managing  crafts  as  the 
men.  These  canals,  from  river  to  river,  would  be  short, 
as  the  distances  between  the  great  rivers  are  not  long. 
The  rivers  are  full  and  suffer  little  by  diminution  in 

157 


153 


✓ 


summer.  These  canals  could  be  easily  made  wide 
enough  for  coasting  vessels  propelled  by  steam,  beside 
furnishing  water  power  for  manufacturing  purposes 
and  irrigation  where  it  is  needed,  bringing  into 
cultivation  great  stretches  of  country  now  barren. 
Strange  as  it  may  seem  China  has  vast  tracts  in  almost 
every  part  of  the  empire  which  have  never  been  brought 
under  tillage.  Wild  animals  roam  over  its  mountains, 
hills  and  vales,  and  venture  to  the  environments  of  its 
largest  cities.  Tigers,  leopards,  bears,  and  wolves  are 
to  be  found  within  a hundred  miles  of  them. 

Shanghai  is  situated  in  the  Delta,  formed  by  the 
Yansee,  and  is  about  twenty  miles  from  the  ocean. 
The  Delta  has  formed  with  wonderful  rapidity,  and 
is  still  pushing  out  into  the  sea.  Sixteen  miles  of 
it  have  been  formed  in  modern  times;  for  there 
is  history  going  back  to  when  the  city  was  upon  the 
coast.  The  Delta  extends  back  about  ninety  miles. 
The  river  drains  an  immense  expanse  of  country, 
having  alniost  every  kind  of  product  that  earth  can. 
hold  or  grow.  There  is  the  best  anthracite  coal  ever 
yet  discovered,  unless  it  be  in  Pennsylvania.  Iron, 
silver  and  copper  in  working  quantities  are  well  dis- 
tributed; the  soil  is  so  rich  that  three  crops  can 
be  gathered  a year ; and  the  climate  varies  from  that  of 
Northern  New  York  to  the  tropics.  At  the  mouth  of 
the  river  are  extensive  fortifications  on  which  have 
been  expended  millions,  but  the  country  is  so  level 
that  they  could  be  easily  flanked  by  land  forces. 
The  river  looks  like  a forest  in  winter  from  the  masts 
of  the  junks,  idle  and  crowded  together.  The  scene 
in  the  harbor  at  Shanghai  is  a gay  one  from  the 
movement  of  multitudes  of  ships  from  every  land 
flying  their  colors,  with  stacks  wreathed  in  graceful 
clouds  of  smoke  moving  upward  in  spirals. 


159 


There  are  three  reservations  occupied  by  Euro- 
peans and  Americans.  The  largest  and  best  is  the 
American,  where  most  of  our  fellow  citizens  doing  busi- 
ness or  in  official  station  reside.  Our  consulate  is  here, 
represented  by  a first-rate  Christian  man,  General 
Kennedy,  of  South  Carolina,  one  of  President  Cleve- 
land’s appointees,  and  one  worthy  of  the  trust,  as  are 
all  of  the  appointments  of  his  administration  so  far 
as  we  have  met  them — a vast  improvement  on  many 
of  his  predecessors.  One  is  gladdened  at  the  familiar 
name  and  the  comfort  of  the  “Astor  house,”  kept  by 
an  American  from  the  Hudson.  The  French  reser- 
vation comes  nex-t,  but  is  not  so  well  improved  as  the 
American.  But  the  British  is,  of  course,  the  best  of 
all.  There  are  more  Englishmen  here  in  office,  busi- 
ness or  for  pleasure  than  from  any  other  country. 
The  native  city  is  not  much  to  speak  of,  and  inter- 
esting only  as  the  home  of  that  strange  race  so 
long  hidden  from  the  gaze  of  the  world.  But  the 
Chinaman  does  not  understand  why  other  nationali- 
ties insist  upon  meddling  in  his  affairs,  and  especially 
our  own,  which  has  not  yet  decided  to  receive  him 
into  the  brotherhood  of  nations.’ 

The  people  of  Shanghai  are  superior  to  those 
further  South,  and  better  than  the  Cantonese ; they 
are  slower,  but  more  rational,  larger,  whiter  and 
more  manly,  better  dressed  and  better  mannered. 
But  they  are  slow,  stolid,  and  so  conservative  that 
any  change  in  any  thing  grips  them  like  paroxysms 
of  cholera.  The  city  of  Shanghai  is  an  improvement 
on  the  Chinese  regulation  pattern ; for  it  has  several 
fine  streets  with  smooth  cement  pavements,  over 
which  the  horse  enters  in  competition  with  the  biped 
working  in  his  jinrickshaw  and  wheelbarrow  for  a. 
share  of  the  carrying  trade. 


160 


The  government  has  here  an  arsenal,  and  manu- 
factures arms  of  both  large  and  small  calibre.  The 
workmen  turn  out  some  fine  work  in  large  guns. 
They  were  coiling  the  bars  of  steel  into  spirals 
to  be  welded,  which  is  an  interesting  process,  and 
were  furnishing  six  or  eight  long  range  pivot  guns 
which  looked  as  if  they  would  do  mischief  if  well 
handled,  but  it  is  about  their  effective  handling  that 
the  warlike  nations  are  most  sceptical.  Whatever 
their  bravery  or  skill  they  may  develop  in  moving 
themselves,  so  far  a^  we  have  seen  them  in  motion  or 
at  rest,  they  are  the  clumsiest  and  awkwardest  men  in 
arms.  Negroes  taken  from  the  cotton  fields  in  an 
hour  could  make  a respectable  show  in  marching,  but 
these  clumsy  fellows  cannot  be  taught.  They  lift  their 
feet  like  string-halt  horses  with  a jerk,  and,  when  a 
back  movement  is  required,  they  stumble  heels  over 
stomach.  Their  weapons  are  handled  as  a bog-trotter 
would  a fiddle-bow;  they  frequently  cripple  each 
other  through  the  awkward  use  of  their  weapons. 
This  will  be  overcome  as  they  progress  in  general  in- 
telligence; it  is  not  a characteristic  of  mere  brute 
force. 

A contrast  between  beggary  and  nobility  was  seen 
by  us  in  close  proximity.  A canal,  or  rather  filth 
ditch,  lies  through  the  western  part  oi  the  city  beyond 
the  walls.  This  is  crowded  with  what  are  called 
beggar-boats ; people  are  born  in  them  and  die  in  their 
narrow  limits.  Their  business  in  life  is  begging ; they 
follow  the  canals  from  end  to  end,  gathering  up  their 
stores.  The  children  are  besmeared  with  the  dirt  of 
their  ancestors,  alive  with  vermin,  fighting,  yelling, 
beating  and  crying,  mingled  with  the  baying  and  bark- 
ing of  their  dogs ; for  there  never  was  a beggar  so 


161 


destitute  that  ne  could  not  support  a dog.  These 
vagrants  are  the  terror  of  the  neighborhood  into  which 
they  come ; for  pestilence  has  with  them  immortality. 
Cholera  and  small-pox,  like  their  poverty,  never  leave 
them  nor  forsake  them. 

Near  by  were  the  sedan  chairs  and  attendants  of 
the  sister  of  Marquis  Tseng,  the  famous  Chinese  states- 
men and  embassador.  She  was  visiting  one  of  her  few 
favorites,  the  wife  of  the  superintendent  of  the  arsenal, 
Mrs.  Fryer,  an  American  lady.  Of  course  we  did  not 
see  her,  but  one  who  travelled*  with  us  makes  this 
report  which  will  interest  our  female  readers.  She 
was  about  medium  height,  refined  and  intelligent,  with 
features  rather  expressive  than  symmetrical  and  with 
delicate  and  shapely  hands.  What  is  most  remark- 
able, as  indicating  a new  movement  among  the  nobility 
on  the  side  of  humanity  is,  that  the  feet  of  her  little 
daughter  had  not  been  disturbed.  This  movement 
will,  no  doubt,  prove  revolutionary,  through  the 
natural  instinct  of  imitation,  especially  by  lovers  of 
the  ways  of  their  superiors.  The  dress  in  which  she 
was  arrayed  had  its  skirts  of  the  richest  brocaded  silk, 
elaborately  embroidered  in  blue  and  gold.  The  over- 
dress or  tunic  was  blue  brocade  finely  embroidered  in 
purple ; her  head-dress  was  set  in  gems,  central  and 
most  conspicuous  was  an  enormous  emerald.  Her  ear 
ornaments  were  strung  pparls  of  the  first  water.  She 
is  usually  attended  by  six  maids  with  as  many  livered 
coolies  to  carry  her  magnificent  se>dan  chair. 

We  have  thus  placed  the  phases  of  Chinese  life  side 
by  side.  These  are  fairly  representative  of  the  ex- 
tremes of  the  Empires.  The  devices  oF  trade  are 
often  ingenious  and  helpful.  There  are  loan  associa- 
tions which  are  temporary  and  voluntary  organizations, 


1C2 


the  capital  invested  being  estimated  by  the  emergency 
that  brings  them  into  existence,  and  ranging  from  one 
dollar  to  five  hundred,  and  the  number  of  members 
being  from  three  to  twenty.  The  man  who  gets  up  the 
company  is  the  president,  and  must  possess  the  where- 
withal to  meet  all  responsibilities,  and  will,  therefore, 
be  particular  • as  to  whom  he  admits.  These  are 
exigency  concerns,  and  spring  up  on  such  occasions  as 
buying  real  estate,  a coffin  for  a wife,  an  outfit  for 
marriage,  paying  debts,  or  the  expenses  of  a lawsuit. 
Whoever  is  in  need  of  ready  cash,  goes  among  his 
friends  to  see  who  will  join  the  loan  society.  He 
provides  a supper,  and  all  expected  to  be  members 
are  invited,  and  each  guest  loans  the  host  one  share. 
At  the  time  appointed,  every  member  except  the 
president,  bids  on  the  next  loan,  and  the  highest 
bidder  gets  it.  The  bids  are  sealed  and  opened  by 
the  president  before  all  present.  The  highest  bidder 
pays  the  amount  to  each  member,  except  the  one  who 
has  already  had  the  loan,  and  every  member  then 
pays  to  this  highest  bidder  a sum  equal  to  what  each 
paid  before  to  the  president,  so  the  loan  continues  to 
circulate,  each  who  has  not  yet  secured  it,  being 
allowed  to  bid,  and  no  one  who  has  once  had  it  is 
permitted  to  bid  the  second  time.  Those  who  have 
once  had  the  loan  receive  no  interest,  and  the  one  re- 
ceiving it  last  pays  his  interest  in  the  form  of  a bid  to 
the  others ; or  if  we  give  name  to  the  parties  it  may 
be  plainer,  (a)  Smith,  (6)  Jones,  (c)  Haines,  (d) 
Doolittle  form  a loan  association;  Smith  gives  a 
supper  costing  twenty  cents  to  Jones,  Haines  and 
Doolittle,  and  they  each  pay  Smith  one  dollar.  In  a 
month  (b)  Jones,  (c)  Haines  and  (d)  Doolittle  bid  for 
the  next  loan,  and  Jones  bidding  higher  than  the 


163 


other  two  gets  it,  and  pays  them  the  amount  he  had 
bid,  say  ten  cents,  and  Smith,  Haines  and  Doolittle 
pay  Jones  one  dollar.  The  next  month  Doolittle  bids 
highest  and  secures  ihe  loan ; and  in  the  fDurth  month  i 
Smith,  Jones  and  Haines  pay  one  dollar  to  Doolittle. 
Each  of  the  members  have  now  received  as  much  as 
he  has  paid  out,  less  the  interest,  and  the  association 
is  dissolved.  ' 

- In  the  department  of  medicine  in  China  the  first' 
formulated  principle  is  that  the  most  disgusting  sub- 
stance in  nature  has  most  curative  properties.  The 
doctor  is  a stylish  looking  man  in  Chinese  fashion, 
wears  spectacles,  the  glasses  of  which  are  about  two 
and  a half  inches  in  diameter;  he  is  tremendous  in 
mannerisms,  rubs  his  hands,  wipes  his  glasses,  looks 
into  the  face  sharply,  stands  back  and  comes  again, 
looks  at  the  tongue,  clears  his  throat  and  then  leaves 
or  sends  his  remedies.  The  marrow  of  a dog’s  tail, 
pulverized  mosquitoes,  bark  and  flowers,  roots  of 
multitudinous  vegetable  and  tonics  are  greatly  used 
by  the  Chinese.  They  want  something  to  make  them 
strong,  for  malaria  is  born  in  their  bones.  Though 
few  of  them  are  given,  yet  hero  are  some  of  the 
grand  possibilities  of  their  medical  science: — The 
seed  vessels  of  the  lotus,  sprouted  wheat  dried  with 
the  rootlets  on,  flowers  of  the  honeysuckle,  leaves 
of  aborvitse,  bones  of  cuttlefish,  snake  and  toad-skins, 
dried  catterpillars,  snails  and  angle-worms,  dried 
mush-rooms  from  decayed  logs,  scales  of  the  armadillo, 
scraped  horns,  rhinocerous  hide  boiled,  charcoal  of 
tiger’s  bones,  excrement  of  animals,  gall-bladder  of 
bears,  &c. 

These  doctors  are  the  incarnation  of  ignorance, 
self-conceit  and  quackery.  They  know  nothing  of 


164 


anatomy;  do  not  often  attempt  surgery,  and  when 
they  do,  it  is  to  produce  deformity.  They  cannot  be 
taught  any  thing ; the  latest  discoveries  are  all  known 
to  them,  and  were  thrown  away  thousand?  of  years  ago. 
What  they  cannot  do,  is  of  the  Devil ; and  it  is  safer  to 
be  pious  in  China  than  smart.  But  this  is  one 
extreme  ; it  is  only  just  to  present  the  other  There  are 
business  men  among  them  of  abilities  of  the  first  order, 
who  are  able  to  cope  with  the  brightest  Europeans,  and 
who  are  charged,  in  places  like  Singapore,  of  over- 
reaching them  on  all  sides,  not  by  roguishness,  but  by 
far-sightedness,  by  being  instant  in  season  and  out  of 
season,  and  by  indomitable  and  unyielding  energy. 
In  their  own  country  and  everywhere  else,  they  root 
to  stay.  They  will  let  foreigners  come  to  China  and 
start  any  business  which  they  do  not  understand,  but 
as  soon  as  this  is  done,  they  will  crowd  them  out,  buy 
them  out  or  set  up  opposition,  until  they  are  compelled 
to  give  up. 

These  great  business  Chinamen  are  more  intelligent, 
and  usually  more  liberal  than  the  average  of  their 
countrymen,  for  contact  with  foreigners  is  always 
educational,  and  John  has  the  ambition  to  keep  in 
the  style  of  the  business  firms  of  his  standing.  As  a 
banker  he  is  accurate,  though  slow  and  formal ; he  is 
obliging  and  quick  to  discern  purposes  or  fancies,  and 
will  adapt  himself  to  them,  though  it  may  cost  him  a 
great  deal  of  inconvenience ; he  is  ready  to  give  any 
thing  but  his  cash.  He  is  particular  to  send  some- 
thing of  his  hoardings  as  presents,  especially  at  the 
beginning  of  the  Chinese  year,  but  all  through  the 
year  the  tradesman  will  be  mindful  to  send  something 
of  his  stocks  or  wares  to  his  customers. 

The  people  are  very  litigious.  They  go  to  law 


1G5 


about  nothing,  and  continue  at  it  with  Chinese  per- 
versity until  the  expenses  have  either  moderated  their 
cantankerousness,  or  so  reduced  their  substance  that 
they  give  up  from  financial  inanition.  The  mission- 
aries dread  them  as  they  would  a cobra ; they  are  con- 
stantly called  on  to  settle  the  fracasses  in  the  churches 
and  outside  as  well.  The  Chinese  believe  in  their 
honesty  and  justice.  If  there  is  any  desire  for  either 
they  will  constitute  a final  court  of  appeal.  Here  is  a 
case  which  will  illustrate  the  magnitude  and  character 
of  much  of  their  litigation.  Twelve  years  ago  a man  was 
pecuniarily  embarrassed,  and  ran  away.  His  wife  soon 
after  sold  herself  to  another  man.  There  was  a 
middle  woman,  as  usual,  in  the  transaction.  She  was 
the  aunt  of  a man  who  is  a member  of  the  church, 
and  a*  well-behaved  Christian ; as  he  was  the  nearest 
male  relative  to  the  middle  woman,  he  was  arrested 
and  put  in  prison.  The  missionary,  his  minister,  was 
called  on  to  get  him  out.  Word  was  sent  to  the  magis- 
trate of  his  good  character,  and  the  request  made  that 
he  be  liberated,  as  it  was  wholly  unjust  to  punish  him 
for  the  misdoings  of  his  aunt.  To  the  amazement  of 
the  intercessor,  the  magistrate  replied : — “ I did  not 
imprison  him  for  that,  but  because  he  said  to  me  in  a 
statement  that  his  aunt  had  not  been  concerned  in  the 
transaction,  when  he  knew  she  had.”  The  hardest 
temptation  to  the  Chinaman,  even  a Christian  in 
many  things,  is  to  tell  the  truth  in  a lawsuit.  The 
Chinaman’s  interest  in  religion  is  often  only  a matter 
of  business.  He  will  be  resp'ectful,  or  even  go  into 
the  chapel,  until  he  satisfies  himself  as  to  the  general 
import  of  the  teachings.  He  will  not  antagonize  or 
argue  against  it,  but  look  rather  in  complacent  pity 
on  the  ignorance  and  degradation  of  the  foreigner,  and 


163 


■with  infinite  self-satisfaction,  go  about  bis  business, 
which  is  “ the  worship  of  the  almighty  dollar.”  It  is 
one  of  the  inexplicable  differences  of  nationalities,  or 
rather  it  may  be  a law  of  all  human  life,  to  go  back- 
ward by  an  inherent  down  gravitation.  The  China- 
man will  be  pleased  with  the  Christian  religion,  even 
praise  it  when  he  is  in  prosperity  and  good  health,  but 
when  adversity  comes  he  will  return  to  his  native 
heathenism. 

The  Marquis  Tseng,  so  well-known  and  highly 
appreciated  in  our  country  and  Europe,  had  a son 
born  in  England,  where  he  lived  until  about 
eight  years  old.  This  child  was  very  bright,  had 
learned  to  speak  the  English  language  and  had 
English  Christian  culture,  could  sing  beautifully  little 
Sabbath-school  hymns,  say  his  prayers,  and  repeat 
verses  of  Scripture.  His  father  loved  to  listen  to 
his  praises.  After  their  return  to  China,  the  child 
died,  but  all  that  he  had  loved  in  his  childhood  and 
had  repeated  in  his  sickness  were  never  mentioned  by 
the  parent.  His  fair  life  was  only  a passing  gleam  of 
sunshine  that  had  gone  into  the  darkness.  Friends 
buried  him  like  any  other  heathen,  burned  paper,  and 
performed  the  idolatrous  rites  of  more  than  two  thou- 
sand years.  No  nation  on  the  earth  ever  possessed  a 
religion  in  every  respect  so  impervious  to  time  as  ' the 
Chinese.  Yet  China  can  be  reached,  and  has  been ; 
but  it  never  will  be  more  than  indirectly  influenced 
by  foreigners. 

We  must  content  ourselves  in  educating  a few  of 
the  people,  and  if  the  number  look  discour  agin  gly 
small,  one  will  come  forth  who  will  lead  the  nation 
captive.  The  movement  will  not  simmer  on  the 
edges,  but  will  break  out  at  the  heart.  Some  hitherto 


1G7 


unknown  Moses  will  come  forth  to  lead  the  people 
into  light.  Their  hatred  to  foreigners  is  ingrained ; 
it  is  deep  and  chronic,  and  will  not  leave  them  until 
the  religion  of  Jesus  Christ  removes  it.  But  this 
regenerative  reformation  of  the  nation  will  come 
through,  her  own  loins.  That  this  is  no  speculation 
born  of  fervid  religious  hope,  we  have  only  to  remem- 
ber the  Taeping  rebellion,  which  would  before  this 
have  changed  the  whole  character  of  the  country 
with  all  its  bad  elements.  It  would  have  been  a vast 
improvement  on  the  present.  No  revolution  is  possi- 
ble, no  matter  how  holy  its  original  purpose,  that  will 
not  be  smothered  for  a time  under  evil  forces,  but 
these  will  pass  away  as  the  smoke  and  stifling  sulphur 
of  the  battlefield,  and  all  that  has  been  gained  by  the 
conflict  will  come  forth  in  splendor.  General  Gordon 
did  not  render  any  service  to  the  world,  however  sin- 
cere his  intentions,  in  pulling  it  down ; he  only  im- 
prisoned the  soul  of  China  fcr  ages  longer.  But  what 
has  been  will  be.  Revolutions  started  by  the  truth, 
even  overlaid  by  wickedness,  will  rise  again. 

The  first  observations  of  mission  work  in  Shang- 
hai were  taken  from  the  missions  of  the  Presby- 
terian Board.  A visit  was  made  to  the  old  station 
at  the  South  Gate,  which  will  be  ever  remembered 
as  identified  with  the  name  Lowrie.  Here  the  saintly 
Reuben  Lowrie  closed  his  eyes.  His  work  was 
short,  but  it  remains  as  a polished  stone  in  the  super- 
structure which  shall  be  finished  with  the  shout  of 
grace  unto  it.”  When  he  was  dying,  his  wife  lay  in 
the  next  room  shut  out  from  that  which  our  poor 
nature  most  craves — a last  gaze  on  the  faces  of  those 
we  love  before  the  candle  of  life  is  lifted  beyond 
vision.  His  name  is  sacred  among  the  missionaries 


1C8 


to  this  day,  and  is  handed  down  from  one  to  another, 
serving  as  both  a model  and  an  inspiration.  The 
mission,  about  this  time,  passed  into  the  care  of  Dr. 
Farnham,  who  was  in  the  residence  a short  time  before 
Mr.  Lowrie’s  death  ; he  conducted  it  with  success  for 
nearly  a quarter  of  a century.  Mrs.  Farnham  founded 
the  home  for  orphan  girls,  which  has  been  a constant 
source  of  blessing  to  this  neglected  class,  utterly  desti- 
tute in  China ; for  heathenism  has  no  mitigations  for 
the  unfortunate.  Rev.  J.  N.  B.  Smith  is  now  in  charge. 
It  was  a surprise  to  recognize  in  him  a young  boy 
whom  we  had  known  at  his  home  in  Illinois,  and  who 
had,  in  the  intervening  years,  prepared  himself  for 
the  ministry  and  chosen  the  work  of  a foreign  mis- 
sionary in  this  far-off  land. 

The  pupils  were  intelligent  and  seemed  to  be  mak* 
ing  progress.  Mrs.  Smith  has  charge  of  the  orphan- 
age. The  old  root  is  still  vigorous,  and  is  having 
diligent  culture,  but  the  question  would  force  itself 
upon  us,  “ why  are  there  no  scions : somebody  must 
have  clipped  them  at  the  roots.”  It  is  an  amazement 
that  the  Presbyterian  Church  has  but  one  mission 
station  in  such  a city  as  Shanghai.  The  Church  has 
been  nodding  amidst  her  abundance,  will  no  doubt  be 
the  reply ; if  so,  notice  is  served  upon  it  now  that  it  is 
a serious  neglect  and  the  loss  of  great  opportunities. 
The  Presbyterian  Church  could  as  easily  have  had  a 
half  dozen  if  the  men  and  means  had  been  furnished. 
There  ought  to  be  an  immediate  effort,  not  only  on 
account  of  past  neglects,  but  because  the  station  at  the 
South  Gate  is  not  as  well  located  as  it  might  be.  It  is 
out  of  the  way,  in  the  suburbs,  and  while  it  is  needed, 
it  is  not  a centre,  and  can  never  be  more  than  it  now  is. 
There  is,  in  Shanghai,  a printing  and  publishing 


169 


establishment  belonging  to  the  Board  which  has, 
through  the  past  history  of  the  mission,  been  of  incal- 
cuable  service  to  the  work.  But  printing  and  pub- 
lishing are  nearly  everywhere  a dull  and  unprofitable 
business ; competition  has  gnawed  its  life  away.  This 
work  for  several  years  was  under  the  care  of  Dr. 
Farnham,  and  amidst  the  difficulties  of  its  peculiar 
environment  has  had  better  average  of  prosperity 
than  similar  establishments.  Dr.  Farnham  has  since 
given  up  the  superintendence  of  the  press,  and  has 
gone  back  to  the  mission  work,  in  which  he  has  been 
so  successful,  and  for  which  he  is  so  well  fitted. 

In  the  Doremus  Mission  first-class  work  of  several 
kinds  is  being  done.  The  Bridgeman  Home  is  the 
result  of  a bequest  of  the  wife  of  Dr.  Bridgeman,  who 
were  both  well-known  for  their  great  services  in  this 
line  of  duty.  The  Home  is  a comfortable  old  country 
residence,  in  the  midst  of  extensive  grounds,  well 
shaded  and  free  from  the  malaria,  so  general  in 
China.  In  the  old,  comfortable  mansion  are  accom- 
modations for  the  ladies  of  the  Home  and  Hospital, 
and  recitation  rooms  and  dormitories  for  orphan  chil- 
dren, of  whom  there  were  forty  girls,  under  the  care 
of  Miss  Brunton,  who  is  a teacher  of  unusual  ability. 
Her  instructions,  especially  in  music,  considering  all 
the  disadvantages  in  the  quality  of  voices,  without  any 
hereditary  musical  tendencies  or  culture,  were  surpris- 
ing. There  was  but  one  drawback.  It  is  a sad  one, 
and  one  to  be  considered  in  all  popular  education  the 
world  over ; to  wit,  whether  it  is  not  as  muchof  a curse 
as  a blessing  to  educate  women  out  of  all  sympathy  with 
their  surroundings,  to  start  refined  aspirations  which 
can  never  be  gratified — whether  the  happiness  that 
comes  from  the  mere  possession  of  knowledge  com- 


170 


pensates  for  the  bitter  disappointments  of  a life  below 
cultivated  tastes.  These  girls,  being  so  well  educated, 
are  doomed  to  marry  heathen  husbands ; many  of  them 
mere  animals,  who  will  never  rise  above  their  low 
instincts.  An  example  was  given  in  the  sad  life  of  a 
young  girl  who  was  married  to  a heathenish  creature, 
who  dragged  her  back  into  the  sty  of  her  former 
degradation.  She  wept  most  bitterly  and  bewailed 
her  unhappy  lot  in  knowing  of  the  elevating  in- 
fluences of  Christianity  and  Christian  culture  and  then 
being  compelled  to  live  a life  of  conscious  degrada- 
tion. This  exception  is  not  taken  to  discourage  Chris- 
tian efforts  for  these  unfortunates,  but  to  show  the 
necessity  of  the  only  possible  form  of  relief.  This 
is  the  education  of  the  sexes  in  equal  numbers,  so 
that  husbands  and  wives,  as  far  as  possible,  may  be 
mated  by  being  trained  to  similar  convictions  and 
tastes.  Boys’  and  girls’  schools  must  be  co-extensive. 
A step  further  has  been  taken,  which  is,  as  far  as  practi- 
cal, the  mating  and  marrying  them  as  they  leave  their 
schools.  There  is  a hospital  under  the  same  general 
direction  which  bears  the  memorial  name  of  the  Mar- 
garet Williamson  Hospital,  for  the  treatment  of 
females,  under  the  medical  direction  of  Dr.  Reifsnyder, 
a Pennsylvania  lady  and  graduate  of  the  Woman’s 
Medical  College  of  Philadelphia.  Dr.  Reifsnyder 
frequently  makes  the  diagnosis  of,  and  prescribes  for, 
three  hundred  patients  a day.  All  these  receive  re- 
ligious instruction,  usually  by  native  Christian  minis- 
ters and  helpers 

Another  pleasant  surprise  in  a visit  to  Shanghai 
was  in  meeting  one  of  the  teachers  in  the  Sabbath- 
school  of  the  Memorial  Presbyterian  Church,  Phila- 
delphia, Dr.  Gale,  who  is  now  acquiring  the  language 


171 


qualifying  her  to  enter  her  medical  work  in  the  Hos- 
pital. No  institutions  in  China  give  more  evidence  of 
usefulness'  than  this  Bridgeman  Orphanage  and  the 
Williamson  Hospital.  These  women  are  doing  a 
grand  work,  and  as  a Christian  activity  this  institu- 
tion offers  salvation  to  the  soul  through  its  ministry 
to  the  wounds  and  diseases  of  a lost  humanity. 
Another  blessing  to  the  world  never  fully  estimated 
is  its  separation ' from  narrow  sectarianism,  which 
cannot  live  in  the  midst  of  men  and  women  whose 
souls  are  aglow  with  the  love  of  Christ  impelling  them 
to  save  lost  men. 

There  are  but  dim  traces  of  sectarian  spirit  among 
actual  missionaries.  More  fraternal  feeling  does  not 
exist  within  the  length  and  breadth  of  Christendom 
than  among  these  soul-saving  toilers.  That  lank  mon- 
ster, sectarianism,  ever  ready  to  discriminate  and  per- 
secute, has  narrow  quarters  and  a pinched  existence 
in  Shanghai.  Still  there  is  a solitary  representative 
which  disports  itself  under  the  empty  but  spread-eagle 
title  of  “the  Holy  Catholic  Church  of  America,’^ 
which  is  set  as  a shark’s  mouth  to  draw  in  minnows. 
Union  means,  to  the  authors  of  this  proclamation, 
general  absorption,  in  which  all  identity  shall  be 
lost,  and  in  which  all  shall  come  back  as  prodigals 
into  a step-father’s  house  and  be  arrayed  in  second- 
hand robes.  It  would  be  a caricature,  as"  untrue 
of  the  best  part  of  the  Episcopal  Church  in  the 
United  States  as  it  is  uncharitable,  to  believe  that 
they  would  endorse  such  a pavonian  manifesto.  Its 
authorship  is  imputed  to  some  former  members  of  a 
Baptist  mission,  and  illustrates  just  what  has  been 
witnessed  in  small-pox,  that  those  who  have  the  dis- 
ease worst  take  it  by  inoculation. 


172 


The  following  is  said  to  be  the  product  of  two 
young  renegades  from  the  Baptist  Church  now  acting 
under  the  direction  of  a superior  who  has  the  genuine 
spirit  of  the  bishops  of  the  times  of  John  Bunyan. 
This  astonishing  ecclesiastical  exposition  is  thus  for- 
mulated in  a catechism  appearing  in  Chinese  and 
translated  in  the  China  News : 

“ Why  am  * I a member  of  the  Holy  Church  of 
America  ? Besides  believing  in  the  Father  and  the 
Son,  there  are  two  other  reasons.  One  has  respect  to 
it  as  a Church  of  the  absolutely  one  Holy  Catholic 
Church  of  the  Lord  of  Heaven : the  Kingdom  of  God 
established  in  the  world.  One  has  respect  to  the  doc- 
trine which  it  holds.  The  doctrine  of  the  Holy 
Catholic  Church  has  undergone  no  addition  and  no 
diminution  from  antiquity  till  now.”  “ With  respect 
to  Churches,  there  are  those  which  have  come  down 
from  the  Holy  Apostles,  and  they  form  one  Church 
with  the  Holy  Catholic  Church.  The  other  Churches, 
though  it  may  be  said  that  possibly  they  may  possess 
some  excellencies,  are  not  Churches  established  by  the 
Lord  Jesus,  nor  handed  down  by  the  Holy  Apostles.” 
‘‘  The  Holy  Catholic  Churches  being  established  in 
different  countries  are  not  to  be  under  the  dominion  of 
the  Church  in  any  one  particular  country  so  as  to  be 
compelled  in  all  particulars  to  conform  to  it.  If  the 
Holy  Catholic  Church  in  any  particular  country  holds 
erroneous  opinions  in  regard  to  essential  doctrines,  and 
should  Christians  on  this  account  not  unite  with  it, 
they  are  not  to  be  regarded  as  schismatics.  For  in- 
stance, the  Holy  Catholic  Church  of  Rome  will  not 
unite  with  the  Holy  Catholic  Churches  of  other  coun- 
tries because  they  will  not  take  the  Holy  Catholic 
Church  of  Rome  for  their  head.  And  the  Holy 


173 


Catholic  Churches  of  other  countries  will  not  conform, 
to  the  Catholic  Church  of  Eome,  because  the  Holy- 
Catholic  Church  of  Rome  has  great  heresies.”  “ The 
doctrine  of  the  Holy  Catholic  Church  rests  upon  the 
Bible  and  Tradition  . . . The  Roman  Catholics  do  not 
give  weight  to  the  Bible,  and  the  Nonconformists  do 
not  give  weight  to  Tradition.”  They  are  both  wrong.” 
“ I desire  to  be  a member  of  the  American  Holy 
Church,  because  her  Bishops  have  been  handed  <Jown 
from  the  Holy  Apostles  and  because  of  the  doctrines 
preached  by  the  Holy  Apostles.”  “Moreover,  I j oin  ihe 
American  Holy  Catholic  Church,  because  China  as  yet 
does  not  possess  a Holy  Catholic  Church  of  her  own. 
Should  the  church  in  China  at  any  time  have  a native, 
bearing  the  office  of  Bishop,  then  China  would  have 
a Holy  Catholic  Church  of  her  own.  The  name  may 
be  changed,  but  the  Church  cannot  be  changed.” 
“ Why  do  I not  join  the  Roman  Catholic  Church  ? 
Because  the  Roman  Catholic  Church,  though  a Holy 
Catholic  Church,  can  never  change  and  become  a 
Chinese  Catholic  Church.  It  must  continue  to  be  a 
Church  of  Rome.  Another  and  a greater  reason  is 
that  she  holds  heretical  doctrines.  According  to  her 
teachings,  the  Church  has  two  Heads  : one  the  invisi- 
ble Christ  in  heaven,  the  other  the  visible  Pope  in 
Rome ; the  idea  being  that  the  Pope  is  the  lord  of  all 
bishops,  king  of  all  kings,  the  head  of  all  men.  More- 
over, it  is  held  that  the  Pope  is  able  at  his  convenience 
to  establish  doctrines  essential  to  salvation.  As  to  the 
doctrines  established  by  him,  some  of  them  have  not 
been  handed  down  from  the  beginning,  some  are  not 
founded  on  the  Scriptures,  and  are  not  in  harmony 
with  the  doctrines  already  held ; and  yet  every  one  of 
them  is  to  be  believed  as  a doctrine  essential  to  salva- 


174 


tion.  From  this  it  will  be  seen  that  the  Church  of 
Rome  is  manifesilv  heretical.  Why  do  I not  join  the 
Gospel  Halls  (Nonconformist  places  of  worship)? 
Because  these  sects  are  without  the  True  Root,  and  are 
of  human  origin.  Not  only  is  the  doctrine  as  possessed 
by  them  deflected  and  incomplete,  they,  moreover,  at 
their  own  convenience,  abandon  and  cast  away  the  , 
Truth,  and  that  without  being  aware  of  the  fact.  Thus 
they  bring  about  divisions  and  separations,  their 
churches  can  never  unite  and  become  one.  These  two 
churches  (Roman  Catholic  and  Nonconformist)  are 
not  wanting  in  men  who  are  devoutly  practising  the 
Truth  and  earnestly  propagating  religion.  But,  alas ! 
they  have  not  received  commission  from  the  Lord.” 

The  following  extract  is  from  a book,  written  in 
Chinese  and  published  by  the  Ameri^'an  Episcopal 
Mission,  in  XJrichang.  The  book  is  a treatise  on  the 
feasts  to  be  observed  throughout  the  year.  The 
chapter  most  explanatory  puts  reasons  into  the 
mouth  of  the  adherent  why  he  unites  himself  to  the 
American  Holy  Catholic  Church.  In  this  chapter 
the  author  divides  all  Christians  into  “ three  sections, 
Episcopalians,  Roman  Catholics,  and  Nonconformists.” 
The  Episcopal  Church  of  America  is  designated  “ The 
American  Holy  Catholic  Church.’  The  Church  of 
England  is  mentioned  incidentally,  and  is  called  “ The 
English  Holy  Catholic  Church.”  The  Roman  Catholic 
Church  is  spoken  of  as  “ Holy  Catholic  Church  ” also ; 
but  is  severely  denounced  on  account  of  its  many 
errors  and  corruptions!  The  Nonconformist  bodies 
are  spoken  of  as  being  devoid  of  the  “ True  Root,”  as 
holding  and  teaching  errors,  and  as  having  no  stand- 
ing in  the  true  Church  at  all.  The  aim  of  the  author 
in  the  chapter  seems  to  be  the  glorification  of  the 


175 


Episcopal  Church  of  America,  the  defamation  of  all 
other  churches  (the  English  Church  excepted,  of 
course),  with  the  view  of  enticing  the  converts  of 
other  churches  into  its  communion.  This  is  a grave 
charge,  but  the  proofs  are  at  hand.  The  following 
are  extracts  from  the  book  itself.  The  translation 
will  be  found  on  comparison  with  the  original  to  be 
more  than  fair  to  the  author.  “ This  being  the  case,  we 
who  belong  to  the  American  Holy  Church,  sincerely 
desire  that  all  the  converts  in  China  should  know  that 
the  Holy  Catholic  Church  is  the  Church  of  Christ. 
Let  none  of  the  members  of  the  American  Holy 
Catholic  Church  look  upon  their  Church  as  the  Holy 
Catholic  Church  of  America,  but  rather  as  the  Holy 
Catholic  Church  of  China.” 

“The  Lord  Jesus  commanded  that  all  believers 
should  unite  and  be  one.  At  present  the  Christians 
in  China  are  not  united  into  one,  and  in  this  they 
violate  the  Lord’s  command.  If  all  the  Chris- 
tians in  China  were  united  into  one,  then  we  should 
have  our  Chinese  Holy  Catholic  Church,  and  the  say- 
ing of  the  Lord  that  all  men  might  believe,  that  he 
was  sent  by  the  Father  would  be  fulfilled.  Now  why 
do  I desire  that  all  the  Christians  in  China  should 
join  the  Holy  Catholic  Churches  of  England  and 
America.  This  is  my  reason.  The  converts  con- 
nected with  Gospel  Halls  (Nonconformist  Churches) 
cannot  join  the  Roman  Catholic  Hall  without  giving 
up  essential  doctrines,  but  they  can  join  the  Holy 
Catholic  Churches  of  England  and  America  without 
giving  up  any  essential  doctrines.  The  converts  con- 
nected with  the  Roman  Catholic  Hall  cannot  join  the 
Gospel  Halls  without  giving  up  essential  doctrines ; 
but  they  can  join  the  Holy  Catholic  Churches  of 


176 


England  and  America  without  giving  up  any  essential 
doctrine.  Thus  the  important  thing  for  all  believers 
in  the  Lord  Jesus,  is  to  become  united  in  the  Holy 
Catholic  Church  (the  Episcopal  Churches  of  England 
and  America)  and  by  so  doing  not  lose  the  doctrines 
that  are  essential  to  salvation.  Should  any  one  come 
to  me,  desiring  to  get  further  light  on  the  principles 
and  tenets  of  these  two  churches  (Roman  Catholic 
and  Nonconformist),  I shall  certainly  not  fear  any 
trouble,  but  rather  take  pleasure  in  giving  full  par- 
ticulars.” 

Let  the  above  extracts  suffice  for  the  present. 
No  thoughtful  man  can  read  them  without  being 
amused  on  the  one  hand,  and'  saddened  on  the 
other.  There  is  something  supremely  comical  in  the 
attitude  assumed  by  “ the  American  Church”  towards 
all  other  churches  in  China.  This  pretentious  outburst 
of  holy  Pharisaism  emanates  from  one  of  the  smallest 
factions  in  the  Episcopal  Church  in  the  United  States, 
and  deservedly  one  of  the  feeblest  in  China.  And  yet 
here  it  is,  with  its  little  mouth  wide  open,  inviting 
the  Roman  Catholic  Church,  with'  its  million  converts, 
and  the  Nonconformists  churches,  with  their  millions, 
to  pop  into  the  holy  vortex  and  disappear.  The 
attitude  reminds  us  of  the  Peacock  in  the  F able : 

“ When  one  morning  in  spring,  on  foot  or  on  wing, 

The  birds  were  assembled  to  choose  a king. 

The  Peacock  elate,  with  his  pin  Dage  in  state. 

Said,  I offer  myself  as  a candidate; 

« My  tail  and  my  crest  I propos'j  as  a test 
To  prove  myself  fitter  than  all  the  rest.” 

“ The  Holy  Catholic  Church”  in  China  ought  to  find 
something  better  to  do  than  to  go  about  enticing  the 
converts  of  other  churches,  and  setting  both  mission- 

\ 


177 


aries  and  converts  by  the  ears  . Is  it  to  carry  on  a 
propagandism  of  this  kind  that  we  are  called  upon  to 
join  forces?  Is  it  for  the  success  of  tbis  kind  of 
work  that  we  are  invited  “ to  spend  ten  minutes  every 
day  in  prayer?” 


N both  sides  of  the  Woo  Sung  river,  navigable  by 


large  steamers,  are  great  stretches  of  country, 
bounded  only  by  the  junction  of  earth  and  sky.  The 
river  has  no  bluffs,  and  seems  ever  to  be  overflowing. 
The  water  is  muddy  and  rolls  on  through  wide  plains  like 
the  lower  Mississippi.  As  the  sea  coast  recedes,  a line  of 
conical-shaped  mountains  are  seen,  appearing  in  the 
shapes  in  which  the  sea  left  them  when  the  sandy  de- 
posits, brought  down  from  the  interior,  forced  the 
sea  back  on  itself  in  the  deep.  These  great 
plains  are  cultivated  only  along  the  river  banks.  As 
the  city  of  Ningpo  is  approached,  the  products  most 
prominent  are  mounds  of  defunct  Chinamen,  hillocks 
of  Chinese  bones  and  dust,  after  the  style  of  the 
mounds  found  in  America,  popularly  called  Indian. 
It  would  be  difficult,  without  actual  observation,  to 
believe  the  extent  of  these  burial  hillocks.  They 
render  the  land  for  miles  around  Ningpo  untillable 
on  account  of  their  number,  propinquity  and  extent. 

The  land  is  tenanted  by  the  dead,  who  lay 
claim  to  it  under  the  title  of  descent  and  occu- 
pation. The  right  of  burial  follows  title,  and  descent 
only  gives  secure  title.  The  whole  country  seems  to 
be  owned  by  the  dead.  Fully  one-half  of  the  departed 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


KINGPO. 


178 


population  are  not  buried  at  all.  The  Chinese  put 
their  dead  in  thick  board  coffins,  made  as  nearly  air- 
tight as  possible,  and  about  the  size  and  con- 
struction of  a wooden  country  watering-trough. 
These  they  place  wherever  they  can  get  room 
for  them ; sometimes  putting  a few  pieces  of  old  mat- 
ting over  them,  but  more  frequently  leaving  them 
as  they  came  from  the  carpenter’s  hands.  It  would 
be  within  bounds  to  say  that’  a million  of  such  coffins 
could  be  found,  in  all  ages  and  conditions,  over  any 
considerable  portion  of  the  country  about  a great  city. 
The  blazing  sun  heats  them  up,  when  the  exhalations 
poison  the  air  everywhere,  breeding  and  feeding 
pestilence  all  over  the  empire. 

The  cholera,  which  raged  in  China  and  Japan,  started 
in  this  way  at  Sagisaki  last  summer.  The  Japanese  had 
gone  to  Formosa  to  put  down  a rebellion,  as  they  sup- 
posed ; which  was  really  only  a manifestation  of  hos- 
tility to  China.  They  were  met  with  submissions  and 
the  desire  to  come  under  Japanese  rule.  Hundreds 
of  the  Japanese  soldiers  died,  and  their  bodies  were 
put  in  tubs  to  be  brought  home.  One  ship  brought 
three  hundred  and  fifty  of  these  tubs;  the  upper  one 
fitting  over  the  lower.  The  men  on  the  ship  were 
overwhelmed  with  the  unbearable  condition  of  these 
corpses,  and  refused  to  remove  them  from  the  ship 
after  she  came  into  port.  Convicts  were  compelled 
to  do  it.  They  were  buried,  but  their  friends  wishing 
to  remove  their  remains  to  their  homes,  disinterred 
the  tubs,  and  through  this  removal  the  cholera 
began  and  was  carried  into  Japan  and  China,  and 
more  or  less  all  over  the  far  East. 

In  Ningpo,  by  the  concession  of  the  American 
Presbyterian  Mission,  in  the  time  of  the  cholera, 


179 


bodies  of  those  who  had  died  of  cholera,  were  brought 
in  coffins  and  put  down  within  two  hundred  feet  of 
the  house  occupied  by  our  widowed  missionary,  Mrs. 
Butler.  It  was  not  until  the  most  persistent  efforts 
had  been  made  by  herself  and  our  consul  that  it  was 
stopped.  Multitudes  died  in  Ningpo  ; tue  venerable 
and  beloved  Baptist  missionaries,  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Lord, 
died  within  a few  days  of  each  other,  after  the  general 
epidemic  had  begun  to  subside. 

The  city  of  Ningpo  is  an  ancient  one,  but  its 
recorded  history  is  very  meagre.  There  is  a pagoda 
standing  which  is  over  three  hundred  years  old. 
There  is  also  a walled  city  almost  smothered  by  its 
larger  surroundings,  except  on  the  river  side.  The 
wall  is  faced  with  stone  and  backed  up  with  brick,  stone 
and  clay.  The  facing  would  amount  to  nothing  before 
modern  artillery,  but  the  clay  and  rubbish,  which  are 
from  ten  to  twenty  feet'  thick,  might  give  con- 
siderable trouble  to  assailants  from  without,  and 
afford  good  shelter  to  defenders  within.  In  the  city 
is  an  old  heathen  temple,  of  no  particular  interest  in 
itself,  but  which  has  gained  an  interest  through  the 
service  it  rendered  to  Christianity  by  sheltering  the 
first  American  missionaries.  Revs.  Walter  Lowrie 
and  McCarthy.  They  'could  find  no  other  place  of 
shelter,  and  so  to^k  advantage  of  it.  People,  who 
would  not  rent  them  a place  to  live  in,  yet  toler- 
ated them  in  their  temple.  One  of  the  tragic 
pages  of  missionary  history  in  China  was  the 
violent  death  of  that  remarkable  man.  Rev.  Walter 
Lowrie,  so  full  of  promise  and  so  popular  with  the  na- 
tives. But  God  demands  that  those  who  shall  be  his 
sacrificial  offerings  be  as  meek  and  ready  for  the  altar 
as  they  are  to  sway  the  sceptre.  Mr.  Lowrie  had  been 


180 


down  to  Shanghai  on  business  in  connection  with  the 
work  of  the  mission,  and  on  his  way  ba  ck  to  Niugpo 
the  boat  on  which  he  was  travelling  was  assaulted 
by  pirates,  who  threw  him  into  the  sea,  and  stood 
ready  to  kill  him  if  he  attempted  to  board  the 
vessel.  At  last,  exhausted  and  despairing  in  his 
helpless  condition,  the  sea  took  him  to  her  bosom, 

‘‘and  he  was  laid  to  sleep.” 

He  was  one  of  the  most  brilliant  men  of  his 
age  in  mind  and  attainments,  and  had  given  his 
life,  with  singular  and  entire  devotion,  from  his 
boyhood  to  the  cause  of  Christ.  His  name  lives  in 
this  part  of  China,  among  those  born  long  since  his 
days.  His  devotion  became  traditional,  and  was 
handed  down  from  parents  to  their  children.  The 
place  of  his  tragic  death  was  pointed  out  by  the 
captain  of  the  ship,  who  seemed  to  be  as  well  ac- 
quainted with  the  character  of  the  man  and  the  facts  ” 
concerning  his  departure,  as  if  he  had  lived  at  the 
time  of  the  sad  event. 

The  natives  of  Ningpo  are  larger,  brighter  and  bet- 
ter looking  people  than  even  those  at  Shanghai ; they 
are  more  intelligent,  and  have  taken  more  kindly  to 
Christianity.  Most  of  them  know  something  about  it, 
and  feel  very  friendly  to  missionaries,  and  the  spiteful 
epithet,  “ foreign  devils,”  is  not  often  heard.  The 
early  prejudices  awakened  by  falsehood  concerning- 
their  cutting  out  the  eyes  of  the  Chinese  have  passed 
away.  Now  when  they  get  into  trouble,  they  seek  the 
missionaries  to  advise  with  them,  having  the  most  en- 
tire confidence  in  their  truthfulness,  intelligence  and 
honesty.  When  the  French  were  menacing  their  sea- 
port cities  groundless  rumors  were  afloat,  (grape-vine 
telegrams,  as  they  were  called  in  the  South  during  the 


181 


American  war,)  in  which  the  French  fleet  was  often 
represented  as  being  in  sight  from  Ningpo.  The  un- 
principled Chinese  traders  would  thus  scare  away  their 
competitors  from  the  banks  of  the  river.  They 
would  come  straight  to  the  missionaries  to  know  if 
it  were  so.  They  believed  in  both  their  ability  to 
know  and  their  truthfulness  to  report  the  facts.  Some 
Chinese  merchants  and  others  of  position  asked  the 
privilege,  if  the  French  should  come,  of  moving  their 
families  and  effects  into  the  missionary  reservations,, 
so  that  they  might  be  protected  by  them  and  be  under 
the  flag  of  their  country. 

One  of  the  missionaries  gave  another  incident  con- 
firming their  confidence  in  their  ability  and  truthful- 
ness. When  the  telegraph  line  produced  so  much  excite  • 
ment  in  China  a few  years  since,  because  they  believed 
it  would  bring  national  calamity  on  account  |of  disturb- 
ing the  repose  of  the  dead  and  because  of  other  com- 
plications owing  to  their  way  of  thinking,  he  was 
passing  a town  where  there  was  an  excited  crowd  dis- 
cussing the  situation  in  a most  animated  manner. 
One  said,  “ Let’s  call  the  foreigner  over,  and  hear 
what  he  has  to  say  about  it.  We  know  he  will  tell  us 
the  truth.” 

He  accepted  their  invitation  and  was  ready  to  tell 
them  any  thing  he  knew  on  the  subject.  They  asked 
him  “why  the  foreigners  were  putting  up  the  telegraph 
and  bringing  so  much  trouble  on  the  land?”  He 
said,  “ The  foreigners  are  not  doing  it  at  all ; it  is  your 
own  Emperor  who  is  building  it  to  get  the  news  more 
quickly  of  any  attack  on  the  country,  so  that  he  can 
send  soldiers  quickly  to  protect  you  and  your  pro- 
perty.” That  was  a surprise.  One  said  to  another, 
“ Do  you  believe  it?  ” “ Yes,”  replied  a half  a dozea 


182 


voices,  the  missionaries  know,  and  they  do  not  lie.’^ 
“ But,”  said  another,  “ how  is  it  we  see  foreigners  work- 
ing on  it?  ” ‘‘  O ! ” said  the  missionary,  “ the  Emperor 

got  them  because  they  understood  how  to  put  the  wires 
up ; after  the  Chinese  learn  how  to  do  it  the  foreigners 
will  build  no  more  of  them.”  “ But,”  said  they,  “ we 
have  heard  that  they  will  kill  any  thing  that  comes 
near  them.”  “ No,”  said  the  missionary,  “ that  is  not 
so ; I have  been  under  them  a many  a time  and  they 
never  have  hurt  me,  and  I never  have  heard  of  anybody 
being  hurt  by  them  unless  they  took  hold  of  the  wires;  I 
have  seen  sparrows  sitting  on  the  wires  by  the  hun- 
dreds without  being  hurt.”  The  mob  was  instantly 
quieted ; no  more  disturbance  was  made ; and  most  of 
them  thought  a missionary  was  a good  kind  of  man  to 
have  among  them  to  explain  matters  when  troubles 
were  brewing. 

The  work  of  the  Presbyterian  Board  of  Foreign 
Missions  here  was  well  founded.  Those  who  have 
wrought  have  done  their  work  with  their  thoughts 
fixed  on  the  day  of  account.  They  laid  the  foundation 
deep  and  secure  whereon  the  present  and  future  church 
shall  rest,  and  extend  its  proportions.  The  teachings 
have  been  careful,  persistent,  intelligent  and  conscien- 
tious. The  effect  is  seen  even  in  the  modified  heathen- 
ism it  has  produced ; and  now  when  native  talent  can 
be  employed  what  they  have  is  of  the  best  quality. 
Their  only  need  is  more  of  these  thoroughly  con- 
verted, carefully  trained  men.  The  missionaries  have, 
in  the  Presbyteries,  many  a contest  with  the  native 
ministry  on  questions  of  interpretations  of  Church 
government  and  polity.  The  natives  are  close  con- 
structionists and  exceedingly  tenacious  for  the  exact 
renderings,  while  those  to  the  manor  born,  as  we  all 


183 


know,  indulge  a larger  liberty  in  interpreting  and 
applying  its  principles  by  a law  not  written,  but  un- 
derstood by  Presbyters — a kind  of  unrecorded  con- 
sensus. 

There  are  two  Presbyterian  churches  in  Ningpo, 
whose  pastors  are  natives,  able  and  devout  men.  In 
the  city  is  the  large  old  church,  now  self-supporting, 
and  has  one  hundred  and  twenty  comm  jnicants.  Sab- 
bath-schools, Bible  classes,  day  schools,  &c.  This 
church  is  not  only  self-sustaining,  but  is  a contributing 
church  in  the  way  of  helping  in  weaker  places.  There 
is  also  a church  on  the  grounds  occupied  by  the  mis- 
sionaries, ministered  to  by  a native,  which  is  vigorous, 
and  has  a good  house  of  worship,  which  is  occupied 
also  in  service  for  the  English-speaking  congregation. 

There  is  a girl’s  boarding  school  conducted  by  Mrs. 
Butler,  who,  at  the  death  of  her  husband,  so  compe- 
tent and  beloved  not  only  as  a teacher  but  as  a preacher 
in  the  Chinese  language,  took  up  this  work,  and  has 
continued  it,  and  in  her  own  sphere  and  way  occupies 
the  place  of  her  husband  with  a heroism  which  is 
sublime.  She  has  also  a class  of  heathen  women. 
Mrs.  Fitch  is  also  engaged  in  visiting  and  other  self- 
denying  duties.  Miss  Harmer  is  employed  in  instruct- 
ing and  directing  Bible  women;  she  also  superintends 
two  day  schools  and  classes  of  women.  Beside  itinera- 
ting work,  her  hands  are  full  and  heart  too,  as  she  is 
compelled  to  see  so  much  hopelessness  for  the  perish- 
ing around  her,  though  her  labor  i < prospering.  But 
alas ! what  is  this  among  so  many  ! 

The  Rev.  Wm.  J.  McKee  has  supervision  of  mission 
work  in  the  city,  and  in  out-lying  missionary  stations. 
Rev.  Mr.  Fitch  is  engaged  in  the  same  general  work ; 
he  is  Superintendent-elect  of  the  Publication  Work  in 


184 


Shanghai.  There  is  no  better  work  being  done  in 
the  whole  Chinese  Mission  field  than  these  faithful 
men  and  women  are  doing,  and  the  reward  of  their 
services  as  well  as  of  their  tireless  predecessors  is 
being  seen  in  the  growing  churches  of  the  Ningpo 
Presbytery,  whose  record  is  found  in  the  following 
report : 

Presbyterial  report  of  church  members: — Ningpo, 
122  ; Saen-Poh,  22  ; Yu-Yiao,  101 ; Bao-ko-Tiah,  72; 
Hang- Chow,  74 ; Fu-Saen,  44;  Zong-Yu,  34;  Sing-z, 
46 ; Dziang-io-z,  26 ; Tsiu-iong,  69 ; Kao-Gyiao,  36 ; 
Tong-Yiang,  73;  Total,  719;  less  120  Hang-Chow 
and  Sing-z ; Total  in  Ningpo  Station,  599.  Scholars : 
— Boarding  School,  Boys,  31 ; Girls,  33 ; Total,  64. 
Hay  Schools,  Boys,  38  ; Girls,  94  ; Total,  132 ; Total 
additions,  63  ; Total  contributions,  $994  55 ; Ningpo 
Mission  $734  60.  Here  are  seven  hundred  com- 
municants. The  harvest  following  the.  years  of  past 
patient  culture  by  men  and  women  who  have  finished 
their  work  and  entered  upon  their  reward  is  just 
beginning.  There  is  also  a Ningpo  native  training 
school  for  young  men  in  which  great  interest  is  taken 
by  the  Christian  Chinese,  who  support  it  now  and  con- 
tributed to  its  erection. 

The  people  are  coming  to  believe  in  these  teachers 
with  an  increasing  reverence.  There  are  cases  of 
what  is  believed  by  the  Chinese  to  be  demoniacal 
possessions,  and  the  phenomena  are  very  like  the  New 
Testament  descriptions.  The  people  have  sent  for 
both  missionaries  and  native  Christians  to  pray  for 
them  and  to  read  the  Scriptures,  and  in  several  in- 
stances they  have  recovered.  The  fact  has,  however, 
no  more  significance  than  the  growing  confidence 
which,  even  though  somewhat  superstitious,  gives 


185 


access,  at  least,  to  a people  so  hard  in  the  past  to 
reach. 

The  work  in  country  villages  about  Ningpo,  mostly 
under  native  ministers  and  teachers,  is  very  pros- 
perous. Cities  are  centres  of  evil  agencies,  dissipat- 
ing all  healthful  influences  and  overcoming  the  weak ; 
but  this  is  balanced  by  the  ability,  qualities  and 
opportunities  of  those  who  do  turn  to  good.  There 
is,  however,  an  advantage  of  work  done  in  the  coun* 
try  never  truly  estimated,  which  is,  that  country 
Christians  are  always  coming  to  the  city.  It  is  the 
nesting  for  the  soaring. 

The  Woman’s  Work  for  Woman  marches  on  in  the 
form  of  all  good  doing.  The  force  of  native  women 
here  is  large,  effective  and  inexpensive.  There  are 
five  native  women.  One  has  had  access  to  3,093  in- 
dividuals ; another  313 ; another  2,066,  and  so  on  until 
a total  of  11,904  has  been  reached. 

The  money  paid  for  these  services  will  be  a surprise 
to  many  as  showing  how  much  can  be  done  for  a trifle, 
and  may  encourage  those  who  have  held  back  because 
they  could  not  do  what,  in  our  country,  is  regarded  as 
a great  thing,  and  have  incurred  the  guilt  of  doing 
nothing.  The  first  year  • that  a woman  engages  she 
gets  $2  00  a month ; the  second,  $2  50 ; the  third, 
$3  00 ; and  the  fourth  year  she  receives  fifty  cents  a 
month  for  rent,  or  is  allowed  a room  in  a house 
belonging  to  the  mission  of  the  Native  Bible  Readers. 
Itinerant  missionaries  are  supported  by  the  church 
of  Freehold,  N.  J.,  or  ladies  of  it,  another  by  the 
church  of  Goshen,  N.  Y.,  and  another  by  one  of  the 
Ningpo  churches  temporarily. 

As  ©ne  passes  about  looking  upon  the  work  for  the 
souls  of  the  Chinese,  much  is  seen  of  general  interest. 


186 


Their  merchant  fleets  are  remarkable;  great  forests 
of  junk  masts  are  seen  in  every  city  and  village 
skirting  on  sea  coast  or  river.  The  Chinese  are  by 
nature  boatmen,  though  they  are  not  much  to  speak 
of  in  naval  contests.  When  the  French  were  batter- 
ing down  the  forts  of  Lou-Chow,  the  Chinese  had  a 
vastly  better  fleet  of  iron-clad  ships  than  America  had 
during  the  late  war,  but  they  had  not  what  makes  even 
a wooden  fleet  formidable  against  iron-clada — courage. 
Their  naval  authorities  made  excuses  of  every  kind  ta 
avoid  meeting  the  French ; “ they  were  repairing,”  they 
said,  and  then  ‘‘  coaling.”  When  this  excuse  would 
satisfy  the  people  no  longer,  and  when  they  had  gone 
to  sea,  they  came  into  port  in  a few  hours  for  more 
coal,  and  when  the  coal  came  they  were  already  so  full 
that  some  of  the  coal  boats  are  reported  to  have  been 
scuttled.  Then  they  started,  as  it  was  said,  to  crush 
the  old  French  Admiral,  and  he,  hearing  of  their 
presence  in  the  sea,  started  after  them.  They  tried  to 
dodge  ; but  coming  around  a point  running  out  from  the 
coast,  they  saw  him  coming,  and  immediately  turned 
stern.  Two  of  the  faster  ships  got  away,  but  the 
slower  ones  ran  into  an  inlet  around  an  island.  The 
French  corralled  the  mouth,  ^d  a torpedo  boat  slipped 
up  unobserved  in  the  night  and  fixed  a torpedo  which 
soon  blew  one  of  them  to  atoms.  The  other  one  com- 
ing down  on  the  other  side  of  the  island  saw  the 
French  waiting,  when  they  turned  the  water  into  her 
hold.  When  she  had  sunk  to  the  port  holes,  they^ 
from  their  small  boats,  broke  in  the  ports  with  their 
rowing  poles  and  she  went  down.  Thus  two  out  of 
the  four  were  destroyed  without  firing  a gun.  This 
was  the  last  of  any  aggressive  warfare  from  the 
Chinese  fleet. 


I 


187 


They  have  not  the  self-confidence  necessary  to  com- 
mand. Their  success,  if  they  ever  have' a navy,  will 
be  secured  under  European  officers.  But  if  all  the 
cities  on  the  sea  coast  and  rivers  were  destroyed,  China 
would  be  there  all  the  same ; and  if  she  were  captured 
by  a foreign  power  she  would  still  be  China,  and  the 
conqueror  would  have  to  submit  to  her  unconquerable 
conservatism. 

The  merchant  and  trading  ships  of  these  people 
are  strange  in  the  extreme ; they  are  built  of  wood, 
open  at  the  stern  almost  to  the  water’s  edge ; and  the 
ends  are  curved  up.  The  sail- power  is  suspended  on 
one  centre  mast.  The  sails  are  made  of  cocoa  matting 
and  drop  down  by  tackle  either  from  the  top  yard  or 
are  drawn  up  to  it  like  a window-blind ; on  each  side, 
of  the  prow  is  a great  black  projecting  eye — a dragon’s 
eye — which  gives  the  vessel  a monster-like  appearance. 
The  explanation  of  this  was  given  by  a Chinaman  in 
the  following  pigeon  English : “ No  have  eye  ; no  can 
see.  No  can  see ; no  can  go.” 

Ningpo  has  been  the  field  of  labor  of  Dr.  Nevius,  one 
of  the  ablest  missionaries  in  China,  and  the  results 
of  his  thorough  work  are  apparent  on  every  side.  He 
wrought  on  the  old  methods  for  many  years,  and  was 
not  entirely  satisfied  with*  the  fruits,  which  he  did  not 
think  as  great  as  desired,  or  as  could  be  obtained  from 
the  same  labor  and  expense.  Accordingly  he  has  put 
his  ability  and  devotion  in  a more  efficient  way  in 
order  to  work  out  a new  policy.  It  was  only  a feeling 
after  it,  if  haply  he  may  find  it.  It  is  not  revolution- 
ary but  rather  auxiliary.  He  has  his  objections  to 
the  formor  course  in  a moderate  but  forcible  manner 
in  a little  book  called  “Methods  of  Mission  Work,” 
which  is  full  of  collateral  instruction,  whether  his  ob- 
jections to  the  old  methods  be  acceptable  or  not. 


183 


The  old  system,  by  the  use  of  foreign  funds,  fosters 
and  stimulates  the  growth  of  the  native  churches  in 
the  first  stage  of  development,  and  then  gradually 
withdraws  this  support  and  leaves  the  young  church 
standing  on  its  feet.  The  advocate  of  the  new  de- 
parture holds  that  the  desired  end  of  self-support  is 
most  quickly  and  satisfactorily  gained  by  teaching 
the  principles  of  self-dependence  and  independence 
at  the  start.  The  old  uses  freely,  and  as  far  as  prac- 
ticable, the  more  advanced  and  intelligent  of  the 
native  church  members,  in  the  capacity  of  paid  Col- 
porteurs, Bible  agents.  Evangelists  or  Heads  of  Sta- 
tions ; while  the  new  proceeds  on  the  assumption  that 
the  persons  employed  in  these  relations  would  be  more 
useful  in  the  end  by  being  left  in  their  original  homes 
and  employments.  The  relative  advantages  of  these 
systems  may  be  determined  by  two  tests — adaptability 
to  the  proposed  end  and  Scriptural  authority. 

The  author  argues  the  case  on  both  these  points  and 
then  appeals  to  experience  to  verify  his  position.  He 
holds  that  the  change  of  views  of  not  a few  of  the  older 
missionaries  in  China  was  not  theoretical  but  practical, 
his  own  with  the  rest.  This  he  declares  was  brought 
about  by  a long  and  painful  experience,  and  that  his 
conclusions  have  been  only  a confirmation  of  what  he 
regards  as  the  Bible  teachings  on  the  subject.  He 
maintains  that  if  these  had  been  followed,  the  same  or 
greater  results  would  have  been  reached  with  an  im- 
mense economy.  The  instinctive  desire  of  the  mission- 
ary is  for  success  in  the  cause  of  his  Lord ; the  Church 
at  home  prays  for  it,  gives  to  it  and  expects  it,  and  is 
most  happy  when  it  comes.  Especially  is  it  joyous 
news  to  hear  that  work  is  being  accomplished  for  the 
natives  by  natives.  All  are  agreed  on  this ; the  ques- 


189 


tion  is  only  when  they  shall  be  employed  ? How  shall 
selfishness  on  the  part  of  the  native  be  avoided,  where 
the  struggle  for  existence  develops  a cupidity  which 
the  young  Christian  is  not  able  always  to  withstand  ? 

The  other  reasons  formulated  by  Dr.  Nevius  against 
the  old  method  are  ; (1)  Making  paid  agents  of  new 
converts  afiects  injuriously  the  stations  with  which 
they  are  connected.  It  takes  the  best  men,  and  those 
most  needed,  from  the  stations  and  places  them  where 
they  may  never  have  as  much  influence  for  good; 
again,  men  who,  like  Paul,  ministered  to  their  own 
necessities,  lo«e  all  their  influence  with  the  people  in 
becoming  paid  foreign  agents  ; besides,  jealousies  and 
dissatisfactions  arise  on  the  part  of  others,  who  think 
themselves  just  as  competent.  (2)  Making  a paid 
agent  of  a new  convert  often  proves  an  injury  to  him- 
self (3)  The  old  system  makes  it  diflicult  to  judge 
between  the  true  and  false,  whether  they  be  preachers 
or  church  members.  (4)  The  employment  system 
tends  to  excite  a mercenary  spirit.  (5)  The  employ- 
ment system  tends  to  stop  the  voluntary  work  of  un» 
paid  members.  (6)  The  old  systems  tend  to  mar  the 
character  and  lessen  the  influence  of  the  missionary 
enterprise,  both  in  the  eyes  of  foreigners  and  natives. 

The  opprobrious  epithet  of  “ Rice  Christians’^  jis  in 
almost  universal  circulation  in  the  East,  and  multi- 
tudes of  foreigners  believe  that  the  churches  are  only 
a company  of  hirelings.  We  heard  a Christian  man 
telling  of  a Chinaman  who  had  served  a European 
Christian  for  years  having  in  the  meantime  professed 
religion.  When  his  master  was  leaving  the  country 
for  Europe  he  exhorted  him  to  be  faithful  to  his  pro- 
fession. To  this  he  replied  : “ When  I serve  you,  I is . 
a Christian ; when  I serve  another  man,  I get  another 


190 


joss.’^  This  is  far  too  common  a feeling.  Its  exist- 
ence calls  for  serious  consideration. 

These  statements  are  followed  in  another  chapter  of 
Dr.  Nevius’  book  by  the  inquiry,  how  shall  we  deal 
with  new  converts,  in  which  the  purpose  of  the  new 
system  is  set  forth.  The  first  answer  is  Scriptural, 
“ Let  every  man  abide  in  the  same  calling  wherein 
he  was  called (2)  “ Tke  importance  of  precedents 
and  this  is  illustrated  in  the  tendency  of  the  Chinese 
mind  to  follow  a fixed  routine  and  to  be  governed  by 
precedents ; if  one  convert  is  employed,  the  rest  ex- 
pect to  follow  the  order  of  civil  service.  Hence  the 
most  important  fact  in  Chinese  life  lies  in  the  right 
starting  out',  for  he  will  surely  follow  the  original  direc- 
tion by  force  of  momentum.  Dr.  Nevius’  plan  is  to 
put  men  and  women  to  work  with  their  fellow-men 
as  soon  as  they  know  any  thing,  and  to  do  it  volun- 
tarily, or  what  is  better,  under  the  constraining  power 
of  Divine  love.  They  must  teach  as  they  learn,  and 
their  reward  in  the  main  is  to  be  the  consciousness  and 
comfort  of  the  good  done. 

This  service  is,  pf  course,  rendered  in  subordinate  po- 
sitions, as  helpers  in  their  own  churches  and  under  care- 
ful supervision.  The  training  should  constantly  go  on. 
The  experiment  is  being  tested  in  Shantung.  Protestant 
missionaries  occupied  much  of  this  district  in  1860. 
During  the  years  immediately  following,  the  whole  of 
Eastern  Shantung  was  traversed  by  members  of  the 
American  Baptist  and  Presbyterian  Missions.  In 
1866,  Rev.  C.  W.  Mateer  and  Rev.  H.  Corbett  made  a 
tour  into  Central  Shantung  for  the  purpose  of  selling 
and  distributing  books.  This  was  the  first  visit  paid 
to  Ching-Chow-fu  by  Protestant  missionaries. 

In  1875 -there  were,  in  this  region,  only  two  con- 


191 


verts,  and  these  were  connected  with  the  work  of  Rev. 
Mr.  Corbett  just  before  the  famine  in  1877.  Mr. 
Richards  had  gathered  about  him  a little  company  of 
inquirers,  and  Dr.  Nevius  had  also  a few  in  the 
district  of  An  Chiu.  Mr.  Richards  and  the  Rev. 
Alfred  G.  Jones  gave  all  their  time  and  energies  to 
the  work  of  famine  relief,  and  Dr.  Nevius  took  part 
in  the  same  work  at  Kao-Yai.  This  relief  effort  pre- 
sented the  Christian  religion,  as  seen  in  its  mission- 
aries and  their  labors,  in  a new  light  to  the  natives. 
It  was  a wonderful  sermon  on  the  spirit  of  Christian- 
ity; they  understood  it  in  its  sacrificial  aspect  for  the 
first  time.  In  1879  Mr.  Corbett  settled  there  and  began 
his  life  work.  There  are,  in  this  region,  connected  with 
the  English  Baptist  Mission  and  with  the  mission  of  Revs. 
Corbett  and  Nevius,  one  hundred  and  fifty  stations 
and  about  three  thousand  five  hundred  converts,  one 
thousand  belonging  to  the  Baptist  Mission.  And  all  in 
substantial  agreement  with  what  is  called  the  new  plan 
of  operations. 

All  these  stations  provide  their  own  houses  of  wor- 
ship ; none  of  them  are  cared  for  by  a resident  paid 
preacher ; but  in  each  of  them  one  or  more  of  its  own 
members  voluntarily  conducts  services  on  Sunday,  and 
attends  to  the  general  spiritual  interests  of  the  little 
company  of  believers  with  whom  he  is  connected, 
under  the  superintendence  of  the  foreign  missionary 
in  charge.  In  all  these  stations  great  prominence  is 
given  to  catechetical  teaching,  and  also  to  giving 
special  instruction  to  the  leaders,  with  a view  to  their 
teaching  others.  These  form  the  distinguishing 
features  of  our  work. 

The  Baptist  stations  have  multiplied  chiefly  through 
the  voluntary  labors  of  unpaid  Christians ; and  radiate 


192 


from  the  centre  at  Ching  chow-fu.  Their  staff  of 
Chinese  laborers  now  consists  of  a native  pastor,  who 
is  a Nanking  man,  .baptized  more  than  twenty  years 
ago,  and  four  evangelists  paid  by  the  mission,  and 
two  elders  paid  by  the  native  Christians. 

The  work  of  Dr.  Nevius  has  spread  from  the  centre 
at  Kao-yai,  almost  entirely,  so  far  as  the  natives  are 
concerned,  through  the  voluntary  labors  of  Chinese 
Christians.  This  staff  of  paid  laborers  at  present,  con- 
sists of  two  native  helpers,  supported  hitherto  partly 
by  the  natives  and  partly  by  himself.  ' 

Mr.  Corbett  commenced  his  work  with  the  assistance 
of  church  members  from  other  stations.  He  has  used 
a much  larger  number  of  helpers,  and  his  stations  are 
more  disconnected,  being  found  in  the  different  districts 
to  which  his  preachers  and  evangelists  have  been  sent. 
His  staff  of  native  laborers  consists  of  about  twenty- 
two  paid  helpers,  and  twenty  teachers.  The  latter  re- 
ceive from  him  on  an  average  about  fifteen  dollars  a 
year,  with  what  they  can  get  from  the  natives  in 
addition. 

These  helpers  carry  on  the  work  under  the  supervi- 
sion of  superiors;  one  of  Dr.  Nevius’  helpers  has 
charge  of  nearly  forty  stations,  which  he  visits  regu- 
larly every  two  months.  His  other  helper  has  charge 
of  ten  stations.  On  the  Sabbath  these  helpers  hold  a 
general  or  union  service,  leaders  and  other  prominent 
persons  being  present,  the  object  being  to  make  this 
union  service  a model  for  the  leaders  in  the  congrega- 
tion to  pattern  after  in  their  several  stations  during 
the  seven  or  eight  weeks  when  they  are  by  themselves. 
The  leaders  are  sometimes  formally  selected  by  their 
stations,  often  providentially ; sometimes  one  is 
leader  because  he  founded  the  station,  the  members 


193 


being  gathered  in  by  his  labors;  sometimes  the  mobt 
important  members  are  women,  who  continue  to  retain 
their  influence  after  men  have  been  gathered  in. 
The  chapels  and  furnishings  are  provided  by  the 
natives ; often  the  chapel  belongs  to  the  leader ; some- 
times it  is  rented  by  the  Christians ; and  frequently  is  a 
building  erected  through  their  own  sacrifices.  The  in- 
struction of  these  congregations  devolves  usually  on 
the  leaders  ; this  is  unavoidable,  for  educated  teachers 
cannot  be  found,  nor  will  the  Church  be  able  in  years 
to  come,  perhaps  never,  to  keep  up  with  the  demand. 
There  are  less  than  a dozen  of  candidates  for  the 
ministry  in  the  whole  country,  while  the  number  of 
stations  is  constantly  increasing ; and  if  it  were 
possible  to  introduce  paid  preachers  into  each  station, 
it  would  not  be  a present  blessing. 

The  leaders  know  the  people  and  their  wants 
and  will  grow  in  grace  and  knowledge,  if  they  are 
well  selected,  as  fast  as  the  people  require.  Most 
of  the  Christians  are  the  converts  of  these  leaders 
and  are  more  interested  in  them  than  in  any 
stranger.  This  bare  outline  will  give  an  idea  of  the 
new  departure.  It  is  not  new.  It  is  the  secret  of 
the  amazing-  evangelizing  power  of  the  Methodist 
Church  in  the  early  history  of  the  United  States.  It 
has  difficulties  which  may  become  chronic,  but  before 
that  time  the  body  of  believers  will  be  strong  enough 
to  regulate  them,  or  if  it  be  necessary  to  disuse 
them  the  body  will  have  strength  to  stand  it.  Any 
motion  in  the  direction  of  self- work,  and  self  support, 
and  self  responsibility  is  better  than  no  motion.  The 
problem  of  self  development  and  maintenance  must  be 
solved  and  every  effort  will  tend  to  bring  about  the 
desired  result.  No  better  men  could  be  found  in 


194 


the  whole  Church  to  work  out  the  problem  than  the 
men  of  Shantung  and  their  Protestant  allies.  No 
decision  need  now  be  made  between  the  old  and  new 
plans ; both  can  work  on  their  lines  and  time,  and  its 
providences  will  soon  settle  the  case  to  the  satisfac- 
tion of  all. 

There  is  another  agency  in  that  country,  working  on 
some  of  the  general  principles  described,  which  is  pro- 
ducing good  results.  It  is  the  China  Inland  Mission. 
This  mission  is  made  up  of  European  lay  workers,  who 
have  gone  into  the  interior,  determined  to  live  with 
the  people,  and  as  the  people.  Some  of  them  wear 
the  Chinese  dress,  which  may  have  something  to 
recommend  it,  as  it  saves  them  from  the  abominable 
remarks  of  the  Chinese,  who  are  a race  of  black- 
guards, and  permits  them  to  go  unnoticed  about  their 
work.  But  we  doubt  the  policy  of  European  men 
changing  their  dress,  and  especially  of  their  assuming 
the  queue  as  in  any  way  commending  them  either  as 
men  or  as  embassadors  of  Christ.  It  is  without 
scriptural  example,  and  is  purely  a human  device  with 
no  higher  sanction  than  low  expediency.  The  Saviour 
never  changed  his  garb  to  win  men  to  himself ; besides, 
this  gospel  of  garbs  has  not  much  in  results  to  com- 
mend it  anywhere.  Church  millinery,  English  or 
Chinese,  has  no  place  in  the  commission,  “Go  ye  into 
all  the  world,  and  preach  the  gospel  to  every  creature.’^ 

In  this  mission,  however,  are  many  men  and  women 
of  great  devotion,  among  whom  is  the  young  athlete 
student,  so  well-known,  and  who  has  so  faithfully  and 
patiently  wrought,  giving  up  every  thing  that  the 
fashionable  or  ambitious  world  worships,  to  be  the 
humble  missionary  of  Christ  Jesus.  Good  progress 
has  been  made  this  year  in  the  Province  Shan-si.  In 


195 


one  place  over  two  hundred  persons  were  baptized, 
beside  there  were  a large  number  of  persons  deeply 
interested.  This  has  been  largely  accomplished 
through  native  agency.  Kemarkable  preachers  have 
come  to  the  front — men  of  ability  and  of  devotion. 
The  work  has  taken  a practical  turn.  In  the  North, 
opium  smoking  is  prevalent.  To  meet  this  evil. 
Opium  Kefuges,  with  the  distinctive  end  of  influencing 
the  unfortunate  victims  to  abstinence,  have  been  pro- 
vided. Heathens  entering  these  Kefuges  are  required 
to  put  away  idolatry  and  pray  unto  the  true  God. 

The  natives  believe  in  the  prayers  of  these  Christian 
Samaritans.  When  one  of  them  becomes  very  ill, 
beyond  human  help,  certain  Christians,  who  believe 
in  the  word  of  God  as  it  is  written,  pray  for  them 
with  the  laying  on  of  hands.  Their  supplications 
have  been  answered  so  often  that  the  heathen  have 
ceased  to  doubt  that  God  does  both  hear  and  answer 
prayer.  These  refuges  are  self-supporting  as  well  as 
Christian  agencies  for  good  beside. 

Considerable  progress  has  also  been  efiected  in  an- 
other direction,  that  is,  in  the  development  of  Woman’s 
Work  in  China,  In  that  province  of  Shan-si  we  have 
now  three  distinct  stations,  with  two  foreign  ladies  in 
each.  Of  course,  they  have  native  Christians  with 
them,  both  men  and  women,  and  so  far  this  work  has 
given  great  encouragement.  One  Norwegian  sister 
living  for  five  months  in  a village  with  the  natives 
alonCj  sends  most  interesting  accounts  of  the  work 
done  there.  Another  Norwegian  missionary,  living  in 
a city,  tells  of  men  and  women  throwing  away  their 
idols  and  turning  to  the  worship  and  service  of  the 
true  God.  The  experience  of  this  year  in  this  direc- 
tion encourages  the  adoption  of  this  method  more 


. 196? 


largely  in  the  interior  of  China,  that  is,  of  sending 
single  ladies  in  twos  or  threes  into  cities  without  any 
other  European  associate.  In  another  province,  that 
of  Kiang'si,  are  also  three  cities  in  the  interior 
similarly  occupied,  and  with  the  very  happiest  results. 
This  may  be  called  the  Zenana  work  of  China,  and 
as  woman’s  work  is  developed  so  largely  in  ot>  er 
countries,  we  believe  that  it  is  destined  to  develop 
also  in  this  vast  empire. 

It  k not  possible  to  make  a long  journey  without 
untoward  and  ridiculous  disasters — not  great  enough 
to  call  self-possession  to  aid,  but  too  irritating  to  be  over- 
looked. Unctuousness  has  not  been  either  a natural 
or  acknowledged  grace,  but  it  had  to  be  endured  as  a 
new  experience.  It  is  necessary  to  carry  a hand-bag 
with  the  things  that  may  be  needed  any  hour,  in 
which  medicines  and  money  must  be  included,  for 
the  money  of  this  country  is  in  silver  dollars,  wortk 
about  as  much  as  the  American  Bland  dollar,  and 
paper  which  cannot  be  trusted  to  pass  current  from  one 
city  to  another.  In  this  hand-bag  we  had  a bottle  of 
castor  oil.  We  were  journeying  to  church  a little  be- 
hind time,  and  as  money  had  to  be  carried  in  hand 
everywhere,  it  had  to  go  to  church  with  certain 
preachable  documents.  On  the  way  that  pint  bottle 
of  castor  oil  collapsed,  and  emptied  itself  into  the 
bag  of  light  colored  leather ; it  rose  two-thirds  of  the 
way  up  its  sides  and  oozed  through,  marking  the 
tide-line  in  the  leather  and  every  thing  else.  It  was 
not  discovered  until  we  were  at  the  door  of  the 
sanctuary,  when  the  congregation  were  craning  their 
necks  to  see  why  the  foreign  preacher  did  not  appear. 
Our  readers  can  appreciate  the  reason.  Our  hands 
were  greasy ; combs  and  brushes  were  floating ; tooth- 


197 


brushes,  gloves,  parchments,  &c.,  were  anointed.  It 
was  the  day  of  anointing  with  oil.  There  were  two 
hundred  silver  dollars  in  the  bag,  and  they  were 
sliding  against  each  ^other  in  grease.  If  the  bag  was 
touched  it  gave  forth  oil;  if  it  was  set  down  it 
greased  all  that  was  near.  It  could  not  be  taken  to 
meeting,  as  it  would  surely  reveal  itself.  Nobody 
could  have  sat  safely  with  it  in  the  same  pew ; besides,, 
the  odor  would  have  traced  it  to  its  possessor. 

The  congregation  was  fidgety.  They  had  sung  one 
hymn  after  another,  until  it  seemed  as  if  it  were  to  be 
a praise  meeting,  but  still  the  tourist  was  like  one 
having  a wolf  by  the  ears,  afraid  to  let  go  and  afraid 
to  hold  on.  Finally  a way  was  made  into  the  house 
of  the  missionary  and  a place  obtsained  for  the  fountain 
of  oil.  The  wife  went  to  the  rescue,  diving  for  abated 
values,  washing  the  two  hundred  dollars,  sopping  the 
oil  from  the  papers,  when  the  preacher  appeared 
before  the  wearied  audience,  like  one  of  the  ancient 
priesthood,  with  anointing  oil  running  down  his  robes. 
When  his  hand  was  lifted  to  wipe  his  face,  the  odor 
was  wafted  upon  the  congregation.  Whatever  else 
might  have  been  wanting  in  the  sermon,  it  was  not 
destitute  of  unction. 

Before  leaving  China  it  will  be  well  to  give  the 
impression  received  from  a general  survey  from  a few 
of  the  hill-tops,  for  nothing  more  can  bs  done  by  a 
tourist,  however  diligent.  This  impression  is  peculiar^ 
for  there  is  no  other  foreign  country  which  can  fur- 
nish a basis  of  comparison.  It  is  solitary  in  its  life- 
history  and  modes  of  thought  and  manners.  In  its 
religious  character  it  is  confounding,  there  being  to 
the  observer  no  law  that  solves  its  mysteries.  The 
impression  first  made  is  of  utter  hopelessness,  but  this 


198 


is  dissipated  by  the  confidence  of  the  missionaries  and 
the  educated  Chinese  Christians.  The  Chinese  Empire 
is  a national  riddle,  but  on  a closer  observation  ele- 
ments of  progress  already  attained  appear.  The  peo- 
ple are  slow  and  will  not  be  crowded,  but  hold  fast  to 
what  satisfies  their  judgment.  Their  conservatism  is 
like  the  ratchet  that  follows  the  cogs  of  a great  wheel, 
which,  while  it  does  not  help  it  onward,  keeps  it  from 
going  back.  Good,  faithful.  God-fearing  work  has 
been  done  in  China  for  more  than  fifty  years — work 
that  could  only  be  done  as  seeing  him  that  is  invisible. 
Already  the  paths  have  been  straightened,  and  pro- 
gress is  becoming  apparent. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

THE  JAPANESE  EMPIRE. 

HE  Japanese  Empire  is  made  up  of  groups  of 


islands,  earth  dots,  peering  from  the  sea.  There 
are  four  large  islands  and  some  smaller  ones  of  no 
particular  value,  being  barren  and  uninhabited. 
The  most  important  is  Nippon,  which  is  the  J apanese 
name  for  the  Empire.  Of  the  whole  territory 
of  Japan  only  about  one- tenth  is  cultivated ; the 
rest  being  mountainous  and  sterile,  except  the  valleys 
on  the  rivers  and  bays. 

The  country  is  incomparably  beautiful;  it  is  sui 
generis;  it  is  raised  out  of  a bed  of  fire  and  is  of  red 
color ; and  suits  the  Japanese  especially,  as  it  looks 
like  its  inhabitants,  and  they  like  their  mother  earth. 
There  is  a peculiar  grotesqueness  to  the  eyes  of  for- 
eigners in  both  country  and  people,  which  are  planned 
on  a small  scale.  The  mountains  are  beautiful,  but 


199 


few  of  them  are  sublime.  The  rivers  are  deep  and 
navigable,  but  not  great.  The  forests  .are  abundant, 
but  of  small  timber;  the  valleys  are  narrow;  the 
farms  are  not  only  “ wee  but  winsome.” 

But  all  tillable  land  is  cultivated  in  the  highest 
<iegree  of  art ; every  thing  is  straight  and  formal ; 
trimming  with  the  Japanese  farmer  is  the  business  of 
life.  Hedges  are  trimmed;  trees  also;  grass  on  the 
lawn;  every  growth,  like  sheep,  has  its  shearing 
time.  It  is  a land  of  living  green,  lying  between 
the  temperate  and  tropical  zones,  and  has  the  beauties 
and  utilities  of  both. 

The  people  are  exceedingly  small;  one  is  reminded 
of  the  conies,  “ a feeble  folk  who  have  their  houses 
in  the  rocks.”  Japan  is  fortified  by  nature;  her 
small  men  are  supplemented  by  the  strength  of  her 
natural  position.  They  are,  as  a people,  poor ; but 
they  will  get  over  this  as  the  country  comes  more  into 
the  life  and  light  of  civilization.  Their  physique  will 
improve  under  the  better  conditions  that  Christian 
civilization  will  bring  them.  Licentiousness,  which 
always  reduces  body  and  intellect,  is,  with  multitudes, 
the  ruling  passion.  This  stunts  and  minifies,  beside 
introducing  disorders  which  become  hereditary  and 
dwarf  and  weaken  all  whom  it  curses. 

The  religious  life  of  Japan  can  do  nothing  toward 
correcting  her  moral  and  physical  disorders,  because 
it  is  efiete.  The  ancient  religions  are  now  only 
formalisms,  kept  up  by  a love  for  the  tradi  ional,  and 
by  selfishness  and  superstition.  There  are  two,  such 
as  they  are,  which  hold  considerable  sway — Shintoism 
and  Buddhism;  but  these  run  into  each  other  as  the 
chain  and  filling  in  a fabric,  so  that  the  numbers  of 
Shintoists  or  Buddhists,  pure  and  simple,  are  small. 


200 


The  Japanese  are  eclectics,  and  are  exceedingly  fond  of 
religious  mixtures. 

Every  Japanese,  at  his  birth,  is  placed  by  his 
parents  uuder  the  protection  of  some  Shinto  deity, 
whose  foster  child  he  becomes,  while  the  funeral  rites 
attendant  upon  his  getting  out  of  the  world  are  handed 
over  to  the  Buddhist^,  to  which  his  family  belongs,  so 
the  Buddhists  are  the  national There  has 
been  in  the  last  few  years  an  effort  to  revive  Shinto- 
ism at  funerals.  The  explanation  of  this  singular 
state  of  things  is  to  be  found  in  the  religions  them- 
selves. Shintoism  is  an  exceedingly  easy  religious 
system,  demanding  little  more  from  its  followers  than 
a visit  to  the  local  temple  during  the  annual  festival, 
and  teaching  no  theory  as  to  the  destiny  of  m‘kn,  or  as 
to  his  moral  duties  in  this  world.  But  the  Buddhists 
supplement  this  indispensable  need  in  the  constitution 
of  men,  teaching  by  dictum  or  by  ceremonials, 
splendid  rituals  and  gorgeous  decorations.  All  these 
devices  are  set  toward  a religious  end,  however  imper- 
fect they  may  be. 

Buddhism  has  always  been  an  exceedingly  accommo- 
dating religion ; it  has  built  the  bridges  over  which 
almost  every  form  of  religion  could  come.  The 
native  gods  of  Shintoism  or  of  any  other  form  of  idola- 
try were  declared  to  be  merely  avatars  of  some  Hindu 
deity ; so  it  has  stood  like  a collossus  striding  over  all 
religions  and  absorbing  all  in  itself.  To  accept  Budd- 
hism, therefore,  was  only  adding  another  to  those  on 
hand.  Shinto  is  a Chinese  word,  meaning  “way  of  the 
gods,”  and  was  adopted,  after  the  introduction  of 
Buddhism,  to  distinguish  the  native  beliefs  and  prac- 
tices from  those  of  the  foreign  religion,  which  was 
known  as  Butsu  do,  “the  way  of  Buddha.” 


201 


' 'i 


Shintoism  in  Japan  and  Taoism  in  China  are 
closely  akin,  and  have  the  same  central  idea — the 
worship  of  ancestors.  The  sacrifices  always  consist 
of  such  articles  as  the  dead  may  be  supposed  to 
need.  These  ancestral  gods  were  at  first  household  gods, 
then  local,  and  afterward  national,  while  the  sover- 
eign’s ancestral  god  was  chief  of  all.  The  evidence 
shows  that  the  Persian  and  pantheistic  custom  of  wor- 
shipping the  heavenly  bodies  came  in  as  native  ad- 
juncts, including  wind,  fire,  water,  mountains,  streams, 
woods,  &c.,  and  that  the  identification  of  the 'Mikado’s 
most  remote  and  celebrated  predecessors  with  the  sun 
took  place  about  400  A.  D.  A temple  was  erected, 
where  the  emblem,  a mirror,  was  deposited,  and  a 
daughter  of  the  Mikado  was  appointed  to  be  the  chief 
priestess.  The  priesthood  was  not  hereditary,  but  in 
cases  of  heroes,  to  whom  temples  were  dedicated,  they 
were  supposed  to  be  either  lineal  descendents  of  the 
god  himself  or  of  his  chief  retainer,  and  now  many 
men  are  serving,  in  temples  who  trace  their  lineage 
back  to  the  age  of  the  gods. 

Hero  worship  lies  in  the  very  heart  of  Shintoism. 
In  historical  times  the  elevation  of  great  men  to  the 
ranks  of  the  gods  has  been  due  to  a spontaneous  im- 
pulse. The  mos^  popular  gods  are  those  whose  influ- 
ence is  most  thoroughly  diffused,  nor  do  they  represent 
mere  abstract  qualities.  The  founders  of  the  Mikado 
race  and  men  of  more  recent  times  were  celebrated  for 
their  valor,  loyalty  and  other  eminent  qualities. 

With  moral  teachings  Shintoism  has  liothing  to  do ; 
the  field  was  open  to  Buddha,  Shintoism  merely  said, 
follow  your  natural  impulses  and  obey  the  laws  of  the 
state.  It  has  nothing  to  do  with  the  rewards  and 
punishments  of  a future  life.  The  continuance  of  the 


202 


spirit  after  death  is  believed  in,  but  whether  in  joy  or 
pain  is  nowhere  indicated.  It  is  simply  a disem- 
bodied spirit  who,  according  tc  its  natural  disposition, 
may  be  powerful  for  good  or  evil  to  those  left  on  the 
earth,  and  may  be  propitiated  by  offerings. 

It  was  left  to  Buddhism  to  supply  all  other  teach- 
ings on  the  subject.  Shintoism  had,  however,  one 
observance  which  suggests  both  a moral  code  and  a 
positive  law ; this  was  the  ceremony  of  purification, 
the  ritual  of  which  is  still  in  existence.  This  had  the 
idea  in  it  that  every  thing  known  to  us  as  crime  or  sin 
was  considered  simply  as  pollution,  which  must  be 
washed  away  with  water,  and  expiated  by  the  sacri- 
fices of  valuable  goods  in  proportion  to  the  pollution 
incurred.  The  gods  could  then  be  importuned  ta 
sweep  away  the  offence  and  the  defiled  were  pronounced 
clean.  This  ceremony  can  still  be  witnessed  on  the 
15th  of  June  and  December. 

Shintoism  in  its  original  condition  does  not  appear 
to  have  had  much  idolatry  in  it ; for  the  Japanese  had 
in  the  earlier  stages  of  their  history  no  word  for 
picture  or  image  until  one  was  introduced  from  China. 
The  pottery  and  images  of  men  found  buried  are  of 
much  later  origin.  They  represent  a system  of  sub- 
stitution of  rude  creations  in  the  likeness  of  men 
in  place  of  real  men  and  animals  formerly  slaughtered 
at  the  tombs  of  the  great.  Nor  is  it  certain  that 
these  clay  images  were  not  brought  from  the  Corean 
peninsula. 

When  Buddhism  came,  image  worship  came  with 
it  into  the  Shinto  temples.  One  of  the  last  exam- 
ples of  this  practice  may  be  seen  at  Shiba,  in  Tokio, 
where  the  emblem  of  the  deified  ruler,  lye-yasu,  is 
preserved  in  lifelike  effigy — carved  in  wood.  The 


203 


other  form  of  prevalent  religion — Buddhism— has 
been  presented  in  connection  with  India,  its  birth- 
place, and  China,  its  stronghold,  and  will  require 
little  more  than  mention  here  in  its  Japanese  modifi- 
cations. 

The  introduction  of  Buddhism  in  J apan  does  not  cer- 
tainly date  before  the  embassy  from  China  to  India,  65 
A.  D.  Three  centuries  later  it  made  its  way  into 
Korea,  where  it  struck  deep  root,  as  we  find  the  King 
Hakusai  sending  a golden  image  of  the  Buddha  and 
some  of  the  sacred  books  as  a present  to  a sovereign 
of  Japan  in  552,  and  in  554  this  same  king  sent  over 
nine  monks  to  replace  the  seven  who  had  previously 
visited  Japan.  The  time  of  its  rooting  was,  no  doubt, 
between  this  date  and  623,  at  which  time  the  number 
of  monks  was  816,  nuns,  569,  and  the  number  of 
temples  and  monasteries  46. 

As  this  long  dominant  religion  is  well-known,  and  as 
it  is  on  the  decline  in  all  the  countries  in  which  it  has 
held  sway,  it  will  interest  only  the  few  who  can  find 
it  in  all  its  endless  detail  in  other  works,  and  as  the 
many  who  have  no  more  concern  in  it  than  any  other 
dead  thing  will  grow  weary,  nothing  further  need  be 
said,  except  that  in  Japan  it  is  no  longer  a power. 
There  is  a veneration  for  it  as  a form  of  religion 
which  served  the  religious  instincts  of  the  past,  and 
was  the  faith  of  departed  ancestors,  but  it  is  doomed. 
Many  of  its  priests  say  that  Christianity  is  sup- 
planting it  in  the  Empire,  because  nearer  the  spirit 
of  thought  and  progress  of  the  times.  Its  temples  are 
weather-beaten  and  decayed  ; its  worshippers  are  heart- 
less ; its  sacrifices  are  shams  ; its  offerings  are  value- 
less counterfeits  of  money.  Its  devotees  are  watching 
iis  departure  with  helpless  resignation.  Christianity 


204 


is  taking  hold  on  the  mind  and  confidence  of  the  peo- 
ple as  it  does  no  where  else. 

The  baptisms  of  adults  in  the  Protestant  churches, 
which  mean  full  fellowship  in  the  churches,  in  the 
last  month  of  1887,  amounted  to  eight  hundred. 
Each  of  these  churches  is  an  educational  institution, 
with  schools,  many  of  which  number  their  pupils  by 
the  thousand.  They  are  educating  multitudes,  who 
have  not  the  ability  to  do  it  themselves,  while  thousands 
pay  for  the  education  of  their  children.  The  State 
realizes  that  the  Christian  religion  is  the  religion  of 
progress,  and  this  is  the  idol  before  which  Japan  now 
renders  most  devout  service.  ^ 

The  United  Christian  Church  of  Japan,  formed 
from  the  mission  work  of  the  Presbyterian  Churches 
North  and  South,  of  the  Reformed  (Dutch),  of  the 
German  Reformed  of  the  United  States,  and  the 
Church  of  Scotland,  now  numbers  58  churches.  It  was 
organized  in  1887-8;  has  20 entirely  self-supporting;  a 
total  membership  of  6,859;  received  by  baptism  in 
1887,  1,887  ; the  contributions  of  the  native  churches 
are  $16,253;  native  ordained  ministers  number  34; 

' theological  students,  47 ; and  in  its  schools  are  2,117 
scholars. 

The  mission  work  of  the  American  Board,  located 
in  Boston,  and  representing  the  Congregationalists  of 
the  United  States,  ranks  next  in  strength,  and  the 
results  are  nearly  as  great.  Besides  these  are  the 
American  Methodists,  with  a considerable  following ; 
the  figures  we  have  not  been  able  to  secure.  The 
English  and  American  Episcopalians  and  others  are 
only  getting  a place  for  doing  eflicient  work.  The 
Roman  Catholics  are  strong,  and  have  been  for  more 
than  a century. 


205 


This  information  will  be  a surprise  to  the  few  who  love 
to  repeat  the  silly  falsehood,  that  Foreign  Missions  are 
doing  nothing  in  Japan,  and  that  Buddhism  is  still  su- 
preme there.  At  the  present  ratio  of  increase  in 
twenty-five  years  Japan  will  be  no  more  Buddhist  than 
is  the  United  States.  There  is  a movement  toward  union 
between  the  organization  known  as  the  Church  of 
Christ  in  Japan,  which  is  itself  a union  of  the  Pres- 
byterians, Reformed  (Dutch),  German  Reformed  and 
Scotch  Presbyterians,  with  the  American  Board’s  mis- 
sions, on  a common  basis.  The  work  of  the  respective 
bodies  has  reference  only  to  Japan,  and  lays  aside,  so 
far  as  it  may  be  necessary,  such  distinctive  features  of 
the  home  churches  in  polity  as  would  hinder  the  com- 
bined work  in  Japan.  In  other  words,  it  is  a grand 
movement  toward  unification  for  Japan  alone. 

Committees  have  been  appointed  representing  the 
missions  from  all  the  churches  and  native  pastors. 
They  have  made  some  commendable  progress  toward 
agreement,  the  original  draft  of  which  we  have  seen. 
This  will  be  the  basis  for  adjustment  sooner  or  later, 
because  we  believe  that  all  are  animated  by  one  aim, 
which  is  the  saving  of  Japan.  It  may  be  years  before 
it  is  fully  accomplished,  but  it  is  a movement  toward 
good.  While  there  may  be  ebbs  and  flows,  the  forces 
move  toward  a higher  tidemark  of  universal  sway. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 


WAYMARKS  OF  JAPANESE  HISTORY. 

JAPAN  is  but  the  uplifted  crest  of  a submarine 
mountain,  which  is  continually  scoured  into 
sand  by  swift  currents  all  around,  that  seem  still  to  be 
fretting  over  their  original  disturbance.  It  will  wear 
out  if  time  lasts,  and  be  lost  amidst  the  general  disso- 
lution of  the  earth’s  crust.  Volcanic  action  in  the 
geological  periods  must  have  been  widely  extended 
and  violent,  for  sinee  the  cognizance  of  written  history 
these  changes  have  been  constant.  A large  number 
of  her  mountains  are  mere  chimneys,  and  smoldering 
fires  are  still  sustained  by  connection  with  the  air 
without. 

The  physical  history  of  Japan  has  been  written 
in  flame  and  flood.  The  most  appalling  calamities  to 
life  and  industry  have  come  from  these  causes.  The 
entire  mountainous  surfaces  are  dotted  with  blazing, 
smoking  or  extinct  volcanoes.  In  1874  Taromi,  in 
Yezo,  which  had  been  believed  for  years  to  be  extinct, 
had  its  whole  top  blown  off.  Asama  Yama  is  con- 
tinually on  the  alert  for  an  opportunity  to  wreak  its 
hidden  vengeance.  Even  the  sacred  and  beautiful 
Fuji,  so  serene  in  its  covering  of  virgin  snow,  is  the 
creation  of  violence,  and  is  waiting  for  orders  to  begin 
again  its  destructive  work  through  a funnel  of  more 
than  twelve  thousand  feet  in  height.  • 

Consequently  Japan  is  a land  of  earthquakes.  Parts 
of  it  are  nearly  always  in  foreboding  tremors,  while 
cities  and  villages  have  actually  disappeared.  But  in 
ail  these  compensations  are  found,  for  it  is  a country 

206 


207 


rich  in  minerals.  The  mountains  are  built  of  the  best 
and  most  valuable  stone  in  every  variety,  from  granite 
to  the  finest  grained  sandstones.  There  are  also  some 
varieties  of  precious  stones.  Metals  are  abundant. 
The  Island  of  Sado  is  actually  built  of  gold-bearing 
quartz.  Copper  is  found  in  gieat  quantities  and  of 
the  best  quality,  and  also  lead,  tin,  antimony  and  man- 
ganese. There  are  thirty-six  varieties  of  useful  tim- 
ber, and  what  gives  the  country  its  indescribable 
beauty,  and  makes  it  look  tropical  in  the  dead  of  win- 
ter, is  its  boundless  wealth  of  evergreens.  Nature  in 
Japan  cannot  endure  baldheadedness,  and  so  covers 
her  mountains ; and  if  she  cannot  do  it  with  green,  she 
casts  over  them  glistening  snows. 

The  most  useful  timber  in  all  the  East  is  the 
bamboo,  which,  strange  as  it  may  appear,  can  be 
adapted  to  more  uses  than  any  other  single  growth  in 
the  world,  for  from  it  the  Japanese  not  only  build 
houses,  but  make  exquisite  furniture  and  bric-a-brac, 
on  whose  hard  and  polished  surface  the  painter  may 
delight  to  spread  his  colors.  There  is  little  of  fauna ; 
the  animals  having  probably  been  brought  from  other 
countries. 

There  are  few  native  singing  birds;  those  belong- 
ing to  the  country  are  birds  of  prey,  such  as  eagles, 
hawks  and  buzzards ; but  ducks  and  wild  geese,  storks 
and  heron  are  numberless.  Fish  inhabit  ail  seas,  rivers 
and  rivulets  in  the  greatest  abundance,  and  furnish 
one  of  the  main  staples  of  food.  Rice  and  fiah  feed 
more  than  all  other  life-sustaining  materials. 

All  these  things  are,  however,  of  little  value  unless 
we  know  whom  they  serve,  and  what  they  have  pro- 
duced in  the  character  and  development  of  life.  Who 
are  the  Japanese,  and  where  did  they  come  from? 


208 


Their  early  origin  is  mythical,  and  tradition  has 
created  for  them  a history  which  in  no  wise  suits  their 
character,  for  history  should  be  the  exponent  of  the 
life  of  the  people.  It  allies  itself  to  mythology,  is 
stiff  and  unnatural,  for  no  nation  can  see  themselves 
as  others  see  them.  If  they  write  their  own  history, 
they  will  only  do  themselves  injustice.  Their  original 
cosmogony  is  atheistical.  Their  beginnings  were  in 
chaos.  The  world  in  their  conception  was  one  insep- 
arable intermixture.  Heaven  and  earth  were  one, 
and  the  elements  of  creation  pervaded  the  unformed 
deep.  And  creation,  when  it  came,  was  a sublimation 
in  which  the  vapor  formed  the  heavens,  and  the 
residuum  became  the  earth,  from  which  a germ  came 
forth,  and  became  a self-existent  being.  “ Two  other 
beings  of  the  genesis  appeared — after  them  came  four 
pairs  of  beings  (Kami) ; these  were  all  male,  self- be- 
gotten. The  Kami  separated  the  primordial  substance 
into  five  elements,  wood,  fire,  metal,  earth  and  water — 
as  yet  the  division  into  sexes  was  not  made.  The  first 
manifestation  of  the  male  essence  was  Izanagi,  of  the 
female  Izanami,  and  from  these  proceeded  the  human 
race.” 

The  point  of  greatest  interest,  however,  pertains  to 
the  mixtures  from  which  the  present  race  has  come ; 
and  this  can  be  probably  determined  to  a consider- 
able extent  by  the  geographical  portion  extendiag 
toward  the  Asiatic  continent,  which  at  the  southern 
end  of  Corea  and  Siberia  is  near  and  not  difiicult  of 
access.  At  a point  called  Korato,  a little  north  of 
52°  parallel,  not  more  than  five  miles  separate  these 
countries,  the  water  at  low  tide  is  so  shallow  that  it 
can  be  waded,  or  crossed  in  light  canoes.  Indeed, 
after  continuous  winds  from  the  right  direction  the 


209 


journey  can  be  made  into  Asia  dry  shod,  and  during 
four  months  in  the  year  the  strait  is  frozen  over,  so 
that  it  can  be  crossed  in  an  hour. 

There  has  been  much  in  Japan  to  tempt  people  to 
come  out  of  the  cold  into  its  genial  sunshine.  A por- 
tion of  the  country  is  remarkable  in  its  relation  to  the 
ocean  currents,  which  flow  from  the  Indian  ocean  and 
the  Equatorial  seas.  The  stream  flows  always  in  a 
easterly  direction  past  Luzon,  having  Formosa  hs  the 
south  point,  and  sometimes  Kinshin,  reaching  as  far  as 
the  sea  of  Japan.  At  a little  north  of  the  latimde  of 
Tokio,  it  leaves  the  coast  of  Japan,  and  rolhj  its  way 
toward  the  shores  of  America.  By  the  violence  < f the 
monsoons,  continually  sweeping  the  coasts  of  Eastern 
Asia,  the  drifting  from  the  Malay  archipel'«go  of  craft 
and  the  landing  of  men  on  the  shores  of  Kinshin, 
Shikoku  and  the  western  shores  of  Hondo,  were,  no 
doubt,  a constant  occurrence.  Japanese  history  shows 
this  to  have  actually  taken  place,  and  as  occurring  at 
the  present  time. 

All  this  warrants  the  conjecture  that  the  shivering 
hordes  of  the  north  were  tempted  to  the  south  by  its 
more  genial  climate,  by  its  summer  skies,  and  by  its 
easy  mode  of  living  on  account  of  its  almost  spon- 
taneous abundance.  History  furnishes  evidence  of  the 
settlement  of  the  habitation  of  the  main  land  by  Ainos, 
the  descendants  of  whom  occupy  Yezo.  Shikoku  and 
Kinshin  were  peopled,  no  doubt,  by  mixed  races,  sprung 
from  the  adventurers  of  Southern  Asia. , Slowly  push- 
ing the  aborigines  of  Kinshin  and  Shikoku  to  the 
ragged  edges  beyond  fertility,  they  took  possession  of 
the  country  conquered  by  force  and  strategem,  and 
fought  the  Ainos,  setting  up  their  capital  not  far  from 
Kioto.  This  was,  no  doubt,  one  of  those  life  and 


210 


death  struggles  in  which  men  give  up  or  die  slowly; 
or  what  is  more  likely,  a considerable  portion  was 
conquered  by  marriage,  being  a more  pacific  way  of 
conquest  than  war,  beside  yielding  better  race  pro- 
ducts. Thus,  no  doubt,  the  Japanese  came  into  ex- 
istence by  crowding,  fighting,  exterminating,  miscegen- 
ation, &c. 

The  Ainos  still  live  as  a remnant  in  Yezo.  The 
account  of  their  origin  is  low  enough.  It  is  a wonder 
that  the  fanatics  of  evolution  in  search  of  the  missing 
link  between  the  animal  and  man  had  not  found  it 
among  them.  The  Japanese  could  have  told  them 
that  the  name  means  “offspring  of  the  middle” — a 
cross  between  man  and  beast,  which  is  the  first  link  in 
the  union. 

As  to  the  evidence  of  this  origin  of  the  Japanese 
there  is  something  more  than  probability,  as  the  most 
ancient  forms  of  the  language  show  as  great  likeness 
to  the  Aino  as  to  the  modern  Japanese.  A similarity 
can  also  be  traced  in  geographical  names  and  in  relics 
of  the  stone  age,  such  as  flint  arrows  and  spear  heads, 
&c.  There  are  also  two  distinct  types  of  features 
extant — the  Aino,  or  northern,  and  the  Yamato,  or 
southern  type.  The  Aino  is  the  type  of  caricature 
which  appears  in  many  Japanese  paintings.  They  are 
the  most  interesting  to  Americans  of  all  the  inhabi- 
tants as  the  most  probable  ancestors  of  our  American 
Indians.  They  are  heavy  men,  wearing  their  thick, 
black,  straight  hair  down  over  their  necks,  and  all  the 
beard  that  will  grow  on  their  faces  is  the  object  of 
Japanese  caricature.  The  women  tattoo  their  faces. 
The  men  use  bows  and  arrows,  are  great  basket  makers, 
and  in  a surprising  number  of  characteristics  are  like 
the  North  American  Indians.  They  worship  the  spirit 


211 


of  Yo  Shitsune,  a Japanese  general  of  romantic  his- 
tory of  the  twelfth  century,  who  lived  with  them,  when 
in  exile,  and  taught  them  some  of  the  arts  of  civiliza- 
tion. 

Here  we  run  into  the  traditional.  It  may  excite 
the  curiosity  of  our  readers,  if  it  does  not  convince 
them,  that  according  to  some  scholars,  the  ten  lost 
tribes  are  to  be  found  here,  reduced  to  small  propor- 
tions considering  the  time  they  hav  ^ been  wanderers. 
Some  suppose  that  in  these  Ainos  are  to  be  found  the 
beginnings  of  the  fast  disappearing  Indian  tribes  of 
our  own  West.  The  currents  of  the  Gulf  stream  of 
Japan  have  just  been  referred  to  as  arising  in  the 
Equatorial  belt,  and  they  sweep  the  coasts  of  Formosa 
and  Japan,  the  Kunle  and  Aleutian  Islands,  Alaska, 
Oregon,  California,  and  thence  deflect  toward  the 
Sandwich  Islands.  A hulk  or  dismasted  ship  would 
now,  it  is  said,  if  not  beached  or  otherwise  hindered 
from  the  Kuro  Shi  wo  off*  Kinshin,  be  carried  from  J apan 
to  Hawaii.  It  is  said  also  that  within  twenty  years 
Japanese  boats,  caught  in  eastern  typoons,  have  been 
swept  into  the  Kuro  Shiwo,  and  were  borne  before 
the  storm  to  America.  Facts  confirming  this  theory 
are  known  to  fisherman  and  junk  sailors  on  the  coast 
of  Japan.  The  numbers  of  Japanese  and  Aino  boats 
stranded  on  American  shores  have  amounted  to  thou- 
sands, and  thus  the  Japanese  origin  of  the  aboriginal 
Americans  seems  to  be  put  beyond  conjecture  or  mere 
probability. 

From  1872  to  1876  there  were  wrecked  forty-nine 
Japanese  junks  with  authenticated  dates.  Those 
who  desire  to  follo’v  this  more  than  probable  solution 
can  find  valuable  facts  in  detail  in  papers  read  before 
the  San  Francisco  Academy  of  Science  by  Mr.  Charles 


212 


Walcott  Brooks.  There  are,  also,  analogical  argu- 
ments from  the  languages  and  from  striking  physiog- 
nomical likenesses.  The  subject  is  one  of  interest  to 
many,  and  a service  may  be  rendered  to  them  by  the 
above  suggestions. 

The  divinity  ©f  the  office  of  Mikado,  as  held  by 
the  Japanese  through,  as  they  believe,  twenty-five 
centuries,  is  a subject  of  the  intensest  intertst. 
Should  it  prove  true  this  will  be  the  only  historical 
example  of  the  divine  right  of  kings.  A claim  which 
has  cost  some  of  their  kind  their  heads.  The  Japanese 
ruler  claims  the  title  ‘‘King  of  Heaven.”  He  ought 
to  be  a heavenly  character,  but  fortunately  for  him 
moral  character,  according  to  European  ideas,  does 
not  belong  to  him.  But  his  claim  has  not  much  to 
confirm  it  before  the  eighth  century ; all  their  histor- 
ical records  before  this  period  are  barren  of  what  in 
this  age  could  be  stamped  as  facts.  Their  book  of 
traditions  dates  only  from  711  to  712. 

There  is  a claim  set  up  for  two  books  prior  to  this 
time,  extending  from  620  A.  D.,  to  681  A.  D. ; but 
both  are  lost.  These  are  not  worth  the  trouble  of 
burdening  the  memory.  They  may  be  of  some 
service  as  traditional  mythological  and  historical 
curios,  but  nothing  more.  They  contain  a fair  outline 
of  some  of  the  principal  events  between  the  eighth 
and  eleventh  centuries,  and  constitute  as  good  history 
as  exists  from  the  eleventh  to  the  sixteenth  centuries 
— the  times  of  bloody  strifes  and  feudal  wars.  But 
the  whole  is  to  the  modern  student  unsatisfactory,  for 
he  can  only  use  it  inferentially.  Even  p«  fact  so 
modern  as  the  massacre  and  extinction  of  the  Chris- 
tians has  scarcely  any  satisfactory  foundation,  and  is 
about  as  scantily  detailed  as  their  histories  of  the 
sixth  century. 


213 


There  are,  however,  some  characters  and  events,  ' 
which,  while  supported  by  scrappy  history,  may  yet 
carry  to  the  mind  some  probable  truth.  One  of  these 
is  the  conquest  of  Corea  by  the  Empress  Jingu  Kogo; 
another  is  the  introduction  of  Chinese  civilization  and 
Buddhism,  The  notion  that  woman  is  not  equal  to 
man  in  any  of  the  emergencies  of  life  is  a modern 
conceit.  Though  not  so  prominent  as  man,  nor  so  fre- 
quently in  the  desperate  conflicts  for  existence,  she  has 
always  been  equal  to  him,  showing  sometimes  even  a 
greater  heroism,  when  they  came.  All  history  is  jew- 
elled with  noted  examples,  and  Japanese  history  is  il- 
lustrious with  the  achievements  of  brave  women. 
The  women  of  the  early  centuries  are  represented  as 
possessing  intellectual  and  physical  vigor,  filling  the 
highest  oflices  of  religion,  household  and  motherhood 
in  perfection,  ever  the  peer  of  men  in  whatever  they 
undertook. 

The  most  glorious  era  of  conquest  in  Japan  was 
the  achievement  of  woman’s  far-sightedness,  genius, 
heroism  and  exhaustless  courage.  Through  woman 
came  territory,  religion,  arts  and  civilization.  The  his- 
tory of  her  work  reads  like  a chapter  of  romance  from 
and  overwrought  fancy.  The  name  of  the  woman  who 
placed  her  country  and  her  sex  on  the  highest  pinna- 
cle of  both  Japanese  and  Oriental  history  was  Okinaga. 
Tarashihime,  but  she  is  better  known  by  the  title 
Jingu  Kogo,  or  spouse  of  the  Mikado.  She  was  beau- 
tiful, brave,  self-controlled,  devout,  and  withal  re- 
verenced as  the  mother  of  the  god  of  war.  In  193  a 
rebellion  broke  out  at  Kumasso  in  Kiashin,  and  the 
Mikado  went  to  put  down  the  rebels.  His  wife  Jingu 
followed  him  by  ship  to  a port  near  Lake  Biwa,  meet- 
ing her  husband  at  Toya-no-ura  near  Shimonoseki. 


214 


She  was  religiously  inclined  and  while  worshipping 
on  one  of  the  islands  of  the  Inland  Seas,  she  received 
a reyelation  in  these  words,  “ Why  are  you  so  deeply 
concerned  to  conquer  Kumasso  ? It  is  a poor  coun- 
try, not  worth  conquering  by  an  army.  There  is  a 
larger,  richer  country  with  a face  like  a virgin.  It 
dazzles  with  gold,  and  silver  and  treasures  in  abund- 
ance. It  is  to  be  found  in  Shiroke  (Corea).’’  “Wor- 
ship me,”  continued  the  Divinity,  “ and  I will  give 
you  power  to  conquer  it  without  bloodshed.”  The 
Emperor  doubted  his  wife’s  story.  He  was  charged 
with  blasphemy  by  the  revealing  Deity  and  told  that 
he  should  never  enter  the  promised  land,  but  that  a 
child,  unborn  but  already  conceived,  should  conquer 
it.  The  Emperor  was  worsted  by  the  rebels  of  Ku- 
masso and  died  suddenly.  His  Minister,  Takenouchi, 
and  the  heroic  empress  put  down  the  rebellion,  after 
which  she  began  to  long  for  the  conquest  of  the  prom- 
ised land  beyond  the  sea. 

She  obtained  other  signs  from  the  gods  which  con- 
firmed her  faith  and  prepared  to  conquer  Corea.  She 
ordered  her  Generals  to  collect  troops,  and  build 
ships.  When  ready  to  embark  she  said  to  them,  “ the 
safety  or  destruction  of  the  country  depends  on  you. 
I entrust  all  details  to  you ; it  will  be  your  fault  if  they 
are  not  carried  out.  I shall  disguise  myself  as  a man 
and  undertake  this  gallant  expedition,  trusting  to  the 
gods  and  your  faithfulness.  The  glory  will  be  yours, 
if  we  succeed.  If  we  fail,  the  shame  shall  be  mine.” 

Such  an  enterprise  was  a marvel  considering  the 
time  and  country.  She  addressed  her  soldiers,  forbid- 
ding them  to  plunder,  and  adding,  “Neither  despise  a 
few  enemies  nor  fear  many ; give  mercy  to  those  who 
yield,  and  no  quarters  to  the  stubborn.”  The  word 


215 


'of  the  gods  came  to  her  promising  a peaceful  victory ; 
but  as  she  was  about  to  embark,  a disaster  met  her. 
She  was  already  mother  to  the  promised  heir,  but  the 
story  is  that  she  found  a stone,  which  she  carried  in 
her  belt,  which  delayed  the  birth  until  her  victory 
was  gained.  This  undertaking  was  the  most  daring  in 
all  history,  for  the  leaders  had  no  geographical  knowl- 
edge, no  compass,  but  went  out  not  knowing  whither 
they  went.  However,  seas  and  skies  were  propitious, 
and  they  reached  the  desired  haven.  The  Coreans 
came  waving  white  flags  of  submission,  and  took  an 
oath  that  they  would  be  tributary  to  Japan. 

Eighty  ships  were^laden  with  gold  and  silver,  silks 
and  other  wealth,  and  eighty  hostages  of  the  best 
families  were  taken.  The  expedition  soon  returned, 
when  the  son  of  Jingu  was  born,  who  became  the 
heir.  The  mother’s  victories  were  believed  to  have 
been  acheived  through  her  unborn  son.  This  conquest 
took  place,  it  is  believed,  in  A.  D.,  203.  Stripping  it 
of  the  mythical  or  lanciful  it  was  simply  a raid  for 
war  and  conquest.  It  is  to  the  Japanese  a source  of 
pride  that  they  were  successful  in  their  first  invasion, 
and  contributes  to  the  belief  that  they  always  will 
be. 

The  son  of  Jingu,  Ojin,  the  god  of  war,  has  been 
worshipped,  through  centuries  especially  by  the  sol- 
diers, and  to  his  name  and  fame  some  of  the  grandest 
temples  in  Japan  have  been  erected.  Female  martial 
glory  has,  no  doubt,  perished  in  Japan,  as  everywhere 
^Ise.  Something  better  has  been  found  for  the  glory 
of  women.  The  wife  of  the  present  Mikado,  Haruko, 
is  doubtless  doing  greater  things  for  her  country  in 
social  reforms,  in  founding  hospitals,  and  by  special 
interest  in  the  education  of  her  sex.  All  this  will  bring 
to  her  country  imperishable  honor. 


216 


Jingu  is  the  name  synonymous  with  woman’s  high- 
est work  in  the  Japan  of  her  time.  What  changes 
have  been  wrought  since  then  in  woman’s  behalf! 
The  question  is  a wide  one,  but  a few  suggestive 
thoughts  on  the  subject  may  lead  to  its  wider  and 
more  thorough  investigation.  What  is  the  position  of 
woman  in  Japan  now?  The  answer  is,  that  it  is  a 
mixture  of  the  hopeful  and  discouraging.  She  is  on 
a higher  level  in  Japan  than  in  any  other  Asiatic 
country.  She  has  more  respect,  position  and  power 
with  fewer  degrading  disabilit'es  than  in  any  other 
part  of  the  Orient.  However,  th(  re  are  against  her 
forces  that  will  not  remain  quiescent,  and  whose  power 
she  can  never  break.  There  has  been  some  mitigation 
of  the  oppressions,  which  compel  many  to  a life  cf 
shame,  through  the  introduction  of  industries  by 
which  greater  demand  is  created  for  her  labor,  but  all 
these,  as  yet,  are  feeble  and  intermittent.  There  is  no 
steady  flow  toward  her  better  condition.  There  are 
upon  her  religious  shackles  and  the  iron  baiids  of  cus- 
tom, which  work  only  to  her  degradation. 

She  has,  however,  greater  freedom  of  opinion  and 
action  than  anywhere  else  in  the  East : no  caste,  no 
fopt-binding.  Among  the  middle  and  lower  classes  she 
has  almost  as  much  liberty  in  going  about  as  she  has 
in  Europe.  There  is  a class  of  vile  Europeans  and 
Americans,  from  whose  hearts  have  vanished  all  ideas 
of  decency,  whose  mouths  are  as  abominable  as  buz- 
zards, who  flippantly  declare  that  there  is  no  such 
thing* as  female  virtue  in  Japan.  But  this  statement 
in  the  nature  of  the  case  must  be  false,  for  no  nation 
has  ever  been  found,  not  even  in  the  heart  of  the  Dark 
Continent,  according  to  the  testimony  of  Livingstone 
and  Moffat,  in  which  there  is  the  total  absence  of  fe- 
male chastity. 


217 


Purity,  according  to  our  Lord’s  ideal,  which  takes 
cognizance  of  the  thoughts,  exists  not  in  Japan,  and  is 
not  very  abundant  anywhere  else.  Heathenism  has 
shown  no  power  in  this  direction ; here  is  its  greatest 
weakness.  It  dees  not  restrain ; but,  in  most  cases, 
fires  and  then  blows  on  the  igniting  sparks.  The  con- 
ception of  Buddhism  or  Monkish  asceticism  is  that 
woman  exists  as  a standing  temptation  to  men,  and 
must  be  relegated  to  an  inferior  place,  or  left  without 
hope  of  salvation  altogether. 

Perverted  truths  are  as  destructive  as  falsehoods. 
One  of  these  is  the  debasing  slavery  born  out  of 
the  excessive  and  distorted  duty  af  obedience  of  par- 
ents. In  Japan  this  is  the  Juggernaut  destroying 
woman’s  virtue  and  sending  her  to  a life  of  everlasting 
degradation.  There  is  not  a young  girl  in  Japan 
strong  enough  to  resist  a father’s  command  to  her  to 
give  her  life  away  for  his  profit  in  the  house  of  prosti- 
tution. She  believes  that  it  is  her  duty  to  make  the 
sacrifice,  however  much  she  may  loath  it. 

Another  degrading  feature  in  the  very  heart  of 
Japanese  life  is  prostitution  as  a family  institution. 
It  is  worse  than  Polygamy,  because  it  has  less  of  obli- 
gation in  it.  A Japanese  man  has  only  one  legal  wife, 
but  he  may  have  as  many  others  in  this  loose  relation 
as  he  chooses,  and  a considerable  portion  of  the  men 
so  choose.  As  long  as  this  Moloch  continues  to  burn, 
victims  will  be  furnished.  Poverty,  homelessness  and 
false  loyalty  to  parents  will  always  produce  a glut  in 
the  infamous  market. 

Akin  to  this  are  the  easy  legal  conditions  of  divorce. 
The  seven  causes  given  by  Confucius  are:  1.  Diso- 
bedience to  her  parents-in-law.  2.  If  she  be  barren. 
3.  If  she  be  lewd  or  licentious ; she  must  not  be  given 


218 


to  loose  talk  or  wine.  4.  If  she  be  jealous  of  other 
women’s  clothes  or  children,  and  especially  of  her 
husband.  5.  If  she  have  a loathsome  or  contagious 
disease.  6.  If  she  steal.  7.  If  she  talk  too  much. 
The  seventh  affords  the  husbands  best  chance,  for  here= 
he  can  be  both  j udge  and  prosecutor. 

All  this  shows  the  importance  of  Christian- 
education  and,  we  hope,  will  stimulate  to  the 
highest  efforts  on  the  part  of  Christians  now  in  this 
harvest  time  in  the  mission  field.  In  no  spot  on  the 
earth  can  Christian  women  work  such  immediate 
and  far-reaching  results  in  the  saving  their  sex  from 
intolerable  degradation  and  in  strengthening  a sen- 
timent, already  started,  for  the  necessity  of  an 
education  for  Japanese  wives  in  Christian  schools  in 
the  matter  of  knowledge,  literature  and  manners.  The 
fields  are  whitening  for  the  harvest,  and  the  demand 
is,  “ send  forth  more  laborers.”  The  men  are  becoming 
educated ; they  are  feverish  in  their  desire  to  master 
European  civilization  and  to  build  up  their  manhood 
on  modern  ideas.  Shall  these  educated  men  be  held  in 
bondage  by  ignorant  wives,  without  religion^  and,  often,, 
without  soul  inspiring  morals  ? 

Already,  the  educated  men  of  Japan  are  demanding 
educated  wives,  and  before  the  recent  revulsion,  which 
is  probably  only  temporary,  the  mission  schools  could 
not  furnish  them  as  fast  as  demanded.  Married  men,, 
who  have  had  the  advantages  of  modern  education, 
are  bringing  their  wives  to  our  mission  female 
seminaries,  begging  for  places  for  them  aod  paying 
all  expenses,  glad  if  they  can  only  get  them  admitted, 
and  what  is  more,  to  their  honor  the  Japanese  women 
show  an  invincible  determination  to  be  the  peers  of 
their  husbands  by  their  great  diligence  and  progress 
in  their  studies. 


219 


It  is  inspiring  to  see  a nj other  with  three  or  four 
children  sitting  down  to  her  daily  ta>k,  attending  to 
her  maternal  cares  and  still  keeping  her  place  with 
the  best  in  her  classes.  There  are  few  in  America 
or  England  who  possess  the  will,  and  evince  the 
absorption  of  mind  and  the  persistent  purpose  to  do 
all  this.  Such  fruits  of  Christian  efforts  hang  in  rich 
clusters  all  over  Japan.  -The  mission  schools  have 
been  crowded,  and  hundreds  turned  away  for  want 
of  room.  It  is  one  of  the  most  distressing  thoughts 
in  connection  with  Christian  work  in  Japan  that 
those,  who  are  begging  to  be  taught,  cannot  be  re- 
ceived  because  of  the  inadequacy  of  the  teaching 
force  and  accomodations  for  shelter. 

The  following  facts  given  in  connection  with  the 
school  of  Mrs.  True,  in  Tokio,  will  enforce  and  explain 
our  statements.  A young  Japanese  girl,  of  good 
family,  living  miles  away  from  Tokio,  heard  that 
there  was  an  institution  in  this  city  for  the  education 
of  young  women  in  Christian  culture,  and  was  almost 
beside  herself  to  get  there.  Her  father  desired  that 
her  wish  might  be  gratified,  but  had  not  the  means 
to  send  her.  She  finally  determined  to  walk  to  Tokio, 
three  hundred  miles,  to  see  if  the  institution  could  not 
help  her.  To  protect  herself  from  dishonor  by  the 
way  she  dressed  herself  in  male  attire,  and  walked  all 
these  weary  miles  and  presented  herself,  explaining 
why  she  came  in  this  garb.  There  was  no  place  for 
her ; every  place  was  filled,  and  when  she  was  so  in- 
formed, she  was  in  an  agony  of  distress.  At  last  Mrs. 
True,  considering  her  sacrifices  and  disappointment, 
said  : — “ There  is  one  place ; it  is  the  work  of  a servant, 
and  you  have  never  been  used  to  this.  It  is  to  wash 
the  table-cloths  and  napkins.”  To  her  amazement  the 


220 


young  girl  accepted.  She  had  never  washed  a gar- 
ment in  her  life,  but  if  they  would  show  her  how 
to  do  it,  she  would  undertake  it.  This  she  has  done, 
rising  before  daylight  to  get  the  washing  over,  and  to 
keep  up  to  the  average  of  her  class  in  her  studies. 

Can  any  thing  more  be  needed  to  convince  the 
world  what  Japanese  women  are,  and  what  they  can 
do,  and  what  they  will  be,  if  the  Christian  world  will 
only  give  a pittance  of  its  abundance  to  help  them  out 
of  the  long  wearisome  and  degrading  servitude  that 
has  environed  them  through  the  centuries.  The  new 
civilization  will  be  rootless  until  Japan  is  planted 
with  gospel  truth  and  her  home  life  properly  culti- 
vated. The  beginnings  have  been  auspiciously  made 
by  our  own  countrymen  and  most  gratifying  success 
bas  crowned  their  limited  efforts ; but  what  is  this 
among  so  many?  These  faithful  men  and  women  are 
imparting  ideas,  and  making  them  practical  by  their 
own  example  in  their  well  ordered  households.  They 
are  giving  a purer  code  of  morals  and  a spiritual 
power,  which  regenerates  before  it  confers  culture,  of 
which  Buddhism  never  knew,  and  before  which  the 
highest  aspirations  of  Shintoism  fall  brokenly  to  the 
dust. 

Empress  Jingu’s  victory  O’^er  Corea  was  more  to 
the  Japanese  than  the  accession  of  territory  and 
wealth  without  the  expenditure  of  blood  or  treasure. 
It  was  the  opening  of  the  highway  over  which  came 
the  religion,  the  philosophy  and  the  political  ideas 
which  have  ruled  for  good  or  ill  ever  since.  All  this 
must  be  accredited  as  a victory  to  woman.  Consider- 
ing the  nine  Empresses  of  Japan,  and  the  above  first 
foreign  triumph  in  her  history,  and  the  blessings  flow- 
ing from  this  source  for  centuries,  woman’s  share  in 


221 


the  glory  of  Japanese  progress  is  fully  equal,  if  not 
fluperior,  to  that  of  the  other  sex. 

Before  this,  religion  consisted  of  the  crudest 
notions,  none  of  which  took  hold  at  any  point  on 
moral  character.  It  was  at  this  time  the  creature  of 
a coarse  imagination ; fear  was  its  vitality.  It  had 
no  ladder,  reaching  from  earth  to  heaven,  over  which 
its  aspirations  could  climb.  It  had  to  receive  from 
foreign  shores  a religion  which  had  conquered  for 
itself  the  devotion  of  a large  part  of  Asia.  In  its 
time  and  place  it  was  an  aggressive,  resistless  force. 
Buddhism  was  to  bring  religious  unity  and  principle 
to  fortify  the  national  growth,  and  motives  to  con- 
trol their  better  natures,  and  to  act  as  an  helm  to  all 
her  national  forces.  It  was  a theology  which'  could 
be  systematized  and  grasped,  and  which  could  em- 
brace in  its  strength  the  whole  nature  of  the  indi- 
vidual man,  and  lead  both  the  individual  and  the 
nation  forward. 

The  philosophy  of  Confucianism,  and  its  morals  as 
well,  formed  the  basis  of  all  education  among  Japan- 
ese statesmen.  It  modified  Shintoism;  it  gave  a 
higher  significance  to  political  duties ; it  gave  better 
ideas  of  government;  it  compacted  the*  nation  and 
impressed  upon  it  personal  responsibilities,  honor, 
family  relationships,  and  government.  All  this,  and 
vastly  more,  Japan  received  through  her  conquest  of 
Corea.  In  other  words,  she  first  received  a religion 
through  Corea  from  China,  and  now,  when  this  has 
worn  out,  she  receives  another,  and  better,  faith  from 
America,  the  country  which  she  probably  first  peo- 
pled. 

The  peaceful  victory  of  Jingu  emptied  Corea  into 
the  lap  of  Japan.  Multitudes  of  artisans  came ; horses 


ooo 


were  sent  over  in  491 ; tailors  in  large  numbers  ap- 
peared in  493 ; architects  and  learned  men  in  512. 
In  552  a company  of  doctors,  divines,  astronomers 
and  mathematicians  arrived  at  the  Japanese  court, 
and  with  them  the  Buddhist  missionaries,  by  whom 
came  continental  civilization. 

Three  great  waves  from  the  West  and  East  have 
swept  over  Japan;  with  each  religion  and  civilization 
have  come  hand  in  hand.  In  the  sixth  century  the 
philosophy,  ethics,  religion  and  political  ideas  of  China 
were  received.  Confucianism  and  Buddhism  migrated 
from  China  through  Corea.  In  the  fifteenth  century 
a tidal  wave  struck  her  from  Western  Europe.  In 
the  nineteenth  century  another  wave  struck  her  from 
America,  which  is  now  stirring  her  head  and  heart, 
subverting  her  old  ideas  and  institutions,  revealing  to 
her  true  life  and  inspiring  her  to  a lofty  place  in  the 
onward  march  of  the  nations. 


HE  religion  of  Buddha  can  never  fail  to  interest 


those  who  have  any  concern  with  the  philoso- 
phy of  religion.  It  is  six  centuries  older  than  Chris- 
tianity and  is  one  of  its  rivals  in  India,  Ceylon,  China 
and  Japan.  It  is  professed  by  nearly  one-third  of 
the  race,  and  has  a literature  more  extensive  than  all 
other  heathen  religions.  We  shall  confine  our  con- 
sideration of  it  to  its  introduction,  progress  and  pres- 
ent status  in  this  singular  country.  It  has  attempted 
to  produce  a purely  Atheistic  Humanitarianism,  a 
philosophy  merging  constantly  into  ethics.  It  has  a 


CHAPTER  XVII. 


JAPANESE  BUDDHISM. 


223 


code  of  morals  superior  to  any  thing  ever  conceived 
by  what  is  now  known  as  the  heathen  mind ; and  em* 
braces  Atheism,  Metempsychosis  and  hostility  to  all 
caste  distinctions.  It  could  not  have  originated  in 
any  other  country  except  India,  the  most  caste-ridden 
land  on  earth,  both  in  the  secular  and  spiritual  do- 
*main.  Its  formal  dogmas  were  that  all  men  are  equal, 
all  are  sinful,  all  are  miserable,  and  all  are  capable  of 
elevation  through  knowledge.  All  had  lived  in  a pre- 
vious state,  and  the  sorrows  of  this  life  were  the  result 
of  sins  committed  in  a previous  existence;  each  soul 
has  gone  through  the  circle  of  all  being  just  as  feathers 
are  whirled  in  a tornado,  or  sticks  in  a whirlpool. 

There  is  nothing  realistic  in  its  philosophy ; nothing 
is  real  and  life  is  a magnificent  delusion.  After  death 
the  soul  starts  again  bobbing  about  through  space 
or  by  universal  extension  through  stages  of  life,  in- 
ferior and  superior,  until  it  reaches  Nirvana,  which  is 
an  unconscious  absorption  in  Buddha.  Its  moving 
aspiration  is  toward  the  extinction  of  personal  con- 
sciousness or  toward  blissful  annihilation.  The  ethical 
system  of  Buddhism  is  higher  than  its  metaphysics. 
Its  dictates  of  morality  are  reasonable  and  according 
to  the  eternal  fitness  in  moral  relations.  Nearly  all 
the  prohibitions  of  the  Ten  Commandments  are  to  be 
found,  with  others  added,  such  as  those  against  murder, 
stealing,  adultery,  lying,  drunkenness,  hypocrisy, 
anger,  pride,  suspicion,  greediness,  gossipping,  cruelty 
to  animals,  &c.  Also,  the  positive  virtues  of  forgive- 
ness of  enemies  and  insults,  and  rendering  good  for 
evil  are  enjoined. 

This  was  the  ideal  religion  of  Buddha  when,  driven 
out  of  India,  it  was  to  plant  itself  in  Burmah,  Siam, 
China,  Thibet,  Manchuria,  Eastern  Siberia,  and  after 


224 


twelve  centuries  in  J apan.  Shintoism,  previously,  was 
all  that  had  occupied  the  speculative  and  superstitious 
mind  of  the  Japanese.  It  had  died  down  to  the  root, 
and  was  at  best  a pale  and  shadowy  cult,  a system  of 
sacrifice  to  the  departed  spirits  of  heroes  and  ancestors. 
It  was  hero-worship,  a mild  form  of  which  in  modern 
times  has  beamed  out  in  the  wonderfiil  genius  of 
Thomas  Carlyle. 

Its  central  political  idea  was  to  declare  and  adore 
the  divinity  of  the  Mikado,  and  to  serve  him  implicitly. 
Every  thing  was  ready  for  change,  for  relief,  for 
the  rolling  of  the  stone  of  ages  from  off  the  human 
intellect.  The  spirit  of  inquiry  was  not  dead,  only  im- 
prisoned ; men  then  as  now  longed  to  know  whither, 
why,  when,  and  wherefore.  Buddhism  had  some- 
thing positive  to  offer.  Uncertainty  is  the  hell  of 
speculative  existence.  No  doubt  somebody  will  ask 
how 'could  Buddhism,  with  its  ultimate  extinction  of 
personality  and  consciousness,  meet  these  urgent  wants. 
It  was  inconceivably  superior  to  any  thing  they  had. 
Everlasting  drudgery  would  welcome  everlasting  sleep; 
as  one  in  more  modern  times  sai  \ “ My  highest  desire 
for  jieaven  is  to  get  where  I shall  never  again  be 
Jired.” 

The  people,  at  the  time  of  the  advent  of  Buddhism, 
knew  little  else  but  of  the  terrific  action  of  destructive 
forces,  such  as  malignant  diseases  without  cure  or 
mitigation,  evil  spirits  always  after  them,  earthquakes 
and  tornadoes.  Accordingly  to  them  eternal  life 
meant  eternal  torment.  The  power  of  Buddhism  was 
in  its  dogmatism ; a religion  without  it  is  powerless. 

Believe  in  the  true  doctrine,  and  live  the  true  be- 
liever’s life,  sr^ys  the  Bonze,  and  you  will  be  born 
again  into  higher  and  higher  states  of  existence,  into 


J 


225 


a heaven  and  a higher  heaven  until,  from  paradise, 
you  rise  to  the  restful  nonentity  of  Nirvana.  Reject 
these  truths,  and  you  will  be  born  innumerable  times, 
suffer  at  each  birth  more  and  me  re  of  torture ; die  or 
be  killed  millions  of  times ; sink  into  lower  and  lower 
hells  down  a plane  at  the  end  of  which,  in  uncountable 
cycles,  you  may  turn  slowly  upward  again.*’  This  re- 
ligious system  had  for  the  time  of  its  appearance  the 
highest  intellectuality  and  the  only  philosophy  that 
was  ever  formulated  into  any  thing  like  a system. 
Besides,  the  doctrine  of  Nirvana  was  greatly  modified 
and  diversified  in  the  Japanese  system.  Some  be- 
lieved it  to  be  utter  annihilation ; others  a kind  of 
spiritual  comatoseness;  others  held  that  the  final 
absorption  was  compatible  with  perpetuated  person- 
ality and  consciousness. 

Buddhism  was  scarcely  lifted  into  power  when 
divisions  began,  as  will  always  be  the  case  in  any  re- 
ligious system  which  has  in  it  the  elements  of  phil- 
osophical speculaTon.  Its  most  illustrious  teacher 
was  Kabo,  a famous  scholar,  the  compiler  of  the 
Japanese  alphabet  of  forty-seven  characters,  which 
may  by  pointing  be  increased  to  seventy.  He  was 
born  A.  D.  774.  He  founded  the  Shin  Yan  (True 
Words)  sect. 

The  thirteenth  century  was  the  golden  age  of  Japan- 
ese Buddhism.  The  following  sects,  representing  one 
and  another  of  the  then  progressive  forms  of  thought, 
still  exist  in  Kiota  and  have  long  flourished  through- 
out Japan:  The  Zen  (Contemplationists),  the  lodo 
(Heavenly  Road),  the  Slun  (the  New).  The  Nichiren 
sect  of  Buddhists,  for  six  centuries,  was  the  wealthiest, 
most  influential,  mrist  proselyting,  most  bitter  and  con- 
tentious, the  most  bigoted,  intolerant,  arrogant  and  per- 


226 


secuting.  They  were  ready  to  suffer,  but  more  ready 
to  make  others  do  it.  They  were  as  controversial  as 
the  original  Campbellites  of  Kentucky,  whose  motto 
was  said  to  be  “ Glory  to  God ! I am  ready  for  fight  I” 
They  had  the  venom  of  a blind  adder  in  dog  days  • 
when  they  were  beaten,  they  would  hiss  in  impotent 
rage.  They  had  the  most  prayer-books,  most  drums, 
most  instruments  of  torture,  including  their  tongues. 
They  got  up  their  revivals  after  the  fashion  of  the 
Salvation  Army.  They  had  most  pilgrims,  most  eccle- 
siastical machinery,  charms,  spells,  amulets.  Their 
priests  were  the  reprobatory  followers  of  Buddhism, 
and  e^ery  other  sect  was  consigned  to  perdition  as 
often  as  they  felt  like  it. 

Even  now  their  revival  meetings  confound  the  im- 
agination and  defy  the  power  of  expression.  Prayers 
and  drums  accompany  the  shouting  of  devotees,  who 
often  froth  at  the  mouth,  and  go  into  paroxysms  which 
sometimes  end  in  madness.  They  are  a repetition  of 
the  scenes  of  Carmel,  when  Elijah  was  goading  the 
Baalites  with  his  desperate  sarcasm.  Of  this  sect  was 
Kato  Keyomasa,  the  persecutor  of  the  R >man  Catho- 
lics in  the  sixteenth  century.  Nichiren  means  Sun- 
otus,  called  this  by  his  mother,  who  dreamed  that  the 
sun  had  entered  her  body  during  his  conception,  and 
this  vagary  is  repeated  about  multitudes  of  other 
great  men,  usually  after  their  death. 

The  ho’y  Bonze  never  learned  to  keep  silence  or  to 
speak  wisely,  so  he  was  expatriated,  and  assailed  afcer 
his  own  style  of  abuse  by  other  sects  until  he  died 
in  Tregami,  a little  to  the  northwest  of  the  Kawasaki 
Railroad,  between  Yokohama  and  Tokio.  He  was 
the  greatest  polemical  theologian  and  the  most  aggres- 
sive propagandist  Buddhism  ever  had  in  Japan.  The 


227 


vitality  of  heathenism  in  Japan  is  in  this  sect;  it  is 
being  roused  to  fighting  ardor,  and  if  martyr  blood 
is  shed  in  the  introduction  and  progress  of  Chris- 
tianity, it  will  come  from  reorganized  and  regenerated 
Buddhism. 

Its  adherents  are  more  aggressive  now,  and  becom- 
ing intolerant.  It  is  deeply  rooted  in  the  minds  of 
the  people,  and  though  it  is  not  combative  when  undis- 
turbed, friction  with  the  truth  is  bringing  it  again  into 
determined  opposition.  There  will  certainly  be  many 
ebbs  before  Christianity  reaches  a peaceful  tide-mark. 
These  Nichirenes  are  Japanese  Jesuits,  who  are  the 
same  the  world  over.  Christianity  will  not  prevail 
without  blood;  its  life  must  be  nurtured  out  of  its 
own  wounds. 

There  is  a religious  custom  long  connected  with  the 
history  of  this  sect,  interesting  even  as  a fable.  In 
the  country  are  seen  evidences  of  what  is  called  “the 
flowing  invocation.”  It  has  been  described  as  fol- 
lows:— “A  piece  of  colored  cloth  is  suspended  by 
its  four  corners  to  stakes  in  the  ground  by  the 
margin  of  a brook  or  river,  which  may  flow  by  the 
houses  of  the  higher  classes.  Behind  it  rises  a board 
with  several  notches  near  the  top,  upon  which  is  a 
brief  inscription.  Resting  on  the  cloth  by  the  side 
of  the  stream  is  a wooden  dipper ; on  the  corners  of 
the  cloth  supported  by  stakes  may  be  garlands  of 
flowers.  The  whole  is  a symbolical  representation  of 
death.  The  significant  Sanscrit  letters  suggest  the  end 
of  life.  The  flowers  there,  as  with  us,  are  dedicated 
to  death.  They  are,  also,  tributes  of  love,  tokens  of 
sorrowful  memories  of  the  loving  set  in  the  sockets  of 
the  monuments  in  their  graveyard.  On  the  cloth  is 
written  the  name  given  to  persons  after  death,  and 


223 


the  prayer  which  Nichiren  substituted  for  the  older 
and  more  meaningless  one ; ‘ Glory  to  the  Sahah  on 
bringing  scripture.*  This  is  called  ‘Mother’s  Me- 
morial.’ The  passer-by  pauses  at  this  strange  device, 
for  he  understands  it  well;  he  devoutly  prays  and 
counts  the  beads  of  his  rosary.  After  this  is  done,  he 
reverently  lifts  a cupful  of  water  and  pours  it  upon 
the  cloth  and  waits  devoutly  until  it  has  gone  through 
between  the  threads.  ” 

What  is  the  meaning  of  this  bit  of  strange  symboli- 
cal devotion?  It  is  but  another  testimony  to  the  uni- 
versal idea  in  the  mind  of  humanity  of  the  possible 
vicariousness  of  suffering.  It  is  an  act  of  devotion 
trying  to  shorten  a mother’s  woe,  as  she  suffers  the 
pains  and  pangs  of  the  guilty  in  the  world  into  which 
she  passed  at  death.  It  is  a symbolical  prayer  to  all 
who  know  of  the  pangs  of  death  in  child-bearing,  to 
help  the  poor  mother  in  the  world  of  woe  to  the  ex- 
tent of  a cup  of  water.  How  this  avails  must  be 
explained.  The  mother  who  was  in  childbirth,  accord- 
ing to  Buddhist  teaching,  suffers  such  a death  on 
account  of  some  terrible  sin  in  bygone  centuries,  or 
cycles  it  may  be.  This  is  certain  frotn  the  character 
of  her  punishment,  which  is,  she  must  dwell  in  the 
darkness  of  hell,  wallowing  in  a lake  of  blood,  and 
must  continue  there  until  the  water,  poured  by  the 
living,  who  are  pitiful  and  prayerful,  in  her  behalf, 
wears  the  warp  and  woof  of  the  cloth  away  by  the 
brook  or  stream.  When  this  cloth  is  so  worn  that  it 
furnishes  no  obstruction  to  the  water,  the  freed  spirit 
of  the  mother  is  purged  of  her  sin  and  rises  to  a 
resurrection  among  those,  served  like  herself,  in  a 
higher  circle  forever  and  ever.  Men  and  women  alike 
feel  it  a call  from  the  world  of  doom,  especially  the 


'229 


women  who  have  passed  through  the  pains  and  pangs 
of  parturition,  and  who  feel  grateful  for  their  safe 
deliverance  from  the  gates  of  death.  But  trickery 
and  priestcraft  are  synonymous.  Nothing  in  their 
religion  is  too  sacred  for  the  priests  to  traffic  in.  The 
rich  can  buy  cloths  scraped  in  the  middle,  so  that 
the  water  will  at  once  go  through,  or,  at  least,  in  a 
few  days.  The  poor  have  to  buy  strong  cloth,  but 
even  for  them  there  are  blessed  compensations.  It 
the  limit  of  the  purgatorial  penance  of  their  wives 
depends  on  the  thickness  of  the  warp  and  woof,  he 
secures  for  her  all  the  more  vicarious  helpfulness  and 
sympathy  from  those  of  his  own  kind,  who  do  not  de- 
sire  to  shorten  their  work  of  loving  devotion  and 
mercy.  Heart -wealth  is  found  in  huts.  Bedizzened 
selfishness  adorns  too  often  the  mansions  of  the  rich. 

Buddhism  has  undergone  violent  changes,  usually 
reactionary  in  their  character.  One  of  them  corres- 
ponds to  the  reformation  of  Christianity  in  Europe  in 
the  sixteenth  century.  It  was  a Protestant  revolu- 
tion. Shinran  was  the  great  leader,  A.  D.  1262.  He 
was  a pupil  of  Honen,  who  was  of  noble  descent.  He 
was  honorably  married  to  a lady  of  high  rank,  and 
engrafted  the  sane  ity  of  marriage  as  an  article  in  hi» 
reformed  creed.  He  declared  that  celibacy  was  an 
invention  of  the  priests.  He  condemned  penance,  amu- 
lets, isolation,  fastings,  pilgrimages,  chains,  nunneries 
and  monasteries  as  foreign  to  pure  Buddhism.  His 
positive  teachings  were  the  duty  and  helpfulness  of 
devout  prayer,  purity  and  earnestness  of  life,  and 
trust  in  Buddha  himself  as'  the  only  worker  of  perfect 
righteousness.  His  contest  was  similar  to  that  made 
by  Luther  against  the  Roman  Catholics.  The  ques- 
tion was  j ustification  by  works  or  faith.  He  declared 


230 


faith  in  Buddha  alone  would  save.  The  Scriptures  of 
this  reformation  were  translated  into  the  popular 
tongue  instead  of  Sanscrit  and  Chinese. 

The  old  Buddhists  build  their  temples  on  hills  and 
in  solitary  places,  but  the  Shin-Shinists  build  them 
in  the  heart  of  cities,  convenient  in  public  places  to 
the  multitudes,  and  labor  with  worthy  zeal  to  induce 
the  people  to  come  into  them.  Their  temples  are  the 
most  accessible  and  imposing  to  the  traveller.  Each 
one  is  magnificent.  The  altars  are  not  inferior  to 
those  of  the  best  among  Roman  Catholics  in  Italy. 
The  priests  marry  and  raise  families,  and  their  sons 
succeed  to  the  curacies.  In  default  of  male  issue,  the 
husband  of  the  daughter  of  a priest  takes  the  place  of 
the  father-in-law. 

The  followers  of  Shinran  have  always  had  great 
influence  with  the  government  and  the  influential  of 
the  people  both  for  good  and  evil.  Their  system  is 
always  better  than  themselves.  They  have  been  the 
first  to  imitate  the  policies  of  Christianity,  and,  by 
modifications  to  suit  changed  conditions,  to  resist  it. 
They  have  organized  theological  schools,  so  that  their 
young  men  may  be  able  to  resist  the  evils  of  corrupt 
Buddhism,  Shintoism  or  Christianity ; but  they  have 
BO  far  introduced  Christian  methods,  that  they  are 
reproached  for  being  Christians,  while  perhaps  in  heart 
they  are  farthest  from  Christianity.  Their  Protestant- 
ism consists  merely  in  an  efibrt  to  be  free  from  govern- 
mental control,  reactionism  and  Shintoism. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 


THE  INTRODUCTION  OF  CHRISTIANITY  IN  JAPAN. 
HRISTIANITY,  like  Simon,  the  Cyrenian, 


has  always  been  obliged  to  carry  its  cross. 
If  it  had  been  merely  a load  of  wood,  as  in  his  case, 
Christianity  would  have  prospered ; but  it  has  been 
often  obliged  to  carry  Satan  and  his  luggage,  which 
has  ever  been  to  its  humiliation  and  disaster.  Thus 
fettered  it  entered  Japan.  Mendez  Pinto,  a Portu- 
guese adventurer,  was  the  first  European  to  put  his 
feet  upon  its  soil  about  1542.  This  led  to  the  advent 
of  Romanism.  Pinto  returned  full  of  things  marvel- 
lous. So  successful  was  he  in  getting  his  stories  into 
circulation  that  the  Portuguese  called  him  Pinto,  the 
Mendacious.  Whether  Major  Pinto,  who  has  re- 
cently raised  the  small  tempest  between  Portugal  and 
England,  is  a lenial  descendant  or  not,  it  is  not  neces- 
sary to  opine;  but  we  note  the  fact  that  events  repeat 
themselves  and  the  behavior  of  the  two  adventurers 
is  much  alike. 

Vagabond  foreigners  brought  Christianity,  like  a 
pack-horse  laden  with  all  real  and  imaginable  devil- 
tries— priestcraft,  political  intrigue,  persecution,  the 
inquisition,  the  slave  trade,  concession  to  a vile  carica- 
ture of  Christianity  by  the  sword,  sedition,  rebellion 
and  civil  war.  All  this,  and  more,  was  introduced  at 
the  cost  of  the  blood  of  sixty  thousand  massacred 
Japanese. 

Pinto  and  his  soul-saving  crowd  were  armed  with 
arquebuses,  which  at  first  delighted  the  people,  as  does 
any  thing  new  which  they  think  they  can  turn  to 


231 


232 


selfish  account.  Pinto  was  a big  man  while  the 
Japanese  were  stealing  his  thunder.  Soon  the  natives 
were  manufacturing  guns  and  powder,  the  secrets  of 
which  they  had  secured  by  reward  or  cunning.  So 
the  Cross  of  Christ  was  brought  by  unprincipled 
foreigners  and  fire-arms  and  cruelties — an  infernal 
trinity  which  lives  in  the  memory  of  the  natives  in 
many  places,  a horrible  tradition  among,  but  synonym- 
ous with  the  Christian  name.  Then,  as  ever  since  with 
the  Portuguese,  where  it  was  possible  to  unite  the 
cross  and  sword,  the  weak  were  first  trodden  by 
violence  and  made  religious  by  spoil ation.  Hundreds 
of  Portuguese  were  attracted  by  Pinto’s  gains.  Ships 
returned  loaded  with  pirated  trophies  of  the  cross. 

The  Japanese  at  first  thought  it  a great  thing,  and 
the  Daimios  vied  with  each  other  in  enriching  the 
foreigners,  who  were  giving  them  religion  for  their 
earthly  effects.  Their  main  idea,  however,  was  to  get 
improved  weapons  to  carry  on  bloody  conquests  at 
home,  or  to  regain  lost  or  acquire  new  supremacy. 
The  country  swarmed  with  Portuguese  priests — the 
gleaners  after  their  avaricious  masters.  The  first 
convert  was  a murderer,  who,  learning  to  read  and 
write  Portuguese  and  the  necessary  doctrines  of  the 
Roman  Church  to  be  a propagandist,  became  Xavier’s 
interpreter.  The  character  cf  the  natives  at  that 
time  appears  in  a passage  recorded  by  the  great  mis- 
sionary : — “ The  pe'^ple  did  not  immediately  assent  to 
what  was  said  to  them,  but  would  investigate  what  I 
might  afldrm  concerning  religion.  They  asked 
multitudes  of  questions,  upon  the  answers  of  which 
they  pondered.  But  their  chief  test  was  in  seeing 
how  my  conduct  tallied  with  my  words.” 

Xavier’s  mission  was  not  a success;  he  was  too 


233 


good  for  his  Portuguese  forerunners.  He  could  not 
learn  the  language ; he  had  no  means  of  showing  the 
Daimios  how  his  presence  and  performances  could 
enrich  them.  He  went  to  Kioto,  and  assumed  the 
garb  and  ways  of  a mendicant ; but  this  made  the 
people  despise  him,  and  as  he  had  no  present  of 
sufficient  value  to  reach  the  Shogans,  whose  rule  was 
supreme  at  that  time,  he  left  the  country  in 
disgust.  But  he  had  inspired  others  to  carry  on  the 
work,  and  within  five  years  after  he  left  Kioto, 
seven  churches  and  multitudes  of  smaller  Christian 
communities  dotted  the  south-west. 

In  1581  there  were  two  hundred  churches,  while 
150,000  native  Christian  Daimios  and  people  of  stand- 
ing, where  Xavier  first  began  his  work  by  the  use  of 
costly  gifts  and  diplomacy,  were  in  favor  of  Chris- 
tianity. In  1583  an  embassy  of  four  young  noblemen 
was  dispatched  by  the  Christian  Daimios  of  Kiushin 
to  the  Pope  to  declare  themselves  vassals  to  the  Holy 
See.  Eight  years  after  they  kissed  the  Pope’s  toe,  and 
had  a grand  audience  with  Philip,  of  Spain,  the  blood- 
letting missionary  of  the  Papacy  in  Europe.  It  is 
hardly  necessary  to  say  that  they  returned  with  those 
pests  of  the  world — the  Jesuits  and  mendicant  friars. 
As  the  result,  according  to  Roman  Catholic  records, 
the  converts  in  Japan  numbered  600,000.  The 
Japanese  estimate  the  Romanists  and  their  adherents 
at  2,000,000.  Nor  was  their  work  confined  to  any  one 
class,  but  had  many  representatives  even  among 
women  and  at  the  court.  Churches,  monasteries  and 
schools  were  abundant.  There  were  Fathers  every- 
where, and  crosses  rivalled  Buddhist  shrines  in  num- 
ber and  elegance.  Japan  was  in  a condition  favora- 
ble for  this  wonderful  change.  She  was  worn  out  by 


234 


intestine  quarrels ; the  people  were  poor  and  hopeless. 
The  native  religions,  Shintoism  and  Buddhism,  were 
without  comfort,  nay,  without  even  pity.  Shinto  was 
only  a shadow  of  ancestors  in  their  graveyards; 
Buddhism  had  dried  up.  But  Roman  propagandism 
was  without  the  juice  of  life  or  sympathy,  as  dead  as 
the  cut  flowers  laid  on  the  faces  of  corpses.  It  had 
degenerated  into  a trade  in  prayers  and  trinkets,  a 
system  of  prayers  and  masses  paid  for  to  the  priests ; 
but  as  might  have  been  expected,  and  always  is 
the  case,  material  gorgeousness  increased  as  spirit- 
uality departed.  Never  were  there  such  magnificent 
vestments,  such  clouds  of  incense,  such  glowing  lights, 
such  imposing  processions.  There  was  never  so  much 
religious  razzle  dazzle”  while  indulgences  were  sold^ 
and  on  holidays  those  monuments  of  religious  and 
national  deterioration  were  so  abundant  that  honest 
industry  was  paralyzed. 

The  Japanese  common  people  are  very  imaginative 
and  sensational.  They  are  the  French  of  the  Orient, 
worshippers  of  the  beautiful,  according  to  their  notions. 
This  fact  paved  the  way  for  the  Roman  priest  with  his 
crucifixes,  rosaries,  rich  vestments  and  impressive  cere- 
monies; just  enough  different  from  the  flummeries  of 
Buddhism  to  give  pleasant  variety  to  the  versatile 
tastes  of  the  Japanese.  The  picture  and  crucifix 
business  became  a great  industry ; they  were  bought 
and  sold  rapidly,  furnishing  revenue  to  Rome  and 
profit  to  the  tradesman.  The  Jpriests  preached  the 
doctrine  of  an  immediate  entrance  into  paradise  after- 
death  to  all  believers,  and  were  not  particular  to 
spiritualize  paradise;  so  any  kind  that  suited  the 
seeker  would  do.  This  intoxicated  the  multitude, 
who  had  known  nothing  of  the  future  from  Sbintoism, 


235 


and  had  heard  only  the  discouraging  ideas  of  going 
on  forever  through  brutes^  snakes,  hogs  and  dogs  until 
they  might  mount  up  into  humanity,  and  through 
this,  at  last  and  best  of  all,  into  practical  annihilation. 
Calvary  with  its  bloody  scenes  and  more  glorious  re- 
prisals was  a new  story — a brighter  hope,  even  if  it 
were  no  more,  as  dark  skies  lighted  by  dying  rockets 
are  better  than  no  light  at  all. 

The  transition  was  easy  and  rapid  from  Buddhism 
to  Romanism.  They  are  so  near  alike  in  so  many 
aspects  that  few  alterations  in  the  machinery  and 
millinery  were  necessary.  The  idols  of  Buddha  were 
easily  chiseled  into  the  image  of  Christ  and  the 
Virgin,  and  as  the  people  had  never  seen  either,  they 
were  just  as  good  as  those  altered  from  heathen 
divinities  at  Rome.  The  Buddhist  saints  were 
changed  by  a little  paint  and  trimming  into  the 
twelve  apostles.  The  iorii,  a Buddhist  symbol^ 
answered  the  purpose  of  the  cross.  Japanese  soldiers 
were  armed  as  crusaders.  The  Buddhist  goddess  of 
mercy  was  improvised  to  represent  the  Holy  Virgin. 
There  was  wonderful  economy  shown ; the  fragments 
of  Buddhism  were  gathered  together  that  nothing 
should  be  lost.  Buddhism  was  made  to  do  service 
to  Rome,  and  was  beaten  at  its  own  game.  Christian 
churches  were  made  of  Buddhist  temples,  with  but 
little  expense  or  chauge,  amounting  to  no  more  than 
sprinkling  a little  water  on  the  command,  “ thou  shalt 
not  steal.” 

The  great  bells,  the  glory  of  every  Buddhist 
temple,  had  a little  water  thrown  upon  them,  and 
then  they  boomed  for  Christianity,  and  the  same 
lavatory  at  the  front  of  the  temple  held  the  sacred 
fluid  as  when  the  priest  had  performed  his  incantations 


236 


over  it.  The  censer,  that  swung  before  Amida,  was 
filled,  fired  and  set  smoking  in  the  interest  of  Chris- 
tianity ; the  old  beads  answered  as  well  as  the  new ; 
and  even  the  fragments  of  candles  burned  for  Buddha 
were  utilized  in  the  new  order  of  religious  life. 

The  new  departure  began  with  Mariolotry;  the 
next  thing  was  to  show,  when  advisable,  the  spirit  of 
the  inquisition,  freshly  dappled  with  the  latest 
Dutch  martyr  blood  from  Holland;  with  this  came 
Spanish  and  Portugal  gold  in  such  abundance  that 
the  native  rulers  thought  that  the  Christian  religion 
was  a paying  institution.  The  Daimios  became 
Christians,  and  compelled  their  subjects  to  be  baptized. 
Whole  districts  were  ordered  to  be  baptized,  or  leave 
the  country.  So  preaching,  exile,  fire  and  sword 
were  alike  missionaries  to  do  converting  work. 

Miracles  were,  as  usual,  brought  into  service. 
But  when  the  people  were  well  conquered,  or  ex- 
hausted, they  commenced  fighting  among  themselves. 
The  several  orders  began  to  tread  on  each  others’  ec- 
clesiastical toes.  This  brought  shame  on  the  Christian 
name,  imperfect  as  it  then  was.  The  friars  of  the 
orders  were  vigorously  anathematizing  each  other,  and 
in  daily  conversation  denounced  each  other  with  vile 
epithets.  The  natives,  who  were  tired  of  them,  and 
not  without  reason,  had  daily  additional  cause  for  de- 
siring to  be  rid  of  them  on  account  of  their  bad  con- 
duct. The  effects  of  the  contest  between  Philip,  of 
Spain,  and  the  Dutch  were  felt  in  Japan.  Dutch 
traders,  always  fairer  in  business  transactions,  more 
reliable  and  truthful,  stirred  up  the  natives  against 
the  Spanish  and  Portuguese  Papists. 

The  Japanese  do  not  need  much  instruction  as  to 
how  to  use  the  weakness  of  foreigners  against  each 
other,  and  so  they  made  the  best  of  their  opportunities. 


237 


The  Portuguese  were  slave-traders,  and  in  their 
traffic  preyed  on  the  Japanese,  selling  them  to 
Macao,  China,  and  the  Philippines.  The  Japanese 
foreign  wars  and  intestine  conflicts,  and  their  impover- 
ishment by  the  Jesuits  and  their  followers  had  been  so 
great,  that  Malay  negroes,  servants  of  the  Portuguese, 
• could  own  and  speculate  in  Japanese  body  and  blood. 
The  Japanese  ruler,  Heydeyoshi,  had  decreed  death 
to  the  slave-traders. 

There  were  noble  exceptions  in  the  Roman  Catholic 
Church  in  Japan,  men  who  did  all  they  could  to  prevent 
these  atrocities ; but  they  were  in  the  minority,  as  all 
the  villains  of  Spain  and  Portugal  trained  under  the 
banner  of  the  Cross.  A reaction  set  in ; the  preserva- 
tion of  Japanese  existence  required  it.  Heydeyoshi, 
who  was  at  first  favorable  to  the  Jesuits  and  their 
religion,  was  exasperated  at  their  behavior  toward 
each  other,  and  their  intrigues  and  tyrannies,  and  is- 
sued a decree,  in  1587,  of  banishment  against  the 
foreign  missionaries.  The  Jesuits  closed  their  churches, 
abandoned  their  stations  and  ceased  to  preach  in 
public ; but  they  did  worse,  by  machinations  and  secret 
methods  of  which  they  were  masters,  gaining  ten 
thousand  converts  a year.  Spanish  friars  came  in 
multitudes  from  the  Philippines,  and  openly  defied 
the  Japanese  Government.  This  led  to  a second  decree 
of  expulsion,  but  it  was  not  much  heeded. 

In  1596  six  Franciscans,  and  three  Jesuits,  and 
seventeen  Japanese  Christians,  were  crucified  in 
Nagasaki.  Even  this  did  not  dismay  the  priests,  who 
intimated  that  Spain  would  have  revenge.  This  still 
further  exasperated  the  rulers  in  Japan,  and  in  1606 
an  edict  from  Yeddo  forbade  the  exercise  of  the 
' Christian  religion.  An  outward  show  of  obedience 
withheld  persecution  for  a time. 


233 

In  1610,  the  Spanish  friars  again  defied  the  govern- 
ment, and  preached  sedition.  The  year  following, 
lye-yasu  secured  proof  of  a plot  on  the  part  of  natives 
and  foieigners  to  subjugate  Japan  under  the  govern- 
ment of  Spain.  This  was  discovered  in  the  mining 
country,  where  thousands  of  Christian  exiles  had  been 
sent  to  work.  The  names  of  the  native  and  foreign 
conspirators  had  been  written,  according  to  the  cus- 
tom of  the  times,  in  blood  from  the  end  of  the  middle 
finger  of  the  ringleader.  This  determined  lye-yasu 
to  root  this  pestilent  breeder  of  sedition,  as  he  be- 
lieved, out  of  the  land,  and  in  1614  twenty-two  Fran- 
ciscan, Dominican  and  Augustian  friars,  and  one 
hundred  and  seventeen  Jesuits,  and  unnumbered 
native  priests  and  Jesuits,  were  transported.  In  1615,. 
lye-yasu  had  a contest  with  Kedeyon,  who  was  then 
entertaining  some  Jesuit  priests,  and  calling  out  his 
troops,  he  laid  siege  to  the  Castle  of  Ozaka.  A terrific 
battle  was  fought,  ending  in  the  burning  of  the  cita- 
del, the  death  of  the  Christians’  friend,  Kedeyon,  and, 
according  to  Jesuit  sources,  one  hundred  thousand 
followers  perished.  This  battle  left  the  Christian 
cause  in  political  ruin,  giving  the  strange  coincidence 
of  Catholicism  receiving  its  death  blow  in  Japan  in 
the  same  year  that  the  Pilgrims  conquered  an  almost 
unknown  and  inhospitable  climate  to  plant  the  seeds 
of  a new  religious  force  which  has  antagonized  the 
Papacy  to  this  hour.  But  the  exiled  friars  kept 
coming  back  again,  as  if  longing  for  martyrdom,  until 
Hidetada,  the  Shogan,  pronounced  sentence  of  death 
against  any  foreign  priest  found  in  Japan.  His  suc- 
cessor restricted  all  foreign  residence  and  commerce  to 
Nagasaki  and  Kerado.  Soon  after  this,  all  foreigners, 
except  the  Dutch  and  Chinese,  were  banished. 


CHAPTEE  XIX. 


EVENTS  LEADING  TO  A TRAGIC  ENDING, 

CHRISTIANITY  in  Japan  had  now  more  than 
it  could  carry  in  the  character  and  doings  of 
its  professed  followers.  Men  apostatizd,  and  took 
sides  with  the  government.  Fire  and  sword  were 
employed  to  uproot  Christianity.  Persecution  was 
conducted  according  to  the  brutal  tastes  of  the  age, 
and  drove  thousands  of  Christian  converts  to  Formosa 
and  the  Philippines.  At  Ozika  and  Kiu-Siu  the 
people  were  compelled  to  trample  on  the  cross,  or  a 
representation  of  what  they  called  “ the  criminal  god.’’ 
The  Christians  were  bound  in  bundles  of  straw  and 
piled  in  stacks  which  were  fired.  To  the  honor  of 
the  Japanese,  and  as  an  earnest  of  what  they  will  be 
when  redeemed  by  a purer  form  of  religion,  it  is  said 
hatt  few  of  the  native  Christians  ever  faltered.  They 
were  patiently  consumed  in  the  fires  of  wood  split 
from  the  crosses  before  which  they  had  bowed  in  holy 
devotion.  They  went  without  fear  to  the  bloody  pits, 
or  were  flung  into  graves  in  which  they  were  buried 
ali^e.  Mothers  went  to  the  stake  with  their  babes 
nursing  at  their  bosoms,  or  walked  with  them  in  their 
arms  over  precipices  rather  than  leave  them  to  grow 
up  in  heatheaism. 

There  are  volumes  in  Dutch,  Eagbsh,  French,, 
Latin  and  Japanese  showing  the  endurance  of  these 
Christians  for  their  faith.  There  is  no  doubt  of  their- 
fidelity  now  should  the  little  church  again  reviving* 
be  called  upon  to  ratify  its  faith  bv  suffering.  The 
previous  oppressions  were  so  intolerable  that  at  Shim- 

239 


240 


abara  they  took  up  arms,  but  only  in  defence  of  life. 
They  repaired  an  old  caistle  from  which  they  flung  to 
the  winds  the  flag  of  defiance.  Armies  from  Kiu-Siu 
and  Kuano,  veterans  from  wars  in  Corea,  thought 
they  would  have  an  easy  ‘‘  walk-over but  a siege  of 
two  months  was  r(  quired,  both  by  land  and  water,  to 
reduce  this  fortress,  and  th^n  it  could  not  be  done 
until  they  had  used  Dutch  cannon  furnished  by  the 
traders  under  compulsion.  The  beleaguered  Chris- 
tians finally  surrendered  and  were  slain  with  a fiend- 
ishness  inconceivable.  Thirty-seven  thousand  were 
destroyed  during  the  siege  and  capture  by  being 
hurled  from  the  Rock  of  Pappenburg,  in  the  harbor 
at  Nagasaki,  while  other  thousands  we*e  banished  or 
put  to  death  by  torture.  This  decree  was  raised  over 
the  common  grave  at  the  castle  of  the  bloody  massacre : 
“ So  long  as  the  sun  shall  warm  the  earth,  let  no 
Christian  be  bold  enough  to  come  to  Japan,  and  let 
all  know  that  the  King  of  Spain  himself  or  the  Chris- 
tian’s God,  or  the  great  God  of  all,  if  he  violate  this 
command,  shall  pay  for  it  with  his  head.”  Vain 
bos  si!  impotence  on  crutches!  “The  heathen  rage, 
and  the  people  imagine  a vain  thing.  The  kings  of 
the  earth  set  themselves  and  the  rulers  take  counsel 
together  against  the  Lord.  He  that  sitteth  in  the 
heavens  shall  laugh.  The  Lord  shall  have  them  in 
derision.” 

Japan  was  closed  against  all  foreigners  for  two 
hundred  years,  until  God  raised  up  a people  driven  to 
another  continent  through  the  same  Jesuitical  oppres- 
sions that  had  brought  all  to  naught  in  Japan.  As 
the  result  of  the  fires  of  persecution  and  the  tortures  of 
the  i quisition,  there  emerged  a reanimated  Christian- 
ity with  its  civil  freedom,  its  enterprise,  its  civilization, 


241 


and  its  political  power,  opening  the  gates  so  long 
closed,  that  Japan  might  have  the  benefit  of  its  pro- 
gress, its  religion,  and  its  dvil  blessings.  All  that 
remained  in  Japan  apparently  left  of  ti*e  foreigners 
and  their  religion  were  the  bitter  memory  that  a half 
million  of  her  own  best  citizens  had  been  massacred 
without  cause  and  without  mercy,  the  use  of  gun- 
powder and  fire-arms,  only  to  make  her  own  people 
the  more  dangerous,  the  use  of  tobacco,  and  the  iofec 
tion  of  foreign,  loathsome,  unspeakable  diseases,  which 
had  obliterated  virtue  and  left  in  its  place  only  the 
hateful  ichor  of  their  dissolving  bodies. 

It  ia  not  strange  that  for  centuries  after  the  Spanish 
and  Portuguese  departure  the  mention  of  the  Chrisiian 
name  flushed  the  cheek  and  made  the  tongue  stammer, 
as  if  the  noise  and  fl  imes  of  an  unknown  crater  had 
surprised  them.  Never  before  had  Christ  and  his 
people  been  so  cursed.  Guide  boards,  cross  shaped, 
stood  at  all  corners,  at  all  angles,  at  all  departures  of 
streets,  highways  and  byways,  on  which  were  decrees 
against  that  name.  Miju  and  women  shuddered  at 
the  sight  or  hearing  of  it,  as  if  a death- chill  were 
paralyzing  them.  It  seemed  as  if  it  were  to  be  the 
everlasting  drama  of  Christ  crucified,  and  executed 
between  thieves.  They  thought  they  had  buried  that 
name  in  everlasting  infamy ; before  the  end  of  the 
seventeenth  century  it  was  believed  that  not  even  a 
spectre  cf  Christiinity  would  ever  appear.  No  knowl- 
edge of  it  wag  supposed  to  exist  except  in  a vague 
horror  of  its  fading  reminiscences.  There  were  a few 
scholars  in  ancient  lore  who  knew  something  of  it 
historically.  The  bush  was  burned ; but  the  bush  was 
not  consumed.  As  late  as  1829  seven  persons,  six 
men  and  an  old  woman,  were  crucified  in  Ozaka  on 


242 


the  suspicion  of  being  Christians,  and  communicating 
with  foreigners.  The  Lord  will  have  all  exterminat- 
ing efforts  in  derision. 

The  strange  sight  of  the  burning  bush  appeared  in 
1860.  When  the  French  brethren  of  the  Mission 
Apostolique  of  Paris  came  to  Nagasaki  in  1860,  they 
found  in  the  village  around  more  than  10,000  people, 
who  had  not  bowed  the  knee  to  Baal,  and  who  secretly 
prayed  and  longed  for  the  coming  deliverer.  There 
were  waymarks  of  Christianity  which  could  never  be 
effaced.  It  lived  in  their  language.  Deus  Espiritu 
Sanctu  (Holy  Spirit)  and  Yesu  Kinshito  abode  all  the 
time  as  jewels  set  in  darkness.  The  Christians  had 
brought  to  them  the  word  now  used  for  bread,  pan,  as 
they  had  no  word  for  it  in  their  own  language.  Chris- 
tianity is  still  charged  with  the  duty  of  giving  them 
the  bread  of  life.  They  have  derived  tafiTsl  from  table, 
D«ntako  for  Sunday,  and  many  others,  of  which  we 
need  not  trouble  the  reader. 

The  inquiry  now  arises  how  far  was  Christianity 
responeible  for  an  almost  entire  extinction  in  Japan. 
The  answer,  from  its  nature  and  from  history,  must  be, 
not  at  all.  Christianity  never  defeats  itself.  While 
Christianity  was  caricatured  and  outraged  by  Jesuis- 
try,  and  by  rascality  and  intolerable  insolence  of  un- 
principled adventurers,  its  fruits  were  what  they  have 
always  been — good.  It  illustrated  itself  in  the  mar- 

tyrs produced  and  in  the  heroisms  displayed  among 
the  Japanese  people.  Death  could  not  deter  them 
from  duty,  and  the  ingenuities  of  the  pit  could  not 
make  them  apostatize.  I^s  iadfs^ructibility  is  seen  in 
the  fact  that,  separated  from  the  crimes  perpetrated 
in  its  name,  though  suffering  by  them,  it  still  lives, 
and  that  after  two  hundred  years  a remnant  of  ten 


243 


thousand  still  obey  its  behests.  This  is  just  what  is 
coming  to  light  every  day  in  France.  St.  Bartholo- 
mew’s massacre  was  believed  by  the  Romanists  to 
have  extirpated  Christianity  in  France,  but  churches 
are  found  that  have  actually  kept  their  organiza- 
tions through  the  dark  centuries  of  persecution,  and 
are  coming  torth  to  the  light  like  the  hidden  prophets 
in  the  revival  on  Carmel.  On  the  other  hand,  it  was 
not  the  religion  of  Christ  that  caused  the  revulsion 
in  the  feelings  of  the  Japanese,  but  the  want  of 
honesty,  the  want  of  decency,  and  the  horrible  cor- 
ruptions of  the  flesh  which  the  Spanish  and  Portu- 
guese introduced  in  the  guise  of  Christ’s  name  and 
fame. 

Their  hatred  was  not  to  foreigners  as  such,  but 
to  foreigners  that  came  from  Papal  countries.  They 
never  entirely  excluded  the  Dutch,  who  had  an 
island  home  in  Nagasaki.  An  embassy  of  the  Eng- 
lish, with  letters  from  King  James  VI.,  were  kindly 
received  and  established  a factory ; they  also  had  the 
privilege  of  tiade,  because  they  had  confidence  in 
them. 

The  story  of  Will  Adams  is  interesting  in  this  con- 
nection. He  was  an  English  pilot,  and  the  first  Eng- 
lishman in  Japan  who  seems  to  have  inspired  absolute 
confidence.  He  arrived  in  1607,  lived  near  Yedo, 
and  died  1620.  He  rose  to  the  highest  position  in  the 
confidence  of  rulers  and  people  by  his  manly  honesty. 
He  had  nothing  to  commend  him  except  good  sense 
and  sterling  uprightness.  His  knowledge  of  ship 
building  and  mathematics  made  him  useful.  But  he 
was  always  a prisoner,  not  being  ever  permitted  to 
leave  the  island.  He  had  a wife  and  daughter  in 
England,  from  whom  he  was  parted  all  his  days. 


244 


» 


But  in  every  thing  else  he  was  more  than  honored. 
He  had  the  revenues  of  a small  city,  assigned  him  by^ 
royal  favor  for  his  support,  near  the  docks  of  Yoko- 
suka, and  where  the  dry  docks,  machine  shops  and 
sheds,  and  the  ships  of  the  present  imperial  navy  are 
still  built  and  launched.  He  married  in  Japan  and 
left  a son  and  daughter,  from  whom  there  are  those 
who  still  claim  descent.  In  Yedo  a street  was  named 
after  him,  and  the  people  of  the  city  celebrate  his 
memory  on  the  15th  of  June.  When  he  died,  he  waa 
buried  in  state  on  the  brow  of  one  of  the  most  lovely 
hills  about  the  city,  overlooking  the  bay  of  Yedo. 
He  chose  the  spot  for  himself,  and  the  people  erected 
memorial  stone  lanterns. 

As  Nagasaki  was  the  place  of  most  of  the  martyr- 
doms of  ancient  Papal  Christianity,  it  will  be  in  place 
here  to  note  its  position,  resources  and  present  pro- 
gress. One  bright  morning  in  January,  after  a long 
voyage  from  Shanghai  along  dreary  coasts,  we  awoke 
to  the  fact  that  the  ship  was  motionless,  and  the  voices 
which  indicated  loading  and  unloading  assured  us 
that  port  had  been  made.  The  hills  of  this  famous 
harbor  frowned  from  their  shaggy  brows,  looking 
down  upon  us.  It  is  the  snuggest  harbor  in  the 
world ; big  enough,  but  having  nothing  to  spare.  It 
is  rather  a loch  walled  in  by  the  power  of  the  Almighty 
by  means  of  mountains  loosened  from  their  ancient 
beds  and  shot  up  on  all  sides  with  narrow  entrances 
between. 

These  mountains  were  decked  in  January  in  living 
green.  The  sun  was  coming  down  upon  this  loch 
broken  into  rays  by  intervening  trees,  while  tall  pines 
tossed  their  lordly  shadows  across  the  sparkling  waters. 
On  both  sides  were  scant  valleys,  but  these  had  been 


245 


utilized  every  mch,  and  far  up  on  the  sides  of  the 
mountains,  by  the  neatest  houses,  embowered  by 
flowers,  vines  and  evergreens.  There  the  busiest  of 
human  beings  moved  about  in  their  daily  round  of 
duties  and  enjoyments. 

The  Japanese  always  reminded  us  of  the  industry  of 
the  ants,  and  their  forethought  as  well.  They  are  an 
extremely  well  proportioned,  lithe  and  intelligent 
people,  and  seem  not  only  kindly,  but  graciously  dis- 
posed.  They  present  a strange  contrast  to  the  appa- 
rent sluggishness  of  the  Chinese,  who  move  about  so 
indiflerently  to  events.  In  the  Loch  of  Nagasaki 
were  ships  from  every  land,  and  the  products  of  a 
world  were  being  loaded  or  unloaded.  There  were 
also  monster  men-of-war,  British,  Russian,  French, 
Italian,  Austrian,  Egyptian,  Japanese ; but  not  one 
could  be  seen  from  our  owm  country,  which  used  to 
send  ships  that  excited  national  admiration  and  won- 
der. The  Russians  are  obliged  to  send  their  navy 
to  warmer  climes  to  winter,  and  Nagasaki  is  a favorite 
resort. 

The  key  to  Japan  from  the  European  and  Asian 
West  is  as  impregnable  as  beautiful.  One  feels  after 
the  weariness  of  the  Chinese  Sea  that  he  has  struck 
the  vestibule,  at  least,  of  a new  world.  Here  in  sight 
is  that  Island  with  its  T^arpean  rock,  from  which  so ' 
many  native  Christians  were  cast  rather  than  give  up 
their  faith.  Here  veneration  bows  its  bead,  closes  its 
lips  and  stands  awe-stricken  at  the  power  of  the 
religion  of  Jesus  Christ  over  human  life ; how  it  trans- 
forms weakness  into  power,  so  that  in  dying  one  is 
stronger  than  that  which  kills  him,  for  he  knows  that 
in  dying  for  Christ  begin  the  first  pulsations  of  the 
life  everlasting. 


246 


The  country  about  Nagasaki  is  moderately  fertile. 
The  soil  in  most  parts  is  thin  and  requires  manuring. 
The  valleys  and  hillsides  are  divided  into  little  fields, 
often  of  not  more  than  an  acre  each.  The  land  in 
most  places  must  be  irrigated.  The  mountains  are 
full  of  springs  and  water  is  plentiful,  but  it  is  a 
country  cursed  by  malaria,  which  is  due  largely  to  the 
system  of  fertilizing.  The  wastes  from  .human  life  are 
gathered  up  every  night  and  lodged  in  the  soil  the 
next  day  by  means  of  a semi-tropical  sun,  and  thus 
the  waters  are  polluted  and  the  country  is  subject  to 
chills,  dysentery  and  cholera.  The  people  are  mar- 
Tellous  exceptions  of  cleanliness  in  and  about  their 
dwellings.  They  are  bright,  intelligent,  volatile, 
adventurous  and  generous.  They  love  to  be  in  the 
open  air,  and  love  their  country  with  a passionate 
devotion.  They  venerate  nature,  and  almost  worship 
their  mountains.  In  Japan  there  is  varied  and  great 
mineral  wealth.  Hidden  in  her  mountains  are  vastly 
greater  resources  than  appear  upon  the  surface  to-day. 
There  is  an  abundance  of  bituminous  coal,  though  the 
veins  are  not  thick,  nor  is  the  coal  hard ; but  being  at 
the  extreme  of  shipping  commerce,  on  one  side  so  far 
away  that  Europe  cannot  successfully  compete,  and 
too  far  East  for  the  coal  resources  of  our  country,  she 
is  secured  in  untold  wealth  through  this  source.  The 
difficulty  is,  that  there  is  not  native  wealth  enough  to 
develop  the  resources  of  the  country,  and  too  much 
jealousy  towards  foreigners,  and  too  much  uncertainty 
respecting  her  future  to  induce  foreign  capital  to  seek 
her  shores  for  their  development. 


CHAPTER  XX. 


JAPAN  succeeded  Europe  in  the  character  and 
supremacy  of  her  feudalism.  When  Europe 
was  changing  it  for  something  better,  Japan  was  chain- 
ing to  it  her  destinies  for  centuries.  It  arose  through 
the  division  of  official  life  into  civil  and  military. 
The  Fiijiwara  controlled  all  the  civil  offices;  they 
were  first  in  battle  and  last  in  peace.  They  were  the 
emergency  men,  and  accepted  the  dangers,  defeats  and 
advantages  of  war.  But  after  awhile  they  carried  om 
war  by  proxy,  delegating  its  dangers  and  hardships  to 
members  of  particular  noble  families.  These  proxy 
military  officers  were  called  Shoguns.  The  families 
•furnishing  the  greatest  number  of  fighters  or  Shoguns 
were  the  Taira  and  Minamoto  families.  These  readily 
learned  that  power  was  sweet,  if  they  had  not  pre- 
viously an  instinct  for  it.  They  soon  overrode  the 
civil  departments  of  the  government,  trained  and 
equipped  their  own  armies  and  fought  the  battles. 
Having  done  this,  they  concluded  that  they  could  best 
take  care  of  what  they  had  secured.  They  could  be 
bought  by  the  highest  bidder.  It  became  necessary 
for  the  court  at  Kioto  to  interfere,  and  this  had  to  be 
done  under  a Taira,  or  Minamoto  leader,  who  em- 
ployed these  trained  feudal  armies. 

These  two  families  became  military  clans,  and 
finally  the  rulers  of  the  land.  The  court  which  had 
to  use  them  tried  to  suppress  them.  It  would  not 
acknowledge  merit,  nor  reward  the  soldiers  under 
these  leaders  as  they  deserved,  so  the  soldier  had  to 

247 


243 


look  to  his  leader  and  the  leader  to  the  soldier. 
Finally,  the  leaders  took  to  distributing  the  rewards 
of  battle  themselves.  The  civil  power  was  thus  lost, 
and  the  result  was  that  the  great  generals  and  their 
forces  had  to  prey  on  each  other.  No  one  as  yet  had 
been  strong  enough  to  put  the  others  down ; so  they 
seized  all  the  land  they  could  conquer  or  hold. 

Loyalty  was  transferred  from  the  Mikado,  “the 
heaven  given” — born  of  the  sun,  to  the  great  military 
leaders.  Every  man  who  bore  arms  was  attached  to 
some  great  name  (Daimio)  as  a vassal.  The  taxes 
were  collected  by  these  leaders  instead  of  by  the  civil 
government.  The  Mikado  became  poorer  and  poorer 
and  prouder  and  prouder,  as  is  always  the  case  with  a 
shabby  aristocracy.  The  kingly  beggars  were  sus- 
tained by  the  thought  that  the  blood  of  the  gods  was 
in  their  veins,  while  the  Daimios  oppressing  them  were 
earth-born  thieves.  The  Daimios  spent  their  revenues 
on  their  retainers,  their  castles,  or  their  appetites  as 
liked.  What  real  manhood  remained  was  with  the 
poverty  stricken.  These  nobles  were  called  Samurai, 
and  never  in  time  of  peace  appeared  out  of  doors 
unarmed,  their  armor  being  two  swords  in  their  girdle. 
The  general  outfit  of  the  army  was  spears,  long  and 
short  bows,  arrows,  &c. 

Feudalism  begat  neighborhood  and  national  brawls, 
and  somebody  was  ever  fighting,  or  ready  to  fight. 
The  avenger  of  blood  was  an  important  personage,  and 
was  reared  in  nearly  every  family.  The  moment 
chosen  for  inflicting  revenge  was  when  the  victim  was 
about  to  be  promoted  to  higher  place.  Many  an 
orphan  was  made  while  its  father  was  rising  to  the 
acme  of  his  ambition. 

Nowhere  on  earth  is  the  sword  so  important  in  so 


249 


many  relations  as  in  Japan.  It  vas  a becoming  thing 
in  a gentleman  to  have  a collection  of  swords.  The 
men  of  the  Samurai  families  wore  weapons  inherited 
as  heirlooms.  Even  women  wore  short  swords  when 
travelling.  The  sword  was  a divine  symbol,  a knightly 
weapon  and  a certificate  of  noble  birth.  The  very 
gods  were  girded  with  two  edged  swords ; and  from 
the  tail  of  the  dragon  was  born  the  sword  which  the 
sun -goddess  gave  to  the  first  Emperor  of  Japan. 
These  outlines  will  show  something  of  the  rise  and 
character  of  feudalism  and  of  the  military  order  of 
rulers  known  as  Shoguns. 

The  Shogunate  had  marched  through  blood  into 
supreme  power  in  Japan.  The  Mikado  had  been 
relegated  into  the  honorable  place  of  an  ancient  relic. 
The  exclusion  of  foreigners  and  the  destruction  of 
the  power  of  the  Christian  religion  had  cut  off  all 
possibility  of  modification  of  existing  conditions  or 
progress  in  European  civilization,  while  that  which 
had  once  belonged  to  Japan  had  become  effete.  The 
question  of  death  or  revolution  was  all  that  was  left. 
But  happily  revolutionary  forces  were  at  work  unseen, 
and  suddenly  took  form  in  the  overthrow  of  the  Sho- 
gun head,  the  reduction  of  the  rank  and  file  to  vassal- 
age,  and  the  restoration  of  the  true  Emperor,  the 
Mikado,  to  supreme  control  in  all  departments  of  the 
government. 

This  revolution  of  necessity  destroyed  feudalism, 
and  the  dualism  in  rulers,  one  representing  the  divine 
right  of  kings  by  birth,  and  the  other  the  divine  right 
to  rule  by  force.  The  revolution,  so  far  as  we  are 
concerned  with  it,  began  with  the  national  policy  to 
exclude  foreigners,  which  is  peculiar  to  Orientals,  and 
which  will  only  be  obliterated  by  blood. 


250 


There  were  all  the  time  earnest  minds  in  Japan 
looking  beyond  the  walls  of  exclusion,  longing  for  the 
end  of  this  exclusive  policy  and  tyranny.  If  they  had 
been  left  to  themselves,  perhaps  a half  century  more,, 
they  would  have  ended  it.  But  at  the  moment,  when 
weary  years,  like  mountains,  stood  in  the  way  of  ex- 
pectation, to  use  an  apocalyptic  figure,  “ the  earth 
helped  the  woman.” 

There  was  never  but  one  imperial  line  in  Japan,  i.  e., 
the  Mikado,  yet  there  was  always  a military  usurper, 
who  gradually,  through  centuries  of  war  and  feuds, 
subordinated  the  imperial  power  under  the  hypocriti- 
cal plea  of  military  necessity — an  old  monster  in  the 
world,  both  attractive  and  frightful  in  mien. 

Foritomo  became  arch  usurper  through  a long  series 
of  forcible  seizures.  In  1184-1199  began  the  dual 
system,  which  the  world,  including'  the  United  States 
of  America,  has  misunderstood.  The  policy  of  Fori- 
tomo was  continued  by  the  Kojo,  the  Ashikaga,  and 
the  Tokugawas,  who  compelled  an  entire  separation 
from  the  hereditary  throne.  The  corrupt  lye-yasu 
broke  up  the  long  habit  of  going  to  Kioto  to  acknowl- 
edge the  supremacy  of  the  Mikado,  and  from  this  time 
the  power  of  the  Mikado  became  only  a passing 
shadow ; but  his  office  was  as  permanent  as  the  coun- 
try itself,  nor  was  he  ever  entirely  powerless. 

But  the  Bismarck  lived  in  one  city,  and  the  Em- 
peror in  another.  The  Mikado  was  safe  anywhere ; 
he  had  no  power  and  no  enemies,  so  had  no  sentinels 
about  his  palace.  The  great  general,  the  real  ruler, 
dwelt  in  a fortified  garrisoned  castle;  so  the  maxim 
was  constantly  in  the  mouths  of  the  people,  “ The 
Shogun  all  men  fear;  the  Mikado  all  men  love.” 

The  policy  of  the  nation  during  this  duality  of  ruler- 


251 


ship  waa  isolation — separation  by  means  of  the  Chinese 
literature  uncontaminated  by  any  thing  western.  The 
religion  was  Buddhism,  which  comes  down  like  a trip- 
hammer on  every  rising  aspiration  of  the  mind,  and 
has  always  enslaved  where  it  has  had  sway.  So  for- 
eign ideas  were  strangled ; death  became  the  penalty 
for  believing  or  inquiring  about  Christianity ; death 
was  decreed  against  whoever  crossed  the  imaginary 
wall  between  Japanese  darkness  and  western  light; 
and  a slavish  censorate  cleft  every  new-born  thought. 

At  home  the  usurper  was  called  by  sycophants  the 
0-gimi,  or  in  Chinese  Tai-kun,  or  Tycoon — a title  that 
only  belonged  to  the  Mikado.  An  army  of  spies  was 
organized  to  repress  every  inquiry  into  the  past  or  pres- 
ent, and  those  who  had  fears  for  what  might  come  in 
the  future  had  to  express  them  under  their  breath. 
That  foreigners  must  be  deceived  was  an  article  of 
political  creed.  It  had  been  so  long  since  the  people 
knew  any  better,  that  they  thought  the  Mikado  was  a 
god,  who  did  not  meddle  in  human  affairs.  They  be- 
lieved the  man  of  earthly  affairs  was  the  Shogun — 
called  the  Tycoon. 

Strong  as  it  had  been,  this  idea  came  at  length  to 
be  a rope  of  sand.  The  outs  and  ins  will  upset  each 
other  the  world  over.  There  were  princes  and  gentry 
of  the  land,  warriors  as  well,  living  in  penury  and  ob- 
scurity, barely  existing  by  picking  tea,  making  paper 
and  digging  in  the  mud  and  manure  of  the  rice  fields, 
once  their  fathers’,  whose  tombs  were  the  most  honored 
and  magnificent,  who  thought  it  was  time  for  a change 
of  places. 

The  first  distinct  movement  toward  revolution  in 
Japan  was  in  the  revival  of  letters.  Chinese  became 
to  the  Japanese  what  Latin  was  to  Europe  in  the  time 


252 


of  Grotius.  A history  of  Japan  was  written  which 
revealed  the  place  of  the  Mikado  as  supreme  head  of 
the  government,  showing  how  the  usurpers  had  come 
into  power.  Though  finished  in  1715,  it  grew  in  in- 
creasing power  in  the  popular  mind  until  1851,  when 
there  was  unprecedented  demand  for  it.  It  was  writ- 
ten by  Prince  Mito,  and  being  of  the  blood  of  the 
Tokugawa,  he  enjoyed  greater  liberty  of  truthful  writ- 
ing than  any  other  person  could  have  had. 

The  thoughtful  began  to  see  “ men  as  trees  walking.” 
They  saw  “ the  inevitable”  frowning  on  their  idleness 
and  political  sloth.  They  saw  great  floating  palaces 
passing  backward  and  forward  through  the  highways 
of  the  nations,  through  the  heart  of  their  country,  cap- 
turing the  whales  in  sight  of  their  very  coasts.  They 
saw  men- of- war,  with  the  muzzles  of  great  guns 
protruding.  And  now  at  last  the  Americans,  who 
moved  nearer  to  them  by  weeks  of  travel,  by  the 
fleetness  of  their  great  steamers  across  the  Pacific, 
were  actually  in  the  bay  of  Yeddo,  filling  its  skies 
with  wreaths  of  black  smoke,  which  mantled  their 
strange  crafts,  as  if  they  had  opened  a way  from  the 
infernal  regions.  And  what  was  more  confounding, 
they  would  not  go  away  when  told,  as  foreigners  for 
centuries  had  done. 

Russia,  on  the  north,  was  coming  down  on  Saghalm 
The  English,  Dutch  and  Americans  were  crowding  on 
her,  compelhng  her  to  fight  or  to  surrender  her  exclu- 
siveness. Thoughtful  men  saw  that  there  was  neither 
time  nor  room  for  two  courts,  one  at  Yeddo,  and  the 
other  at  Tokio.  One  must  go  down,  and  this  must  be 
the  usurper.  The  Sumarai  would  go  with  the  Em- 
peror, and  this  meant  death  to  feudalism. 

The  crisis  came  when  the  forces  of  revolution 


V 


253 

must  be  put  iu  hostile  motion.  Commodore  Perry 
not  only  sunned  his  grand  navy,  but  informed  the 
authorities  that  he  wished  to  make  a treaty  with  his 
Imperial  Highness,  the  Emperor  of  Japan.  He 
did  not  bluster,  nor  show  his  guns,  but  was  long 
suffering,  gentle  and  courteous.  His  flag  ship,  the 
Susquehanna,  opened  the  way  into  Japan  for  the 
world,  as  well  as  the  way  for  her  out  of  her  political 
slavery  and  solitary  centuries  of  effeteness.  He 
brought  letters  and  presents,  evidences  of  good  will, 
directed  to  the  Emperor  of  Japan.  The  Shogun  took 
the  bait,  no  doubt  with  a double  intention,  but  fraud- 
ulent either  way  it  was  accepted.  He  wanted  to  ap- 
pear as  the  Emperor  of  Japan  should  the  claim  be 
allowed,  and  to  pass  it  off  as  a trick  should  there  be 
resistance.  So  he  signed  articles,  and  received  pres- 
ents which  were  directed  to  his  Royal  Highness,  the 
Emperor  of  Japan.  A Chinaman,  his  under  secretary, 
supplied  the  word  “Ty  coon,”  and  he  would  have  been 
a convenient  person  to  have  blamed  for  the  blunder. 
The  Mikado  had  never  conferred  the  title  on  any  one, 
and  its  significance  could  only  pertain  to  himself. 

The  enemies  of  the  usurper  were  not  averse  to  his 
going  into  the  trap  which  his  own  ambition  had  set, 
for  they  thought  that  his  making  the  treaty  at  all 
would  destroy  his  influence  with  the  people,  which 
proved  to  be  true.  They  took  alarm  all  over  the  Em- 
pire, and  he  was  murdered,  while  his  successor  was 
forced  to  abdicate.  Some  foreigners  were  also  mur- 
dered ; of  the  number  was  the  Secretary  of  the  United 
States  Legation.  This,  however,  woke  the  Japanese 
up  to  the  fact  that  the  gentle  and  polite  foreigners  were 
only  so  when  rightly  treated. 

Force  was  brought  to  bear  on  them  which  soon 


254 


corrected  all  crookedness  in  their  ideas,  and  made 
them  to  understand  that  the  commercial  world  would 
no  longer  stand  their  hinderance  to  its  progress.  More- 
over, the  manifestation  of  superior  military  power  was 
an  eye-opener  to  them.  They  also  saw  that  they  must 
end  their  own  internal  strifes,  that  safety  lay  in 
unity,  and  that  the  men  of  progress  among  them 
must  take  the  lead  in  reconstruction  and  rejuvena- 
tion. The  first  practical  result  of  Commodore 
Perry’s  treaty  was  the  abdication  of  the  Shogun  and 
the  surrender  of  the  feudal  rights  of  the  Daimios. 
Two  hundred  and  sixty-four  of  them  stepped  down 
and  out,  and  many  changed  places  with  the  former 
nobles  who  were  working  in  the  mud  of  the  rice 
fields.  The  presents  from  the  President  of  the  United 
States  never  reached  the  Mikado,  but  perished  with 
the  man  who  had  manoeuvred  to  get  them.  Some  of 
the  remnants  ot  them  were  for  years  to  be  found 
in  Shidzuoka,  ninety-five  miles  south-west  of  Tokio. 

There  is  but  little  doubt  that  in  the  beginning,. 
Commodore  Perry  did  not  understand  the  character 
of  the  government  and  thought  he  wa^  treating  with 
its  head.  But  he  was  soon  enlightened,  as  was  our 
nation  itself,  and  while  the  effort  of  the  United 
States  to  obtain  a treaty  with  Japan  was  not  the 
cause  of  the  revolution  that  followed,  it  was,  together 
with  other  foreign  influences  and  ideas,  the  occasion 
of  it.  All  Perry’s  efforts  were  educational  rather 
than  coercive. 

The  place  of  the  interviews  of  Commodore  Perry 
was  named  by  himself  “Reception  Bay.”  It  has 
become  memorable  as  the  spot  where  Japan  opened 
her  eyes  to  the  whole  world.  The  Mikado,  being 
assured  of  his  return  to  his  rightful  power,  was  not 


255 


at  first  inclined  to  receive  the  foreigners,  and,  no 
doubt,  was  looking  out  for  an  excuse  to  go  back  on  the 
treaty.  But  tb©  light  that  was  increasing  on  his  dark- 
ened eyes  was  constantly  opening  their  vision,  and 
at  last  he  saw  and  felt  the  inevitable.  He  became  a 
man  from  that  day,  and  so  wrought  that  his  people 
might  have  all  the  advantages  of  the  unexpected  and, 
at  first,  disagreeable  change.  The  revolution  went  on 
within  the  empire  until  an  entire  change  of  the  gov- 
ernment was  the  result. 

The  wise  Commodore  understood  Oriental  character, 
and  feared  that  his  policies  might  be  frustrated,  but 
they  never  miscarried.  He  gave  the  Japanese  his 
conditions  and  plenty  of  time.  As  he  left  their  ports 
and  sacred  waters,  he  told  them  that  he  would  be  back 
in  February.  So  he  was  true  to  his  word;  another 
surprise  to  the  Oriental  mind,  which  takes  no  note  of 
time.  He  was  as  polite,  punctilious  and  inflexible  as 
ever,  and  now,  instead  of  making  a treaty  at  Uraga, 
where  he  first  compelled  attention  to  his  presence,  he 
demanded  that  it  should  be  made  near  Yeddo.  So 
Yokohama  was  chosen.  Obscure  and  good  for  noth- 
ing before,  it  has  now  the  destinies  of  nations  forced 
upon  it,  and  there,  on  the  8th  of  March,  1845,  articles 
were  signed  and  exchanged  between  the  United  States 
and  Japan.  An  exchange  of  presents  followed. 

A miniature  telegraph  a mile  long  was  put  in 
working  order  to  the  wonder  and  delight  of  the  people. 
Miniature  locomotives  and  cars  were  set  in  motion ; 
machinery  and  implements  were  used.  Wonderful 
birth'days  were  these  in  Japan,  but  the  greatest 
wonder  was  that  Christianity  was  restored.  It  came 
with  powder  and  guns,  death  and  life  accompanying 
each  other.  The  old  edict  was  re-evoked  So  long  as 


256 


the  sun  shall  shine  upon  the  earth,  let  no  Christian  be 
so  bold  as  to  come  to  J apan,  and  let  all  know  that 
the  King  of  Spain  himself,  or  the  Christian’s  God,  or 
the  great  God  of  all,  if  he  violate  this  commandment, 
shall  pay  for  it  with  his  head.”  Thus  it  was  taught 
to  Japan,  after  the  delay  of  two  hundred  years,  “that 
man  only  proposes,  and  that  the  Christian’s  God  dis- 
poses.” 

Commodore  Perry  dedicated  his  victory  to  Christ 
when  he  spread  the  flag  of  his  country  on  the  capstan 
and  laid  the  Bible  upon  it ; the  two  constituting  his 
authority  as  a man  and  an  oflicer  of  a Christian  coun- 
try offering  its  blessings  to  Japan,  just  opening  her 
gates  to  that  truth  which  alone  makes  free.  And 
never  has  an  un-Christian  nation  made  more  out  of  it 
in  so  short  a time.  She  started  up  from  the  sleep  of 
ages  like  a giant  refreshed  with  wine,  and  has  run  in 
the  new  way  opened  up  before  her  until  she  has  ob- 
tained an  honorable  place  in  the  galaxy  of  nations. 
She  has  put  on  the  fabled  seven  leagued  boots  to  over- 
take the  nations  ahead  of  her,  and  she  is  making  the 
be-t  use  of  them. 

The  present  Mikado  in  his  political  conceptions  is 
abreast  of  the  movements  of  the  world,  and  is  leading 
his  people  into  the  noblest  victories  of  learning,  enter- 
prise and  peace.  He  has  sent  legations  up  and  down 
the  earth  to  find  the  best  ways  of  advancing  physical, 
intellectual  and  moral  prosperity.  All  the  arts  of 
Western  civilization  are  being  introduced  into  the 
land  born  of  the  sun,  and  broader  and  freer  ideas  of 
government  as  well.  The  people  on  the  coasts,  in 
contact  with  the  influences  of  commerce  and  civiliza- 
tion, are  responsive,  but  in  the  interior  there  still 
exists  a love  for  the  sleepy  days  of  undisturbed  repose. 


257 


However,  even  these  are  being  started  into  commer- 
cial and  intellectual  activity. 

This  will  be  the  proper  place  to  describe  the  city,  its 
buildings  and  progress,  which  is  the  product  of  this  new 
birth  of  the  sunny  Empire  into  the  family  of  nations. 
Yokohama  was  conceived  and  built  in  strife ; the 
merchants,  on  the  one  side,  contended  for  it,  an  i the 
officials  of  the  government  against  it.  They  could  see 
no  place  for  the  centre  of  their  new  national  life  so 
advantageous  as  Kanagawa,  on  the  western  side  of  the 
Bay  of  Yeddo,  now  Tokio,  sixteen  miles  from  the 
capital.  Yokohama  was  such  a place  as  would  in  our 
country  be  called  “ Fishtown its  trade  was  princi- 
pally in  fish,  its  huts  belonged  to  fishermen,  and  it 
everlastingly  smelled  of  fish. 

The  streets  of  the  native  quarters  are  in  some 
places  serpentine.  It  was  not  built,  but  as  “ Topsy’^ 
said,  it  just  growed,  somewhat  after  the  style  of  the 
California  towns  of  1850.  It  was  first  inhabited 
largely  by  cut-throats,  burglars,  assassins,  filled  in 
with  a kind  of  cow-boy  crowd  ready  to  kill  men  or  to 
destroy  for  recreation.  Men  came  to  it  at  first 
through  love  of  money  and  mischief.  The  worst 
classes  of  all  nations,  the  adventurers  and  adven- 
turesses of  the  world,  drifted  into  it,  as  if  it  had  been 
an  estuary  with  an  irresistible  power  of  suction.  They 
came  to  impress  the  Japanese  with  bluster  in  no  less 
than  ten  languages.  But  Yokohama  grew  stronger 
and  better,  and  sloughed  off  much  of  this  badness.  She 
was  first  purified  by  fire  in  1866,  which  consumed 
nearly  the  whole  foreign  quarter,  and  this  was  morally 
a blessed  disinfectant.  The  restoration  is  an  improve- 
ment in  all  respects.  One  wonders  how  it  is  that  the 
cities  in  Japan,  built  of  wood,  inflammable  in  every 


258 


part,  stand  at  all ; but  fire  is  not  so  much  used  by  the 
natives  as  in  Europe  and  America  for  domestic  pur- 
poses. 

Yokohama  is  sui  generis;  a kind  of  mongrel  between 
Oriental  and  Western  ideas  of  civilization.  It  is  full 
of  beautiful  things ; for  the  Japanese  are  exquisite  in 
their  tastes,  and  their  near  contact  with  foreigners  has 
added  stability  to  beauty  and  modernness  to  both. 
The  pottery  interest  is  carried  on  here,  and  in  all  the 
seaboard  cities,  to  a most  profitable  extent.  The  city 
has  in  it  great  banking  houses  and  newspaper  offices. 
The  exhibitions  of  real  newspaper  progress  are  credit- 
able, not  only  as  to  native  talent,  but  in  English  ex- 
' pression  as  well  as  in  the  thought  and  language  of 
other  nationalities.  There  are  fire  companies  which 
use  American  engines.  A police  force  is  ever  present, 
enforcing  fairly  well  good  order.  There  are  many  fine 
European  and  native  church  buildings,  with  spires 
and  towers,  indicating  the  presence  of  Christianity. 
Steamers  come  and  go  on  their  voyages  around  the 
globe.  The  noise  incident  to  loading  and  unloading 
ships,  and  strange  languages  confuse  the  stranger,  but 
assure  him  that  he  is  where  the  sun  itself  was  born. 

The  streets  are  full  of  business  energy,  men  are  run- 
ning after  opportunities,  and  women  in  their  European 
and  native  costumes,  are  gaily  and  richly  attired. 
Baby  wagons  are  pushed  or  drawn.  Dogs  frisk  and 
bark.  Beggars  ply  their  trade  in  an  Oriental  fashion. 
Bali  clubs  enlighten  the  dark  places  and  propel  civil- 
ization at  the  end  of  the  bat.  Hospitals,  homes,  in- 
firmaries, rowing,  racing,  and  lawn  tenn’s  abound. 
Pianos  and  organs  are  sold,  and  last  of  ail,  the  insur- 
ance agent  is  there  boring  into  the  sensibilities  of  all 
nations. 


259 


The  ubiquitous  Jew  is  here  working  and  doing  after 
his  stereotyped  way.  John  Chinaman  steps  about, 
cat-like,  on  his  cloth  slippers  and  in  his  silk  or  cotton 
blouse.  Chinamen  possess  the  secrets  of  finance;  for 
all  the  money  changers  and  brokers  are  Chinamen, 
and  all  bearishness  and  bullishness  in  the  markets  are 
laid  upon  them.  The  homes  of  the  people  are  small, 
cosy  and  clean.  They  seem  in  our  estimation  enlarged 
toy  houses.  The  city  abounds  in  evergreens.  There 
is  no  winter  here,  though  there  is  cold  weather.  The 
trees  are  ever  covered  with  richest  green,  and  the  sun 
never  shines  but  flowers  and  refreshing  odors  go  out 
to  meet  him. 

Overlooking  Yokohama  is  a half  mountain,  or  one 
which  tho  Titans  left  half  built.  Back  of  it  are  plains 
of  fertile  country.  From  it  the  great  stretches  of  the 
bay  are  seen,  upon  which  a cloudless  sunshine  dances 
with  youthful  glee.  Ships  of  the  world  are  within 
vision,  with  flags  and  pendants  fluttering.  Dark 
wreaths  of  black  smoke  go  up  in  spiral  form  into  the 
clouds.  The  sun  that  rises  in  such  beauty,  changing 
the  clouds  into  gorgeous  curtains,  is  at  the  same  time 
setting  on  our  own  dear  country  in  San  Francisco. 
From  this  truncated  mountain  can  be  plainly  seen  the 
highest  dome  of  this  beautiful  country,  ever  covered 
with  virgin  snow.  Fu j iami,  which  seems  so  near  that 
one  could  almost  lay  his  hand  on  his  glistening  head, 
shines  afar  as  the  glorious  monarch  of  the  skies  with 
a halo  of  glory  on  his  brow. 


CHAPTER  XXI. 


REVOLUTION  AND  REFORMATION. 

F revolution  does  not  turn  a people  Godward  it 


will  end  in  Anarchy.  The  centrifugal  force  will 
hurl  it  into  fragments.  Perry  suggested  the  way  to  a 
moral  and  political  victory  in  his  first  official  act. 
On  the  first  Sabbath,  as  soon  as  he  had  anchored  in 
the  Bay  of  Yeddo,  he  spread  the  flag  of  his  country, 
the  symbol  of  its  moral  as  well  as  political  power,  on 
the  capstan,  and  laid  upon  it  the  Bible.  The  one 
hundredth  Psalm  was  sung, 

“All  people  that  on  earth  do  dwell, 

Sing  to  the  Lord  with  cheerful  voice. 

Him  serve  with  mirth,  his  praise  forth  tell 
Come  ye  before  him  and  rejoice.” 

Protestant  Christianity  then  took  possession  of  Japan 
in  the  name  of  him  who  is  here  crowned  Lord  ever- 
more. As  soon  as  the  treaty  was  signed,  Christianity 
was  on  the  move.  The  Presbyterian  Board  of  Foreign 
Missions  was  first  in  active  work,  though  others  came 
50  nearly  at  the  same  time  that  the  difference  in  be- 
ginning is  hardly  worth  observing.  One  Protestant 
Episcopal  and  three  of  the  Reformed  Church  of 
America  began  work  at  once  The  Presbyterians  and 
the  Reformed  have  not  only  made  progress  among  the 
people,  but  also  in  unity,  by  which  the  work  among 
the  heathen  is  everywhere  promoted — that  Christian 
at-one-ness  which  has  made  “the  Church  of  Jesus 
Christ” 'in  Japan. 

Dr.  J.  C.  Hepburn  was  a physician,  and  originally 
went  to  China  to  present  Christianity  in  its  two-fold 


260 


261 


aspect  as  the  healer  of  soul  and  body.  He  was  over 
thirty  years  of  age,  and  it  required  endurance  rising 
into  heroism  to  acquire  one  of  the  most  difficult 
languages  written  or  spoken  in  the  world.  He  was 
guided  by  a sense  of  duty,  and  by  a faith  which  led 
him  through  * pathless  seas  for  weary  months.  He 
started  on  his  career  like  the  patriarch  from  Haran, 
hardly  knowing  whither  he  went.  When  his  journey 
was  over,  his  real  perils  only  began.  He  was  com- 
pelled to  live  on  an  island,  the  br^-eding  place  of  dis- 
ease, where  fevers  had  no  recorded  beginning  nor  end. 
He  and  his  wife  were  rarely  free  from  suffering,  but 
this  did  not  deter  him  from  his  duties.  He  mastered 
the  language,  healed  the  sick,  and  in  countless  Chris- 
tian ministries  won  the  confidence  of  the  natives  so 
that  a stay  of  a little  over  three  years  left  the  impress 
of  the  character  of  the  man' not  yet  forgotten.  He 
was  at  last  compelled  by  the  attack  of  disease  upon  his 
own  life  and  that  of  his  wife  to  return  to  New  York 
City.  Here  he  began  the  battle  of  life  again,  wonder- 
ing what  this  disappointing  episode  in  mid-life  meant^ 
or  whether  a knowledge  of  the  Chinese  language  ac- 
quired through  the  tortures  of  disease  and  disappoint- 
ment would  ever  receive  adequate  compensation  in  the 
world.  He,  however,  began  his  medical  practice  in 
New  York  City,  and  met  with  unusual  success.  Ho 
became  a physician  of  prominence,  and  had  a practice 
which  for  the  years  engaged  in  it  might  have  been 
called  in  those  times  lucrative  ; and  if  it  can  be  said 
that  a man  is  rooted  anywhere  in  this  world,  this 
might  have  been  said  of  him,  for  he  had  his  own  home 
free  from  debt,  his  kindred  and  friends,  professional 
and  personal,  and  favorable  prospects  for  the  future. 

While  in  the  midst  of  these  surroundings,  Dr.  John 


262 


C.  Lowrie,  Secretary  of  the  Presbyterian  Board  of 
Foreign  Missions,  became  possessed  with  the  idea  that 
it  was  about  time  to  transfer  him  again  out  of  the 
realm  of  sight  into  that  of  faith.  Having  such  a con- 
viction, all  who  know  Dr.  Lowrie  will  not  be  surprised 
at  his  pressing  home  with  vigor  what  he  regarded  as 
the  convictions  of  duty  and  calls  of  Providence.  He 
told  Dr.  Hepburn  that  it  was  his  duty  to  give  up  all 
and  go  to  Japan,  which  had  just  been  opened  to  the 
Christian  religion  and  its  civilization,  by  the  treaty. 
Dr.  Lowrie  knew  his  man,  for  Dr.  Hepburn  was  quite 
as  conscientious  as  he  was,  and  also  as  determined  in 
his  loyalty  to  the  cause  of  the  Master.  He  did  not 
need  more  than  twenty-four  hours  to  determine  his 
future  course,  \^hich  was  to  drop  all  and  go.  In 
order  to  fulfil  this  purpose,  he  sold  his  house  and 
effects,  gave  up  his  practice,  friends  and  country,  and 
sailed  for  Japan,  and  landed  in  Yokohama,  the  Amer- 
ican pioneer. 

It  was  years  after  the  treaty  was  signed  before  the 
missionaries  were  permitted  to  teach  or  preach  freely 
the  doctrines  of  Christianity  to  the  natives;  every 
thing  had  to  be  done  by  a judicious  indirection,  or  all 
hope  of  success  would  have  perished.  There  was  no 
house  for  the  missionary,  and  no  more  room  for  him 
in  heathendom  than  there  was  for  our  Master  in  the 
world,  for  whom  only  the  beasts  made  room.  But 
there  is  a peculiarly  favored  heathen  custom  which 
always  leaves  the  temples  fjr  shelter,  and  in  these 
many  a missionary  of  the  cross  has  spent  his  first  days 
or  months,  as  necessity  required. 

Dr.  Hepburn  and  his  family  lived  in  a heathen 
temple  for  years.  This  was  curtained  into  apart- 
ments, and  natives  were  employed  as  servants.  The 


263 


first  opportunity  that  opened  up  for  them  to  teach 
Christianity  was  in  the  unpacking  of  their  good^.  A 
picture  of  the  crucifixion  attracted  the  attention  of 
some  of  the  native  helpers  and  led  them  to  inquire 
into  its  meaning.  This  incident  was  to  the  Church  of 
Japan  what  the  reviewing  of  the  same  facts  revealed 
by  prophesy  in  Isaiah  to  the  Ethiopean  eunuch,  and 
what  Philip’s  explanation  of  them  were  to  the  Chris- 
tian Church  in  Africa,  and  to  the  world.  Er.  Hep- 
burn had  great  advantages  in  overcoming  prejudices 
of  the  Japanese  in  the  beginning,  in  not  being  a min- 
ister. He  was,  accordingly,  the  more  acceptable  as  a 
teacher  and  disarmed  arising  suspicions.  He  was  a 
physician,  but  no  one  ever  preached  to  better  efif^ect 
unprofession al ly ; he  carried  healing  for  body  qnd 
soul  in  bo’h  hands.  His  wife  deserves  equal  honor 
with  himself  in  the  glorious  work  begun  and  carried 
on  by  him  for  many  years,  culminating  so  gloriously 
in  the  present.  She  was  the  real  founder  of  the  Pres- 
byterian College  in  Tokio,  of  which  the  Doctor  is  now 
President. 

She  began  a school  in  a little  building  in  sight  of 
the  spacious  hotel,  now  frequented  by  Americans  and 
Europeans,  gathering  together  a few  little  girls,  not 
an  easy  undertaking  in  the  dawn  of  Japan’s  new  life. 
The  boys  would  come,  too ; she  tried  to  get  rid  of  them 
but  there  was  no  use,  they  would  come.  So,  as  a 
compromis‘d,  she  said  to  them,  if  they  would  get  a 
dozen  boys  together  she  would  teach  them  as  well. 
From  this  moment  her  school  grew  until  she  had 
neither  room  nor  strength  to  meet  the  demand,  and 
the  movement  finally  culminated  in  one  of  the  first 
colleges  of  the  Empire. 

The  account  of  their  first  effort  to  acquire  the 


2^4 


knowledge  of  the  language  is  not  less  interesting.  Dr. 
Hepburn’s  previous  knowledge  of  the  Chinese  proved 
of  incomparable  service,  and  now  glints  of  light  from 
the  providence  of  God  that  had  led  him  to  China,  on 
what  was  apparently  almost  a fruitless  adventure,  be- 
gan to  dawn  upon  him.  They  commenced  by  each 
asking  the  native  helpers  the  name  rf  each  article  of 
use  through  the  day.  In  the  evening  they  compared 
their  word  and  thought,  the  treasures  for  the  day,  and 
afterwards  applied  them  as  far  as  possible  to  their 
daily  need,  until  they  both  acquired  the  language. 

Dr.  Hepburn  is  regarded  by  natives  as  the  chief 
scholar  in  the  language  and  literature  of  Japan.  He 
early  prepared  a dictionary  of  the  language,  which 
he  offered  to  the  Board  of  Foreign  Missions  for  publi- 
cation. This  was  not  deemed  advisable.  Afterward 
he  published  it  himself,  and  it  has  been  a great  suc- 
cess, as  well  as  a source  of  revenue  to  the  author. 
The  proceeds  he  has  largely  used  in  benevolent  work 
according  to  his  own  judgment.  He  built  Hepburn 
Hall,  one  of  the  best  in  size  and  appointments  in  our 
College,  at  his  own  expense,  and  he  is  a constant  toiler 
and  contributor  to  all  that  concerns  its  success.  He 
prepared  other  books,  which  are  now,  and  will  always  be, 
standard ; whatever  improvement  others  may  make  it 
will  be  on  them  as  a foundation.  He  has  also  translated 
the  entire  Bible.  In  appreciation  of  the  triumph  of  a 
man,  who  has  passed  his  four-score  years,  his  brethren 
of  all  denominations,  and  many  of  the  appreciative 
Japanese  scholars  and  statesmen,  were  present  either 
in  person  or  by  letter  at  a meeting  held  soon  after  our 
visit. 

He  is  one  of  the  great  men  ‘ of  the  century,  whose 
powers  four-score  years  have  not  been  able  to  dim,  nor 


265 


their  labors  to  weaken  his  intellect.  He  is  honored 
by  scholars,  native  and  foreign,  by  statesmen  and 
government  officials.  An  eminent  foreign  physician 
in  Yokohama  said  to  us,  “The  whole  profession  in 
Japan,  native  and  foreign,  defer  to  him  and  count 
him  the  Nestor  of  the  profession.”  His  home  is  the 
delight  of  his  countrymen,  full  of  sunshine  and  hos- 
pitality. A wonderful  pair  greet  the  incomer,  and 
make  the  guest  feel  at  home  in  their  presence.  Their 
house  is  on  that  beautiful  bluff,  the  place  of  foreign 
residences,  in  sight  of  the  sea  and  of  the  sunsetting. 
Its  last  glowing  rays  rest  on  the  pride  of  Japan,  the 
snow-capped  Mount  Fujiama,  casting  its  effulgence  on 
their  windows  and  mellowing  the  light  of  their  even- 
tide. 

The  fruits  of  missionary  labors  are  everywhere 
apparent  in  Yokohama.  We*  visited  two  churches 
“of  the  Church  of  Jesus  Christ”  of  Japan.  The  one 
had  belonged  to  the  Reformed  (formerly  Dutch). 
The  services  were  at  eight  o’clock  A.  M.  The  con- 
gregation was  large  and  prosperous,  most  of  the 
audience  coming  in  jinrickshaws,  a vehicle  of  two 
wheels  with  shafts,  drawn  by  men. 

The  people  walk  on  a strange  contrivance,  answer- 
ing the  purpose  of  shoes.  A piece  of  wood  is  cut  the 
length  of  the  foot,  but  not  shaped  to  it.  Cross  pieces 
are  fastened  to  the  under  side,  so  that  the  arrange- 
ment resembles  an  old-fashioned  bench  on  a very 
small  scale.  These  are  held  fast  to  the  foot  by  thongs 
of  twisted  straw,  which  pass  between  the  great  toe 
and  the  second.  To  accommodate  this  the  Japanese 
wear  stockings  which  seem  to  be  made  of  lined  tent 
or  awning  cloth,  with  a covering  for  the  big  toe  like 
the  thumb  of  a glove.  The  wooden  soles  keep  them 


266 


up  four  or  five  inches  above  the  ground,  and  these  are 
left  outside.  The  Japanese  walk  about  the  house  in 
their  stocking  feet,  so  that  their  homes  are  noiseless 
from  the  sound  of  human  tread. 

At  church  they  leave  the  little  soles  in  the  vestibule, 
and  a man  receives  them,  and  stows  eight  hundred 
pairs  away,  so  that  when  the  worshippers  come  out  he 
gives,  without  mistake,  each  his  or  her  own.  When 
the  worshipper  steps  out  of  them,  he  walks  most 
reverently  to  the  pew  and  engages  a moment  in 
devotion.  All  lift  their  eyes  toward  the  pulpit,  and 
are  irtent  until  the  services  are  over.  . There  were,. 
according  to  our  counting,  eight  hundred  present  at 
the  meeting  which  we  attended.  They  sing  the  Fame 
hymns  that  we  sing  in  our  own  churches.  ‘‘  My  faith 
looks  up  to  thee,”  had  in  it  a pathos  not  heard  by  us 
anywhere  else. 

The  minister  was  an  exceedingly  interesting  man  in 
appearance,  and  in  his  services.  His  black  eyes  were 
intense.  His  person  was  not  large,  but  well  propor- 
tioned and  lithe;  altogether  he  was  dramatic  without 
knowing  it.  He  was  devout  in  every  movement,  but 
not  more  than  the  people.  Their  offerings  were 
spontaneous  and  generous.  In  the  boxes  were  a large 
sprinkling  of  “yen,”  the  dollars  of  the  country,, 
amounting  to  about  seventy  cents  in  gold.  The  ser- 
mon was^  thirty-five  minutes  long  and  was  not  weari- 
some even  to  one  who  could  not  understand  a word  rf 
it.  The  service  was  profitable,  evincing  the  character 
and  permanence  of  the  work  in  Japan.  An  American 
sceptic,  who  had  come  to  Yokohama  from  Boston  to 
assail  and  subvert  it,  was  taken  to  the  services  in  this 
church  and  Sabbath-school  that  he  might  see  for  him- 
self. He  went  away  saying  that  no  such  results 
ought  to  be  either  disturbed  or  doubted. 


267 


Another  church  was  visited  by  us,  an  English  Epis- 
copal church,  in  which  there  was  a fair  congregation. 
The  same  devotion  and  earnestness  were  apparent  in 
their  use  of  the  service  of  the  English  Established 
Church.  The  native  Presbyterian  church,  now  be- 
longing to  “The  Church  0(  Christ’’  in  Japan,  was 
entered  near  the  close  of  the  morning  service.  This 
is  the  church  in  which  Dr,  Hepburn  and  his  family 
worship.  The  house  is  not  adequate  to  the  congrega- 
tion, and  it  is  a shame  that  they  do  not  have  a better 
building,  when  so  little  money  is  needed  to  build  an 
elegant  church  in  Japan.  It  is  an  old  dilapidated 
frame,  and  is  not  worthy  of  the  great  Presbyterian 
Church.  A new  edifice  ought  to  be  made  a memorial 
of  the  triumph  of  our  mission  work  in  Japan.  The 
congregation  did  not  differ  from  the  one  first  de- 
scribed. They  were  fairly  representative  people  of 
the  city,  intelligent  and  earnest,  making  the  impres- 
sion of  a people  ready  to  suffer  or  rejoice  over  tho 
faith  they  had  espoused.  Their  pastor  is  a man  of 
fine  intellect  and  is  spoken  of  in  the  highest  terms  by 
our  missionaries,  f )reigners  and  natives  who  are  not 
Christians,  but  who  appreciate  diligence,  honesty  and 
sincerity.  A wedding  was  celebrated  in  this  church, 
at  which  we  had  the  honor  to  be  guests,  which  gave 
an  opportunity  to  study  the  best  Christian  social  life 
of  Yokohama. 

The  parties  were  Christians,  the  groom  being  a 
Methodist  physician,  in  good  standing  in  his  profes- 
sion— a rising  man.  The  bride  had  been  a Presby- 
terian missionary  teacher.  The  little  church  was 
packed  in  every  inch  of  its  space  by  cultivated 
natives,  and  missionaries  with  their  families.\  - The 
people  are  small,  compared  with  Europeans  and 


268 


Americans,  but  they  are,  as  a class,  exceedingly  hand- 
some, impressible  and  impressive. 

The  first  thing  surprising  is  their  good  sense 
in  their  wedding  .presents.  They  were  all  taste- 
fully arranged  about  the  pulpit,  and  were  composed 
of  such  things  as  could  be  used  in  housekeeping. 
Among  them  were  dried  fish  in  packages,  done  up  in 
dainty  fashion ; great  quantities  of  silk  wadding,  with 
which  they  fill  their  garments,  &c. ; the  whole  being 
arranged  in  the  most  artistic  manner,  and  decorated 
with  the  choicest  fiowers. 

The  ceremony  was  performed  by  Dr.  Imbrie,  Pro- 
fessor of  Theology  in  the  Seminary  at  Tokio,  assisted 
by  the  pastor,  whose  name,  with  that  of  other  native 
pastors  which  we  had,  was  lost  in  the  shipwreck  at 
San  Francisco.  The  loss  sustained  at  that  time  will 
be  a life-long  regret,  and  must  be  our  excuse  for  per- 
sonal neglects,  and,  no  doubt,  blunders  in  having  to 
restore  names  by  memory.  A single  instance,  which 
we  have  heard  since  leaving  the  country,  has  been 
reported  to  us,  showing  the  exceeding  sensitiveness  of 
the  Japanese  to  real  or  imaginary  slights  from  for- 
eigners, many  of  which  arise  from  ignorance  of  the 
two  countries  of  each  other’s  customs. 

The  night  of  the  wedding  was  cool,  and  the  for- 
eigners did  not  remove  their  “ wraps,”  which  was  con- 
strued by  some  of  the  natives  as  a want  of  courtesy. 
But  it  is  not  customary  to  do  this  in  church  weddings, 
arid  especially  would  it  be  necessary  to  keep  them  on, 
on  account  of  health,  if  there  were  no  fire  in  the 
church.  They  are  only  removed  at  weddings  in 
private  houses,  while  the  matter  is  left  to  comfort  or 
taste  in  churches. 

The  wedding  was  conducted  with  a taste  becoming 


I 


269 


any  country.  The  invited  guests  were  conveyed  in 
jinrickshaws  free  of  charge  to  the  wedding,  and  to  the 
hotel  where  a dinner  was  provided,  and  from  thence 
they  were  sent  to  their  residences — a mark  of  courtesy 
beyond  any  thing  done  in  any  other  country.  The 
groom  was  dressed  in  European  fashion,  while  the 
bride  was  arrayed  in  the  graceful  dress  of  the  country. 

Among  the  many  signs  of  Japanese  progress  in 
religious  civilization  are  the  well-patronized  female 
seminaries  in  Yokohama.  Two  of  these  were  visited, 
and  recitations  were  heard  in  English,  which  were 
equal  to  any  in  our  own  country.  The  young  ladies 
are  quick  to  receive  instruction,  have  a thirst  for 
gaining  knowledge,  and  their  progress  is  often  mg-rvel- 
lous.  Many  of  these  young  women  return  home  not 
only  Christians,  but  genuine  reformers  in  whole  house- 
holds, neighborhoods,  towns  and  villages.  If  the 
motherhood  of  Japan  becomes  intelligent  and  Chris- 
tian, the  country  will  not  stand  long  behind  in  the 
front  rank  of  the  most  enlightened  nations. 

'CHAPTER  XXII. 

THE  OZAKA  AND  KIOTO  COUNTRY. 

The  arable  land  of  Japan  lies  largely  in  the  valleys. 

The  mountains  are  stripped  of  their  soil,  having 
sent  it  down  for  the  sustenance  of  the  lowlands. 
Starting  above  Kobe  an  alluvial  plain  has  formed 
around  the  base  of  the  mountain  range  like  a bow 
with  the  concave  side  turned  in.  This  formation  has, 
no  doubt,  been  the  work  of  the  rivers  bringing  down 
the  earthy  covering  of  the  mountains  and  crowding 
the  sea  closer  to  its  rocky  coasts  on  the  other  side. 

This  valley,  always  outlined  by  the  mountains  on 


270 


one  side  and  the  sea  and  inlets  on  the  other,  is  the 
garden  spot  .of  all  this  part  of  the  Empire.  The  farm- 
ing is  incomparable.  The  fields  are  in  all  shapes  and 
symmetrically  laid  out,  but  the  walls  surrounding, 
whether  of  stone,  turf,  or  hedge,  are  models  of  neat- 
ness. Rice  culture  has  a large  place.  Fields  are 
found  in  swamps  or  lowlands  where  the  water  can  be 
turned  in  upon  them  from  channels  a Toot  deep.  Fer- 
tilizers are  universally  used ; hence  the  whole  air  of 
the  district  is  full  of  the  spores  of  typhoid  and  other 
malarious  fevers.  The  mode  of  fertilization  all  over 
Japan  is  such  that  all  the  waste  is  taken  away  from 
the  cities  and  towns,  which  is  a great  blessing.  But 
this  is  more  than  counterbalanced  by  exposing  the 
fertilizing  material  to  the  scorching  sun  for  nine 
months  of  summer  ; and  what  is  worse,  so  general  are 
the  exhalations  that  the  water- courses  are  all  poisoned. 
Water  comes  down  from  the  mountains  in  torrents,  but 
coming  through  fields  fertilized  in  this  way  it  is  not 
safe  to  touch  it,  however  thirsty  one  may  be. 

About  forty  miles  from  Kobe  is  the  city  of  Ozaka, 
which  has  a population  of  270,600.  It  is  situated 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Yodogawa  river  and  covers  an 
area  of  nearly  eight  square  miles.  Its  name 
probably  originally  meant  “ Hill  of  the  large 
estuary.”  It  has  been  famous  in  Japanese  history 
and  had  forts,  at  different  times,  which  have  been 
destroyed  in  the  national  contests.  In  1583  Hide 
Yoshi  determined  to  make  Ozaka  the  seat  of  his 
power,  the  position  commanding  most  easily  the 
south  and  west.  He  ordered  a castle  to  be  built  on 
the  site  occupied  by  the  Hon-gwan-ji,  which  work 
was  accomplished  in  two  years. 

The  palace  constructed  within  the  Hom-maru  was. 


271 


no  doubt,  the  most  magnificent  building  that  Japan 
ever  saw.  It  survived  the  taking  of  the  castle  by 
lye-yasu  in  1615.  Here  in  1867-68  the  members  of 
the  foreign  legations  were  several  times  received  by  the 
last  of  the  Tukugawa  Shoguns.  Great  expense  was 
lavished  by  Hide  Yoshi  upon  the  open  carved  work 
which  decorated  the  corridors,  and  upon  the  marble 
screens  that  divided  the  rooms.  The  immense  stones 
which  form  the  walls  of  the  principal  gate  of  the  castle 
show  the  magnificence  of  the  original  design. 

Outside  of  the  present  fortress  ran  a second  line 
and  moat-parapet,  the  destruction  of  which  was  made 
a condition  of  peace  by  lye-yasu  after  the  first  siege 
of  1614.  This  moat,  filled  up  according  to  this  agree- 
ment, was  from  eighty  to  one  hundred  and  twenty 
feet  in  width  and  twenty- four  feet  in  depth.  In  1868 
the  building  within  the  castle  was  fired  by  a train  laid 
by  the  Tukugawa  party  on  the  eve  of  their  retreat 
and  destroyed.  The  fortifications  have  no  more  im- 
portance except  to  mark  the  places  of  former  struggles 
and  enjoyments  and  to  be  the  headquarters  of  the 
Ozaka  military  district. 

The  present  city  is  traversed  by  water- courses,  and 
these  are  crossed  by  bridges  so  often  that  it  might  be 
called  the  city  of  bridges  and  stagnant  waters.  Two 
of  these  water-courses  or  water  laid  streets  run 
parallel  to  each  other  north  and  south,  and  eight 
others  cut  these  at  right  angles.  There  are  three 
great  bridges  across  Yodogawa,  communicating  with 
several  thoroughfares  extending  throughout  the  city. 
There  is  a European  “ concession”  which  is  occupied 
by  the  missionaries  and  others  according  to  treaty 
regulations,  by  which  they  are,  in  these  localities,  under 
the  laws  of  their  own  countries,  administered  usually 
through  the  consuls. 


272 


The  city  has  the  usual  number  of  temples,  but  none 
very  costly  or  imposing.  These  buildings  in  Japan 
are  usually  of  wood.  Their  cost  is  largely  due  to 
the  expensive  and  finely  grained  kinds  of  wood  used ; 
but  are  soon  lost  in  dirt  and  mil  lew.  The  style  of 
architecture  is  only  interesting  as  belonging  to  the 
country.  The  carvings  were,  no  doubt,  fine  for  the 
times  ; but  they  could  be  produced  by  very  ordinary 
workmen  by  the  machine  carving  of  the  present  day. 
There  is  but  little  variety  in  the  vast  number  of  them, 
and  whatever  of  beauty  they  possess  is  the  choice  of 
location,  and  oftentimes  to  the  exceeding  beauty  of 
the  floral  surroundings. 

In  Ozaka  are  many  public  baths — the  Japanese 
being  fond  of  hot  baths — but  many  of  these  institu- 
tion for  the  poorer  classes  contribute  to  the  demoral- 
ization of  the  people  through  the  promiscous  bathing 
which  is  too  common.  The  suppleness  of  the  people 
is,  by  some,  thought  to  be  promoted  by  these  hot 
baths,  and  by  anointing  the  joints  practised  by 
them.  If  this  should  be  the  case,  it  would  be  worth 
imitation  among  people  of  colder  climates,  who  suffer 
in  the  joints,  and  who  find  great  misery  in  stooping  at 
fifty  years  of  age,  owing  to  the  deadoess  of  the  cuticle 
on  the  joints,  and  the  loss  of  the  lubricating  fluid  of 
the  joints  themselves. 

The  men  are  not  so  much  inclined  to  what  is  known 
among  Europeans  as  sport.  They  have  enough  of 
hard  work,  and  such  amusements  have  too  much  of 
this  3lement  to  allure  them,  many  passing  every  day 
of  their  lives  in  labor,  having  not  even  a Sunday. 
They  are  a cheerful  people ; often  their  cheery  laughs 
are  heard  on  the  streets,  making  a strange  contrast 
with  China,  where  both  men  and  things  appear  as  if 


273 


they  had  just  come  from  a faneral.  But  the  Japan- 
ese have  a future,  and  already  there  are  earnests  of 
what  they  may  become;  and  they  are  preparing  for 
the  better  day  wiih  commendable  diligence. 

Now,  the  people  go  in  bare  feet  or  stocking  feet, 
except  when  they  clatter  along  on  a wooden  con- 
trivance, consisting  of  a piece  of  board  the  size  of  the 
foot,  with  two  pieces  fastened  across  the  bottom  at 
right  angles.  The  whole  thing  is  loose  and  slip-shod, 
working  up  and  down,  backwards  and  forwards,  so 
that  at  night  and  when  ail  else  is  still,  the  streets  be- 
come a bedlam  of  these  distracting,  clattering  noises. 
An  army  mounted  on  them  could  be  heard  five  miles 
away.  The  stockings  are  peculiar,  usually  made  of 
tent  cloth,  having  a place  f ;r  the  big  toe,  the  rest  of 
the  toes  covered  as  in  an  ordinary  stocking.  The 
result  is,  that  the  feet  are  made  broad,  so  that  ordinary 
European  leather  rshoeo  are  too  narrow  and  pinch. 

The  Japanese  have  not  yet,  to  any  considerable 
extent,  learned  how  to  tan  leather,  nor  how  to  make 
ineir  own  shoes.  But  this,  too,  is  coming;  for  in 
Ozaka  there  is  a large  tannery  for  preparing  leather 
for  shoes  for  the  army,  and  an  American  is  employed 
as  superintendent,  at  a fine  salary,  and  furnished  with 
elegant  quarters.  When  they  have  mastered  the  art, 
as  they  soon  will  do,  the  chances  are  that  the  Japan- 
ese will  be  shod  in  their  own  leather,  and  will  not 
need  us  to  instruct  them  longer.  This  is  their  policy; 
they  have  no  use  for  foreigners  after  they  get  what 
they  need  from  them. 

In  a company  owning  and  running  fifty  steamers, 
each  steamer  was  in  the  beginning  commanded  en- 
tirely by  English  and  Americans.  They  have  now  in 
command  about  one- half  Japanese,  and  would  have 


271 


them  all  Japanese  if  the  European  travellers  would 
trust  them,  and  if  the  insurance  companies  would  take 
risks  oh  the  vessels.  They  are  starting,  however, 
companies  of  their  own,  and  when  they  are  strong 
enough  to  stand  the  strain  will  ask  no  favors  of  the 
European  companies.  They  will  soon  dismiss  the 
missionaries,  and  would  do  so  now,  if  they  had  the 
means  to  carry  on  their  work.  So  potent  is  this  sen- 
timent that  a missionary  pastor  can  hardly  be  found, 
nor  ought  this  to  be  complained  of,  for  this  is  just  the 
end  to  which  all  have  wrought,  to  wit,  an  independent, 
self-supporting  Japanese  church. 

The  mission  work  has  been  successful  in  both  its 
educational  and  evangelical  aspects  in  Ozaka.  The 
American  Board  occupied  this  territory  early,  and 
have  had  good  success  in  their  schools  and  churches. 
Tne  Presbyterians  were  late  in  the  field,  but  are  doing 
well.  Rev.  Messrs.  Fisher,  Alexander  and  Hearst 
are  doing  evangelistic  work  all  through  this  district. 

The  church  at  Ozaka  has  been  under  the  care  of 
Rev.  C.  M.  Fisher  for  six  years ; it  was  founded  by 
Rev.  T.  T.  Alexander.  It  had  originally  ten  Chris- 
tians ; now  there  are  two  organized  churches  and  one 
hundred  and  seventy-five  adult  members.  There  is 
also  a neat  and  commodious  church  building,  tho  cost 
of  which,  including  the  building  lot,  was  almost  en- 
tirely defrayed  by  natives.  The  people  are  coming 
into  the  church  all  over  Japan  faster  than  they  can 
be  cared  for.  In  most  heathen  countries  the  trouble 
is  to  reach  the  people,  but  in  Japan  it  is  to  get  the 
requisite  preachers  and  teachers.  The  natives,  of 
course,  are  the  most  effective,  but  they  must  first  be 
educated  into  Christianity,  and  then  into  safe  teachers 
and  leaders  of  the  people. 


275 


The  Protestant  church  of  Japan  would  double  its 
numbers  and  influence  every  three  years  if  it  could 
only  have  the  necessary  consecrated  and  educated 
native  talent.  The  work  must,  therefore,  for  years  be 
slow,  not  because  the  people  are  hostile  or  even  indif- 
erent,  but  because,  with  all  the  efl3rtnow  put  forth  in 
schools  and  theological  institutions,  the  laborers  are 
so  few. 

The  cause  of  female  education  is  making  good  pro- 
gress here  in  connection  with  the  mission  of  the  Pres- 
byterian Board.  A new  building  is  being  erected  on 
a beautiful  and  healthful  site,  in  a plot  of  about  five 
acres,  sloping  away  from  the  building,  ensuring  the 
best  of  drainage.  It  will  furnish  abundant  room  for 
exercise,  and  is  surrounded  with  shade  and  fruit  trees. 
The  building  has  a foundation  of  dressed  stone  about 
three  feet  from  the  ground,  with  handsomely  cut  water 
tables,  door  and  window  facings  of  stone,  the  rest 
being  of  red  brick.  It  had  reached  an  elevation  of 
nearly  five  feet  when  we  saw  it,  and  the  workmen 
were  pushing  it,  and  the  material  was  nearly  all  on 
the  ground.  This  school  is  under  the  care  of  Misses 
Oarvin  and  Warner. 

The  American  Board  has  a stronghold  in  Ozaka, 
three  of  their  strongest  native  churches  being  in 
this  city.  They  have  also  a girls  boarding  school, 
entirely  self-supporting^  and,  like  all  other  mission 
schools  in  J apan,  there  is  not  room  for  the  multitudes 
who  are  anxious  to  come. 

The  next  city  of  importance  on  this  railroad 
route  is  noteworthy  as  the  historic  centre  of  Japan. 
Kioto,  which  has  been  the  most  famous  and  in- 
fluential city  in  Japan,  has  still,  amidst  its  decay 
of  imperial  grandeur,  many  objects  of  great  inter- 


276 


est.  From  the  earliest  ages  it  was  the  seat  of  the 
Mikado’s  rule,  though  it  was  occasionally  in  Yamato ; 
but  owing  to  the  ancient  custom  of  leasing  the  house 
of  a deceased  parent,  the  site  of  the  palace  was 
changed  at  the  beginning  of  each  natural  reign.  In 
the  beginning  of  the  eighth  century  the  capital  was 
founded  at  Nara,  where  it  stood  until  784.  Then 
the  reigning  sovereign,  Kuammu,  moved  to  Nagaoka. 
He  selected,  in  703,  another  site  at  the  village  of 
Uda,  in  the  same  province,  and  moved  there  at  the 
end  of  the  year  following.  He  called  it  the  “ City  of 
Peace,”  but  nobody  else  would  adopt  the  name,  and 
so  it  was  called  Miyako  or  Kio,  the  fjrmer  being  the 
Japanese  and  the  latter  the  Chinese  word  for  the  resi- 
dence of  the  sovereign.  Kioto,  (*‘  the  capital,”)  has 
long  been  in  use. 

^ "*  The  palace-grounds  are  extensive,  and  were  grand 
for  their  day,  but  modern  rulers  would  have  better 
fencings  around  their  houses.  The  usual  moat  sur- 
rounds the  grounds,  but  it  is  a small  affair,  which  could 
be  spanned  by  the  legs  of  a medium  sized  European. 
In  1177,  the  palace  of  the  time  was  destroyed  by  fire, 
and  for  a short  period  the  seat  of  government  moved 
by  Kiyomori,  Fujiwara  or  Niogo.  After  Youtomo 
had  made  himself  master  of  the  State,  he  built  a 
miniature  palace,  which  was  also  burned  in  1249,  but 
immediately  rebuilt. 

During  Go  Daigo  Tenno’s  short  tenure,  a greater 
palace  was  built,  supposed  to  be  equal,  if  not  superior, 
to  all  before  it,  but  this  was  destroyed  when  he  was 
•driven  away.  His  successors  had  to  live  in  meaner 
places  while  the  Onin  war  progressed  in  1468.  The 
palace  alone,  of  the  whole  city,  escaped.  Still  another 
was  erected  upon  the  same  site,  and,  with  the  six  that 


succeeded  it,  was  destroyed  by  successive  fires,  when 
nearly  the  half  of  the  entire  city  was  also  laid  in 
ashes.  The  removal  of  the  Mikado  to  Tokio  affected 
the  prosperity  of  the  old  capital,  and  in  1877  it  had 
a population  of  only  225,539.  The  places  once  occu- 
pied by  houses  are  now  used  as  market  gardens.  It 
is  supposed  that  formerly  there  were  90,000  houses 
and  a population  of  450,000,  occupying  an  area  of 
one  hundred  and  eighty- nine  square  miles. 

The  palace  of  the  Mikado  is  quite  extensive,  with 
suites  of  apartments,  throne  and  audience  rooms. 
Here  was  formerly  preserved  a copy  of  the  sacred 
mirror,  the  original  being  at  the  Temple  of  Alsuta, 
which,  when  the  building  was  on  fire,  in  the  tenth 
century,  according  to  tradition,  flew  out  of  the 
building,  and  was  found  in  a cherry  tree  by  one  of 
the  female  attendants,  who,  with  her  class,  ever  after 
had  custody  of  it.  The  mirror  was  given  to  the 
Mikado’s  ancestor  by  the  sun  goddess.  In  the  apart- 
ment occupied  by  the  Mikado,  a part  of  the  floor  was 
covered  with  fresh  earth  every  morning,  so  that  his 
Majesty  could  worship  his  ancestors  on  the  earth 
without  going  out  of  his  room.  His  apartment  was 
completely  surrounded  by  those  of  his  attendants, 
so  that  it  was  impossible  to  approach  him  without 
their  knowledge.  Environing  the  palace  are  gardens 
artistically  laid  out,  and  tasteful  pavilions,  the  latter 
adorned  with  paintings.  The  palace  of  the  Empress 
is  connected  by  a long  passage  with  that  of  the  Em- 
peror. 

There  is  now  being  erected  a temple  of  magnificent 
proportions,  to  cost  $250,000,  which  is  in  Japan 
almost  a fabulous  sum,  especially  for  a wooden 
building.  The  foundation  is  of  stone,  of  superb  > 


273 


quality  and  workmanship,  about  ten  feet  high,  on 
which  is  a structure  of  wood  which  would  be  a won- 
der anywhere.  The  wood  has  been  selected  through 
years  of  care,  the  grainings  are  superb  and  the  colors 
of  the  wood  arranged  to  produce  the  finest  efiect. 
Much  of  the  lumber  is  planed  and  polished  to  the 
highest  finish  of  which  the  wood  is  capable.  The 
timbers  are  fully  eighteen  inches  square,  resting  on 
immense  wooden  pillars  of  the  choicest  of  foreign 
forests,  carved  in  exquisite  figures  and  tracery.  The 
elevation  of  the  whole  building  will  not  be  far  from 
one  hundred  feet,  and  nearly  three  hundred  in  area. 
No  paint  will  ever  go  upon  it.  The  wood  will  reveal 
its  finest  colors  with  age,  and  also  show  the  power  of 
the  elements  to  add  their  stains. 

The  most  interesting  object  of  all  was  a rope,  larger 
than  a ship’s  hawser,  weighing  three  thousand  pounds 
and  made  from  human  hair  given  in  offering  through 
years  to  the  deities  worshipped,  and  finally  twisted 
into  this  great  hawser,  devoted  to  the  sacred  work  of 
lifting  timbers  and  burdens  for  the  erection  and  re- 
pairing of  Buddhist  or  Shinto  temples. 

Reflections  would  arise  as  to  how  many  devout 
heads  have  been  stripped  of  their  glory  for  this 
sacrifice,  and  how  many  had  toiled  and  struggled 
through  life,  and  in  the  end  this  was  all  they  could 
give,  resembling  the  offering  of  Mary,  who  only  had 
tears  and  her  lustrous  tresses  to  offer  in  the  service  of 
her  Lord  and  benefactor.  These  misguided  ones  like- 
wise did  what  they  could,  and  it  was  their  loss  that  it 
was  done  not  for  Christ,  who  only  can  reward. 

But  there  are  living  issues  incomparably  better  than 
palaces  and  their  furnishings,  the  decayed  relics  of 
a dead  empire,  lying  like  the  shell  out  of  which,  by  a 


279 


strange  metafnorphosis,  new  and  now  living  Japan  has 
emerged.  These  forces  have  no  palaces;  no  long 
line  of  native  ancestries ; no  monuments  but  the  life 
they  produce.  This  temple,  now  building  from  “ lively 
stones  ” in  the  capital  of  a new  Empire,  is  that  of  tlie 
living  God.  The  toil,  privations,  patience  and  vic- 
tory belong  to  the  mission  workers  and  their  consti- 
tuency in  America,  who  have  wrought  through  that 
immortal  institution  known  as  the  American  Board 
of  Foreign  Missions,  with  its  seat  in  Boston,  Mass. 

It  was  a treaty  regulation  that  foreigners  were  not 
permitted  to  go  nearer  than  twenty-five  miles  to  Kioto, 
and  even  now  they  must  have  a passport.  In  1882 
an  Exposition  was  opened,  which  lasted  one  hundred 
days.  During  this  interval  all  could  go  to  the  sacred 
city,  but  it  was  not  safe  to  go  about  it  without  the 
protection  of  the  police.  This  interval  of  one  hun- 
dred days  was  looked  upon  by  the  Rev.  O.  H.  Gulick 
and  his  wife  as  the  special  intervention  of  providence 
enabling  them  to  reach  a people  who  had  sat  in  the 
regions  of  darkness,  behind  bars  more  than  iron  strong. 
While  these  precious  days  went  by,  they  made  the 
acquaintance  of  Mr.  K.  Yamamato,  a blind  Japanese 
scholar.  Counsellor  to  the  Governor  of  Kioto.  From 
this  friendship  came  one  of  the  most  remarkable 
movements  in  all  missionary  annals.  It  was  the 
beginning  of  the  preaching  and  educational  work 
which  has  given  K^oto  two  large  native  churches,  with 
mission  out-stations.  Sabbath  and  day  schools,  with 
all  their  blessed  leavening  influences,  now  so  happily 
working  through  the  circulations  of  the  lit^e  of  the 
Empire.  But  its  chief  agency  consists  in  the  college, 
theological  and  female  seminaries,  and  hospital  work, 
which  grew  out  of  that  period  of  political  grace  to  all 
the  nations  of  the  earth. 


280 


In  Rutland,  Vermont,  we  may  also  see  God^s  hand 
working  to  bring  about  the  wonderful  results  attend- 
ing the  opening  he  had  effected  in  Kioto.  In  a mis- 
sionary meeting  in  1874,  during  the  annual  meeting 
of  the  American  Board  at  Rutland,  when  the  native 
Japanese  minister.  Rev.  J.  II.  Neeshima,  a student  in 
the  United  States,  was  about  to  return  to  Japan,  an 
effort  was  made  to  raise  money  to  start  a Christian 
college.  About  five  thousand  dollars  were  raised 
then  and  increased  at  intervals  afterwards*  This 
was  used  by  a Christian  Japanese  company  called 
Doshisha,  or  “one  endeavor  society,”  the  manage- 
ment being  under  the  control  of  d combined  native 
and  American  Faculty,  and  the  funds  being  largely 
the  gift  of  the  American  Board.  The  school  occa- 
sioned great  enmities  and  persecutions,  both  from 
priests  and  officials,  and  would  have  failed  but  for 
the  constant  intercession  of  the  blind  Yamamato  in 
both  Kioto  and  Tokio.  The  question  of  existence 
depended  on  getting  a location,  a landed  foothold  in 
Kioto,  and  this  too  was  effected  through  the  blind 
Yamamoto,  who  had  obtained  fi^e  and  a half  acres  in 
a magnificent  situation  for  all  school  and  mission 
purposes.  It  had  been  the  site  of  the  ancient'  palace 
of  Daimyo,  Priace  of  Satsuma. 

This  splendid  historical  site  was  secured  at  the  low 
sum  of  five  hundred  and  fifty  dolJars.  It  looks  out 
upon  the  old  palace  where  the  Mikados  ruled  for 
more  than  a thousand  years.  There,  as  late  as  1876, 
two  buildings  were  erected,  and  one  year  after  forty 
Christian  students  came  into  the  school  from  Kum- 
amoto, the  country  seat,  as  one  would  call  it,  of 
Nigo  in  Kiushu.  Fifteen  of  these  were  graduates  of 
a school  started  five  years  before  under  direction  of 
an  Anti-foreign  and  Anti-Christian  Japanese  Society. 


281 


A Christian  American  and  his  wife  had  been  en- 
gaged, absurd  as  it  may  appear,  to  lead  this  Anti- 
Foreign  and  Anti-Christian  school.  This  faithful 
pair  lived  Christ  as  they  taught,  and  their  reward 
came  when  forty  of  these  students  pledged  their  lives 
to  his  service.  This  class  in  the  new  theological 
school  completed  a three  years^  course,  and  have  been 
active  and  useful  teachers  and  preachers;  multitudes 
through  their  efforts  have  been  won  into  connection 
with,  or  into  favor  towards,  Christianity.  This  col- 
lege, in  its  several  departments,  is  well  furnished  with 
able  teachers,  who  are  not  only  instructing,  but  con- 
verting men.  There  are  sixty  young  men  in  the 
theological  department.  The  buildings  have  in- 
creased in  number  as  the  demands  for  their  enlarge- 
ment have  come,  and  now  there  is  a collegiate  depart- 
ment, a theological  seminary,  eight  dormitories,  be- 
sides boarding  halls  to  accommodate  more  than  three 
hundred  students,  and  more  than  this  number  crowded 
into  them. 

There  is  a handsome  brick  hall  with  granite  trim- 
mings, in  which  are  eight  recitation  rooms,  a beautiful 
brick  chapel  with  a seating  capacity  of  five  hundred, 
a natural  history  department,  a library  building  just 
completed,  a reading  room,  a chemical  laboratory 
and  four  recitation  rooms.  This  building  is  of  brick 
with  stone  foundation  caps  and  copings.  In  this  in- 
stitution are  nine  foreign  and  eight  native  teachers, 
and  of  the  fifty-eight  graduates  all  but  three  have 
been  professing  Christians,  while  thirty-eight  have 
graduated  from  the  theological  department.  At  the 
close  of  the  last  year’s  session  the  standing  of  the 
classes  toward  the  Christian  religion  was  as  follows : 
The  graduating  cUss  of  ten  were  all  Christians;  of 


282 


the  fourth  year’s  class  numbering  fifteen,  ten  were 
Christians;  of  the  third  year’s  class  of  thirty-one,, 
twenty-eight  were  Christians;  of  the  second  year’s 
class  of  thirty-eight,  thirty-three  were  Christians ; and 
of  the  first  year’s  class  of  one  hundred  and  one,  fifty- 
one  were  professors  of  the  Christism  religion.  Heathen- 
ism has  not  much  capital  in  this  institution. 

The  need  for  educated  women  is  as  great  ill  Japan 
as  for  men  ; indeed,  the  one  cannot  exist  without  the 
other,  they  are,  as  in  all  other  relations  in  life,  supple- 
mental and  helpful  to  each  other.  So  under  the  same 
control  is  a female  seminary,  admirably  situated  in 
sight  of  the  Palace  Park,  with  increased  accommoda- 
tions nearly  finished.  One  hundred  and  fifty  girls 
are  in  attendance.  There  is  also  a hospital  with  a 
training  school  for  nurses,  having  dormitories,  &c, 
which,  during  the  last  half  of  1887,  had  over  thiee 
thousand  out-patients. 

There  were  organized  in  Kioto,  in  1876,  three 
churches  with  an  aggregate  membership  of  only  fifty, 
the  greater  part  being  students.  The  hostility  of  the 
ofiicials  and  of  many  of  the  people  was  outspoken  and 
intolerable.  No  places  could  be  secured  for  holding- 
services,  and  they  had  to  be  held  in  the  houses  of  the 
missionaries.  In  ten  years  after  there  was  a member- 
ship of  434,  more  than  one-half  of  whom  were  citizena 
of  the  ancient  city,  and  the  increase  has  been  larger 
ever  since.  Three  churches  have  been  organized  on 
the  historic  shores  of  Lake  Biwa,  seven  miles  away, 
whose  shores  have  been  gory  with  the  blood  of  some 
of  the  fiercest  battles  of  the  empire.  What  wonders 
hath  God  wrought  that  now  on  these  very  places 
should  be  entrenched  the  armies  of  the  Prince  of 
Peace. 


283 


Another  church  has  been  organized  in  the  Province 
of  Tamba,  west  of  Kioto,  and  this  is  a root  with  out- 
springing  branches.  From  this  old  Daimiate  town  it 
has  extended  its  work  more  that  thirty  miles,  and  has 
out-stations  with  preaching  on  the  Sabbath  at  five 
stations.  These  stations  pay  all  the  expenses  inci- 
dent to  their  organization  and  service,  beside  support- 
ing three  evangelists  who  receive  help  only  to  the 
extent  of  four  dollars  a month-  There  is  a member- 
ship of  between  one  and  two  hundred,  and  yet  it  is 
sneeringly  said,  Foreign  missionaries  do  nothing, 
and  it  takes  five  dollars  to  get  one  dollar  to  the 
field.” 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

mSE  AND  PEOGEESS  OF  CHEISTIANITT  AND  ITS 
CIVILIZATION,  IN  KIOTO. 

There  have  always  been  the  most  kindly  and 
helpful  relations  between  the  missionaries  of  the 
Presbyterian  Board  and  those  of  the  American  Board, 
They  entered  Japan  nearly  at  the  same  time,  and 
have  from  the  first  led  all  others,  and  have  now  the 
strongest  following,  the  most  numerous  schools  and 
colleges,  and  are  the  best  equipped  for  future  progress. 
The  Presbyterians  of  all  divisions  united,  and  were 
formed  into  a national  and  native  organization  called 
the  Church  of  Christ  in  Japan.  Entering  into  this 
union  were  the  missionaries  and  the  native  converts 
of  the  missions  of  the  Northern  and ‘Southern  Presby- 
terian Churches,  the  Reformed,  (formerly  Dutch),  one 
of  the  oldest  and  most  efiective  in  the  field,  with  some 
of  the.  strongest  churches  and  institutions,  the  German 


284 


Reformed,  and  the  Irish  Presbyterians.  Thus  was 
ormed  a united  and  effective'  body  for  aggressive 
work  in  Japan,  so  that  the  word  foreign  mission  was 
measurably  dropped  and  the  better  name  of  ‘‘the 
Church  of  Jesus  Christ  in  Japan’’  has  taken  its  place. 

This  change  has  been  adverted  to  here  to  call 
attention  to  another  movement  towards  union  between 
this  body  and  the  missionaries,  native  ministers  and 
communicants  of  the  American  Board,  supported  by 
the  Congregational  Church  of  our  country.  This 
union  would  make  the  strongest  Church  in  Japan, 
and  if  the  weld  were  perfected  in  the  flame  of  Chris- 
tian love  and  charity,  Christianity  would  be  so  helped 
by  this  union  alone  that  the  Church  would  be  national 
and  self-supporting  in  a few  years,  and  no  foreign 
missionaries  would  be  needed  in  the  purely  missionary 
work.  Great  progress  has  been  made,  though  hin- 
dered at  home  and  abroad,  and  over  all  difficulties 
the  movement  gains  Negotiations  have  been  broken 
off,  it  is  true,  and  the  accomplishment  declared  impossi- 
ble ; but  there  is  nothing  impossible  with  God,  and  noth- 
ing is  impossible  to  his  servants  who  think  more  of  sav- 
ing souls  than  of  favorite  methods  and  policies  and  the 
weighing  of  probabilities,  nicely  adjusted,  as  to  which 
Church  at  home  will  gain  or  lose  most  by  the  arrange- 
ment. Many  of  the  best  missionaries  of  the  Church, 
in  which  we  have  the  privilege  of  a birthright,  are 
against  this  judgment,  and  some  for  whom  we  have  a 
lifelong  affection  will  be  aggrieved  when  our  opinion 
is  thus  recorded,  but  it  is  a conviction  profound,  dis- 
passionate and  unselfish  that  the  thing  ought  to  be 
done. 

The  missionaries  in  the  field,  who  know  the  situation 
better  than  we,  and  love  Japan  and  its  Lord  Jesus  as 


^85 


Tve  who  know  of  it  only  by  report  and  printed  page, 
never  can,  ought  not  to  surrender  the  purpose ; and, 
if  defeated,  ought  to  organize  victory  out  of  defeat 
until  they  see  eye  to  eye  in  doctrine  and  policies. 
Surely  they  now  feel  in  their  hearts  that  this  is  the 
best  thing  for  the  kingdom  of  Christ  in  the  Empire 
of  Japan. 

The  American  Board  has,  as  in  every  other  place 
in  the  "vorld,  a grand  mission  plant,  and  noble,  self 
sacrif  cing  men  and  women  to  work  it  in  every  depart- 
ment. They  seem  to  the  stranger  to  know  only  Christ 
and  him  crucified.  Their  converts  are  generally  faith- 
ful, only  a few  falling  back,  not  more  in  proportion 
than  in  the  home  churches ; and  those  who  stand  true 
are  making  great  progress,  considering  the  differences 
LM  their  surroundings,  in  spiritual  life. 

There  are  churches  in  Kobe  and  a first-class  female 
school, in  which  recitations  were  heard  by  us,  comparing 
favorably  with  any  in  like  institutions  at  home.  Also 
in  Ozaka  and  throughout  all  the  country  between 
Kobe  and  Kioto.  One  of  the  first  evidences  of  God’s 
favor  to  their  work  sprang  from  the  life  of  an  Ameri- 
can secular  teacher,  who  worked  under  the  strictest 
injunctions  not  to  say  a word  to  his  pupils  on  the 
subject  of  Christianity.  He  was  not  to  do  any  thing 
in  any  conscious  way  that  would  lower  their  reverence 
for  tlie  religion  of  their  fathers.  The  obligation 
was  scrupulously  kept,"but  he  could  not  obscure  the 
unconscious  influence  of  a Christian  life,  which  in  the 
Christian  works  a daily  transfiguration.  He  was 
steadily  watched  as  the  unconscious  saving  virtue 
went  out  of  him,  like  a divine  halo  about  his  life, 
and  the  young  men  under  his  teaching  began  to  seek 
the  source  of  that  speechless  but  all  conquering  form 


2S6 


of  life,  which  impressed  them  without  any  seeming- 
exertion.  Forty  of  his  pupils,  all  unknown  to  him- 
self, did  the  only  thing  in  the  direction  of  a reforma- 
tion they  could — they  met  in  a grove  and  signed  a 
covenant  to  abandon  idolatry.  This  movement  be- 
came known ; it  aroused  hostility,  and  the  school  was 
broken  up  and  several  of  the  young  men  were  impris- 
oned ; but  prisons  have  no  terror  to  those  whom  the 
truth  makes  free,  and  who  are  free  indeed.  Liberty 
of  conscience  soon  found  royal  favor,  and  an  edict 
stopped  the  threatened  persecution.  Twenty-five  of 
the  young  men  were  afterward  gathered  into  the  Kioto 
training  school,  and  fifteen  of  them  became  preachers 
of  the  gospel. 

No  history  of  the  work  of  foreign  missions  in  Japan 
can  be  written  without  the  life  story  of  its  most 
illustrious  native  convert,  the  late  lamented  Professor 
Joseph  Neeshima,  the  President  of  the  native  training 
school  of  the  American  Board  at  Kioto.  His  conver- 
sion and  life  read  like  the  romance  of  an  unbridled 
fancy.  He  had  one  of  those  thoughtful  minds  which 
had  an  element  of  prescience  in  it.  This  led  him  into 
forecastings  of  the  future  and  of  better  things  than  he 
or  his  countrymen  had  known.  Even  as  a young  boy 
in  Tokio  he  read  far  beyond  his  years,  and  thought, 
and  acquired,  but  without  any  accompanying  devo- 
tion. He  sought  in  the  ancient  Chinese  systems  of 
religion  and  ethics  what  his  soul  wanted,  an  ideal  of 
purity  not  attainable  and  greatness  at  least  inimitable. 
He  was  feeling  if  haply  he  might  find  God,  for  divine 
revelations  are  granted  only  to  seekers.  While  in  this 
hungry  and  unhappy  state  of  mind  a friend  gave  him 
a little  book,  called  the  “ Story  of  the  Bible,”  written 
by  a missionary  in  China,  and  being  familiar  wi^h  the 


287 


Chinese  language  he  could  read  it.  When  he  learned 
that  there  was  but  one  living  and  true  God,  who 
loves  and  rules  his  creatures  for  their  good,  he  said, 
“ This  is  the  God  for  whom  I have  been  looking,”  and 
from  out  of  his  painful  vagueness  of  mind  and  soul 
he  determined  to  go  at  all  pains  and  hazard  toward 
the  light. 

He  next  came  into  further  and  more  definite 
knowledge  through  the  study  of  a wonderful  tract 
by  Dr.  Bridgeman,  and  learning  that  its  author  came 
from  the  country  of  religion  and  civil  freedom,  he 
determined  that  he  would  not  rest  until  he  had  seen 
that  land.  At  this  time  to  go  beyond  Japan,  or  be- 
come a Christian,  was  death.  He  dared  to  risk  the 
consequences,  for  he  had  grasped  the  faith  that 
God  could  save  from  all  perils.  An  opportunity,  a 
desperate  one,  came  to  him,  by  which  he  was  able  to 
leave  Yokohama,  lying  flat  on  the  bottom  of  a sampan. 
The  boatman  for  some  cause  was  his  friend,  at  least, 
so  far  as  not  to  give  him  away.  To  the  challenge, 
“ Who  is  there  ?”  of  the  police,  as  the  boat  was  passing 
out  from  the  Bund,  the  boatman  replied,  “ It  is  I.’^ 
In  this  way  he  escaped  out  of  the  house  of  bondage. 
He  went  to  Hakodate,  and  became  the  teacher  of 
Father  Nicholi,  afterward  the  Russian  bishop.  He 
escaped  from  Hakodate,  and  in  an  American  schooner 
went  to  Shanghai,  China,  and  from  this,  by  a strange 
providence,  was  wafted  to  Boston,  on  a vessel  owned 
by  a most  remarkable  man  of  his  day  in  that  city, 
Alpheus  Hardy. 

He  was  engaged  first  as  a servant,  and  could  re- 
ceive no  money  or  wages  for  any  other  purpose.  He 
knew  enough  to  commit  his  life  to  God,  perhaps  more 
from  a sense  of  need  than  from  an  intelligent  faith. 


283 


He  had  the  right  by  birth  to  carry  two  swords,  one 
of  which  he  sold  in  Hong  Kong  and  purchased  a 
New  Testament,  and  this  was  a friend  sticking  closer 
than  a brother  on  his  long  and  lonely  journey.  In 
this  he  learned,  among  the  first  marvellous  truths,  the 
declaration  of  John  iii.  16,  and  this  fact,  lodged  in  a 
half  desparing  soul,  led  him  out  of  gratitude  to  prayer, 
for  as  yet  he  had  known  it  only  as  a duty.  H's 
prayer  is  pathetic  in  its  childlike  simplicity  and  trust- 
fulness, ‘‘O  Gcd!  please  don’t  cast  me  away  into  a 
miserable  condition.  Please  let  me  reach  my  great 
aim.” 

After  his  arrival  in  B jston,  he  was  kept  on  board 
the  vessel  ten  weeks  doing  the  most  burdensome  and 
menial  tasks,  but  was  constantly  under  the  eye  of  the 
captain,  who  observed  his  high  sense  of  duty,  and  also 
that  he  never  showed  discontent  or  bad  temper.  This 
led  him  to  speak  of  him  to  Mr.  Hardy,  who,  on  learn- 
ing of  his  good  qualities,  his  adventures  and  his 
purposes  in  life,  took  him  as  his  own  servant.  He 
soon  came  to  the  conviction  that  he  had  been  sent  to 
him  in  trust  from  God,  and  as  such  adopted  him  as  a 
member  of  his  family,  so  that  at  last  he  reached, 
through  loneliness,  desertion,  darkness,  moral  and 
physical,  through  storm  and  billow,  the  desired  haven 
on  another  continent. 

He  was  sent  to  Philips  Academy,  and  then  to 
Amherst  College,  and  then  to  Andover  Theological 
Seminary.  His  career  in  these  institutions  of  learn- 
ing was  in  harmony  with  what  his  adventurous,  yet 
faithful  life  had  been.  Studious,  reflecting,  patient  in 
labors,  respectful  to  superiors,  grateful  to  benefactors, 
he  was  ever  absorbed  in  hopes  for  the  salvation  of 
Japan. 


289 


He  served  the  Japanese  Embassy  as  interpreter 
while  a student,  and  by  this  means  learned  the  state 
and  prospects  of  his  country  under  its  changed  condi- 
tions, from  which  he  had  been  an  exile.  He  made 
many  valuable  friends  among  the  members  of  the 
Embassy,  who  were  of  great  service  to  him  when  he 
returned  to  his  work  in  his  own  country.  After  his 
college  studies  were  finished,  which  took  ten  years, 
he  was  ordained  at  Boston,  on  the  24th  of  September, 
1884.  He  was  present  at  a public  meeting  of  the 
American  Board,  and  made  an  appeal  for  his  destitute 
country,  and  that  he  might  have  the  means  for  the 
founding  of  an  institution  like  those  in  which  he  had 
been  educated.  . He  waited  a moment  after  uttering 
his  last  sentences,  as  if  thinking  whether  any  more 
could  be  said,  when  the  Hon.  Peter  Parker,  of  Wash- 
ington City,  arose  and  said  he  would  give  $1,000. 
Others  contributed  at  once  until  the  amount  reached 
$5,000. 

His  return  was  in  great  light  and  joy  as  contrasted 
with  his  departure,  which  was  amidit  darkless  and  fore- 
bodings. All  was  now  changed.  He  could  go  where  he 
pleased,  and  could  tell  the  wonderful  story,  and  relate 
all  his  experiences  in  learning  it.  He  began  telling 
it  out  of  a redeemed  heart  to  his  people.  At  the 
home  of  his  parents  in  Annaka,  the  largest  heathen 
temple  was  opened  for  his  use,  and  that  was  too  small 
to  hold  the  multitudes  which  came  to  hear  him.  In 
this  heathen  temple  trophies  of  the  cress  were  gath- 
ered, and  in  that  town  is  a memorial  of  his  shprt  but 
glorious  life  in  a large  self-supporting  church.  He 
was  directed  by  God  to  the  field  of  his  fu‘ure  labors. 

Kioto,  one  of  the  oldest,  most  historic  and  sacred 
cities  in  Japan,  has  been  the  home  and  throne  of 


290 


kings  for  ages.  It  is  in  sight  of  the  famous  and 
historic  Lake  Biwa,  where  the  fiercest  battles  of  the 
past  had  raged.  At  the  brain* centre  of  national  life 
through  the  old  centuries  of  Japanese  history,  a Chris- 
tian institution  was  founded.  Neeshima  secured, 
through  the  favor  of  friends  in  the  government,  out 
of  appreciation  of  his  genius  alone,  for  at  that  time 
there  was  no  real  sympathy  with  his  religion,  a • piece 
of  ground  adjoining  the  palace  garden,  and  there 
established  a boarding-school  or  seminary  for  girls,  in 
which  we  heard  recitations,  reading  and  music,  and 
some  of  the  gospel  hymns  sung  in  good  taste  and  with 
much  pathos,  by  the  native  girls. 

Near  by  is  a college  for  boys  and  young  men.  One 
of  the  buildings  is  a handsome  brick  structure,  with 
recitation,  library  and  society  rooms.  There  is  a 
chapel  or  church,  finished  tastefully  in  hard-wood, 
most  of  the  work  on  which,  no  doubt,  came  from  home. 
There  is  a dormitory  and  dining-room  arranged  accord- 
ing to  the  habits,  modes,  and  kind  of  eating,  peculiar 
to  the  country.  There  is,  on  the  same  ground,  a 
Theological  Seminary  in  which  are  consecrated  and 
learned  native  teachers  working  with  the  foreign 
teachers.  There  were  about  two  hundred  students  in 
the  English  and  scientific  course,  and  about  thirty  iu 
the  Theological  Seminary. 

The  influence  of  the  great  and  good  man,  Joseph 
Neeshima,  has  had  much  to  do  in  shaping  Japan  into 
its  present  mould,  so  hopefal  for  the  future.  He  was 
universally  respected ; men  of  State  took  counsel  of 
him,  confided  in  his  judgment,  revered  his  patriotism, 
observed  his  piety,  his  purity  and  trueness.  It  is 
said  that  Phidias  so  wrought  his  own  image  on  the 
shield  of  Minerva  that  it  could  be  turned  in  no  way 


291 


that  his  face  would  not  appear.  The  departed  Joseph 
Neeshima’s  moral  and  intellectual  image  ia  so  wrought 
into  the  new  life  of  Japan  that  it  will  never  appear 
even  in  history  wiihout  its  halo  about  it. 

In  these  early  years  there  were  wonderful  manifes- 
tations of  divine  power — scenes  that  were  thrilling, 
when  the  Holy  Ghost  opened  the  minds  of  men  in 
darkness  to  the  revelations  of  divine  truth.  In  the 
year  1872,  while  the  few  missionaries,  (of  whom  it 
might  have  been  said,  “what  are  these  among  so 
many  ?”)  were  engaging  in  the  services  of  the  week  of 
prayer,  the  Pentecostal  period  of  the  Church  during 
the  last  thirty  years,  an  English  meeting  was  held  in 
Yokohama,  and  a number  of  Japanese  students 
attended,  who  had  been  instructed  by  the  missionaries 
in  private  classes.  ‘ The  Scriptures  read  were  from 
the  Acts  of  the  Apostles,  and  contained  that  wonder- 
ful description  of  how  God  poured  out  his  Spirit  on 
the  nations  gathered  together.  As  the  natives  heard 
of  these  wondrous  manifestations  of  divine  power,  they 
fell  on  their  knees  and  prayed  God  to  pour  out  his 
Spirit  in  like  manner  on  Japan.  These  prayers  were 
so  earnest  and  importunate  that  the  English  and 
American  missionaries  were  awe-stricken.  They  said 
to  each  other,  “ Did  you  ever  hear  any  thing  like 
this?”  Christian  English  and  American  sailors, 
captains,  physicians,  scholars  and  travellers  said, 
“ These  prayers  of  the  Japanese  take  the  heart  out  of 
us.”  The  impulse  of  those  simple,  trustful  and  ear- 
nest native  prayers  led  to  the  organization  of  a 
church  in  March,  1872,  at  Yokohama,  with  a mem- 
bership of  twelve. 

This  first  Protestant  church  at  Yokohama  held  its 
fifteenth  anniversary  in  1887.  These  exercises  greatly 


292 


interested  the  native  population.  It  was  attended  b7 
all  classes,  and  the  progress  was  appreciated.  The 
contrast  between  its  fifteenth  anniversary  and  its 
beginning  was  so  great  that  it  could  only  be  said, 
What  wonders  hath  God  wrought  in  the  earth ! In 
the  beginning  there  was  not  only  no  sympathy  with 
the  movement,  but  the  spectres  of  death  overshadowed 
it,  for  then  a public  avowal  of  Christianity  involved 
danger  and  death.  Now  Christianity  is  tolerated  by 
the  most  bigoted,  is  protected  by  the  government,  is 
respected  by  the  people,  and  is  revered  and  loved  by 
multitudes  who  would  suffer  death  rather  than  give  it 
up.  There  are  at  least  twenty  thousand  church  mem- 
bers, more  than  two  hundred  churches,  nearly  three 
hundred  pastors  and  evangelists,  and  about  two 
hundred  natives  studying  for  the,  ministry,  and  of  this 
first  congregation,  which  came  out  of  the  prayers  of 
the  Christian  Japanese,  as  Pentecost  came  out  of  the 
prayers  of  the  one  hundred  and  twenty  of  the  upper 
room  in  Jerusalem,  nine  churches  have  grown.  Fif- 
teen preachers  and  evangelists  have  been  sent  forth 
from  this  centre  of  spiritual  power. 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

TOKIO,  THE  CAPITAL  OF  JA  PAN. 

WO  hours  and  a half  by  rail  from  Yokohama  is 


this  great  city,  about  as  large  as  Philadelphia, 
and  the  capital  of  this  re-born  nation.  The  road  runs 
through  a level  country,  which  has  been  mostly  re- 
claimed from  the  sea,  except  one  small  range  of  hills. 
Rice  fields  abound,  and  also  vegetable  gardens ; all 
the  arable  land  of  Japan  presents  this  garden-like  ap- 


293 


pearance.  The  route  lies  through  Kanazawa,  which 
in  America  would  be  called  “string  town.”  It  has 
only  one  street,  which  is  a part  of  the  Tokaido.  The 
only  thing  that  *keeps  it  from  outright  oblivion  is  the 
fact  that  it  lives,  in  modern  history,  as  the  place  ori- 
ginally agreed  on  as  the  treaty  port ; but  this  was  a 
temporary  distinction,  for  the  whole  busiuess  was 
soon  after  transferred  to  Yokohama.  Near  Omon  the 
circling  railroad  disclosed  a shell  bed  similar  to  those 
about  St.  Augustine,  Florida,  and  in  some  parts  of 
New  England.  There  are  al«o  pottery  remains  elabor- 
ated in  the  highest  art  of  former  times.  Implements 
of  deer  horns  are  found,  bones  of  monkeys  and  men, 
the  dog  and  wolf  and  other  remains  of  similar  life. 

On  a hill  can  be  seen  a remarkable  Buddhist  temple 
dedicated  to  the  worship  of  the  most  illustrious  priest 
of  his  age,  Nichiren,  the  founder  of  a famous  sect, 
whose  followers  have  given  him  the  title  of  sainthood 
for  six  hundred  years.  The  spot  where  he  died  in  the 
temple  grounds  is  made  monumental  by  the  erection 
of  a large  circular  tower,  about  fifty  feet  in  diameter, 
etanding  on  a stone  base,  formed  of  lotus  leaves  cut 
in  grey  stone.  Within  is  a table  in  the  form  of  a 
lotus  flower  resting' on  the  backs  of  eight  large  tor- 
toises. There  is  a glass  jar,  which  contains  the 
sainted  dust  and  a tooth  on  which  the  aged  saint 
“ crunched  his  dodger,”  and  from  the  evidence  of  the 
wear  displayed,  his  stomach  had  no  occasion  to  re- 
proach it  for  idleness.  All  the  surroundings  are 
weird  with  age  and  yet  buoyant  with  youth. 

There  are  many  shrines,  one  containing  the  figures 
of  seven  women  ; another,  which  has  above  the  altar 
many  images  of  varied  size  and  appearance,  is  dedicated 
to  a woman  called  Kishimojin,  the  mother  of  demons. 


294 


who  was  a born  cannibal.  She  was  the  mother  of  five 
hundred  children  at  one  time,  whether  any  of  them 
got  away  at  birth  and  were  not  counted  is  not  in- 
scribed on  the  shrine.  It  wonld  have  been  well  for 
them  if  they  had,  for  the  old  lady,  as  the  record  goes, 
was  compelled  to  eat  one  of  them  whenever  she  was 
hungry.  But  through  the  intervention  of  Buddha  she 
was  finally  relieved  from  the  horror  of  this  bill  of  fare. 
Out  of  gratitude  she  embraced  the  doctrines  of  Buddha 
and  became  noted  for  her  good  deeds  and  pious  acts. 
She  was  deified  and  worshipped  by  the  women  as  their 
friend  and  guardian  in  the  perils  of  child-birth. 

The  capital  of  the  Japanese  Empire  is  a spot  where 
the  threads  of  much  history  find  their  centre ; it  is  a 
spindle  on  which  the  years  have  wound  them,  and  the 
present,  as  a cycling  past,  is  busy  reeling  them  off  for 
its  use.  It  stands  on  a plain  with  little  to  break  the 
outline  of  the  horizon  except  the  line  of  mountains  on 
which  sits  Fugi,  the  glistening  dome.  In  the  portion 
of  the  city  called  Shiro  (castle)  are  the  residence  of 
the  Mikado  and  the  imperial  gardens,  formerly  occu- 
pied by  the  Shoguns  and  the  Daimios,  with  their  re- 
tainers. It  is  situated  in  the  centre  of  the  city,  sur- 
rounded by  embankments  which  are  planted  with 
trees  and  faced  with  massive  stones  receding  from  the 
perpendicular  base.  It  would  have  no  defensive 
strength  now  except  in  the  heavy  embankment  of  clay 
behind  it.  There  is  a wide  shallow  moat  filled  with 
water,  having  no  current,  and  in  summer  it  is  filled 
with  the  lotus,  abounding  with  fragrance  and  beauty. 
This  plant  is  also  an  article  of  food  to  the  natives;  and 
so  there  are  veritable  “ Lotus  Eaters.”  The  gates  to 
this  famous  place  have  been  pulled  down,  and  little  is 
left  but  the  wrecks  of  things  that  were. 


295 


Tokio  is  not  one  of  the  ancient  cities  of  Japan,  for 
its  history  only  goes  back  to  1600.  It  became  re- 
nowned in  1604,  when  lye-yasu,  the  first  Shogun  of 
the  Tokugawa  family,  made  it  his  capital,  and  it  was 
enriched  and  beautified  by  his  grandson,  lyemitsu. 
It  did  not  change  much  afterwards  until  1868,  when  it 
was  made  the  capital  of  the  Mikado,  after  the  Sho- 
gunate  had  been  overthrown.  Tokio  is  a wooden  city, 
acres  of  which  burn  up  every  year.  Most  of  its 
houses  are  small,  and  one-storied.  The  city  is  thus 
ever  ready  to  welcome  to  its  bosom  all  vagrant  sparks. 
Rivers  and  canals  traverse  it  at  almost  every  angle, 
occupying  a considerable  portion  of  the  city,  and,  ex- 
cept as  cleaned  out  by  the  tides  or  typhoons,  are 
indescribably  filthy,  and  in  summer  festering  in 
tropical  heats.  The  European  quarter  is  called  Tsukij i, 
and  is  interesting  on  account  of  its  people  and  the 
evidences  of  their  culture  in  finer  homes,  appoint- 
ments and  surroundings  than  the  native  quarter.  In 
this  part  of  the  city  is  the  theological  school  of  the 
United  Church  of  Japan,  in  which  we  had  the 
pleasure  of  meeting  several  members  of  the  Faculty. 
Among  them  Dr.  Imbrie,  Revs.  Messrs.  Ballagh, 
Wyckoff  and  T.  M.  McNair,  and  also  some  of  the 
native  Professors. 

Amidst  the  round  of  heathen  temples  in  Tokio 
a few  only  possess  interest,  for  they  are  in  most 
respects  only  copies  of  each  other.  Shiba  is  one 
the  most  noted.  It  is  situated  in  a garden,  with 
walks  well  laid  out  through  a forest  of  beautiful  trees, 
mostly  natives  of  the  soil,  through  which  the  shadows 
of  the  great  vultures  flit  as  they  swoop  over  their  tops, 
uttering  a strange  note  not  at  all  unmusical.  In  this 
forest  are  patches  of  gardens,  filled  with  choicest  fruits 


296 


and  flowers,  in  which  the  priests  are  seen  in  their 
sacredotal  robes.  But  to  most  people  the  chief  attrac- 
tion of  Shiba  is  its  temple  and  tomb,  the  entrance  to 
which  is  through  a gateway  of  carved  woodwork  in 
style  peculiar  to  the  country.  Around  the  enclosure 
are  long  rows  of  what  are  called  lanterns,  about  six 
feet  high,  and  made  of  stone,  looking  like  an  Ameri- 
can terra-cotta  chimney  top.  This  is  the  ideal  of  all 
temple  lanterns.  These  are  the  offerings  to  the  dead 
by  some  of  their  vassals,  “ Fudai  Daimics,”  who  are 
not  the  highest.  Another,  “ Kokushiu  Daimios,”  are 
presented  with  bronze  lanterns,  very  costly  but  of  the 
same  general  pattern. 

Of  temples  within  the  great  enclosure  the  most 
celebrated  is  Zozoji.  Here  may  be  seen  the  magnifi- 
cent shrines  of  the  Shoguns.  It  was  the  habit  to  bury 
these  oflacials  alternately  at  Shiba  and  Uyeno.  Seven 
lie  at  the  former,  and  five  at  the  latter.  lye-yasu  and 
lyemitsu,  the  first  and  third  princes  of  the  line,  are 
gorgeously  entombed  at  Nikko.  In  this  temple  are 
remarkable  specimens  of  lacquer  work,  and  the  wall 
paintings  are  by  the  celebrated  old  masters,  which,  as 
usual,  awaken  great  enthusiasm  in  lovers  of  art,  the 
general  impression  being  that  such  productions  have 
never  been  equalled,  and  that  it  is  no  use  for  living 
man  to  try.  The  truth  is  the  grand  old  masters  have 
been  beaten  thousands  of  times,  so  that  many  of  them 
are  monumental  frauds  as  well  in  Japan  as  every- 
where else.  What  old  masters  in  any  country  ever 
painted  the  leg  of  a horse  as  it  is  ? It  is  as  clumsy 
in  their  hands  as  a gatepost.  It  requires  for  its  pro- 
per execution  the  highest  anatomical  knowledge,  which 
the  artists  never  possessed.  There  are  many  objects 
attractive  to  those  who  adore  old  things,  but  to  the 


297 


man  who  lives  in  the  present  and  future  they  are  of 
little  concern. 

There  is  a large  stone  tower  at  the  end  of  the  city 
race-course,  with  one  of  the  peculiar  lanterns  already 
described  at  the  top,  in  which  a light  burns  con- 
tinually at  night  in  honor  of  the  soldiers  slain  in  the 
civil  wars.  At  this  point  there  is  one  of  the  finest 
views  possible.  Oyama  and  the  Hakone  range  are 
well  defined,  and  the  monumental  mount  of  the  em- 
pire, though  far  away,  glistens  in  the  last  rays  of^ 
an  evening  sunlight. 

There  is  another  temple  which  arrests  the  attention 
as  one  out  of  the  ordinary  category,  Asakusa.  This 
spacious  metropolitan  of  the  Eastern  branch  of  the 
Monto  Sect,  is  situated  in  Ki  Matsu  Kiyo-cho,  in 
large  grounds  of  its  ovn,  and  is  entered  by  two  gates. 
This  building  was  founded  in  1757.  The  brackets 
supporting  the  roof  of  the  porch  are  specimens  of 
fine  carving,  the  designs  being  chrysanthemum  flowers 
and  leaves.  There  are  also  some  good  specimens  of 
the  everlasting  dragon  over  the  screen  which  sepa- 
rates the  chancel  and  its  side  chapels  from  the  rare 
and  massive  open  work;  gilded  carvings  represent 
Phoenixes,  the  largest  being  twelve  feet  in  length  and 
four  in  height.  Plainness  characterizes  the  rest  of 
the  building.  On  the  gilded  background  of  the  wall, 
beside  the  altar,  are  to  be  seen  the  images  of  several 
Buddhist  saints.  This  temple,  as  it  now  exists,  is 
approached  through  a long  row  of  little  brick  toy 
shops,  the  only  modern  things  on  this  side  of  the 
city.  This  entrance  is  crowded  with  worshippers, 
loafers  and  idle  women.  There  is  a park  full  of 
shows,  with  theatrical  performances,  monkey  antics 
and  the  howling  of  wild  beasts.  The  two-storied  gate 


298 


in  front  of  the  temple  is  built  of  red  wood,  and  is 
more  massive  than  beautiful,  on  either  side  of  which 
are  the  images  of  the  two  Deva  kings,  or  sentinel 
gods.  At  the  left,  before  passing  through  the  gate, 
is  a popular  shrine  of  Fudo,  and  further  on,  in  the 
same  direction,  is  another  small  shrine,  near  which 
are  two  stone  images  of  Amaida  more  than  two  hun- 
dred years  old,  and  surrounded  by  a boat-shaped 
halo.  There  is  a bronze,  and  partially  gilt,  image, 
surrounded  by  smaller  ones,  which  receive  the  offer- 
ings of  the  faithful  from  time  to  time.  Upon  the  left 
above,  three  posts  with  prayer  wheels  are  attached, 
used  in  connection  with  the  mystic  doctrine  of  the 
Tendi  and  Shingon  sects. 

There  is  an  image  sitting  in  the  open  court,  with  a 
pink  and  yellow  cloth  bib  around  his  neck,  and  badly 
rubbed,  which  represents  Bindzuru,  the  helper  of  the 
sick,  who  was  originally  a retainer  of  King  Udayana. 
On  his  becoming  an  ardent  follower  of  the  Buddha,, 
he  was  allowed  to  take  the  vows ; but  he  could  not 
shut  his  eyes  to  female  beauty,  and  what  was  worse, 
violated  his  chastity  by  remarking  on  the  beauty  of  a 
woman,  and  was  expelled  from  the  sect. 

Buddha  was  sorry  for  him,  and  conferred  on  him,  at 
his  special  request,  the  power  of  curing  all  human  ills. 
As  we  stood  before  the  image,  an  old  woman  was 
trying  the  power  of  this  god.  She  rubbed  the  idol  at 
whatever  point  her  own  old  body  was  distressed,  and 
then  rubbed  herself.  After  stroking  the  idol  on  the 
back,  she  then  rubbed  herself.  Then  she  tried  him 
on  the  hip  and  transferred  his  healing  by  rubbing 
herself  at  this  joint.  The  fact  was  evident  that  she 
was  pretty  generally  out  of  tune  from  the  number  of 
places  to  which  she  applied  the  healing  influence. 


299 


Prudence  suggested  that  she  should  be  left  to  herself 
in  her  healing  performances. 

At  a shrine  in  front  of  the  great  altar  was  a woman 
going  through  her  devotions,  and  she  was  taking  her 
time  to  it.  She  had  a baby  tied  to  her  back,  or  rather 
an  overcoat  buttoned  around  herself  and  the  young 
one.  The  youngster  was  tired  of  the  length  of  her 
performances,  and  was  endeavoring  to  bring  her  to 
time  by  pulling  her  back  hair  and  howling  out  of 
pure  sinfulness.  The  mother  was  too  much  absorbed 
in  her  prayers  to  give  attention  to  the  disturber  of  her 
peace,  but  the  probabilities  are  “ seven  to  one”  that 
at  some  point  of  bodily  exposure  his  color  was  raised 
when  she  got  him  home. 

These  passing  glances  will  give  a general  idea  of  the 
city  and  its  heathenism.  It  may  be  interesting  to 
give  an  account  of  its  institutions  of  Christian  learn- 
ing. There  will  be  no  progress  through  the  existing 
Shintoism  and  Buddhism — there  has  been  none  through 
centuries,  because  “the  snap”  has  gone  out  of  them. 
The  only  remaining  source  for  their  development  is 
Christian  learning.  In  exact  proportion  as  they 
adopt  it,  they  will  rise,  because  through  it  they  have 
already  made  creditable  progress. 

The  Graham  Female  Seminary  was  under  the  care 
of  the  Woman’s  Foreign  Missionary  Society  in  New 
York  City.  Miss  Leete  was  the  Principal,  with  Misses 
Bigelow  and  Reed  as  assistants.  It  had  one  hundred 
and  thirty-two  pupils,  and  had  been  obliged  to  turn 
one  hundred  away,  who  sought  its  advantages,  because 
there  was  not  room  for  them.  This  school,  like  the 
dews  cf  Hermon,  is  a continued  blessing  and  a source 
of  hope  to  the  motherhood  of  Japan.  Most  of  the 
pupih  embrace  Christianity  before  they  leave  it,  so 


300 


that  it  is  an  efficient  agent  in  home  missionary  work. 
The  second  of  these  fountains  opened  to  purify  home 
life  is  the  Bancho  School,  (since  united  with  Graham 
Seminary,)  under  the  guardianship  of  the  Woman's 
Foreign  Missionary  Society  in  Philadelphia.  The 
principal  was  Mrs.  True.  The  Misses  Davis,  Rose, 
Ballagh  and  Milliken,  the  latter  the  daughter  of  Rev. 
S.  J.  Milliken,  of  Philadelphia,  are  teachers.  There 
Dr.  Light  has  also  a corps  of  Japanese  teachers, 
three  hundred  pupils  and  eighty  boarders.  The 
course  of  study  is  in  Japanese,  Chinese  and  Enghsh, 
together  with  such  practical  education  as  will  fit  these 
women  ffir  the  dutios  of  home  and  families.  This 
school  has,  with  the  others,  a blessed  record  in  the 
number  of  the  conversions  made,  nearly  all  of  the 
advanced  scholars  being  confessing  Christians. 

There  is  a Sabbath-school  connected  with  this  insti- 
tution, to  which  most  of  the  scholars  come  of  their 
own  choice,  and  some  of  the  older  ones  assist  in  six 
outside  Sabbath  schools.  This  school  has  also  rejected 
hundreds  of  applicants  because  of  inadequate  accom- 
modations. The  fact  is  apparent  to  every  thoughtful 
observer,  that  the  minds  and  hearts  of  the  J apanese 
are  set  toward  Christian  culture,  and  the  only  obstacle 
to  the  coming  of  this  nation  into  the  very  front  of 
Christian  progress  is  the  want  of  Christian  schools  and 
teachers.  All  these  schools  have  pupils  from  the 
ranks  of  the  nobility,  but  the  greater  number  are 
from  the  middle  classes — the  best  in  any  country. 

The  Bancho  School  has  twelve  scholarships  sup- 
ported by  missionary  societies  in  America,  but  a large 
class  support  themselves  by  their  own  efforts  ; some  by 
teaching,  and  others  by  sewing,  cooking,  &c.,  and  the 
remainder  pay  the  fiill  tuition.  The  income  last  year 


301 


^was  nearly  four  thousand  dollars,  paying  the  running 
expenses  and  the  salaries  of  the  Japanese  teachers. 

In  another  part  of  the  city,  and  on  an  elevated 
plateau,  is  also  a school  for  girls  under  the  care  of 
Miss  C.  T.  Alexander,  assisted  by  Miss  A.  R.  West, 
daughter  of  Rev,  W.  A.  West,  of  Harrfeburg,  Pa., 
and  Miss  E.  W.  Case,  a member  of  the  Broad  and 
Oxfoid  Street  church,  in  Philadelphia,  Pa.  The 
latter  has  recently  been  placed  in  charge  of  an  im- 
portant work  in  Yokohama.  This  school  is  young 
but  prosperous,  numbering  thirty-three  scholars,  and 
is  steadily  increasing.  It  was  founded  by,  and  is 
under  the  direction  of,  Mr.  Okami.  Bible  lessons 
are  daily  taught.  These  ladies  have  also  the  super- 
vision of  other  schools  and  Bible  classes,  and  fifty-one 
Japanese  ladies  attend  the  weekly  meetings.  There 
is  a school  for  educating  and  training  Bible  readers, 
under  the  care  of  the  New  York  Missionary  Society, 
of  which  Miss  Kate  C.  Youngman  is  the  teacher,  and 
whose  labors  were  greatly  blessed  in  mission  work  in 
the  country.  This  will  give  the  reader  some  idea  of 
the  educational  work  for  the  female  of  Japan. 

The  work  with  young  men  in  Tokio  is  not  less 
progressive  or  efficient  than  the  work  for  young 
women.  The  College  and  Theological  Seminary  are 
the  brain  centres  of  missionary  influence.  In  the 
prospective  union,  so  hopeful  for  future  good  in  the 
Christianizing  of  Japan,  the  initiatorv  step  was  the 
uniting  of  the  educational  institutions  of  the  Re- 
formed (Dutch)  and  Presbyterians.  The  new  organi- 
zation is  called  Meiji  Gaku.  The  College  buildings 
are  located  on  a hill  in  a suburb  commanding  a 
view  of  the  greater  part  of  Tokio,  and  in  a healthy 
position  and  one  of  extreme  beauty.  On  one  side  is 


302 


a grove  of  bamboos,  a cbaracteristic  and  beautiful 
feature  of  this  miniature  country.  There  are  eight 
acres  of  ground  on  which  are  two  very  handsome 
buildings.  These  barely  meet  the  necessities  of  the 
case  at  present,  and  there  ought  to  be  one  or  two 
more  buildings  erected  at  once.  There  is  not  a spot 
in  all  the  mission  world  where  memorial  buildings  to 
perpetuate  the  names  of  loved  and  departed  friends 
would  serve  a better  purpose.  How  much  more 
rational  and  Christian  such  monuments  would  be  than 
the  dumb,  senseless  graveyard  displays,  which  are 
often  in  bad  taste,  and  the  inscriptions  upon  them  far 
worse  in  the  matter  of  truthfulness,  love  having 
written  according  to  its  estimate  of  loss  what  the 
world  does  not  readily  endorse.  In  these  institutional 
memorials  departed  life  is  duly  appreciated  on  account 
of  what  it  does  for  the  living.  Of  the  College  build- 
ings, one  was  erected  by  the  Reformed  Church,  and 
the  other  by  the  Presbyterians.  Sandham  Hall  is 
used  for  educational  purposes,  and  the  other,  Hepburn 
Hall,  for  a dormitory. 

In  the  contributions  to  the  endowment  of  the  dor^ 
mitory  may  be  seen  some  glints  of  benevolence  in  the 
lives  of  missionaries  not  known  to  the  Church  at  nome. 
where  most  good  deeds  are  apt  to  get  into  the  news- 
papers. In  the  list  of  contributions  were  one  thou- 
sand dollars  from  Rev.  George  Wm.  Knox,  money 
which  he  had  made  in  extra  service  rendered  to  the 
Japanese  Imperial  University.  It  is,  also,  a pleasure 
to  record  that  a citizen  of  Philadelphia,  a liberal 
Presbyterian,  appears  in  a gift  of  $3,000  to  this  good 
work,  and  another  gift  in  memoriam  of  $5,000  by 
Mrs.  G.  A.  Sandham,  of  New  York. 

Most  of  the  classes  were  seen  and  heard  by  us  in 


303 


recitation^  and  all  were  characterized  by  that  intense 
earnestness  only  seen  in  Japan.  Military  drill,  nnder 
direction  of  Mr.  Uchida,  is  a part  of  the  round  of 
duty,  which  improves  the  appearance  of  the  students, 
cultivates  habits  of  precision  and  neatness,  develops 
instant  recognition  of  authority,  and  serves  to  prepare 
them  for  the  national  struggles  which  may  yet  demand 
their  service  in  behalf  of  liberty  and  country.  In 
the  theological  department  are  Professors  Amerman, 
Knox,  Waddell,  Imbrie,  Ibuka,  Miller,  Oghimi  and 
Verbeck.  In  the  Academic  department  are  Pro- 
fessors John  C.  Ballagh,  Wyckoff,  McCauley,  Harris, 
McNair,  Ishimotoi  Hattori,  Suzuki,  Washimoto,  lua- 
moto,  and  Mrs.  and  Miss  Ballagh.  Dr.  Hepburn  is 
President. 

The  institution  has  the  favor  of  the  Japanese  gov- 
ernment, and  it  has  so  arranged  its  course  that 
students  can  enter  directly  into  the  Imperial  Univer- 
sity in  the  departments  of  literature  and  law.  The 
religious  condition  of  the  institution  is  good.  The 
number  of  students  is  about  two  hundred,  sixty  of 
whom  are  Christians.  When  sceptics  consider  the 
fruit  of  foreign  missionary  work  already  apparent  in 
Tokio,  they  will  be  staggered,  unless  their  prejudices, 
have  saturated  them  with  stupidity. 

There  are,  of  all  Protestant  denominations,  forty- 
five  churches  of  Presbyterians  alone,  for  this  is  their 
stronghold,  as  Kioto  is  that  of  the  Congregationalists. 
In  the  North  there  are  nineteen  churches,  and  when 
we  say  Presbyterians  we  mean  the  present  “ Church 
of  Christ  in  Japan,”  formed  of  those  who  possess  a 
representative  form  of  government.  That  there  may 
be  no  room  for  the  shadow  of  doubt  on  the  subject  the 
names  of  the  churches,  pastors  and  membership  will 
be  given : 


304 


Name  of  Church. 

Shiusakaye 

Ushigome 

Sbiba 

Sukiyabashi 

Eyogaku 

Shitaya 

Kajimachi 

HoDgo 

Nihonbashi 

Dai  Machi 

A^akusa 

Sakurada 

Bancho . 

Daikucho 

Meisei 

Akasaka 

Hocjo 

Nakabashi 

Shinagawa 


Pastors. 

Mr.  Y.  lihiwara. 

Mr.  Hattori 

.Mi%  Wada 

■Mr.  Tamnra 

•Mr.  Miara 

Mr.  Uemnra 

Mr.  Maki 

Mr.  R Ishiwara. 
Mr.  Kitahara 


Dr.  Imb'rie*. 


Mr.  Uemnra 

Dr.  Thompson*. 

Mr.  Ogawa 

Mr.  Lindsay*.... 
Mr.  Shinowara... 
Mr.  Davidson*.. 


Members. 

300 

300 

280 

240 

220 

200 

170 

160 

160 

150 

150 

140 

130 

no 

100 

90 

80 

70 

60 


The  total  chnrch  membership  is  abont  3,000. 

Number  of  Protestant  churches  of  all  denominations  in 
Tokio,  45.  ' 

* Acting  pastor. 


Lest  the  patience  of  our  readers  should  become 
weary,  only  two  cr  three  more  examples  of  the  work 
done  will  be  given,  in  order  to  show  the  readiness 
and  eagerness  of  the  people  to  receive  the  truth,  the 
progress  which  it  is  making,  and  the  estimation  in 
which  the  missionaries  are  held  by  the  people.  The 
following  incident  will  touch  sympathetic  hearts  when 
the  fact  is  known  that  the  one  spoken  of  did  his  work 
under  distressing  domestic  affliction  and  bodily  ail- 
ments, and  has  been  obliged  to  give  it  up  and  return 
to  America  under  the  shadow  of  hopeless  blindness. 
The  Rev.  T.  C.  Winn  went  to  Kanazawa,  on  the  west 
coast  of  Japan;  here  he  buried  a child  and  was  him- 


305 


self  prostrated  witli  fever,  but  be  would  not  give  up 
bis  work.  He  was  afterwards  joined  by  the  Rev. 
G.  R.  Porter  and  sister,  and  by  their  united  labors 
it  has  become  a model  mission..  When  Mr.  Winn, 
who  had  endured  so  much  for  this  people,  had 
to  part  from  them  he  did  not  find  them  destitute  of 
sympathy  and  appreciation,  but  giving  such  expres- 
sions of  personal  interest  as  must  have  sent  rays  of 
sunshine  through  his  grief-stricken  heart.  The  Gov- 
ernor gave  him  a farewell  entertainment,  in  which 
other  leading  officials  participated,  who  properly 
esteemed  his  life  and  labors.  It  was  given  in  a 
public  park,  and  the  most  complimentary  attentions 
were  shown  him  and  his  family.  He  parted  from  this 
people  as  Paul  did  from  the  elders  .of  Epbesus,  when 
they  ^ept  most  of  all  because  they  should  see  his  face 
no  more. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Porter,  with  their  assistants,  have 
carried  on  the  work  with  great  success.  The  General 
in  command  of  the  troops  stationed  here  sends  his 
private  carriage  for  their  use ; one  of  his  sons  is  in  the 
mission  school  and  has  expressed  his  desire  to  be 
taught  Christianity,  and  also  his  family  with  him.  A 
Christian  teacher  has  been  secured  for  the  government 
school  by  Rev.  Mr.  Porter  at  the  request  of  the 
officials.  There  are  two  churches,  three  boy’s  schools, 
a girl’s  school  and  a kindergarten. 

Another  of  these  remarkable  religious  movements 
ii  found  in  Kochi,  Tosa.  The  people  here  were  rebels 
against  the  Sliogunate  rule,  and  one  of  the  leading 
clans  in  the  revolution  was  in  this  island.  -Count 
Itagaki  made  a trip  to  Europe  and  became  interested 
in  its  Christian  civilization,  and  upon  his  return  he 
invited  Dr.  Verbeck  and  Mr.  Thompson  to  come  to 


306 


Koclii  to  found  a mission  there,  as  purely  a civilizing 
movement.  They  accepted  his  invitation,  and  "when 
they  appeared  he  showed  them  great  attention  and 
introduced  them  to  his  friends.  People  came  together 
in  large  numbers  to  hear  the  gospel,  and  the  leading 
men  were  interested.  This  was  in  1884.  The  follow- 
ing May  a church  was  organized  with  twenty-two 
members.  With  the  aid  of  Japanese  helpers  the 
work  advanced;  large  meetings  were  held  with  an 
attendance  of  about  seven  hundred  people.  Within 
a year  the  membership  numbered  one  hundred,  and 
the  mission  was  virtually  self-supporting  almost  from 
the  start. 

In  the  summer  of  1886  the  cholera  raged  and 
broke  up  the  public  meetings,  but  little  private  gath- 
erings were  held  from  house  to  house.  In  the  fall 
the  religious  interest  revived,  and  there  were  seventy 
candidates  ready  for  baptism,  twenty  of  them  being 
from  a village  near  the  city,  where  there  were  two 
native  Christian  private  workers,  but  holding  no 
public  services.  During  the  year  ending  with  1887, 
one  hundred  and  sixty- one  united  with  the  church. 
There  is  now  a congregation  of  three  hundred  mem- 
bers, consisting  of  the  leading  men  of  the  place  and 
ether  classes.  A church  has  been  built  costing  $1,200, 
seating  about  six  hundred  people,  and  only  $250 
being  raised  outside  this  native  congregation. 

Of  the  people  in  the  little  village  of  which  mention 
has  been  made,  there  were  during  our  visit  seventy 
candidates  awaiting  baptism.  The  Rev.  Mr.  McAlpine 
was  at  the  founding  of  the  work  and  accomplished 
much,  but  it  is  at  present  carried  on  by  Rev.  R.  B. 
Grinnen,  as  pastor,  and  Rev.  B.  P.  Junkin,  who  con- 
ducts the  school,  which  is  under  direct  Christian  in- 


307 


fluence,  and  has  over  one  hundred  boys  in  training. 
Both  of  these  workers  are  from  the  Presbyterian 
Church  South,  but  are  now  connected  with  the  United 
Church  of  Christ  in  Japan. 

There  are  some  exceedingly  interesting  facts  which 
may  be  stated  in  connection  with  the  conversion  of 
a number  of  the  leading  members  of  this  church. 
One  was  baptized  in  May,  a member  of  the  local 
Assembly,  whose  family  cor  sisted  of  a wife,  two  chil- 
dren, a nephew  and  mother — a hopeless  lot  to  all 
appearances.  He  had  been  educated  in  hatred  to  the 
foreigner  and  his  religion,  and  his  heathen  prejudices 
were  deeply  rooted.  But  when  he  first  heard  the 
gospel  preached,  he  said:  “Would  it  not  be  strange 
if  I should  become  a Christian ! ” His  mother  hated 
with  vindictiveness  the  very  name  of  Christianity, 
and  would  not  permit  any  member  of  the  family  to 
speak  of  it  or  attend  its  services.  This  man,  who  had 
suggested  the  novelty  of  his  becoming  a Christian, 
was  converted,  and  afterwards  began  earnestly  pray- 
ing for  his  family.  He  went  into  the  country  with 
his  heart  burdened,  and  prayed  more  than  usual. 
Upon  his  return,  to  his  utter  surprise,  his  mother 
asked  him  about  Christianity,  and  they  talked  over  it 
until  late  at  night  without  the  slightest  indication 
of  any  special  interest  on  her  part.  Next  morning, 
however,  she  threw  away  her  idols  and  insisted  on  the 
whole  family  attending  church.  As  the  result  of  her 
change,  they  all  confessed  the  Lord  as  their  Saviour 
and  were  baptized. 

Another  leading  man  was  converted  whose  wife 
hated  Christianity.  She  was  a devout  Shintoist  and 
worshipped  her  idols  in  her  yard.  She  resisted  even 
the  thought  of  any  thing  else  until  one  morning  she 


308 


arose  earlier  than  the  rest  of  the  family  and  destroyed 
her  idols  and  stripped  the  shrine,  and  then  began  the 
Christian  life.  Most  of  the  work  in  this  church  has 
been  done  by  Rev.  Yama  Moto,  now  pastor  in  Yoko- 
hama. 

This  account  of  the  progress  of  Chris danity  in 
Japan  would  lack  a convincing  argument  of  its  gen- 
uineness if  nothing  were  said  of  the  liberality  of  ihe 
people  in  supporting  the  gospel.  The  rule  for  the 
distribution  of  funds  in  the  Union  Church  for  mission- 
ary stations  is  that  for  every  dollar  raised  by  the 
people,  the  Boards  represented  in  the  Church  of 
Christ  in  Japan  give  four.  But  the  people  them- 
selves, in  many  places,  not  only  sustain  their  own 
churches  but  carry  on  school  and  mission  work. 

A remarkable  case  of  conversion  and  personal 
benevolence  occurred  in  the  church  of  Mishima. 
Nanajima  several  years  had  been  a hearer  of  the 
gospel,  but  was  a large  manufacturer  of  the  principal 
intoxicating  drink  in  Japan,  which  is  made  of  rice, 
and  on  this  account  did  not  feel  at  liberty  to  present 
himself  for  church  membership.  But  early  in  1886 
he  gave  up  the  business,  and  with  all  his  family  began 
the  observance  of  the  Sabbath.  Through  the  in- 
fluence of  Rev.  I.  U.  Ballagh  and  his  native  Christian 
friends,  he  and  his  family,  sixteen  in  number,  received 
Christian  baptism.  After  his  entrance  into  the  church 
the  question  came  up  as  to  the  disposal  of  his  distil- 
lery, as  to  whether  it  would  be  right  to  advertise  it 
and  sell  it  intact.  He  again  took  the  advice  of  his 
Christian  friends  and  gave  the  storehouse  and  land 
for  a church  and  school  for  girls,  the  value  of  the 
whole  being  6,000  Mexican  yen,  or  dollars,  the 
denomination  of  the  money  of  the  empire.  This  the^ 


309 


few  Christians  believed  to  be  the  answer  to  their 
prayers  for  a church  and  school,  and  are  making 
heroic  efforts  to  sustain  them. 

The  Japanese  are  poor ; they  have  no  wealth  to  be 
compared  with  the  Chinese,  and  in  America  any  of 
the  settled  Territories  could  show  as  much  wealth  as 
the  best  parts  of  this  empire.  The  people,  under  the 
new  government,  are  getting  better  off,  and  the  liber- 
ality of  Christians  is  fully  up  to  the  average  financial 
advance.  But  the  total  amount  of  contributions  - of 
the  Japanese  Christians  represented  by  the  Church  of 
Jesus  Christ,  i.  e.,  Presbyterian,  North  and  South,  the 
Reformed  (Dutch),  the  German  Reformed  and  Irkh 
is  9,911,225  yen  or  Mexican  dollars,  and  the  increase 
this  year  over  the  one  before  is  twelve  per  cent.^ 
the  gain  of  membership  is  thirty- five  per  cent.,  the 
difference  being  accounted  for  in  the  fact  that  Chris- 
tians become  thrifty  by  years  of  Christian  service. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

QUEER  THINGS  IN  JAPAN. 

Every  country  on  earth  has  its  raw  heads  and 
bloody  bones,  its  spectre?,  its  scares  and  hob- 
goblins. Japan  is  not  only  rich  in  these,  but  pos- 
sesses them  in  tropical  abundance.  The  dragon  stands 
at  the  head  of  the  group ; he  is  a genus  with  multi- 
tudes of  varieties  in  a descending  scale.  The  strange 
devices  found  on  Chinese  anl  Japanese  articles,, 
have  perplexed  childhood.  In  Japan  almost  every 
article  of  manufacture  has  some  of  these  forms,  ever 
grotesque  to  foreigners,  which  are  drawn  from  their 
elaborate  system  of  demonology.  They  appear  on 


310 


tombs,  on  gateways,  in  carvings,  in  paintings,  on 
temples,  on  residences,  on  government  seals,  on  money, 
in  pictures  for  the  young,  on  books  of  philosophy, 
systems  and  treatises,  on  pipes,  canes,  musical  instru- 
ments, has-reliefsj  and  bronzes — everywhere  the  dragon 
and  his  many- formed  progeny  are  seen. 

The  typal  form  is  an  alligator  with  wings  and  a 
snout  tipped  with  hair,  and  legs  with  long,  sharp 
claws.  One  of  their  ancient  savants  describes  the 
dragon  as  a superior  order  of  being,  with  horns  like  a 
deer,  a head  like  a horse  and  eyes  like  the  devil,  neck 
like  a snake  and  a belly  like  a red  worm,  paws  like  a 
tiger  and  ears  like  a cow.  This  dragonology  probably 
came  to  Japan  first  from  China;  if  it  was  not  in- 
digenous to  these  countries,  it  must  be  a mixture  of 
superstitions  common  to  the  whole  East. 

The  dragon  has  his  times  and  seasons  for  the 
manifestation  of  his  peculiar  attributes.  In  the  spring 
he  lives  in  heaven ; in  the  autumn  he  sports  in  the 
water ; in  the  summer  he  travels  for  health  and  recre- 
ation, rides  in  the  clouds  and  bathes  in  many-colored 
mists ; and  in  the  winter  he  sleeps.  He  always  dwells 
alone,  and  has  no  social  qualities.  He  is  a great 
miscegenationist  and  allies  himself  to  all  animals.  The 
elephant  is  the  result  of  a cross  with  a sow.  The  horse 
is  the  product  through  the  same  method.  The  youug 
dragon  is  supposed  to  sing;  hence  the  top  of  Japanese 
bells  is  cast  in  his  form.  The  second  class  of  dragons 
delight  in  musical  instruments ; hence  the  harp  and 
suzumi,  a girls’  drum,  are  ornamented  by  his  figure. 
The  third  class  is  addicted  to  drink ; hence  drinking 
cups  have  his  form.  The  fourth  delights  in  adventure 
and  appears  in  dangerous  places ; so  the  gables  and 
cornices  of  roofs,  pagodas  and  temple  beams  are  orna- 


311 


mented  with  his  form,  from  which  conception  the 
hideous  shapes  in  mediaeval  Western  architecture  ap- 
pear in  water  spouts,  in  griffins  and  gargoyles. 

The  next  is  a devotee  to  learning ; he  is  one  of  a 
dragonian  literati^  so  his  likeness  must  embelish  all 
books  and  pictures.  Another  is  an  exterminator,  de- 
lights in  blood  letting,  so  the  instruments  of  war  must 
have  his  image.  Another  is  a spook,”  and  sits  ever 
with  upturned  ear,  and  as  he  uses  his  sitting  capacity 
most,  all  chairs  have  his  form.  Another  loves  to 
bear  down  on  things ; he  is  a weighty  fiend,  and  hence 
the  feet  of  tables  are  turned  in  the  shape  of  dragon’s 
feet. 

He  is  also  the  most  omnipotent  of  animals ; there- 
fore, it  was  the  right  thing  to  clothe  the  emperor  in 
the  symbols  of  this  power.  So  the  royal  garments 
are  called  dragon-robes ; the  Mikado  is  dragon- faced 
and  dragon-bodied.  The  ruffling  of  the  dragon-scales 
indicates  his  displeasure,  while  his  wrath  is  like  that 
of  the  dragon.  Such  universal  impressions  in  the 
Orient,  agreeing  in  many  substantial  particulars,  must 
have  had  some  common  origin,  however  hypothetical 
that  origin  may  be.  It  must  have  come  down  from 
that  geological  period  when  the  climax  of  animal  life 
was  reached,  the  remains  of  which  are  being  dis- 
covered the  world  over. 

In  the  Book  of  Job,  one  of  the  most  philosophical 
and  technical  books  in  the  Bible,  we  have  mention  and 
description  of  such  creatures.  In  the  science  of  pale- 
ontology, we  must  look  for  the  foundations  of  these 
universal  Oriental  beliefs,  which  now  appear  buried 
in  superstitions  but  must  have  had  in  them  some 
residuum  of  fact.  Somebody  has  suggested  the 
geologic  fish — lizard — wandering  in  his  night  excur- 


312 


sions  with  the  flesh  of  fish,  in  a state  of  phosphores- 
cence, between  his  teeth,  lighting  up  his  way  and  in- 
spiring terror  by  seeming  to  breath  fire  through  his 
nostrils. 

' The  kirin  appears  on  the  wood  work  of  the 
tombs  of  the  defunct  Shoguns.  This  creature 
is  the  fruit  of  the  union  of  the  dragon  and  the  cow. 
It  would  be  for  the  curious  to  trace  how  the  likeness 
between  it  and  a military  leader  came  into  the 
popular  mind.  The  form  of  this  conceit  assumes  the 
head  of  a dragon  on  the  body  of  a deer  and  the  legs 
and  feet  of  a horse,  with  tail  and  streaming  hair  or 
wings  peculiar  to  itself.  It  is  also  a unicorn.  It  is 
supposed  to  make  millennial  visits  to  China  and 
Japan,  usually  on  the  occasion  of  the  birth  of  some 
wonderful  man  such  as  Confucius.  It  is  a conserver 
of  all  life,  never  treads  on  the  most  insignificant  in- 
sect, nor  eats  even  growing  grass. 

Another  creature  in  the  likeness  of  pheasant  and 
peacock  appears  on  the  tombs  of  Shoguns  and  the 
paper  currency.  It  is  described  by  Chinese  authority 
as  the  phoenix,  which  is  of  the  essence  of  water,  born 
in  the  Vermillion  cave,  roosts  on  the  most  beautiful 
trees  of  Watung,  and  drinks  of  the  sweetest  springs. 
Its  body  is  adorned  by  fine  colors ; its  voice  has  fine 
notes  ; as  it  walks  it  looks  around ; as  it  flies  all  the 
birds  follow  it.  Virtue,  obedience,  justice,  fidelity 
and  benevolence  are  symbolized  in  the  decorations  of 
its  head,  body  and  breast. 

It  was  a most  satisfying  hope  to  the  political  “ outs’^ 
who  had  to  step  down  at  the  beginning  of  the  present 
administration,  and  to  put  themselves  between  the 
shafts  of  jinrickshaws  for  a living,  to  believe  that  this 
singular  creature  will  come  and  literally  eat  up  all  the 


313 


contemptible  politicians  of  the  present  time.  This 
conceit  corresponds  in  Japan  to  the  passage  “up  salt 
river”  with  us,  as  the  destination  of  the  political  de- 
functs in  every  revolution. 

There  is  a creature  in  popular  belief  which  lives  in 
the  water  to  look  after  bad  boys  who  disobey  their 
mammas  and  go  swimming  too  much.  The  kappa 
nabs  them.  It  has  the  head  of  a monkey  and  the 
claws  of  a tortoise.  It  is  a monkey,  about  the  size 
of  a large  boy,  evolved  out  of  the  green  shell  of  a 
tortoise,  called  suppon^  with  web-footed  claws.  It  is 
believed  by  the  natives  to  be  fond  of  cucumbers. 
Parents  take  advantage  of  this  notion,  and  propitiate 
it  by  an  offering  of  cucumbers  so  that  their  favorite 
sons  may  be  safe. 

The  thunder  arrangements  are  on  the  fashion  of 
terror-raisers ; before  the  temples  are  coUossal  figures 
of  wind  and  thunder.  The  wind  is  represented  as  a 
creature  half  cat,  holding  a kind  of  balloon  containing 
compressed  air  over  her  shoulders.  When  the 
creature  loosens  the  closed  end  of  the  enormous  bag 
the  wind  moves  out  like  a capering  goat,  and  soon 
becomes  gusty  and,  then  mounts  up  into  tornadoes 
and  cyclones  until  it  is  “ bagged”  again.  This  windy 
imp  sometimes  goes  up  on  mountain  sides  and  tops, 
assails  travellers  by  throwing  snow  and  hail  in  their 
faces,  and  sometimes  scratches  them  frightfully  with 
his  claws.  There  are  pictures  of  the  pious  who, 
trusting  in  the  god,  Kuanon,  have  by  prayer  and 
“get-up-ableness”  got  ahead,  just  by  a shadow’s  breadth, 
the  sharper  than  steel  claws  of  Futen,  the  wind  devil. 

The  next  of  these  imps  is  the  thunder  maker,  the 
Jupiter  tonans.  This  name  in  Japan  is  Raiden.  He 
carries  over  his  head  five  drums  joined  together. 


314 


How  he  makes  them  all  thunder  at  once  is  not  quite^ 
clear,  unless  the  Italian  has,  in  his  musical  mul- 
tifariousness, stolen  his  art  from  this  order;  one 
drum  he  might  butt  with  his  head ; two  he  might  strike 
with  his  fists,  and  the  other  two  he  might  work  by  a 
“ kick-up  behind’*  arrangement  which  we  have  ob- 
served in  our  streets  as  quite  practicable. 

The  thunder  imp  is  a combination  of  the  human 
dwarf  and  the  cat — the  latter,  as  usual,  has  its  back 
up.  So  in  popular  language  among  the  Japanese, 
when  the  lightning  strikes,  it  is  a leap  from  the 
thunder  cat.  The  paws  of  this  thunder  cat  are 
believed  to  have  dropped  from  the  clouds.  This  cat 
has  probably  engaged  in  so  many  “ rows”  that  it  had 
lost  its  real  paw,  *and  an  artificial  one  was  substituted. 
This  fell  out  of  the  clouds  and  was  secured  by  some 
of  the  people,  and  is  exhibited  as  a triumphant  refuta- 
tion of  all  modern  scepticism.  The  author  of  that  in- 
teresting and  instructive  book,  “ The  Mikado’s  Em- 
pire,” Rev.  William  Elliott  Griffis,  D D,,  to  whom  we 
are  indebted  for  much  information  about  Japan  other- 
wise unattainable,  gives  an  account  of  a miracle  figure 
in  Asakusa,  in  Tokio. 

“A  noble  in  the  court  of  the  Mikado  is  represented 
with  his  hand  on  the  throat,  and  his  knee  on  the  back 
of  the  thunder  imp,  who  is  sprawling  and  roaring,  on. 
the  ground,  with  his  arms  broken,  and  his  thunder 
turned  into  impotent  grunts.  With  his  heavy  paw 
he  is  trying  to  make  his  conqueror  let  go ; his  eyes- 
are  popping  out,  as  if  about  to  be' discharged  from 
their  sockets;  his  nostrils  dilated,  his  lips  curled, 
showing  his  sharp  teeth,  his  ears  cocked,  his  claws  set. 
His  body,  which  is  about  three  feet  long,  has  no  tail ; 
perhaps  he  was  on  his  way  up  from  the  animal  to  the 


315 


human,  and  according  to  the  development  theory,  had 
shed  that.  This  would  be  no  surprise  in  Japan,  for 
many  cats  are  there  without  even  the  suspicion  of  such 
an  appendage,  while  many  have  not  extended  more 
than  two  inches  from  the  spinal  socket.  The  guide- 
book which  solves,  in  every  locality,  the  mysteries  of 
the  universe  unfolds  to  us  the  secrets  of  the  thunder- 
cat  and  cat-thunder.” 

We  are  not  without  some  experience  of  the  perform- 
ances of  cats  in  the  United  States  of  America,  where, 
if  we  have  not  witnessed  the  attainments  of  their 
celestial  kind  in  thunder-making,  we  have  them  in 
their  semi-infernal  character  in  their  night  concerts. 
The  difference  between  America  and  Japan  is,  no 
doubt,  only  climatic,  so  that  we  are  prepared  to  give  a 
credence  somewhat  reserved  to  the  account  of  Dr. 
Griffis,  which  is  as  follows : 

“In  the  Province  of  Yamato,  in  the  reign  of 
Yarizaku  Tenuo,  when  he  was.  leaving  his  palace,  a 
thunder-storm  of  terrific  violence  arose.  Sugara,  the 
Mikado’s  courtier,  was  ordered  to  catch  this  thunder- 
cat.  He  spurred  his  horse  after  it,  driving  it  to  the 
side  of  Mount  Abe,  where  the  creature,  leaping  high 
into  the  air,  defied  the  attempts  of  his  pursuer.  Sugara, 
gazing  at  the  sky,  cried  ‘obey  the  Emperor!’  but 
the  thunder-cat  went  on.  Then  Sugara,  turning  hia 
face  to  the  temple,  prayed  earnestly  to  Kuanon  and 
cried  ‘dost  thou  not  hear  and  protect  thy  faithful 
ones  when  they  cry  unto  thee  I’  Immediately  a 
splendor  of  radiant  light  shot  out  from  the  temple 
and  the  thunder^  imp  fell  to  the  earth.  Sugara 
seized  him,  quickly  bound  him  and  took  him  to  the 
emperor’s  palace.  Then  ail  men  called  him  the  ‘ god- 
catcher.’  ” 


316 


This  story  may  not  be  true,  but  the  guide-book  says 
it  is.  The  Japanese  have  a species  of  dragon  to  re- 
strain little  boys  from  filling  themselves  with  green 
fmit  and  eating  too  much  candy,  so  that  the  Japanese 
mother  is  not  awakened  from  her  sleep  by  the  cries  of 
pain  in  ‘‘  the  little  bowels’’  of  her  hopefuls.  She  does 
not,  like  her  sister  on  this  side  of  the  ocean,  have  to 
get  up  of  nights  to  rub  the  distended  parts,  or  to 
fill  bags  with  hot  water.  An  ounce  of  prevention,  in 
Japan,  is  thought  to  be  better,  in  such  circumstances, 
than  a pound  of  cure  is  in  America.  She  tells  them  in 
shivering  agony  of  a hideous  imp-worm  that  will  start 
up  out  of  these  excesses  and  eat  them  up,  and  she 
will  show  them  how  he  chews,  and  how  short  a time  it 
will  be  until  they  are  in  his  maw,  “ and  then,”  says 
she,  “ how  will  you  feel  ?” 

Japanese  bacchanals  are  called  shoji — a horrible 
people  living  by  the  sea,  red-headed,  squint  and 
bleared  eyed,  hollow  cheeked,  and  their  mouths  move 
like  the  opening  of  a gate  into  a graveyard.  When 
they  have  a jar  of  “ sake  liquor”  they  dance  in  half 
fiendish  joy  around  it.  A picture  of  these  carousers 
is  put  on  boxes  of  sweetmeats,  cups,  vases  and  jars  of 
lacquered  work,  bronzes,  porcelain,  &c , and  children 
are  taught  to  look  at  the  representation  so  as  to  be 
suitably  affected  thereby  before  they  partake  of  the 
dainties.  The  children  are  scared  oijt  of  their  wits 
when  they  first  see  a red-haired  man.  He  would  not 
be  popular  as  a missionary  in  such  places  of  supersti- 
tion for  a long  time.  They  would  say,  “ Look  at  him  f 
la  he  not  one  of  the  awful  fellows  on  the  boxes  of  our 
sweetmeats  ?”  Of  course,  these  idle  tales  and  fears  are 
now  only  entertained  among  the  superstitious  country 
J^lks.  The  smart  ones  in  Japan  are  like  the  same 


317 


kind  in  New  England,  where  it  is  represented  that  a 
company  of  boys  were  found  shouting  after  a bald- 
headed  man,  “ Go  up,  old  bald  head,  there  are  no 
bears  in  Boston !” 

These  are  only  some  of  the  baser  superstitions,  but 
it  is  not  strange  that  they  exist  in  heathen  minds 
when  we  consider  the  violent  and  terrorizing  physical 
changes  in  Japan.  The  country  ^ does  not  seem  to 
have  any  foundations.  Its  islands  appear  to  swim  in 
inland  seas  It  is  a country  of  fl)ating  islands.  It 
is  also  a country  of  land  slides.  Even  the  hair  often 
slides  down  the  crowns  of  men’s  heads,  and  disappears 
altogether,  or  at  least  lodges  on  their  chins.  A man 
is  not  secure  in  ihe  possession  of  his  lanjd  by  title,  as 
another  man’s  farm  may  slide  down  in  a night  on  top 
of  it.  Earthquakes  average  over  two  a month,  and 
one  hundred  have  occurred  in  one  revolution  of  the 
moon.  Towns  and  villages  are  engulfed  and  cities 
shaken  into  ruins.  The  ocean  likewise  is  a constant 
menace,  not  only  because  its  winds  wreck  the  frail 
crafts  of  the  poor,  but  because  their  great  ships  go 
down  under  its  heartless  surface.  Besides,  there  are 
tidal  waves  destroying  all  before  them.  The  country 
is  beautiful,  but  it  has  in  its  surroundings  and  in  its 
formations  elements  and  marks  of  the  direful  contests 
of  the  past,  produced  by  earthquakes  and  volcanic  up- 
heavals. It  is  a land  of  beauty  and  grandeur,  but 
these  have  been  the  result  of  disasters  which  have 
been  educators,  impressing  the  terrible  on  the  minds 
of  the  people,  who  have  had  no  sunshiny  religion  to 
mantle  these  catastrophes  with  divine  benignancy. 
Accordingly  the  Japanese  have  filled  the  places  of 
terror  and  solitude  with  their  own  dread  fancies. 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 


TFB-AT  THE  CHILDREN  DO  IN  JAPAN. 
NATION  may  be  known  by  its  cbildbood  as  well 


as  by  its  great  men.  Adults  are  but  grown-up 
children,  who  have  changed  their  costume  and  play- 
things. The  Chinese  are  a serious  people,  who  despise 
sports,  and  maintain  that  they  are  a waste  of  time. 
The  Japanese  are  at  the  other  extreme — a people 
who  respond  to  every  thing  that  can  win  a smile  from 
a child.  In  their  home  life  they  come  nearer  to  their 
children  by  being  interested  in  their  sports  than  any 
other  nationality. 

The  life  of  Japan  can  be  interpreted  in  the  light  of 
its  toy-shops.  It  con^ins  a playful  people,  but  since 
it  has  given  its  mind  to  foreign  studies  and  associa- 
tions is  becoming  more  thoughtful  in  its  amusements, 
and  does  not  have  nearly  so  many  of  them,  nor  do 
they  make  up  so  much  of  the  programme  of  life.  It 
is  the  paradise  of  toy-makers,  so  much  so  that  its  great 
cities  look  to  the  foreign  Christian  as  if  Christmas  were 
celebrated  every  day  in  the  year.  It  is  the  country 
of  the  most  gorgeous  displays  of  nothings — for  these 
toys  cost,  in  our  estimation,  nothing.  Many  house- 
holds in  our  own  country  purchase  at  Christmas-time 
as  much  as  would  buy  the  whole  stock  of  a bazar  in 
Japan.  And  what  is  stranger  than  all,  worship  and 
sports  are  as  inseparable  to  the  mind  of  a Japanese  as 
are  the  Fourth  of  July  and  fire-crackers  to  the  aver- 
age American. 

At  no  temple  in  Japan  can  be  seen  the  sign  of  a 
coffin  nailed  to  the  corner,  nor  does  the  name  of  an 


318 


319 


undertaker  ever  appear  there.  They  associate  the 
temple  only  with  life,  and  whatever  will  make  life 
cheerful.  Hence  the  approaches  to  these  temples  are 
crowded  with  every  fashion  and  form  wMch  will  min- 
ister to  epjoyment  when  the  temple  service  is  over. 
They  are  a people  who  associate  their  religious 
thoughts  and  observances  with  holidays.  Like  Spain 
and  Italy  they  are  cursed  by  means  of  them  with  a 
self-imposed  idleness  which  tendeth  only  to  poverty. 
A festival  in  full  glory  is  a sight  which  any  foreigner 
might  desire  in  order  to  obtain  a better  understanding 
of  the  Japanese  character.  These  can  often  be  seen  in 
visits  to  their  temples,  Asakusa,  Kanda,  Mojin  or  one 
of  the  Inari  shrines  in  Tokio. 

The  street  theatrical  is  an  institution  whose  begin- 
nings date  beyond  history.  The  acting  is  said,  by 
those  who  know,  often  to  possess  real  merit.  It 
is  usually  done  by  trained  boys.  The  showman^s  box 
is  itself  a curiosity,  adorned  on  the  outside  with  pic- 
tures of  famous  actors,  nine-tailed  foxes,  various 
shaped  and  many  colored  devils,  and  scenes  of  blood- 
curdling horror  which  never  fail  to  delight  the  ordi- 
nary Japanese.  There  are  here,  as  usual  in  the  East, 
female  dancers,  who  are  the  lowest  of  the  low,  story- 
tellers and  coarse  jesters  and  jibers — for  in  jibes  tho 
Japanese  can  outdo  the  world.  There  are  magicians 
and  song  singers  always  on  the  streets,  from  morning 
till  late  at  night.  There  are  candy- shops  and  stalls 
and  peddlers,  with  their  sweets  of  every  kind  and  gro- 
tesque in  shape.  Among  them  is  the  American  in 
caricature,  with  his  bearded  face  and  coarse  features, 
as  they  really  seem  when  contras- ed  with  these  little 
and  symmetrical  people. 

The  lottery  passion  pervades  nearly  all  classes 


320 


— cWldren  learn  it  from  their  very  sweet-meats. 
Sometimes  the  machine  is  a disk  with  a spear-shaped 
hand  which  is  whirled  around  by  the  child  on  a dial, 
the  result  being  made  known  by  where  it  stops.  Some- 
times it  is  stopped  by  pulling  a string  attached  to  an 
article  hidden  from  sight.  There  are  fire  eaters,  who 
raise  the  wonder  of  the  little  folks,  by  rolling  balls  of 
camphor  paste,  glowing  with  lambent  fire,  over  their 
arms  and  sucking  the  flame  into  their  mouths.  Then 
there  is  the  flea  man,  with  his  tiny  carts  and  wheels 
propelled  by  this  almost  imperceptible  force,  and  beetles 
with  paper  carts  fastened  by  invisible  paste,  a tandem 
of  a dozen  in  line.  Then  instead  of  the  mud  pies, 
which  American  children  delight  to  make,  the  Japan- 
ese youngster  works  more  to  his  personal  advantage. 
Men  and  women  go  up  and  down  the  streets  carrying 
miniature  charcoal  furnaces  and  a dish  of  batter,  with 
spoons  and  dishes,  and  for  a cent  apiece  the  young- 
sters can  bake  griddle-cakes  for  hours  and  fill  them- 
selves with  the  products  of  their  own  labor. 

There  also  almost  every  kind  of  game  suited  to 
young  and  old  may  be  seen.  Young  girls,  dressed 
in  fantastic  colors  with  powdered  faces  and  painted 
lips,  play  battledore  and  shuttlecock.  The  shuttlecock 
is  a gilded  seed  in  which  feathers  are  stuck  like  the 
petals  of  a flower.  This  game  gives  opportunity  to 
show  agility,  grace  and  accomplishments.  The  hind- 
most in  the  game  carries  the  stigma  of  an  ink 
circle  around  the  eyes.  There  are  games  of  cards  for 
the  house  in  bad  weather  or  for  guests  who  do  not 
care  to  be  out  of  doors  all  the  time.  One  of  these 
consists  of  a large  card-board  laid  upon  the  floor  on 
which  are  the  names  and  pictures  of  fifty-three  mail 
stations  on  the  way  from  Tokio  to  Kioto.  At  the 


321 


Kioto  station  are  put  up  a few  coins  or  a pile  of 
sweetmeats,  while  the  game  is  played  with  dice. 
Each  throw  brings  the  player,  rearer  the  goal,  and  to 
the  one  gaining  it  first  the  prizes  at  the  end  are  given. 
They  played  “ the  game  of  authors”  ages  ago,  and 
sometimes  as  a means  of  acquiring  a knowledge 
of  the  writings  of  Chinese  authors,  which,  under  the 
old  regime,  was  a great  attainment  for  students  of 
Chinese  literature. 

The  game  of  proverbs  is  a favorite  with  the  more 
advanced  in  age.  There  are  small  cards  containing 
the  proverb,  with  a picture  illustrating  it  on  the  oppo- 
site side,  each  proverb  beginning  with  one  of  the  fifty 
Japanese  letters.  The  children  range  themselves  in  a 
circle  and  the  cards  are  shuffied  and  dpalt.  One 
reads  the  proverb  and  the  player,  who  has  the  picture 
corresponding  to  the  sentiment,  announces  it,  and  the 
match  is  made,  and  those  who  thus  dispose  of  their 
cards  first  are  the  winners  of  the  game.  Mischief  be- 
falls the  hindmost ; if  a boy,  he  has  his  eyes  bla<’ked, 
and  if  a girl,  she  has  a wisp  of  straw  stuck  in  her 
hair. 

Another  game  is  educational.  It  consists  of  geom- 
etrical puzzles.  Certain  possible  shapes  are  put  on 
paper  as  models,  and  the  boys  are  expected  to  pro- 
duce them  in  wood,  which  ofcen  requires  thought  and 
mechanical  ingenuity.  There  is  also  the  ring  puzzle, 
made  of  rings  of  bamboo  or  iron  on  a bar.  This 
requires  aptitude  for  mathematics  or  the  capacity  that 
distinguishes  size  and  form.  Checkers  have  a popu- 
lar place  in  the  household,  and  the  number  used  is 
three  hundred  and  sixty.  Chess  and  backgammon 
are  used  more  or  less. 

But  the  Japanese,  like  the  Frenchman,  loves  that 


322 


house  best  which  is  not  made  with  hands,  whose  jeweled 
dome  always  welcomes  him  without  money  and  with- 
out price ; so  the  most  of  his  enjoyments  are  found  out 
of  doors  and  his  sports  are  suited  to  these  conditions. 
It  has  from  time  immemorial  been  a custom  of  the 
younger  people  to  assemble  during  moonlight  nights 
in  the  open  place  about  the  castle  gates,  and  dance, 
what  would  be  called  in  America  a humdrum,  an  easy 
swing  in  circles  accompanied  by  clapping  of  hands. 
It  goes  on  all  night.  It  is  a pity  that  some  enterpris- 
ing American  had  not  taught  them  that  song  of  festive 
youth,  “We  won’t  go  home  till  morning,  till  daylight 
doth  appear,”  for  this  would  be  both  song  and  fact. 

Kite  flying  is  a national  sport,  confined,  however, 
to  youth  and  childhood.  It  is  their  delight  when 
there  are  stiff  and  steady  winds,  which  blow  in 
February  and  March.  These  kites  are  so  numer- 
ous in  our  country  that  they  need  no  description 
as  to  shapes,  which  are  usually  those  of  animals  and 
of  heroes,  but  they  are  larger  than  any  specimens  we 
have  seen  at  home,  being  sometimes  six  feet  square, 
with  a thin  piece  of  whalebone,  which,  vibrating  with 
the  motion  of  the  kite  in  the  wind,  makes  a loud,  start- 
ling sound,  very  much  like  the  scream  of  the  dia- 
charged  missile  from  the  gun  used  in  our  late  conflict 
known  as  the  “ swamp  angel.”  There  is  war  among 
these  kites  at  times.  The  rivals  are  pitted  against 
each  other,  the  object  being  to  destroy  one  or  the  other. 
To  do  this  the  strings  are  covered  twenty  to  thirty 
feet  from  the  kites  with  glue,  which,  while  it  is  still 
soft  is  covered  with  powdered  glass,  and  the  fragments 
become  as  blades  all  along  the  strings  and  cut  what- 
ever  they  come  in  contact  with.  The  kites  are 
fought  by  this  means,  cutting  the  strings  oi  the  rival 


323 


by  sawing  them  asunder,  when  the  [injured  kite 
bounds  away  or  falls,  to  be  taken  by  its  destroyer. 

Whenever  and  wherever  there  is  snow  the  boys  use 
sleds,  and  coasting  is  as  natural  as  life.  They  build 
forts  and  play  soldier,  and  pelt  each  other  with  snow- 
balls as  in  other  lands;  they  build  temples,  make 
images  of  human  beings,  and  sometimes  of  European 
and  American  foreigners,  and  then  pelt  them  down  to 
express  the  national  sentiment,  and  the  wish  for  the 
time  when  they  can  thus  exterminate  all  foreigners. 

The  Japanese  are  a wonderfully  imitative  people. 
Whatever  is  seen  in  the  realm  of  man  and  nature  they 
reproduce.  The  children  play  doctor,  put  on  his 
grave  manner,  wear  his  big  glasses,  the  mark  of  the 
profession  in  China  and  to  some  extent  in  Japan. 
They  play  missionary  and  school  teacher,  native  and 
foreign. 

The  fearful  is  not  lost  sight  of  as  a necessary  part 
of  their  education ; ghost  stories  and  hair-breadth 
escapes  are  related.  Tn  a dark  room  is  a dish  of  oil 
with  a lighted  wick  laid  in  it,  so  that  it  becomes  a 
centre  of  dismal  and  moving  shadows.  After  an  awful 
narrative  is  told,  a boy  must  go  into  the  distant  room 
where  the  lamp  is  and  come  back  ; and  then  another 
ghost  story  is  told,  and  another  boy  must  go.  Each 
must  remove  a strand  from  the  hur.dred  stif'and  wick 
until  the  imagination  of  the  crowd  is  intensely  excited, 
when  the  last  boy  sees  Satan  himself,  and  is  wild  with 
terror. 

There  are  entertainments  to  make  the  beys  brave 
and  patriotic,  and  to  inspire  them  with  the  war  spirit 
for  the  defence  of  home  and  country.  The  old  men 
describe  the  battles  scenes  and  tell  of  the  carnage  on 
their  seas,  lakes,  valleys  and  mountains,  when  the 


324 


seas  and  snows  were  red  with  the  bbod  of  brave 
noen.  They  narrate  examples  of  single  handed  valor, 
where  one  slew  many  foes — the  victories  of  their  great 
leaders,  Asamutu,  Shoguns  and  Mikadoes,  and  boast 
how  Japanese  valor  can  witlistani  the  world,  until  the 
boys  pant  for  conflict  and  long  to  make  their  swords 
red  with  carnage. 

The  feast  of  dolls  is  a great  occasion  to  the  female 
portion  of  the  family.  Before  the  Matsuri  the  shops 
are  filled  with  gay  images,  and  it  is  the  right  thing 
for  a family  to  have  a supply  of  them  gaily  dressed. 
These  vary  in  length  from  four  inches  to  a foot,  and 
in  some  families  many  of  them  are  the  accumulation 
of  ages.  When  a daughter  arrives  from  the  other 
world  by  birth,  a pair  of  these  images  are  provided  for 
her,  and  with  them  she  entertains  herself  until  she 
gets  old  enough  to  want  something  better  suited  to 
maturity.  When  she  is  married,  her  images  are  con- 
sidered a part  of  her  effects,  which  she  takes  to  her 
husband’s  house,  waiting  for  coming  events,  and  when 
they  do  come,  and  are  of  “the  female  persuasion,”  she 
gives  them  to  her  daughter,  thus  increasing  her  stock 
to  meet  the  requirements  of  the  Hini  Maturi,  or  doll 
day,  which  is  the  thir(f  day  of  the  third  month,  and 
is  girl  day.  These  images,  made  of  wood  or  pottery, 
represent  the  Mikado  and  his  wife,  the  Kioto  nobles, 
their  wives  and  daughters,  and  other  personages,  real 
and  mythological,  together  with  toy  miniatures  of  the 
table,  and  the  chamber  service,  the  utensils  of  the 
kitchen  and  travelling  apparatus.  Some  being  ex- 
quisite in  pattern  and  costly,  are  exhibited  and  played 
with,  and  delighted  in,  on  that  day.  The  girls  pre- 
sent offerings  of  saki  (the  native  beverage)  and  rice  to 
the  toy  pictures  of  the  Mikado  and  his  wife.  After 


325 


this  is  done,  the  day  is  spent  in  continuous  mimicry 
of  every  thing  in  female  childhood,  or  of  maiden  and 
maternal  life.  i 

This  is  only  a very  partial  and  imperfect  exhibition 
of  Japan,  as  seen  in  its  childlife,  but  it  will  give  those 
interested  in  it  some  idea  of  the  youthful  pastimes  of 
this  remarkable  people,  and  a pleasing  glimpse  of 
home  life  where  Christ  has  not  entered  and  changed 
all  joys  into  his  likeness.  The  women  of  Japan  are, 
so  far  as  we  could  observe,  better  cared  for  than  in 
other  heathen  countries,  where  the  relations  of  husband 
and  wife  are  at  all  faithful  and  confidential.  The  wife 
is  seen  everywhere  with  her  baby  fastened  to  her 
back,  just  above  the  hips ; the  baby  is  an  appendage, 
riding  at  whatever  sf»eed  the  mother  makes;  some- 
times it  is  squalling  and  clawing  at  her  back  hair, 
and  sometimes  venting  its  puny  rage  by  slapping  her 
head  or  kicking,  as  temper  and  inclination  suit.  The 
mother  does  not  pay  much  attention  to  it  if  she  is 
absorbed  in  sight  seeing.  It  seemed  to  our  limited 
observation  that,  compared  with  motherhood  in  like 
conditions  in  our  country,  she  is,  to  a considerable 
extent,  “ a gadabout” 


FINIS. 


.r- 


/ 


l:T' 
, \ 


V; 


• Hk 
■ ■ - . ■(' 


-r 


»■- 


i. 


S; 


;r: 

t'  . • • s.' 
Cv. :. , 


/ 


''y<\ 


V. 

f 


yt'^A  . 


■] 


c 


■V  ^ . 


s 


'■X 


f 


■’ k 

■ ■ J . V ’ 

.1 


Date  Due 

g) 

PRINTED 

IN  U.  S.  A. 

